April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout
 

It’s 2:30 am, and I’m jetlagged beyond belief, so figured this is as good a time as any to start my trip report on Switzerland.

WARNING: I’m one of those annoying detailed types. I don’t wax poetic about food and cow bells, but I do tend to provide details others might find irritating. I’ll try to control myself.

The travelers:

Bill and Mel, a couple of semi-old fahrt American expatriates currently living in Perth, Australia. We love Switzerland, and have visited several times, the last of which was in 2004 when we lived in Indonesia. At that point we decided the time and energy needed to get to Europe from our remote location was just too daunting, so we shelved future trips to Switzerland…until now.

Our grand plan this time was to combine a visit to Switzerland and the United States over a six week period; a trip that included a vacation, a home leave and a few weeks of business.

So back in December we began plotting our course, and decided to book RTW tickets on Star Alliance partners. Unwilling to fly a gazillion miles crammed into cattle class, we bit the bullet and purchased Business Class tickets. Ouch.

Our routing:

PER-SIN
SIN-FRA
FRA-ZRH
ZRH-LAX
LAX-LAS
LAS-PHX
PHX-COS
COS-DEN
DEN-LAX
LAX-AKL
AKL-PER

We’d exhaustively researched which routes, airlines and flights offered the most bang for our buck in those coveted Business Class seats. We’d hoped to take Singapore Airlines as much as possible, but as they apply a $500 per ticket surcharge on their SIN-ZRH flights and a $900 per ticket surcharge on their LAX-SIN flights, we thought better of it.

Our Swiss Itinerary:

Kandersteg – three nights
Zermatt – four nights
Lauterbrunnen – seven nights
Zurich – one night

We’re low season, cold weather travelers, so April seemed like the perfect time to visit Switzerland. It also coincided with Good Friday and Easter Monday, two holidays here in Australia, giving us two more vacation days to work with.

April 10, 2009: The trip begins…..

We’d arranged a private transfer to the Perth airport though a limo service, the best option we found after much research. We were collected at 5 am, at the airport by 5:30 and sipping chai lattes in the Singapore Air Lounge by 6 am. The Perth airport enforces a 14 kg carry on limit for Business Class, less for Economy. Bags are weighed as you enter Immigration.

We’d booked two aisle seats, but were talked into accepting two seats in the middle section with the promise that the middle seat would be blocked off (it was). Only 18 of the 30 Business Class seats were full, so that world class SIA service was even more attentive than usual. It was a good flight; short and sweet at 4.5 hours, good service, huge screens for movie viewing, edible food, etc.

The later flight we’d originally wanted to take was booked, so we had to cool our heels in Changi Airport for 10 hours before our connecting flight to Frankfurt. But if you’ve got to spend 10 hours in an airport, Changi is the place to do it.

We arrived in Terminal 2 and immediately went to the Silver Kris Lounge for a snack before checking into the Transit Hotel, where we’d booked a room for the next eight hours (S$107). We were re-directed to the Transit Hotel in Terminal 3, as renovations were in progress and we were told it might be noisy. We’ve been through Changi countless times, but I’ve never seen it so empty. We took a nap, poked around the airport, went back to the lounge for a snack and to use the Internet, then back to the room to shower, then back to the lounge to await our 23:10 flight.

Our 12+ hour SIA flight to Frankfurt was on the upper deck of a 747. It was a good flight, despite three solid hours of bone jarring turbulence. I’d requested vegetarian meals on all our flights and I was already beginning to regret it. The two Asian Vegetarian meals on SIA were good, but I was rapidly tiring of carbs; naan, dahl, rice, saag paneer, naan, potato dosa, more naan. The flight attendants were efficient to the point of annoyance, taking our food and drinks away before we’d finished.

The Silver Kris Sling and carb overload eventually kicked in and we both managed to get about 4-5 hours of sleep. The seats were comfortable; I felt as if I were in a cocoon. When the seat was fully reclined I slid downwards, but I found a comfortable sleeping position by lowering the seat and raising the knee support a bit. The entertainment system was extensive and the screens were huge.

We arrived in Frankfurt (C gates) around 6:30 am, and were greeted with 50 degree temps, a welcome change after a long hot Perth summer. We went through passport control and back through security to reach the A gates for our connecting Lufthansa flight to Zurich. I have a love-hate relationship with the Frankfurt Airport. I hate the industrial, rabbit warren feel of the place, but I love the duty free shopping (chocolate!).

We had a few hours to kill before our connecting flight, so we spent it in the Senator’s Lounge trying to revive ourselves with caffeine, cheese and bread. It seemed as if we’d been eating non stop since we left Perth; at this rate I’d explode before we reached our destination.

The Senator’s lounge was busy and there was no shortage of alcohol. Beer on tap, vodka on ice, spirits galore. Tempting, but a wee bit early for me.

Our flight to Zurich was on an Airbus 321, in what Bill refers to as ‘fake business class’; three seats on each side with the middle seat blocked off and used as a drink and food tray. It was only a 45 minute flight, but they still managed to serve a light breakfast.

April 11, 9:30 am, finally, we’d arrived in Switzerland.

Next up: Working off some calories in Kandersteg

Wow! You fly around the world and your trip report is on Switzerland. I'm impressed!!! Can't wait to read on. . .

Ditto on the impressed!

And 15 nights in Switzerland -- what a dream!!

Looking forward to following your journey.

enzian and swisshiker -

Appreciate the encouragement. I'll try not to put you to sleep.

Upon our arrival in Zurich, we sought out the attended left luggage area, where we dropped off one of our suitcases. We had no interest in dragging around any more luggage than necessary and we had no need for the business clothes, summer clothes and gifts from Australia we’d brought with us for later in the trip. We purchased a Half Fare Card (99 CHF each) and two one way train tickets to Kandersteg (35.50 CHF each). We also picked up provisions at the Migros grocery store in the airport, as it was the Saturday before Easter and we weren’t sure what the food situation would be like in Kandersteg.

Our journey led us through Bern and Spiez (two train changes), arriving at the door of our apartment some 32 hours after leaving Perth. Whew!

On previous visits we’d discovered that an expensive Switzerland could be made more affordable by staying in apartments or in hotels that offer rooms without service or breakfast during the low season. With that in mind, I’d booked three nights in an apartment at Hotel Adler.

http://www.chalethotel.ch/wohnen/wohnE.html

For 306.50 CHF (70 CHF per night x 3, 80 CHF cleaning fee, 16.50 CHF visitor’s tax), we had ourselves a nice little flat with a balcony overlooking the River Kander.

Our apartment (#279) was located on the second floor of a separate building directly behind the hotel. It consisted of one bedroom, a living area with chair and loveseat, a small dining area, bathroom with shower over the tub, and a kitchen with a small fridge, microwave, tiny dishwasher, and two element stove top. It had everything we needed except decent reading lights; every light in the place was pitiful. Details, details…

After getting settled, we scouted out the path to the Luftseilbahn Sunnbuel, where we planned to hike the following day. We returned to town via the track along the River Kander.

http://www.sunnbuel.ch/

It seemed as if the entire town was outdoors on this beautiful day, enjoying alfresco drinks at cafes, walking along the river, biking through town, etc. After a nice long walk to shake off the travel fatigue, we returned to our temporary home to soak up the fantastic scenery from the comfort of our balcony.

Next up: Tromping through the slush

I, for one, happen to love your details! Looking forward to reading more...

Yes... keep it coming! I left Zurich for home (USA) on April 8, so I'm missing Switzerland right now. Your report is most welcome.

Well, thank you Meredith and simpsonc510. I'm actually beginning to feel human again after an almost full night's sleep, so I'll try to write some more today.

I still have hundreds of photos to sort through. I'll post some as I go along.

This is great! I've stayed at the Adler in the hotel part; it is good to know that apartment has a balcony too. Too bad about the lighting, though.

Di you happen to check out the Ricola herb garden on your walk to the Sunnbuel lift?

Well, I will try to hide my (selfish) disappointment in finding no further entries today. And here I was all ready to pretend I was there this evening...sigh...

enzian, did you happen to see the Ricola herb garden when you were in Zermatt? It's on the walk down from Furi into the village. Lots of explanations as to what the various herbs are used for.

A note regarding closures and budgeting:

As off season travelers, we fully expect closures. I’d e-mailed the respective tourist offices to determine what would be open in April and then planned our itinerary accordingly. I learned that Kandersteg would be practically shut down, but a few apartments could be had for less than a week at good rates.

I also learned that April was still high season in Zermatt, where hotel rates remain stupidly expensive until well after Easter, and renting an apartment for less than a week was virtually impossible until May. Through sheer perseverance I located a hotel in Zermatt that offered low season rates immediately following Easter.

I also discovered that apartment rates in Lauterbrunnen dropped significantly the week following Easter, as many hotels and restaurants close until early summer.

April 12, 2009: Easter Sunday, the vacation is truly underway…

We must have been tired, because we slept for 12 hours! It was impossibly quiet; we didn’t hear anything until the church bells came to life at 7 am.

My research indicated that the Sunnbuel cable car would be operating until April 19, but we checked with hotel staff to ensure that included Easter Sunday, before we set out to the cable station (30 minutes). I knew there was a winter hiking trail which began at the top of the Sunnbuel cable station, and I’d read references to Gemmi Pass, but beyond that I was clueless. Before purchasing tickets, we tried to ascertain if this was a one way loop or if we needed return tickets. Our non-existent German and the spotty English of the cable station employee led us to believe we needed to buy return tickets, so we did – 14.50 CHF each - later discovering this wasn’t the case.

As it turns out, this walk is known as the Old Gemmi Trail, the historic trade route over the Gemmi Pass. It’s a popular high altitude trail that begins in the Bernese Oberland at Sunnebuel (above Kandersteg) and continues on to Gemmi Pass, (above Leukerbad) in the canton Valais. Apparently, there’s another hotel owned cable car that runs from Gemmi Pass to Leukerbad. The trail can be walked in either direction, and it’s groomed during the winter for hiking and snowshoeing.

http://www.kandersteg.ch/english/sport/w_gemmi.html

http://www.gemmi.ch/e/gemmibahn.html

From Sunnbuel we walked the path to the 250 year old Berghotel Schwarenbach, which is approximately half way to Gemmi Pass. This would no doubt be an easy walk in the summer months, but this day it was difficult thanks to the slushy snow. We felt as if we were walking in sand which was constantly shifting underfoot. Snowshoes would have really come in handy.

This was indeed a popular trail with many folks out enjoying the day, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, and hiking.

We took a much needed rest at the Berghotel Schwarenbach, where we had an alfresco lunch on their patio. The waitress was taking orders in German and French, but quickly switched to English when we asked if she spoke it. It never ceases to amaze me how the Swiss can change languages almost mid sentence. Sure wish I could do that. We didn’t even ask for a menu, we just ordered soup, a beer and a hot chocolate. We were presented with a beautiful bowl of steaming hot cream of vegetable soup with sausages and brown bread (41.80 CHF). It was divine, all the more so because it was lapped up amidst the Valais Alps. Hummm…perhaps I do wax poetic just a tad.

http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offe...uts-46732.html

Stomachs and eyeballs sated, we returned the way we had come, trudging through snow that had become even slushier and more difficult to walk on as the day had warmed. We were cold, then hot, then cold again. We kept putting on clothes just to peel them off. We used every piece of clothing we had in our backpacks at some point on this walk; Gortex jackets, fleece jackets, fleece hats and gloves, sunhats. The only thing we forgot was sunscreen, which we’d much regret the following day. (Total walking time 4.5 hours, 7.5 miles return from apartment. We later learned that another 1:10 would have gotten us to Gemmi Pass). We were pooped and our shoes and socks were soaking wet. We felt every one of our years.

We saw and heard several rock slides as we walked back to the apartment. There was a band playing near the church in Kandersteg and kids were passing an old trombone for donations. It was an idyllic setting, and at that moment, I realized this little village had stolen my heart.

Our fears of everything being closed on Easter were unfounded. There were plenty of restaurants open for business, as were the bakery and a small grocery store.

Next up: Sore muscles, burnt skin and a fabulous Wanderweg

Ricola herb garden? Apparently we missed both of them (we've walked from Furi to Zermatt on previous trips). Perhaps it was too early in the season, or maybe we didn't realize what we were looking at...

April 13, 2009: A truly gorgeous Easter Monday…

We woke to a beautiful sunny day, sore muscles and very red faces. We know better than to hike without sunscreen, heck, we’re from Colorado and all too familiar with sun and snow burn - but we all have the occasional brain fahrt (okay, I'll stop now). Lanolin and ibuprofen to the rescue…

I strolled through town while Bill took advantage of the morning light to finish a book. It was a good opportunity for me to sneak into the small grocery store across from the Adler and ogle the chocolate aisle. Okay, so maybe I did a bit more than ogle…

We knew the chairlift to the Oeschinensee (Oeschinen Lake) wasn’t operating, but closures don’t slow us down much, so we walked up instead. The lake is located east of Kandersteg in the Oeschinen valley, at an elevation of 5,180 feet.

The path was partly hiking trail, road and ski run, and it was a bit on the steep side, but it was a very pretty walk. We encountered snow, mud and a creek or two. It took us 90 minutes to reach the closed Oeschinensee Hotel, where we trudged through thigh deep snow to access a bench overlooking the lake for a picnic lunch. It was stunning.

http://www.oeschinensee.ch/content/sommer_en/13/143/

After lunch we continued walking along a wooded path above the lake and past an assortment of wood sculptures to the waterfall. There was loads of snow and it was incredibly peaceful. We then backtracked and detoured to the Sesselbahn (chairlift), planning to walk down from there for a different return to Kandersteg. Instead of a path, we found a steep drop off under the chairlift, so we walked back towards the lake and returned the way we had come.

It was a beautiful day, a great walk with eye popping views of the surrounding peaks and scattered spring flowers poking their heads through the snow. We enjoyed this walk immensely (total walking time 4.25 hours, just under 7.5 miles).

That evening we dined in the Adler Hotel Restaurant – Four season pizza for Bill (18 CHF) and a huge serving of Rosti with mountain cheese for me (19 CHF). Bill enjoyed his pizza, but I found the Rosti really bland – it was basically a huge mound of fried hash browns with a few slices of cheese on top. I love Rosti, but this rendition was sadly lacking. The American in me yearned for some Heinz to jazz it up, but I couldn’t bring myself to ask for any.

Next up: Goodbye Kandersteg, hello Zermatt…

April 14, 2009: Trains, tunnels and waterfalls…

As we woke to yet another pretty day, I couldn’t help but feel a tiny bit smug – here we were having spectacular weather at a time of year few tourists would consider visiting. That smugness would all but vanish when we got to Zermatt; read on.

We left our apartment and caught the 10:42 am train to Zermatt via Brig (27 CHF each). We left Kandersteg via the 15 km Lotschberg Tunnel, which ends at Goppenstein in the canton of Valais.

As we zipped along the rails in a high tech train complete with video screens indicating stops, I was once again awed at how the Swiss have managed to build villages on the most precarious looking mountain tops and ledges. We passed through another series of tunnels high above the valley and gradually descended upon Brig, which was much bigger than I remembered.

It was a bit of a walk to get from platform 7 to platform 14 to catch our connecting train, but we had plenty of time – so much so that we thought we’d gotten on a train that wasn’t actually leaving. We were now on the older, low tech Matterhorn-Gotthard Bahn and as we chugged our way towards Zermatt, we gazed at the waterfalls and sheer mountain cliffs, which gradually gave way to bare vineyards terraced on the mountainsides. Suddenly those imposing snow covered Alps were directly in front of us as we approached the village of Embd (a place I’d like to explore someday).

We continued our climb and snow began to appear at ground level; no budding trees up here, but those hardy wildflowers were doing their best to break free of the snow.

We passed the site of the two consecutive 1991 rockslides near Randa and a shiver went up my spine as I recalled those rock falls we heard during our stay in Kandersteg.

Before we knew it, we were in snow free Zermatt, schlepping our bags through town towards our hotel, Bill fussing at me for not bothering with a luggage cart. We eventually found Hotel Antika, a stone’s throw from the church and directly across the street from the cemetery. We were given room #105, a well equipped, spacious comfortable room with a balcony overlooking the river and sublime Matterhorn view. Our room was much nicer than I had expected, and we were both pleased to find it had good bedside reading lights, bright lighting in the bathroom and a magnifying mirror, although I had to stand on my tiptoes to use it. The only thing our room lacked was a fridge, but the balcony worked in a pinch. Friendly proprietor, free internet access in the lobby, wellness center and oddly enough, a sign in the elevator asking that guests not shower before 7 am or after 10 pm; yes, this would do nicely (175 CHF per night, including breakfast).

http://www.antika.ch/

After sleepy Kandersteg, Zermatt was a complete and utter shock. Not exactly high season, but entirely too busy for the likes of us. We don’t normally make reservations for meals, but decided to play it safe and booked a table for dinner at an old favorite, The Spaghetti Factory in the Post Hotel.

While Bill gave into the cold that had been plaguing him the entire trip, I wandered through the cemetery which was brimming with candles and flowers following Easter services, and took a long walk through the village. The après ski scene was alive and well. Global recession my arse.

Our dinner of four cheese pizza with garlic was very good, but it was entirely too much food, we could have easily shared. Dinner for two with one glass of wine – 55 CHF. Welcome to Zermatt…

Next up: A close call on the sledge run

Hi Mel,

Welcome home, we finally had some rain last week!! Enjoying your report and wishing I was in Switzerland.

Hey Maudie -

Loving this cooler weather, but not liking the short days so much.

Ahhh, mercy! mercy! This is just painful.

The landscapes, the walks, the food, the cosy hotels . . stop, please! You're killing me!!!

((But thanks for the vicarious trip. I do SO appreciate it!))

s

LOL swandav - happy to oblige.

Salü Melnq8: Bravo!

Photos now up for the sections covered to date -

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html

I have always been a huge proponent of recommending Zermatt to my friends. From my first visit there oh-so-many years ago, it has always welcomed me as a long-lost resident.

However, I must admit that the continued construction has -- well, not ruined it, but in a way, it just seems like you say, entirely too busy. There are cranes everywhere, buildings going waaay up into the hills, and the tourists in summer..

I long for the way it was, but I suppose that's progress. I will continue to return, looking for the less-traveled hikes, away from the throngs.

This is such an enjoyable read, Melinq8. Now, off to view your photos!

I agree with you wholeheartedly swisshiker. My husband is much more of a Zermatt fan than I am, but he referred to it as 'zooish' more than once on this trip, so perhaps I can talk him into skipping it next time! I like it just fine in the off-off season (November, early Decemember, early May), but otherwise...

I feel about Kona, HI the way you feel about Zermatt...I long for the way it used to be. I knew it way back when, and well, I liked it much better then.

bookmarking!

Hi again guys,

You know, an old poster on this board used to call Zermatt the "Manhattan of the mountains" because of all that construction. I must admit that I only visited once, and that was enough for me. Oh, the hiking in the area is superb! But the village left me . . . well. . .cold, lol!

s

April 15, 2009 – Time to go sledding…

After a hotel breakfast of bread, cheese, ham and my favorite Swiss beverage, a mug (or two) of Suchard steaming hot chocolate, we walked to the Gornergrat station, and purchased return tickets (34.50 CHF each). We’d scouted out the station the previous day and had been assisted by an incredibly helpful employee who cheerfully answered every inane question we tossed her way. Thanks to her, we’d come up with a plan on how to spend our day in the mountains.

http://www.gornergrat.ch/home/

We boarded the cog train with a thousand of our closest friends, dodging errant skis and poles and doing our best to not get skewered.

We detrained at Riffelalp and took the 10 minute walk to the Riffelalp Resort, which sits in an enviable position at an elevation of 7,290 feet, directly facing the Matterhorn. I wouldn’t mind chilling out up here for a few days, but I’ll have to rob a bank first.

www.riffelalp.com/

We returned to the station, and caught the train to Rotenboden, where we rented sleds (8 CHF each for ½ day). We asked the station employees if they’d look after our hiking poles - sharp pointy objects and sleds don’t mix, and it’d be just like me to impale myself - they were happy to oblige. Our plan was to sled from Rotenboden down to Riffelberg, then take the train back up to Rotenboden (4 CHF each), then sled down to Riffelberg then take the train back up to Rotenboden, then sled down to Riffelberg…..

Yes, we’re a bit long of tooth to be sledding…but we both have fond memories of a trip to Murren a few years back when we sledded from Murren to Gimmelwald, taking the cable car back to Murren just to do it all over again…and again…and again. It was an absolute blast, and I can’t remember the last time I had so much fun (or was so sore!).

So, we were trying to recapture that magical day. What we hadn’t counted on, was the steepest, slickest sledge run we’d ever encountered.

It began innocently enough. We started down the hill on our finely tuned sleds…we gathered speed…we whipped around one curve, then the next, going faster, faster…Bill vanished around a bend and I immediately realized why…there was a hairpin curve dead ahead…I panicked and tried to brake with my feet…I lost control, fell off the sled, knocked my head on the concrete-like snow and skidded down the hill, scraping my leg on the sharp edges of the groomed run in the process…..the sled kept going…and going…and going……it jumped the embankment, took to the air and disappeared….directly towards the train tracks…..

I lay there in a daze…when I realized I was still alive, I got up and tried to walk down the hill; but it was futile, it was just too steep and slick. I opted to scoot down on my backside instead. What a sight that must have been…

I eventually spotted Bill, who had seen the sled fly overhead and was probably wondering where the heck his wife had gone. We began searching for the runaway sled, worried to death that it had struck someone, but alas, we found it out in the sticks on the opposite side of a safety barrier. It had flown over the barrier and buried itself in a snow drift. Deep sigh of relief…

I knew I needed to climb right back on that sled and show that sledge run from hell who was boss, so we got on the train and headed back up to Rotenboden to give it another go. But my confidence was shot, I’d lost my mojo. While Bill zipped down the run, I set the record for slowest descent of all time (insert chicken sounds here).

When I finally caught up with Bill in Riffelberg we dropped off our sleds, and hopped on the train to Gornergrat, going all the way to the top this time. We explored all the overlooks, took a gazillion snaps of the Matterhorn, and enjoyed a glass of wine as we soaked up the gorgeous scenery.

We reluctantly left Gornergrat, taking the train down to Rotenboden one last time, where we attempted to collect our abandoned hiking poles. Apparently, while I was trying to kill myself on the sledge run, there’d been a shift change; but we eventually managed to communicate what we were after, and we were soon trudging along the groomed wanderweg back down to Riffelberg. I loved this walk, all the more so because it was such a beautiful day. The sky was a magnificent blue and made the perfect backdrop for those towering snow drenched Alps and we had the entire path to ourselves. (Total walk time just under an hour, 1.75 miles).

From Riffelberg we caught the train back to Zermatt, ending a very full day in the spectacular Swiss Alps.

That evening we dined at another of our favorites, Restaurant Walliserkanne, which has a huge varied menu and really good food. Bill had the Rosti with ham, cheese and egg (24 CHF) and I had the Raclette (8.50 CHF). We agreed it was our best meal so far and the Raclette was a deal by Swiss standards.

Next up: Snow, glorious snow…

Photos for all sections covered to date now up:

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/

Oh, Melnq8, you're killing me! :`( Great report!

Your sledging sounds absolutely fascinating, and so fun! I can imagine the thoughts running thru your head as you were skidding. I remember skiing one of the Matterhorn runs many years ago, fell while going down the icy glacier, and there was nowhere to dig in my boots. I must have slid 50 or more feet - felt like 50 miles, lol! All the way down, I was thinking this was it, my life was over. Anyway, glad you escaped safely!

The Walliserkanne is my favorite in Zermatt. Their spatzli with onions and cheese is so delicious, as is their lamb roast and gratinated potatoes. Oooooh, yum! Haven't had the raclette there...yet! ;)

This is so delightful! Thanks!

Spatzli with onions and cheese sounds divine - my stomach is suddenly growling..

Thanks for a very interesting report and also for drawing attention to the existence or otherwise of reading lights, usually neglected in accommodation reviews, but important for some of us.

In October 1978 I had a picture perfect view of the Matterhorn from the large window of my dorm (which I had to myself) in the Youth Hostel, just a little up the hill from the main town. Probably did my reading in the common room.

April 16, 2009: Our first bad weather day…

We woke to a steady rain and depressing gloom. I had a nasty scrape from the previous day’s festivities, but was otherwise intact. We’d planned to take the funicular to Sunnegga, but the inclement weather changed our minds.

Instead, we donned our rain gear and walked through Zermatt to the trail which led to Ried, a moderate track made considerably more challenging by the snow, ice and mud. It didn’t appear to be a maintained winter path and wasn’t as easy as our map had led us to believe. The slippery wet rocks and ice underfoot made it slow going. When we reached Ried, we found a shuttered restaurant, nothing more. We continued on towards Tufteren, but eventually turned back as it appeared we were walking on a ski piste. Back at Ried, we decided to walk towards Patrullarve, but this also appeared to be a ski piste, so we retreated and retraced our steps to Zermatt. We enjoyed this walk, which was 3.75 miles return and took us 2.5 hours, but I think we’d have appreciated it more in the summer. I fell three times, and we both repeatedly sank knee deep into the snow covering sections of the path. It was sleeting mightily by the time we got back to the hotel and our boots and socks were completely soaked.

After changing into dry clothes, we figured a hot lunch was in order, so it was back to the Walliserkanne for another round of Rosti and Raclette, washed down with weissbier and gluhwein (44.70 CHF). Good stuff.

We sat out the wet sloppy weather that afternoon and fully utilized those great reading lights, as we watched the sleet turn into a heavy spring snow.

Next up: Sunshine and fresh powder…

Thank you farrermog - my middle aged eyes frustrate me to no end.

Hi Melnq8:

Ah, sled runs. They are only a blast when conditions are right. The snow is soft and powdery and the runs are not icy. It makes me so angry when resorts advertise sled runs but don't keep them safe.

The Rigi has a sled run that has lots of curves and can be very icy. I refuse to go on it unless conditions are 100% to my liking. In my opinion, when the sled run is icy, it should be not be opened. Just too dangerous.

I've known Swiss people, who should be used to sled runs, receive concussions from hitting their heads to ripping their legs open by barbwire because they couldn't break due to the ice.

Sorry about your bad experience. I would have complained to the Zermatt sled rental agency for allowing tourists to go on such icy terrain without warning. Unfortunately, some of these sled rental employees are people who really don't care about safety of others and let the complaints fall on deaf ears.

Hi schuler -

Yikes. Maybe that explains why we only saw two other people up there, and we only saw them make one run. I have to admit, I thought of Natasha Richardson when I bonked my head. Next time, I'll rent a helmet, but now that I think about it, I didn't see any helmets at the sled rental place.

Hi Mel:

Your idea of renting a helmut would help the situation but again, you probably won't find any at the sled rental places. They seem to be years behind in terms of safety.

April 17, 2009: Hiking in new fallen snow…

We woke to a beautiful cold day, a thick layer of fresh snow, and a fabulous view of the Matterhorn from our balcony. I still wanted to visit Sunnegga, as it was the only Zermatt mountain excursion we’d never taken. So, we walked the 15 minutes to the station and purchased return tickets (11.50 CHF each). The underground funicular was packed with skiers, but it took a mere three minutes to reach the top.

We’d learned that there were two winter hiking trails accessible from Sunnegga, but it wasn’t clear if the higher of the two was open (the information board showed the lift was closed, but we were told by an employee it could open at any time). So, instead of purchasing tickets for the entire trip, we decided to play it by ear, even though round trip, multi-leg tickets are generally less expensive.

http://bergbahnen.zermatt.ch/e/peaks/sunnegga.html

Once at Sunnegga we floundered a bit, unable to locate the wanderweg to Tuftern. We finally had to ask a chairlift operator if he could point us in the right direction, and he indicated that we needed to dodge the skiers on the ski piste to access the trail. Our hearts sank when we found that the path hadn’t been groomed and was pretty much buried. But we forged on, breaking a trail in the fresh powder - and we’re so glad we did - it was absolutely gorgeous! We loved, loved, loved this trail, which led through forest alongside a ridge with expansive views of the majestic Matterhorn. It was just so darn pretty; the fresh fallen snow, the eye popping panorama…it reminded me of the walk from Grutschalp to Murren…views galore.

When we reached the Tuftern Restaurant, it was closed, but we heard activity inside, so we plopped ourselves down on a bench and watched the deer and chamois gather below the restaurant at a feeding station. We were eventually invited into the restaurant (which was actually just a counter that sold limited items). The owner cleared the snow from a table and chairs on the patio and we enjoyed our weissbier and gluhwein with schnapps while gazing at the Matterhorn.

We backtracked to Sunnegga (total walk time 90 minutes, two miles, easy but slow due to the deep snow), and purchased a cable car ticket to Blauherd (10 CHF each turn). We thought we’d have lunch at the Blauherd Restaurant before checking out that second hiking trail. Unfortunately, when we reached Blauherd we found the restaurant closed and we couldn’t find the trail. As we stood around wondering what to do, we noticed a lone hiker amongst all the skiers, headed up the ski run. She looked like she knew where she was going, so we followed her and sure enough, she led us right to the trail. We were soon trudging along the nicely groomed wanderweg, headed to Fluhalp.

The trail to Fluhalp is all uphill; it’s located on Rothorn Mountain surrounded by the ski runs of Rothorn Paradise.

http://www.host-pages.co.uk/mrg/guid.../restzer6.html

The trail was well maintained and challenging. By the time we reached the first hill, we were tearing off our clothes. As we approached Fluhalp we heard music, so we were pretty sure the restaurant was open – for which we were very thankful - we were tired and hungry.

Fluhalp Restaurant was hopping – many of the tables had been reserved by skiers, but we were able to locate a table on the sundeck and had ourselves a nice lunch of potato soup with brot, weissbier and wine (32 CHF) while enjoying the Matterhorn from yet another vantage point. It’s funny how good everything tastes when sitting on a sundeck in Switzerland surrounded by snow covered mountains!

Our shoes and socks were wet, so we just hung out for awhile, warming up our feet, soaking up the sun and willing our shoes to dry (didn’t work).

We finally tore ourselves away and backtracked to Blauherd, wearing only our short sleeves by the time we arrived. (Total walking distance four miles, not sure of time as we forgot to reset our GPS). We took the cable car back to Sunnegga and the funicular back to Zermatt.

For our last dinner in Zermatt we returned to the Walliserkanne (we couldn’t help ourselves, the food is really good there!), where Bill had the pizza Rosti and I had Rosti with cheese (60.20 CHF with beer and wine).

Next up: Lauterbrunnen, here we come…

April 18, 2009: A mountain of luggage, a short-tempered bus driver and a fantastic apartment…

When we checked out of Hotel Antika, we were offered a ride to the train station and I realized I hadn’t even considered that they’d have picked us up in the first place.

We purchased one way tickets to Lauterbrunnen via Visp (40.50 CHF each) and boarded the train, snagging a spot for our luggage at the end of the car. As we sat there, we watched person after person board the train and pile their bags on top of ours. Before we knew it, our luggage had completely disappeared under a mountain of bags and skis. By the time the train pulled out, it was practically bursting. I’d never been on a full train leaving Zermatt…then it dawned on me that Easter week had ended and it was Saturday, the turn over date for most apartments and some hotels. Ah ha!

In true Swiss style the train left on time, but came to a halt a few minutes later. The delay wasn’t more than 10 minutes, but it was enough to create a mild panic for those with close connections, and there was a mad rush to get off the train and collect luggage when we arrived in Visp. We knew we weren’t going anywhere as our luggage was on the bottom of the heap, so we remained seated, figuring we could always catch the next train. When we finally got off, we noticed that train employees were standing by to help unload luggage and get passengers on their way. It was efficient and smooth and we actually made our connection, despite scrambling up and down stairs with our luggage in tow, as they held our train for three minutes. You gotta love the Swiss!

We changed trains again at Spiez and were approached by a man who asked if we could assist him in getting to Murren. We told him to follow us. Once in Lauterbrunnen we explained he could get to Murren by bus to Stechelberg then cable car to Gimmelwald and Murren or by cable car to Grutschalp and train to Murren. He seemed to think his ticket was for the bus, so he followed us to the bus stop, where the bus driver told him his ticket was for the cable car. We pointed him towards the cable car, but he kept telling the bus driver his ticket was for the bus, and began waving a letter from his travel agent telling him not to take the cable car (oh brother). The bus driver grew impatient, the guy was adamant, and we were in the middle of it all, just trying to figure out where to put our luggage so we could board the bus. The guy finally agreed to buy a bus ticket and we were all on our way towards Stechelberg. Drama over.

We took the bus as far as Schutzenbach (2.20 CHF each) which is about a four minute ride from the village, but very handy if you’re toting luggage.

From the bus stop it was a short walk to the apartment we’d rented for the next seven nights. I’d had my eye on this place for awhile. We planned our trip around staying here as their rates were very attractive the week following Easter, and we were able take advantage of a good GBP – USD exchange rate when we booked in late January (we paid 600 GBP).

http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p95287

We weren’t disappointed, it was very nice! The apartment consisted of two bedrooms, a large bathroom with washer and dryer, a wonderfully equipped kitchen, a dining room and spacious lounge that opened out to the patio (complete with BBQ grill). The place was spotless, incredibly comfortable and offered fantastic views of the Breithorn and Staubbach Falls. The British owners have provided just about everything a person could possibly need during their stay. They even left us a bottle of wine, coffee, tea, milk and cookies.

I almost hate to mention the only teensy issue we had, which was the double bed in the master bedroom. A queen would have been much appreciated, but regardless, we’d still go back in a heartbeat.

NOTE: This apartment is one of several similar apartments in the same area, some of which appear on the Home Away site above.

After getting settled, we walked back to town on the riverside footpath (10 minutes give or take) and sought out lunch. It was after 2 pm, so pickins were slim. We found ourselves seated on the patio of Restaurant Schutzen…. we thought we’d understood the waitress to say they weren’t serving lunch, so we figured we’d just have a drink and soak up the scenery. Another couple was seated, ordered and the waitress brought them a hot meal. Huh. Then a third couple was seated and after some conversation, they went inside and helped themselves to the salad bar. The waitress suddenly seemed to remember that we had asked about lunch, so she came back to our table and offered us salad. We were hungry, so we each helped ourselves to a modest plate of salad. I about fell out of my chair when we were presented with a bill for 37 CHF (we’d already paid for our drinks, this was just for the salad). Ouch. We later looked at the menu – I suspect we’d been charged 18.50 CHF each for unlimited salad, instead of 9.50 CHF each for a single trip through the salad bar - oh well…

Before returning to our apartment we bought provisions; cheese from the cheese shop, bread from the bakery, and a huge basket of fresh strawberries from the Coop. Yum.

That evening we got into the spirit of things by watching The Eiger Sanction and Her Majesty’s Secret Service on DVD.

Next up: A lapse in judgment on a hiking trail…

April 19, 2009: Testing our old knees…

We were blessed with yet another pretty day, so we decided to take full advantage by walking from Grutschalp-Murren-Gimmelwald-Stechelberg-Lauterbrunnen, making a big loop.

We walked from the apartment to the Lauterbrunnen-Grutschalp cableway, which was still a funicular when we last visited in 2004. The new aerial cable car can transport up to 100 people in just four minutes. We purchased one way tickets to Grutschalp (4.10 CHF each), and then walked from there to Murren via Winteregg. This is an easy walk with spectacular views of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger (took us 1:15). Once in Murren, we stopped at one of our favorite establishments, the Schilthorn Taverne, where we had a relaxing lunch of minestrone soup, shared salad and bread (31.20 CHF with drinks).

After lunch we continued our walk, picking up the trail to Gimmelwald (all downhill, part road, part path). For whatever reason, Gimmelwald has more than its share of fans and detractors alike, and there was a time when I wouldn’t have considered staying there - but people change - now I could very much see myself spending some quality time in Gimmelwald…hiking, soaking up the views, and hiking some more…

As we came upon the trail to Stechelberg we were stopped dead in our tracks by a sign telling us it was closed. A nearby resident overheard us talking and assured us that the path was indeed open, that the sign was just out-of-date. So we kept going, and we were soon on a bergweg (mountain trail) with a steep descent. When we reached Sefinen Lutschine, there was an ominous sign that said ‘closed due to avalanche’ and we began to question that outdated sign above. We decided to keep going, as we’d come so far already and didn’t relish turning around and going back UP.

It wasn’t long before things got a bit dicey…the snow got deeper and there was evidence of some rather large landslips and rockslides….the bridge railing had been sheared off by falling rock, but surprisingly the trail was still relatively intact. We walked through this area quickly, quietly and without stopping, but still had a bit of a scare when a large rock fell about ten yards ahead of Bill.

It definitely wasn’t the smartest thing we’d ever done, but we made it unscathed and were soon continuing down to Stechelberg, where we arrived 90 minutes after leaving Murren.

Despite the scary bits, we enjoyed this walk. The steep descent made it hard on our knees, but hell, we’re old.

Once in Stechelberg, we continued walking to Lauterbrunnen - man, it felt good to be on level ground again! We made a detour at Trummelbach to see if Bill’s favorite hiking trail was open - Oh No! It was! (This is a killer hike we took many moons ago from Wengernalp to Wixi, Bigernalp, Mittlenap, Upper Preech, Lower Preech and over the upper Trummelbach Falls, then back to Lauterbrunnen.) I don’t recommend it.

I thought we’d never get home, but some 5.5 hours, 10.25 miles and an hour in the rain later, we were resting up in our apartment.

That evening we dined at the Weidstubli at Camping Jungfrau, the campground/hostel directly across the river from our apartment. This place would prove to be quite handy, as they also have a grocery store with extended hours. The stubli makes a decent four cheese pizza (16 CHF).

Next up: Taking it easy in Meiringen

Photos for all sections covered to date now up:

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html

"It wasn’t long before things got a bit dicey…the snow got deeper and there was evidence of some rather large landslips and rockslides….the bridge railing had been sheared off by falling rock, but surprisingly the trail was still relatively intact. We walked through this area quickly, quietly and without stopping, but still had a bit of a scare when a large rock fell about ten yards ahead of Bill."

Usually the signs aren't out of date and the locals don't know everything. Glad it turned out to be a great adventure with no mishaps.

Last week, an American teenage boy fell off the platform at the Trummelbach falls and was never seen again. A tragic heart-breaking holiday for that devastated family.

Let's just say we won't be making that mistake again.

Interestingly enough, the nasty hike over the Trummelbach Falls that I was convinced would be closed, wasn't. The woman at the Visitor's Center looked alarmed when we mentioned it though, and we noticed it doesn't appear on any tourist maps. Sanity prevailed, and we took a pass on that one.