April in Paris...with a Side of Bordeaux
 

You may call this a Bordeaux Sandwich Trip. A non-stop flight to Paris determined that I would sandwich some days in the Bordeaux area in the middle. As I have formatted in the past, there will be a short version with just the facts (ma'am) and a longer diary of each day.

The flight is a non-stop out of Dulles Airport near Washington, D.C. In the not too distant future, the metro should be running a line to it. That will be a huge advantage to D.C. travelers.

When I reserved at Hotel Le Clement, the second dates were not available. If I love it, I'll revisit as I like the immediate area.


25 - 28 April:

Hôtel Le Clément ** PARIS

Address 6 rue le Clément
Town/City Paris
Postcode 75006
Country France
Phone +33 (0)1 43 26 53 60
Fax +33 (0)1 44 07 06 83
Website http://www.hotel-clement-paris-saint-germain.com/
E-mail [email protected]


28 April - 2 May:

Hotel Majestic: Bordeaux
HÔTEL MAJESTIC
2 rue de Condé - 33000 Bordeaux - FRANCE
Tel. : 00 33 5 56 52 60 44 / Fax : 00 33 5 56 79 26 70
www.hotel-majestic.com / [email protected]


2 - 8 May:

Hôtel Waldorf Montparnasse *** PARIS
Address 17 rue du Départ
Town/City Paris
Postcode 75014
Country France
Phone 33(1) 43 20 64 79/Fax 33(1) 43 35 17 52
Website http://www.hotel-paris-waldorf.com/index_OLD.html
E-mail [email protected]


Come fly with me!

Forgot to say United Airlines. I don't plan to check my bag, and am enrolled in the Global Entry program. Oh, and there was an email offer a couple of days ago to move to better seats for $144. Since the plan showed at least 20 possible seats, I'm wondering if this flight isn't full. Will we be able to spread out anyhow?

Generally DH and I tried to leave as late as possible from the States so we weren't having to kill time before we got into our hotel. This is not the case and my flight is scheduled to arrive around 7 a.m.--watch for news about old lady asleep in front of the hotel. LOL.

The middle of the 'sandwich' will include a visit with Fodor's friends. More to come.

Looking forward to your TR. I was in Bordeaux following five wonderful days in Paris last Fall and while there did a marvelous cooking class at The Grand Bordeaux Hotel, then strolled around after, stopping at the Apple Store to check email. It was a sunny, warm October day - so memorable!
Hope your weather is as optimal.
Bon voyage!

Sounds good. I've stayed in the Majestic and really enjoyed it and that location. I highly recommend dining at the Brasserie d'Orleans which is just down the street and around the corner, facing the park. http://www.brasserie-lorleans.fr/

Of course your Paris hotel is perfect for going from CDG by Air France bus as it stops about right across the street, almost. But you may have planned it that way, also excellent for going to the train station to Bordeaux.

As for United, I like to fly them as the seat upgrade is a very reasonable price, as you noted (sometimes it is only about $100, it goes up closer to flight date). I don't see how you can spread out to those seats as they are in a different area. they will not allow you to move from an economy seat to an upgraded premium economy plus area if you don't have the right type of ticket, just like you can't just go sit in first class if there is an empty seat. Besides, those seats will probably be full by takeoff as people get upgrades for various reasons, and sometimes they get them at the airport if there are free ones. Those seats are totally worth $100 or so to me, especially on the flight over, as they give you extra legroom. I always buy them on flights that long if they cost less than $150.

Hi TD,

In Bordeaux I can thoroughly recommend the trams; we got day tickets which were very good value and mean that you can jump on and off at will. We also found that there was a concert in the Cathedral on the Saturday we were there which was very good.

And then there is the street of restaurants: I can't remember exactly where it is but I know that it was near the Cathedral.

Anyway you won't starve!

Are you planning to visit St Emilion near Bordeaux? Charming village.

2 chocolate shops I recommend: Saunion @ 56, cours Georges Clemenceau & Cadiot-Badie @ 26 allées de Tourny.

Restaurants: La Brasserie Bordelaise @ 50 rue Saint Remi

Cheese: Jean D'Alos - several locations.

Have a great trip! I'll look forward to following along.

Correct that E+ seats may fill up. A few years back UA changed their policy and us lowly silvers can't choose an E+ until check-in. In the meantime you can check online how full the plane is.

<i>In the not too distant future, the metro should be running a line to it. </i>
You are very optimistic!:)

Agree about the trams in Bordeaux - they are wonderful and take you all over the city for nothing. Get a ticket at the Bordeaux train station for a whole day.

I probably wouldn't spend the extra $144 for the better seat, but I am a resigned traveler - I never get enough sleep on planes no matter what I pay, and I just get my old self up and running the next day in Paris with a coffee and a croissant and push my body forward.

See you next week! I hope you have allergy medicine if you need it, because it's hayfever season around here. Flo is going to scour your bedroom before your come for allergens, but we ARE in the middle of rural France, so I hope your asthma doesn't kick in. I've kept the bedroom windows open for the past few days, but is that a good thing or bad? Seems to have cleared up the air out there - I hope so.

Thanks for all the info above.

StCirq, no worries, only outside allergy is to cats! Rest are to various meds food additives. Enjoy Paris!

The price to upgrade my seat dropped to $99 online last night.

Loong trip to gate.

Yes, gail, St E is planned.

TDuTwo (TDudette on kindle)

Cats. Oh yes, I can relate. We will NOT be introducing you to our Scots neighbors LOL!

Well, it took 2 hours to get here; one hour in long customs line, and one hour in taxi. Taxi took credit cards and had a charger. Flat rate 55 euros. Hotel is sweet but need 30 minutes for room. I am now finishing my 2nd cafe au lait while I wait.

Forgot to make this a TR but will do so upon return.

Bonjour Paris!

bookmarking- have a great trip!

Looking forward to your report, TDudette. I head to Bordeaux next week and welcome any recommendations.

I stayed at the Hotel Waldorf Montparnasse with my daughter over ten years ago. Enjoyed it at the time. La Cerisae is a small restaurant around the corner that was really excellent when I visited a couple of years ago. Tiny, so reservations required.

Have a great trip.

Kindle keyboard is difficult. Am watching Top Chef. WFD folks, a spiralizer was shown! Hearing French is also difficile!

More later.

Nikki, Missed your post. Great hotel and restaurant info, thanks.

I look forward to hearing all about it.

Days 1 and 2

80 in D.C.; 40 iN Paris

Sunday a.m. I left home at 10:15 and was on the shuttle from the economy parking lot at Dulles (IAD) at 11:50. TSA pre-check would have been a breeze if the one man in front of me kept setting off the alarm.

From there it took almost another hour to reach C Gate 27. Dulles is big and my gate was outer most? Flight was about 1/2 hour late leaving.

Flight not full and middle seat was empty. Dinner was a kind of chicken stew and earned a solid B in the ratings. Not much sleep even with my rain coat as an additional pillow.

Monday we arrived at 7:09 at CDG and it took almost another hour of walking and standing in line for customs. The moving sidewalks there replaced the escalators I am used to. If you are shaky at all, have a free hand on the railings.


At the taxi line, I asked for a cab that took credit cards. It was the 3rd in line. So can I suggest 1/3 of cabs do? It was a flat rate of 55 euros. Monday morning traffic was slow but "fluide" according to the peripherique sign.

At 9:15, we arrive hotel but not before passing Market Puce, a fair number of busineses, scads of building projects and finally the pretty streets around Blvd. Haussmann, Grand and Petit Palais and Blvd. St. Germain.

The hotel is perfect. Just the blend of shabby formal DH and I always enjoy. Photos to come. My room will be ready in 30 minutes says clerk Elabeth so I get 2 much needed cafe au laits. Kitchen open for breakfast until 10:30.

After dropping off stuff, my first goal is to find the street, Rue du Cherche Midi, where DH and spent a wonderful 2 weeks. It took longer than needed by my poor map reading and a map not detailed enough. It was not a problem as it was so nice to be back. (I did mentally berate the author of "April in Paris" though).

The general area has many cafes and restaurants. My first meal in Paris is:Confit de canard et pommes sautees et Mousse au chocolate. To drink, une verre de Cotes du Rhone AOC. 19.50 euros plus tip.

Back to room to crash.

TDude, I hope your raincoat has a liner. It's snowing here in the 20ème now, and we just got back from buying gloves and wool scarves. Can't decide whether to take a nap or brave going into town to someplace warm. But we did find a lovely café around the corner that had steaming bowls of lentils and sausage for 5.50 euros. Stay warm!

Amazing, StCirq! Thank goodness for online weather forecasts. I did bring my raincoat planning for the 60s but NOT for snow.

Are you in a higher elevation?

Tomorrow is supposed to be sunniest so far and I am going to try Giverny.

Day 3, 26 Avril 201:

Breakfast the usual continental combo one gets at non-luxury hotels. Although this one has an egg bath. The server automatically brings my grand cafe au lait.


I ran into or spied St. Sulpice 3 times in my walks yesterday and today. It is a gargantuan church and it was surrounded by young adults each time. Too bad I won't be here Sunday for organ recital but will visit the Delacroix works. Will see if rehearsal occurs during the week.

This a.m., armed with a better map, I walked to Le Bon Marche. I want to say La Samaritaine is older but not by much and possibly using different business plan.

LBM originally was a collection of vendors and some workers actually lived there. I am reading "Strapless"--About John Singer Sargent--and author suggests that married women used LBM as a place to arrange assignations. Author also says that Madame X hated her portrait from the gitgo. A note at Isabel Stewart museum from Madame to JSS says the opposite.

Anyhow, it took about 20 minutes and I thoroughly enjoyed watching chic Parisians shopping in this venerable department store. When DH and were here, we met the daughter of a friend at the Grand Epicerie of LBM so it brought a fond remembrance.

Oh, I saw the cutist tennis shoes. Covered with sequins in neat designs. Only 210 euros...

Back outside, I returned to Rue du Cherche Midi. Our old hotel sign not there, but a favorestaurant Le Petite Verdot is.

Sorry, kindle saved above before I finished last sentence above. The hotel is gone, but favorite is still there along with some of DH.

Back to hotel to find online a resto that invited. After writing this, taking a power nap, dinner will be at La Boussole. We shall see.

TDudette, getting my Paris fix but riding along with you. Second Nikki's suggestion of La Cerisae. We liked it so much we went two night during our last trip. It is not open on the weekends!! I hope you enjoy Giverny.

My first meal in Paris is:Confit de canard et pommes sautees et Mousse au chocolate. To drink, une verre de Cotes du Rhone AOC. 19.50 euros plus tip. >>

tres bien. That sounds like just the first meal i would want but I'd quite like a dozen oysters to start as well!

Regarding the weather, if it's any consolation it's cold here in Cornwall too due to a bitter north wind but sunny so if a sheltered spot can be found, it's ok. I hope that applies in Paris, but if not, it's a god excuse to go indoors and eat and drink.

I hope your second dinner is as good as the first - bon apertit!

I suppose we're at a higher elevation here in Ménilmontant/Belleville, but we got snow showers 4 times today, including at the Place Beaubourg and the Forum des Halles and waiting for the 96 bus outside the Hôtel de Ville. In between the sky would clear up completely and the sun would come out. Incredibly weird. The wind was fierce at times.

We found shelter a few times for a hot chocolate, or coffee, or, at the last stop, a glass of rouge.

Have to brave going outside now again in the rain, either for a rotisserie chicken and potatoes or back to Les Entrepôts for one of their great-looking formules.

The Delacroix were gone or closed off when I went to St Sulpice in November...I'd be eager to know if they're back in action!

On the same square as the clement go to Pouic-Pouic restaurant.
Very nice.

Enjoy Paris !

TDuTwo
I'm just around the corner from you on Rue de Lille and Rue de Bac. It's lovely to see the sun this morning and hopefully won't have to wear my whole suitcase of clothes to stay warm. We are here until Saturday when we leave for a little town in Provence called Nove. So far the weather is warm but we will see.have a great stay!

Bonjour Tdudette et al:

There were a few <i>flocons</i> yesterday here in the 5th, near the Luxembourg, where I’ve been hanging out the past week. Though I was actually strolling through Belleville & Menilmontant yesterday morning, and it was reasonably pleasant.

I’m not often drawn to the big museums, but I did make a special trip to the Orsay when I learned about the Rousseau exhibition there. Such an interesting guy -- I paired that little excursion with a visit to the Jardin des Plantes, where HR is said to have gotten much of his inspiration.

And yes, StCirq, it would vaux la peine to walk a mile through a blizzard for a poulet rôti and patates.

TDude, if you're reading this, there's an SNCF strike tomorrow that includes all the Aquitaine lines. I don't know if we'll make it home or not. The strike is supposed to last until at least 8 am Friday, so you may not get in or out of Bordeaux, either. Keep in touch. My email is StCirq at aol dot com. If you don't get through to me, I'll call the Majestique in Bordeaux and leave a message for you (assuming you've been able to get there).

PITA!

I forgot to say the resto yesterday is Cafe 6. The duck confit was a thigh and leg. There was a non-descript salad and potatoes that looked like tater tots. The mousse was very nice if a tad dense. I gave the meal a B-.

Back to day 3: Rue Guisarde has scads of restos and no parking so many people in the street.

LOL, I made reservation for 9 not 7. Owner says "You must sit here for 2 hours"). To be consistent, I order magret de canard with sauce a fois gras and mashed fava beans. Owner promises I will love his chocolate molten cake and I do so he brings me vanilla icecream with pepper. This meal gets an A/A-. Just the right size meal and very good, but I doubt the fois!

As I return to my room, I pass Machon resto and make res for tomorrow. Back to room and I am still unable to understand the French on TV.

Tomorrow looks like a sunny day so I will try Giverny.

Bon soit!

Make that bon soir!

Day 4, 27 Avril, 2017

Sunny but cold at 7 degrees this a.m.

Set alarm for 7 to eat, buy ticket and catch the 10:28 train from Gare St. Lazare. Guess who slept until 9? Oops. So I skip breakfast and walk over to cab stand at 9:45.

The taxi is a G7 someone else on Fodors has mentioned. I describe the train situation and driver says "can do"! Gare is huge and, imo, poorly marked. At 10:10 a.m., I am thinking the next train and, seeing no sign for billets, proceed to Info all the way at one end.

Voila one can buy tickets here. Take a number and clerk points to nearby doors and I make the trai with 2 minutes to spare.

Almost full train but an easy 45 minutes to Vernon where I share a cab with NYC couple and we beat the crowds on busses.

Darn, I missed so many posts. Sorry.

Thanks for strike info. Front desk will let me know tomorrow and I will email you, StCirq, as soon as I know something.

For those of you in the area (or not), I am eating at 7 at Le Machon on 8 rue Guisarde. Come by if poss. I have white hair and a blue t shirt. Off to re-read above.

TDuTwo, it's a general, national strike tomorrow - that means local transport, taxis, garbage collection, everything you can think of may be affected.

I'll email you my cell phone. I may be hard-pressed to get my laptop out to get email. Steve usually gets it on his iPAD for me, but sometimes it's delayed.

We may get stuck in Bordeaux together, which wouldn't be the end of the world!

imelda72, I will check the paintings and whathello, will try to check that resto.

Thanks again for all the info and reccos if I missed saying it.

I will ask desk to call you or do it from room. I did not buy a phone. Do you think TGV will be affected as well???

I don't think I can get stuck for long outside of Paris. Although we could get into trouble together!

I just read that only 1 in 2 TGVs heading SW from Paris will be running tomorrow. I have no idea how that will affect us, or you. I'm headed out for dinner soon, but will try to get updated information when I get back and send it to you.

what complications!

Here's hoping you all make it to the right place/s at the right time/s.

If the TGV to Bordeaux is cancelled, I will cancel Bordeaux altogether and stay at Le Clement until Monday. Plenty to do here.

No word from front desk with further info.

Hi annhig!

Good idea, TD.

I like the sound of your dinners very much. i love the idea of the restauranteur saying that you had to spend 2 hours over his meal - did you take that long?

And how was Giverny?