Anyone NOT like Florence?
 

We just got back from a first time trip to Italy. We were in Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan and drove through Tuscany. I was so excited to see Florence after hearing so many people rave about it. (I also read somewhere that the area around the Duomo is considered the most beautiful area in the world). I was very disappointed. Although it was amazing seeing the David and the treasures in the Uffuzi, besides that I wasn't really impressed. Perhaps you need to be really into art to want to spend more than a few days there. I did not think that Florence the city was particularly beautiful or charming. Although the Arno did look beautiful at night. Truthfully, I was much more blown away by Rome and Venice. Thoughts?

I'm with you Anon. Frankly, Florence is probably my least favorite city in Italy, partly because it just doesn't seem like a working, living city. I found the entire center totally dedicated to tourism -- very few shops that seemed like they actually catered to locals. Markets that didn't look like any locals were there, but everything geared for souvenir shopping. I found it hard to walk on sidewalks or even through the narrow streets because there were so many huge tour groups everywhere. I didn't see quaint little areas of locals like in cities like Venice or Rome, or certainly smaller towns. I may be a tourist too, and I don't mind tourism, but when that is all there is -- I just found the city without charm.<BR><BR>Before I get slammed, yes, I'm sure there are nice neighborhoods inhabited by locals once you leave the very center, but I find that in other cities there is a pleasant mix of them all around.<BR>Yes, David is magnificent. St. Croce is amazing (although the constant chattering by the recording in English telling you to beware of pickpockets sure removes much of its reverence.) I've posted my experience seeing the Ufizzi just after its reopening a few years ago when they lined everyone up and kept us moving in a single file through roped off portions of the museum. We were not allowed to stop to look at a painting, but kept moving at a rather brisk pace. In about an hour we were back out -- not enough to experience what is supposed to be one of the great museums of the world.<BR>I've been twice to Florence, have seen what I wanted to see, and doubt that I will be going back. But I could return to Venice or Rome every year and still not get enough.

<BR>Thank you both for your honesty! All points of view should be given here. This really helps me make decisions for meaningful travel in the future.

To Patrick and Anon: I think I can understand your feelings about Florence. The first time I went I stayed a couple of days like you and saw what I wanted. I didn't like it either. Then I went for a month and completely experienced the city. Now it's my favorite city. The problem with traveling in short periods (which I know is a necessity) is that you can't really experience the true feeling of a city.

I'm another who didn't like Florence the first time but fell in love the second, third, fourth... On a first visit to Italy, Rome or Venice are tough acts to follow. I still can't stand Florence on the weekends, but during the week it is one of my favorite places anywhere!

Add me to the list. I did like hiking up the Duomo though, and the scenery up there was wonderful. It was way too too crowded with cruise ships day trippers, IMO. Judy

Ann, I appreciate what you're saying, but I think that is true of any city in the world. You can't possibly get a full appreciation for a place in a few days. But we are really speaking about the casual traveler here. Not many people are going to discuss going to Florence to &quot;live&quot; for a month. And as much as I might enjoy &quot;living&quot; in Florence for a month, I am sure I would enjoy &quot;living&quot; in Rome or Venice for a month a whole lot more!!! So my point still stands.<BR>

To Ann: are you saying that on your subsequent visits, you went to some places in Florence that are away from the usual tourist areas, and that you enjoyed? would you mind sharing?

Florence is and has been since my first visit one of my favorite cities. It may not be &quot;beautiful&quot; in the minds of some. As an example, those who equate beauty with green parks and trees may not consider it beautiful. But it is a wonderful, vibrant city with great art and culture, wonderful food and beautiful buildings. It is enough that most people like - or love- Florence. It is not necessary that everyone agree.

Ditto Patrick. You describe my experience exactly. I just don't get it when people rave about Florence, because I too found it to be a stressful city without charm, and I couldn't wait to leave. I'm glad that I went, but I have no desire to go back. Sienna, Assisi, Paestum, Venice, and Rome were fabulous, but Florence? No.

My view was warped by the fact that we had just come from Venice and it rained the whole time in Florence. I have to admit though that we had some of the best food there.

Now that I am middleaged and am more well travelled in Italy, it's much harder to love Florence through the crowds of Americans swarming all over every surface, but many years ago, I had an unforgettable first teenage romance there the summer after the Arno flooded, and it remains my most cherished memory of Italy to this very day! Things were hardly convenient then, and there was horrific damage everywhere, but that was when I feel in love with Italy for the rest of my life!

Florence? I consider every city where you can't get a good bagel a hick town. It could be in Kentucky, Alabama or Italy. A hick town is still a hick town.

I agree with Anon and Patrick. I don't really like Florence all that much. I've been there twice and definitely didn't fall in love on the second time like some other posters. That's not to say there aren't wonderful things to see there-there are. It's just definitely my least favorite big Italian city.

I haven't been to Italy in many years, but am returning this summer. I love Florence -- very walkable, great art and churches, good shopping (not just for tourists), great food. Venice, on the other hand, seems to be one step short of Disneyland -- totally artificial and not a place where people actually live beyond catering to tourists. Maybe they do a better job of covering this up for some, but Venice's population keeps shrinking for a reason. I'm returning there, too, but only because some in my family haven't been there and should have the chance to form their own impressions as so many love it.

Been there twice and just can't warm up to Florence. It's like a Renaissance Disney World. Mobs of tourists packing a small area, no cafe life as in Rome, and indifferent restaurants. Loved Fiesole, though. It's a lovely little town.

Hi all,<BR> I wonder if those of us who have problems with cities crowded with tourists have ever considered visiting in the off seasons?

I was in Florence off-season. The central historical area was still jammed packed with tourists. I hate to think what Florence must look like during the &quot;on-season&quot;.<BR><BR>The problem with Florence is the historical center is very small with narrow streets, so it gets crowded quickly. To make matters worse, automobile traffic is allowed throughout most of the historical center, even by the Duomo. The traffic jams are horrendous, and ruin whatever historical ambience would otherwise be there.<BR><BR>The town officials could remedy much of the problem if they wanted to, e.g. by restricting car traffic to residents, and requiring all other visitors to take shuttles into town from outlying parking lots. Florence would still be crowded, but at least the traffic jams would be reduced, which would help a lot.

We were in Florence in the off season (we visited a few weeks ago). It was still packed with tourists and we waited in line for the Uffuzi for 3 hours. Then once we were inside, like Patrick, we were hustled through in a herd.<BR><BR>I do agree that certain areas of Venice have a Disneyland feel. However, when we were there it was uncrowded (San Marco was virutally empty!) and we were able to really enjoy it. We walked everywhere and found quaint residential areas and also really enjoyed the outer islands. The same for Rome. It wasn't that crowded when we were there, but once we moved away from the main tourist areas we were really able to experience the city. I just did not get that feeling in Florence. No matter where we were it felt crowded and the shops and resturants all seemed to cater to tourists. The attractions were too crowded to enjoy them. I actually enjoyed Milan more than I did Florence! It's nice to hear that I am not the only one who didn't enjoy it. When we came back and I told friends of my impressions they looked at me like I had two heads!

For those of you who haven't been to Florence or Venice in many years, go prepared.<BR><BR>The main sections are very commercialized. My husband was shocked as he had been about 14 years ago, I have never been until now. It was like an upscale mall.<BR><BR>You really have to get away from the main walking areas if you want to see more &quot;normal&quot; activity.<BR><BR>The market in Florence is a joke. Plain and simple. Their idea of bargaining is taking $2 off a $25 item. It's ridiculous. It's obvious they're only doing this &quot;market&quot; thing to cater to the tourism. The deals are marginal at best unless you're used to paying top dollar for things. If that's the case, you might think it's fine.<BR><BR>I'm used to shopping in lots of places from L.A. to Hong Kong and the deals in Florence were a disappointment.<BR><BR>Had some great food though and the San Lorenzo food market is the highlight.

Lynn<BR><BR>Agree, the San Lorenzo food market is one of my favorite places in Florence, next of course to the Duomo and Giatto tower. My other favorite is the Science museum behind the Uffizi where Gallaleo's original instraments can be found. Just walking down the medievil streets surrounded by such history and art is a thrill. However, with all its assets (never have figured out the appeal of the Ponte Vecchio), I too questioned what all the fuss was about. Driving into the city is a nightmare. I enjoy Florence but it certainly isn't my favorite city. Give me the smaller towns like Montelchino!<BR><BR>BTW, when shopping at the open market this last December, many vendors told me their American sales were down almost 50%. I think they will negotiate much more now.

The first time I visited Florence I really did not like it at all. A few years later I agreed to go to Florence again for a friend's sake who had never been. I kept saying it was my least liked of all the cities in Italy but right in the middle of our visit, something happened and I found that I did sort of like it.<BR>Then I went a third time with my son and some other friends and this time I fell in love with Florence. I agree that it can be crowded, but move away from the crowds a little and really look at the architecture of the buildings, read up a little on who the palaces belonged to originally and the amazingingly interesting stories that go with it. Read a little about the Medici family and the Strozzis and their feuds and another dimension will be added to your visit.<BR>Go out at night around 11pm and walk the streets that are nearly deserted and hear your footsteps on the stones and think back to their past, you may find that you will change your mind about Florence like I did.

A really interesting thread - clearly everyone has a different take on things....<BR><BR>I fell in love with Florence the moment I first arrived. (Via train, from Cinque Terre and before that Milan.) I have been back every couple of years, and it continues to cast its spell over me each time. I love the architecture, the colors, the angle of the light in the sky. The fact that you can walk everywhere. The focus on food, wine, art (I'm a sucker for the Renaissance - what incredible colors!) I don't believe in reincarnation per se, but I've often said that perhaps I did live there in a former life, because I instantly felt as if I were &quot;home&quot; in Florence.<BR><BR>I travel in April-May or October-November, so I haven't experienced the peak season crush. I spend very little time in the area near the Duomo or Piazza della Signoria. I love wandering along the Arno, over to Trastevere, and the maze of streets there.<BR><BR>I'm a city girl. And my home town is full of tourists. So maybe that has something to do with it? I have to say that while I find Rome fascinating, I also find it exhausting, and about 3 days at a time is enough for me.

I have an idea that the people who don't appreciate Florence don't have the imaginations to walk around the outskirts of the city such as along the ramparts, they just stand in the middle of the tourist sites and wail.

Loved Florence. Shortly before leaving, I read The Agony and the Ecstasy, about the life of Michaelangelo, and the Medici family in Florence. When we got there, I felt like I was walking through history. Sitting in that main square with the statutes (sorry, forget the name) I was overwhelmed to think that it did not look much different 500 years ago, when Michaelangelo created, and the Medicis ruled. We thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Pitti Palace and it's &quot;backyard&quot; the Bobli Gardens. One evening, we attended a ballet of Romeo and Juliet in the Bobli Gardens. We made reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia far in advance, based on advice here, and walked right in, passing the ever building line of less-initiated non-Fodorites. Even the Salvatore Ferragamo shoe fashion museum was fun. The Ponte Vecchio is charming and the view of the Arno magical at sunset. The synagogue is beautiful, and not inundated with tourists. The shopping was excellent. I could go on...

sorry-- how could you not love florence?? i lived there as an exchange student and would spend hours just walking all around the center and the neighborhoods.i also loved rome, but florence was not too big, but big enough.

I didn't like it the first time because we made the mistake of driving our car right smack in the middle of town to find our hotel, and by the time we navigated one ways in the humid/hot weather, I was ready to just leave. <BR><BR>I also was tired from the trip and didn't use my imagination at all, I just trudged around with a map and bumped into other tourists all day.<BR><BR>Since then, I travel alot differently, ie: I do my homework and it makes almost any city fascinating.

OK, Penn, I'll bite. Where are the Florence ramparts and where do they go?

We were there for a week in the mid '90's. The evening we arrived we had a pretty good dinner, rather expensive, at the O-----restaurant, near the Duomo. The sidewalks were so narrow that I bumped a woman with my elbow. The next day we toured the Straw market, the Accademia museum and then the Baboli Gardens, where my legs were beginning to feel like lead. Had bad pizza and bad service on a terrace in the Piazza dei Signorini? Back to the hotel and then it hit;5 days of flu or food poisoning-don't know which -should have seen a Dr. Could eat nothing and didn't even watch TV. We had reservations at Lake Garda after that so had to move on. Can't tell if any of this was psychological. Kept telling myself that these were precious, expensive days but I just didn't care. I've read about the strange reaction that all the beauty of Florence can cause. Have yet to return.

Didn't like it all that much. David was fantastic and I thought the areas across the Arno and up the hill were prettier and more enjoyable, but all in all, too claustrophobic and crowded for my tastes. That said, I'd like to give Florence another shot someday.

Florence has been my least favorite Italian city for quite some time. But my wife is a Renaissance freak, so when we went to Italy together for her first time, she insisted that we spend 3 days there. We left after 2, PTL. Once she had seen a variety of the art and architecture, which are fabulous, she was ready to leave the rest of it behind.

I think it's interesting that the original poster said they &quot;just got back&quot; in January. All my issues with Florence have been related to crowds. I wonder if it was crowded in January.<BR><BR>My first Florence experience was arriving hungry, and having a great meal then walking around the corner and .... boom, there was the Duomo. Beautiful! And then walking on toward the Uffizi and a violist was there playing hauntingly eerie Vivaldi. Then we kept walking and there was the moon on the Arno. The more we walked the more we found new, incredible things.

I've been to Florence twice over the years. <BR><BR>I think if I was helping someone plan a trip I would provide a short description and let them decide.<BR><BR>Rome for the history and sights.<BR>Florence for the culture.<BR>Venice for the feeling.<BR>Amalfi Penninsula for the beauty<BR>etc.<BR>

Out of all the places we have ever been, I'm sad to say that Florence was the most disappointing. All my life I looked forward to seeing it, with all the art I had studied. Granted, we were there in June of last year, and it was very hot (about 100 degrees F). The place was overrun with tourists, more Germans than we see in Germany! The lines to get into every museum was hours long. Maybe part of my disappointment came from high expectations. On the other hand, I did not have high expectations of Venice, and was completely knocked out by it. I keep thinking that I need to go back to Florence to give it another chance, but don't know if it would be any better at another time. The San Lorenzo market is so full of &quot;made in China&quot; merchandise that it is a joke. It is all such a kitchy tourist trap. Our favorite place was the Santa Croce church with the tombs of Michaelangelo, Dante, Galileo, etc. It seemed to be somehow off the beaten tourist track, at least when we were there, and was very moving. I would love to go back to Siena and Venice.

I see more posters are wailing at the crowds, going to the market and staying right in the middle of town in the summer.<BR>If you walk along the Arno after taking a left after you cross the Ponte Veccio then sort of bear to the right on your way to that church on the top of the hill, I forgot the name right now, you will cross under the gate of the old wall. You can find the wall in different walks you can take, this is what I called the ramparts.

We were in Florence 2 months after 9/11 and literally had the city to ourselves (well, almost). It was truly grand! There has to be a direct correlation between the amount of tourists and one's enjoyment of the city. We loved it! I guess one can wait until a catastophic event and then travel alot. We traveled to Europe three times in the year after 9/11 and really took advantage of &quot;off-peak&quot; travel.

We were in Florence for 3 days a few days after 9/11. We loved it. We went to the Uffizi late in the day and walked right in. Couldn't get enough of the wonderful pizza of the duoma square. The gelato was delicious. I agree with previous posts in that if you read up on the history of Florence you may find a greater appreiation for it. Oh, and strolling Bobli gardens on a warm sunny day? I hope to go back soon.

Penn, while your observation may be true of some people, it certainly isn't true of all. Though your general observation could go for any tourist site in the world for some people. I don't think that personal insults add much to the discussion--just because someone doesn't like the same things you do does not make them somehow inferior.

Dear Mr. Bill, where do you see that I insulted people? I stated that people write on threads here that they went to all the crowded parts of Florence during the height of tourist season and then complain that it was crowded.<BR>Do you see the logic?<BR>I know for a fact that if you walk AWAY from the center of Florence, it is like any other city, with people walking around during the daytime. <BR>I am only observing what I read here and that is alot, not all, people complain about tourists crowding them, so step away from the crowd.

Mommy, mommy, I am in a crowd of people what shall I do? Waaaaaa.<BR>