Another, 'nother Paris Apartment Poll
 

Hello Everyone!

I'm a new member of the forums. First, a little back ground: My husband and I are in our late 20's, early 30's and are planning a trip to Paris over the Christmas and New Year holidays. We will be staying a little over 2 weeks. It's my first time out of the country. Our budget for accommodations is around $2000 to $2500.

Here are some of the apartments we are looking at:

http://www.vrbo.com/22269

http://www.clickappart.com/paris-loc...tail.php?id=16

http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p253307

I know next to nothing about the different arrondissements in Paris. Which is a safe one to stay in? We are hoping to immerse ourselves in the culture and don't want to stay in a touristy area. Any tips? How cold does it get in winter?

Thank you all so much for taking the time to help us out!

Best,
BurritoWoman

It can get pretty damn cold in Paris at that time of year!

I would want to be close to a metro stop. I would want an apartment with a guarantee of good heat.

If you want to stay out of the touristy areas, consider apartments in arrondisements 9-16

How long is your stay?

Stay in the central areas 1-8 generally.

apersuader65, we will be staying for 18 nights.

Also, does Paris do anything special for Christmas or New Years?

I wouldn't take apt 1 because I wouldn't want to be in that neighborhood and walk uphill. I wouldn't take the one in the 7th because the neighborhood is too touristy and the 7th is not convenient for walking around or metro stops.

The one in the 15th looks nice, but the price is a bit high, and I can't tell how close it is to a metro stop (I like lots of metro stops around). I'd keep looking.

Staying in a vacation rental in 1-8 arrondisement ups our chances of being in a touristy area eight-fold.

Out of the 3, I would only consider the Clickappart apt.

The VRBO is okay, but in the Pigalle/Montmartre neighborhood, which is a bit far out for a 1st time visitor. I think the main selling point is the balcony, but it'll be too cold in the winter for you to sit out to enjoy it anyway.

The Homeaway apt is in the 15th arr; and it's <i>tiny</i> - 20m squared. That's barely over 200 sq ft. There's not even a sofa to sit on, just a couple of plastic chairs. NO WAY.

Hmm...

Here are a few more we are considering, but I thought these were too far away from stuff to do. I guess staying close to the Tour Eiffel and whatnot means you're in a touristy area?

http://www.feelslikehomeinparis.com/frenchflair.html

http://www.clickappart.com/paris-loc...tail.php?id=29

http://www.goin2travel.com/parismontmartre.htm

P.S., the Clickappart apt is on the 3rd floor, which is US 4th floor. There's no mention of elevator on the website; if you're interested in that apt you should find out for sure. Otherwise, be prepared to walk up 4 flights of stairs every day (including w/your luggage).

yk, you are totally right about the balcony. My husband really liked that one because he said it looked warmer. I thought it looked dusty. ;)

The Homeaway apt is tiny, yes, but its cute! And cheap! This one is, in my mind, the choice of last resort.

In your first group the only one that looked nice to me was the vrbo one.

You can view the gointotravel one in your second group on the website for the company that manages it: http://www.parisvacationapartments.c...r2bedroom.html.

If you choose that last one, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts as we have it booked for a week next June. They have been delightful working with in the booking and give you tons of great travel planning/pointer info sheets.

As to cold, I'm from Chicago, so I would think that Paris couldn't even compare in the winter so I would consider it relatively balmy. If you are from Texas, it might be cold to you.

Also, rent the movie Amelie to determine whether you might like staying in the Montmartre area!

SuzChicago,

Why did the vrbo one look good to you? Was it the location or decor or something else?

Thanks for the website link. I emailed them about availability for some of their studios. I'll let you know what I find out.

Well -- It's a matter of taste, but it looked like it would be warm and cozy to return to in the winter. One of the apts. you gave us a link to was all white and grey and I would find that dreary on a winter day to go home to if it was cold and rainy.

Last time I was in Paris was 1989. Went by myself over Thanksgiving (last minute when I found out I could get away from work.) I stayed for awhile in a more touristy area and found it somewhat bleak. Shifted to a hotel not far from Montmartre and loved it. I loved wandering around the 18th as people lived there and it seemed lively. Plus great for people watching. Never felt like getting to the tourist sites was a haul thanks to the Metro and just enjoyed the neighborhood feel. Woman on my own -- never felt nervous in the area, but didn't take the Pigalle exit from the Metroa as it was a little seedy. Use normal city street smarts.

SuzChicago,

Turns out they are all booked for the time I want to go.

Montmarte, huh? I'll have to check it out. I definately want a neighbrhood feel. Kind of a slow paced place we can relax in, preferably with a cafe nearby. It'll be nice to people watch on a cold evening with a hot coffee and some cookies.

http://www.vrbo.com/103254

This one is in the 11th, not a touristy area, but close enough to walk to the Marais and the Bastille, and also close to metro and bus stations. The best features is its garden, which you couldn't really appreciate in the winter, but I think those big doors would let in a lot of nice light during the winter months. Reasonable cost, too. We will probably rent it next fall.

Jo

I wouldn't want to stay in Montmartre (the 18th arr.), period. It is both touristy and too hilly after a long day of stomping around, and some areas are decidedly seedy.

You have to decide whether you want "not touristy" or "not far from the sights." If you pick the latter to be close to the sights, look for apartments in 1-8 arrondisements, but apartments in the 7th are actually only close to Les Invalides, the Eiffel Tower and the Musee d'Orsay.

Try looking for apartments in arrondisement 1-4. You can find some sweet hideaways, but still be in easy reach of the core artistic heritage of historic Paris,

I think the VRBO one looks fine, though if you are interested in nightlife, IMO arr. 10, 11, 12 all have more bars/nightlife within walking distance (not that you won't find anything in that area)- note, the trains stop running before bar close. I would not stay near Eiffel if I were interested in nightlife, though, I am making the assumption that you are, maybe you don't care about that.

Also, I've sat on balcony in "cold" plenty of times - 45-55 degrees F is not THAT cold.

I would take this suggestion, now that I looked at it, apt looks nice.:

ParisJo on Sep 25, 09 at 03:58 PM

http://www.vrbo.com/103254

This one is in the 11th, not a touristy area, but close enough to walk to the Marais and the Bastille, and also close to metro and bus stations. The best features is its garden, which you couldn't really appreciate in the winter, but I think those big doors would let in a lot of nice light during the winter months. Reasonable cost, too. We will probably rent it next fall.

I think this forum demonstrates the adage, "To each his own." Anyhow, this website can give you some help with events, etc.:
http://www.paris-update.com/fr/

Don't know if it has Christmas/New Year's on the calendar yet.

We aren't really nightlife people. Perhaps a cool bar with a band, but that's about it. And we would probably only do that once or twice. The Hubbs doesn't drink (I do) so it would be about the music for him.

I'd like "Not Touristy", please.

Zappole, care to share a few of these "sweet hideaways"? Do you have the hook up? I totally agree with you about not staying in a hilly area. We are planning on walking a lot (I'm already training on an elliptical for the miles and miles of walking).

*sigh* I'm a bit overwhelmed. Which to choose? We'd like to pick one this weekend so we can plan the rest of our vacay.

BurritoWoman,

Have you taken a look at the apartments at www.parisbestlodge.com. I haven't stayed with them (had a good e-mail exchange once) and they are well-reviewed here on the board. The apartments are primarily in the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th. Very central.

Also, many people like www.vacationinparis.com.

paris jo's suggestion looks great - I have stayed in that general area and enjoyed it. And the price is good, too.
As you may have noticed, prices tend to increase around the Christmas holiday. You may not be dining al fresco but the garden/patio is nice. I'd jump on it

I also was not thrilled by the other places - and though cheap, the former bakery would feel like shoebox after a couple days, let alone two weeks.

Burritowoman, I have actually enquired about the French flair apartment. Is this booked as well? It faces a courtyard so is quiet but not particularly bright, but in winter that probably doesn't matter. I just loved the street it was on, I walked up and down rue Lepic heaps last May and really warmed to the area. In fact I am looking at staying around there or a bit further north next time I go. It is really close to the metro and there are many lovely little shops both food and other types very close buy. Like, next door!!

Have a look at frencyrentals.com and see the rue Constance apartment. It was right opposite the hotel we spent the last night in Paris (we had an apartment for a month)Again I really like the street, a side street, very quiet, off rue Lepic. I cannot say what the apartment looked like. I did try to see it when I was in Paris but it was booked so unavailable for sticky beaking at.

Do not be put off this area, but you have to be discerning and if it is the first time you may get caught in a dodgy street. I had the luxury of time and could wander around and decide which streets I really liked for next time.

Schnauzer

http://www.homeaway.com/search/refin...edrooms:Studio

http://www.paristay.com/apartment-re...ent-paris.html

http://www.guestapartment.com/proper...dio/daisy.html

Just do searches for "paris vacation rental third arrondisement" (or anything less than 4) and see what you get.

Suzchicago says:

"Last time I was in Paris was 1989." That was 20 years ago.

I think you have a lot of ideas about Paris that aren't true at all, and since you have never been there, you should forget this idea of not staying in a touristy area. There is hardly any place in Paris that would be so touristy that you wouldn't want to stay there, if you are a complete newcomer to the city (and don't know French, which you don't say, but I'm guessing). The only places I would really stay away from to avoid touristy are small parts of some of the arrondisements where a lot of tourists walk a lot -- which would be around the St Michel metro and rue de la Huchette in the 5th, and the main part of St Germain near bd St Germain and perhaps the Marais in some main parts. Maybe the 7th near rue Cler, but even its not as bad, and Montmartre around Sacre Coeur. I wouldn't want to stay real close to the Eiffel Tower as I don't like the area, but it's just not that convenient for many reasons. What is the obsession of tourists with staying near the Eiffel Tower, anyway, I just don't get that idea. It's a metal tall landmark, why do you want to stay near it?

You aren't going to be sitting around cafes drinking coffee and eating cookies, for example, they don't serve cookies in French cafes. Also, you aren't going to find some local neighborhood bar with a bar band. If you don't speak French, staying in an outer area that is totally nontouristy won't be as convenient for you as they won't speak English as much in the stores, even in the 15th, for example. Of course you can get by, but it will take you longer to get anywhere and you'll spend a lot more time on the metro or bus with transfers, etc. It's just not a great idea for someone who has never been there and doesn't know much about Paris and doesn't know French.

Your budget is very cheap for Paris at holiday time, which is the most expensive time of the year, so choose a place that is a convenient location and near a metro stop, and you like the apt.s, and forget the ideas about touristy locales. It is very gray and dreary in N. Europe in the winter, and could be rainy, of course, and temps maybe in the 30s in the daytime, or 40s. Similar to New York City, if you know it.

Why be so snippy with BurritoWoman, Christina? Good heavens -- she's just seeking some friendly advice and doesn't deserve it.

Suz..........Christina mostly replies in a matter-of-fact way and never spends time pussyfooting around her answers, though I'm sure she means well. Her advice is very fair.
For instance BurritoWoman expresses the fact that she knows nothing about the arrondisements and wants to immerse themselves 'in the culture'. This statement prooves that she needs to get a guide book and start reading as most of us will be asking the question of her "Whose culture"?
As Kerouac stated not that long ago (and I'm going on memory now) that there are at least 5 China Towns besides the many other ethnic groups that live out of the touristy areas! I can only assume BurritoWoman means 'the French culture'?!

We loved the area around Belleville, Batignolles, & China Town around rue de Choissy & Ivry. Friends of our rented a superb little apartment here.

For a first time visit staying in places like Bastille can be very untouristy but very interesting. READ BurritoWoman, and you will get a much better idea of the area you will be happy staying in!

have a look at this one as well, well I stayed there with my friend and it was pretty great around everything we wanted to see
http://www.lodjee.com/abbesses-1-bed...aris-apartment

Paris flea market is a great area for some shopping you can find quite everything and its huge !Saint Ouen is the metro station. Go to the Marai also !

Heres something you could do BurritoWoman - When you think you have settled on an apartment, go to this website and it will allow you to walk around the area and of course, the entire city of Paris. Just click on the "Paris dot", type in the number and street name in the little squares, click "recercher" and off you go. I wander around Paris alsmost daily on Pages Jaunes and discover interesting little places, cafe's, restaurants etc., that I can go to on my next visit - my 12th!
http://tinyurl.com/c9rapm

Happy huntin'!!

I would definitely suggest you the one on Montmartre as it is my favorite area in Paris, very alive and very artistic. Probably Montmartre is the most parisian corner of the city.
When I go to Paris, though, I always rent apartments from the same company which always gave me the best service and best solutions for my needs. Here is the link to their site: http://www.paris-apartment-rent.com/index.html
You can send them an email and ask them what you are looking for and I'm sure they can find a good apartment for you.
How cold can it get, very cold. Often it snows in that period. So bring your warm clothes.

There are a couple of things mentioned by posters above that I think might confuse you or put you off. For one thing, I think you might very well find neighborhood bars with music. I have been to such places in several neighborhoods. Sometimes I saw ads for the bands, and other times I just heard music as I was walking by.

For another thing, if you go to the St. Ouen flea market, you want to take the metro to the Porte de Clignancourt station (not the St. Ouen station). Then walk past the highway underpass and turn left on rue des Rosiers to enter the most interesting parts of the market. The stuff near the metro station is not really part of the market, and is not the type of merchandise you probably hope to find at the Puces.

As far as neighborhoods, I paid a lot more attention to this when I went to Paris the first couple of times. After that I realized that no matter which neighborhood I stayed in, I found all sorts of interesting places and had a great time. I would be happy to stay in all sorts of neighborhoods now.

Reading some of these comments makes me wonder if some of the posters have ever spent any time in Paris outside the arr. under 8 or Montmartre.

There is quite a different feel to Paris in the arr. that don't contain the major tourist attractions. Likewise Rome. Likewise NYC. I can't imagine staying on the Ile de Cite and enjoying it, or right on top of the Louvre. Or much of gentrified Monmartre And that's just the worst of it.

I've noticed a lot of people on Fodor's really dislike it when newcomers post and include a desire to experience something of a foreign country or foreign place that isn't deformed by tourism or right on the tourist track. They are lectured, talked down to, told they are being unrealistic, that it isn't a problem, it's all in their heads, and that there is no such thing as the "culture" they are seeking, it's all to complex for a tourist -- so they might as well shape up and just go be a tourist and quit being so pretentious!

By the way, just as an aside, I've had lots of cookies in French cafes.

I beg to differ.

wholeheartedly agree with zeppole on this. BTW, re: "Also, you aren't going to find some local neighborhood bar with a bar band." -really? I have had no problem with this in any city including Paris. Frankly, I wonder when the last time the person who posted this was in a bar, or rather, was on a serch for some nightlife. We all have different interests and are quite able to find what we are interested in when traveling. Please forgo giving horse-sh** advice when you clearly have no clue as it isn't your interest.

Tod -- what a great website! Thanks much.

Okay, if you want yet another opinion here is mine...I loved staying in the 7th arrondissement I didn't feel like it was too touristy. Yes, the Eiffel Tower was a 5 minute walk away, yes I could go to bed a night and look out the window and see the Eiffel Tower lit up...it was wonderful. Rue Cler market was below us and every morning we had fresh fruit and croissants for breakfast and yes every night after a day of touring around Paris we would stop and pick up a baquette to go with our dinner just like the French people. The metro was one block away and we had wonderful cafes all around us. We stayed in a ParisPerfect apartment. Regardless of where you stay I don't think you will ever be disappointed in going to Paris! It is by far the most beautiful, magical city. Have a great time...Au Revoir Ptm

Have you been to the Paris apartment thread?
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ent-thread.cfm

Wherever you end up will be lovely. We're planning our 2nd trip after one lovely 2 week stint. I liked the bustle of some areas of the 6th or 7th, but I was very happy to retreat back to the Marais. I felt that the Marais, with its windy streets and shorter blocks, was easier to absorb and explore for this first-timer than the grander blocks and wider streets elsewhere. We were in the 3rd, so about 20 min from the Seine, but in an areas full of boutiques and food shops. Plus, we were very close to the Bastille area, where we definitely felt we were starting to venture into areas that were a bit less gentrified (as much as anywhere in central Paris could be characterized as such). Yes, there were plenty of tourists (and we were there during Fashion Week so some of those tourists were of the tall, leggy type!) but like any big city there were many more locals. For us, it was the perfect balance between a neighborhood feel and an area that was used to enough tourists so I didn't feel too stupid trying to get by with my broken French and some English.

The areas where we felt had the more tourists were close to the Seine, especially in the shopping areas around the 6th, and along the Champs Elysee as we got closer to the Arc de Triomphe, with its luxury stores and chain stores. But, you're never more than a street or so away from feeling immersed in Paris again.

I stayed in the 11th last year on rue JP Timbaud. I loved staying there- it was such a relief to come home to a normal neighborhood at the end of the day.