Another France Change of Plans: Help With Loire and Normandy Appreciated
 

Well, we've changed our Fall 2012 trip once again. We've decided after our five nights in Sarlat to head north to the Loire, Mont Saint-Michel and Normandy before ending in Paris. We are saving Languedoc and Provence for another journey where we will have more time to see each area along with some of the Dordogne we miss on this trip

In the Loire, we we have stayed in Amboise (1998) before and liked it. What is your favorite base? I thought we might stay near Angers the last night (planning on total of four nights in Loire) to make for a shorter drive to MSM.

Because it is the way we travel, we will pack in as many chateaus as is humanely possible, which will make all the Slow Travel people shudder, but we did this in the late 1990s and never experienced the dreaded "Chateau Overload." But from now on, I am planning every trip like it's my last one. I can sleep when I die!

Chateaux (Chateaus...I never know which way to spell it) on my list include:
Amboise (with a stop also at Clos Lucé)
Angers (remember ,never look back in Angers)
Azay-le-Rideau
Blois
Chambord
Chaumont sur Loire (because we missed the gardens last time we were there, and its festival is still on in early October)
Chenonceau
Cheverney (I loved the hounds...I think that's the place)
Ruins at Chinon (remember I enjoyed that)
Lots of Chateaux, eh?
Saumur (yes, there are even Saumur chateaus to discover)

Don't know about Valencay (looks interesting). Any others we should see? skip?

Not going to go inside Ussé. I remember I thought it was kind of cheesy last time.
I think it will be too late for gardens at Villandry.

Somehow we will have to find some time for some wine, and if I remember there are wine caves we could visit (hmm, that might cut out some of those chateaus (no matter how you spell them).

Also looking for hotel/inn recommendations in Bayeux and Honfleur area. Is there a D-Day tour anyone has been on recently? Mary's dad was part of the invasion, so we'd like to do one for maybe a half-day.

We'd like to keep in the $100 - $150 a night range if possible for lodging.

At least we have booked the flight, so barring any near-death scenarios (always a possibility with us), it is France here we come.

Thanks.

((H))

Everyone has their own pace Tom and only you know yours best.

Our most recent trip we stayed in Beaugency and the Ecu de Bretagne. Pretty far east for most people's tastes but the hotel suited us, teen daughter even got her own room, the town pleasant and doing some extra driving is not a problem.

I recently read Ina Caro's excellent "The Road from the Past". There is a wonderful section on the Loire. For example, I've been to Amboise 3 times over the years yet never knew there used to be lions kept in the moat! You'll find the book handy for future trips to Languedoc and Provence too. Hope this helps get the ball rolling...

Hi, Tom.

I've done a number of 4- to 5-day trips through the Loire and like to split up my bases: 2 nights in Amboise or Blois and 2 nights in Saumur (or Angers, but we've never spent nights there). If you want one single base from which you can do a couple of days east and a couple of days west, Chinon is perfect.

In Angers, BTW, besides the tapestries in the château, see if you can go across town and see Jean Lurçat's interpetation of them (he also has tapestries in the Dordogne outside St-Céré.

Just outside Saumur is the Cave de Saumur, a good place for oenophiles. There's also the town of Vouvray, and Sanceree, and lots of others. You won't be wanting for wine.

In Bayeux we stayed at the Château de la Bellefontaine, just on the edge of town - 5 minute walk into the center. Loved it, but it doesn't have a restaurant (not a big issue - there are plenty in Bayeux). In Honfleur, I like the Hôtel l'Ecrin.

"I recently read Ina Caro's excellent "The Road from the Past". "

Thanks PA, I will pick up a copy.

SC,

Nice to know "I won't be wanting for wine." Chinon sounds like an interesting idea. I will start scouting out places. Thanks.

((H))

Don't forget the Abbaye de Fontevraud (Fontevraud Abbey) outside Chinon. Resting place (at least for the tombs) of King Henry II and Richard I of England, Eleanor d'Acquitaine and Isabella of Angoulême.

Take the carriage exit out of Chateau d'Amboise.

Yes, Cheverny has the hounds, and all the Tintin stuff.

Saumur's chateau should be about rebuilt or close to it. Saumur also has the Musee des Blindes - the tank museum.

Also in the vicinity of Chenonceau you should include a visit to Loches and it's château/fortress ruin if you haven't seen it. The nearby châteaux of Montrésor and Montpoupon would be good additions to this day. Then there's Saint-Aignan just east of here. I would also add another medieval château/fortress in the town of Langeais.

http://www.loches-tourainecotesud.co...ex.php?lang=en

http://www.loches-tourainecotesud.co...id=138&lang=fr

http://www.tourisme-langeais.com/en/

http://www.tourisme-valdecher-staignan.com/

If you want some ideas for Normandy near Bayeux and Honfleur check out these threads:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic....html#39058384

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic....html#37142728

The Bayeux tourist office website has info about D-Day tours and guides. All tourist office websites have info about accommodation and restaurants.

"Don't forget the Abbaye de Fontevraud (Fontevraud Abbey)"

That's the place I've been trying to think of all day that's been driving me crazy. Thanks BR.

FMT, We saw Langeais before, however the châteaux (I am assuming with your track record that you are correct with that spelling) of Montrésor and Montpoupon (there's gotta be a good joke in there for me somewhere) are now on the list. Thanks for all the info.

((H))

Sounds like a great trip Mait. We stayed overnight in Blois,
David in Paris on the slowtrav forum rents a nice little apatrment in Honfleur.

Château = Singular Châteaux = Plural

Montpoupon = Potty humor. Hehehe. ;)

A lot of people have recommended the Hotel Churchill in Bayeux. Right behind it is the square from which the guided D-Day landing tours leave.

I'll second BigRuss's recommendation for the Abbaye de Fontevraud. You can even stay there and explore the grounds on your own at night. (And the room rate includes admission - just make sure you get a ticket from the desk.)

> I think it will be too late for gardens at Villandry

Do check into that. As I recall, as long as you get in before the gate closes, you can stay and roam around the gardens.

Enjoy!

If driving from the Dordogne up to the Loire valley, you may want to visit Oradour-sur-Glane,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57623276890499

Saint-Savin and/or Poitiers, Meillant also has an interesting chateau, with a miniature Medieval village built in the former stables.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57623276890499
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57623276890499
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57624575935008

Oh, yeah...Are you driving from the Dordogne to the Loire (I wouldn't do it ever...booooring...but if you are do stop at Oradour. If you're not, take the TVG from Libourne or Bordeaux to Tours and pick up your rental car there).

Sounds like a great trip! We stayed in Loches last year and loved it - they also have a castle. If you search for Bikerscott (my hubby) you can see our trip report.

Also second StCirq's suggestion about Oradour sur Glane...very emotional.

We just are returning from four days in Bayeux. Stayed in the new Hotel Villa Lara. It is adjacent and owned by the family that owns the Churchill. It was an excellent hotel. We booked a D-Day tour through Overlord Tours. they offer many options for full day, one-half day tours as well as specific Normandy campaigns.
We also booked the one day tour offered by the Churchill to Mont St. Michel. You have a 90 minute van ride each way and then three hours on Mont St. Michel. For us that was sufficient.

We rented a car one day and drove to Honfleur along the coast, passing through Deauville and Trouville on the way

We found many very good restaurants in Bayeux and it was a good base for Normandy

Yes, we will be driving from Dordogne to Loire (one of the reasons is that we wanted to stop at Oradour sur Glane).

The drive shouldn't be too boring since we have our secret long-drive weapon in Mary. While Kim and Tracy sit in the backseat reading (at least I think that's what they're doing back there), Mary will be peppering me with an array of questions, and that drive will go by in an instant. I might drive right by Amboise if I'm not careful.

I will check out the Hotel Villa Lara and the Overlord Tours. We are hoping to spend our last night on the road in Honfleur. I remember sipping wine at the harbor and thinking about the painters who used that town as a canvas. At least that's what I think I remember. I had a lot of wine.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

((H))

Has anyone seen the Bayeux tapestry? I've seen it on some of the 1000 things to see in one's lifetime lists. Is it worth recommending to the maitai's??? DH and I didn't get much into this area, darn it.

Have a great trip. Am looking forward to your usual fun TR!

"Has anyone seen the Bayeux tapestry?"

TD, That is one of our reasons for going back. We saw the tapestry in 1998. It really was a highlight of our trip. Looking forward to seeing that guy with the arrow stuck in his eye again.

((H))

Valencay is one of my favorite places to visit. Tallyrand lived, entertained, and decorated the chateau. The grounds are magnificent and vast. The chateau is gorgeous inside with most of the original furnishings. An audio guide is included with the tour and it is filled with fascinating information. On weekends mini-dramas are presented with costumed characters; the dialogue is in French but it is easy to follow even if you do not speak the language. Be sure to attend the kitchen presentation because complimentary wine is distributed.

Peacocks roam the grounds; flowers abound; there is even a small farm with chickens, goats, sheep, and other animals. Deer are kept in a separate enclosure. There is a maze, a lovely trail that leads through the grounds past the caves. You can follow in the footsteps of the Spanish Princes who were "imprisoned" at Valencay.

The town of Valencay is small but filled with interesting shops, bakeries, and more banks and ATMs than most small towns. Parking is free. There is a huge supermarche near the chateau. We always buy picnic supplies and eat at the picnic grounds at the chateau.

Tallyrand's tomb is at the local church; it is free.

The chateau is never crowded - I suppose because it is not as well-publicized and is a little farther away. It is clearly signposted from Chambord and Chevrny and maybe a 20 minute drive from either.

The maze at Valençay is a great place to lose someone if you want to escape. Just ask my Mrs. :)

TDudette, I've seen the Bayeux tapestry a half a dozen times - love it! The first time you encounter it, you're stunned, because it's not what you'd think of as a "tapestry." It's a long (230 feet!), thin, embroidered piece of cloth on which the story of the Norman Conquest unfolds, leading up to the Battle of Hastings. You get (at least I do) completely sucked into looking at the details. It's housed in a dark room with the tapestry lit up so you can really see the minutiae. Quite something!

"The maze at Valençay is a great place to lose someone..."

I better not tell Tracy. Dorothy, Valençay sounds (and looks great). It is now on the "for sure" list.

Agree SC. The Bayeux Tapestry is an amazing experience.

((H))

Great! Maybe you'll show my wife the way out of the maze when you're there.

The mention of Fontevraud reminded me of this place I stayed ages ago:

http://www.domaine-de-mestre.com/cha...de-charme.html

It was lovely. We had dinner there one night, and everything we ate came from the farm (which isn't a big deal now, but it was 20 years ago!) except for the wine, which came from the next-door neighbor.

I agree with adding Loches (you know, since you're immune to chateaux overload and all ;-)) - I thought it really stood out from the others, just different.

Sounds like a great trip - enjoy the planning!

The graffiti that's been carved into the walls over the centuries in the fortress at Loches was my favorite part of that visit.

Geez, I just posted this on the wrong thread. Tracy is right...I am getting old.

We stayed at Chateau du Pray about 14 years ago and really liked it, but we were hoping to find something in the Amboise area close enough to walk to restaurants (we do like our vin rouge at dinner, and we follow those zero tolerance laws). I know Amboise is very touristy, but, what the hell, we're tourists, too, and it looks like the most central base for our first few days there (I am open to other spots, however).

Chateau de la Fleuray looked nice, but it seems like you need to drive into Amboise for dinner, unless you ate at the hotel every night (or we just flip to see who is the designated driver). If nothing in town, a countryside setting for two "refined" couples might have to work for us.

Our last night I think we will stay in Saumur or Angers after a day of touring the chateaus (and Chinon) in that area. We head out for Mont St Michel the next morning. If someone has a suggestion in those two spots, it would be appreciated, too.

We just booked two rooms at Le Chateau de Bellefontaine in Bayeux, so the trip is shaping up nicely. Thanks again for all the suggestions, and, of course, I am sure I will have more.

((H))

Hi, Tom.

Check out Le Choiseul and the Lion d'Or in Amboise. I like Amboise, even though it's gotten amazingly crowded over the years. And it's perfectly located for visiting that part of the Loire.

I think you'll like the Bellefontaine. Our room there was gigantic, the rose garden was delightful, and having cocktails out front in the evenings was a pleasure. And even though it's only a five-minute walk into town, you feel as though you're in the heart of the countryside, with cows lowing nearby and a lovely gurgling stream.

Tom, I love your "what the hell, we're tourists too" attitude. I'm with StCirq as being someone who likes Amboise despite its touristy reputation. The best restaurant there is called l'Epicerie and it's right across from the château. If you don't find what youre looking for in Amboise I've stayed a few times at a château about 5 minutes drive from Amboise. It's also a wine growing estate (they'll sell you their wine) and is run by a wonderful young couple who took over the business from one of their parents. It's called the Château de Pintray:

http://www.chateau-de-pintray.com/

They do breakfast but not dinner. We just bought stuff from markets and had dinner either on their patio or in the dining room and they have a refrigerator and other utensils you can use.

I loved sitting with the owners father drinking wine as he showed me all the artifacts he collected from the grounds, dating from neolithic to Roman times right through the Napoleonic era.

Add Villandry to your list---in the fall the kitchen garden was beautiful. Also,you might check out www.le-vieux-manor.com in Amboise. It was a great place to stay in town and the breakfast was wonderful. It might be more than you want to spend for a room but the two "maisons" might work if you split it. Love the place and the town.

I'm with everyone who enjoys be a tourist and going to touristy places!

I first went to Amboise in 1974, when I was chaperoning student groups to Paris and the Loire. At the time, there was a small patisserie right at the foot of the cobblestone lane leading up to the château. I got chatting with the owner, Mme. Boulot, and stopped in to visit her on each subsequent student trip (there were about 8 of them, I think). It's now (at least last time I was there) a much bigger operation, and I believe l'Epicerie is owned and operated by the same people. Whether or not it's still operated by the Boulot family, I have no idea, but l 'Epicerie is a GREAT place!

PS: the link above should be www.le-vieux-manoir.com

Ooops! I just realized it as Mme Bigeaux, not Boulot.

A timing question. We are planning to stay a night in Angers and then move on to Mont Saint Michel the next day and then on to Bayeux for two. Since it is a tad over 2 1/2 hours on the first leg, and about an hour and a half on the second leg, would it just make sense to stop at Mont St Michel, take the tour and then drive on to Bayeux and spend three nights there instead of a one night stay over at MSM? Thanks.

((H))

St Cirq - sure it's not "Bigot"? I have a "hilarious" picture of my dad standing under a big sign saying Bigot in what I think is the place you're talking about :)

I've stayed overnight twice at MSM and IMO that is the best time to experience the Mont, after the crowds have left and it is illuminated and magical and you can stroll the main street, narrow lanes and ramparts and feel like you have the place to yourself. The hotels are pricey and the food there is average at best but it is a great experience.

Once you leave Angers you could visit someplace near MSM on your way there, such as Fougères or Dinan, and then arrive at MSM in the late afternoon/early evening. Do your abbey tour first thing the next morning before the crowds arrive and then get out of there and on to Bayeux.

One thing to keep in mind is that starting April 28th there will be a new shuttle system in place at MSM to take visitors from the mainland to the island. Here is info about the new shuttle service:

http://accueilmontsaintmichel.fr/english/index.html

maitai

Lezzee: so, yeah, suppose you leave Angers at 9, that has you arriving MSM ca 11:30. With lunch on the Mont and a couple of hours to wander, you will leave by say, 3 p.m. So yes, you could make Bayeux by late afternoon. Although I liked seeing MSM in the late afternoon and early evening, your schedule doesn't really accommodate this, so I would definitely vote in favour of the 3 nights in Bayeux as there is much to do there and in the vicinity, as you might remember from previous trips.

oops, I just saw French Mystique's post on the new shuttle system. Good grief, so they finally are implementing that thing. Well, that might change things a bit, as you might need more time to get to and from the Mont.

Well, gwan, in French it would be pronounced Bee-goh, so I don't think there would be a problem.

Same meaning, different pronunciation.