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ldematte5028 May 4th, 2024 07:10 AM

Andalucia - 9 day itinerary - help please
 
Hello,
My husband and I (very active, mid-50s) are traveling from Newark NJ to Malaga arriving at 7:30am, Friday Sept 13th. We fly out of Malaga first thing Sunday Sept 22nd.This is our first trip to Spain, so we're hoping to see a lot, while leaving a little time to relax as well.
Here's a preliminary itinerary. Would be very appreciative of your thoughts and suggestions!

Day 1: Arrive Malaga; Train to Seville, hoping to arrive early afternoon. Seville Cathedral and La Giralda Tower.
Day 2: Alcazar. Flamenco
Day 3: Palacio de las Duenas
Day 4: Early train to Cordoba. Mezquita, Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, Jewish Quarter.
Day 5: Early train to Granada. The Alhambra. Bus/train to Malaga in the evening.
Day 6: Malaga
Day 7: El Cominito Del Rey
Day 8: Day trip to Nerja
Day 9: Malaga
Day 10: Early flight to Newark

I welcome your help with this itinerary!
Thank you so much.



cdnyul May 4th, 2024 09:26 AM

Tell us about the relaxation part.

ldematte5028 May 4th, 2024 10:11 AM

Thank you for your reply!
By relaxation I mean spending time having tapas and drinks, leisurely strolling neighborhoods, maybe even a little pool time.
We don't mind go-go-go some days, but not all of the days!
I hope that is more helpful.

As a slight alternative to our itinerary, we are also considering traveling from Cordoba to Malaga and making The Alhambra / Granada a daytrip from Malaga.

danon May 4th, 2024 11:16 AM

Seems very rushed..but it is your choice.. Make sure you have tickets for Alhambra, Mesquita…
just a reminder: the temperature in Andalusia is usually 90+ at that time of the year.

KarenWoo May 4th, 2024 01:17 PM

It seems like a very rushed trip. And you don't have a lot of time for relaxation, except perhaps on the afternoon of day 2 and day 3. And that's if everything goes according to plan. I wouldn't count on doing a lot on your arrival day. You will be exhausted from jetlag and the heat.

Day 5, IMO, would not be an enjoyable day. Very rushed. First you have to check out of your hotel in Cordoba, get to the train station, and then take the train to Granada. Find a place to store your luggage. Get to the Alhambra. You shouldn't rush through the Alhambra. The Alhambra is magnificent and should be savored. Take your time. Then you have to get to bus or train station, take that to Malaga, then check into your hotel in Malaga. Find dinner somewhere. I would spend at least one night in Granada. It's a lovely city, very interesting. I would drop the daytrip to Nerja.

I know it sounds corny but I would stop and smell the roses. You are young and will have many more trips to Spain.


ldematte5028 May 4th, 2024 01:45 PM

Thank you so very much for your suggestions thus far. I truly appreciate all the advice.

Would it be better if on Day 5 we took the train to Malaga and checked into our hotel, spending the day at our leisure there.
Then on Day 6 took a daytrip to Grenada?

Should we replace the day in Nerja with some time in Mijas?


KarenWoo May 4th, 2024 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by ldematte5028 (Post 17559692)
Thank you so very much for your suggestions thus far. I truly appreciate all the advice.

Would it be better if on Day 5 we took the train to Malaga and checked into our hotel, spending the day at our leisure there.
Then on Day 6 took a daytrip to Grenada?

Should we replace the day in Nerja with some time in Mijas?

I haven't been to Nerja or Mijas. The reason I suggested not going to Nerja is because I think it makes your trip too hectic, and you would be better off staying in Malaga. Daytrips can be tiring.

Regarding visiting Granada for a day from Malaga, you can certainly do that if that's what you want. It is 1.5 hours one way, so 3 hours roundtrip. We really like Malaga but personally, if it were my trip, I would spend a night or two in Granada (we spent 2 nights in Granada), which is a much more important city than Malaga.

I understand that you are trying to see as much as possible, but your trip is too hectic for me. But I am also older, in my early 70's. I was in my late 60's when we visited Andalucia, and I would not have chosen your itinerary. You are visiting 6 destinations in 9 days. You are constantly on the go, and it will be very hot, too.

FrEsDe May 4th, 2024 03:13 PM

I am winter resident of Sevilla, lived in Malaga & Cordoba, familiar with everything on your list except Caminito del Rey. Some useful info: 1) Alsa bus runs a direct bus from Malaga Airport to Sevilla. 2) my neighbor who is familiar with Caminito del Rey said avoid rainy day & very hot days. 3) In September, Cordoba&Sevilla can easily get up to 100F, much too hot for outdoor sightseeing by 1pm, no American style cold-air blasting air con anywhere, does not cool off until AFTER midnight. You need hotel with air con and might have to wrap up sightseeing by 1pm. 4) Need to book Sevilla's Real Alcazar tix weeks in advance, and Granada's Alhambra tix MONTHS in advance. Bad idea to book Sevilla Catedral tix for your arrival day because you might miss your entry time window. 5) Book all your train tix in advance because they might sell out. 6) In my opinion, Malaga is least interesting & worth less than a day, beautiful Cordoba needs 1 loooong full day but 2 days are better because there are many beautiful patios & churches to see (Mezquita with audio guide alone took me 2 hours), Granada historic center+Alhambra take1 full day but worth staying extra day to visit Albaicin and see Alhambra lit up at night, Sevilla's must-see sights need 2 full days. Nerja (the town) is not a must-see, I assume you want to visit the caves. I would drop Nerja & use only the final day for Malaga.

KarenWoo May 4th, 2024 06:27 PM

I do have to respectfully disagree with FrEsDe about Malaga being worth less than a day. We walked to the top of the Alcazaba; the uphill path was beautiful with lush greenery, beautiful flowers, remnants of patios and gateways, and stunning views of the Mediterranean, and a small Nasrid palace at the top. We also walked to the top of the Castillo. The Malaga Cathedral is beautiful. There are many art museums; we visited the Picasso Museum. There is the Atarazanas Market, seaside promenade, etc. However, I do agree with FrEsDe that Cordoba and Granada are worth 2 nights.

FrEsDe May 5th, 2024 02:13 AM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17559777)
We walked to the top of the Alcazaba; the uphill path was beautiful with lush greenery, beautiful flowers, remnants of patios and gateways, and stunning views of the Mediterranean, and a small Nasrid palace at the top. We also walked to the top of the Castillo. The Malaga Cathedral is beautiful. There are many art museums; we visited the Picasso Museum.

Those are precisely the Malaga sights that will take no more than 1 day to visit as they are all within 5 min walk from each other. Catedral & Picasso Museum are both small. All art museums in Malaga's center are quite small. Malaga beach season is still in full swing in September with big beach crowd, long seaside promenade is fully exposed-to-the-sun .

ldematte5028 May 5th, 2024 05:29 AM

Thank you again for all of your suggestions and useful information! I am going to pre-book all of our tickets, including the train when available, as soon as our itinerary is set. Definitely will stay in AC hotels!! We are from a part of the U.S. that is very hot and humid during our summers as well, so the temps may slow us a bit, but it's nothing we're not accustomed to. I wish we had more time, but unfortunately we both still work and my husband has a difficult time taking more than 1 week at a time, so I'm already pushing it!

Regarding day1: I'm going to cross my fingers that travel works as planned and book the Cathedral for mid-afternoon.

Based on your advice, I've revised the itinerary a bit - adding an overnight in Granada and removing one day in Malaga (trip to Nerja). I am leaving our last day in Malaga free, so we can truly relax, stroll, maybe spend some time on the beach, before returning home. Please let me know if you feel this is an indulgence that we will regret. I am strongly considering spending an extra night in Cordoba instead. Many thanks!!

Day 1: Arrive Malaga; Train to Seville, hoping to arrive early afternoon. Seville Cathedral and La Giralda Tower.

Day 2: Alcazar. Flamenco
Day 3: Palacio de las Duenas
Day 4: Early train to Cordoba. Mezquita, Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos.
Day 5: Jewish Quarter. Mid day train to Granada.
Day 6: The Alhambra. Bus/train to Malaga in the evening.
Day 7: Malaga
Day 8: El Cominito Del Rey - weather dependent
Day 9: Malaga
Day 10: Early flight to Newark


Kiddo May 5th, 2024 11:03 AM

As an fyi, our recent flight to Malaga (3 weeks ago) was delayed leaving Toronto due to a technical issue which resulted in our missing our connection in Paris. We were rebooked on the next flight which was 4 hours later and which departed 1 hour late so expecting to arrive in Malaga at lunchtime became instead dinner time. Fortunately we had nothing planned as for us Malaga was a 'soft' landing but then we're older (67 and 73). I'm mentioning this as how I believe your day 1 is overly optimistic. Also unbeknownst to us luggage on flights arriving in Malaga from non-EU countries is apparently segregated in a separate room beside the baggage carousels so if you don't find your luggage on the appropriate carousel check there. A kind traveler at the baggage carousel advised us of this. Despite numerous overseas flights, this was the first time experiencing this.

ekscrunchy May 5th, 2024 11:15 AM

Good that you eliminated Nerja.
I could never pack in what you are planning on your first day....do you sleep really well on the overseas flight? You can always pack in the Sevilla sights you've planned on the next day, I guess.

Tickets are booked, yes??? Otherwise it would have been better to fly into Malaga and home from Sevilla or Granada....any chance of altering flight schedule?

Jewish quarter in Cordoba is miniscule....synagogue can be viewed in 15 minutes.

Restaurants of any interest?

Are hotels booked?


Madam397 May 5th, 2024 11:32 AM

It has been quite some time since I've been there but I recall that Granada had much more to offer than the Alhambra which is pretty spectacular. We had to spend an extra day there on our our trip as we were driving and there was torrential rain and several of the roads in and out were closed because of hazardous conditions, so you never know.

FrEsDe May 5th, 2024 12:10 PM

I lived the last 3 months in Cordoba. Jewish Quarter is not that big but quite interesting. In addition to spectacular Palacio de Viana (far more interesting/beautiful than Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos), there are dozens of beautiful patios to visit in tourist area (especially San Basilio). Mezquita ticket also covers 10 magnificent churches which can be visited within 7 days -- 4 churches in tourist area are of exceptional beauty: San Andres/San Pablo/San Francisco/San Augustin.

ldematte5028 May 5th, 2024 02:01 PM

Again, thank you for all of your replies and advice!

Kiddo- many thanks for the heads up on non-EU luggage. You may have saved me quite a bit of time and worry!

I agree that day 1 is quite optimistic, but figure that if I must push back the Cathedral to Day 2 or 3 because of travel delays, I can do so. When traveling to Europe, we've always planned a full day 1, with an early bedtime. I think the adrenaline keeps us going until we can no longer stand! We have also found this helps us get on European time, as we wake on day 2 fully refreshed and ready to go.

I thought about flying out of Seville, but we're able to fly non-stop out of Malaga. This is important to my husband as he needs to be in office on the day after our return to the U.S, so we can't risk connection issues / have an extended layover.

We are foodies and can't wait for your suggestions on restaurants to try. We'd enjoy a variety of finer dining, hole in the wall, tapas and drinks, etc. I'd love your suggestions!

Likewise for hotels. We generally prefer more boutique type hotels, but would certainly consider larger hotels as well. We're willing to spend more for a unique experience, but we're also fine with nicer, comfortable hotels with great service and location. In hotel breakfast is not a must.

I will start to book hotels and make restaurant reservations as soon as I finalize the itinerary.

Thank you so much!


KarenWoo May 5th, 2024 07:05 PM

This is the hotel we stayed at in Cordoba, and it was our favorite hotel:
Las Casas de la Juderia
It consists of 5 homes attached together with courtyards. Very convenient location. A few minutes walk from the Mezquita and Alcazar.

Soho Malaga located in Barrio Soho, very close to the pedestrianized calle Marques de Larios. Small boutique hotel (28 rooms).

Apartamentos Suites Santa Cruz in Seville. Main office and reception desk is located in Plaza de Dona Elvira. Our apartment is located at Calle Pimienta. Pedestrian only area. Convenient location in Barrio Santa Cruz, but it is very busy and crowded with tourists. A few minutes walk from the Cathedral and Alcazar.

Our hotel in Granada has closed.

If you have the time when you are in Granada, I highly recommend having a night time tour of the Alhambra in addition to the daytime tour. It's very magical at night; quiet; fewer tourists, and you can hear the running water.

In Seville, if you have the time, make sure you visit Plaza de Espagna. It's stunning with its tile work, bridges, architecture. And visit the Triana neighborhood including the market in Triana.

One of our favorite restaurants is La Azotea in Barrio Santa Cruz in Seville.

In Cordoba, we had a delicious dinner at Regadera, one of the best of our trip. You need to make reservations.

And in Granada our favorite restaurant is El Trillo Restaurante.

danon May 5th, 2024 07:27 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17560077)
This is the hotel we stayed at in Cordoba, and it was our favorite hotel:
Las Casas de la Juderia
It consists of 5 homes attached together with courtyards. Very convenient location. A few minutes walk from the Mezquita and Alcazar.

Soho Malaga located in Barrio Soho, very close to the pedestrianized calle Marques de Larios. Small boutique hotel (28 rooms).

Apartamentos Suites Santa Cruz in Seville. Main office and reception desk is located in Plaza de Dona Elvira. Our apartment is located at Calle Pimienta. Pedestrian only area. Convenient location in Barrio Santa Cruz, but it is very busy and crowded with tourists. A few minutes walk from the Cathedral and Alcazar.

Our hotel in Granada has closed.

If you have the time when you are in Granada, I highly recommend having a night time tour of the Alhambra in addition to the daytime tour. It's very magical at night; quiet; fewer tourists, and you can hear the running water.

In Seville, if you have the time, make sure you visit Plaza de Espagna. It's stunning with its tile work, bridges, architecture. And visit the Triana neighborhood including the market in Triana.

One of our favorite restaurants is La Azotea in Barrio Santa Cruz in Seville.

In Cordoba, we had a delicious dinner at Regadera, one of the best of our trip. You need to make reservations.

And in Granada our favorite restaurant is El Trillo Restaurante.

A night time visit to Alhambra is really special . I agree.
I don’t know if it still the case but when I visited Andalusia the first time (end of August !) everything came to a standstill in the afternoon because of the heat . It didn’t bother me that much, I was thirty!


basingstoke2 May 5th, 2024 08:56 PM

Why not fly into Seville and save that first day train trip and time worry. You can still fly out of Malaga. TP Ait Portugal had non stops both ways using Newark.

KarenWoo May 6th, 2024 05:42 AM


Originally Posted by basingstoke2 (Post 17560098)
Why not fly into Seville and save that first day train trip and time worry. You can still fly out of Malaga. TP Ait Portugal had non stops both ways using Newark.

This is an excellent idea!

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2024 05:42 AM

That's what I thought, about the flights....backtrackiing is not good.

I made a mistake when I said the Jewish Quarter was small...did not realize that it encompasses Palacio de Viana, etc. That was a wonderful visit (Palacio de Viana). I have to look at my Cordoba map and see where the boundaries are..I was imagining the Jewish quarter to be just the area around the Synagogue! And I spent five nights there! Shameful!!

Maribel May 6th, 2024 05:56 AM

The Palacio de Viana is not within the Jewish Quarter.

The flight from Newark to SVQ, Sevilla, isn't non-stop. It makes a stop in Lisbon. There are currently no non-stops between the US and Seville.

The seasonal flight from Málaga to Newark is non-stop on United.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2024 06:07 AM

I was confused about that comment about the Jewish, but maybe I read it wrong!
Gracias, Maribel!!
Honestly, five days in Cordoba and there was so much I missed; I never even saw the Roman Bridge!

So there IS a flight to Malaga from Newark, but probably not in March..

To LdiMatte:

You maybe have seen this, but if not, there is a ton of food discussion with photos on this very long, recent trip report:
Now that I think back, the reason I missed so much of Cordoba was that I was busy eating!




https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...adrid-1720867/

Maribel May 6th, 2024 06:18 AM

ekscrunchy,
Not in March. It's seasonal.

From my Málaga notes:
United continues this summer season with its non stop flights from Malaga to Newark. These departures will be daily, on board a Boeing 757-200 aircraft, between May 3 and September 24, 2024.

The Boeing 757-200 aircraft that operates this route has a total of 169 seats: 16 lie-flat seats in United Polaris business class and 153 in economy class, including 45 Economy Plus seats with legroom and more personal space.United is the only US carrier operating in Málaga.

Passenger numbers continue to soar at Málaga airport with almost 21 million passengers on flights so far this year.

It experienced the highest passenger traffic growth of all the major Spanish airports last month, with an increase of more than 25% and maintains top three slot in Spain’s airport with record-breaking 1,416,974 passengers in February (and my husband and I could certainly feel that in March)

This growth has allowed Málaga to consolidate its position as the third most important airport in Spain for passenger numbers - surpassing Gran Canaria once again this winter. The market for abroad connections grew by 31%.

The 3 carriers brining in the most passengers to Málaga airport: Ryanair, Vueling and Easy Jet, Ryanair being the leader.

ldematte5028 May 6th, 2024 07:40 AM

Thank you all for so generously taking your time to help me with this planning! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it, as trying to see as much as possible in 9 days is overwhelming.

Originally I had us flying into Seville, but the shortest flight (10 hours) had us with a very quick layover in Munich - I don't want to start our vacation with this stress. So flying roundtrip Newark-Malaga was really my next best alternative. This is also why we're traveling in late September rather than October. As Maribel mentioned, the direct service ends on September 24. UGH!
Once my husband and I retire (just a few years now!!) we certainly plan on travelling at a more leisurely pace. I haven't even arrived yet, and I've already made a pact with a friend that we'll visit for over a month together once we're no longer working!

I think we will now spend 3 nights Seville (3 days), 2 nights Cordoba (1 1/2 days), 1 or 2 nights Granada (2 days) and 2 or 3 nights Malaga (2 days with one being El Comintio Del Rey). I know it's not nearly enough time!

I am going to book the Alhambra (both day & night tours) right away. Pre-booking the remaining sights by next week.

KarenWoo - many thanks for the wonderful hotel & restaurant suggestions. I will be booking shortly.

ekscrunchy- I am so enjoying your adventures through your trip report. Now that my itinerary is nearly set, I will go back & read for your favorites. Aah, to travel at that pace and truly enjoy. I am a bit envious, but my time will come. This trip is just to give us a small taste of Southern Spain.

Thanks to everyone! If you have additional advice / suggestions, please know that they are so appreciated!

Maribel May 6th, 2024 08:26 AM

I do see a potential problem with your first day, arrival in Málaga and train to Sevilla if your plane is delayed, but let's hope it isn't.

Your 3 nights in Seville will actually reap 2 full days of sightseeing, a really short time, so you should plan to start early and end late, if wanting to see some of the wonderful sights that await you in Seville. I think you'll fall in love with Sevilla and want to return.

2 nights in Córdoba, given the short train ride on the AVANT from Sevilla's Santa Justa station, will give you 1 and 1/2 days for the Mezquita, other monuments/museums in the small Judería, the patios of the San Basilio quarter (that you can tour on your own), possibly the Renaissance Palacio de Viana, with its 12 interconnecting patios, which is more impressive, imo, than the San Basilio quarter patios. The tiny synagogue takes very little time to see. Make sure to venture to the illuminated Roman bridge at night for a stroll.

If you do want to do the amazing evening sound and light night tour at the Cathedral-Mosque, "The Soul of Córdoba", on your first or second night, you will need to book in advance here. It isn't given every night.

I would urge you to spend 2 nights in Granada, as there is much more to explore in the city than the Alhambra---there's the Cathedral and its adjacent Royal Chapel, various lavish Baroque churches, the evocative former Arab quarter of the Albaicín for a strenuous walking tour and its viewpoint at sunset, the Mirador de San Nicolás with those stunning full frontal views of the Alhambra at dusk. Many visitors enjoy having dinner around this square and a popular and lovely spot to do so is the Carmen de Abén Humeya, that many Fodorites have enjoyed.

I would only stay for 2 nights in Málaga, as I would focus the majority of my time on the beauties of the Al-Andalus triangle---Sevilla, Córdoba, Granada. But, that will give you just one full day, weather cooperating, for the Caminto del Rey.
How important is the Caminito del Rey to you? One must secure tickets well in advance here.

I would definitely not plan to visit Nerja or Mijas, which have become over the years, very heavily Anglo-speaking ex pat communities. (I've been to both, and when I'm there I honestly don't feel like I'm in classic Andalucía, given the foreign residents, but that´s just my personal opinion).

KarenWoo has given you her favorite hotel in Córdoba on the quieter side of the tourist-filled Judería, well located for a short visit. It you can't find availability there, consider the Balcón de Córdoba, also in the Judería, or just outside, within very easy walking distance, on Córdoba`s main commercial square, Plaza de las Tendillas, the H10 Palacio de la Colmera, where we happily stayed in late March. The NH Collection Amistad, next to the Museo Taurino is another option.

In Sevilla you may want to look at hotels in the less tourist trodden El Arenal quarter (Vincci Molviedro, Vincci La Rápida, Casas de El Arenal) or the hotels near to the Plaza de la Encarnación (H10 Casa de la Plata, Cetina) or even near Reyes Católicos (Gravina 51 ), all 3 locations easily walkable to all the major sights yet not within the high season tourist tsunami. And please book your Cathedral and your Alcázar tickets in advance to avoid standing in long lines in the heat and sun. Yes, it can still be quite hot in Sevilla in late September!

In Granada I would consider the Eurostars Puerta Real or the Eurostars Áurea Cathedral for convenience, if within budget, or slightly removed, set back, from the busy, busy Carrera del Darro, the Casa 1800 for more of a typical Andalusian feel.

In Málaga we recently stayed at the Molina Lario, which couldn't have a more central location. Ditto to the AC Málaga Palacio if you have Marriot Bonvoy points to spend (otherwise it's pricey for a room with sit out terrace with water views). And there's the Soho Boutique group with several properties and the new Only You. And the Hotel Larios or the Room Mate Valeria. All are very handily located.


FrEsDe May 6th, 2024 08:41 AM

Cordoba's Palacio de Viana needs to be pre-booked because this fabulous palace is only visit-able in small guided tour (around a dozen people), tix regularly sell out. When I spontaneously dropped in in January & February this year (during my 3 month stay), both dates were sold out. I had to pre-book a tix online for another date to finally get to visit this palace.

Maribel May 6th, 2024 08:44 AM

No, I didn't have a guided tour. One can visit the 12 ground floor patios without pre-booking, as I have twice, and I did not take a guided tour of the Palace upper rooms. I only did a self-tour of the ground floor this March. The ground floor rooms and patios can be viewed w/o a guided tour. It is true that the guided tour of the Palace upper floor can sell out. I wasn't interested in the guided tour of the upper Palace rooms.

FrEsDe May 6th, 2024 08:50 AM


Originally Posted by Maribel (Post 17560254)
The ground floor rooms and patios can be viewed w/o a guided tour. It is true that the guided tour of the Palace upper floor can sell out.

You are correct, visitors are free to walk around the ground floor & patios. The guided tour is only for the sumptuous & interesting rooms on the upper level, absolutely worth joining, lasts about an hour. Those lavishly-decorated upper-level rooms are unlike any palace I had ever visited in Andalucia.

Maribel May 6th, 2024 08:51 AM

Yes, I had seen them on a prior visit, so just opted for a self tour of downstairs.

Maribel May 6th, 2024 09:02 AM

Our favorite dining in Sevilla for casual-

Azotea, 3 locations
Tradevo Centro
Disparate in the Alameda de Hércules area, very creative
Alfarería 21, Casa Montalbán, beautiful tiled line dining rooms in Triana
Taberna Zurbarán, tucked away in a lovely square near las Setas, Plaza de la Encarnación
La Barra de Cañabota, Cervecería Salmedina and La Barra de Inchausti, spectacular seafood straight from the Cádiz province piers
Casa Morales in El Arenal, an inimitable time warp in a very good way
Petit Comité in El Arenal (that both Fodorite Lrice and I love!)

For a classic "piripi" sandwich, Bodeguita Antonio Romero (3 locations in El Arenal)
For a "pringá" sandwich, Bodeguita Romero, also in El Arenal

For churros & chocolate, Bar Comercio and La Centuria, both near the Plaza de la Encarnación and las Setas.

For Córdoba there is a loooong back and forth with ekscrunchy and me about our favorites. I wouldn't miss Casa el Piso for their traditional fare and Garum 2.0 for salmorejo and updated classics.

Maribel May 6th, 2024 11:49 AM

For Granada,
Churros and chocolate at Cafetería Alhambra on the Plaza Bib-Rambla.

For breakfast Moorish treats, Pastelería López Mezquita at Reyes Católicos 39.

Fine wines and tapas at Taberna la Tana at Placita del Agua, a tiny square off Calle Rosario. Best wine selection in town and complimentary freshly made tapa with each drink order. Hugely popular so go early in the evening when it opens at 8:30 pm.
In the same area. la Malvasía for wines and tapas on Rosario.

Near the cathedral, Saint Germain, at Postigo Velutti 4.

Again, one of the atmospheric, very memorable restaurants for evening dining with full frontal illuminated views of the Alhambra in the Albaicín near the Mirador (viewpoint) of San Nicolás. El Trillo or Abén Humeya or Mirador de Morayma, among several.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2024 02:24 PM

OOOH..Pastelieria Lopez Mesquita in Granada.....essential and great for take-on-plane pastel Moruna! (Yet about the millionth tip from Maribel that has enhanced my visits to Spain to a degree that is almost unfathomable!

I did not book ahead for Palacio Viana in March, and there were few people there. I did not take a guided tour and was not aware that there was one available.

I just booked flights to Catania via Munich....have not flown LUFTHANSA in decades......

Madrid is such an easy airport to transfer through, although it often requires lots of walking. I always get thrill when I first spy those colored arches overhead...I almost feel as if I am back where I belong!!


Malaga and then Gran Canaria???? I am shocked by this!!!

ldematte5028 May 7th, 2024 03:04 AM

Maribel - wow! the advice you've provided is incredible. I am overwhelmed with the support I've gotten on this forum - like having my own personal travel guide. Thank you!!

I am adding specifically the patios of the San Basilio quarter to our agenda while in Cordoba, as well as the light and sound tour. You even provided links!! I had Balcon de Cordoba and the Solo Boutique hotel in Malaga on my short list of hotel options. It's good to get affirmation that these are good choices. Again THANK YOU for taking your time to make so many suggestions for neighborhoods, hotels and restaurants. Churros and chocolate?! Yum, who knew?? Fortunately, I will have no problem getting my steps in to combat the calories!

I am going to begin making reservations later this evening after work. I am already getting excited!
Thank you, thank you!




Maribel May 7th, 2024 03:31 AM

Hi,
I just posted this on ekscrunchy's looooong thread, if you can squeeze this in; otherwise you can see the 5 or 6 open patios in the San Basilio quarter, which sits just beyond Córdoba's Alcázar.

"For anyone Córdoba-bound who would like to see the famous patios outside of the Patio Festival going on now this May and who has the extra time, the 16th century Renaissance Palacio de Viana, with its 12 inter-connecting patios is delightful, well worth seeking out. It sits on the Plaza Don Gome in the Santa Marina quarter, outside of the historic quarter of the Judería, about a 20-minute walk.

The downstairs visit in non-guided, does not have to be reserved in advance, and entrance costs 8 euros. Along with the patios and the gardens one can view the stables and the kitchen.
The lavish upstairs palace rooms, filled with tapestries, porcelain, paintings, and with carved artesonado ceilings can be visited via a 40-minute guided tour only, in Spanish. Non-Spanish speakers receive an explanatory pamphlet in English or French. This visit sometimes does sell out, as it's capacity controlled.
The combo ticket for the downstairs patios plus upstairs guided visit costs 12 euros.
Opening hours vary from month to month. During the patio festival it is open daily and on some Mondays in March, April and May. At other times, it closes on Mondays".

https://www.palaciodeviana.com

ldematte5028 May 7th, 2024 10:52 AM

Hi Maribel,
My husband is an avid gardener and is going to love this! I have added it to our 2nd day in Cordoba (a Tuesday).
How many times can I say THANK YOU!!!

Maribel May 7th, 2024 11:10 AM

You're very welcome! I think you'll really enjoy the Palacio de Viana gardens and patios.

ekscrunchy May 8th, 2024 05:14 AM

Maribel, I've never been to JAYLU in Sevilla but its always been on mind.
What is your opinion, for me?
I do not that there prices per kg for shellfish are higher than those at ANTONIO but I'm thinking that that is to the the city location while ANTONIO is closer to the coast.


Maribel May 8th, 2024 05:16 AM

Think of Jaylu as being Sevilla's equivalent of Madrid's Rafa, which I know we both love.

Kiddo May 8th, 2024 07:00 AM

In Cordoba we enjoyed dinner at Casa Pepe de La Juderia so much so at the end of dinner we made a reservation for their rooftop terrace for our last night in Cordoba. We also had a tasty dinner at Restaurante Patio de la Juderia which has a flamenco show every night though we didn't stay for it as we had prebooked tickets for the Soul of Cordoba nighttime tour of at the Mezquita.
In Seville we enjoyed Maribel's excellent recommendation of Barra Baja Restaurante. We sat at the counter and enjoyed delicious food as we watched the chefs at work. We also enjoyed dinner at La Malvaloca which is located next to Las Setas. Being a bit 'tapased out' on our last night in Spain, we both craved pasta and headed to Il Vesuvio Restaurante which is located down a quiet alley with outside tables. We shared a caprese salad which was excellent as were the pasta dishes we ordered.


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