An Irish Experience
 

Two Weeks in IRELAND Travelling at Our Own Pace:
Vehicle: Rented Motorhome
Accommodation: Same

"How do you recognise an Irishman in a carwash?"
- "He's the one on the motorbike" -

The Irish seem to have a cheerful disregard for political correctness and even take a perverse delight in universal jokes made against them. So much so, they even print selections on linen tea-towels which they sell at fancy prices in souvenir shops.........I know because I bought a dozen or so on our recent trip in May this year!

The informal Irish friendliness, the magnificent countryside like a patchwork quilt divided by a hotpotch of stone walls, and the salty wind blowing off the Irish Sea made us fall in love with Ireland at first sight. Here is our story, not in as many words as I would like - that would keep me typing indefinitely, but seen through some the photos we took.

THE ROUTE TO IRELAND
Flying our national carrier to LHR because that's how we are able to acquire Business Class seats through an accumulation of Airmiles, was excellent in every way. Smooth flight, lovely food and a comfortable bed.
I was just as excited to be back in London en route, but there was no time to hang about.
We took the tube into the city hopping off the Picadilly Line at Russell Square and taking a leisurely walk down Marchmont street towards Euston Station.
Passing the highly recommended fish 'n chips restaurant, The North Sea , we stopped for a photo and were soon having a nice hot cup of tea at the station. Our train was still 2 hours away but being too early has great advantages like : - calm nerves, a sense of slowness in finding the toilettes, getting the emailed booking number changed into an actual ticket (this was an unforseen problem because the machine would not take a credit card without a chip) so queueing up was necessary and fraught with off-hand staff who eventually and relunctantly processed our tickets. They were purchased on line at very low prices and I was told by the second counter clerk ' doing this transaction for you is going to stuff up my computer' - (The first clerk behind the counter refused and sent me back to the machine) See why you need lots of spare time!!

ON OUR WAY TO MANCHESTER
We are starting our Ireland trip with 3 days in a little town called Rawtenstall just outside of Manchester with good friends who have lived in South Africa.
It was wonderful to spend time eating real English food and watching a Burnley football match on TV with all their family members.
We were taken to a wonderful seafood restaurant to have traditional fish 'n chips with a difference, curry sauce, and also a large factoryshop where I found the most fabulously comfortable shoes and the ones that I would wear nearly everyday for the rest of our holiday.


IRELAND HERE WE COME
Early Sunday morning our friends took us to Manchester airport for the AerLingus flight to Dublin.
Upon arrival we were met by the Campervan Company and in no time at all were heading along the M1 Toll Road to Belfast. Our trusty Garmin guiding us every inch of the way!
We spotted a huge Sainsbury's along the roadside and stopped for a good hour to load up on groceries. The new and unrecognisable products had me mesmorized and it was hard not to buy too much.
We phoned ahead and had an overnight place at Drumaheglis just outside Ballymoney, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. The trip there took most of the day because of shopping and we arrived late afternoon on a bright windless sunny day. What a start to our holiday!

BELFAST
The next day we drove to Ballymena to take the train to Belfast. Peter needed to get to Jessops where he had ordered a special lense. The little train ride was lovely.
After the photoshop we walked back to Victoria Road staion stopping at a typical Irish Pub, McConnell's, for a delicious lunch of non other than Irish Stew! A quick whip around Boot's Chemist and we were done.

Back at Drumaheglis we wondered around the lovely setting alogside the River Bann.
That night we feasted on crusty bread, olives, spicy chicken legs, a Somerset Organic Brie cheese & lots of wine.

PHOTOS:http://tinyurl.com/mh36ty

Coming up - Along the Coastline

Looking forward to more!

Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to read all of your report. I think I remember your trip to UK by motorhome last year?

Definitely bookmarking this one :)

Thank you both - Yes, in 2008 we tackled a roundtrip of the UK going as far as the Isle of Mull and other places in Scotland.
Heres the next lot but I must mention here the dates of our journey which I neglected to put in my first post:
TRIP STARTED: SUNDAY 10th May 2009

10th & 11th spent at Drumaheglis Ballymoney along A26

A TRIP TO THE ANTRIM COAST
After collecting our motorhome from the station at Ballymena we decided to drive around some of the Antrim coastline.
First Port of Call was Ballycastle and the site of the Marconi Memorial. It's a great mound of rock in the middle of a carpark where Guglielmo Marconi first seriously tested wireless telegraphy making his historic transmission between here and Rathlin Island 8 miles off the coast towards Scotland's Mull of Kintyre.
The seagulls and other birds have made good use of it!

Unfortunately with the lateness of the day we didn't attempt the Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge but went on to White Park Bay.
It was beautiful in the late afternoon sun.
Somewhere we missed the last turn-off to the Giant's Causeway and by the time we got to Port Rush realised our mistake.
It was a pity but from the pictures I've seen it is nothing like the other end of the Giants Causeway which we saw on the Isle of Staffa last year. Now this IS something no-one should miss! Spectacluar is putting it mildly.
Well, as they say, 'save something for next time'.

Just after White Park Bay the scenery becomes quite spectacular as the road winds around the ruins of Dunseverick Castle. Trying to keep well off the narrow road in a wide motorhome is one thing we were soon to encounter time and time again!

Passing through Port Rush, we saw row upon row of holiday park homes. How lucky we thought we were not to be spending our holiday cheek to jowl with neighbors in front, behind and to the side of us.
When we arrived in Portstewart there was a motorbike rally in progress and the street were lined with cycles of all descriptions from Harley's to Sidecars.
We walked the entire length of the Victorian seafront and back without finding one decent restaurant. As 9 o'Clock approached we settled on dinner from a fish 'n chip shop near to where we had parked the motorhome. One of the worst meals I've ever eaten in my life never mind in Ireland!
I guess we are not used to more greasy batter than fish.

The evening was really nice out near the tiny harbour. Young men were enjoying themselves plunging off the end of the pier although the notice stated "No swimming or diving permitted"!
The sunset was like liquid gold floating on top of the sea but, it was time to head back to Drumaheglis for the night.

Here are more photos:

http://tinyurl.com/ksb6zr

to be continued....

Hi Dot,

I'm really enjoying your report, and I must say, Peter is quite the photographer. Can't wait for the next installment!

Gina

Thanks so much Gina! I am working hard at getting this up as quickly as possible but as one Fodorite put it in a nutshell " Trip Reports are a labour of love"! How right they were.
Peter will be pleased you think his photos have some merit!

LEAVING NORTHERN IRELAND - Tuesday 12th May

There's something to be said about waking to the sound of birds twittering in the trees above your window. Peering into the forest next to our motorhome there is a flurry of activity. A dog on a lead is being taken for his morning constitutionals down a windy path, sunlight striking his master at angles through the trees.
With such good weather we decide to put a load of washing into the machine while we have some breakfast.

Looking at our large fold-out map of Ireland we plot a course for the day. We are ready to hit the road but the tumble drier is taking for ever and our clothes are still damp. Too bad, we can't wait any longer and hit the A26 to Coleraine.
Here we join the A2 and refuel at the tiny village of Ballykelly. I dash into the local bakery and buy hot crispy bread for lunch.
Soon I can see the control tower of Derry City Airport (Londonderry) as we pass. Following the River Foyle we cross into The Republic of Ireland at Lifford/Strobane.
Lifford has a famous old courthouse, so if you have the time to go there it may be fun:
http://www.ramelton.net/Trips/LiffordCourthouse.htm

THE REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
Turning onto the N15 at Ballybofey we are en-route to Donegal through the Barnesmore Gap. On our right are the Blue Stack Mountains. The road signs have changed from 'miles' to kilometres.

Interested in Stone Circles? This is one at Beltany we unfortunately did not get to, but have it down for 'next time'!
http://www.ancientireland.org/beltany/index.html

County Donegal has 11 Blue Flag beaches starting at Bundoran -we drive through it and soon are passing through Leitrim which is 16km away from Fermanagh in Northern Ireland.

PICNIC LUNCH ON THE LAKE
Pulling off onto a sideroad just after passing through Sligo we had a quick lunch on the banks of Lake Gill. Here swans glided past as we enjoyed the lovely crusty bread and different cheeses I had gone overboard with at Sainsbury's.
A road sign way back told us we were entering Yeats Country -
On Lake Gill you can visit Yeats's Lake Isle of Innesfree.

WRONG TURNING
Somehow we ended up driving miles out of our way via the town of Boyle before cutting across narrow country lanes to arrive at our campsite in Knock. The sun was still high in the sky and we even had time to hang out the wet washing.

Tomorrow we explore Achill Island.....here are photos in the meantime:


http://tinyurl.com/mxhz4h

Thanks for your report and pictures. I'm enjoying your trip.

You are always so supportive and I appreciate it very much!
Lots more to report on tomorrow...........

Glad to see you 'reporting in'. Enjoying the report and pix, but impatiantly HAVE to ask -- Did you find your flowers and/or seeds???

Bob

REMOTE AND DRAMATIC ACHILL ISLAND - Wednesday 13th May

Our long drive yesterday to Knock was rewarded by entering an imaculate caravan park and the offer to take up any space we fancied. While Peter went out to take photographs in the late afternoon sun I prepared our dinner.
I grilled a rack of Irish lamb, boiled some young Irish potatoes and added a salad on the side.
My ever complimentary husband said it looked so good he just had to take a photo or two!



This morning we are all set for the drive to Achill Island and set off at about 8am stopping in Newport alongside the river for breakfast. There are old fishing boats around in various stages of repair and it is lovely and peaceful while we eat our kippers and toast.

Passing through Mulrany on the mainland we notice a large hotel called The Park Inn and Bistro. Newport Bay is full of what looks like oyster beds or fish farms.
Achill is just 24km by 18km, it is joined to the mailand by a bridge built in 1888. Once across Achill Sound the stark landscape appears to be vast and lonely. Every now and then on a hillside or tiny village a brand new house appears on it's neat plinth of cement. Nearly all sport a red door and a facade of local stonework on the front of the house. Some houses have outlined red windows and roof, and mostly painted stark white.
We even see a brand new Chinese restaurant un-opened at this stage - or 'you know who' would be dashing inside!
It was nice to see an effort being made to mend some of the old original stone houses which are much more in keeping with the remotness and landscape.
Suddenly we come upon hundreds of policemen and women, police vehicles, and buses. Stopping to ask what is happening we are told there is a State funeral being held for one of their policemen. We sit in a side road for about 30 minutes to let the procession go past.

The weather dulls and occasionally it rains a little. We take the scenic Atlantic Drive along steep mountain slopes which look down on coves of white sandy beaches.
Our first siting of peat bogs appears as we criss-cross the island.

On the way back we go to the area called the Deserted Village. More than 70 roofless stone houses are all that remain of an 1837 village. It is high up on the slope of a hill and one needs good binoculars if you are not inclined to do the walk up.

INTERESTING FACT
On the western side of Achill Island is Corrymore House, a former hotel built by Capt. Charles Boycott who was a land agent for Lord Erne. His harsh tactics made him extremely unpopular and as no-one would work for him or even speak to him, his surname entered the English language as a word meaning to ostricise or shun. So there is the history about 'boycotting' something!

Our return to Knock takes us via Westport and we go into a cafe for a cappucino. In Claremorris we pull over to take photos of several lifelike bronze statues on the sidewalk.
They are amazing.

KNOCK THE HOLY TOWN
This is a small shrine town with an international airport, visited by over 1 million pilgrims from Britain, Europe and direct transatlantic flights from New York and Boston. The season lasts from the last Sunday in April to second Sunday in October.
Small shops line a main street and everyone sells religious paraphanalia. Here is where you can choose a rosery in cheap plastic pearls or an expensive one in faux Swarovski Crystals.
I decide to buy my Catholic sister-in-law a Virgin Mary holy water holder and a small photo frame embelished with roses.

We take a peek inside the old church which is quite lovely.
The main Basilica seemed deserted at the time of our visit.
www.knockshrine.ie;

Here are the photos:


http://tinyurl.com/mx4uy5

Next, I will relate our trip to Galway and paying homage to my fathers memory.........

Itallian_Chauffer - Hi, I am still coming to our experiences in the Burren. Thanks for asking, I am glad you are following our trip around lovely Ireland!

THE QUIET VILLAGE OF CONG - Thursday 14th
Our route today is down the N17 to Claremorris then cutting across country on the R331 to Ballinrobe where buy fresh bread rolls before heading to Cong on the R345.

Cong is as picturesque as a postcard and still trades heavily on the Quiet Man film. I found a gift shop selling childrens handmade toys and my new grandson will have a unique wooden puzzle to play with in a year or two.

Finding our way along the shores of Lough Corrib, Ireland's largest lake, we pull off the James Joyce Country Drive for a spot of lunch. What would one do without bread and cheese topped off with enormous green olives?? The weather isn't that good and distant rain showers make photgraphy difficult. We can just make out the islands in the middle of the lake.

GALWAY BAY
There is no Caravan Club site near enough to Galway so have phoned the Tourist Office in Galway for help and are directed to a place in Salthill. This is what I would call a suburb of Galway city but at one stage in the past must have stood out as a little coastal village. Now Salthill is swallowed up by the big city allowing one to walk along the beach path from Salthill and arrive at the pubs and restaurants in Galway within 20 minutes.

We are met by a casual manager who after taking our money allows us to park anywhere we fancy.
Seeing the wide expanse of lawn facing Galway Bay we have no desire to set up anywhere else for the night but right here! Wow, the view over the bay is gorgeous and Peter leaves me to start preparations for tonights supper.
A strong wind is blowing and we admire a young couple setting up tent near us for their sheer tenacity in getting it pegged down before the whole thing took off over Galway Bay!

FRIDAY 15th May
My great wish was to take a ferry to the Isle of Aran called Inishmore but too many things were against such a trip.
First the weather was lousy. It's drizzling heavily and the wind is freezing. We find out the two ferry companies, Aran Island Ferries - www.aranislandferries.com and Aran Direct - www.aran.direct.com - only operate from one place: the port of Ros a'Mhil or in English, Rossaveal, on the Connemara coast, and it is an entire day trip lasting from 10am to 5pm. On the island one can hire bikes or walk. In nice sunny weather this may be great but today was not one of those days. This reminded me not to plan or set your heart on anything the weather has control over!

Instead we drive as far as Clifden and encounter the famous Connemara Ponies wandering on the misty hillsides.
Circling the fragmented coastline via Roundstone we travel past bays and inlets and a series of alluring villages. The landscape is one of hilly grassland, bogs, rushing streams, few houses and quite lonely. A real 'get away from it all' place!
Near Oughterard on the N59 we see the Golf Course which looks beautifully green, before passing through Rosscahill and Moycullen.

This morning we were to early for the craft village at Spiddal so turn off onto a country road that takes us through Keeagh and back to Spiddal. This time we are too late and all have shut up shop!
I stock up at a supermarket in Barna and find Irish potatoes at long last. So far on offer have been potatoes from Cyprus, Israel & England.

Some photos:http://tinyurl.com/qxlecl

Leaving Galway to relive the past.....

still enjoying your trip and pictures.

A question: if one comes into a camp area with a rig such as yours and if you want to stay more than one night, what happens when you go out for the day? Do you get to keep your same site for the next night or when you return, do you have to take what isn't already staked by someone who arrived when yo were out?

Hi Irishface - Well it depends. It depends on whether or not you are staying at an exclusive members only or members & everyone else, campsite. In England you were told to leave deck chairs or something propped up against your stand, but in addition, the office had 'inked' in your arrival and subsequent choice of parking space.
In Ireland everything is different - we were sort of 'out of season' and the camp officials said to park anywhere. At places like Salthill ( which was independant)for instance, if your space was taken you were expected to move elsewhere. We were lucky - we spent 2 nights in the same place everywhere!

I would not go the motorhome route unless I had joined The Caravan Club in England. Their sites are of a very high standard but unfortunately are few and far between in Ireland.

EAVING GALWAY – Saturday 16th May

The weather has turned for the worst and has rained all night. This morning it’s damp and still drizzling. The beautiful Galway Bay is not blue any longer but a choppy grey expanse of water disappearing into a swath of misty rain.
Even so, yesterdays bit of sun was all we needed for a fond memory of this part of Ireland.
Just before dinner last night a call came from home, “Where are you now?”
So I said “We are in Galway Bay – I mean right on the edge of the water!” Reply:”What’s Galway Bay?”
“Galway Bay, Galway Bay! you know the song?” - “No, what song?”
I am now holding the phone like a mike and start singing-

‘If you ever go across the sea to Ireland,
Then maybe at the closing of the day
You will sit and watch the moon rise over Claddagh,
And watch the sun go down on Galway Bay’

Shrieks of laughter follow…………………..I’m not surprised as I have a very bad singing voice!

By 8am we are passing the Spanish Arch , the only remaining gate of the walls that surrounded the ancient city. It was across the Corrib River, on the other side from Galway that the original Irish settlement of Claddagh was situated outside the city walls.
There’s little trace of the original cobblestone streets in the areas current modest housing but it was the fishing village which gave it’s name to the Claddagh Ring.
This was a traditional ring with two hands holding a heart that wears a crown.
Earlier I was given a small one by a woman wrapping my souvenirs. It was made as a brooch and can be pinned onto a blouse.

DESTINATION: THE BURREN – Meaning ‘ Great Rock’
Rain or no rain, we are heading to the Burren to try and find some rare flowers.
Before we get there our route takes us to Kinvarra. It is so pretty down at the harbour we park right beside the 200year old restored granary. Now rescued from it’s previous derelict state, it houses a smart coffee bar and a craft shop selling seaweed based products. Unfortunately they are still shut so we can’t go in but decide to have a spot of breakfast while the next tour bus loaded with French people arrives. The rain is making them dash around frantically taking photos and within 10 minutes they’re all gone.

We take a walk alongside the quay and have a look at what I think, probably wrong, is a Galway Hooker. The highlight of the year is the annual ‘gathering of the boats’ in August when these old boats race against each other.

POULNABRONE
After driving through Ballyvaughan we turn onto the R480 which takes us into the Burren and to Ireland’s best known, most visited, and most –photographed megalithic burial tomb, the Poulnabrone portal dolmen(“pool of the sorrows”) with it’s huge capstone.
We are lucky as the rain holds off and there are only a handful of people about.
It is roped off for protection and we walk over the great limestone rocks with their ‘grykes’. Down these crannies are the hiding place of the rare a strikingly blue ‘Gentian Violet’. We find a number of blue flowers but don’t think any of them are IT. There are also little orchids and the Burren Fern.
A Canadian couple ask us to take a photo of them & they inturn takes one for us. We are the only two couples still walking around the tomb.

We call in at the visitors centre at the stonewalled farmstead of Caherconnell. This Caher has yielded up a lot of useful archaelogical evidence of Bronze Age life.
We want to see more of the botanical holy ground of the Burren so carry on the road until the junction with the R476 and ruin of Leamaneh Castle.

THE CLIFFS OF MOHER - that weren’t

We stop at Doolin at park at the harbour. The waves are rough but the little ferryboat comes and goes as we have a bowl of hot Irish potatoe soup with the last of the breadrolls.
When we arrive at the cliffs the weather is really terrible. People are clinging to umbrellas and raincoats while they walk up the pathway.
This may be what everyone comes to see but today we decide maybe on another trip to Ireland but not this time. Great pity but I don’t think we would have enjoyed the view in the freezing cold wind and rain.

At a little village called Ennistimor we stop at the bakery and I meet Ungelbert in his bright floral trousers. His accent is sort of German but I think he is Austrian or Swiss.
His pastries are lovely and I go overboard again!

The next large town of Ennis on the N85 we are able to get our cellphones changed from 02 Northern Ireland to 02 Southern Ireland. We have found out after buying airtime that the one does not correspond with the other – darn nuisance actually! Had to get new numbers as well.

YES, IT ‘S A LONG WAY TO TIPPERARY!
Our camp for tonight is just out of Tipperary in the Glen of Aherlow. This stunningly beautiful area is made for hiking and marked trails of different lengths are visible everywhere. From the hillside one can get a nice view of Galtee mountains.

The campsite is five star and we are given a friendly and warm welcome by the gentleman running the place. We are left to choose any space that is not occupied and we settle in for the night.

Here are some photos:
http://tinyurl.com/m2o5dv

A BLAST FROM THE PAST – Sunday 17th May

Well, it’s exactly one week since we picked up our motorhome from Dublin airport!
We have certainly put some miles on the clock and feel as if we have been in here for months instead of just one mere week. Ireland is definitely growing on us!

In all my months of planning and reading every post that came up on the board titled ‘Ireland’, I had one specific desire above all others and that was to pay tribute to my father’s memory by visiting the Flying Boat Museum in Foynes.
In the months before our trip I had been in contact by email with Margaret O’Shaughnessy, curator of the museum. I told her I had some old photos of a Flying Boat on one of it’s trips to South Africa. My father was an engineer for BOAC in Kenya where I was born, and came to work in South Africa after the war. Margaret and I agreed to meet when I came to Ireland.

When we left the very green Glen of Aherlow in fairly heavy drizzle we had visions of coming back for another night but as things happened, we did not.
By the time we got to the small medieval village of Askeaton where the River Deel flows into the Shannon (just across the water is Shannon Airport) we were ready for a breakfast of hot croissants and parked facing the river in the parking lot of a Health Centre. On the opposite bank was an old ruined Franciscan Priory.

FOYNES – THE HOME OF IRISH COFFEE

Yes, it was at Foynes during the flying boat days that Irish Coffee – a mix of coffee and whiskey topped with whipped cream – was invented by barman Joe Sheridan, who wanted to cheer up a group of cold, travel-weary passengers who had been forced back by bad weather.

I have never heard of anyone on this Fodors board ever mentioning the town of Foynes situated on the River Shannon. The main attraction of course is the 20 year old Flying Boat Museum. I am posting a link for anyone interested in the history of Foynes and the museum:
www.flyingboatmuseum.com

This place is truly amazing and after a good wander round taking photos we met with Margaret and I handed over several photos taken just before the flying boats were discontinued here in Africa. The history of these magnificent old airplanes is barely noted in the African route they flew. I am hoping that this might be looked into and a whole new aspect added to the museums collection and history.
Margaret told us that new donations of memorabilia and information is regularly forthcoming even after all these years.

In the photos I am posting I have purposely shown the inside of the craft so you can see the austere seating and enormous cockpit. There weren’t many passengers either so they were able to dine at tables with starched white linen cloths, silver cutlery and china plates!

When leaving the rain had stopped enough for us to get some photos of the original terminal building where the museum is housed and of the River Shannon where the flying boats landed. For me, this sentimental visit was definitely the highlight of our entire trip and far exceeded my expectations.

Travelling along the N69 we pass Glin Castle following the drive along the wooded shoreline:
www.glincastle.com
Stopping in Tarbet we are met by sirens and a fire engine. A car seems to be on fire and the owner has apparantly taken the ferry across to Kilrush. They get the doors open and hose down everything inside but find the smoke is coming from the engine. We don’t stay to see what happened next!

DECISIONS DESCISIONS!
The N69 takes us to Tralee . From here we must decide whether we are going to motor around Dingle or drive around the Ring of Kerry. I am dubious about Dingle and the famous Slea Head Drive because of the width of the motorhome – it takes both of us to reverse it, one watching (me) the rear to see how much further to backup! It would be impossible to do this on a narrow road for any distance so we decide it’s going to be Kerry.
We stock up with more provisions in Kilorgan and make for Glenross Caravan & Camping Park at Glenbeigh a small picturesque village. There is a stunning view across Rossbeigh Strand, a superb Blue Flag beach which stretches for over 2 miles with views across to the Dingle Mountains.

Here are the photos: http://tinyurl.com/mhb9eo

Love your report and enjoy your pictures. What a great mix of landscapes and little details! I am always sorry when I get to the end of a set of pictures. Wish I could see more--a sign of a great editing job!

A DAY’S DRIVE AROUND THE RING OF KERRY - Monday 18th May

Another early start as we intend to drive the entire length of the 180km (112 miles) of the Ring of Kerry and reach a new campsite in Killarney by tonight.
If we were to drive non-stop it would take 4 hours but nobody in their right mind would even consider such a wasted trip.

We leave the very nice Caravan Club site of Glenross , situated in Glenbeigh and join the N70 which is the main ring road around Kerry. I doubt whether many people ever venture off this well trodden path to explore further inland.
This morning the sky is allowing patchy sunlight through the clouds but the horizon doesn’t look too promising.
Our first stop for photos is at the pretty little Bay of Kells.

When we arrive in Portmagee we have a lovely breakfast of real kippers (yes, the rest of the ones I bought at Sainsbury’s and have been deep frozen since!). The car ferry ploughs back and forth several times to Valentia Island in the hour we are there and Peter notices through his telephoto-lense the wording “ God Met Ons” on the side of the ferry. This was a real surprise as that is a language very familiar to us, namely Afrikaans which is widely spoken in South Africa. I am guessing it is also written exactly the same in Dutch or Flemmish. It means “God with Us”.
Valentia’s name comes from the Irish name for the channel between the island and the mainland, Beale Inse, and has nothing to do with Spain!

We left the main road when we called at Portmagee and carry on the ‘the scenic route’ around St Finan’s Bay with views towards Great Skellig & Little Skellig.
Just past Castle Cove you can look down onto Staigue Fort. This well preserved
example of a prehistoric stone fortress dating from 1500BC, consists of a circular dry stone wall 35metres (115ft) in diameter in varying thickness from 1.5 – 4 mtetres(5-13ft).
It is on private land and the owner requests a small donation.

In Sneem we stop at the Bakery and I buy two lovely lamb pies for dinner tonight. We don’t bother to ask for directions to “the Pyramids”. To find it there is a signpost next to the Catholic Church directing one to ‘The way The Fairies Went’. All you will find are small beehive huts inlaid with stained-glass panels and look pretty ancient. In fact they were built in 1990.
The road goes through Parknasilla where there is a most amusing pub with stark white walls. A very clever artist has sketched various characters on the walls with a saying next to each one.
This part of The Ring of Kerry is the most sheltered and the lush subtropical growth of wild rhododendrons, azaeleas, camellias and bamboo is evident everywhere.

KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK
At Kenmare we turn off to drive through this fantastic place but unfortunately for photography, it is raining. Thick mist obscures the lakes and surrounds so we carry on to our campsite called White Bridge just out of Killarney.
It is going on 6pm when we drive through the centre of Killarney town and I notice a shop open that sells sweaters (jerseys to us). Peter has been looking for more sweaters for some time but has not found any he likes. In this little shop he is spoilt for choice. We eventually leave with 2 beautiful chunky ones and hope they can fit in the suitcase!

WHITE BRIDGE CAMPSITE
It takes some time before we eventually locate the chap running the place but eventually go into his office to pay up. He is a charming Irishman with the ‘gift of the gab’ and it is an hour later before we literally stagger out of there to park the motor home for the night! Our ears are buzzing and we now know all about Irish history, Irish politics, Irish religion and have definitely learnt that ‘real Irish’ is not spoken unless it is interjected with the ‘F’ word often – very often! After the initial shock of the first 50 ‘F’s I realized this is just ffffffffflipping normal! He disappears and we never see the jolly fellow again .


The rain keeps pouring but at least we get to do some laundry for a couple of euros. After dinner we lay the big map out again and make plans for the next move. We have 3 days left and I’m getting nervous we won’t be able to see everything we have set our hearts on.
Here are the photos: http://tinyurl.com/nmuak8

Next: Kilkenny

Irishface - I am putting up a lot more photos with the next section of our trip - The Rock of Cashel & Kilkenny.

THE ROCK OF CASHEL - Tuesday 19th May

At last sunshine this morning!
We take the N72 via the town of Tathmore, Mallow and Michaelstown. From there the N8 takes us through to Cashel.

Because we are driving a motor home we are allowed to take up parking space reserved for coaches and have no difficulty finding a space in the parking lot. We have bright sunshine and although there are huge clouds about it is hot enough not to wear a jacket or sweater.
We take the guided tour which lasts an hour, have a good wander around and take lots of photos in the good weather. The tour is very good and our guide gave some interesting anecdotes including the one about Johnny Cash’s visit to the Rock of Cashel. I wish I could remember the name of the song Cash composed after surveying the valley below.

MEDIEVAL KILKENNY
We drive through the outskirts of Kilkenny and find our last campsite in Ireland, called Three Trees Caravan Park. This is a privately owned campsite and is the most ‘rustic’ one we have visited. We find a lovely grassy spot opposite a horse paddock. There is a mother and foal grazing peacefully and Peter takes a wander about for photos while I prepare my version of an Irish Stew for our dinner.

Wednesday 20th May
Another sunny day as we set off to take in the sights in Kilkenny. Parking a motor home in town is a problem but we struck it lucky when someone suggested we park in a hotel parking as it was free and had much larger spaces. Brilliant! We walked into town just as it started to drizzle but did not last long thank goodness.
We went to the Information Centre in Shee Alms House, Rose Inn street (www.southeastireland.com)and joined a few others waiting for a walking tour.
Our tour guide was quite an elderly gent who knew everything there is to know about Kilkenny having lived there all his life. He pointed out the shells embedded in the black marble used for paving throughout the town’s streets, which I thought were bird droppings! We wandered down the little lanes with strange names and even saw a busker who was staying in our campsite!
Lastly he took us to the beautiful little church with the most fantastic stained glass window.

We visited Kilkenny castle afterwards for about an hour and then found some lunch at a little place opposte the famous Kytler’s Inn on Kieran street. It dates back to 1324 when Dame Alice Kytler, ‘the sorceress of Kilkenny’ was accused of poisoning her four husbands, and of being a witch. The restaurant retains a medieval air with exposed beams and 14thC stonework.

That evening we met with a lady we have known through a business connection, but now have become good friends with this charming person. We all had a wonderful dinner at Langton’s before she dropped us back at our campsite. Just the perfect end to our visit to Kilkenny.

Here are the photos:
http://tinyurl.com/l64rda.

Next: Goodbye to Ireland

tod:

What a nice report and I have very much enjoyed your photographs. Thank you for taking the time to share.

Sandy

Many thanks Sandy!
I made a slight mistake with the name of the campsite calling it Three Trees, when if fact it is Tree Grove! Three Trees is a brand label for tea!
We also have 1 more campsite to go.

The finale` to our lovely holiday coming up!

ALL GOOD THINGS COME TO AN END
Thursday 21st May

Our very last day in Ireland. I feel as if I could go around the whole country just one more time to fill in the gaps. Places we would have liked to have seen but could not for one reason or another and places we really liked a lot and would like to go back to. We haven't completed our entire holdiday just yet - On arrival in Dublin tomorrow we fly to Paris for nearly 10days so I guess we don't feel too despondant yet!

ABOUT BALLYTHIS AND BALLYTHAT
This delightful guide book I took with me to Ireland explains the reason so many towns start with the word Bally - perhaps as many as 5,000 of them. The word Baile in Irish means 'town', so Ballymacabry means Town of the MacCaibre Family. Just thought you may not know.............

A NOTE ABOUT KILKENNY
I would like to add this little bit more about our visit to Kilkenny yesterday.
The place we had lunch at was called Nostalgia. It looks like a little French Cafe` with seating under a red awning. We had the special of the day which was delicious vegetable soup accompanied by a salad baguette and still further salad on the side.
As I said, Nostalgia is opposite Kytler's Inn, but forgot to mention that Kytler's is being run by the great great Granddaughter of Charles Dickens, a direct descendant.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN - KILMORE QUAY
This morning on leaving Tree Grove Campsite, decided to take the drive along the coastline towards Dublin.
My Insight Guide To Ireland has suggested a scenic drive to Waterford on the N25 in the Rosslare direction.
We pass through New Ross before turning onto a number of smaller roads, the R733 & 734 and eventually finding the little fishing village of Kilmore Quay.
There are quaint whitewashed cottages and pubs built between the dunes and the stonewalled harbour.

We drive down to the end of the road and park facing the activity of the fishing boats.
Behind us a processing plant regularly sends out a small bucketloader filled with ice and dumps it onto the grassy verge leading down to the watersedge. This delights the seagulls and they scratch around in the ever growing mound of ice for scraps of fish.

I make hot bacon rolls for brunch and while we sit looking out of the window, can just make out the Saltee Islands on the horizon. These are one of Irelands most important bird sancturies. The islands are uninhabited but in the summer around 3 million birds stop here and can be observed from local boats.
Of all the little villages I saw in Ireland, this would be the one I would love to come back to and stay for a few days.

Several people pass by our motor home with their dogs and one in particular deserves a photograph. The little pooch looks more like a baby lamb than a dog! He has a forlorn look about him but soon scampers off to his owners.


Leaving this delightful little cove of pretty thatched cottages we get onto the N11 towards Dublin.
I need to post off some more of our accumulated souvenirs to make more room in our suitcases and look out for a post office as we pass through Enniscorthy but don't see one.
Filling up with fuel in Kilpedder I get lucky and send off the last of the 6 large envelopes of "clutter".

OUR LAST CAMPSITE
The M50 took us on the outskirts of Dublin before the R128 took us to the small village of Rush which is off the M1 just north of Dublin.
This is our very last campsite and it could'nt be more wonderful! Again we have an enormous expanse of lawn overlooking the Irish Sea. It is late afternoon on this sunny Thursday. The tide seems to be quite a way out and I am hoping it will eventually be lapping at the rocks below us.

CLEAN UP AND CLEAR OUT
We have to hand back the vehicle in a presentable condition which did not mean we had to have it washed but at least pack all the crockery & cutlery neatly and of course clear out the cupboards of groceries.
My worst failing is that I cannot waste food. To me it is absolutely criminal to throw good food into the tip. What to do with all our left over unused groceries? I pluck up the courage to go and see the elderley lady in the reception. Her son runs the place.
Her response to my plight was just what I was hoping for - she wanted everything and anything I had to get rid of.
Like me, she cringes at the sight of campers ditching unused food into the tip. I suppose that's why the seagulls were lurking nearby ready for the next packet of stuff!

That evening we drove a short way to The Harbour Bar which is mainly a seafood restaurant. One young Chinese girl served the entire dining area most efficiently and we rounded off our Irish Experience with a delicious fresh 'Catch of the day'.

FAREWELL DEAR IRELAND - Friday 22nd May
Being so close to Dublin Airport, and having travelled the route the day before, we were relaxed and confident of getting to the Coach Parking on time to hand back the vehicle. Of course it was raining on and off but everything went according to plan.
We managed to motor 1,898 km around Ireland without incident!

Paris here we come!!!

Here are the last photos:
http://tinyurl.com/lkxqjr

A big thank you to all for the kind comments!

tod:

Indeed the little dog has that look of a little lamb!

Was it expensive to post back home the 6 envelopes of "clutter"?

So glad that the elderly lady was happy to take your left over groceries.

Will you be doing a trip report on Paris?

Sandy

SandyBrit - Yes I have written a Trip Report on Paris. I started it before this one on our Ireland holiday. Link:
http://tinyurl.com/ksga8v

The postage from Ireland was:
1.8grams (nearly 2 kgs)= 20.95 euros
921grams (nearly l kg) = 10.40 euros
500 grams = 4.85 euros
729 grams(Northern Ire)= 9.27 British pounds

From Paris: 2 parcels - can't find slips but everything I posted Airmail from Ireland & France arrived after I got back.

I don't think it is a cheap way of getting rid of souvenirs and gifts but it would have filled half a suitcase for sure. The total weight I posted back (at a guess) was around 10kgs. I bought the envelopes(padded) and addressed them before I left. They weighed nothing and fitted neatly into the lid of the case.

Hi all, I just stumbled onto this site and thought I could ask for some advice.

It is our 40th wedding anniversary in October and my wife and I have purchased tickets to travel from Sydney to London via Hong Kong (outward journey) and Singapore (return journey). We leave Sydney 16 October and then Hong Kong 20 October for London. We have about two weeks before boarding the plane again in London.

We have not decided what to do once we have arrived in London. We dont want to remain in London or England having spent several weeks there last year. Our thoughts are to spend 6 days in Paris and 8 days in Ireland or to spend the entire 2 weeks in Ireland. We have not been to either place before.

Reading these posts made me also think about a motorhome in Ireland - we have never done that before, I had been thinking of either B&B's or hotels.

Any thoughts?

Well Sue, you have obviously read my trip report, but I have this to add if you go the motorhome route:

We did have the experience of a motorhome trip around England last year. The motorhome itself was smaller but very easy to drive into towns and find parking.
This year we went bigger - difficult driving on narrow roads because of it's width, but oh so lovely having a permanent dining area and beds that did not have to be done & undone every day!

In England there are plentiful campsites of a high standard.
In Ireland there are exactly 7 which are offered by The Caravan Club which maintains a high standard. Unfortunately they are far apart so travelling between them takes time.
Once there of course, short sightseeing in the immediate area is easy but means a 2 or 3 day stay at each one.

If we did it all again, I would restrict our travelling to a much smaller area.
Please let me know if I can help further with anything at all.

Here is our trip through England: http://tinyurl.com/cwarzw

Oops! Sorry I see it must have been Warren that posted the message.

Great report and I love your photos! I was literally drooling over your meals! They look so gourmet. I would have been eating sandwiches and tins of beans.

maureencol many thanks for the compliments - I was very keen to try the local produce and see what I could conjour up!
Cooking is my way of relaxing so don't find it a chore.

Excellent report.
We are a family of 5 and will be in Ireland next May. Having just done NZ in a motorhome, we were wondering about doing the same in Ireland, but most posts even say to rent a small car because of the narrow roads- so we thought a motorhome would be definitely out. Encouraging to see that it worked for you.
was yours 4 or 6 berth? Any dramas on narrow roads- I don't want to be forever holding my breath, wondering if we'll squeeze thru.? Do you think it cuts down on the "charm" of Ireland?? ie do you feel you met less people?
Where would I get the company details and prices please? Would you recommend them? Is Dublin the only pickup?

I would be very grateful for any info as this is what I was after. Thanks!

ber - Thank you so much for your kind remarks! I will try my very best to answer your questions with absolute candor.
Funny thing is, we want to do NZ in a motorhome one day so when you have a moment could you please jot down a few pros & cons, name of hire company etc? Thanks!

1. Narrow Roads: These are mainly only on the outlying areas such as Achill Island but there again there are so few vehicles it didn't bother us. At certain times we tucked our mirrors in to prevent the hedge hitting them, but that was only in one very small spot whilst travelling. The busy roads
are not narrow. The roads through towns seem narrow because of vehicles parked and most times I got dropped off to shop while Peter went to turn around or find parking.
We had heard about a very narrow road in Dingle so just avoided it.

2. Vehicle size: We rented a 4 berth for the two of us.
Just as well because I used a bottom bunk for easy access to the loo during the night. The double bed top bunk was huge and my 6ft 1 husband could not reach the other side with his feet.

3. To be very honest - yes it does cut down on meeting the locals in a pub or restaurant but does not wholly cut down on the charm of Ireland. In some instances it actually enhanced the charm as we drove to places never mentioned on this board. If we had felt like driving back to the nearest town for dinner we could have enjoyed some of the nightly pub life. I definitely want to do that next time.
On this trip we were not up to it after driving, driving ,driving all day! In Galway and Rush it was quite possible to walk into town but the weather was awful so in the case of Rush, decided to drive to a restaurant as it was our last night.

4. I spent hours researching motorhome companies and in the end went with a company that seemed to be a 'go between'.
The hire went to a company in Ireland to save the very high ferry fees between UK & Ireland.
The drawback here is that you cannot leave Ireland and hop over to the UK if you got fed up with the scenery or for whatever reason. You are stuck there.

5. Our motorhome was almost brand new - just look at the starting mileage. The company that handled the deal was very efficient. The meetings on arrival & leaving were spot on.
But, we had definite disappointments which I will list for you - if we had not hired a motorhome the year before in the UK we may not have realised what we were missing out on:

a) LINEN: We expected linen for all beds. We only got 1 doublebed sheet, 4 pillows, 1 double duvet.
There were 2 of us but only received 1 bath towel. This resulted in us purchasing two more towels, another single sheet, a single duvet. (All were left with the vehicle).

b) KITCHEN EQUIPMENT: No electric kettle (or other kettle).
The cooking pots were of a poor quality and handles were loose. The frying pan & the largest pot had residure food still adhering. Most pot lids were missing.

c) CROCKERY & CULERY: No wineglasses - not even 1! All glasses were whiskey tumblers but that was OK for drinks other than beer or wine. I do understand the space is limited.

d) No cleaning equipement such as a brush and pan. You know how much grass gets carted indoors! We were also asked to leave the vehicle clean - with what??? We had to purchase these items as well.

e) FRIDGE: The door had sticky remains in the lower shelf section.

f) I have not checked whether we requested or whether it was agreed upon to supply: a TV and microwave.
We saw where the TV fitted but had been removed. I think we did request these items but will have to go through the contract again. Not much we can do about it now though!

ber, can you give me an email so I can forward the contract - then you can read the small print and costs.

Even with all these difficulties I managed very well on what I had been given but felt too much trust is left to the cleaning crew and those responsible for the equipment.
I never sent them a big moaning email - well not yet. I was hoping they would contact me and ask "Was everything OK?"
Then I would. So far all silent.
Thanks.

Forgot - Dublin is not the only pick-up because the company was situated in Waterford. The person that brought the motorhome to Dublin flew back within the hour of handing it over. The handback was also to a guy who flew in to collect it. I guess they could do this just about anywhere.

Lovely of you to provide that frank info..it's going to be tough to decide which way to do Ireland. Unlike NZ, where motorhomes-espec for a family- are probably the best way of doing things.
Will dig out info for you on NZ m.homes soon
Many thanks
Bernie

Thanks so much - I want to add that the big PRO for renting the motorhome was no packing and unpacking!
There are so many B&B's, hotels etc., around Ireland that I would love to try this route one day but will have to go with an overnight bag!

Tod- how do we reply privately on this if I want to send you the NZ info? (but not on the Irish forum)

You can send it to: [email protected]

Hey, Tod: Nice job on the TR and on the PIX. I enjoyed them very much. I noticed that your road food was in FINE form as well! Were YOU the cook? ~DrToonz