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We stayed three nights in Ravello at the Garden Hotel, right on the cliff a couple of thousand feet above the Mediterranean. Great gardens, medieval lanes, many hikes in the area. Around 3 pm the little town empties as the day-trippers go home and it's delightful. We did an easy, slow hike from Ravello to Amalfi one afternoon, then returned by bus up to Ravello in the evening. Having an evening drink at the hotel bar terrace, with lights of all the villages below us and the sun setting...paradise. IMHO, of course.
When anyone is planning a visit to the AC by car or bus, it's really essential to understand the crowd flow: Morning--masses flow from Sorrento down the cliff road, stopping along different points, and the buses ultimately stop at Amalfi. Afternoon--masses flow on the buses back up the coast from Amalfi and other places toward Sorrento. God forbid that you miss the last bus back from Amalfi. And, as Mr. Cod so eloquently describes, the crowded buses deserve Dante's last circle in hell. Years ago we were staying in Sorrento, wanted a day trip down the coast, got on the bus, which then became more and more packed, annoying couple with a cold behind us moaning and whining about their cold...We scrapped the bus, got off, and instead hopped the ferry to Naples for a great day trip. Do not take these crowded buses! |
Blueyedcod,
I've said several times in this thread that taking a ferry has got to be a better option than the awful option of taking the bus with luggage on the Amalfi coast in July. Cntrary to your assertion, I had certainly heard of the Salerno ferry and had pointed it to people many times prior to this as a way many went to avoid the traffic jams on the coast. Do you just look at my screen name and decide you are going to find something at fault with what I've posted because I posted it? Do you get so angry at the sight of my screen name you can't actually read the post? As I already posted -- are you able to see this? -- people driving from Milan to Salerno would need to also drop off their rental car during rental office hours. Without any stop sor food, gas, etc, it is more than an 8 hour drive from Milan to Salerno. With typical breaks, it is a 10 hour drive. Drama enough for you? What time are you suggesting travelers leave Milan to catch what ferry leaving the same day from Salerno so they can get to their hotel in Positano by what hour? Why do you object to giving transoceanic travelers landing in Rome or Naples --- many of whom will have had airport layovers enroute -- a detailed and accurate picture of how much longer they will be traveling if they go from there to Positano using the Salerno ferry -- or tell them you've decided for them they shouldn't mind doing it and you'll poo-poo their concerns if they raise them? It's not your trip or your body. You can't predict a picture perfect weather day for them or a pleasant ferry journey. As for Dukey1, sounds like he's leaning toward Sicily -- not because he is deterred by complications or discomforts in July on the Amalfi coast, but because of the attractions of Sicily. |
Goodness me, Sandralist, calm down. As I said, I can't imagine anyone driving from Milan in the first place - if they had an ounce of common sense they would factor in the distance, rental car issues and so on - so it just won't happen. If people are even contemplating doing this then they probably shouldn't travel.
Yes I have read your posts - You haven't said the ferry is a good option at all - <That's not my idea of a breeze, especially after a transatlantic flight, whether it be non-stop or one involving plane changes. That's a lot of travel for one day> Realistically - people coming in transatlantic with plane changes will most likely not continue on in one hit to the Amalfi Coast and I have *never* suggested they should - you keep deflecting back to this. What for? My options - and they are options - are simply for those already there and looking for an alternative to the one-way crush from Sorrento. By the way - and this may come as a surprise to you - not everyone who reads these forums come from the USA/Canada. Some even come from the UK and for them, getting to the Amalfi Coast in one hit won't be a drama. |
>>>Fly into Naples, hire a car and driver if you're flush, for most of us, take a bus into town and the Circumvesuviano to Sorrento<<<
If you flew into Naples you would take the Curreri bus from the airport (10€ and about 10 runs per day) to Sorrento (it doesn't go into Naples and only makes a couple of stops such as Pompeii). There's no reason to go into Naples or take the Circumvesuviana. >>>It's actually *not* complicated to get there at all if you travel during ferry season - train to Salerno, connect with ferry to Amalfi or Positano. Can't see anything complicated about that.<<< It's also not complicated to take the train to Salerno and catch the bus to Amalfi either. The buses are much less crowded Salerno/Amalfi than Sorrento/Amalfi. The route is very scenic. Also, more bus service than ferry service and you don't have to traipse to the port (you catch the bus at the Salerno train station). |
>>>Just to clarify re tour buses - they don't go to Positano because they are not permitted down those little streets - they can't fit.<<<
Tour buses don't, but there is a small bus (or was) operated by Gioia Flavia. >>>the awful option of taking the bus with luggage on the Amalfi coast in July.<<< Plenty of people do and luggage on those buses is no different than on any long distance bus or tour bus. Your luggage is stored underneath. >>>Some even come from the UK and for them, getting to the Amalfi Coast in one hit won't be a drama.<<< I haven't done it from Milan, but certainly have from FCO. Not a drama at all. Used to be a bus (Buonotourist) from FCO to Salerno, but I'm not sure it still runs. |
kybourbon - yes you are correct on all points - and there is also the Marozzi bus from Tiburtina to Sorrento in one hop, as well as the HoHo (aka Coast to Coast) bus from Sorrento along the Amalfi Coast in season. Although this is essentially a sightseeing bus they do take luggage - and their stops are limited - and the trip is much more expensive than the SITA service - and it gets stuck in exactly the same traffic - but it is an option if Sorrento to the AC is the only way and the sight of the queue to infinity for the SITA bus is offputting.
Your point about the bus from Salerno to Amalfi and (with a change in Amalfi) onward to Positano is also very relevant especially for off-season when ferries don't run. This northbound direction is also very scenic. |
This thread began with Dukey asking about traveling from Milan or Verona to the Amalfi coast, and joking about the difficultties of the travel -- and it's only at this point blueeyedcod offers the opinion it would crazy to try to do it one day?
It may not have been blueeyedcod, but there have been hudreds of posts on the Fodor's forum urging North Americans to go to the Amalfi directly upon landing at FCO, even if they have had plane changes. They are urged to either go by train or bus or ferry, or to rebook their flights to fly into Naples to avoid the travel hassles of landing at FCO and heading from their to the Amalfi. I am understandably angry at your persistent interventions in this thread to minimize the difficulties -- but thank goodness you now are being realistic about the complications for people who aren't already in Europe when they begin their trip to the Amalfi. kybourbon, who never met a bus she didn't like, never will acknowledge the fact that thousands upon thousands of travelers find the Amafli coast bus rides so nauseating they will do anything to avoid them. Many people take the ferry not to have the breeze in their hair but to avoid vomiting as part of their picturesque introduction to the Amalfi coast. As I said before, several times, the ferry from Salerno appears to be the best option for thousands of travelers compared to what is otherwise a misery-inducing experience getting to the Amalfi. But for travelers not already in Europe, many perfectly nice, travel-savvy, reasonable people will look at all the options for getting to Positano and decide either to go elsewhere or to rearrange their trip to minimize the hassles --- so please quit insulting them and everybody's intellgence. |
I agree with Sandra. On three occasions I have travelled to Naples airport on long overseas flight with 1-2 connections. The Salerno option never appealed to me for getting on to my final destination on the AC. The only way I would ever do it when arriving after long flight with a plane change is by private driver holding a sign with my name on it right outside luggage claim. If traveling to the AC from within Italy or within Europe only then would I consider the Salerno option. I also agree that any way you slice it the AC is difficult to get to. Worth it to me but not easy.
Agree too that Ravello is magical. |
<I am understandably angry at your persistent interventions in this thread to minimize the difficulties -- but thank goodness you now are being realistic about the complications for people who aren't already in Europe when they begin their trip to the Amalfi>
What? I *never* mentioned *anything* about how travellers were to get to Italy in the first place. You complicated it all - not me. I simply said 'getting to the AC from Salerno is easy'. The agenda was provided and complicated by your good self. Nice to know you have come around to the ferry (claps hands) - however... <As I said before, several times, the ferry from Salerno appears to be the best option for thousands of travelers compared to what is otherwise a misery-inducing experience getting to the Amalfi> Ummm...no you didn't. You diminished attempts to say this is a good way to travel (see your previous posts above). <But for travelers not already in Europe, many perfectly nice, travel-savvy, reasonable people will look at all the options for getting to Positano and decide either to go elsewhere or to rearrange their trip to minimize the hassles --- so please quit insulting them and everybody's intellgence.> Again - who is insulting anyone - in fact I would say you are insulting the traveller who can and will get to Positano and other AC destinations because they are smart enough to investigate the options and realistic enough to factor in their own travel energy, schedules and times. I am done here. Feel free to keep going with your agenda. |
Stepping away from the discussion of if and how to visit the AC, let me say a word about Greek temples in southern Italy. If you like that kind of thing (we do), here are some of our favorites:
Paestum: I mentioned this already, above. Agrigento: several outstanding temples, constructed on a long ridge below the site of the ancient city (now the modern old town of Agrigento). This was an innovation of Agrigento as a colony. Many of the Greek colonies continued to modify the temple styles and placements of their founding cities on the Greek mainland. Segesta: a solitary magnificent temple, an hour south of Palermo. Selinunte: we have not visited this site, but friends have, and they were wowed. If you are flying to Sicily from any of the northern cities you mentioned, you can fly into Catania on the east or Palermo on the west. |
>>>kybourbon, who never met a bus she didn't like, never will acknowledge the fact that thousands upon thousands of travelers find the Amafli coast bus rides so nauseating they will do anything to avoid them. Many people take the ferry not to have the breeze in their hair but to avoid vomiting as part of their picturesque introduction to the Amalfi coast.<<<
Just because you get nauseous on any bus (you've stated it multiple times on these boards), doesn't mean everyone does. Many people find the ferries/hydrofoils much more nauseating than buses. Seems you have done none of what is being discussed (bus or ferry). I've taken the train from FCO to Naples and Circumvesuviana on to Sorrento. I've also taken the hydrofoil from Naples to Capri and on to Sorrento. I've taken the train to Salerno and the bus from that end to Amalfi. I've also been to the ferry port at Salerno and onward. Yes, buses can be crowded in summer, but ferries can be full (or totally booked) too. I've never seen anyone get sick on the Amalfi buses, but have on the hydrofoil. YMMV. Another option from Naples is the Positano Shuttle bus. They also seem to have a new service from Rome. I would think the service from Rome would take longer than taking the train to Naples and then getting the Positano Shuttle. I've taken the Marozzi bus from Rome before and the train (assuming you take the fast train) is faster now (wasn't true ten years ago). The Marozzi does extend it's route to Positano and Amalfi for a couple of months in the summer (July/August I think). http://www.positanoshuttle.com/ http://www.positanoshuttle.com/posit...s-timetable-2/ FYI Dukey - You can get taxis that are a set fee from Naples to the various town on the Amalfi coast if you don't like the other options. You must ask for the set fee and get a receipt. Here are the fees to the various towns. Scroll down and click on ordinary urban tariff and look at the out of town price list (Naples/Positano is 120€). Private drivers prices should be similar because they are competing with the set fee taxis. http://www.comune.napoli.it/flex/cm/.../IDPagina/1193 |
Dukey1, if you are still reading this thread -- good for you! As a bit of a reward (?), I'll say a bit more about my time in Ravello -- which may be the closest I have been to heaven on earth. Seriously.
I stayed at the Parsifal, a 13th century monastery, cum LOVELY hotel that is run by a family who I found extraordinarily gracious. I stayed there in 2007; I believe it has undergone a complete renovation since and still gets great reviews http://www.hotelparsifal.com The views over the diamond-necklace lights of the coast were magnificent. Too, I enjoyed the clopping sounds of a donkey's hooves as his owner steered him home at the end of a day, the opportunity to sip wine in an ancient cloister, to see the ancient fountain just outside the gates, and to walk through Ravello's medieval streets before and after the arrival of day trippers. Ravello is deservedly known for its magnificent gardens (at both the Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo); it is less well known for the glorious and very unusual ambi of its Cathedral. I've already mentioned the delight I took in a concert there -- the one I attended was at the Villa Rufolo ... magnifico!!! Others have mentioned the very pleasant walk from Ravello to Amalfi. I was VERY glad that I chose to stay in Ravello. YMMV. |
kja--magnificent comment.
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@ iris -- thanks! :-)
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We were two couples who flew into Naples from Catania and used a private car and driver that we had hired before we left home to take us to Positano. It was the best move we ever made with regard to private hires because a) traffic was hideous getting into Positano and there's no way we would have wanted to be behind the wheel and b) the coastal buses are nausea- and terror-inducing: the road is incredibly twisty and cars passing in the opposite direction to the buses come within inches of them. The bus drivers sound their horns at each and every curve.
The Positano apartment we rented for several weeks was situated roughly halfway up the mountain, and being dropped there with all our luggage was a luxury - and a necessary one. |
BM
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I posted the question (below) on a different thread, sorry for the duplication if you are reading this twice.
Here's my dilemma/question: I can't find a ferry schedule online - the latest updated schedule (that I've found) is from October 2015 and the ferry schedule states that there are only 3 ferries per day from Salerno to Positano and the cost/timelines posted are only valid until November 2015. This is the link I looked at: http://www.positano.com/en/ferry-schedule Does anyone know of another website I can check for updated ferry schedules between these two points? I can't find the bus schedule website for Salerno>Positano either. I'd be OK taking a bus v. ferry. I really like the idea of taking a train from Rome to Salerno (R/T), however, while it seems like the train to Salerno is the obvious easy route, that might not necessarily be so if the ferry/bus to Positano is not running throughout the day. We will have spent 5 days in Rome prior to traveling to the AC. We leave Rome on April 2 and return on April 5 for our return home on April 6. |
The ferry schedules for 2016 have not been posted yet. The ferries usually start running again April 1, but there is no guarantee. With your timing, I would opt for a private driver from Naples to Positano.
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Judy: I just posted about your question on my Salerno-Paestum-Amalfi threat.
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If Dukey is still reading this thread, FWIW we found southern and central Sicily (that is, excluding Palermo and Catania) to be very much like Greece.
In addition to all the temples, there are lots of mythic and historic links to Greece, e.g. the harbors at Siracusa where the Athenian fleet was bottled up during the Peloponnesian War, the "Fountain of Arethusa" in Sircusa, and all the relics of Demeter and Persephone (the latter AKA "The Girl".) But it needs more than the few days that you would take for the Amalfi Coast. |
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