Amalfo Coast: Tell Me About It
 

I know: stunning views and I gather getting there is half the fun. But what else did you like about it that made it worthwhile?

The issue: probable trip to Europe in 2017. It will include Venice, Verona, Milan with possibly opera performances in all three; a possible veg out by the lake in a favorite "palatial pile" hotel in Lausanne for a few nights; a flight to London for possibly more opera and definitely West End shows.

We could add Amalfi to this mix; or we could add Sicily (would rent a car). We have, in the past, loved Greece (both mainland and islands).

Thoughts most appreciated.

WAY too many highlights in both areas to cover in a brief post, especially because they are all covered well in the better guidebooks to the area (e.g., the Rough Guide).

Musical highlights, for me, included the Ravello Concert Series:
http://selectitaly.com/browse/things...oncert-society

and a performance of chamber music at Naples' Opera House.

Loved the Amalfi Coast, but loved Sicily even more.

For my TR on the AC: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...om-s-italy.cfm

For Sicily: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ing-sicily.cfm

Exactly when will you be there? We have been a couple of times in May and loved it. But in midsummer, esp August it can be elbow to elbow people in all of the smaller towns, Capri and Pompeii.

The Amalfi coast has spectacular scenery, but it's gotten way too crowded for me. I'd consider Sicily which is beautiful in a different way, less crowded and plenty to choose from in terms of what to see. We just spent some time on the Cilento coast and in Maratea and there were some stunning views much comparable to Amalfi coast, blissfully uncrowded and lovely to explore.

Thanks for the responses and I will be sure to look at the provided links later today.

The time frame will almost undoubtedly be late June/early July at the latest. We do not necessarily avoid August due to the number of "other" tourists (yes, we most certainly are that) but I appreciate your bringing up the very valid "crowd" issue because it is something to consider IMO so thank you.

You haven't said what it is you love about Greece, but if it was sites of antiquity, then if you go to the Amalfi, consider staying in a location where it would be simple to make an excursion to Paestum, which are the best preserved Greek temples in all of Europe.

I found a tour of the opera theater in Napoli delightful and would have gone to the opera there had it coincided with my being there.

Re other comments, Pompei is never "elbow to elbow" unless you limit yourself to the tick list closest to the entrance. Nytraveler has just declared she has been several times in May, so anything she thinks she knows about other time of years is probably just more projecting anxiety.

The earlier the better for Sicily - heat rather than crowds would be a consideration.

Thanks for the additional responses. Just realized my mistake in the thread title and am sure someone is having a deserved laugh about the "Amalfo" Coast.

To answer the question posed above re Greece: enjoyed both the weather in high summer as well as the antiquities and classic sites. We were part of a very small (14 people) tour with an excellent guide which was ideal for us at the time.

I have been told about, and have seen interior pictures of, the Naples opera house. It is highly rated by many and attending a performance would probably seem like a plus.

I need to read the links provided earlier as well as do more research on Sicily but am beginning to think it may be more worthwhile for us than Amalfi would be.

Paestum, which are the best preserved Greek temples in all of Europe.>

Agrigento in Sicily must be a close 2nd?

Sicily will be hot but not all that much hotter than the Amalfi and if you rent an air-conditioned car for Sicily and are sensible about not sightseeing barren ruins and salt farms at high noon. You can actually be cooler than you'd be without a car in the Amalfi, constantly marching up shadeless staircases or queueing for buses on the asphalt, or not arriving in Pompei until midmorning because it is so far from the coast. The overhead sun in that area is fierce during the longest days of the year.

That said, if you or anyone in your party is very heat-sensitive, you need to get lots of reassurances about quality air-conditioning in hotels in Sicily. Late June/July can bring African desert heatwaves blowing into Sicily, and the temps don't drop all that much at night. I'd make a point of looking for modern accommodations, whether hotels or agriturismi.

Thank you, Sandralist. IMO adequate air conditioning is part of the "charm" of any hotel I stay in. "Air conditioning" means heat in the winter and cooling in the summer.

FWIW, I visited Sicily in May and found parts -- especially the ruins -- almost unbearably hot. But then, I readily admit that I am extremely sensitive to heat, and it was a bit warmer than usual. I visited the Amalfi Coast immediately thereafter, and found in noticeably more comfortable. That easily could have simply been the weather.

Also FWIW, I gave Sicily only 2 weeks, and regret it to this day -- I sincerely wish I had given it at least 2.5, if not 3, weeks. I gave Naples and the Amalfi Coast a week, and while I didn't give Naples nearly enough time (just 2 days), I was comfortable with the rest of that part of my timing.

But, of course, what worked for me might not work for you at all -- it really depends on what YOU want to see and do.

I forgot to mention that if you do go to Sicily, the grand opera house Teatro Massimo in Palermo is very much worth touring. It was built with a roof that can be raised in sections, like wings, to cool off the interior of the theater by letting the heat escape upwards to the outdoors. However, even with that "air conditioning," I think there are no performances in summer -- but I could be wrong.

IMO, it was most certainly a "plus" to attend a musical performance in Naples's Opera House! Just me in a center front box, 2nd tier IIRC. :-)

If you decide to go to Sicily, yes indeed, tour the Teatro Massimo. And look into performances at the Greek theater in Siracusa -- its a glorious setting in which to experience a production. I think some of the other Greek theaters in Sicily stage performances during the summer, too.

With all of the other traveling in your itinerary, IMO a relaxing time in Naples and on the AC would make more sense than driving around Sicily for 2 weeks.

A few things I love about the Amalfi Coast: amazing views, fantastic food, interesting wine, a good selection of beaches, time on the sea, architecture and history, relaxation.

I rent an apartment in Positano for 8 days at the end of June each year, so I am admittedly biased. I am heat sensitive and find the Amalfi Coast warm but not unbearable. Sure, there are other tourists, but there are plenty of ways to avoid them. Day trips via ferry to Capri, Amalfi/Ravello and Salerno/Vietri are relaxing and enjoyable. A few days in Naples, for the Opera House, Pompeii, etc. would also make logistical sense.

Tough question, Dukey: your choices all have their own merits. Having visited many of those places and loved them for what they offered, perhaps an approach might be to ask yourself what do you prefer (predominantly): charm in spades or a different Italian culture than what mainland Italy possesses.

Sicily is vibrant, insular, and its citizens are fiercely proud. I found that my conversational Italian didn't hold up too well, although it wouldn't have passed muster in much of Italy's small towns. I adored Sicily for its ruins, food, people & ambience. We rented a car and had no difficulty at all driving around the country. Roads there are well-maintained and apart from the occasional traffic tie-up, it was a breeze.

Amalfi and Ravello, in particular, won my heart with its Moorish influences, lush grounds and concerts. Although we rented an apartment in Positano, it was the day trips away from Positano that were truly wonderful.

I would say there is plenty of charm available in Sicily. Notably Ortygia and Erice, and the coasts.

Even cutting peop; a lot of slack for their necessarily brief descriptions of Amafli v Sicily based on brief visits, some overly cartoonish pictures are being drawn that need some perspective.

The Italian culture of Campania is as distant from the culture of the northern half of the Itallian boot as Sicily is from "the mainland." In fact, Sicily and Naples once jointly were a southern kingdom, and they still feel bonded and share more food and other cultural similarities than does the south to places like Verona. So if you are coming from Verona, you don't need to go to Sicily to feel like you've gone into a different Italian orbit.

The choice is not between charm and something else for those who don't find anything particularly charming about the experience of the Amalfi coast in summer (or even outside summer). Some travelers find it charming. Quite a few do not. Many people who travel to the Amalfi, Naples and Paestum adored it precisely for for its ruins, food, people & ambience. Noting too that what one my heart about my last trip to Sicily was the "Moorish influence" that is such a promient feature of not just Palermo but other parts of Sicily.

Finally, logistically, getting to Sicily might be easier in summer if one starting from in Verona or Milan. One short flight and there you are, walk out of the airport terminal and into a rental car, you're on your way in a largely traffic jam-free island. Amalfi scenery has stayed stunningly beautiful in part because it so damned complicated to get to it.

The truth is that they are both fabulous destinations, each with their own assets and downsides to consider in high summer. You started out asking about the "Amalfo", but maybe what you should really be considering is the summer opera in Macerata and the Rossini festival in Pesaro. If your dates work, you could do both, and probably have a blast in that part of Italy.

" Amalfi scenery has stayed stunningly beautiful in part because it so damned complicated to get to it."

You jest, right? No shortage of people when I was there in springtime, and sounds like it is quite crowded in summer.

Fly into Naples, hire a car and driver if you're flush, for most of us, take a bus into town and the Circumvesuviano to Sorrento. Stay in Sorrento if you're planning to visit more than the AC.

Nope, not jesting at all. If you think it would have been a cinch to build a a lot of modern hotels and condos anywhere in the Amalfi, plus put in a train line and an airport and a deep cruise ship port, you are mistaken. It's not Venice. And if you think it is uncomplicated to get in a car and drive to the Amalfi coast from Naples airport in July in minutes -- well, roads can be rather crowded, as you guessed from your crowded springtime trip.

This is for Dukey:

http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/114ba...44feabdc0.html

Make your mind up. Either its unspoiled because no-one can cope with getting there, or its crowded because people don't have much trouble getting there. Seems to be the latter.

I deeply appreciate these further recommendations and points of view. They make the decision a bit easier.

If we do this at all it would be the first part of the visit to Italy as opposed to the middle or the end.

<But what else did you like about it that made it worthwhile?>

If you get away from the busy areas like Positano and Amalfi, you'll find a very quiet place with people going about their daily lives. Small villages like Scala miss the armies of tourists - which is mystifying to me as Scala has some stunning churches and is actually on the bus route to Ravello - but no one gets off to explore.

I also love the hiking - apart from the Path of the Gods there are many other trails to explore, like the Valley of the Mills out the back of Amalfi.

It's actually *not* complicated to get there at all if you travel during ferry season - train to Salerno, connect with ferry to Amalfi or Positano. Can't see anything complicated about that. Most travellers to the area going in the busy April-October season only know the Naples-Sorrento-AC route using the train and buses, or the expensive private transfer option from Naples station. Salerno is an easy and stunning way to arrive via the water but is a mostly unknown way to arrive.

We really loved the Amalfi Coast. The views are truly spectacular. For us, we had decided to do very little in the way of sightseeing. Our trip was more about relaxing.

It is a bit hard to get to but not that hard or people wouldn't be complaining about over crowding. We did not see a fraction of the area but we saw we loved!!

We visited a winery in Tramonti and the area was beautiful. Same for the walk from Nocelle to Montepertuso (and I am sure even more beautiful if you toward Bomerano).

I would love to go to Sicily...also hear it is gorgeous.

I agree that it is easy to reach the Amalfi Coast by routing through Salerno. And I would add the Salerno is, IMO, vastly under-rated. It has a lovely Lungomare, a cathedral filled with treasures, and a diocesan museum with exquisite ivories (among other things).

Maybe it was all about the hype that raised my expectations too much, but I wasn't blown away bu the AC. The coastal cliffs and scenery were dramatic but I thought Capri's coastline was prettier. The whole AC and Capri, however, were too crowded for me. We had been in Europe for a month and it was the only place I saw almost all Americans. I preferred our four days in Sorrento to the AC and Capri but really liked Naples and Umbria better than this area.

thursdaysd,

I am talking about the scenery and views, not the ambience. Do you understand now? Lago di Garda has had a great deal of its scenery spoiled because you don't need to truck in materials and equipment on one-track cliff roads to build a condo development, spend a fortune running in sewerage and electricity, drag furnishings up half-mile staircases. It's not just an overlaod of tourists that can spoil a beautiful place.

It is also that case that for a very long time, even Italians didn't favor the Amalfi coast as a vacation destination so it stayed under the radar and wasn't heavily developed like coastal areas closer to Rome or Napoli -- again, just because it was hard to get there (and once you got there, very few amenities). Capri was developed sooner. Eventually a spirited boho crowd that included some artists/celebrities began hanging out there (to get away from the crowds elsewhere), and it became better known, and more tourist infrastructe was built -- but by that time, there was more awarentess too of the downsides of overdevelopment, so restrictions were made.

But a great many foreigners choosing the famed Amalfi coast actually don't realize how time consuming and expensive it is to get there comfortably until after they've already bought their air tickets. Some peope have aced the ferry routes -- but I don't think I would ever much enjoy flying into Rome, negotiating the trains to Salerno, and then facing a longish ferry ride plus an uphill climb with luggage at the end of it to a hotel in Positano. Nor would particularly relish a long drive from Tuscany to Salerno, or a long train ride from Venice or Milan to Salerno. Alternatives are a nauseating bus ride or being stuck in an expensive limo in a traffic jam of thousands of tourists.

If one is including stopovers in Naples/Pompei on the way to the Amalfi, the last leg of getting to the coast itself gets more palatable for me.

Got curious about the ferry schedules from Salerno to Positano, mostly to see how long the ride actually was, and while I do note that the 2016 ferry schedule has not been posted, if it follows the pattern of similar years, there are not many ferries per day, and many of them would be quite impossible for someone to catch if they were starting out any distance from Salerno.

People traveling in previous years who were arriving by transatlantic flights to Rome or even European flights to Napoli would mostly likely have been unable to reach the Salerno docks in time to make the first morning ferry, and many very likely would be unable to make it in time for the second morning ferry as well -- and those people would need to wait until after 2pm to catch the very last ferry of the day.

People starting out from Venice, Milan, Verona (like Dukey appears to be considering) would face a 5+ hour train ride and similar problems trying to get to Salerno in time for the last morning ferry, or even the very last ferry without a very early morning start.

Anybody considering driving to Salerno from Tuscany not only has a 5 hour drive, but they need to factor in getting to the car rental office before it closes to drop off the car.

And you're still not on the Amalfi coast! There is yet a 1+ hour ferry ride to the Positano dock if sea conditons permit it, or else a bus or taxi ride that is at least as long if not longer.

I'm not surprised people love the Amalfi scenery and find the payoff worth the hassle of getting there -- but it is a hassle, moreso than many other scenic destinations in Italy.

I think were it me, I'd prefer to aim for a night on Capri first, then the next day take a ferry to Positano.

According to positano.com there are five million visitors a year to the AC, doesn't sound like the supposed difficulty of getting there is deterring many people. Same site lists a frequent bus from Sorrento to Positano and Amalfi, and a four/day direct bus from Naples to Amalfi.

I flew into Naples, took a bus into town and the ferry to Capri for three nights before taking the ferry to Sorrento. Not a problem and not at all clear to me that taking the Circumvesuviano to Sorrento would have been worse. Then there are tours and cruises.

sandra, one of the reasons I often suggest taking the train to Salerno then ferry to Positano is it really is a glorious way to see the Amalfi Coast.

During the season there are at least 7 ferries per day. Sure there is a gap during the lunch hour, but if travelers have a long train ride they can usually catch the first afternoon ferry at 2:00. Even if they get to the train station at 1:00, there are 2 cafes at the ferry dock where you can get a drink and/or something to eat while you wait for the ferry.

Taking the train from Milan/Florence/Rome, then ferry to Positano or Amalfi also has fewer connections than going through Naples (unless you train to Naples and hire a driver to take you to your destination on the Amalfi Coast).

You are correct that it takes over an hour for the ferry to get from Salerno to Positano. The ferry ride is 35 minutes from Salerno to Amalfi and 70 minutes from Salerno to Positano (with a stop in Amalfi). But I would rather spend an hour on the ferry, with the wind in my hair breathing the fresh sea air and watching the gorgeous scenery of the Amalfi Coast and its charming towns go by, than spend an hour underground on the Circumvesuviana, or on a crowded bus, getting from Naples to Sorrento.

I am not saying you are wrong, I just wanted to clarify my earlier post.

I have heard Sicily is lovely also. I have yet to visit as I have not had the 2 weeks that I feel it deserves.

As I mentioned earlier, it is pretty plain from reading lots of Fodor's queries and trip reports that many of the 5 million people who are inspired to visit the Amalfi coast, and buy air tickets and book hotels, don't realize until they are actually on the trip, in transit, how much effort it takes to get there.

Many people are not deterrred from going to the Amalfi because they have an incorrect picture of the logistics of getting there. Not only that, many of the 5 million peope visiting the Amalfi coast per year are arriving on tour buses. Many of them are hiring private drivers. Many are driving in themselves.

But of the many who take public transportation, many of them report back they would never do it again, and would next time hire private transport. Probably many of them have not discovered the ferries from Salerno, but even after reading them described, a lot of people would probably find such a long travel day tough.

It is easier to get to Capri than it is the Amalfi coast. We have been discussing the logistics of getting to the Amalfi coast. There appears to be only one enjoyable option that is time consuming, and would be difficult for many people after already spending hours on transatlantic flights or long train journeys from Northern Europe.

On pur trip last year to the AC we went through the "back door" via Salerno and really enjoyed it. We took the train from Naples to Paestum and stayed overnight in a little villa a few hundred yards from the Greek temples. These three temples were a highlight of our trip. The archeology museum is very fine.

From Paestum it is a brief train ride to Salerno, well worth an overnight (we stayed two nights). Salerno and many of the Amalfi coast towns were wealthy, powerful medieval states and Salerno's old centro is well preserved. Salerno's seafront, heavily hit by the World War II invasion, has been rebuilt as a beautiful tree-lined promenade. From there you can take the ferry for a half-hour ride north to Amalfi. On the ferry ride you get great views of the mountainous coast, something you don't see well on the bus or in a car.

From Amalfi we took a 20-minute bus up to Ravello and used it as our base for three days.

This back-door approach to the AC avoids the congestion of the main crowd flows from Sorrento south via bus or ferry toward Positano and Amalfi.

See my TR if you want details. It's a magnificent area, well worth the effort to visit IMHO.

<There appears to be only one enjoyable option that is time consuming, and would be difficult for many people after already spending hours on transatlantic flights or long train journeys from Northern Europe.>

No more time consuming than (a) sitting on the train to Sorrento for an hour (b) joining the line waiting for the SITA bus - which will be lengthy because they always are (c) watching the bus depart because you can't fit on it (d) waiting for the line to shuffle forward for the next bus (e) finally getting on the bus and having to stand while it sways around the bends or is at a standstill for 15 minutes because of contra-flow roadworks going on OR (f) paying a private car service 120 euro from Naples to Positano.

I think you're issues with the Salerno ferry pickup are somewhat unreasonable. The train from Rome requires no changes. The ferry dock is a few minutes walk away. There are no crowds as no one knows about this route. You arrive at Amalfi or Positano with - as ekc says - the wind in your face and breathtaking views of the coastline. And if you have luggage, the porters (in Positano) will take it to your hotel. I don't see what is 'long and tough' about this when you consider the uncomfortable and expensive alternatives.

Just to clarify re tour buses - they don't go to Positano because they are not permitted down those little streets - they can't fit. Big bus tourism (as in Trafalgar et al) tend to stick to Sorrento and do day trips. The big coaches on the AC end up in Amalfi cheek by jowel in the parking lot by the ferry dock.

My posts plainly are addressed to travelers who are arriving on transatlantic flights or who are making overland journeys starting from points far north of Rome, not starting from Rome or Paestum.

Arriving at an airport, there are train/bus changes involved in getting to Salerno. There are some trains from Milan or Verona that don't require any changes en route to Salerno, but it is a long ride and schedules may not make it easy to time with ferry schedules.

There appears to be no disagreement in this thread about what an unenjoyable time consuming, expensive and uncomfortable pain it is to try to get to the Amalfi coast by bus in July with luggage. Glad everyone knows that is prepared to share that honestly with would-be travelers.

Reasonable people may indeed differ about whether they look forward to wind in their face after a overnight trasatlantic flight (hope it's not raining that day!) or how long a travel day without a break they are willing to undertake if they are coming by train or car from Milan or Verona.

After reading many posts on Fodor's about literally what a breeze it is to fly to Italy, land at a southern airport, and get to Positano by ferry, I was surprised when I actually did some research at how long it took. Just surprised. That's not my idea of a breeze, especially after a transatlantic flight, whether it be non-stop or one involving plane changes. That's a lot f travel for one day.

Even before this thead I had no plans to go back to the Amalfi coast, certainly not in high season, so my only interest is that people have an accurate picture of what their travel "day" will entail even if they take the "easier" option of the ferry and they aren't starting from Rome or Paestum.

Some people will find it a breeze and will not hestitate to adopt the Salerno ferry route. Others might find it easier to go first to Capri, or Naples or Rome. That's not unreasonable.

Rick Steves and Tauck both have tours that sleep in Positano. There are probably others. The RS tours use minibus transfers from coach to hotel, don't know what Tauck does. But agree that the Trafalgar variety would not.

So - if people want to transatlantic fly to Italy and then head straight for the Amalfi Coast, what are their options? I can't imagine anyone landing in Milan and heading straight for Amalfi - or at least anyone with common sense and a map of Italy. Then you discuss landing at a southern airport and it also being a drama. You clearly had never heard of the Salerno ferry option - which I hope many people will consider as it sure beats the bus. 70 minutes on the water or 1.5 hours in traffic wedged under someone's armpit?

As for anyone coming from Milan in a rental car, another 45 minutes down the autostrada to Salerno ? Difficult and taxing?

Anyway, the OP is certainly not planning on Transatlantic flying into Milan and heading straight for the AC - but for anyone reading this landing in Rome or Naples (and many people will) then the Salerno ferry route is picturesque and very comfortable.

Whether it is coming from Sorrento, Salerno or Capri, the sight of the Amalfi Coast from the water is incredible.

We did stay in Sorrento first before going on to Ana-Capri.

Then the ferry to AC.

On leaving the Amalfi Coast we had a cab from Ravello to Naples.

Very easy from Naples to Ravello and I think I recall it was about 130 euros via cab. Not sure.

Having stayed in Ravello, we found taking the bus to the other towns much fun, although very overcrowded.

Wonderful garden visit in Ravello.

Ravello is spectacular and the times we have been there less crowded then Positano and Amalfi.

I'm another fan of Ravello -- its a spectacular place, IMO.