A walk in Malta
 

After having lived in deep freeze(-15C to -30C) for 2 months, it became necessary for me to go somewhere to thaw out. At the last minute,instead Serbia(2C?!) as planned,I went to Malta, inspired by a visit to St.John's Museum in London last December, and 18C average(!!),besides it is the southernmost place in europe.<BR><BR>Most people think of Malta only sea and sand; but there are five World Heritage Sites in such a small area, from the oldest man-made structure,megalithic temples to the most concentrated Baroque buildings in the world.<BR><BR>&quot;The stone,if there are stars,can fly.&quot;,in Malta,almost every building is built of local pale yellow limestone. They glow when drenched under bright sunlight. Baroque style shows its most splendour in churches,plazzas and houses here. Even with the austere influence by the Knights,the grandeur of interiors always made me gasp with wonders.<BR><BR>There are many museums even in small towns, some with treasures collected through centuries. I like the little &quot;St.James Cavalier for creativity&quot; very much. It is convered from a fortified tower with several meters of stonewall. The entrance is very dramatic, and the designs on the space are really interesting.there is a 100 seats small theatre in the museum, I saw &quot;The charol of disapproving&quot; one nights, And three concerts in 260 years old Manoel Theatre.<BR><BR>Spring has come much earlier in Malta. Yellow mimosas,golden field marigolds,purple wild thymes and red poppies cover the countryside like colourful carpets. I had 10 days endless blue sky, calm sea wwith light warm breeze. After looking at the steel gray/icy blue Lake Ontario for so long, I almost forgot how joyous blue could be.<BR><BR><BR><BR>

It is still low season, accommadations are cheap and plentyful. I booked a hotel room in Valletta the night before leaving, the room in Gozo before boarding the ferry. Both were nice ans spacious, cost less than 50 Euro including buffet breakfst. Food is good and cheap,many bakeries sold fresh tasty pizza for cents, excellent 3 course dinner for about 10 Euro. The best is fresh blood orange juice for less than 2 Euro.<BR><BR>Malta toruist centre has issued five booklets(1 LM each) on countryside walking,they ae well-designed with routs,maps and every little details. Besides these walks, I hve set up several other through other interesting sites.<BR><BR>One of the routes is walking along Victoria Line-a 19th century defensive wall built by the Britishs. It runs across the northwest part of Malta, through some high ridges,green valleys,oliver groves,hamlets and orchards. At some points,you could walk on the wall;at any point,there is always the hazzy blue sea at the skyline, and huge,imposing churches doting the far way green field.<BR><BR>From Mdina-the silent medieval walled city,through Rabat-many narrow winding alleys and catacombs to Buskett Gardens is another interesint walk. I lingered at the courtyard of the 15th century Dominican Monastery (outside Rabat) for quite a while. The garden with many fruits loaded orange and lemon trees surrounded by high cloister is a perfect picture of tranquillity. Buskett Gardens were originally planted by the Knights. There are still many 300 years old beautifull trees around.<BR><BR>The Cliff near Dingle is the hightest point of Malta. The coastal scenery is quite different than other parts, much more drastic. There are some mystery cart ruts on the route. While having tea at a little village cafe(had the best almond tarts), I was told many villagers having immigrated to Canada after the War.

On the walk from St.Lawrenz to the northern coast of Gozo, I was picked up by a little white dog with black patch over one eye. He followed me westernwards to Azure Window on the sea, except when exploring some mysteric scents or playing with green lizards,never gone far. I went to a cafe at the next village to try to decide what to do. After a lively discuss,everyone decided he was too well-fed and behaviors to be a stray. But he still followed me on the road. We shared a nice picnic by a tiny 14th century roadside chapel. it was till near dusk, he decided it was enough walk for him and took off.<BR><BR>Among the walks, I had hardly encountered any other walker. Except one French couple on the southest coast of Gozo,they were trying to find a pre-history temple and got lost. On the imprssive chalk cliff near Xlendi,I met a whole German family with baby,they came for walking every year.<BR><BR>The highlight of my staying is the Referendum for entering EU. Everywhere I went,there were heated discussions. At the result, the whole island went crazy: car parades, music, firework,flags flying.... <BR><BR>It was a shock to come back to two feet snow in my backyard.

Thanks for the nice write-up, Judy. The new issue of National Geographic Traveler has a nice article on Malta that might be of interest to you and others.<BR><BR>John H.

I was in Malta last February and fell in love with it. For such a small island, there is a wealth of history and lots to see and do. I will definitely be making a return trip. Thank you for the report.

Judy-Thanks for your observations about Malta-it sounds like a wonderful place! Isn't it funny how those last minute trips sometimes turn out to be the best ones after all !

National Geographic Traveler, Aprill 2003, issue has an article about Malta. It has whetted my desire to visit Malta - possibly September 2004.

Thanks for this Maltese report.<BR>We'll be in Malta next month and are looking forward to this trip.

I am glad the report is of interesting.<BR><BR>Yes,away from highrise resort areas, Malta is a really delightful place to visit.

Thanks Judy! I had reservations last month while in Frankfurt for a weekend getaway to Malta, primarily for some good weather after a month in Germany in the winter. Unfortunately unforseen circumstances came up and I had to cancel. Now I know what I almost got to experience.

Hi,those of you that are gonna visit our small and beautiful island,I suggest to visit the small villages we have around.Normally,they are quiet villages but very relaxing to explore.And I'm sure that the residents will help you if you meet any difficulties.Maltese people are very friendly and very kind to help.

I'm intrigued - loved JudyC's report and the Nat.Geo article. Can you get around without a car? How is the public transportation? Is it a good choice for a solo woman? How do you get there? Fly to Rome and then to Malta? Is there a good web site?

To Barb: Malta has excellent pubilc transportation: cheap (ticket about us$ 0.40) bus network to every little village. I have never rented a car while travelling for pleasure in Europe.<BR><BR>However, in Malta,all buses centre at Valletta; in Gozo, all buses centre at Victoria, if you like to travel to off beaten pathes ,it takes a little planning to catch the return bus.<BR><BR>As the previous post mentioned, maltese are very friendly and helpful. So Many times,people stopped to enquire whether I needed help. On the bus, stranger reminded me the stop I should get off. Walking alone on the country road till late afternoon, or after the concert in the late evening,never once I felt uneasy, and I am just a petite woman.<BR><BR>With many cheap flighst from London to other parts of Europe, I always fly to London to change the flight nowadays.I flew with Air Malta this trip, it was perfectly adequate.

To Barb: Helpful Websites:<BR> Visitmalta.com<BR> Maltatransport.com<BR> Searchmalta.com<BR> Aboutmalta.com<BR> Maltaweather.com<BR> Maltadirect.com

Thanks JudyC! You mentioned that your hotel was under 50E. Is this typical, or very budget. Was it a 2*? I'm a budget traveller and like to get something decent for around 50E. Well, I'm seriously considering Malta for my next trip. Do many people speak English? I think they mentioned that in Nat. Geo article. What is the best place to base for a 2 week visit?

To Barb: I am a budget traveller too. The rates quoted are for low season (from October to March). Both hotels are clean and nice with friendly stuff. I heard that it is quite pleasant to visit in October,as the sea is still warm enough for swinning.<BR><BR>In Malta,I stayed at Csstille Hotel (3 stars)in Valletta,less than 5 minutes walk to Bus Terminal. Many guide books suggest staying in Sliema/St.Julian's areas for the nightlife, But I am afraid the matchbox like highrises doesn't appeal to me.<BR><BR>In Gozo, I stayed at Grand Hotel (4 stars)overloooking Mgarr Harbour, 2-3 minites walk to ferry. There are buses every 45 minutes from early mornig to Victoria Bus Terminal for other destinations. I stayed at Mgarr for the view and easy transportation. I am not sure they are the best bases, but worked quite well for me.<BR><BR>English is one of the two offical languages of Malta.

English and Maltese are the official languages,and most Maltese speak English. I traveled solo there last winter, and got a great rate on an air/hotel package through Amelia International. It was advertised on aboutmalta.com. R/t airfare from LA plus 10 nights at a 4-star hotel was $875 US (about $818E). Airfare was $570 and the room was $30.50/nt (about 28E). The price included single supplement. These rates were only available low season, November through March. Prices are much higher during the spring and summer. <BR><BR>For example, Amelia International is currently running a Spring special, r/t air from NY/Boston/Dulles plus 7 nights at a 4-star hotel for $999 double occupancy, $1085 with single supplement. Extra nights for singles are $50 (about 47E). The deal is good April 1 through June 8. There are probably discounted deals available in Europe, too, particularly in winter. I flew Virgin Atlantic to London, and then Air Malta to Malta. <BR><BR>In Malta I walked extensively, and took buses and ferries. It was easy to get around because Malta is only about 17 miles long(about 27K) and 9 miles wide. <BR><BR>I stayed in Sliema, but Valletta and St. Julian are popular too. You could also stay further out in quieter, less touristy areas. In any event, if you go, make sure you go to Gozo, if only for the day.<BR><BR>The Maltese are some of the friendliest people I have ever met, and I could easily have stayed there another 10 days if my schedule had permitted.

Thanks for the responses. The more I read about Malta, the more I want to go. Probably fall of 2004 for two weeks.

I am glad to see that a Malta related posting has gotten so many responses. Thanks JudyC and all the others. <BR><BR>I am visiting Malta for a week in early June, and looking forward to it. Glad to hear that there are some interesting walks. I am also staying at the Castille, since I prefer historic Valletta to the &quot;boxy&quot; Sliema/St. Julian's. I selected it, even though at other places outside of Valletta, the hotels seemed to give you more bang for the buck - pool, balcony, etc. Judy - how was the Castille?<BR><BR>From North America, normally the cheapest way to go is via London. I got an air only package thru Amelia. They had hotel packages also, but getting the hotel on my own was a bit less expensive than getting the same hotel as part of a package through Amelia. It came to about $20 per day less (so $140 for the week) - although the package included transfers - so we figure that overall we are saving about $100.<BR><BR>We are also planning to visit Tunisia via Air Malta for 4 days/three nights.

As a landlocked (and currently snow-bound) person from Colorado I can't get enough of beaches. I loved the Traveler article on Malta and Judy's descriptions - but they don't cover whether or not I could find a nice beach - even a rock or pebble beach. Any leads on towns/beaches or sea-side hotels in Malta?