A walk in Malta
 

After having lived in deep freeze(-15C to -30C) for 2 months, it became necessary for me to go somewhere to thaw out. At the last minute,instead Serbia(2C?!) as planned,I went to Malta, inspired by a visit to St.John's Museum in London last December, and 18C average(!!),besides it is the southernmost place in europe.<BR><BR>Most people think of Malta only sea and sand; but there are five World Heritage Sites in such a small area, from the oldest man-made structure,megalithic temples to the most concentrated Baroque buildings in the world.<BR><BR>&quot;The stone,if there are stars,can fly.&quot;,in Malta,almost every building is built of local pale yellow limestone. They glow when drenched under bright sunlight. Baroque style shows its most splendour in churches,plazzas and houses here. Even with the austere influence by the Knights,the grandeur of interiors always made me gasp with wonders.<BR><BR>There are many museums even in small towns, some with treasures collected through centuries. I like the little &quot;St.James Cavalier for creativity&quot; very much. It is convered from a fortified tower with several meters of stonewall. The entrance is very dramatic, and the designs on the space are really interesting.there is a 100 seats small theatre in the museum, I saw &quot;The charol of disapproving&quot; one nights, And three concerts in 260 years old Manoel Theatre.<BR><BR>Spring has come much earlier in Malta. Yellow mimosas,golden field marigolds,purple wild thymes and red poppies cover the countryside like colourful carpets. I had 10 days endless blue sky, calm sea wwith light warm breeze. After looking at the steel gray/icy blue Lake Ontario for so long, I almost forgot how joyous blue could be.<BR><BR><BR><BR>

It is still low season, accommadations are cheap and plentyful. I booked a hotel room in Valletta the night before leaving, the room in Gozo before boarding the ferry. Both were nice ans spacious, cost less than 50 Euro including buffet breakfst. Food is good and cheap,many bakeries sold fresh tasty pizza for cents, excellent 3 course dinner for about 10 Euro. The best is fresh blood orange juice for less than 2 Euro.<BR><BR>Malta toruist centre has issued five booklets(1 LM each) on countryside walking,they ae well-designed with routs,maps and every little details. Besides these walks, I hve set up several other through other interesting sites.<BR><BR>One of the routes is walking along Victoria Line-a 19th century defensive wall built by the Britishs. It runs across the northwest part of Malta, through some high ridges,green valleys,oliver groves,hamlets and orchards. At some points,you could walk on the wall;at any point,there is always the hazzy blue sea at the skyline, and huge,imposing churches doting the far way green field.<BR><BR>From Mdina-the silent medieval walled city,through Rabat-many narrow winding alleys and catacombs to Buskett Gardens is another interesint walk. I lingered at the courtyard of the 15th century Dominican Monastery (outside Rabat) for quite a while. The garden with many fruits loaded orange and lemon trees surrounded by high cloister is a perfect picture of tranquillity. Buskett Gardens were originally planted by the Knights. There are still many 300 years old beautifull trees around.<BR><BR>The Cliff near Dingle is the hightest point of Malta. The coastal scenery is quite different than other parts, much more drastic. There are some mystery cart ruts on the route. While having tea at a little village cafe(had the best almond tarts), I was told many villagers having immigrated to Canada after the War.

On the walk from St.Lawrenz to the northern coast of Gozo, I was picked up by a little white dog with black patch over one eye. He followed me westernwards to Azure Window on the sea, except when exploring some mysteric scents or playing with green lizards,never gone far. I went to a cafe at the next village to try to decide what to do. After a lively discuss,everyone decided he was too well-fed and behaviors to be a stray. But he still followed me on the road. We shared a nice picnic by a tiny 14th century roadside chapel. it was till near dusk, he decided it was enough walk for him and took off.<BR><BR>Among the walks, I had hardly encountered any other walker. Except one French couple on the southest coast of Gozo,they were trying to find a pre-history temple and got lost. On the imprssive chalk cliff near Xlendi,I met a whole German family with baby,they came for walking every year.<BR><BR>The highlight of my staying is the Referendum for entering EU. Everywhere I went,there were heated discussions. At the result, the whole island went crazy: car parades, music, firework,flags flying.... <BR><BR>It was a shock to come back to two feet snow in my backyard.

Thanks for the nice write-up, Judy. The new issue of National Geographic Traveler has a nice article on Malta that might be of interest to you and others.<BR><BR>John H.

I was in Malta last February and fell in love with it. For such a small island, there is a wealth of history and lots to see and do. I will definitely be making a return trip. Thank you for the report.

Judy-Thanks for your observations about Malta-it sounds like a wonderful place! Isn't it funny how those last minute trips sometimes turn out to be the best ones after all !

National Geographic Traveler, Aprill 2003, issue has an article about Malta. It has whetted my desire to visit Malta - possibly September 2004.

Thanks for this Maltese report.<BR>We'll be in Malta next month and are looking forward to this trip.

I am glad the report is of interesting.<BR><BR>Yes,away from highrise resort areas, Malta is a really delightful place to visit.

Thanks Judy! I had reservations last month while in Frankfurt for a weekend getaway to Malta, primarily for some good weather after a month in Germany in the winter. Unfortunately unforseen circumstances came up and I had to cancel. Now I know what I almost got to experience.

Hi,those of you that are gonna visit our small and beautiful island,I suggest to visit the small villages we have around.Normally,they are quiet villages but very relaxing to explore.And I'm sure that the residents will help you if you meet any difficulties.Maltese people are very friendly and very kind to help.

I'm intrigued - loved JudyC's report and the Nat.Geo article. Can you get around without a car? How is the public transportation? Is it a good choice for a solo woman? How do you get there? Fly to Rome and then to Malta? Is there a good web site?

To Barb: Malta has excellent pubilc transportation: cheap (ticket about us$ 0.40) bus network to every little village. I have never rented a car while travelling for pleasure in Europe.<BR><BR>However, in Malta,all buses centre at Valletta; in Gozo, all buses centre at Victoria, if you like to travel to off beaten pathes ,it takes a little planning to catch the return bus.<BR><BR>As the previous post mentioned, maltese are very friendly and helpful. So Many times,people stopped to enquire whether I needed help. On the bus, stranger reminded me the stop I should get off. Walking alone on the country road till late afternoon, or after the concert in the late evening,never once I felt uneasy, and I am just a petite woman.<BR><BR>With many cheap flighst from London to other parts of Europe, I always fly to London to change the flight nowadays.I flew with Air Malta this trip, it was perfectly adequate.

To Barb: Helpful Websites:<BR> Visitmalta.com<BR> Maltatransport.com<BR> Searchmalta.com<BR> Aboutmalta.com<BR> Maltaweather.com<BR> Maltadirect.com

Thanks JudyC! You mentioned that your hotel was under 50E. Is this typical, or very budget. Was it a 2*? I'm a budget traveller and like to get something decent for around 50E. Well, I'm seriously considering Malta for my next trip. Do many people speak English? I think they mentioned that in Nat. Geo article. What is the best place to base for a 2 week visit?

To Barb: I am a budget traveller too. The rates quoted are for low season (from October to March). Both hotels are clean and nice with friendly stuff. I heard that it is quite pleasant to visit in October,as the sea is still warm enough for swinning.<BR><BR>In Malta,I stayed at Csstille Hotel (3 stars)in Valletta,less than 5 minutes walk to Bus Terminal. Many guide books suggest staying in Sliema/St.Julian's areas for the nightlife, But I am afraid the matchbox like highrises doesn't appeal to me.<BR><BR>In Gozo, I stayed at Grand Hotel (4 stars)overloooking Mgarr Harbour, 2-3 minites walk to ferry. There are buses every 45 minutes from early mornig to Victoria Bus Terminal for other destinations. I stayed at Mgarr for the view and easy transportation. I am not sure they are the best bases, but worked quite well for me.<BR><BR>English is one of the two offical languages of Malta.

English and Maltese are the official languages,and most Maltese speak English. I traveled solo there last winter, and got a great rate on an air/hotel package through Amelia International. It was advertised on aboutmalta.com. R/t airfare from LA plus 10 nights at a 4-star hotel was $875 US (about $818E). Airfare was $570 and the room was $30.50/nt (about 28E). The price included single supplement. These rates were only available low season, November through March. Prices are much higher during the spring and summer. <BR><BR>For example, Amelia International is currently running a Spring special, r/t air from NY/Boston/Dulles plus 7 nights at a 4-star hotel for $999 double occupancy, $1085 with single supplement. Extra nights for singles are $50 (about 47E). The deal is good April 1 through June 8. There are probably discounted deals available in Europe, too, particularly in winter. I flew Virgin Atlantic to London, and then Air Malta to Malta. <BR><BR>In Malta I walked extensively, and took buses and ferries. It was easy to get around because Malta is only about 17 miles long(about 27K) and 9 miles wide. <BR><BR>I stayed in Sliema, but Valletta and St. Julian are popular too. You could also stay further out in quieter, less touristy areas. In any event, if you go, make sure you go to Gozo, if only for the day.<BR><BR>The Maltese are some of the friendliest people I have ever met, and I could easily have stayed there another 10 days if my schedule had permitted.

Thanks for the responses. The more I read about Malta, the more I want to go. Probably fall of 2004 for two weeks.

I am glad to see that a Malta related posting has gotten so many responses. Thanks JudyC and all the others. <BR><BR>I am visiting Malta for a week in early June, and looking forward to it. Glad to hear that there are some interesting walks. I am also staying at the Castille, since I prefer historic Valletta to the &quot;boxy&quot; Sliema/St. Julian's. I selected it, even though at other places outside of Valletta, the hotels seemed to give you more bang for the buck - pool, balcony, etc. Judy - how was the Castille?<BR><BR>From North America, normally the cheapest way to go is via London. I got an air only package thru Amelia. They had hotel packages also, but getting the hotel on my own was a bit less expensive than getting the same hotel as part of a package through Amelia. It came to about $20 per day less (so $140 for the week) - although the package included transfers - so we figure that overall we are saving about $100.<BR><BR>We are also planning to visit Tunisia via Air Malta for 4 days/three nights.

As a landlocked (and currently snow-bound) person from Colorado I can't get enough of beaches. I loved the Traveler article on Malta and Judy's descriptions - but they don't cover whether or not I could find a nice beach - even a rock or pebble beach. Any leads on towns/beaches or sea-side hotels in Malta?

Howard,<BR><BR>The next time I go to Malta I plan to go to Tunisia. What kind of rate did you get for your 4 days/3 nights in Tunisia? Was this through Amelia Int'l? <BR><BR>Marge20, I did see several beaches in Malta, but being from San Diego I don't consider the beaches to be Malta's strong point. They are located on the many small bays on the island. Many are just rocks; some are simply stretches of land just yards from a main road. My recollection is that most were toward the northern end of the island, i.e., Sliema and northward. <BR><BR>In Sliema people sunbathe literally on the rocks. At White Rocks there is a Splash and Fun Water Park which claims to be the largest seawater swimming pool on the island. There is also a Mediterraneo Marine World. A couple of miles away is the Suncrest Hotel, which faces Salina Bay. Bugibba is on the other side of the peninsula. It doesn't have a beach per se, but people sunbathe along the seafront.<BR><BR>There is a sandless beach at St. Paul's Bay, but if you continue on around to Mellieha Bay, you will find the longest sandy beach in Malta. You can go parasailing, windsurfing, and water skiiing there. There are also beaches along Marfa Ridge. Slug Bay is along the south, facing Mellieha; it's very small; Armier Bay, Ramla Bay and Paradise Bay are along the northern edge of the Ridge. There are also beaches along the northwest end of the island, for example, Golden Bay and others.<BR><BR>I can't personally recommend any beachfront hotel because I stayed along the waterfront in Sliema. If you like large resort-type hotels, the Suncrest Hotel and the Paradise Bay Hotel are along the beach. You can see these and others at www.maltahotel.net and www.gomaltatravel.com. Also, the websites that JudyC listed are excellent for info regarding Malta. <BR>

Are there still numerous religious processionals with members of the church or guild marching with decorated statues and other religious icons? 30 years ago when my husband was in the navy his ship was in Valetta for a month and so we rented a flat there. The thing that stands out in my mind the most was the number of holy day processionals we saw in that time. there seemed to be one every coupe of days.

To: Howard: as several threads mentioned before, Castile Hotel is a nice 3* hotel, excellent located with friendly staff. I had a room on the 4th floor, overlooking Grand Harbout,the sunset was incredible. The restaurant on the roof offers good value fixed menu. For light meal, the cafe at the basement is not bad; I enjoyed the cafe at St.James the Cavalier(just cross the street)very much.<BR><BR>If you plan to visit Hypogeum,make sure buy the ticket as soon as possible(they don't accept reservation). Early March was low season, but I had a ticket for 3 days later. Hypogeum is near Paola(sp?)Square,don't miss the church by the bus stop, its interior is really joyfully airy.<BR><BR>The airport transfer is quite easy, the bus stop is outside the departure side. #8 bus( cost 15 cent) leaves every half an hour. <BR><BR>I am sure you will enjoy Tunisia, I spent 15 days (including 3 days desert trekking)over there last November,still missed many great sites.<BR><BR>To:Marge20, as Walkabout mentioned, there are quite a few pebble beaches in Malta. There are several sand beaches in Gozo. I have walked by GoldenSand Beach(supposed the best one),but I am afraid it's not as expansive as those in Brittany or Cornwall.<BR><BR>To:Julies, Maltese still celebrate festivals in summer.

Regards Marge20's question,Malta is a small island,so you'll find sea all round.Some sandy beaches to mention are: Golden Bay,Ghadira,Pretty Bay, Gnejna,Paradise Bay.Then rocky beaches: Ghar Lapsi,Wied iz-Zurrieq,Marsascala, Qawra ect... Regards Julie's question, from mid May till the end of September, you'll find a feast in every town or village in the Maltese islands. And sometimes,even 2 feasts at a weekend. And to mention all, on the 15th of August,there will be the feast of St.Mary in 7 villages.

Hello again!<BR><BR>Judy - Thanks for the additional information about the Castille and about visiting the Hypogeum, which definitely is on our list to see. I expect in will be much busier in early June than when you were there. We will be in Malta for a day and a half, then go to Tunisia for the three nights, then back to Malta for 6 full days. Perhaps we can get Hypogeum tickets on our first full day, for a visit the following week.<BR><BR>To walkabout - Amelia did have a package for thefour days/three nights in Tunis - at either a 4 star or 3 star hotel. For the three star, the price was $299 per person, including air/hotel/transfers. The hotel for the 3 star was the Omrane, in downtown Tunis. To save some money, we booked on our own. The flight was $189 per person, and the Omrane was $45 per night ($22.50 per person). So our total for the 3 nights will be about $256 without the transfers (transfers in package were in Tunis only). Was able to book the hotel and air online. <BR><BR>In Tunis, we plan to visit Carthage and Sidi Bou Said for a daytrip. Probably the rest of the time in Tunis, though I would like to visit Kirouan, about 2.5 hours away - we will play that by ear - see how interesting Tunis is.<BR><BR><BR>Before Malta, we are stopping over in London for about 5 days. We have tickets to the Chelsea flower show on day two and tickets to a Bruce Springsteen concert on our last night in London. Planning maybe one day trip - leading candidate is Cambridge.<BR>

Thank you Angelo and JudyC and Walkabout for the beach information - a new trip to Italy is beginning to form in my mind that starts with 5 days in Malta!

Howard,<BR><BR>Thank you very much for the info on Tunisia. A short trip there from Malta is not as expensive as I thought it would be. Thank you again, and I hope you have a wonderful trip.

Quick update - I had been planning to stay at the Castille, but I now have noticed that the Le Meridian, jsut outside the city gates of Valletta, has come down greatly in price since I first checked a couple of months ago. It is now jsut a little bit more expensive than the Castille. This is for the internet rate only. <BR><BR>The Meridian has the added bonus of a pool, and some other recreational facilities. We are going primarily for sightseeing, but it will be nice to be able to relax by the pool at times. The Meridian has an advantage from my perspective because it is both in a historic area and has pool, etc.<BR><BR>

Howard - Alas - I was going to wax euphoric about the Castille. Loved the old-world charm &amp; front desk's aid in securing Gozo reservs.

Rhea - Thanks for your input. I was thinking that we mighjt give up some &quot;charm&quot; and personal service in switching from the Castille to Meridian. I think the Meridian should be helpful in logistics, but maybe since it is larger, it won't be as personal (e.g. staff would not as readily remember room number when picking up room key from front desk). However, I think (hope) we are getting more comfort, and of course those rec. facilities. If the Meridian were just a big boxy bldg, I might not have switched, but it also looks like a nice place with &quot;character&quot;.<BR><BR>We were in St. Louis last summer, for a long weekend vacation - again mostly for sightseeing. The entire weekend had perfect weather, and the place we were staying had a pool. Each day would be be out for most of the day, but return to the hotel about 5 PM, and swim/sit around the pool for an hour or 90 minutes before dinner. It was very enjoyable. The weather in Malta should be nice in early June, so I am thinking we can do pretty much the same thing at least of some of the days we will be there.

Howard it's a good trade-off since the<BR>pool is important to you. Pls. do post a post-trip report for the rest of us to savor.<BR><BR>

Rhea - Will do a trip report when I return (June 8). On the same trip, we are going to London for 5 nights - have tkts. for Chelsea flower show and Bruce Springsteen concert, and to Tunis (if things are ok) for 4 days/three nights. Looking forward to all of the stops.