Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report A (too) short late October visit to Greece

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starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 08:12 AM

A (too) short late October visit to Greece

This was a top of the bucket list/ dream trip for me. It was almost perfect in every way. We were only there for a week, so the time was far too short. We didn't have the time to see/ do everything we wanted. But it was a great first visit to Greece and I hope to return soon.

Details -
3 nights at the Hilton Athens in an Acropolis view room
2 nights at the Canaves Oia on Santorini
2 nights at the Crowne Plaza City Centre in Athens

Best tip for the entire trip = Challiman's suggestion of Paul's Yellow Taxi - now PK Travel - for transfers and day trips.
HIGHLY recommend! Made life so much easier and really enjoyed the drivers.
https://www.pktravelgreece.com/

Our beloved LoveItaly recommended a private driver for the Amalfi coast MANY years ago and I used her recommendation two Octobers ago for the Amalfi coast part of our trip. Having a driver deal with the logistics is just heaven and is being the only ones the driver is concerned about. I don't mind renting a car and driving myself in many places - and may do so in the future in Greece - but we definitely enjoyed the ease and convenience of using the PK Travel drivers.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 08:24 AM

The non-negotiable for this trip = staying at the Canaves Oia on Santorini
www.canaves.com
Trying another link -
https://canaves.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0...xoC-xYQAvD_BwE
A friend had stayed there years ago (at least 14+) and after hearing about her stay knew I would go there one day. This was finally my time to visit. I will return.

Pure luxury! I've stayed at some nice places. Loved the former Jalousie Plantation on St. Lucia as well as Ladera on the ridge above. I didn't think I'd find a place I'd like more.

I found it.

Gorgeous villa. Private terrace. Plunge pool on each terrace. Wonderful breakfast room service. They had Croque Monsieurs on the breakfast menu and I ordered that each morning. Attentive service and attention to detail. We were only there for 2 nights but I hope to return and stay at least 4.

The most incredible part may have been the views, just steps from our front door. Everything you've seen in Santorini photos? Right there.

Another plus was being just steps away from the beautiful shopping / restaurant area. Mere steps. We were worried about things closing down for the season, but there were still plenty of restaurant and shopping options.

On our arrival night, the hotel recommended the Sphinx restaurant with incredible sunset views. It was wonderful! More details later. On our second night, we were so tired we decided to stay in and not worry about "good sunset views". OMG. Perhaps the prettiest sunset photo I've ever taken was from our terrace. Not of the sun hitting the water (we watched the sun drop behind the Acropolis in the preceding nights) but gorgeous sunset skies.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...226b4625e7.jpg

And then the warm nights in the warmer private plunge pool, just outside our front door.

Amazing.

We let the hotel make the arrangements for a private driver transfer from the airport to the hotel and then again to the ferry on departure morning. Excellent service in every way.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 08:36 AM

I had always planned to stay at the Hilton in Athens, because I have points. I really didn't expect to love the hotel. I LOVED the hotel. I did book an Acropolis view room and was very glad I did. I'm Hilton Diamond so was not surprised (but happy) to learn they upgraded us to the Executive floor with access to the Lounge. Free breakfast in the lounge or restaurant every morning. Afternoon snacks. Drinks throughout the day. Fantastic coffee machine. I was happy to learn that it was closed during an hour window every day so they could clean it. Sometimes I wonder about those huge industrial machines. Great, attentive service. I planned to spend my first day as a pool day and it was warm enough = temps in the 80s. Indoor and outdoor pool. And we learned from our taxi driver days later that the Greek restaurant there was very good.

But on my first night, I ordered pizza and just soaked in the view. On another night, after my friend arrived, we did the same. The hotel has a wonderful rooftop bar and restaurant, but why not take advantage of the view from the balcony for dinner?!

It never got old, seeing the Acropolis lit up at night outside the window - or watching the sunset behind it.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7de3ef2d4a.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fdde79ac9.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f579d8e993.jpg

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 08:40 AM

I planned the first 2/3 of the trip and left it up to my friend to plan the last 1/3. But her schedule was very busy and the logistics of choosing and getting to another island was not easy, so I suggested a visit to Delphi (another suggestion by Challiman) so we returned to Athens and I booked the Crowne Plaza City Centre for the last two nights. Just a normal hotel room, after the previous nights, but a very nice hotel with an attentive staff, and we enjoyed the breakfasts and one dinner in their rooftop restaurant. We opted to take the ferry from Santorini back to Athens, already knowing it would be a long day on the water. It was. We got to peek at islands along the way, but if I were to do it again, I would take a flight and have more time on land. We had suggestions of restaurants to visit, but were both tired so had dinner at the hotel. Memories of trips with my grandmother = long days and Holiday Inn restaurant dinners. The food was very good BTW. :-)

Reasonable rates and good service made it a good night's choice before our day trip to Delphi and the flight out the next day.

We had a delightful taxi driver from the ferry into Athens. He asked about our return flights and we made arranegements for him to return on our last morning to take me for my noon flight and my friend for her 5:30 flight. As it turned out, we both flew out about 5:30, but that's another story/ adventure.

I'll return with more photos and more details of what we did.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 08:49 AM

Here's my previous thread on Fodors, asking about "favorite memories" of Greece -
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...reece-1668530/
Thanks to all who provided suggestions!

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 10:57 AM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 11:18 AM

I honestly don't know how to pick and choose photos to upload. Everywhere we went was just gorgeous. I think our favortes were Mars Hill/ Aeropagus where Paul was said to preach, just below the Parthenon. I didn't upload those photos. The view was stupendous but being there was powerful for both of us. Challiman strongly suggested Delphi, and I'm glad we went, but we both loved the monastery stop along the way as much as Delphi. We both LOVED getting out into the countryside of the mainland, and when I return I plan to spend as much time on the mainland as visiting more islands. I wish that we had time to fit Meteora in, but we didn't. Next time.

The drivers were excellent. For "local" trips, they use their luxury vans/ SUVs. The rates were reasonable IMO. For my friend's arrival, they picked me up at the arranged time at the hotel, we met my friend at the airport and returned to the hotel for just a little bit more than my taking a taxi two ways. Leo looked like Jake Gyllenhaal and was a very nice guy. The drivers are not guides and they make that clear so when you visit an historical site you need to hire a guide inside if that is what you want. My arrival was super early so I contacted PK and got a quote for my pickup at the airport, a day trip to Corinth with a return to the hotel by 3, and it was a perfect way to spend a first day and absolutely no concerns about getting to/from the airport, dealing with luggage, etc. Delightful. The driver for the long day trip to Delphi was a 30 year friend of the owner in his own Mercedes taxi and Constantine was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We loved talking with him - about any number of things. Cotton. US politics. WWII history. Cyprus. Current event and culture. We talked almost all of the way and laughed a lot of the time. My friend was a bit hesitant to use a private driver but she agreed. She loved the experience and the driver. One of the most memorable things he shared with us was the town - and a glimpse of the memorial - where Hitler's army killed every "male element" in the village. Men. Boys. Male dogs, cats, everything.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Massacre_of_Kalavryta
He took us to a wonderful restaurant (I'll describe later) for lunch after the visits and then drove us back to Athens.
One wonderful tip that I am going to take back is the recommendation of the Milos restaurants, including one in Midtown Manhattan and other locations across the world as well. They fly in the fish and other ingredients from Greece daily, from locally sourced vineyards, farms, even the sea salt!
There was one in the Athens Hilton, but we didn't know about it to eat there.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...ns_Attica.html

The first thing I am going to do when planning a return trip is to contact PK and request another day trip with Constantine. He truly was a highlight of our trip. The other drivers were good. He was great!

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 11:24 AM

Meals will be described later, but mostly casual vs fancy, with two nights of room service at the Athens Hilton. Greek pizza for my first night and pizza & pasta for another night. We had two fantastic meals. Again, photos and locations to come later. I need to upload those pics. Overall, we ate very moderately. Free breakfasts at the Hilton Athens and the Canaves Oia on Santorini. A pre-priced breakfast with an extensive buffet (with the best coffee of the trip) at the Crowne Plaza. This was not a foodie trip.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 11:48 AM

ileen

Nov 2nd, 2019 12:17 PM

Starrs--Looks like you had an amazing luxurious vacation. Great hotel, views, food and the private mini pool. Truly lovely.
Thanks for sharing photos too. I think I would love to visit Greece some day, so will save your trip report.
Just curious, any fun shopping there.
What did you wear most days as the weather seems to be just gorgeous for total relaxation.
Have a great weekend basking with memories.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ileen (Post 17010412)

What did you wear most days as the weather seems to be just gorgeous for total relaxation.

The weather was glorious. Hot. Temps in the 80s. So very lucky!

We wore summer clothes. Summer weight tops, capris, etc. I tucked a summer sweater in but didn't wear it.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 02:00 PM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 02:16 PM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 02:28 PM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 03:24 PM

We found a favorite place in the Plaka. We returned several times. The first stop was for drinks and to use the restroom. We said we'd return for dinner but they were surprised to see us. Days later, Irene greeted us like long lost friends when we returned for after dinner drinks (after pizza at the Mystic Pizza and shopping). Enjoyed the drinks, food, friendliness and live Greek music.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c254dc9d24.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f0682e134.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2558c0cfa3.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1aac92380d.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c5d8c7e1c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e545f54e7.jpg

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 03:31 PM

After dinner there one night, we walked to a place we were told we HAD to go!
They were right -
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/gr...-visit-athens/
https://lukumades.com/

We were stuffed but took them "home" and had a modern twist on the traditional Greek donut while looking at the Acropolis from our room. Sweet!

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 03:44 PM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cf0223aaf.jpg
Roadside restaurant with a view
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67bc8e6ec0.jpg
the view
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cbdf9fba2.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28d8f06306.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16e96ad25d.jpg
really good, simple food
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df068b4e61.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0152a6ed4.jpg
And then a drive around Santorini on an ATV

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 03:59 PM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 04:29 PM

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 04:55 PM

I rarely write trip reports. I fade part way through. Loading photos and adding some captions may be all I finish. I'll be happy to answer any questions.

The entire trip was built around staying at Canaves Oia on Santorini. It was as wonderful as I had imagined and I hope to return someday.
The Athens Hilton was the base for Athens because I had points and did a combo that got the rate down to 135 euro per night plus the points. The splurge there was the Acropolis view and it was well "worth it". The wonderful perk was the upgrade to Executive level but that was just a perk. I'd love to stay there again - with the same view.
For the last two nights, I chose a dependable hotel - again with a rate of 135 euros a night. Aside for the splurge hotel, rates were reasonable.

Thanks to Challiman, I used and loved PK Travel for the private drivers and trips to the countryside. That may have been our second favorite thing (after Santorini).

We got the next taxi in line at the ferry from Santorini to Piraeus. We really liked the driver and made arrangements for him to take us to the airport on the last morning (separate trips).

We got around Athens by walking (LOTS of walking) and using the BEAT app to call a taxi. It works like Uber. Really liked it.

Food was good, whether casual or fancy. Prices seemed reasonable, given the venue(s).

The big question mark was how we would spend the Santorini days. MY goal was to just relax on that private terrace with the amazing views. I knew my friend would want to be busier, and go out exploring. On the ride up from the airport, she started talking about how much fun 4 wheeling would be. Didn't appeal to me, but turned out to be the solution. They delivered the ATV to the hotel for 50 euros for 24 hours. It was parked in the private parking lot. She left early to explore the island while I did nothing but relax. I told her I'd go out for a highlights ride later in the afternoon. She returned hungry and thirsty so we set off and stopped at the first roadside option. It was really good. The ride was a lot of fun. I was concerned about being caught too far away and not getting back before sunset, but I decided my plan would be to just get off and take a taxi back home if needed. We drove back roads - well, on an island anything other than the main road is a back road. It was fun and we got to see everyday life kinds of things, like parents meeting kids getting out of school and walking them home. After a late lunch, we only wanted a light dinner (that was more of a snack) and then it was nighttime plunge pool time for me! Really, a dream come true.

It was a wonderful trip. I can't wait to return. I will add more islands and hopefully return in June or early enough to miss the big crowds. We met incredibly nice people everywhere, including / especially on the ferry. I wouldn't change a thing about it, other than adding another day so we would have had time to get to Meteora. At the top of my return list is a day trip with Constantine as the driver! The nice taxi driver's name was the same but went by Cosmos. :-)

It was a great trip, easy going, with no real glitches and a lot of fabulous discoveries. So grateful for such a good trip.

starrs

Nov 2nd, 2019 05:14 PM

Dreams sometimes come true.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fed6972e39.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f2f628d80.jpg

tripplanner001

Nov 2nd, 2019 05:32 PM

Looks and sounds spectacular. I especially love your photos of the Santorini and Acropolis sunsets - magical!

progol

Nov 3rd, 2019 03:42 AM

Fantastic photos and great trip report!

It brought back great memories of our trip several years ago and helpful for a trip planned for next year. Thanks for posting!

Macross

Nov 3rd, 2019 04:00 AM

What great photos. Weare trying for Crete next year. The food looks amazing. You packed in a lot plus a day in Parsi. Bravo.

starrs

Nov 3rd, 2019 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macross (Post 17010710)

...trying for Crete next year.

I would love to go to Crete, but it's so big I know it deserves a lot of time. Maybe after retirement for me.

Those few hours in Paris were a very nice surprise! Thanks to Delta! ((l))
LOTS of airport time though. Well worth it!

MoBro

Nov 3rd, 2019 08:45 AM

Five nights in Athens and only two on Santorini.
Pretty much the opposite of what we did: 3 nights in Athens and 5 on Santorini, which I think is much better.
We were not thrilled with Athens, but needed to stop there both arriving and departing.
Stayed the first two nighst at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, and the last night at the Westin Athens Astir Palace Beach Resort. We didn't want to stay in Athens proper again.

dcd	Nov 3rd, 2019 09:10 AM

starrs, lots of fab pics! Santorini is on the list. Thanks for posting. TRs can be a RPITA, from one who stopped writing them long ago....

kwren

Nov 3rd, 2019 09:56 AM

I bet you knew I'd find this trip report! Lots of great tips for my trip next year!

Nelson

Nov 3rd, 2019 10:03 AM

Thanks for the TR and great photos. Greece is on our shortlist for the next big trip. We have decided we are done with European car rentals (in most cases), so definitely appreciate the PK Travel recommendation. I've got the site saved in my Greece folder now.

cafegoddess

Nov 3rd, 2019 12:17 PM

Beautiful pictures! I think I should consider going to Greece. Thank you for the trip report.

Starrs, I apologize for participating on that thread in the lounge. You are a good negotiator.

Melanie_O

Nov 3rd, 2019 12:20 PM

Still beautiful pictures despite the season. You made the best of the day! Is it already the season for hot chocolate?

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melanie_O (Post 17010956)

Still beautiful pictures despite the season. You made the best of the day! Is it already the season for hot chocolate?

The weather was GORGEOUS! Everyone commented on how lucky we were.
For me, ANY season is the season for hot chocolate! :-)

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cafegoddess (Post 17010954)

Beautiful pictures! I think I should consider going to Greece. Thank you for the trip report.

Starrs, I apologize for participating on that thread in the lounge. You are a good negotiator.

You should! Although I plan to return to add more islands, I'll add more time on the mainland too. We loved the countryside and there's so much to see! Everything was simply gorgeous. I didn't expect to fall in love with Greece, but I did!

Thank you.
Virtually weekly, I'm asked (at the kiosk at checkin) if I'm interested in volunteering to be bumped. When I can, I indicate "yes" and always put $500 as my bid. Most of the time they don't need my seat, or used someone's with a lower bid. But I've gotten $900 for a one hour flight where I was put on a flight only one hour later. Delta's currency is seats. If they want/ need mine, might as well ask for what I want. I'm glad they routed me through Paris per my request. My #2 request was going to be Amsterdam. I can easily stroll around either and enjoy myself. ((l))
Even in the rain!

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nelson (Post 17010922)

I'll still do weekly rentals when I have lots of time. I've enjoyed driving around Ireland (first trip to Europe many years ago), Provence, Tuscany (two Octobers ago), etc. But years ago, I missed the train to Giverny and didn't have enough days to reschecule. On my April trip to Paris, I booked a day trip there (van trip/ group) and LOVED it! Show up to a convenient location in Paris, enjoy someone else do the driving - and back - and it was a lovely day. I could easily use Athens as a base for day trips. This trip turned out that way very accidently. I knew I was arriving a day before my friend but didn't realize her flight the second day was late afternoon. I promised her to wait to explore Athens until her arrival. I planned for a pool day, just to relax from a very busy life schedule, but wasn't going to sit around the pool for two days in Greece! The airport pickup and trip to Corinth was perfect! The day trip to Delphi was marvelous. I could easily use Athens as a base for several nights and use PK Travel for day trips out to different locations on the mainland. I already have a starter list of locations.

Now Constantine is my #1 reason to take more (longer) day trips with him! He was fabulous, as a driver, as a person and as a conversationalist.

I would love to stay multple nights at the Hilton with an Acropolis view and have a starter list of restaurants I'd like to try at night. But then again, we really enjoyed returning to "our friend" Irene at Old Itaki. It was fun to be greeted like an old friend. We enjoyed the location and the music too.

I knew I could trust Challiman's recommendations. We've "known" each other long enough and I've followed her trips enough to know I could count on whatever she said. When she said I should use Paul's Yellow Taxi and go to Delphi, those were givens. I feel the same about Macross' advice. When you've followed their trips for years, you know you have similar travel styles and standards and they are among many Fodorites whose advice I count on without reservations.

This was my friend's first time using a private driver and she was hesitant, but really enjoyed the Delphi day. And I loved using LoveItaly's private driver for the Amalfi coast.

I want to return and do more islands. A family member sailed to many islands on a small ship this summer. I'd like to do that too, but will definitely use PK Travel again for more mainland day trips.

They do trips departing from the ferry at Piraeus if those traveling on cruise ships want to take excursions.

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwren (Post 17010918)

I bet you knew I'd find this trip report! Lots of great tips for my trip next year!

I'm glad you did! We've already "talked" on Facebook, but I highly recommend Oia. SO glad I stayed there! Several posters on the "memories" thread stayed nearby and enjoyed an Oia base as well. It's definitely my #1 choice of location.

We definitely needed more time but you are planning for that already.

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcd (Post 17010895)

starrs, lots of fab pics! Santorini is on the list. Thanks for posting. TRs can be a RPITA, from one who stopped writing them long ago....

dcd, I thought of you on the trip. You would LOVE it!
And this is the first TR I've written in years. I hate them, but decided to "just do it".

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoBro (Post 17010875)

... Hotel Grande Bretagne, and the last night at the Westin Athens Astir Palace Beach Resort....

I don't do Marriotts.

I do Hilton and IHG. I'm either using points (Hilton) or gathering them (Crowne Plaza). I joined the Priority Club the second year they started it. All of my co-workers went to Europe on points that first year because Holiday Inn set the point levels too low on the inaugural year. I was one year "too late" for that! For years, I belonged to every loyalty program (still am) but focus on Hiltons and then IHG if there's only a HIX in a small town or want to stay at an Indigo or former Kimpton (now IHG too).

We only spent 1 day exploring Athens. I definitely want to return to spend more time in Athens. We barely scratched the surface of things to see and do. But loved using Athens hotels as a base for day trips. The schedule for this trip was wonky due to very different travel schedules, but it turned out great. No complaints.

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 03:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by progol (Post 17010703)

Fantastic photos and great trip report!

It brought back great memories of our trip several years ago and helpful for a trip planned for next year. Thanks for posting!

Thanks progol! I'm reading your Italy TR! We had a great 16 day trip there two Octobers ago. Would love to return. Would love to have the amount of time you had for your trip! This Greece trip was way too short but we will return!

starrs

Nov 4th, 2019 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tripplanner001 (Post 17010567)

Looks and sounds spectacular. I especially love your photos of the Santorini and Acropolis sunsets - magical!

Thanks tripplanner! They were magical! Forever memories!

BuffaloGirl

Nov 4th, 2019 05:25 AM

I’m glad you enjoyed your trip. Greece is magical, isn’t it?

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