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A summary of our spin around Spain!
We had the most wonderful three-week trip to Spain this summer and I want to acknowledge right away that this trip report is way overdue!
We were there in July and covered a lot of ground — the first two weeks with friends in the Basque region (Bilbao and San Sebastián were our bases) and Madrid, and then my husband and I were in Malaga and Sevilla for a week. All of us are in our 60s, and relatively fit, so we walked and ate our way through beautiful España. As expected, it was brutally hot in Andalusia. Unexpectedly, not every place was jammed with tourists. In fact, Seville was almost deserted! All in all, we had an amazing time. Before I go any further, let me say that the trip could not have been as wonderful without the guidance from so many. A special and huge thanks to mikelg and Maribel for their advice and many suggestions on restaurant and must-see places, all of them excellent. Rather than describing every day of a long trip in detail, I will attempt to provide a quick overview. Actually, it has turned out to be a long report! An adventurous beginning: We flew non-stop to Madrid from Chicago on Iberia. The service and even the food was surprisingly good. We landed in Terminal 4 and our flight to Bilbao was from Terminal 2. Much to our consternation we found out that the two terminals are not connected — we had to take many escalators to a people mover train, and thought it would lead to Terminal 2, but it only took us to the exit for Terminal 4 and we then had to take an airport bus to Terminal 2. Even though we had 2 hours between flights it was a nail-biting time. We made it to our Air Europa flight with minutes to spare. Bilbao: 3 nights We reached Bilbao around noon and picked up our rental car at the airport from Budget and drove to our apartment in Old Town. Parking was ten minutes away, at the Arenal garage. We were glad to have chosen an economy-sized car because the parking spots, as across Europe, were very tight. We marveled at drivers backing their larger cars into their parking spaces with fluid ease! Years of practice, I assume. We really enjoyed Bilbao even though it was overcast most of time. The small winding streets, the squares full of cafes brimming with people enjoying a drink, and the great architecture made me happy to be back in Spain. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5edafd1d9.jpeg Heart of Old Town https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d88388264.jpeg The new and the old, Bilbao https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...864c333a7.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f470d44b.jpeg The cafe and the cathedral, Bilbao |
Here are a few Bilbao highlights:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5652ea81f.jpeg The Guggenheim’s grey expanse https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...045f08efc.jpeg Puppy! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c67baeeee.jpeg Nara’s children https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0db39f1d.jpeg Mazes, Richard SerraRestaurants: My friend had a bit of a health issue so we were limited in how far we could walk for meals. But we had some memorable ones!
And just sipping wine at a cafe in the shadow of the Cathedral of Saint James and gazing at its majesty made me joyful. You don’t need much to create memorable moments in Spain! |
I’m in for the ride!
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What an amazing trip through Spain! Your journey sounds like such a great mix of experiences, with each stop offering something unique. The Madrid airport adventure definitely had me smiling—European terminals can be challenging!
Bilbao’s Old Town seems charming, with its lively squares and beautiful architecture. And Seville, almost empty in July? That must have been a pleasant surprise. By the Way, Where did you stay during your time in Spain? Any favorite accommodations you'd recommend? |
Thanks for your pictures of my hometown, we do have a beautiful (and yet, quite unknown for many) old quarter, Bilbao has much more than just the Guggenheim. Just one point, it´s not "tapas" here, they are a different concept, it´s "pintxos" and it´s just another world...
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Thanks everyone for reading along! The next installment coming soon!
margaretjones — we stayed in apartments in Bilbao, San Sebastián and Madrid. I booked them through Booking.com and Airbnb. It made more sense since we were 2 couples. In Andalusia we stayed in hotels. Watch this space for more! mikelg — thanks for all your help again as we planned our trip. I am embarrassed I called pintxos tapas, especially after eating so many in Bilbao and San Sebastián. I will endeavor to correct my post! And yes, there is more to Bilbao than the Guggenheim for sure. But since we had just one day there, we wandered the city and the museum. Definitely would have loved to stay longer! joannyc — glad you are on board for the ride! |
A day trip to Rioja
It was an easy one-hour drive from Bilbao to Haro, at the mouth of the Rioja region. The terrain went from green to red as we drove to our first stop — the Muga winery. I had purchased tickets for the 10 a.m. wine tour in advance but other folks trickled in and bought them on the spot. The winery is a marvelous blend of tradition and new technology, and we were amused to see the simple contraption they use to break hundreds of eggs by hand during season to lace the maturing wine with a filter of egg whites. The yolks? They are perfect for rich Spanish desserts like flan! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b90e78d86.jpeg Aged wooden wine barrels. Muga. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34567922e.jpeg Sampling the wine Muga is the only winery in the area to make their own oak barrels and the tour included a look at their cooperage. We were fascinated by how long and difficult the process is for crafting a barrel: buying the oak at auctions in France, US and now Hungary is highly competitive and then drying and weathering it takes years. The wines we tasted at the end of the tour were spectacular and our tour guide gave us unlimited samples. We even got to say hello to the private winery’s owner! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3c3f5ea4.jpeg At the cooperage Muga is in the famed Barrio de la Estación, where several other historic wineries are located, and we wandered into a few. Perhaps it was too early in the day but the area was absolutely dead and in any case, after the generous pours at Muga we did not need more wine. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d689995bb.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...759febdb5.jpeg More wine and wineries, Barrio de la Estación. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fd02e116.jpeg The heart of Haro https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...311e8f3b4.jpeg So after soaking up the atmosphere for a while, we drove into the heart of Haro for lunch at Alboroque. Thanks again Maribel for a great recommendation — I did tell Laura you sent us! The tiny restaurant was empty when we arrived at opening time, but filled up after a while and soon Laura was turning folks away. Laura single-handedly served guests while her husband cooked, and she never faltered. We had cod croquettes, mushrooms and truffles risotto, beef carpaccio, and Iberian steak. The star of the meal was oxtail, a meat I tasted for the first time. It was tender and so flavorful in its wine sauce. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c2af68dd.jpeg Oxtail in a red wine sauce https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86367c6ea.jpeg Croquettes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5f108f38.jpeg Carpaccio After the very leisurely lunch we drove to Laguardia. Thanks to guidance frommikelg and Maribel I had reserved spots at 4 pm to see the church of Santa María de los Reyes and its polychrome portico. The arch of the portico is carved in stone with stunningly painted sculptures of Mary and the disciples. The paint is very well preserved because the portico has been sheltered for centuries, and its vividness is breathtaking. You need an advance reservation to attend the 15-minute talk and again, we saw a few people being turned away. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbeceeec3.jpeg The stunning portico https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5105b7ac.jpeg The cute town clock strikes the hour, Laguardia https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6807e2918.jpeg Narrow, deserted streets, Laguardia https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...693ed96b9.jpeg The town with its stone walls. From here it was a mad dash through quaint streets to our 5 p.m. reservation at Casa Primicia, another recommendation from Maribel and mikelg. The winery, the oldest building in Laguardia, has centuries-old cellars and huge stone tanks used by monks to make wine. Wine skins hung in the now-empty tanks, a reminder of how wine was toted from door to door to be sold by the liter. What a complete contrast to Muga! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52f2b3304.jpeg Wine skins, Casa Primicia https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4317ee7de.jpeg Ancient cellars, Casa Primicia https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1de952cb3.jpeg Tanks the monks used for winemaking. Casa Primicia https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19f354a2d.jpeg Lush landscape https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad84ad56a.jpeg A way to enter Laguardia https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2236c5608.jpeg Here’s to wine! Mural, Laguardia Almost every house in Laguardia has a cellar — an escape route for the King of Navarre when needed to flee enemies. The walled town is replete with history — and wine! On our way back to Bilbao, we stopped to see the winery designed by Salvatore Calatrava, Bodegas Ysios, from the outside. The undulating roof, resembling wine bottles, is in harmony with its surroundings. On the other hand, seen from a distance, Marques de Riscal, the Frank Gehry-designed winery, seemed like a purple spaceship nestled among sedate buildings. Narrow one-way streets, some wrong turns and then a blinding rain compelled us to give up getting any closer to the winery, and head back to Bilbao instead. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94b40d4f6.jpeg Bodegas Ysios We only had a tiny taste of the Rioja region, and of Bilbao. If we had more time, we would have loved to stay in this fertile area for a lot longer. |
Loving your TR! I really enjoyed spending a couple of nights each in Haro and Laguardia and driving around the area.
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Beautiful pictures, and thanks for sharing them! As a side note, Ysios (which takes its name from Ysis and Osiris, the Egiptian deities, something found quite strange by Rioja dwellers...) had lots of issues with water infiltration and damaged barrels. Another of the many faulty developments by Santiago Calatrava (among others, Zubizuri bridge in Bilbao...and also the airport, but that´s another story). Marqués de Riscal is built in a semi-hidden manner and it´s quite complicated to see it from a distance, and they do not let you get close to its entrance if you are not a guest of the hotel, so you did not have many chances of seeing it, really. Rioja (not to be mistaken with La Rioja) offers many attractions (prehistoric settlements, dolmens, walled towns...), not only wine, but even if you are a wine connoisseur you probably have not seen the centuries-old wine cellars that are so commonly found in Rioja.
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Fascinating report, thanks.
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joannyc and Adelaidean thanks for following along. mikelg I had read about the issues surrounding the Zubizuri bridge and experienced one first hand. When we walked across the bridge it was raining and the bridge was slippery. They had put down a matting on the surface to prevent falls but if you were not on it, you could easily slip. Such a shame — both the bridge and the winery are such pretty structures, but clearly with challenges.
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San Sebastián: 5 days
What a slice of heaven! We rented a very nice two-bed 2-bath apartment through Booking.com on Urbieta Kalea, a 4-minute walk to a parking lot, 10 minutes to Concha beach, 15 minutes to Old Town, next door to a bakery and Carrefour, and a plaza packed with cafes. This was to be our base as we explored this beautiful city and also for several day trips. It was busier here than in Bilbao but not oppressively so. The sea breeze cooled the city and walking was a pleasure, especially in the evening. And the food!! Restaurant highlights — Rekondo was absolutely superb. Perched high over the city, with views of Concha beach, the vine-lined porch looked like a movie set. And the food, the service and the ambiance were just top notch. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85ed5a792.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dfead2b7.jpeg The view from Rekondo and a pretty Salmorejo We had Salmorejo, a cold tomato soup, and grilled shrimp for appetizers. As in Los Fueros, the shrimp were large and sweet, and the soup a specialty of the region. For my main I had crab baked in a butter and tomato sauce — the waitress said it was a rich dish but she would take it back if I did not like it. I licked the shell clean! My husband had the hake and our friends had the tuna and a salad. All loved their choices. We ended the meal by splitting canutillo pastries — puff pastry horns filled with rich cream with a dollop of iecream. All this, plus a bottle of wine and beer was about $170 per couple. A steal when compared to American prices! Ganbarra: it took us two tries to get into this pintxos temple. The first night, because we went 30 minutes after they opened, the line snaked for a few blocks and the wait was more than an hour. We gave up and went to Tamboril instead. This Michelin-recommended eatery was crowded and just okay. The next night we came a few minutes before Ganbarra opened and the wait was “only” 15 minutes. We had a host of pintxos, including their famed mushroom carpaccio and this Michelin-starred eatery did not disappoint. La Vina: we stopped here for lunch and had wonderful pintxos including a Russian salad with tuna and padrone peppers, ending with their famed cheesecake. It was soft as a cloud and deceptively light — after a few bites you feel it settling down in your stomach like cement. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebcccb197.jpeg Mushrooms, Ganbarra https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dea934a7.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eb2661e3.jpeg Time for cider! We also sampled pintxos at several other places that I would recommend — Cuchara de San Telmo, Bar Sport, La Espiga, and Casa Valles, to name a few. Creative, fresh pintxos everywhere, and every bite was an adventure! A Sampling of Sights The Beach!Concha beach was full of happy tourist, local families, and a few artists creating elaborate sand designs. It was absolutely fabulous to swim in the warm water, with mountains, villas and yachts lacing the bay. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...856d9500b.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b55485c7.jpeg There were clean restrooms and showers along the beach, and on the promenade a young man was singing Clapton’s ‘Wonderful Tonight.’ A few steps away a flamenco troupe was performing. The afternoon is one of my happiest memories from the trip! San Telmo Museum: We enjoyed the museum very much. The history and artifacts of the Basque people, the massive black and gold murals by Josep Sert, the 16th century cloisters, and a special exhibition of Chillida’s works, again introduced me to different artists. Afterwards a climb up Monte Urgull afforded panoramic views of the city’s glamorous beach and old town. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e69dd96b3.jpeg Huge paintings by Sert, San Telmo Museum https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57b5f5468.jpeg Cloisters, San Telmo Museum https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21054144b.jpeg Glorious views from Monte Urgull Churches: We love ducking into churches and stumbled across San Vincent near the San Telmo museum. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfc325a73.jpeg The Buen Pastor Cathedral https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e85bc971d.jpeg The Buen Pastor Cathedral, closer to our apartment, is a city highlight. Both the Gothic churches were beautiful, replete with history, stained glass, art and flying buttresses. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fc756f69.jpeg Nightfall, San Sebastián https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e33324722.jpeg City Hall at dusk |
Day trips from San Sebastián:
Pamplona We had signed up with Ikusnahi Tours to take us to Pamplona to experience the Festival of San Fermin. Seeing the Running of the Bulls had been on my friend’s bucket list for years, and was the only reason we visited Spain in the high, hot season. Sorry I missed meeting you there, Maribel A driver picked us up at 5.30 am at our apartment and we were in Pamplona an hour later. The city was still drowsy and some young revelers lay on benches in its central square, sleeping off the effects of the previous night. I had read how dirty the center could be because of the non-stop partying that week but it was surprisingly clean — crews with big machines were regularly washing the streets, first-aid booths and port-a-potties were set up in neat rows. Our guide took us to our spot — a balcony on the third floor of a building with a clear view of the action. Soon the atmosphere turned festive as folks in white outfits and red scarves lined the streets and filled the balconies along the route. Barricades were put up. Our hosts offered a breakfast of rubbery Spanish omelette and strong coffee. The runners below us were warming up. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce6ad1a4d.jpeg Clean streets, sleepy people. Pamplona https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a6faeff0.jpeg The first run https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...537b0ea31.jpeg The second run The first run — without any bulls — was by a wave of amateurs whose only intention was to get free entry to the bullring by participating. Our guide encouraged us to boo them, as is the tradition. The serious run started at 8 a.m. and in less than two minutes it was over — the bulls thundered down the cobbled street below us, men ran ragged as they dodged horns and hoofs, some followed them, and one person was injured, though not seriously. To be honest, it was fun but also a bit of a blur. Our hosts watched the whole run on TV. And we joined them to see the reruns while catching our breath from all the excitement. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d25b98ce.jpeg The venerable cafe https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bda97e7b4.jpeg Party, Pamplona https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75018baaf.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a79c4f0f3.jpeg The bullring https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02a81cc0f.jpeg The bulls Afterwards, our guide took us to Cafe Iruna, once frequented by Hemingway. Some of the characters in his 1926 novel “The Sun Also Rises” met here each day and the novel put Pamplona and the festival on the map. Only the main room of the cafe and the patio was open for business and was pleasantly busy. We easily found a table in the sun and tried pacharan, a spirit made with anise and sloe berries. The tour included a wander across town, which was full of revelry, and a look at the where the bulls start and end the run. The bullring was already filling up with eager spectators and the amateur runners for the fight later that day. We were back in San Sebastián by noon. |
You probably already know, Iruña is the Basque name of Pamplona.
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What a lovely report with wonderful photos!
I love the sleepy people on the clean streets photo!! I've never been to Rioja but I know now I need to go, soon! Thank you! Also, Mikelg, I never knew that Irina was the name of Pamplona so thank you as well!! |
There are so many good photos on the thread. I know many of these places and been to cafe Iruña in Pamplona a few times. If the photo is of the second bullrun it must have been the Cebada Gago bullranch run.
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Sorry: Iruna, with accent mark above the ¨n.¨
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Hi mikelg — Our guide did tell us that Iruña is the Basque name for Pamplona. But thanks for the reminder.
ekscrunchy I am happy you liked the sleepy people and are inspired to visit Rioja! Your suggestions about Seville restaurant were great and we visited a couple of them (coming up in this thread!) Northcoast glad you liked the photos and are following along! |
Day trips from San Sebastián:
French Basque towns Our day trip to Bayonne, St. Jean de Luz and Hondarribia showed us what summer tourism really means. All the three towns were charming but packed to the gills. We spent countless minutes circling parking lots to find a place to park in all the towns but were rewarded by visiting the magnificent cathedral in Bayonne, walking the promenade at St Jean de Luz, and seeing the gothic church where Louis XIV wed the infanta Marie Teresa in 1660. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...176e06371.jpeg The magnificent Bayonne Cathedral https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...335c94684.jpeg Packed beach, St Jean de Luz https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...699ea4699.jpeg Church altar, St Jean the Luz But road closures and summer traffic made driving and parking hellacious. We did stop at Hondarribia on our way back but by then we were wilted by the heat and can’t say we fully appreciated the quaint town or its beach. Not one of our most successful travel days. Lourdes My husband has been wanting to see the Sanctuary of our Lady of Lourdes for years and since it was only a 2.5-hour drive from San Sebastián, we decided to make the journey. This was the day after our foray into the overcrowded French Basque towns so we braced for large crowds but were very pleasantly surprised. It was a beautiful sunny day, not terribly hot, and the drive was pretty, along well marked roads. The parking near the main church complex was plentiful. Our parking spot was just a 10-minute walk across the bridge and through a gauntlet of trinket stores to the sanctuary. There were many pilgrims, of course, but the site is so huge that there was never a crowd anywhere. Volunteers from many countries were there to guide and help at every step. The enormous sanctuary, with its three basilicas and the small grotto of Massabielle where the apparitions occured, was moving and stunning in equal measure, especially the mosaics that depicted the annunciation, Christ’s crucifixion and ascension. A Canadian lady, one of the millions that visit the site every year, told me she comes here on an annual pilgrimage, and stays a few days to attend the morning and evening processions that take place. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b3b21131.jpeg The Sanctuary, Lourdes https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d17b5b800.jpeg The golden cross https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef8762ed5.jpeg The Sanctuary interior https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...366a0de35.jpeg The intricate and moving mosaics https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e194bfae.jpeg A full view of the Sanctuary The famous baths, where pilgrims could immerse themselves in the water springing from the grotto in hopes of a cure, have been closed since COVID. Instead, we lined up at taps by the grotto and drank the water. Many pilgrims were filling large plastic containers to take home. We then joined the short line to walk through the grotto itself. We also climbed the small hill next to the complex to see the sombre life-sized wooden statues detailing Christ’s walk with the cross on the way to his crucifixion. They were as moving as the Sanctuary. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad65ba66f.jpeg The Grotto https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae44a02e0.jpeg Christ’s walk with the cross. After a quick late lunch of steak and pomme frites (we were in France after all!) and an excellent crepe with Amaretto at a cafe on the way to our car, we headed back to San Sebastián. Before entering the city we stopped in the small town of Astigarraga for some cider. I had read about the cider culture in the Basque region and was eager to sample some. My husband gamely drove up the hill, navigating country roads, searching for the big cider houses including Sagardotegi Zeharra. Their websites indicated they were open but it turned out only their lodges were. Maybe something was lost in the translation but we were told by a brisk lady that they were closed for the season. We found Bar Kizki in the center of town. It was a far cry from the barrel-lined cider houses I had seen in pictures, but it was fun to see how the beverage is poured. It is definitely an acquired taste! And since it was a rainy afternoon there were hardly any other patrons, and just olives and a few pintxos were on offer. But I am glad we made the stop. It was good to return to San Sebastián after a long day! |
Cider season (not carbonated and no sugar added, it's totally natural) starts on the second week of January and ends in May, when many cider houses close. But some remain open and it's a great experience.
Pity you could not visit Hondarribia properly, it's old town is a real jewel, a great visit of a medieval area |
Madrid: 4 days with a stop in Burgos
We drove to Madrid from San Sebastián. Given the ridiculous summer plane fares, the 5-hour drive made sense. Plus, we could stop in Burgos to see the spectacular Gothic cathedral, something I had wanted to visit for a long time. We left San Sebastián at about 10 a.m. and were in Burgos three hours later. As usual we got lost when searching for parking, always an opportunity to see more of the town than you intended! After parking the car and a quick lunch of kebabs in the city center, we walked through an ornate arch and entered the cathedral’s square, amazed by the size of the building. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e9c8f619.jpeg The magnificent Burgos cathedral https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66886aea0.jpeg The star dome The UNESCO World Heritage monument is jaw-dropping with superb Gothic architecture, the interior flush with fabulous painted ceilings, ornate alter pieces, carved altar seats and choir stalls, a beautiful dome with mudejar style details, and rooms with exquisite religious art. The entry ticket includes an audio tour in English which was very helpful. It was one of the most spectacular cathedrals I have visited and I felt drenched in beauty by the time I was done, and awed by the dedication of the artisans who had worked for centuries to complete this masterpiece. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d5f03061.jpeg Rich altar https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec7be60da.jpeg Elaborate resting places https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ed04bce8.jpeg Gold glitters The drive to Madrid was uneventful and we reached our apartment in the Barrio de Las Letras late in the evening. It had been hard to find a 2-bedroom 2-bath place in the neighborhood but we eventually found an Airbnb rental on Calle Gobernador. My husband and I hastened to return our car to Enterprise at Atocha station while our friends visited the neighborhood grocery store to stock up on a few essentials. We were set for our stay in this lovely city! Madrid Restaurant Highlights Bodega Amores A 5-minute walk from our apartment, this hip eatery was lively and fun, with great food and service to boot. We had oxtail in a sherry sauce, smoked mussels, patatas bravas (for the first time during this trip!), tomato bread, lots of wine, two cocktails, and a thick flan with tonka bean, all for $100 for the 4 of us! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02605511f.jpeg A luscious tomato salad, https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da7011d8c.jpeg BlackBerry and grape gazpacho, La Mandica de Azagra https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73f0c3a61.jpeg Patisserie Motteau https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09cd02746.jpeg Flan with tonka bean ice cream, Bodega Amores La Manduca de Azagra Another stellar meal and recommendation! The refined restaurant had a quiet ambiance and very warm service. We were lucky enough to be in Madrid when Spain was celebrating its Euro Cup win, and a huge parade down Calle de Sagasta, where the restaurant is situated, made it impossible for our taxi to enter the street. We got out and walked and soaked in the jubilant atmosphere along the way — and were late for our reservation by 30 minutes. But the staff — including the owner’s daughter— was very understanding and soon had us seated to a wonderful meal. The restaurant is known for its fresh vegetables and we had a sensational gazpacho with grape and blackberries, tender leeks fried in butter, white beans with vegetables, ham croquettes, oxtail and fish. A couple at a table near us seemed to be on the verge of a break up — the woman in her elegant silver dress stalking out of the dining room and returning many times, the man clearly crushed. It was like watching an opera at a beautiful restaurant. We ended the meal with torrija and ice cream, and were served complimentary home-made pacharans. It was one of the most delicious meals of our trip. El Sur de Moratin We browsed the menu at the top-rated and recommended Moratin close to our apartment but my friend did not see many vegetarian options so we went to El Sur de Moratin, a more informal spot with a larger menu. The small main area was packed but after a short wait we were shown a table downstairs. That room had several empty tables but around 9 p.m. everything was full. An hour later, so were we. The food was good but not as spectacular as at some of the other restaurants we had visited, but it was a nice place for a casual meal. Motteau pastelería For breakfast one day we went to this tiny bakery — a 5-minute walk from our apartment — and were rewarded with flaky almond croissants, rich cappuccino and a cannale — the owner-baker is French by way of Argentina and loves making these treats from the Bordeaux region. It was fun to chat with him and to see the bakers at work in the open kitchen. San Anton Market We reached this market one day at 3.30 p.m., ravenous after a lot of sightseeing. Most of the stalls were closed for the afternoon but we found one open on the first floor. An excellent lunch of ceviche, quinoa salad and wine followed. I love markets like these and based on the website, it looked like this one was open until late but unlike the more touristy San Miguel Mercado, it closed for a siesta! |
Truly lovely report and photos. I'm glad you visited, and enjoyed LA MANDUCA DE AZAGRA. I think it's among the most solid restaurant choices I've dined at in Madrid. I wish I had had the time to return last week but it will always be on my list. Stunning space, too!
You have a wonderful appreciation for the details of the churches/cathedrals that make my knowledge pale by comparison. One day you will have to get to Valencia, where yesterday we visited the church of San Nicolas, known as the "Sistine Chapel of Valencia!" I was also moved by the sculpture in Lourdes of Christ's walk to the cruxifixction; I did not know that this was part of the experience of Lourdes where I have never been. |
ekscrunchy thank you for your kind words. I am glad you are enjoying the report. We went to La Manduca because of your recommendation when I was looking for advice for this trip, and it was great! And yes, on our next trip to Spain we will definitely visit Valencia. There is an old song about how the city is full of orange trees and guitars. Don’t know if that still holds true.
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Madrid: A day trip, museums and flamenco!
Avila and Segovia Seeing these two ancient towns was one of the many highlights of our stay in Madrid. We took a bus tour with Fun and Tickets based on excellent reviews on Viator. Many others had done the same, and two huge packed tour buses left Madrid at 9 a.m. Our first stop was Avila. We saw Bernini’s electrifying sculpture,‘The Ecstasy of St. Teresa’ in Rome several years ago, and it had put Avila, the saint’s birthplace, on the map for me. We were quickly divided into smaller groups and our English-speaking guide provided a wonderful overview of the medieval walled city. We visited several churches and the cathedral, saw the saint’s home and relics, walked by the imposing walls, and even had time for the famous bean soup for lunch. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b297ca35.jpeg The walls of Avila https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abe8ee03f.jpeg St. Teresa https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cb7c516d.jpeg The cathedral of Avila Then we drove to majestic Segovia, with its medieval Alcazar; the castle was one of the inspirations for Disney’s Cinderella Castle. The lavishly coffered ceilings, the crenelated towers and the elaborate moat have awed visitors since the 12th century. Queen Isabella I took refuge in the castle until she was crowned queen of Castile in this town. Christopher Columbus later came here to meet her husband, King Ferdinand. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d06ac5a4f.jpeg The Alcazar https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4db01d5cf.jpeg The Throne Room https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7441e70bf.jpeg A view of Segovia, with cathedral towers https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64b03562f.jpeg The medieval town of Segovia https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...992b6bb78.jpeg Decorated facades, Old Town Another awesome sight was Segovia’s 2,000-year old Roman aqueduct, which rises up to greet you as you enter the city. Unlike the equally amazing Pont du Gard in France, this massive structure is right in the town center and is the backdrop of its daily life, including music concerts and markets. Though the aqueduct is mighty, its many 100-foot arches are slender and melt away into the hills surrounding the city, towards the Frio river. The ancient structure transported water from this river into the city until 1950! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31e21b7cf.jpeg As we wandered the small streets of the lovely old town, I was bewitched by the facades of many of the houses. While each varies in size, composition, and geometry, the mosaics are intricate and elegant, a legacy of the Moors who lived here from the early 8th to the late 11th centuries, when the city was re-settled and repopulated by Christians under Alfonso VI of León and Castile. The water pipes that run underground, the courtyards and the fountains are also a reminder that Moors once ruled Segovia, and before them the Romans. So many layers of fascinating history in one small town! We visited Segovia’s cathedral; while grand and imposing on the outside, it seemed dark and uninviting inside, and paled in comparison to the one we had seen in Burgos. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cc1a8446.jpeg Segovia’s cathedral We left Segovia at 5 p.m. and were back in Madrid 1.5 hours later. The Prado How can you visit Madrid and not go to the Prado? We have been to the massive museum twice before so decided to use the free evening entry to revisit some favorites. I had read the museum is free from 6-8 p.m. every day, but then saw that because we were visiting on a Sunday, it was free from 5-7 p.m. We rushed there from our apartment at 4.30 p.m. to get in line — fortunately a short one — and were in an hour later. Seeing Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez and Caravaggio’s David and Goliath was like meeting old friends on a whirlwind visit. As mentioned, we were in Madrid when Spain was playing England at the Euro Cup Finals and we walked to a small bar to see the match. There were no huge crowds on the roads or at the bar — the waitress said most Spaniards watch at home with family and friends. It was fun in any case to have some tapas and vino while cheering Spain. Spain won, of course! The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum This was my first visit to this staggering museum, one of the most important and complete private art collections in the world. The museum was free, it being a Monday, and the audio guide (5 euros) added greatly to the visit. We were dazzled by the room after room full of masterpieces, from Gothic altarpieces to Rothko, and ran out of time to see everything we had wanted. The museum has shorter hours on Monday. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f23e1df3.jpeg Caravaggio https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ce5f682e.jpeg Picasso paints a harlequin — or is it himself? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8fb5d8b5f.jpeg An early Kandinsky The Royal Collection Highlights of treasures owned by the various dynasties that ruled Spain are showcased in this relatively new museum. Having seen the adjacent palace during prior visits, this was a good option to take in the rich history and the riches commissioned and amassed by the Hapsburgs and Bourbons. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cef840e4.jpeg Velazquez : A White Horse https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ddabced0.jpeg The building itself is sleek and modern, with ramps leading to floors replete with tapestries, suits of armor, jewels and paintings by the masters. One floor showcases the history of Madrid and its ancient walls, a moving exhibit. I had wanted to see the Sorolla Museum— I am not familiar with his work and was looking forward to discovering it and his house, but unfortunately, the museum was temporarily closed — I needed an excuse to visit Madrid again, and here it was! Flamenco! Corral de la Moreria This venerable tablao was packed with tourists, most here for dinner as well as the show. I had gone with great expectations and left a tad disappointed. Waiters were weaving in and out of the room constantly, serving patrons their food, and the stage was far from our table. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f052c9322.jpeg That said, the flamenco, with two skilled dancers, several singers and an energetic guitar, was very good. Later in Seville we saw a show in a much smaller setting and to me, that was more electric. Our time in Madrid flew by, and it was time to say goodbye to our friends who were heading back home to Chicago. We had more to go — Andalusia beckoned. |
My favorite work in the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum is the portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni. IMO, this portrait (circa 1489) is the Mona Lisa of Madrid.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7dd5f94c9.jpg |
Let me say that I love your excellent skills for photography.
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Velazquez's White Horse painting is in my opinion one of the most remarkable Velazquez paintings. A white horse, a saddle without a rider. Dark background. There must be interpretations but one just wonders what did Velazquez try to tell with that. A white horse with empty saddle. Year 1634.
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Loving your TR! I’m reliving all the places I’ve visited on my trips. Thanks! Spain is my favorite country.
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Thanks mikelg for your compliment. Pictures do say a thousand words, don’t they?
Northcoast I too was mesmerized by Velasquez’s white horse. Riderless and rearing, the animal has majesty but also a bit of confusion. All the paintings I have seen of this court painter have featured people, especially noble subjects, so this made the painting all the more powerful. joannyc — Spain is my favorite country too! We can’t wait to go back! Thanks for reading. |
reddy2go2, I am enjoying your Spain report! It's one of my favorite countries. We've been twice but have not yet visited San Sebastian. We spent a lot of time at the Prado and Reina Sofia but we didn't have time for the Thyssen or the Sorolla. If we ever return to Madrid, those 2 museums are on my "must see" list!
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Malaga
We sadly said goodbye to Madrid and to our friends and took an early morning train from Atocha to Malaga. There was quite a bit of security to get through the gate to the tracks. We had to put our bags through an x-ray machine and get wanted. Passports and tickets were checked. One teenager had an antique rifle in his bag and that held up the line. We were glad we had gone to the station early. Three hours later we were in Malaga and took a cab to our hotel. The ICON Malabar, though expensive, was comfortable and had a good breakfast. It was also close to most of the sights we wanted to see The city, with its palm-lined avenues, its buzzing harbor, its Roman ruins, its massive cathedral and the towering Alcazaba showed us its many facets — the ancient and the modern, Christian and Muslim, touristy yet residential, traditional yet the birthplace of Picasso. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...436437b05.jpeg Malaga’s palm-lined streets https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12d5bb7e4.jpeg Roman ruins Malaga sights We visited the medieval Cathedral and the very modern Picasso Museum the first day of our stay, which again showed how diverse Malaga’s offerings are. By now I was Cathedral-ed out but I really enjoyed the museum. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2a91669d.jpeg Cathedral tower, Malaga https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...236a9b2f1.jpeg Cathedral dome https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68e9a1567.jpeg Picasso Museum https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d51dc75b.jpeg Woman in green https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7155efed6.jpeg Pottery designed by Picasso The building, with its open courtyard, is beautiful and cooling. We bought tickets online at the museum itself and there was no wait. Maybe the 100 degree day kept people away? Every room, showcasing journals, sculptures, paintings, and even pottery, has helpful information about Picasso, his progression as an artist, and the many forms, media and styles he fearlessly explored. The next day we devoted to exploring the Alcazaba, walking up to the Castle of Gibralfaro, and wandering the Old Town. It was a long, hot day! There was a short line to buy combined tickets for tge Alcazaba and the castle, and they were very reasonable. The Alcazaba took my breath away. Much like the beauty of the Alhambra, its graceful walkways, elegant archways, bubbling fountains and green gardens speak to the genius of Moorish architecture, always seeking to create paradise on earth. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e55be6e7.jpeg Walking the Alcazaba https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a22225743.jpeg Delicate doorways https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e273c3ecc.jpeg The views from the top The marble patios and the scrolled pillars give a glimpse of the elegant splendor enjoyed by the Nasrid rulers. There were many look out points to gaze on the views below of the shimmering city — the blue water dotted with yachts and cruise ships, several green parks, the proud cathedral. The heat intensified as the day wore on and the drinking fountains sprinkled around the Alcazaba were very welcome! The walk up to the castle, perched on top of the Gibralfaro mountain, was brutal in the simmering heat. This was the defense the Moors built in the 14th century to guard the city against the Catholic Kings. A walled corridor connected the Alcazaba with the Gibralfaro and allowed soldiers to move safely from one place to another. From the Alcazaba, they could access the city and harbour. Soldiers in cool sentry stations on a high terrace could peer into the horizon to detect enemy activity. Little else remains of the castle but the glorious views. Our legs sore from the climb, we took a taxi from the top to a Thai restaurant for a delicious beer and lunch. Apart from the major sites, we enjoyed many of the everyday ones. One of my favorite places in the city was the fish market. I have never seen so many stalls full with such a variety of fresh fish. I wish I had an apartment here so I could cook all this delectable seafood! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a775dced.jpeg Fish! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe869926e.jpeg Sweet seafood! We also loved Malaga’s Old Town. The narrow streets and big squares full of happy diners, the brightly colored buildings and pedestrian streets were absolutely charming. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c4a67ce9.jpeg Old Town at night https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33875eb0f.jpeg Happy diners amid beautiful buildings https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b9b5e3c8.jpeg We also walked to the beach one morning, crossing the harbor crammed with super yachts. The sky was overcast and a dull grey so there were few sunbathers around at Playa de la Malagueta. We had a train to catch that afternoon so did not stay long. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53ac99bd2.jpeg Deserted beach https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...940836da0.jpeg Super yachts docked in the harbor Malaga Restaurants This was our least favorite city when it came to food. We had such glorious meals in San Sebastián and Madrid (and soon would in Seville). Malaga just did not measure up. Anyway Wine Bar: Tucked away at one end of the harbor, this small bar has great wines and a small menu mainly focused on charcuterie. We were there at 6.30 pm for our reservation. The place was empty and the service attentive. The waiter helped us select wine and two cheeses. We had fried Iberico ham with it. The bar is highly recommended but perhaps because it lacked a buzzy vibe that evening, we left slightly disappointed. La Cosmopolita: This Michelin-starred eatery dished out our worst meal in Spain. The service was terrible — our waitress was from the UK and told us sweetbreads were cheeks of lamb. Wanting to try something new, and excited by the oxtail discovery I had made earlier in our trip — I ordered it. My husband had crab. Both were cold, salty and overpriced. Sweetbread, I later discovered, is pancreas, so it was gamey and spongy. I will never order it again. The restaurant was busy and we had a small outdoor table. We could see happy diners at several restaurants around us and wished we could join them! To add insult to injury the restaurant charged us a huge tip — far more than what my husband had directed— and we had to get that corrected once we saw the receipt. An unfortunate experience all around. El Pimpli: We stopped for a quiet bite one afternoon at this famed eatery. There were tables available only on the patio and we snagged one. We shared a spicy shrimp dish with a rich sauce, and some stuffed mushrooms. Both were good, especially when washed down with a cold sangria. Casa Mira: On a hot day, there is nothing quite like ice cream! Obviously everyone in the city agreed with me and this ice cream store was packed to the gills. Intrigued by the crowd we joined in, and were told by one of the customers that is place is a Malaga institution for helados. The flavors on offer went from common to exotic and I had scoops of pistachio and wine ice cream. Wonderful and ah, so cool! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9eaf6eb91.jpeg Ice cream heaven! After two nights here it was time to take a train to our next and final stop — Seville! |
KarenWoo glad you are enjoying this TR. I read your report about your stay in Andalusia when planning this trip and it was so helpful!
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Love your TR-thanks for all the useful details and great photos. What a marvelous trip. I enjoyed reliving experiences of some wonderful places I’ve visited and learning about new places to visit now added to my ever-growing list.
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studenttobe - so glad this TR is helpful, and brings back good memories!
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Seville: 4 days
We took the afternoon train to Seville from Malaga, and a taxi to Hotel Posada del Lucero. I can’t say enough good things about this hotel. The hospitality was warm, our room and bathroom big and clean, the breakfast excellent. After champagne, a fabulous Spanish omelette, a variety of ham, and luscious fruit along with many other treats, we did not need lunch. It was my husband’s birthday while we were there so they sent a bottle of bubbly to our room too! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ecab8d87.jpeg Hotel lobby Importantly, the hotel was on the edge of the center, very close to the Setas de Seville, and a short walk to all the attractions. Seville Sights Sevilla was surprisingly deserted as we joined our guide, the excellent Marina from Seville Walking Tours, the morning after our arrival, for a walking tour of the city, plus a guided tour of the Alcazar. Marina thought the brutal heat the previous summer had scared visitors away. A case in point: we were the only ones on the walking tour and throughly enjoyed our ramble across the old city center: a building, formerly a prison, where Cervantes was locked up for a few years; the Jewish quarter replete with orange trees; the shops to go to for hats, fans, and dresses for the Féria de Abril; and so much more. The Alcazar It was 104 degrees that day so ducking into the Alcazar with Marina for the tour at noon was very welcome. The palace was busy with tourists but again, Marina said that the crowd was not as intense as a typical July. Lucky us! We had to show copies of our passports, along with our timed tickets, to enter the complex. This was our second visit to the Alcazar — we had been here in 2015 — and it was mesmerizing all over again. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...499b527ca.jpeg The entrance https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d4430d6d.jpeg The site, originally a palace complex built and expanded by various Moor dynasties, was progressively replaced with new palaces and gardens after the Castilian conquest of the city in 1248. It was fascinating to see how the Christian kings engaged Muslim artists — before they were forced to convert or leave by the Catholic monarchs in the 16th century — to create the Mujedar style. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e87a081a.jpeg Guilded ceiling, Hall of Ambassadors https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e77ace3dc.jpeg Rich rooms with ancient urns https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcdd13860.jpeg Tiles Green and red tiles depicting the steps to heaven; delicate, colorful arches and the gilded gold domed ceiling adorning the Hall of the Ambassadors; the reflecting pool and pomegranate trees gracing the Courtyard of the Maidens; the fountains and peacocks dancing in courtyards — all of this and more was just dazzling. The gardens, which could be viewed from a breezeway, were lush and grand as well. The Cathedral and the Giralda One of the largest cathedrals in the world and largest Gothic cathedral, its spires tower over the city and its heft sprawls across a huge square lined with colorful horse carriages, offering rides to tourists Built over a mosque, and over a century, it holds the remains of the city’s founder, Ferdinand lll, and an ornate tomb for Christopher Columbus. Its vastness is intimidating — the 80 chapels, the massive choir, the silver altar, and the Retablo Mayor, the largest altarpiece in the world. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f786d142.jpeg Columbus’ tomb https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e5c5a8c9.jpeg Gold altar https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9eaa4f2f1.jpeg Soaring cathedral The latter glittered in the dark interior — it is estimated the church is adorned with 40,000 kilos of pure gold! We were here for two hours, resting at regular intervals on the pews, joining other tourists fanning themselves. From here the Giralda tower beckoned. Though we were exhausted by the heat, we braved the 35 ramps of the bell tower — wide enough to accommodate horses and pedestrians— and were rewarded with great views of the great bells and the city below. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...472854d42.jpeg The bells https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb9a06592.jpeg City view Elegant lattice stone work and delicate decorations adorning the edifice remind you that the tower was once a minaret. Palace de la Duenas This historic house, built in the 15th century and owned by the House of Alba, was a short walk from our hotel and well worth a visit. Its gardens, the central courtyard, and the building itself is a stunning mix of Gothic, Mudéjar and Renaissance architecture, and a showcase for how the Sevilla nobility lived. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed819ba9a.jpeg The courtyard https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b645ee387.jpeg Bulls and flamenco! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f8392477.jpeg Family chapel The brightly painted rooms were decorated with bull fighting and flamenco memorabilia — the Duchess of Alba was a great supporter of both — and with ornate antique furniture, delicate china and many artifacts. The house is meticulously maintained and you feel the Duchess may walk in at any minute. Plaza de Espana We took a taxi one morning to this magnificent area, built to host the World’s Fair in 1929. At the centre of this lushness is Parque de María Luisa, inspired by Moorish architecture. Tiled fountains and pavilions, ponds and bridges, and blue skies, made this an exuberant place to visit. The Plaza de España, a huge half-circular building on the edge of the park, was designed to showcase Spain's industry and technology. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...183614824.jpeg The plaza https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89ea6a739.jpeg Seville https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4e9609f3.jpeg Flamenco!💃🏻 Alcoves on the outer curving wall depict different Spanish provinces and it was fun to stroll and see which ones we had visited on our many trips to Spain. A flamenco dancer started performing on the steps of the pavilion, adding to the energy. After the museums and the cathedrals, it was wonderful to enjoy a slice of Andalusia under the sun. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75886840c.jpeg Boating! The Nao Victoria We visited this replica of the Nao Victoria, the first ship to successfully circumnavigate the globe. A part of a Spanish fleet of five ships led by Ferdinand Magellan, the original ship sailed from Seville in 1519 with a crew of 42 and was the only one to return to Spain three years later. Walking on the narrow confines of the replica, it was hard to imagine 42 men living here as they suffered hardships such as starvation, scurvy, storms, and hostile indigenous tribes. Magellan was killed in battle in the Philippines in April 1521 and Basque navigator Juan Sebastian de Elcano took command of the ship and brought it home. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6180f1372.jpeg The replica https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc70fd99f.jpeg The quarters below The museum paints a picture of the hard life on board — and lists the amount of alcohol needed to see the men through! Flamenco! Having seen flamenco at a large venue in Madrid, we chose to go to the intimate Casa de Flamenco in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65ff5d400.jpeg An intimate setting The stage set in a converted 15th-century tiled palace, the passionate performers, and the small setting made it a phenomenal experience. The Setas de Seville An ornate and huge mushroom-like waffle, this was initially a controversial attraction in the city, plagued with budget overruns and construction issues. We went because we were right next door, and wanted to see the museum which showcases the ancient walls and Roman artifacts found when digging began for the Setas. The tiny museum was disappointing— the information was all in Spanish and the vIdeo monitors were not working. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af0d37ac3.jpeg The Setas https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b47de2bb.jpeg Seville at the golden hour The Setas is said to be the largest wooden structure in the world, and houses restaurants and shops as well as a circular ramp to the top for breathtaking views of the city, especially at sunset. We went up the ramp at 9.30 p.m, in time to see the golden hour envelope the city. There were plenty of tourists here, and as we came down, a singer with a wonderful voice was singing Phantom of the Opera songs. Darkness fell and the crowd sat on the long steps listening to music under a velvet sky. Seville Churches There seems to be a church on every corner in this deeply Catholic city, and we ducked into many of them. Our guide, Marina, had recommended we not miss the Baroque Salvador Church — same-day admission is included with the Cathedral ticket. Formerly a mosque, it was converted after the Reconquest into a highly decorated church, with a gilded alter and many side chapels. The church sits on a tiny square, and has a very informative museum about Seville history in the basement. I wish we had more time to see it before it closed for the day. Seville restaurants After the meh food in Malaga, Seville was a delight! Bar Eslava: Oh what a wonderful meal this was! We were running late but despite being busy the restaurant called to check when we would arrive and kept our table. We were seated inside and had friendly but not pushy service. ekscrunchy had recommended not just the restaurant but exactly what we should order and we followed her advice! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...465daf4d1.jpeg Yummy artichoke https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca8e5aef6.jpeg The famous biscuit We had the famous Yema Sobre Bizcocho de Boletus, a "biscuit" topped by a souffle of mushrooms and a runny yolk; Costilla de Cerdo con Miel de Romero al Horno, tiny pork ribs glazed with rosemary honey; Loreto cheese, grilled artichoke, pork and beef croquettes, the bequer cigar (minced mushrooms rolled up in a long pastry) and ended with the old cheese ice cream. There were many wines offerings by the glass and a nice selection of beer (my husband was happy). All the food plus 2 glasses of wine and 2 beers was 55 euros. Incredible! Tradevo Centro was another stellar meal. The restaurant was fairly empty when we arrived at 7.30 pm and we were seated at a window. Soon regulars started streaming in. The space is austere, and the menu small but varied. At the start, a platter of raw seafood was brought to our table. You choose what you want. It is then weighed and cooked. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1caa83dd.jpeg Stellar seafood We opted for red shrimp, razor clams, and married them with a fantastic tomato salad, a canaloni stuffed with crab, and a peach tart with ice cream. Wine and beer of course, and then champagne to celebrate my husband’s birthday. We strolled out of there very happy. Cerveseria Giralda: Close to — you guessed it! — the cathedral bell tower and on restaurant row, this space was a hamam in the 12th century, catering to the Moors in the city. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8465c6868.jpeg The hamam insignia https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54089081a.jpeg Former hamam Now a lively eatery, the restaurant still retains much of the brickwork and the hamam’s insignia. We went there for lunch thanks to Marina’s recommendation and were lucky to find a table. The food was fine— a huge shrimp salad and some ham croquettes to share, washed down with sangria, but the real draw was the historic vibe. El Rinconcillo: This restaurant, a few minutes walk from our hotel, was recommended by our concierge. It is a bustling place dating from the 17th century, with elaborate tile work, wooden beams, chandeliers and white table cloths. You can have tapas at the bar tables, but dinner is served upstairs. We walked in without a reservation and had to wait a short while for a table. It seemed to be a perfect gathering spot for families, friends — and tourists. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d51c55c34.jpeg The tiled bar https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b60880e51.jpeg Flan! We had soup — the cold Andalusi Gazpacho each, and I then had the beef entrecôte. My husband had fish and we shared a flan. The wine menu was extensive, the service brisk and the food traditional. Bar Las Golondrinas, Triana: We took a taxi to Triana one late morning to explore Seville’s oldest neighborhood and its ceramic stores. We peeked into the market — it was deserted — and also browsed the ceramic stores. Wandering the streets we stopped to photograph a tile-covered building. A woman on a bicycle hopped off to chat with us. It turned out she is a Chicago native, and had lived quite close to us once, but now lives in Triana. What a lovely travel coincidence! She told us that Montalvan, the building we were admiring, was once a ceramics factory, but is now a boutique hotel. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc18c82c0.jpeg Montalvan https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...174605032.jpeg Delicious scallops and stuffed mushrooms The lady who bought the old factory and refurbished it has owned a bar around the corner for decades. The successful bar helped her pay for the renovation, our new friend told us, and recommended we try it. So off we went to tiny Bar Las Golondrinas, clearly the local haunt. A group of elderly men greeted friends as they walked in, and attempted to make conversation with us in Spanish. The young waitress behind the counter was very welcoming and suggested we order the most popular tapas — the stuffed mushrooms, sautéed scallops in pesto sauce, and tiny pork chops. All were absolutely wonderful, especially the tender scallops. This plus a glass of wine and beer set us back 18 euros. In the U.S. one glass of wine would equal this! And the atmosphere was priceless. La Azotea: We stopped at the location near the cathedral for a rushed lunch between sightseeing commitments. The patio was busy but the restaurant was empty inside. We had bread with tomato and olive oil, shrimp, croquettes and sangria. Good but a tad expensive. Since we were in a rush we ordered dishes that could be brought to the table quickly, so perhaps missed the star offerings of this highly recommended restaurant. Interestingly, we passed by their other location when returning to the hotel after dinner at busy Bar Eslava, and could see through the glass window that it was sadly empty — only one young couple was dining there. La Malvaloca — This well-rated restaurant is right across the Setas de Seville and was hopping at 8 p.m. We snagged an outside table and had a fun time people watching while nibbling on ceviche, fish tacos and flavorful meatballs. It is a casual eatery but convenient if you want a tasty bite before visiting the Setas, with great service to boot. The trip ends! We took an afternoon train from Seville to Madrid for an overnight stay at Only You Atocha before heading to the U.S. the next day. The hotel was great, a four-minute walk from the station, a cheerful front desk, and a sumptuous breakfast the next morning on the rooftop. We took a taxi to the airport the next morning given the early flight. Iberia had wanted us to be there four hours before our flight because second long security lines, but it was totally unnecessary. Lines were very short and moved quickly. The direct flight back was uneventful and I slept most of the way. We came home with thousands of rich memories, fresh insights, and awe at all that our world offers. I feel so grateful for all that we experienced in Spain and can’t wait to go back to explore new corners of this complex country! |
Wonderful trip! Thanks for sharing with us!
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I really enjoyed reading your report, and I love all of your photos! I am so happy that you like Malaga. I think it's an underrated city. Malaga is beautiful and so interesting with so many wonderful sights.. And I love it's location on the Mediterranean. It's always nice to experience some coastal ambiance while traveling.
I love Seville, too! What's not to like! The Royal Alcazar of Seville is one of my favorite all-time sights, right up there with the Alhambra in Granada. And I especially love your photo "Seville in the golden hour". Sounds like you went to many great restaurants. Did you get recommendations from Maribel? We really enjoyed La Azotea; in fact, we ate there twice. I think we ate at the one near the cathedral. |
Lovely report, thank you.
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Thx for the great report and lovely pictures.
As a yearly visitor to Spain I am repeatedly impressed with the country’s complex, rich, diverse culture and history. |
I too enjoyed your report and photos. Danon is right!
Spain is really so diverse and interesting. No wonder he goes back yearly. I never will get tired of it. |
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