Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report A long Paris trip report

Day By Day

October 5-6..Left early for airport as our ride had a school run to make later in the day. No problem though, arrived , got a wheelchair..no waiting in security if you are in a wheelchair, dedicated lane!

Got to departure area and went to café to have lunch. Been offered an upgrade to Economy plus on BA flight. Worth it for the few extra dollars to get a bit more room. Easy flight and landed in London a few minutes early. Got wheelchair at the gate and began the long haul to arrival area. It must be at least a mile! Got into terminal and onto people carrier and then had to wait for the rest of the people being transported. Finally all arrived and we set off to Immigration. Got there and the attendant started to collect passports and landing cards. D and I were the only people to have landing cards! Poor driver had to go to desk and collect 6 cards and have them filled out before we could go thru Immigration! I had had to ask for one from the FA , I guess she assumed everyone onboard was British. Finally made it through and then whisked thru Customs and made it to the Gatwick Express. Train was on platform so no waiting there. Can’t say the same for Victoria though. Took 30 minutes in the taxi queue. Got to Millennium Gloucester 3 HOURS after landing and of course our room was not ready. So sat in lounge waiting. D passed out on the sofa. I went to add some money to our Oyster cards and check out Boots and Waitrose right across the street from hotel. David said he was too tired to eat but I managed a bruschetta with proscuitto and mozzarella and a glass of Pinot grigio at Ask before going back . Still no room when I asked at reception so tried Guest relations. The man saw we were from Orlando and said he had worked here for several year s and got us an immediate room! D hit the bed and I hit the streets until about 4 when I needed a rest before dinner!

Dinner as always on our first night in London was La Famiglia. Lovely to see old friends and have such a warm reception before enjoying wonderful Tuscan food. David as usual started with the marvelous mussels and went onto Liver, I had the pounded lamb chops , spinach and Tuscan potatoes. No Desserts tonight.

Oct 7

Eurostar to Paris..short 2 hour trip from St Pancras. Waited a bit in line at Gare du Nord for a taxi and then onto our apt on Rue St. Antoine, directly across fro St Paul St Louis Cathedral. Could not have been more pleased with the apt. Right outside the door, several bus lines, a few yards from Metro and taxi stand, across from a fromagerie, 2 wine shops, a Paul and a Miss Manon Boulangerie, a Verger with great fruits, especially the melons, I bought one everyday!, supermarket and lots of cafes and bistros..and a Laundromat right next door. The apt does have a washer dryer, but they are more bother than they are worth.

Unpacked with lots of drawer and closet space, then headed out to super market for butter, confiture and coffee. A champagne was on sale so picked up a bottle of that too. The apt was extremely well equipped, even down to an almost full bottle of Single Malt someone had left!!

Walked around the immediate area, St Catherine Square is right around the corner with lots of cafes and restaurants and a lovely green space!

Darcy is coming at 6 for pre dinner drink which we enjoyed on our little courtyard. Served the red wine Vacation In Paris leaves in the apartment as there are no champagne flutes! I’ll have to correct that from Le Vasselerie next door .

Bused to Bistro Paul Bert and had a great dinner. Squid all around as a starter then lamb for Darcy and me and duck with roasted figs fro David. We all chose Paris Brest for dessert. One could have served all 3 of us but we each managed to polish off the serving. It was so good I booked a table for later on in the trip with some other friends who will be joining us..Melj and her husband

The apartment

http://www.vacationinparis.com/apts/sub/201_photos.htm

October 8

Had 10 AM reservation fro Monet exhibit at Grand Palais so started out early on Metro to Champs Elysses-Clemenceau stop. Even with timed entry there is a long line, as they don’t want people standing on the stairs waiting for security. Spent about 2 and a half hours enjoying the paintings. Had a double ticket for the 1500 exhibit but were seriously pooped so skipped it. Had 2 for 1 entry with our Eurostar tickets, booked online. ! Spent a bit of time wandering around the museums area and checking out the setting up of ArtsElysses exhibit which we have tickets to later in the trip/. Then back to our neighborhood and wandered around a bit. Checked out Sq St Catherine and had a glass of wine at one of the cafes

Got back to apt and collapsed! David has terrible jetlag going and mine kicks in about day 3 . Too tired to do much so went across the street to Pizza Momo that Jo recommended. Had a nice antipasto platter of salami and cheese and split a big Marais pizza with a good Valpolicelli . The bed is the only thing in the apt that I really didn’t like. It was very low to the ground and hard to get out of.Might be alright for younger knees but not my 70 plus ones! It was very comfortable otherwise

Tonight was the big GTG at Le Reminet and drinks at Café de Metro beforehand. It was lovely to meet the faces that go with the names! Sat across from Lilia and Tom and next to Mossie so the conversations flowed.. Food as always was good, and the whole evening a great experience. Nice to meet Terrie as I had just introduced her to OPF a few weeks earlier.

October 9

Had planned on the Vendage Montmarte but didn’t feel up to crowds. And we’d seen some banners for a brocante at Faridherbe Chaligny. Bused to the stop and had a coffee in a little café, Café Rey. They had a wonderful painting on the wall that had been done by a customer . It was one of the best we’d see. David was tempted to ask if it were for sale but I talked him out of it.

The brocante went on for many blocks and actually had some pretty good stuff. Saw a bronze we liked but on closer inspection it had been cleaned and refinished, spoiling it’s value. Stopped at a bistro and had salads and baguette with a pichet of house red.

Headed back to apt to meet Darcy for drinks and dinner., stopping by the Metro station to pick up another carnet and charge our Navigo cards for next week. Had a 7:30 reservation at La Guerlade Julia de Paris on them Place des Vosges, which had been recommended by a real foodie friend. Got to the place early as we wanted to window lick the galleries and shops. There seemed to be an awful lot of empty spaces, a sign of the times, I’m afraid. We walked along checking for the address and couldn’t see anything called La Guerlade so asked a waiter. He said we were at the right place but the restaurant had been sold and was now called Carrette. When they answered the phone when I made the reservation they were still saying La Guerlade! Anyway we were all hungry so were seated inside. David and Darcy went for the fish and I had a faux filet with black peppercorn sauce. It was pretty good but we were a bit disappointed not to have tried the original place.

October 10

Sunday so it is always Richard Lenoir market for us. Spent all morning at the market and wandering further along Richard Lenoir Blvd. All I bought was a kilo of fleur de sel for 6 Euro. It's @11.00 an ounce at my local Fresh Market in Florida!Stopped for quiche and salad at La Baroudeur Bistro, very good quiche.
Spent some time wandering around the streets of the Marais and the Fairdherbe neighborhoods.
Then headed over to the 5th as we were meeting Darcy at Chez Fernand. Had to check up on all our old haunts! David and Darcy had kidneys. The cubed them rather than serving them whole as they usually do. I had a very nice braised lamb shank. I know I skipped dessert and can’t remember what D and D had or had not!

October 11

Melj arrives today and we are meeting her and Darcy at Le Cordonnerie but in the mean time we have to search out some rosary beads for a friend. Bus to Sully Morland stop and walked along Rue St Louis en Isle. Made note of restaurant Le Caveau d”Isle and liked the ,the menu so will reserve for later on this week
. Lunch time before we reached ND so stopped at the café at the end of the bridge on Ile de La Cite side. Had lunch there last trip and enjoyed it so gave it another try. Still good.

The line to get into ND stretched all along the side of the church as we decided to give up and go to St Germain. The front of the church was heavily patrolled by machine gun carrying soldiers so I guess the French are taking the terror threats most seriously.

Walked across bridge and caught a bus down Blvd St Germain. No shop at St Germain! Tried St Sulpice, also no shop! Are they ever going to finish the renovations there? I know there is a shop at the chapel of the Miraculous Medal so headed off to the 5th. At this point we’ve been shopping almost all day with no results! But finally Success! And I have the beads. Not much point is trying to do much more than strolling around the neighborhood before heading back to apt to get ready for dinner.

Found our way to Rue St Roch and Mel and Darcy appeared shortly. Warmly greeted by Hugo and were seated in the front so we could watch him cook! Ad was busy with the other customers but we did manage to say hello. Hugo showed us a big beef tenderloin he was roasting so I made up my mind I was having that. And Hurray the cauliflower soup was on the menu. All 3 ladies had the soup , D went with a pate that he said was excellent. I know D had roasted cabillaud and I forget what the other 2 ladies had. I skipped dessert !Said Hello to HUgo for Gitte and we applauded his knife skills!

October 12

Strike Day ! We decided to stay in our ‘hood so headed out to the Carnavalet, taking pictures along the way. We both really enjoy this museum and have visited it several times. After lunch at the Café de Marche we walked along to the Musee de La Chasse and Nature. They have some excellent paintings and the rooms are lovely. Lots of stuffed stuff too! Back to apt for short nap, tired from all the walking. Walked around the corner to Soprano on Place St Catherine for a pasta dinner for David and Calamari for me, followed by tiramisu and D had gelato! He’s been on an ice cream kick and stops in at Le Bouquet St Paul everyday for a Berthillion cone.

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October 13

Saw a de Medici exhibit listed for the Musee Maillol on the front of a bus . Haven’t been there for ages so decided today was the day. The exhibit was wonderful. Unbelievable how intricate the carvings and filigree work . I doubt if anyone today could duplicate it.
Stopped at Le flore for baguettes and wine and since we were so close went on to Invalides. David went to look at some war stuff and I sat in the park talking to one of the old soldiers who live there. After a glass of wine at the café , we headed back to change for dinner. It was still quite warm and we were sweaty by the end of the day. So far the weather has been very warm and our courtyard makes a nice place for an evening glass of vino!

Back to the 6th for dinner at Bistrot de Paris on Rue de Lille. This is one of D;s favorites. I thought our waiter was an American as he spoke English with a Michigan accent! But no, he is French but his parents moved to Detroit when he was 6 months old and he stayed in the USA until he finished at The University of Texas then moved back to France . We lived in Detroit for awhile near to where his parents lived before moving back to France.

BdeP is a pretty old bistro and always pleases. D had the veal liver and the mac and cheese> Don’t laugh , it’s the best mac and cheese you’d ever want to taste. He followed with crème brulee. I went for rack of lamb and roasted potatoes. Followed by a Mille-feuille. What is it with the serving size of potatoes. Every single place we had potatoes they gave each person enough for 4 or 5 people??

October 14

Today we met up with Michael Osman, Darcy and Melj on the steps of Opera Garnier at 9:30 to catch the RER to St Germaine En Laye. David and I had been there before but we still enjoyed revisiting the Royal Museum and the park and Belvedere for the view back to Paris. Unfortunately the day was a bit overcast so the view was a bit obscured. Stopped at a café for lunch before heading out to the Chateau de Monte Christo. Didn’t realize it was so far from the bus stop and all uphill. I made it halfway there then turned around and left the rest of the group to it while we headed back to Paris.

Dinner tonight FINALLY at Josephine Chez Dumonet. I do see what all the fuss was about. The food and service were excellent and NONO is a darling. D again had veal liver, I guess you can figure out his wife does not cook liver! I had an excellent beef bourg. David started with a foie gras terrine and I held off because I wanted dessert. Can’t manage 3 courses anymore. Nice tart tatin with crème fraiche. Grabbed a taxi back to apt as we kept getting on buses that were stopped before the end of the line or our stop for “ perturbations” Never heard that word before and hope never to hear it again!!

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October 15

Spent the whole morning and early afternoon at the Rodin , lunching in the garden café on baguettes and soup. Bused back to the Pont des Arts so we could put our lock of love on the railings to celebrate our 49th anniversary. Saw our first chestnut man so had 2 buy 2 scoops to munch on while waiting for the bus. Stopped to check out the Hotel de Ville courtyard as large tents were set up and we could hear music. It was something to do with Cancer or Aids , I forget which. Wonderful African band and dancers, unfortunately the dam camera ran out in the middle of the video I was trying to shoot.

Back to the Left Bank for dinner at L’bar de huitres. I had a whole sole and D had salmon. I gave him my raw oyster amuse ! Crème brulee again

October 16

Made a stop at Porte de Vanves Didn’t buy a blessed thing! A first for me. Stopped somewhere for a quick lunch but again I forgot to write it down but no big deal as it was just somewhere ordinary.

Saw a big professional brocante listed at Le parc de Prices near St Cloud, so set off early for the journey! Made our way up to the stadium and wondered why there was so little foot traffic. Got there couldn’t find entrance or any signs so asked in a shop that was open. The salesman went and got a custodian who told us the show had been rescheduled! Would have felt foolish but several others showed up and were equally disappointed. When I checked on the computer when we got home the original dates were still listed and nothing about a rescheduling Bah Humbug! Walked around the area a bit as we’d never been there before. It has a lovely suburban feel to it and I wouldn’t mind living there!@
Made our way back and hung out on the Isle for a bit. Thought about going to the D’Orsay but the lines were long, we didn’t have advance tickets so just had a late lunch across from the museum.

Wanted to see our friend Francois so went to the 6th for dinner at St Benoit, fish ,steak with a very good sauce, profiteroles and tiramisu. Francois comes in at 8 so we waited until about 9 and surprised him. Chatted for over an hour before heading home. He is such a darling man. I miss staying at the Danube but for longer visits the apt. makes better sense.

Chatted for over an hour before heading home. . I miss staying at the Danube but for longer visits the apt. makes better sense.

October 17

Had a PM from Christy and we arranged to meet at the Horse butcher at Richard Lenoir market. We each described ourselves and had no problem recognizing each other. She and Her husband are staying nearby and she is cooking. Lucky them they have 3 months in Europe each year! We chatted while she shopped for horse meat and pigeon for dinners and then had coffee before she set off to do her vegetable shopping. Hope they can make it to the next GTG as I really enjoyed talking to her and Paul. Too bad I forgot to take any pictures.

Dinner tonight at Le Caveau d’Isle. The food is excellent and the service very nice. Pleasant smaller place almost across from the church. I saw the owner taking some people downstairs so asked if there was seating there and if it was available for private parties. He took my hand and led me down. At the foot of the stairs is a comfortable bar area with armchairs, to the right a small dining area seating maybe 16 and to the left of the bar a larger area seating 24 or so. He said for large groups the do a 3 course, 3 choice menu with an aperitif and wine included. We should keep it in mind for the next GTG!

I had lamb again. I love French and English lamb. David had sole and then we finished with tiramisu and tarte tatin!

October 18

I’d wanted to go to Le Defense for years but never made it. The St Paul metro across from the apt. goes directly there so finally made it. Too bad I picked a day when they were doing elevator maintenance and you could not go up! Walked around a bit and thru the shops but was really disappointed not to get to the top and see the view back to Paris.

We’ve been here over a week and hadn’t stepped into St Paul so decided today was the day. It really is a wonderful church with many paintings, beautiful chandeliers and carvings. Wee worth a trip. David was craving Italian food so went over to Del Papa in the 6th. I had a veal saltimbocca with veggies and D had kidneys with pasta side. Shared a roasted squid appetizer. I passed on dessert and D had ice cream.

Oct 19

Made our way down to the Louvre. I wanted to check out Pylones in the Carousel, picked up a few little things for the Adorables, then headed over to the Louvre de Antiquares. The things in the shops here are all museum worthy so far out of my price range. But the dealers all like to talk and are pleased to discuss items with you. You can get a lot of free knowledge this way. And there was an exhibit of Palissy pottery which I love so it was double pleasure!

We got stuck with 3 perturbations today and wasted lots of time waiting for buses! Made our way to left bank and had a nice lunch at Le Fregate. Headed back to the Marais as David wanted another look at the painting at Café Rey.

Tonight’s plane is to meet Mel and her husband Gene at Paul Bert. All arrived around the same time and our table was ready. We were all set for another excellent meal but what a letdown. The service was good but the food was mediocre at best. David said his terrine was the worst he’d ever had, the scallops Gene and David had were still attached to the shell and almost impossible to release , worse than that they were practically raw. I forget what I tried to order first but they were already out of it at 7:30 so I settled for a bland steak served with NO sauce. Mel had the duck which was good. The 3 of them ordered the Paris Brest and I had Baba a Rhum. The desserts are good but so huge as to be unappealing. All together a waste of money but the company was great.

October 20

Headed for a new exhibit at Musee de La Vie Romantique, treasures from the Tretyakov Gallery.in Moscow. Wonderful paintings and a great opportunity to see them without going to Russia! Sat in the little courtyard for a bit then decided to take the bus to Trocadero since we hadn’t been near it this time. David decided he wanted to go into the Marine Museum so I pawed thru the gift shop and t5railed along behind him.

My feet were seriously aching so headed back and decided to eat at a little bistro across from the apt where David has been getting his Bertillion fix each day. Good decision, one of the best meals we had this trip. I had an excellent lamb shank and David had Lieu a small saltwater Pollack. He said it was the best fish he’d had so far! The waitress was also very easy on the eyes. Are there any homely girls in Paris? If so we missed them . And the children are all so beautiful!

October 21

Last day before we head off to London for 4 days before starting for home.

Had tickets for the ArtElysses show and noticed a new exhibit was opening at the Petit Palais today. A showy deNittis. I’d never heard of him but I sure will be on the lookout now. The portraits were superb and the location paintings really made you feel like you were there. While we were there also looked in on the photographic exhibit by Reporters sans frontiers. Most from Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan. Some were quite disturbing but I think we must be aware of what is happening there on a daily basis to ordinary people.

The comtemporary art ArtElysses is along the Champs and consists of 2 big long tents. Had free tickets from Joel Garcia. We are not into Contemporary art but what the heck it was free and we did see a few thing we liked. Had a nice talk with a dealer who shows at the Palm Beach show and promised to look him up as we usually go to PB for this art and antique show.

Had planned to go to Le Reminet but I was worn out, my legs and feet killing me and could barely drag myself to the bus., plus I had to pack and tidy up the apt. So cancelled and went back across the street to Le Bouquet Saint Paul. No beautiful waitress tonight for David but a gorgeous young man for me! Only fair!! I had a nice rose rack of lamb and David , pigeon. Both had crème brulee for dessert. The price her is very reasonable .

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Oct 22

Had a 9:15 Eurostar so were out of apt by 7:30, grabbed a cab at taxi stand to Gare du Nord and arrived a bit too soon to check in but at least we were near the front of the line. Had a last breakfast at Paul before boarding the train.