A last minute, whirlwind romp from Amsterdam to Budapest-A gal on the go-the mini sequel
 

Mikes bike tour in Amsterdam -22euro, lagos at the central market in Budapest - 80 Forint, Ex Delta flight attendent neighbor on the 4th floor with first class buddy passes----ABSOFREAKINLUTELY PRICELESS!

Just got back from a gorgeous, beautiful-wish you were here 4 day trip to Amsterdam and Budapest and am completely jet lagged. I'm gathering the notes to post a a jam packed report and this time I even wrote down the restaurant names.

Looking forward to the Budapest bit!

And I'm looking forward to the Amsterdam bit!

Byrd

So here's the background. I usually take one big Europe trip every winter after my season ends when the work load is minimal.This is not one of those times. For the past 2 months have been working about 70-80 hrs a week. The Tuesday evening before Labor Day Monday I went down to the car to get some lumber and in the elevator ran into my neighbor Robin who lives upstairs. I've known her for 4 years and although not good friends we occasionally hang out and chat. She asks what I am doing that weekend for Labor day and I think I could use a night out for a few drinks so I'm like no plans. So she says hey, I've got buddy passes and the flights are wide open interested in going to Amsterdam and Prague for 4 days? What? Did I hear right? I did. I'm like um, let me think about it, come by tomorrow.

Could I really do this? Drop everything and just take off for 4 days to Europe last minute. Am I that spontaneous? But more importantly did I have enough Xanax for the flights? Wednesday evening a knock at my door, it's Robin, well? I say any interest in Budapest instead of Prague? She says yeah, why not and Delta just began direct service from Budappest to Jfk. So I'm like yeah I'm in- let's do it.

We will leave Sunday the 3rd and return Friday the 8th. Saturday, the day before we leave we make the reservations on Delta. She flies for free(just paying the taxes) and I pay a total of 300$RT for Business Class. Yes, 300 dollars-can't pass that up. We also reserve a flight from Amsterdam to Budapest on a low cost carrier. No hotel reservations for Amsterdam but for Budapest she gets a Delta flight crew discount and we book the Kempinski for 80 Euro a night which is crazy cheap.

Sunday we leave for JFK at about 3pm, our flight is at 6:30ish. Technically we are flying standby, but beacause there are so many open seats no problems boarding and being seated. I have never flown Delta, I'm a Continental girl, but I have to say it was lovely.

Biz first on Delta compared to Continental:
-Way more leg room on Delta, but Continental has wider seats
-The food although good on both is definitely better on Continental
- Service - Delta blows Continental away. The flight attendents were awesome and friendly.

We land in Amsterdam at 8:30 am, pretty long line at customs but our bags were first off the plane due to the standby status. We stop for a coffee at one of the airport cafes, then to the ATM, then to the hotel reservation counter. There is a board with phones and different hotels and you press the number of the hotel you want and it connects you.

I saw this hotel listed that I had checked out on the internet so I called them and score availability. The Banks Mansion(details to follow) for 219 Euro a night- we book. Next off to the airport shuttle bus, I think it was about 19 Euro round trip, it drops you off at your hotel and you schedule your return. We were leaving the next evening for Budapest so we were to have 1 1/2 days in Amsterdam. I had been to Amsterdam twice before, Robin's first time so the time there was packed with activities.

more later

Geez laartista, why don't I have a neighbor like that, lol!!! Waiting for more...

What a great start laartista. I love your trip reports and can't wait to see Budapest ( I was there in May, and LOVED it!) Hope the jetlag is treating you OK.

Yay! Can't wait to hear more!
(<i>I want your neighbor)</i>

Yes, great neighbor, and now a friend who was a pleasure to travel with, a similar travel style and alot of fun to be around.

One note-my trip reports tend to be lengthy-I'm a story teller who writes like I speak -so here's my apologies beforehand to those it might annoy.


Monday- Sept 4

O.K. so the Banks Mansion located at Herengracht, www.carlton.nl/banksmansion
is a great hotel with an even better location, super central. 219 Euro a night for a twin might seem steep but that included taxes, breakfast, free mini bar, free internet and an open coffee and alchohol bar all day including free flowing champagne - well worth it. The room was lovely with a great bathroom. By the time we checked in it was around 11:00 and we wanted to do the Mike's bike tour (a tip I picked up from this board so thanks)at 12:30. We were jetlagged, neither one of us slept,so while Robin took a 20 min. catnap I went downstairs to get the bike info.

While waiting a guy walks into the hotel and over to me and is like Hey, how's it going. I just gave him a blank stare. He asked if he could take me and my friend for a beer. Then it dawned on me that it was the older guy from Seattle from our airport shuttle. I think we exchanged the typical tourist pleasantries, where ya from, here for business or vacation, blah, blah, blah. I'm thinking what's he doing here, We just arrived. I said we were going on a bike tour maybe later(I didn't want to be rude).The reception girl asked he was a friend I said no and that if he came by again to tell him we were out. He was kind of creepy-and that's why your mother always told you never to talk to strangers! Speaking of mothers-yes, I did call mine to tell her I arrived.

I mentioned I had been to Amsterdam twice before, what I didn't mention is my foggy recollection. My first trip was in the late 80's November, senior year of college and the only thing I recall from that trip was smearing chocolate spread on salami while watching Hazel reruns on TV. Blame the loss of memory on way too many space cakes and house bong action at the Mellow Yellow lounge.What can I say, I was in college. Second trip in December 2002 was so cold my eyelashes froze, caught bronchitis and was stoned on Dutch cough syrup for 3 days, so again don't remember a whole lot. The good news is that it was like being in a brand new city for the first time and I loved it.

Mikes bike tour is a great way to spend a day and I would recommend it to anyone and everyone. It's 22 Euro and you spend 4-5 hours riding through Amsterdam and into the immediate countryside. Pete was a great guide, very informative about the history and architecture of Amsterdam. Robin and I both competitive rode right behind him in the front of the pack the whole way. I swear we would have whiplash in our necks because ATTENTION LADIES, listen up , the Dutch guys all look like male models. Sigh.

We stopped occasionally so Pete could point out sights. We stopped in front of the Intercontinental because there was a ton of paparazzi outside. Why? Because Madonna was there and had a concert that night. Nope, couldn't get tickets. Then to a windmill, where Pete the guide collects everyones cameras and takes a group picture for each one of us, which I thought was really cool. Then onto a farm where they make cheese and clogs. I was totally out of my element there. They show you a demonstration on how delicious cheese is made. Weird thing was the cheese guy somehow found a way to comment on Bush's foreign policy during the demo. Then the cheese guy makes a clog, then to the gift shop-all very well scripted. There were about 20 people in our group all adults who followed the bike guide like ducklings following a mama duck. In a single file line we rode, pissing off every local we cut off. Over the canal bridges and thru the neighborhoods. I hadn't been on a bicycle in years- but you know what they say &quot;it's like riding a bike&quot; so yeah, it comes back. What you don't recall is how much your ass hurts from being on a bicycle for 5 hours. The last 1/2 hour of the tour they take you to an Irish pub where you park your bike, have a few beers and drunk ride back to the bike shop. All very fun, it's now 5:00 and our day is really just starting.

.

More, more!

laartista -- Great read. I love all the detail, those are always my favorite reports. How fast was the bike ride and did any pre-teens ride it? Some friends of ours are going next summer, kids 11 and 13. They play soccer and are in good shape.

thanks guys
5alive- there weren't any on our ride but I'm sure they can go. Pace was not very fast in the city, a little quicker outside the city, but the guide stops every so often to make sure all catch up, I'm sure they would be fine. I'll find the website and post it.

So, bike tours ended now for some shopping-they say great shoe shopping in Amsterdam. Problem is it's a little after 5, shops close at 6 except for Thursday open til 9 but it' not Thursday it's Monday, so sad. We still manage to hit about 3 stores, afterall we are 2 girls on the search for shoes, boots actually. Found a pair and fell in love but to my despair not in my size. I would pine over these boots for the next 18 hours. Anyhoo, we head back to the digs for some free cocktails and chit chat while drinking in the ever so nice lobby lounge for a few hours. It's about 8 pm still no sleep since Sunday am so we decide we will just rest our feet for 1/2 hour, 3 hours later- I'm saying to Robin it's 11:00 we need to get up and go out. We pull ourselves together really quickly and head out for some dinner.

Now maybe it's just me, but one would think in a town where people are up all night smoking and partying there would be someplace to eat at 11 at night, you would think-seems there really isn't except for fast food and there was no way I was eating at a Burger King in Amsterdam. So after another 1/2 hour searching for food we end up at a fast food middle eastern shwarma house-was pretty good actually, but then I could have just been really hungry, not sure.

When in Rome- I remember or should I say lack of memory of my first trip so I told Robin I would go to a coffee house with her but I didn't want to be smoking all night. I mean I am 40 and I don't have the stamina I once did. Robin is about 10 years younger than me, it's her first time in Amsterdam and she wants to party some, so we compromise. Problem 2, It's Monday , it's super quiet out it's 12:45 and coffee /smoke shops close at 1. We see a place that says Smokey's-self explainatory. Go in over to the grass bar, the veteran that I am I ask the dealer what's the mildest stuff he has-he points to the Orange something was the name so we buy a small bag 15 Euro and a pipe from which to smoke it 8 Euro and are told to go next door to the regular bar to smoke it cause the coffee house side is closing.

We go next door and I'm telling you there were alot of guys dancing together, very closly in fact-I'm thinking could have been a gay guys club- I bar-tended at the Roxy in NYC in the early 90's and the crowd was similar, but whatever, it's Amsterdam and this is a facet of it so might as well hang out. So we smoke, get a beer, listen to the bad american disco music while watching these guys dance to Vogue by Madonna, an hommage-she is in concert that night. And all the while taking pictures of each other like a bunch of geeks. I'll tell you what, it was fun leaving adulthood behind for a few hours and didn't feel the least bit guilty. Nights not over yet.

Robin wants to go see the red light district. It's 2 am and I'm not sure it's safe for two gals to be strolling around there at that hour, but we figure other tourists will probably be going to see it so we go. Yeah, not such a good idea. The red light district although best viewed at night to see the actual red lights I'd suggest more like 9 pm rather than 2 am when the mix of people, all men may I note, are the dregs of society and drunkety drunk British guys out for a bachelor party. But what a sight-pity no photographs allowed. Just the nuttiest thing how these woman stand in the windows half naked-very degrading I think- but hey just my opinion.

We walk the streets quickly because even though we are clothed I'm starting to feel quite exposed. On the walk back to our hotel we pop into a snack shop and buy one of those chocolate covered waffles. Not sure if it was because we were stoned but we were in agreeance ,it was the best thing we ever tasted. Finally back at the hotel it's 3:30ish we are exhausted and finally crash. Tomorrow is a new jam packed day and we want to be rested.

Day two Sept 5

Wake up call at around 8- 2 girls ,1 bathroom, 2 hours to get out of the room-consistant over the next few days.
Breakfast included at the Banks Mansion and what a great spread. All the usual cold cuts, cheeses, cereals etc. but also buffet eggs(my fav) bacon, sausage, made to order omelets, pancakes and french toast-yes, all included AND a terrific bread and pastry selection. Great start to a great day. A short day. Our flight for Budapest leaves at six, we have to be at airport at 4 it's 11 we have about 3 1/2 hours. We prioritize-shoe shopping and Anne Frank house.

We head toward the main shopping street but stop first at the floating flower market on the way. Love it! Gorgeous flowers-wish I didn't have such a black thumb when it comes to plants. I involuntarily plantslaughtered 6 African Violets this past year. But a girl can dream so I just took lots of pix and bought some wooden tulips which I cannot kill. We also bought some magnets and Robin did buy tulip bulbs. We make it over to Kalverstraat, a main pedestrian shopping street to start the boot search. In and out of shoe stores we come to Taft-great store, tons of boots, again none in my size, but Robin bought a gorgeous pair of distressed caramel brown Sedera slouch boots-really fab. Alas, no boots for Laartista, not yet, I was still pining over the pair I saw yesterday and saw none to compare. O.K time is a wasting so we head over to Anne Frank house.

I was at Anne Frank house on my 2002 bronchitis trip, and of all the sights in Amsterdam it seemed the most important so Robin wanted to see it too and I didn't mind going again- it really is wild. The line was fairly long but moved fast and at the end of the tour was a new interactive section that wasn't there last time. We added a leaf to the Anne Frank tree on the computer there, made a video, I'll post the link when I post the trip pix, it was really cool. I strongly suggest a visit to this site-extremely moving and of great historical importance.It's about 2:30 we have an hour before we have to be at the hotel for our shuttle.

We wanted to go to the nine streets area, but kept getting lost. A nice dutch woman tried to give us directions but we were running out of time. By now I am dying of thirst it was pretty warm and humid out so I pop into a store and grab a can of Nestea Iced Tea which is usually refreshing , but when I took a drink-yuck-carbonated-why mess with a classic. Disgusting-note to self-read cans carefully in the future!

On our way back we pass the street where I saw my I'm in love boots. I said to Robin wouldn't it be funny if they got a new shipment in and they had my size. With only 20 minutes to spare we rush over to check, this is serious, I need to know. We find the shop I grab the boot ask the girl frantically and EUREKA!!!!! They got a new shipment that morning with one pair of 36 MY SIZE-HURRAY! I swear sometimes I'm a witch. I hand over the Visa-not a cheap buy but I had to have the distressed dark plum purple, buckled to the knee Sedera engineer boots. Funny what can make a girl happy.

Back at the hotel enough time for Robin to have a glass of Champagne before our ride arrives.

Final thoughts on this Amsterdam leg of the trip. Amsterdam is an awesome city I really loved it. The architecture is beautiful,wonderful sight, great museums even though we didn't get to any, awesome shopping, gorgeous men and lots and lots of bicycles= lots and lots of thin people. I will definitely go back for a longer visit to see the sights I missed, a definite top ten city. Off to Budapest.

Loving this - can't wait to hear about Budapest!

Thanks Meredith

Our shuttle picked us up at 4 for our 6pm flight to Budapest. On the shuttle we met a girl from Budapest who had come to Amsterdam for the sole purpose of the Madonna concert. She had worked in Phoenix as an Au Pair- her name was Laura and she was very helpful.

At the airport the line was ridiculous for checkin at our airlines. There were a few electronic check in kiosks that noone was using. Robin cut around the line to see if we could check in that way. We brought Laura with us to the electronic check in but it referred us to the ticket counter. So back to the new longer line. I felt bad Laura had lost her place in line because of us. The thing is because both her and Robin actually swiped their passports thru the machine they got better boarding numbers than I did. Seems there were no seat assignments- a free for all really based on what number you had. We also met some very nice people from Romania in line, we were inquiring about Draculas castle but it was too far from Budapest with us having such a short time there. I was pleased at how friendly everyone was.

Robin had boarding number 30 I had 104. The thought of sitting in a middle seat or even worse a window seat in the back of the plane was not sitting well with me(no pun intended). Robin assured me she would get us good seats. When one is a nervous flyer there is noone better to fly with than someone who has flown for a living. She was very reassuring and calm.

By the time I got on the plane to my pleasant suprise Robin had secured us the first row bulkhead seats . I sat on the aisle, she in the middle and a young, cute Dutch guy by the window. Two pilots were standiny in front drinking coffee and Robin explained what their stripes meant. The pilot a large bald German man with a warm smile looked at me and asked if I was o.k. I guess I looked really nervous.

I said yes, Robin explained to him I was afraid of flying and he replied don't worry it's my first day, I'll be really careful. So not funny at that moment.

Flight takes off I'm starving, hadn't eaten since breakfast so I purchase a really gross turkey sandwich and a kit kat bar. Xanax kicked in and I was in conversation with Robin and the Dutch guy about 35 min. or so left in the flight when I hear a familiar voice asking if I'm better. It was the pilot. Robin said the look on my face was funny- suprised I said ,quite loudly in fact, what are you doing out here? who's flying the plane? He said the plane is flying the plane. I said shouldn't you be in there instead of out here-go back. He laughed and said o.k. but you are coming with me. I am?

Robin was really psyched, she said can we really come up front and he said sure. I asked is that allowed and he said my plane ,I'm the boss. To tell you the truth ,I sooo did not want to go to the cockpit but Robin said you are going ,get up, let's go. She asked if we could bring our camera and he said sure. Even though I look like a greasy scumbag in these photos from sweating pervusely from nerves I will post them cuz they are really cool.

We enter the cockpit and I sit in the jump seat behind the pilot and strap myself in, Robin sits next to me in a seat in the middle behind the pilots. For 1/2 hour we sit there during landing. Even though I was crazy nervous, it was unbelievable. I had never been in a cockpit before and to see the plane being landed at sunset-indescribable. The pilots just sit there chatting until the last 10 min. or so-automatic pilot really does fly the plane. AS we approach it's getting dark and you see out the front window a huge lit white cross with 2 red lines of lights that flank the runway and the moon is rising off in the distance. The altitude dials computer voice speaks aloud 1000, 900,800,700- I can't believe this-600, 500 400, this is crazy 300, 200 100, 90 and I look over at Robin and she is smiling broadly and saying isn't this awesome. 80, 70, 60,50, 40, 30 ,20, 10 touchdown .I'm like yeah, AWESOME. And it really is. The plane lands and after all the passengers deplane, we were last off with the pilots, they held the shuttle bus for us, we thank the pilot and he says to me, now you won't be afraid to fly. And, I think he was right.

Onto the bus to the terminal, thru customs, to the ATM and airport shuttle bus counter- We are in Budapest and I am psyched!

laartista, you always have lots fun and adventures when you travel. And most of the adventures seem to involve men in authority. You must catch their eye. French cops and now international pilots. I'm sure you much preferred the pilots. Hopefully he cured your FOF. I'm enjoying your report, as usual. Welcome home.

Thanks dcd. You know you have a point there, never thought abpout it that way-and yes pilots are preferrable to police officers. I have to say I did feel alot more comfortable on the flight home from Budapest to New york- so maybe I'm on my way to getting past my phobia.

Tues sept 5 evening

Arrival in Budapest. Before I start the trip report of Budapest a little family history.

My mother is Hungarian born in Budapest in 1941. She and her next eldest sister were hidden children of the war. What few pictures of her I have seen as a young child , she is wearing a coat with a yellow star marking that she is jewish. Hungary was one of the last countries invaded by the Nazis just a year before the war ended. When they came in my mothers eldest sister was taken to Mauthausen concentration camp in upper Austria, her father and brother to labor camps. All 3 survived as did my maternal grandmother. In 1948 my mother, her next eldest sister and parents came to America via Ellis Island. My mothers eldest sister entered the Hungarian army where she met her husband and received training as a doctor. In 1956 during the Hungarian Revolution my aunt, her husband and great aunt and uncle escaped Hungary and came to America. At 80 she and her husband are still practicing physicians in NYC.She has been interviewed for the Steven Speilberg film that shows at the Holocust Museum in Washington DC. My mothers brother lived in Budapest until he died in 1996. In his prime he was a very important physician to Hungarian heads of state but when his son also a doctor came to the US for a visit in the late 70's and defected from communist Hungary , my uncle was stripped of his status and unable to leave Hungary for years to follow. My mother has been back about a half dozen times first time in 1985. Both her sisters travel back every year, and my cousin now owns my uncles apartment that he visits frequently.

My trip to Budapest was very moving for me, I saw my relatives in the faces of the people there and heard my mother and aunts in their voices. Budapests history is my ancestors history, I felt an immediate connection to the city and hopefully will travel back often.

That said next installment Budapest trip report.

I'm finding your trip report interesting. Especially liked your recent post about your family Hungarian heritage.

Thanks noe. The airport shuttle to our hotel took about 30 min. Robin dozed off on the ride but I woke her when I saw the view of the river Danube seperating Buda and Pest. It was around 9pm and the buildings along the river were lit with soft yellow lighting casting a sepia tone down the river. It was really beautiful.

We arrive at the Kempinski located just in front of Vaci Utca on the Pest side. Man o man this is one gorgeous hotel and for 80 Euro a night thanks to Robins Delta crew discount we were psyched! At check in we were secured only the first two of our three nights but they put us on the waiting list and the next day room opened up so we were all set.

Our room was great, I love a hotel with turn down service where they leave a fancy boxed chocolate on your pillow. Bathroom was huge, shower was awesome, beds were unbelievably comfy. Robes and slippers, what more could we ask for. Food that's what, it was 10:30 and we was starvin!

We went downstairs and checked out they menus for the hotels 3 restaurants. The prices were crazy expensive so we ventured outside. To the left we walked to the end of the block. There was a concrete barracade because the British embassy is right there. There were 2 policemen we asked where we could eat and they pointed to the left where we saw 2 restaurants. One authentic Hungarian cuisine, 1 sushi house. We opt for the local fare.

Inside it was packed, mostly with Brits, guessing from the embassy. We were really confused with what to order. Growing up my mom made some americanized hungarian dishes but I couldn't recall the names.

Ok, just my opinion (and Robins), I've been to alot of places, but hands down, no bar best food I've EVER eaten-HUNGARIAN!

We ordered 3 dishes and shared them, we laughed because we kept moaning about how good the food was must have looked like when harry met sally. We ordered stuffed peppers in a paprika sauce-AMAZING, meat filled crepes in a paprikash sauce with I think sour creme on top-AMAZING and chicken breast in an apricat sauce with apricot slices and candied walnuts-REALLY AMAZING. Would have had dessert but they were all out of chocolate crepes which is what I wanted. Dinner for 2 with drinks about 45$. It's around midnight and we had been on the go for 2 days with little sleep and were exhausted so we turned in early Tues night, I slept for 9 hours straight-I never do that.

Next up a full day in Buda.

This is an amazing report. Thanks for sharing your family history - really fascinating and makes the report even more interesting.

Amazing invitation, amazing trip report, amazing pilot and amazing family history laartista!! Thank you so much for sharing. Now I understand why you are a &quot;get and go&quot; gal..it is in your strong and adventerous genes!

Wed. Sep 6 a day in Buda
*** WARNING*** long day ahead

We slept in til 9am, we were so tired but it was beautiful out about 75 and sunny so again 2 girls, 1 bathroom, 2 hours later out the door. No breakfast at the Kempinski at 30 Euro a head which wasn't included. We did however order up a pot of coffee, I just can't function without it. It's a long day ahead we don't return to the hotel until 11:30 that night.

Armed with map and guide book we head out to the Chain Bridge built so the guy in charge at the time could go to his brothers funeral. Bridge was about a 10 min. walk from the hotel. It is a beautiful bridge with large lions guarding either end. Once across the bridge we get tickets for the funicular to take us up to the Royal Palce.

The views from the top are awesome. Most of the tourist sights are on the Buda side. My aunt had advised me to do any shopping on the pest side for that reason. We were a little overwhelmed not exactly sure what to see first. We decided to head toward the palace grounds. There were all these little wood huts that you would find at a X-mas market in Germany and soon realized that they were setting up for something - it was the Borfesztival, a yearly wine festival with wine vendors from all over the world. More on this later.

First stop was at Matyas fountain on the castle grounds and then to the Budapest History Museum. Before entering the museum we headed out to a deck on the backside of the building. Had a chat with a nice Hungarian guy who told us about something we should see the next day.

The Budapest History Museum was very interesting. Also, in addition to your ticket you have to buy a photo pass to take pictures- so we did. At one point a museum guard started yelling at me in German. I kept saying, &quot;Ich sprechen Kine Deutch&quot; English. He just kept saying mocking me English, Deutch- it was all very weird. I got the impression while I was there that the Hungarians aren't that keen on the Germans and Austrians. We headed out to the courtyard and up to the viewing tower. The scenery was breathtaking.

On our way out of the palace grounds we stopped to get a ticket for the wine festival for later. For about 10 bucks they give you a pouch to hang around your neck with a wine glass and tickets for 2 free tastings. We head toward old town passing the Hungarian National Theatre which seems to be dedicated to Beethoven.

Old town is really cute dotted with little yellow buildings. We stop in the pharmacy beacause after wearing my chucks for 2 days straight without socks I had blisters on my blisters. Bought a big box of blister bandages, took a seat right there in the drugstore and bandaged every toe on my right foot-got some pix of that too. We also bought some bottled water there.

Here's the thing about the bottled water in Hungry. There are 2 kinds both offering with gas and without. There is the Hungarian kind called thermal or something like that- stay away from this stuff unless you like drinking a tin can. Honestly it has such a strong metal taste- it says mineral water but no- not good. You have to get either dannon or nestle for no aftertaste. The other stuff is probably better for you with all it's minerals but when your thirsty it just doesn't do the trick. This water issue would plague us all day until we figured it out. Must have spent about 25 bucks on water. Enough said. Next stop Matyas Church.

Quick history the church built between 13 and 15 centuries, Turks convert it to a Mosque mid 1500's. Liberation of Buda pretty much destroys the place and was then rebuilt by Franciscan Friars, damaged again 1700's restored in Neo gothic style and they did a damn good job because IT IS BEAUTIFUL. The windows reminded me of St. Chapelle in Paris.

Directly behind the Matyas church is Fishermans Bastion a monument to the Guild of Fisherman built on the site of the cities old defensive walls. There is a lovely restaurant overlooking the river and Pest on the underside. Tickets are like a dollar. The views from there are great and it is a super interesting piece of architecture I think. Also right in front is a famous statue of the king who first brought christianity to Hungry. I forget his name.

From Fishermans Bastion we walk a few blocks in old town to Uri Utca. On the corner of that street is a great gallery where I buy a beautiful ceramic wall hanging while Robin uses the restroom. Down Uri Utca at #9 is the Labyrinth of Buda Castle. Hold onto your hats extreme creepiness ahead.

So this labyrinth otherwise known as super creepy wet dark caves and walkways were originally formed by hot springs,, became refuge for prehistoric people and eventually were used for various things, wine cellars, torture chambers, treasuries etc. Can I say creepy one more time. Hardly anyone down there, so dark I had to literally light a match to see where we were walking at times and all the while scary movie music is playing along with an unsettling droning drum beat. I felt like I was 9 years old in a haunted house. I kept telling Robin to go first- and she's like no, you go first LOL, it was a riot. At one point a German guy jumped out from behind a statue to scare us while his girlfriend laughed on the sidelines. Honestly we couldn't wait to get out of there. I shudder. By the time we emerged from the the dark, wet, caves of Buda we were ready for some wine tasting.

It was 5 we had asked the concierge to reserve us tickets for the Hungarian Folk Dance show at 8 but when we got to the wine festival not only did they have wine and food but also folk dancers. We head over to a hut, get a tasting and ask the guy to borrow his cell phone to call the hotel to cancel our tickets. We want to stay at the party and we did until 11pm.

This was an awesome time, tons of wine, I bought 5 bottles, Robin bought 6 all Hungarian except for my bottle of Bottega White Chocolate Grappa, love the stuff. Great food, all hungarian specialties. We bought a bunch of different food and ate at the long wooden tables amongst our new Hungarian friends. Watched some folk dancing, took pictures, saw the mayor of Budapest and best of all the singing, travelling wine waiters. Oh, I have got to tell you about these guys, they were hysterical.

Seems there is a group of about 30 or so men all wearing long blue aprons accompanied by an accordian player. All night long they travel the fair and park themselves next to different huts, different wine vendors. Then they sing lively happy Hungarian songs, and after EVERY SINGLE SONG, they drink, they drink their whole glass and the vendors hut where they are standing then comes and refills EVERY GUYS GLASS. This craziness goes on all night long-it was hysterical.

Even funnier are the people who are so drunk they are walking as if they just got off the spinning teacups at Disney after a 3 daylong ride. But the craziest thing we saw was the hit and run vomiter- that's right you read correct. This guy walked and vomited down the entire walkway where we were sitting never missing a step as he barfed, count them 4 times in a row. It was unbelievable. Even more unbelievable was noone looked, noone went eeeewww, noone flinched, noone but me and Robin. And for the next hour while we were talking I'd occasionally see Robins eyes wander to the walkway and finally I said are you counting how nmany people are stepping in that stuff and she just started laughing. She was.

Oh, it was a long, long day (which is why noones reading this) and we had another tomorrow, so we catch a cab. FYI, only take cabs that have actual company names like taxi2000. Back at the Kempinski we have a late night coffee, chat for a while and we are out.

Next up Pest.

Thurs. Sept. 7- last day in Budapest

One more comment about the wine festival. Not sure if it is held same weekend every year but if you ever are in Budapest 2nd weekend in Sep. GO GO GO. It felt surreal to be there at the Buda castle at night all a glow with the views of the city behind and the music- again just awesome!

Early wake up thurs. out of the room by 10 am and then spent the next hour trying to get spa treatments for early evening. Budapest is afterall a city of spas, but to our diappointment none to be had. I really wanted a facial, massage and mineral mud wrap-oh well. We thought maybe we could just use all that icky mineral water that we had amassed the day before and just throw it on our faces.


We started our day with a short walk to Parliment. This is a massive building on the Pest side of the river front. It is undergoing a bath at the moment so half of it is scaffolded. You need to join a tour to go inside, but they are at set times. When we got there, there was a huge line and like an hour to wait. We wanted to see as much of Pest as we could that day so we opted to just take pix of the exterior, take a spin around the outside of the building and head off to the next place.

We walked from Parliment to Roosevelt Square and popped into the Gresham Palace (which is now a Four Seasons Hotel) for a peek. Wowsa, great art deco tiling and furnishings. The restrooms had square toilet seats. All vey posh. From there we head to St. Stephens Basillica.

St. Stephens was a really beautiful church. You can take an elevator to a first deck with some exhibits and then either stair it or elevator it to atop the dome. We walked up- I would take the elevator next time. It was really cool because before you walked out onto the viewing area you were inside the false ceiling of the dome. Once again the views were fantastic.

From St. Stephans we start our walk toward Andrassey Street. We passed a really old building that still showed it's scars from the war. It was interesting to see. We stopped into a small ma and pa grocery. I love to go to these type places when I'm travelling. See what the locals are buying. We bought some Unicum ( a supposed medicinal liquor that they used to treat the kings ailments with.) Hey, if it's good enough for the king....

We walked along Andrassey admiring the street. It reminded me of one of the broad boulavards in Barcelona, lots of trees, very pretty. Our first stop was a pharmacy. Bit of info for the ladies here. My family always brings me this Hungarian face cream that they always use. It's cheap like 8-10 bucks, but they swear by it and you know what- they all have great skin. It's called Helia, they also make an eye cream. It comes in a black box and can be found at the local pharmacies. I told Robin about it and so we went to get her some.

I was cursing my mother in that pharmacy that she never taught me Hungarian, I know like 8 words 4 of which are not very nice #$%*.Thankfully there was a lovely old woman-grandma type, who didn't speak English but seemed to understand English. The sales girl was getting frustrated with us and who could blame her. Funny thing, I kept thinking about my grandma who passed because this woman smelled like Jean'a te( spelling?). It's what my grandma always wore. We each bought a jar and and eye cream and were off next to the Opera House.

We stopped at the Opera house, but it was not open at that time for a tour so we continued on to The House of Terror Museum housed in the old Secret Police Headquarters. I have read in other reports here that people found the museum not organized well as far as explanations of what they were looking at. Robin felt that way, I did not. I talked her thru it. I actually felt it was a very powerful museum especially when you first walk in and see the 3 story high wall with black and white faces of those who suffered at the hands of the Hungarian Nazis and then the Secret Police. Like I said before it is also my families history so I'm familiar with the stories. It's definitely a heavy museum, a downer, but it makes you appreciate our freedoms that much more. In the museum from the second floor to the basement is an elevator ride that is so slow you feel as if your standing still which I think is the point. A movie plays with a man talking about a horrible execution he witnesssed while this imposing drumbeat rings in the elevator. It was kind of wild. Also in the basement where the torture chambers used to be the have a long hallway with pictures of the Hungarian Nazis, alot of them still alive-almost outing them-KARMA.

It was 2:00, no food yet so we stop for lunch at a place called Wallstreet (go figure) on Andrassey. We ordered chicken parikash with spatzel like dumplings mixed with cheese and sour cream. All very healthy, good for your cholesteral. I swear I felt like a paprikash crackhead- I NEED MY PAPRIKASH! It was AMAZING. And filling. I think that's why these Eastern Europeans drink so much. They have to. Their food is so heavy they have to do 15 shots of Jagermeister just to catch a buzz. The first night when we checked in and asked the front desk for a place to get something light to eat they suggested a Bavarian Restaurant. A Bavarian Restaurant, I guess German food is considered light fare compared to Hungarian food. Well we waddled back to the hotel and just dropped our bags with the concierge before heading to Vaci Utca.

Vaci utca is supposed to be the main shopping street and like others who have posted I think Images said it I too was not impressed. But the atmosphere was fun and our goal was to get to Central Market.

I'm gonna finish this up in the next installment and then post some pix.

laartista, I really enjoyed reading your report. You sound like a lot of fun to travel with!

Really enjoying your report laartista. Looking forward to more.

Thanks you guys.

Heres a link to pictures, I'll add Robin's when she dowloads the, she has mor of Amsterdam.

I think remebering how to use a camera is not like riding a bike- because my pictures came out not great. Anyhoo, a few tacked on the end of the biggest housecat in the world weghing in at 23 lbs. No joke. It's Bear the cat.

horrible typos in that last post-sorry

OMG, I'm an idiot here's the link

www.bearcat.shutterfly.com

I must need more coffee

The photos are great. Budapest looks fantastic, Robin's new hat is a real keeper, and Bear is well, large. It really looks like a fun trip.

Laartista, this is the first posting of yours that I am reading, but I wish I could read more. Kudos to you on your interesting and detailed trip report; I very much appreciate your casual, fun style of writing and living, and above all your positive attitude. Its no wonder others enjoy being around you !

I happened onto Budapest for 2 short days at the end of my Croatian adventure in September 2004 and it immediately became one of my favourite cities in Europe. I went back last year for 5 days in May and loved it. This year, I'll be back for another week at the end of October after trekking around Turkey for 2 weeks.

In Budapest, did you pass any of the &quot;Szendvich' shops ? Large glass windows with an eye-popping and mouth-watering array of delicious open-faced sandwiches ? I couldn't pass by without popping in, only to exit with a sampling of boxed goodies. And I had to chuckle about the water story ! Been there. Yep, every adventurous tourist who pops into local grocery stores for water must have the same story as us, finding a bottle to our taste.

By the way,- and I may have missed this - but what are Iagos at the Central market ?

Unfortunately, I cannot get your photos to go beyond the first 12, and even then, can't get any of the thumbnails to open up. Any idea what I'm doing wrong ? Do I have to sign up ?

Thanks for a great read.

Thanks for the compliment math- did i write about the lagos yet. i'll fill you in on them in my central market report. Try hitting view as slideshow, shutterfly gets wanky sometimes. I did pass those shops, my mom makes those finger sandwiches and they are yummy. I'm gonna try to tack on a few days back there on my January trip and have my mom meet me as a translator.

On to the Central Market, to Hungarians known as the Csarnok. This buliding is massive and at the end of Vaci Utca. The first floor is all market food stalls-anything you can think of. On the second floor is crafts, mostly embroideries. The Hungarians will embroider flowers on anything and everything and if they can't embroider it then they paint the flowers on. Also upstairs are stalls to buy ready made food and you can sit at the long high tables and eat. I didn't buy any embroidery because I have one from every year since I was 5 ,shirts, tableclothes, napkins etc....gifts from family members. Robin got a cool hat, bargained the guy down, I'm not good at that but my aunt says they expect it. It was 5:15 and the market closes at 6 but really the vendors start breaking down at 5:30. Then I remembered what Aunt Susan said, make sure you have the Langos at the Csarnok. Pronounced Langosh, flat fried dough with garlic ,TO DIE FOR. You can get it with meat toppings but we had a plain one.On the second floor, side closest to the river ,last food stand before the crafters, very small sign says Langos. If in Budapest do not miss this treat. We split one.

Markets closed, no spa treatments, we'll take a river cruise. We walked along the Danube stopping at every boat. We weren't sure where to go. First boat a private yacht-no river cruise there. Second boat-going to Bratislava-not us. Finally, not our boat but a place to purchase tickets for our boat- will leave at 7 from dock 6. Another 15 minute walk down the river and boats not there yet but on I think dock 4 is The Columbus Pub. A neat riverboat restaurant and bar where they also have live jazz. We stop in for a coffee. Oh, I see the boat, we run to the gang plank, we want to get a seat upstairs where it is uncovered. Waiting on line I said to Robin WOW for 12 bucks that's a nice ride. Tables, a band playing, a bar-this is going to be awesome. Well it would have been if it were OUR boat, but it wasn't. Robin's like hey, this is dock 5 not 6 and points that's OUR boat. And there it was, like a dingy-bummer. But we run over anyway, Hey, they gave us a free beer. It was a fine cruise an hour total, down to Margeret Island turns around to the Gellert and then back to the dock.

Next up final night and final thoughts.

Laartista, I love your style of writing..you take us right along with you as you enjoy your trips. I wish I had that talent. And the Langos, OMG, they sound so good, I love pastry and I love garlic. What a great combination!!

Laartista, thanks for your report. It was wonderful to see what a fabulous time you had with basically no planning at all. I really enjoyed the Budapest part in particular as I picked up a number of tips for our forthcoming trip there.

Thanks, Laartista; I am familiar with the Central market, as it is directly across the bridge from the Gellert Hotel where I usually stay, as I will be again in October, and I always walk into the market to see whats going on. The colourful displays of fruit, veg and paprika make for some great photos.

I'll be sure to head upstairs and look out for the langos stall, and eat one in your honour (!) They also serve great tasting goulash with egg noodles at those stalls upstairs. The real thing.

Among the bar/restaurants boats you visited is a tethered one called 'Spoon'. Good for a drink.
That entire walk (or jog, rollerblade, etc.) from the market to Margaret island along the banks of the Danube (but on the Buda side) is quite enjoyable.

Thanks LoveItaly, Shandy and Math have a great time in October.

Our last night in Budapest we ate at a restaurant on the river over by the Intercontinental. There is kind of a restaurant row over there. Once again the food was amazing. After dinner we popped into the hotel bar for a drink and to listen to a 3 piece band play.

The flight home was uneventful, which is good. Just one snag at the airport. After we went thru security we stopped at duty dree and each picked up 2 boxes of chocolate covered liquor filled cherries. At the gate all bags were searched again and Yep, they took the cherries. Confiscated because they had liquid in them. I was NOOOOOO, not the cherries- It was like that episode from I Love Lucy when she's working at the chocolate factory with Ethel. I was shoving those cherries in my mouth, I could only fit 3 they were really big. I was so bummed.

It seemed like a dream, such a last minute, unplanned adventure. Just dropped everything and went. Never even checked my messages at the studio. It was AWESOME and I'd do it again in a second.

Budapest is a great city, more than I expected, only sorry I waited so long to go, I will definitly return and soon. It is steeped in history, a sad one and although the people are friendly they are a little reserved as is my mothers family. The architecture is beautiful, the food out of sight and tons to see and do. Two days was not enough. Oh, and now I know why everything my mom cooks is rust colored. It's all that Paprika.

thanks for reading