8 Weeks in Paris -Trip Report 2005
 

As a novice European traveler the boards have been invaluable for information, advice and ideas. This fall I’ve been fortunate enough to arrange an 8 week stay in Paris and would like to share my experience with future visitors.

I’ve been to Paris twice, a day trip from Germany and a 5 day stay during the month of January a few years ago. This trip I have no plans other to walk, walk and walk some more.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your insights, it’s made planning less overwhelming and more enjoyable!
Alicia

The apartment rental
I used several rental agency sites, VRBO, various Paris rental agencies, and Craig’s List and contacted approx 40 rentals for price and availability. At first I thought I would like to be in Montmarte but I had only spent an evening in the area on a previous trip. But in the end the central location of the Latin Quarter was appealing as well as the apt amenities and the price.

Through VRBO I selected apt #20017, (http://www.vrbo.com/20017) includes W&D, high speed internet, VCR, DVD & TV with English movie channels, BBC and CNN. It’s a one bedroom loft with queen size bed (loft is 5 feet high), living room / dining room with a futon, table and chairs.

The kitchen is nice, 2 people can easy work in the kitchen together, includes cook top, microwave, convention oven, toaster, under the counter size refrigerator, small freezer but enough to make ice cubs for cocktails, a coffee pot and all utensils, dishes, glasses and pots.

The bathroom is a good size, big tub (long), lots of towels (big), hair dryer, iron and ironing board included.

From the pictures it’s a bit deceiving and ended up being bigger than I thought. The loft is more comfortable than I expected even with the low ceilings. The ceiling in the living room is quite high, two big windows that face an interior alley. The plus side it’s very quiet at night since the windows do not face the street, but no view, which is ok since I’m not in during the day.

Controlled entry, very safe area and well lighted inside and out. The apt was spotless, linens and bedding in great condition, big towels, plenty of pillows and blankets. Weekly cleaning service included. Two door keys available so guests and I could come and go separately and all utilities included.

The apt is on a side street between Blvd St Germain & Blvd St Michel, a ton of inexpensive restaurants outside the door. Close to the Cluny and St Michel Metro stops and 2 mins to Notre Dame. Lots of shopping in any direction, and quite a few movie theatres in the area. An internet café a few doors down which is open 24x7, 3E per hour for internet use.

I would highly recommend the apt, has everything you need in a central location, quiet and clean and well priced. Christian and Marie Guerin are the owners of #20017, they were very prompt in responding to my first inquiry and patient in answering all my questions. The contract was very straight forward and wire transfer process was quite easy.

The Guerin’s also own 2 more apts, one smaller and one larger. This week I took at look at the larger apt (http://www.vrbo.com/17513); for future reference. The larger apt has an actual bedroom instead of a loft. #17513 is Very nice, good size and very close to Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, looks like it does in the pictures, nice high ceilings.

Week 1: October 9, 2005

The weather has been fantastic all week, blue skies and warm temps.

Always a popular question…What is everyone wearing?
Very casual, jeans, lots Puma and Puma style sneakers or black shoes/boots, trail shoes, lots of scarves, casual jackets or sweaters. I have yet to see anyone wearing a baseball hat. And I’ve been watching since baseball hats are always a discussion with my hat loving husband when we travel.

Messenger bags are very popular, lots of backpacks, very few fanny packs. This week only the Rodin Museum (house) required checking the backpack, everywhere else it’s been an “open the bag check” and in you go.

Sunday
Arrived via train from Mannheim Germany at the Paris Est train station, 10E cab ride to the Latin Quarter.

Monday
Walked to the grocery store around 8:00, wasn’t open yet, got a cup of coffee and headed to Notre Dame. I love the early morning, so quiet. The grocery store wasn’t as intimidating as I expected, it was fairly easy to figure out the lunch meat and cheese. There are several small grocery stores less than 5 minutes away from the apt. In the late morning I walked along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower, around the tower and headed over to Rue Cler. From the apt the Eiffel Tower is about a 45-60 min walk.

Tuesday
I headed to the Blvd Raspail Street Market. I love Barefoot Contessa cookbook’s by Ina Gartner. In her Barefoot in Paris cookbook she lists the Raspail Market as the one that made her want to live in Paris. It was very nice, a lot of produce, amazing seafood and a cheese stand or 2. I walked over to the La Grande Epicerie de Paris (Bon Marche food market) next to the main dept store and did some gift shopping.

I walked Blvds St Michel and St Germain, and found the Diptyque store (34 Blvd St Germain). New candle and perfume scents were released a few weeks ago, well worth stopping by and sniffing. The staff was very friendly.

Wednesday
Husband and sister in law arrived, this is her first visit to Paris, with nice weather but still tired from the flight, we rode all 4 routes of the L’Open hop on-hop off bus, which provided a nice over view of the major sites. The L’Open has a few more stops and covers a larger area than the other bus company. 28E per person for a 2 day pass, consecutive days, accepts major credits, pay on the bus.

Thursday
Buying Museum Passes: Several of the area Metro stations were out of the 3 and 5 day Museum Passes, we purchased 5 day passes at Notre Dame (credit cards accepted) but the very top of the bell tower was closed, the other exterior top walk was open but we wanted to go to the Bell Tower that we missed on the last trip. Rumor has it was a staffing issue(?). Opted out of Notre Dame until the bell tower would be open and headed to Invalides instead.

Invalides – Napoleon’s Tomb (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.invalides.org/
This huge domed structure was constructed in the late 17th century under the direction of Louis XIV to shelter old and wounded soldiers and includes the more recent addition of Napoleon's tomb.

Sainte Chapelle (covered by Museum Pass)
Church dates back to the 13th century, amazing stained glass windows.
A must see, but no Museum Pass bypass line, must wait with everyone else.

Eiffel Tower (10,50E per person, credit cards accepted)
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/
Wait in line together when buying tickets; I was going to have my husband buy tickets while we wandered to take pictures until I realized that after buying the tickets at the counter you go through security and into the waiting room for the elevator. Fortunately the lines were not long and we were able to catch up with him quickly at the ticket counter. We went at dusk, the top level was jammed with people and not enjoyable, we dropped down a level for more room to roam and the views were spectacular.

Friday
Pantheon (covered by Museum Pass)
I like the Rick Steves’ guide books and he lists the Pantheon as a Paris disappointment but I enjoyed the museum. We were just in time for the 2:30P walk up to the Dome. The tour to the dome is lead but no commentary, but questions are allowed. We walked to three different levels, the first level within the building over looking the pendulum, the second two outside. The third level at the top of the dome offered amazing views. Great views of Notre Dame and Sacre Coure, a bit hazy but the view of the Eiffel Tower was decent and with a bit of effort you can find the very top of the Arc de Triomphe.

D’Orsay (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-orsay.fr
With the Museum Pass enter around the corner in entrance C/D.

Lourve (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.louvre.fr
Open late until 945P, two entry lines, for people with bags to be scanned and the other for people not carrying bags, moves quickly.

Saturday
Catacombs (5E per person, not covered by Museum Pass, 15E minimum for credit card payments)
Underground stone quarries that hold the 200-year-old skeletons of several million people.
Interesting and worth the visit if you have time but be prepared, no toilets at the ticket office and it’s a long walk to the other end. The tour ends on Rue Remy Dumoncel between the Alesia and Mouton Duvernet Metro stops.

Rodin Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-rodin.fr/
Beautiful gardens, great place to picnic, the public parks were jammed all week, this would be a great place to hang out for a while. Plenty of places to sit outside and toilets easily accessible.

Picasso Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-picasso.fr/
The museum is larger than I expected, very enjoyable. On display were several of his sketch books and on the computers you could flip through the sketch books to see the other pages, very well done. Close to the Victor Hugo mansion, great neighborhood to wander around.

Promenade Plantee Park (free)
We had seen the park in the movie Before Sunset with Ethan Hawke. The Promenade is a two mile walk on a former elevated train track, its narrow but the plantings and elevated views were great. To get there we walked from the Picasso Museum towards the Bastille Opera House. The entrance is one block past the Opera, walk with the Opera on your left, down rue de Lyon. Look for the brick wall with the stair case leading up. Lots of places to sit and relax, one public toilet but not in useable condition.

Hi Alicia. My, you really did do a lot of walking. You accomplished so much in a short time!!

I have been to Paris many times and still havent seen some of the sites you have!! Somehow I become 'waylaid' by all those amazing cafes!

I look forward to hearing more! How I would love to have 8 weeks in Paris.

Alicia,

Checking in early for the long haul. I really liked the Week One trip report. What a busy week! I get the feeling that by Week Eight (when the sightseeing is long over), this may start to read more like a diary...

Alicia,
Great report!!
Thanks for the mentioned re:Picasso notebooks on computer. May be worth another visit!!
8 weeks...I bet they flew?
((*))

Time does fly when you are having this wonderful time. Happy I stopped by to enjoy this.

Eight weeks in Paris - how absolutely delightful!!

Looking forward to the rest of your report and am so jealous of your time there! Someday.....

Yes, really looking forward to another installment! I too am looking forward to a day by day report once you run out of tourist attractions.

I would KILL for eight weeks in Paris..oh you lucky girl. If you talk about food, if you ordered kidneys, PLEASE keep it to yourself!!! LOL Looking forward to the rest.

Alicia, TTT - We're waiting for the next 7 weeks of your trip :)

Quelle Chance vous avez! I would love to take 8 weeks and go to Paris with my 4 1/2 year old. I'm dreaming of that in the early summer months so that he can go to French summer school while I explore the city!

We'll be there Dec 12-20 and dec 27-29 - in the Luxembourg area (closer to Montparnasse) -- can't wait!!!

Looking forward to a continued vicarious experience!

Week 2
Week of October 16, 2005

Sunday
Went back to Notre Dame in the morning, top of the Bell Tower still closed, but we toured the rest. Even with the Museum Pass you still have to wait in line as they only allow so many people to go up at a time.

Musee des Egouts de Paris - Sewer Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
Yes it does smell, but we wanted to make the most of the Museum Pass. The museum was interesting and the commentary in French and English was excellent. Provides an overview of how the city evolved and grew. At the end there a few TVs with video files that show what happens when Seine overflows from heavy rain, videos are short but well done.

Opera Garnier (7E per person, not covered by Museum Pass, cash only)
http://www.opera-de-paris.fr/
Breathtaking interiors, not to be missed.

Monday
Musee National d'Art-Moderne Centre Georges Pompidou (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.cnac-gp.fr/Pompidou/Accue...unnel?OpenForm
Wasn’t a big hit with my husband.

Musee du Moyen Age, Thermes de Cluny (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/
15th century mansion, Medieval and gothic, site of Gallo-Roman baths, heads of Notre Dame. The Cluny was a big hit and if time allows worth a visit, close to Notre Dame & the Latin Quarter.

Tuesday
Sacre Coeur (Church free, 5E to walk up to the dome)

Place de Tertre - Montmarte
It was difficult to walk around without being approached by portrait artists, but enjoyable.

Canal St Martin - Boat Cruise
www.canauxrama.com
14E per person, credit cards and cash accepted
2 ½ hour boat ride through 8 double locks, starts at Parc de la Villette and ends at Bastille.
Ameile is one of my favorite movies and I couldn’t wait to get up to the Canal St Martin area. We decided to try the canal boat cruise to give the feet a rest. The cruise was nice but most of the time is spent getting in and out of the double locks, save the cruise for when you’re tired but you want to be out sightseeing. I’ll head back up on foot and to some exploring.

Wednesday
Versailles
http://www.chateauversailles.fr/en/index.php
I’m a total novice with the train system outside of the Metro and bit apprehensive when approaching the ticket agents. I tried to buy the Versailles Pass the day before going, the Pass includes the rail trip and most the of the different entry fees at the palace but the agent talked me out if, he said it wasn’t a good deal. So I ended up with the just the rail tickets when I left the ticket window.

We got up early, the train ride was easy and a quick walk to the palace. We arrived at Versailles when the ticket office opened, there were no lines and went right in. Go in entrance A, for non ticket or pass holders to buy your pass. It was worth going early just for the interior photo opportunities, no crowds, we had most of the rooms to ourselves. The Hall of Mirrors is under restoration, the first portion is behind floor to ceiling partition walls, and about a third is viewable at the end. By the time we had finished with the house the parking lot was filled with tour buses and we headed to the gardens. Bikes, golf carts and row boats can be rented; we opted for walking, since the weather was fantastic. We walked out to the Grand Trianon, the king’s residence away from the palace and found a nice spot for our picnic. We brought in wine and food with no problem, I notice a few sights have no picnicking signs. Afterwards we headed over to the Queen’s Hamlet, amazing, worth the walk. Then off to Petit Trianon, which was quick tour and no toilets, so back to the Grand. Good toilets are hard to come by, go when you see them!

Thursday
Wandered the around on foot through the Left Bank for a few hours, it’s nice having the luxury of time. The last trip we rushed through everything. The weather continues to be warm and sunny; we opted to be outside than inside a museum. We headed over to the Eiffel Tower for some night photography, the tower lights flash for 10 mins at 8PM.

Friday
Wandered the right bank for a few hours.

Saturday
With all the wandering, my husband was tired but did not want to be cooped up inside since it was sunny outside. The parks were jammed with people and it was very hard to find a place to sit other than on a concrete wall. We purchased a two day pass on the L’Open hop-on / hop-off bus but we never hopped off. We rode each loop a couple of times, fantastic on the weekends when there is less city traffic. The boat tours are still crowded, and with the warm weather it wasn’t enjoyable to ride the Batobus for anything length of time, it would really get warm under that glass. None of their boats have open air seating; just a little section at the back of the boat is open air and standing room only. I’d like to do one of the river cruises, but probably at night for a different view. At least with the L’Open bus it’s a good way to spend the day and see all the sights.

Week 3
Week of October 23, 2005

Sunday
Rode the L’Open hop-on / hop-off bus, weather still sunny and warm.

Monday
La Defense – Grand Arch
We took the metro down to La Defense, the day was overcast, flat gray sky and we skipped going to the top and walked around the square instead. There are a few large retailers and restaurants in the area but not a lot of activity other than office workers. If time allows it worth a ride down to see the arch and look down to the Arc de Triomphe. I tried talking my husband into walking to the Arc but he wasn’t biting.

BHV & Bon Marche Dept Store
We took the metro over to the BHV department store and started in the basement and worked our way up. It’s interesting to see the selections and styles and it was a good way to overcome Target withdrawal. The store was packed and the cashier lines were long. For souvenir shopping I think Bon Marche is a better bet. I purchased table linens and bath products at Bon Marche, everything was on sale and no lines.

Tuesday
Monet’s House in Giverny (5.50E per person, Museum Pass not accepted)
Train fare from Gare St Lazare, 22E per person round trip. I purchased the tickets online from the SCNF site, no problem. But I could not use the Automated Ticket Machines to print the tickets at the station. My US issued credit card does not have the chip embedded like the European version and the ATM would not read the card. At first we went to the SCNF boutique shop but the line was really long and not moving. I went to the info desk for help and she pointed me to a row of blue ticket windows on the other side of the station. Many of the windows had the British flag hanging and it was easy to get an English speaking agent. With the reservation number and credit card, the agent printed our tickets and off we went in a matter of minutes. About a 45 minute ride to Vernon, go under the tracks and through the train station building. Across from the Café de Chemin de Fer is a bus that takes you to Giverny, 6E round trip, per person, save your receipt, the ride takes about 15 mins and than it’s a 5-10 min walk from the bus parking lot to the house.

The house was enjoyable the gardens surrounding it still have a lot of the color at the end of October, the geranium beds were amazing! Take the walkway under the road to the lily ponds. It’s a beautiful walk around the pond and there a few benches to sit, picnics not allowed. I would allow at least 2 hours to tour the house and gardens, the gift shop was a bit disappointing, but it was the end of their season and a few items were on sale. Across from the House entry is another gift shop and a take out restaurant. The gift shop had a great selection and it everything was on sale!

We walked over to the American Art Museum, 5.50E per person, not big but very nice and worth a visit, nice size café. With time to kill, we wandered Vernon, a good size town with quite a few shops and cafes, quite a few places to buy chocolate, beware!

Having been in the city for quite some time, Giverny was nice diversion and makes me think I should have broken up the 8 weeks, 4 weeks in the city and 4 weeks in Provence or another country location.




Wednesday
My husband left for home and I consoled my self at the Longchamps store off Blvd St Germain. So much easier to shop when he’s not around and that is quite the collection! Half the battle is picking the color, I went wild with the orange leather wallet, it even smells good…

More department stores…
Printemps
www.printemps.com

Galleries Lafayette
www.galerieslafayette.com

La Samaritaine
www.lasamaritaine.com
Closed from security work, does not list re-opening date.

Out of all the stores, BHV was the most interesting to walk through, but I enjoyed shopping experience at Bon Marche.

Thursday
Musse Marmottan Monet (Not covered by Museum Pass, 7E per person)
www.marmottan.com
Exceptional! I would put this on any first time visitor list. Mansion turned museum, the Water Lily paintings are brilliantly displayed in the basement. I thought the gift shop here was better than Giverny, great book selection. A wonderful park across the street, enjoyed my brown bag lunch on a bench, after leaving the museum I walked down rue de Passy for more window shopping.

Musee Maillol (Not covered by Museum Pass, 8E per person)
www.museemaillol.com
Aristide Maillol sculptures, drawings and engravings. Includes work from Degas, Picasso, Bonnard, Rodin and Matisse. I typically don’t go crazy over sculptures but I loved Maillol’s work. Fantastic museum, I’m assuming it was a former residence although its quite large, interesting rooms and a diverse collection, very enjoyable and a nice café in the basement, highly recommend a visit if time allows.

In Ina Gartner’s Barefoot in Paris cookbook she lists Barthelemy as one of the premier cheese shops in Paris, located at 51 rue de Grenelle, just a few doors down from Musee Maillol. I had my cheese listed ready and translated and the shop was closed! In trying to read the sign I was either between opening hours or they were closed until Nov 1st, I’ll give it another shot next week.

Saint Germain-Des-Pres (free)
Paris’ oldest church, bell tower dating from the 11th century. Across from the church are two famous cafes, Les Deux Magot and Le Café de Flore, sitting outside the church and people watching is more interesting.

Friday
Purchased a 5 day Museum Pass and headed to the Louve. With time on my side I also purchased the Louve guide book, covering the highlights of each collection, I’ve been reading the book at night, than touring the collection the next day; it’s been much more enjoyable with a deeper overview.

Saturday
Louve (covered by Museum Pass)

Conciergerie (covered by Museum Pass)
Former royal palace turned prison, includes Marie-Antoinette’s cell. I only went to for the cell, a recreation on half of the former cell location. The best part of the cell was the privacy screen with two guards on the other side. One guard was sitting at a table playing cards, reminds me of those long days at work killing time playing Freecell. If you have an abundance of time, cruise in to the see the cell, otherwise you’re not missing much.

Alicia,

I'm enjoying your report very much. Musee Marmottan and Musee Maillol are both on my list of must sees.

I'm looking forward to your cheese shop purchases. How did you develop your list? I try to start and just become overwhelmed by the choices. Same goes with the thought of trying to hone in on some "must try" wines.

Awaiting the rest of your report. Thanks

Loving this report. I plan to have nothing in mind but to be a flaneur in February and meet up with some friends for drinks , lunch or dinner.

Are you certain you can't take a week to go visit Provence? I wonder if your landlord wouldn't be agreeable to that...

Thank you, Alicia!!
A very informative and fun-to-read trip report! Can't wait to hear more....
Dina

Alicia, I join the others in envying your loooong stay in Paris. You are staying in my favorite arrondissment. Great report, I appreciate your detail. Looking forward to reading about your entire trip. There are so many marvelous regions to explore outside of Paris I hope you have a chance to discover them also. Deborah

Alicia,

Still enjoying your report very much. Looking foward to week 4.

I am pea green with envy at the thought of 8 wonderful weeks in Paris. Thanks for lettting me enjoy it vicariously.

topping because I think the apartment information is really good. Thanks. Looking forward to reading more. J.

Alicia - this is one of the best reports I have read. Nice going!

My guess is that you are probably about 2 inches shorter than before you left from all the walking!

Cheers, Tom

Week 4
Week of October 30, 2005
Not affected by the riots, no problems at all. You have no idea anything is going on unless you watch the news.

For last week I left out…
Saint Sulpice Cathedral, our free and quick version of the Da Vinci Code Tour. The pillar for the Rose Line is to the left when you walk in…

Musee de la Mode et de Textile (covered by Museum Pass)
Described as temporary exhibitions about contemporary fashion and accessories.

The museum is just down the street for the Carousel de Louve entrance, the gift shop has an incredible book selection. The textile fashion displays are well done and the use of video makes it more interesting since all the commentary is in French. But the jewelry display needs no translation, Oh My! Absolutely beautiful, if anything skip the fashion and go right in to see the jewelry.

Sunday
For Sunday I opted out of another day at the Louvre for smaller museums and more walking, the skies are blue and the weather is still warm, no jackets required.

Edward Delacroix Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
www.musee-delacroix.fr
The museum is housed in part of the Delacroix’s apt and studio, it’s very a small museum but worth a visit, there’s a great courtyard outside to enjoy. Allow about 30 mins or so, very close to St Germain des Pres if you’re in the area, swing by, it’s a nice change of pass from the big museums. The museum is located in home decorating central, fabric and home accessory stores everywhere you look.

Musee Hebert (Covered by Museum Pass but closed)
The Museum Pass booklet description reads as …Housed in the Hôtel de Montmorency, which was built in 1743, the Hebert Museum displays the works of Ernest Hébert (1817-1908), a well-known painter in the second half of the nineteenth century. A fashionable portraitist with a delicate style, Hébert led an official career under the Second Empire then during the Third Republic, when he was commissioned to decorate the apse of the Pantheon. It wasn’t until I arrived to the Museum that I found it was closed for renovation with no re-opening date listed, the museum is managed by D’Orsay and I could not find a website specifically for this museum with more information.
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/ORSAY/ORSA...x?OpenDocument

But not to worry, this is another good area (near Musee Hebert) for window shopping and wandering. I will be returning to visit Pomme et Poire at 105 rue du Cherche-Midi (www.pommeetpoire.com), beautiful display of glassware, ceramics and jewelry made in France, several other interesting shops and cafes in the areas.

Musee des Arts et Métiers (Covered by Museum Pass)
www.arts-et-metiers.net
No Museum Pass bypass line, wait in line to get an admission ticket and then take the elevator to the second floor to begin. Get the audio guide, the more prominent items have English descriptions but there’s a lot of intriguing items to look at.

The Museum Pass booklet description reads as… From the abbey founded by the kinds to the republican conservatoire, from the holy relics to the voltaic pile, an exceptional experience, follow the footsteps of inventors and discover the secrets of the machines and instruments.

Anyone interested in engineering, science and the mechanics of how things work would love this museum, however, that does not describe me, but this museum was the greatest escape from the abundance of art museums and I enjoyed it thoroughly. The museum is quite large, wide aisles, airy, and bright. Lots of mini videos screens that demonstrate how various machines work. Take a seat on one of the many leather sofas and play with the touch screen monitors or read through the display books. Go into the abbey section of the museum, interesting display set up of antique automobiles. A very nice café, again with leather chairs, a small gift shop and a great courtyard outside. This is probably the most kid friendly venue I’ve seen yet. For first time visitors with 10-14 days I would add this museum to the list as a great alternative to art museums, I’m sorry my husband missed this one.

Monday
I thought I would try and get a few hours in at the Louvre, boy-o-boy, the lines were long at every entrance! Skipped the Louvre and headed to the Gustave Moreau Museum.

Gustave Moreau (Covered by Museum Pass)
The museum is closed during lunch; I wandered the streets a bit. The museum was the apt and studio Moreau built in 1895. The apartment was lovely, a pleasant change from the big museums, plus having the opportunity to see where the artist lived and worked. The second and third floor studios are amazing. Along the windows there are cabinets containing small framed prints on hinges. Slide back the curtain and flip through the frames, similar to a poster rack. In the center of the rooms are large cabinets with hinged prints for viewing as well. Overall very nice, allow about an 60-90 mins, not much else in the area, but close to the Trinite metro, easy to get to from there.

Tuesday
National Holiday (Nov 1) and a beautiful fall day, ideal walking weather, headed to the top of the Arc d’ Triomphe for some pictures.

Arc d’ Triomphe (Covered by Museum Pass)
By pass line, go directly to the stairwell entrance in the arch, flash your card and start climbing. There are three levels at the top, first level has the toilets, second level is a museum and gift shop and the third level is outside, the terrace.

Wednesday
Willy Ronis exhibit at Hotel de Ville until Feb 16, 2006 (Free)
http://www.paris-update.com/art/ronis.htm
Excellent! Can you get more Parisian than this? Gorgeous photographs! The lines had been very long for days, finally caught a break on Wednesday afternoon and walked right in, but there still were a quite a few people inside. Several rooms to walk through, no gift shop.

Thursday
Orleans Day Trip
The ride from Paris Gare Austerlitz is about an hour, 33 euros round trip. There’s an 8A train, no transfers and a 430P return, also no transfers, gives you plenty of time to see the sights and have lunch. I made the mistake of getting off at the first Orleans stop, just outside the city center. Fortunately there is a very cool little tram that services downtown for 1,20E and it took a few minutes to reach the City Center train station. Starting my tour from the second station I followed the signs to the TI in order to get a map of the city.

The TI which is right next to the Musee des Beaux Arts Museum. The museum opens at 930A, the TI at 10A, and the Cathedrale St-Croix is across the street. The TI provides a simple and free map of the downtown area. Orleans has fantastic old streets to wander through, decent shopping with no crowds, plenty of places to eat. Plan accordingly, most if not all shops closed during lunch, re-opening at 2PM.

There were a couple of Orleans posts with concerns about navigating the train and city with elderly parents. The tram was directly outside the first train station I mistakenly got off at. From there you can ride the tram downtown and get off across the street from the Jeanne d’Arc House (Rue Jeanne d’Arc and Rue Royale). To get to the tram from the larger City Center station it’s a bit of walk, so it might make sense to get off at the first stop, hop the tram and be down town without much effort. There an easy to use ticket machine at the tram stop waiting area, validate the ticket when you board.

Orleans
www.ville-orleans.fr
In 1428, the English laid siege to Orleans along the Loire River. A year later, Jeanne d'Arc successfully led the fight against the English, triumphantly liberating the city. Since 1430, each year Orleans commemorates this victory with a Joan of Arc festival in the spring.

Musee des Beaux Arts (4E pp)
www.musees-centre.com (Fine Arts Museum)
Works by French (Le Nain, Delacroix, Gauguin), Flemish and Dutch (Brueghel, Ruysdael, Van Dyck) and Italian artists (Correggio, Carracci). There are also some superb 18th century pastels by Chardin, Quentin de La Tour and Perronneau. First impression, big! Start at the top and work you’re way, impressive collection, allow about 2 hours. I had the entire place to myself; most rooms had handouts in English. Ok gift shop, no café, just a few tables and a vending machine.

Cathedrale St-Croix (Free)
In the Cathedrale St-Croix you find Jeanne’s pedestal on an altar carved with scenes from here life. The 19-th century stained glass windows tell the rest of the story.

Maison de Jeanne d'Arc (1E, pp)
http://www.jeannedarc.com.fr/maison/maison.htm
After Nov 1 the house is open from 2-6P
Buyer beware, this is not the house she grew up in. The house known today as la Maison de Jeanne d'Arc actually belonged to a man called Jacques Boucher, who was Treasurer General of the Duc d'Orléans. Jeanne stayed as a guest of M. Boucher from April to May 1429, during the English siege of the town. And this is not the original house, which was destroyed by fire during World War 2. It’s a reproduction on the original site. I hate to be negative but I found this to be very disappointing, mostly town models in large glass display cases. No English commentary.

Friday
Returned to Pomme et Poire the shop on rue du Cherche-Midi, beautiful selection of dinner and glassware, very friendly and they do ship to the US.

I walked over to Barthelemy (the cheese shop of all cheese shops in Paris) at 51 rue de Grenelle, it was packed, and this place is tiny! I’ll give it one more try, instead I wandered over to Rue Cler and satisfied my cheese craving.

The other Ina Gartner - Barefoot In Paris cookbook spot listed is E. Dehillerin the cookware store. It’s not a glamorous setting but the selection is incredible. Now how do I justify purchasing a set of copper pots???
http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/presentationA.html

Saturday
National Steeplechase Weekend (3E, pp)
Hippordome D’Auteuil., Allée des Fortifications – Bois de Boulogne 75016 Paris
Described as… The only racecourse in Paris entirely devoted to steeplechase, it’s quite logical that Auteuil should host the “Week-end International de l’Obstacle”...This annual event is fast becoming the racecourse’s second most important date and was established to highlight the sporting dimension of steeplechase and to place the spotlight on regions upholding racing traditions and authentic values. This year once again, the weekend offers an outstanding programme of four Group I races. The Grand Prix d’Automne will be held on Saturday, while the 3 other races will be contested on Sunday: the Prix Maurice Gillois, the Prix Cambacérès and finally the Prix La Haye Jousselin, otherwise known as the Grand Steeple-Chase d’Automne, won seven times in a row by the legendary Al Capone II (from 1993 to 1999). A real thoroughbred racing event!
The crowds were not as big as I expected, but the big money races are on Sunday, but still a great time. Beautiful setting, Eiffel Tower in the background, lots of excited racing fans. Very easy to get to, the Metro stop is right there, walk under the tunnel and you’re in. Plenty of places to sit inside and out, TV monitors inside to watch the races, betting information available in English. Pony rides for the kids, merry-go-round, and a chocolate fondue tent!

In the first race, on the first turn, a jockey came off his horse and the horse just kept on going, jumping the remaining 10 or 11 fences, lead the pack over the entire course, the crowd went wild when the riderless horse crossed the line first! A classic racing moment!

Week 5
Week of November 6, 2005

Family visit, first time to Paris, repeat week 1.

Not affected by the riots. I took the RER to CDG twice to meet arriving guests, no problems. But take a taxi or the Air France bus, luggage and the trains are a bad mix.

Alicia your trip report is wonderful. Thanks for taking so much time to fill us in!

How wonderful!

Hello Alicia, I'm heading to paris for 15 days in feb This report is a fantastic addition to all my planning. It is so great to read about the smaller/lesser visited museums. Thank you so much for the time and care you are spending on giving all of us this great report. lynda

awsome info, thanks. Wasn't sure if I should get the Museum Pass, sounds like I should. Thanks

Tagging on to read later. Thank you.

Wonderful report, Alicia! Looking forward to more.

Hi Alicia,

I'm so envious of your trip. I dream of even a month in Paris.

Glad you liked the Maillol Museum. I finally went there last trip to Paris and I really liked his sculpture. What a contrast with Rodin's work. Even with the lack of movement and emotion in Maillol there is a feeling of something there. I haven't quite figured it out yet.

Week 6
Week of November 13, 2005

Sunday
Rue Mouffetard walk
Behind the Pantheon you’ll find Rue Mouffetard, similar to Rue Cler, pedestrian walk way with shops and restaurants but I would say Rue M is longer. There are several costume jewelry stores on Rue M, good selections and decent prices; I picked up quite a few pieces for gifts.

Monday
Rue de l’Universite and Rue Jacob walk
Spent some more time wandering around St Germain des Pres. I found a wonderful pottery and linen store called La Maison Ivre, (38, rue Jacob – 75006). The table lines are amazing and safer to bring home than pottery. If you’re in the market for upscale children’s boutiques, there a few shops on Universite that are incredible!

Tuesday
Next round of guests arrives, spent some time walking around. For the most part the weather has been decent; although cold it’s been very comfortable to walk at night.

Wednesday
Musee de la Monnaie / The Coin and Medal Museum (Covered by the Museum Pass)
www.monnaiedeparis.fr
Described as… Development and coinage manufacturing techniques from ancient times to present day. The commentary is in French, unless you are a coin collector I would skip this museum. Although if you would like to buy a gift for a coin collection the boutique is gorgeous! Located on the Left Bank, very easy to get to from the Louvre, cross on Pont des Arts.

Musee de l’Institut du Monde Arabe (Covered by the Museum Pass)
www.imarabe.org
Described as… Arab and Islamic art and civilizations, works from Syrian and Tunisian museums. Start on the 7th floor and work your way down. At the end of Blvd St Germain across from the Ile St Louis and the Pont de Sully. The modern interior is a nice change of pace, well laid out, and overall a very nice collection. Allow 60-90 minutes and check out the calendar for special expositions (not covered by Museum Pass).

Louvre (Covered by the Museum Pass)
Open late Weds and Fri until 9:45PM
Spent a few more hours at the Louvre, working my way through the paintings.

Thursday
Chapelle Expiatoire (Covered by Museum Pass)
After Nov 1st open Thurs, Fri & Sat from 1-5PM.
Described as… Built at Louis XVIII's request, the "Chapelle Expiatoire" is dedicated to the memory of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie-Antoinette. It is located at the former place of a graveyard where have been buried 3 000 victims of the Revolution. The expiatory chapel was designed by the architect Pierre-François-Léonard Fontaine in 1815. It was built on the site of the cemetery where Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were buried after having been guillotined in the present place de la Concorde in 1793. This unknown masterpiece is the symbol of the Restoration. Contrary to the great civic monuments built in the 19th century, this funerary edifice is first a religious monument. For the architectural composition and the beauty of the sculpting, this rather small "temple" is a perfect example of the late Neoclassicism. In this expiatory monument, art and memory are perfectly combined.

An easy walk (5-10 minute) from the Madeline Church, up Blvd Malesherbes to Rue Anjou, the building is the middle of Square Louis XVI (small park). A very informative handout card in English is available at the ticket office. Odd opening times make it a challenge to visit, but well worth it, allow 30-45 minutes.

Another easy walk (15 minutes) up Blvd Malesherbes and you’re at Musee Camondo.

Musee Nissim de Camondo (Covered by Museum Pass)
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
No bybass line, pick up an entry ticket and handout at the ticket counter.
Described as…. Visit this museum for a keen insight into the decorative arts of the 18th century. The pre-World War I town house was donated to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs by Comte Moïse de Camondo in memory of his son, Nissim, a French aviator killed in combat during World War I. The museum is like the home of an aristocrat -- rich with needlepoint chairs, tapestries (many from Beauvais or Aubusson), antiques, paintings, bas-reliefs, silver, Chinese vases, crystal chandeliers, Sèvres porcelain, Savonnerie carpets, and even a Houdon bust. The Blue Salon, overlooking Parc Monceau, is most impressive. The kitchen of the original mansion has been reopened in its original format, capable of serving hundreds of dinner guests at one time, with few alterations from its original Belle Epoque origins. Fittings and many of the cooking vessels are in brass or copper, and the walls are tiled.

For a visit time visitor with 7 or more days I would add this museum to your sightseeing list and a must do for those on return trips to Paris. The former residence provides an outstanding overview from the art collector stand point. You really come a way with a sense of how one wealthy family lived, collected and displayed art in that period. It’s a much different take than the traditional art museum environment, beautiful and very enjoyable. English handout dates the key pieces in each room. Allow 60-90 minutes, tours available in French only.

Musee Jean-Jacques Henner (Covered by Museum Pass)
Described as… Paintings and drawings by Henner (1829-1905)
A quick walk from the Musee Camando and upon arrival there was a noticed on the door, “Closed for Renovation” with no re-opening date.

Turned back and walk through Park Monceau and headed over to the Arc’d’Triompe, about a 15 minute walk.

Musee d’Orsay (Covered by the Museum Pass)
Open late on Thursdays till 9:45P.
Very quiet, no tour or school groups, it was a great time to walk around between 6-8PM.

Friday
Musee de l’Assistance Publique / Hopitaux de Paris (Covered by the Museum Pass)
www.aphp.fr
2 minute walk from the Notre Dame, Left Bank, back side of the cathedral.
Closed Mondays, holidays, and the month of August
Described as….Devoted to the history of the hospitals of Paris from the foundation of the Hôtel-Dieu in the 7th century to the beginning of the 20th century, the museum displays collections whose diversity shows the many aspects of hospital life: paintings, etchings and photographs, pharmacy items and treatment equipment, furniture, archives and textbooks. I think this museum is worth a visit for 2nd time visitors or anyone in the medical / health field. The museum houses a wide arrange of items, the pharmacy jars (ceramic) are gorgeous and the surgery paintings are truly fascinating. Allow 45 minutes.

Saturday
Le Cordon Bleu one day cooking class
http://www.lcbparis.com/
Metro: Vaugirard

The cooking class was totally kick ass! I had a fantastic time, definitely one of the highlights of my trip! The Chef was amazing as well as entertaining, even through the translator. It's a standard class room set up with a long mirror that runs above the work surface to view what's going on. Questions and picture taking allowed. In the demonstration portion the Chef prepared two dishes and one dessert, we sampled everything, with wine.

Le Menu
Lyon style sausage with pistachios and mustard in a golden puff pastry with mixed salad

Golden pan friend cod, fork crushed fingerling potato puree with truffle

Snow egg (large meringue balls) with coconut cream, maple syrup caramel with freshly grated coconut. This was interesting; the meringue balls were cooked slightly in coconut milk, than served with coconut creak sauce and shavings.

It’s possible to attend just the demonstration portion in the morning. But the hand on portion was a lot of fun, we prepared the cod dish and to my surprise each student cooked their own meal, I would have expected to us to be paired off. Take home containers are provided.

Week 7
Week of November 20, 2005

Sunday – Tuesday, multi day mental break from museums, spend a lot of time walking around, turned very cold.

Wednesday
Musee national de la Marine (Covered by the Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-marine.fr
Described as… History of the French navy from the 17th century to the present day. Thematic approach to shipbuilding, nautical instruments, paintings and sculptures.

The museum is across the river from the Eiffel Tower, a popular spot for tower photography. The ship models are incredible, all sizes. There’s a model ship building shop where you can watch the models being built / repaired. Loads of display cases containing nautical instruments and memorabilia. The paintings are absolutely amazing, a wide range of subjects from navy battles, sailing, air force carriers, container ships, row boats, fish and anything related to oceanography.

This museum is a must do for anyone interested in ships, sailing and or boating. If you’re not a sailor, just head downstairs and take a look at the painting exhibits, very worthwhile just for the range and quality of work. Beautiful exhibition of Japanese prints and watercolors. It’s not a hands on museum but the kids may enjoy abundance and variety of the model ships. Fantastic book store, most books in French but it was fun to browse the coffee table / photography books.

Centre Pompidou – Musee national d’Art moderne (Covered by the Museum Pass)
http://www.cnac-gp.fr/Pompidou/Accue...unnel?OpenForm
By pass entry, take the escalators to the top floor, (great views) flash your card, enter and work your way down.
I know very little about 20 century art, which is probably why I waited till the end to visit the Pompidou. I walked through the galleries on the 5th floor and purchased a few books. Incredible selection of books and postcards! I’ve decided to make 20th century art a homework assignment and will make a return visit to the Pompidou on the next trip. A Martin Scorsese cinema exhibit opened the night and will be on until March 6, 2006.

Thursday (Thanksgiving)

E. Dehillerin – the culinary store
http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/presentationA.html
Question, what do Americans in Paris do on Thanksgiving? Answer, they shop for copper pots. I meet more Americans here than the Louvre and d’Orsay combined! The store was packed! But I placed by order for copper pots and bowls, the prices were great, pre-tax but the shipping and insurance cost, ouch!

Musee national des Arts asiatiques – Guimet (Covered by the Museum Pass)
http://www.museeguimet.fr/
Described as… Exceptional collection of sculptures, paintings and objects d’art illustrating the diverse cultures and civilizations of the continent of Asia, with a scope which is as vast in time (five thousand years) as it is in the area (from India to Japan). After 20th century art I know even less about Asian art but this museum was a joy to walk through. The rooms are very thoughtfully laid out. If short on time, pick a region and wander, I spent most of my time walking through the Tibet and Japan rooms. The museum is a good size but easy to navigate and access a specific region of interest. I purchased the Guimet Museum guide, provides a nice introduction. Along with Pompidou, the Guimet is on return visit list. Highly recommended, spend 30 minutes or more.

For Thanksgiving dinner, actually dessert, we treated ourselves to many wonderful delights from La Grande Epicerie de Paris, I’m really going to miss that place!

Friday
Musee national des Arts et Traditions populaires (Covered by the Museum Pass)
Described as French ethnological heritage, everyday items, archives, audio visual presentations.

Closed! It wasn’t until I arrived at the museum that I discovered it was closed. In reading the sign it seems this museum is being converted into the museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations and relocated. I pulled up the website when I came home and found… reads: For the first time in France a national museum will move to the provinces, to Marseille. By decision of the Ministry for the Arts the Musée National des Arts et Traditions populaires (MNATP) will be transformed into a museum of European and Mediterranean civilizations.
http://www.musee-europemediterranee.org/

Musee Galliera – Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris (Covered by the Museum Pass)
History of fashion
http://www.v1.paris.fr/musees/musee_...ra/default.htm
Not bad, not sure if I would add to your must see list except the building and grounds make it worth a gander. A small building set inside a fantastic little park, lots of places to sit, fountain and grassy areas. Ideal spot for a picnic and easy access to the toilets inside the museum!

I went to Invalides over two days, both days the museum closed at 4:45P instead of 6P. Not sure if it’s a seasonal or staffing issue.

Musee de l’Armee at Invalides (Covered by the Museum Pass)
WWII Exhibits
Commentary in French but the visual presentation of the exhibit and video clips make it easy to follow along, quite large, allow a good hour, perhaps 90 minutes.

Armour WWI Exhbits
Still closed for renovation

Louis XIV to Napoleon III Exhibits
The history of France from 1650 to 1871 as recounted through its army battles and Napoleonic souvenirs.
Commentary in French but I enjoyed the Cavalry exhibit and Napeleon’s horse & dog (stuffed). Several floors and quite a bit to look at, just casually wandering, took me about an hour.

Musee de l’Ordre de la Liberation at Invalides (Covered by the Museum Pass)
Museum of France after the Liberation, the French Resistance and Deportation.
Unless I missed something, this museum consisted of a long hallway within the Hotel des Invalides with info banners and a few exhibit pieces. The door at the end of the hall was locked, hmm.

Musee des Plans-relief at Invalides (Covered by the Museum Pass)
Located on the 4th floor above the Louis XIV to Napoleon III Exhibits
Described as…A unique collection of models of French cities and their surrounding countryside commission by the state of from Louis XIV to Napoleon III. Relief maps are scale models of fortified sites, made from 1668 and onwards. These strategic tools provided an accurate representation of towns and the surrounding countryside within artillery range. First impression, was wow just on the number and size of the relief maps! The room is really dark and it’s a bit to adjust and realize how many maps are in the room. I think the most interesting is the Mont St Michel, and worth a visit. When you enter the room, turn left and Mont St Michel is the last map. Allow 15-20 minutes.

Saturday
It snowed in Paris! Wandered around Notre Dame in the morning to take some pictures, caution slush and cobble stones are a bad mix.

Musee de la Musique (Covered by the Museum Pass)
http://www.cite-musique.fr/
Described as… A rich collection of musical instruments from the 16th century up to modern times.
Open Noon to 6P, Tuesday – Friday and 10A-6P on Saturday

Absolutely amazing John Lennon special exhibit! Go! Go! Go! By far one of the best “special exhibits” I’ve seen in a long time. A fantastic mix of music, video, art and memorabilia, particularly the Peace Bed you can lay and watch the Peach Bed interview. Fun and lively! The kids enjoyed the many music filled red telephone booths with video monitors. The exhibit is on until June 2006. The museum is easy to reach, right outside the Porte de Pantin metro. Allow at least 90 minutes for the Lennon exhibit.

The permanent collection is worth a look if time allows. Audio guide included and recommended. The audio guide automatically turns on and tunes into the section of instruments you’re looking at. Talks about the instruments and plays musical examples. Several floors to wander, allow 60-90 minutes. The book store has a wide variety of books and CDs. The John Lennon exhibit book was nice, but at 30 Euros I passed.

Cite des Sciences et de l’Industrie (Covered by the Museum Pass)
www.cite-sciences.fr
Described as… The biggest museum in Europe on science and technology.
Big is not the world, its mammoth and probably the ultimate destination for kids in Paris outside of Euro Disney. It’s a 15 minute walk through the park from the Musee de la Musique or take the metro to Porte de la Villette.

As soon as you arrive in Paris you’ll see thousands of ads for the Star Wars L’Expo, this is where it’s at until August 27, 2006. The Star War exhibit is E10,50 or add the Effects Film and the price goes to E17,90, slightly less for children under 7.

Many of the exhibits are presented in English such as Endangered Plants, Star Wars, Biometrics: The Body as Identity, Open Questions, Vitrum, the Art and Science of Glass in the Roman World and Water for All. Maybe it doesn’t sound exciting but the kids will love the play rooms. And the play rooms were packed today as it was a snowy and cold Saturday. There are two science villages for kids ages 3-5 and 5-12, sessions must be reserved at the ticket disk, 4 or 5 sessions a day last 90 minutes and cost E5,50. There is also a Shadows Revealed exhibit for kids, until September 5, 2006, looks way cool. The museum has plays several shows and films, but the Planetarium will be closed from January 3 to July 4, 2006. Free aquarium but the Argonaute submarine costs E3. I would say this is a good half day if not all day visit.

Alicia,
Thanks so much for all this wonderful information--I'm going to file it for the future. Was wonderfing--any "stellar" restaurants that stand out that you'd care to share with us?

Thanks again for this report.

Alicia,

Still loving the report. Sorry it's ending soon.

E. Dehillerin is about my favorite store anywhere. Readers should be advised that their website only carries a fraction of what is available in the actual store.

Alicia - thanks so much.

Alicia...Loving the report and the valuable information you are providing. Thank you!

alicia, thanks again for the great report. Are you having any snow yet? The weather.com folks are saying possible snow showers in their forcasts these days and I'm just wondering if it is really happening....lynda

Wonderful report. But isn't something missing? Eight weeks and no report on restaurants and /or cafes??? You must have been to a couple in all that time.

topping... still looking for that 8th week!

ttt for apartment info