8 Weeks in Paris -Trip Report 2005
 

As a novice European traveler the boards have been invaluable for information, advice and ideas. This fall I’ve been fortunate enough to arrange an 8 week stay in Paris and would like to share my experience with future visitors.

I’ve been to Paris twice, a day trip from Germany and a 5 day stay during the month of January a few years ago. This trip I have no plans other to walk, walk and walk some more.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your insights, it’s made planning less overwhelming and more enjoyable!
Alicia

The apartment rental
I used several rental agency sites, VRBO, various Paris rental agencies, and Craig’s List and contacted approx 40 rentals for price and availability. At first I thought I would like to be in Montmarte but I had only spent an evening in the area on a previous trip. But in the end the central location of the Latin Quarter was appealing as well as the apt amenities and the price.

Through VRBO I selected apt #20017, (http://www.vrbo.com/20017) includes W&D, high speed internet, VCR, DVD & TV with English movie channels, BBC and CNN. It’s a one bedroom loft with queen size bed (loft is 5 feet high), living room / dining room with a futon, table and chairs.

The kitchen is nice, 2 people can easy work in the kitchen together, includes cook top, microwave, convention oven, toaster, under the counter size refrigerator, small freezer but enough to make ice cubs for cocktails, a coffee pot and all utensils, dishes, glasses and pots.

The bathroom is a good size, big tub (long), lots of towels (big), hair dryer, iron and ironing board included.

From the pictures it’s a bit deceiving and ended up being bigger than I thought. The loft is more comfortable than I expected even with the low ceilings. The ceiling in the living room is quite high, two big windows that face an interior alley. The plus side it’s very quiet at night since the windows do not face the street, but no view, which is ok since I’m not in during the day.

Controlled entry, very safe area and well lighted inside and out. The apt was spotless, linens and bedding in great condition, big towels, plenty of pillows and blankets. Weekly cleaning service included. Two door keys available so guests and I could come and go separately and all utilities included.

The apt is on a side street between Blvd St Germain & Blvd St Michel, a ton of inexpensive restaurants outside the door. Close to the Cluny and St Michel Metro stops and 2 mins to Notre Dame. Lots of shopping in any direction, and quite a few movie theatres in the area. An internet café a few doors down which is open 24x7, 3E per hour for internet use.

I would highly recommend the apt, has everything you need in a central location, quiet and clean and well priced. Christian and Marie Guerin are the owners of #20017, they were very prompt in responding to my first inquiry and patient in answering all my questions. The contract was very straight forward and wire transfer process was quite easy.

The Guerin’s also own 2 more apts, one smaller and one larger. This week I took at look at the larger apt (http://www.vrbo.com/17513); for future reference. The larger apt has an actual bedroom instead of a loft. #17513 is Very nice, good size and very close to Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, looks like it does in the pictures, nice high ceilings.

Week 1: October 9, 2005

The weather has been fantastic all week, blue skies and warm temps.

Always a popular question…What is everyone wearing?
Very casual, jeans, lots Puma and Puma style sneakers or black shoes/boots, trail shoes, lots of scarves, casual jackets or sweaters. I have yet to see anyone wearing a baseball hat. And I’ve been watching since baseball hats are always a discussion with my hat loving husband when we travel.

Messenger bags are very popular, lots of backpacks, very few fanny packs. This week only the Rodin Museum (house) required checking the backpack, everywhere else it’s been an “open the bag check” and in you go.

Sunday
Arrived via train from Mannheim Germany at the Paris Est train station, 10E cab ride to the Latin Quarter.

Monday
Walked to the grocery store around 8:00, wasn’t open yet, got a cup of coffee and headed to Notre Dame. I love the early morning, so quiet. The grocery store wasn’t as intimidating as I expected, it was fairly easy to figure out the lunch meat and cheese. There are several small grocery stores less than 5 minutes away from the apt. In the late morning I walked along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower, around the tower and headed over to Rue Cler. From the apt the Eiffel Tower is about a 45-60 min walk.

Tuesday
I headed to the Blvd Raspail Street Market. I love Barefoot Contessa cookbook’s by Ina Gartner. In her Barefoot in Paris cookbook she lists the Raspail Market as the one that made her want to live in Paris. It was very nice, a lot of produce, amazing seafood and a cheese stand or 2. I walked over to the La Grande Epicerie de Paris (Bon Marche food market) next to the main dept store and did some gift shopping.

I walked Blvds St Michel and St Germain, and found the Diptyque store (34 Blvd St Germain). New candle and perfume scents were released a few weeks ago, well worth stopping by and sniffing. The staff was very friendly.

Wednesday
Husband and sister in law arrived, this is her first visit to Paris, with nice weather but still tired from the flight, we rode all 4 routes of the L’Open hop on-hop off bus, which provided a nice over view of the major sites. The L’Open has a few more stops and covers a larger area than the other bus company. 28E per person for a 2 day pass, consecutive days, accepts major credits, pay on the bus.

Thursday
Buying Museum Passes: Several of the area Metro stations were out of the 3 and 5 day Museum Passes, we purchased 5 day passes at Notre Dame (credit cards accepted) but the very top of the bell tower was closed, the other exterior top walk was open but we wanted to go to the Bell Tower that we missed on the last trip. Rumor has it was a staffing issue(?). Opted out of Notre Dame until the bell tower would be open and headed to Invalides instead.

Invalides – Napoleon’s Tomb (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.invalides.org/
This huge domed structure was constructed in the late 17th century under the direction of Louis XIV to shelter old and wounded soldiers and includes the more recent addition of Napoleon's tomb.

Sainte Chapelle (covered by Museum Pass)
Church dates back to the 13th century, amazing stained glass windows.
A must see, but no Museum Pass bypass line, must wait with everyone else.

Eiffel Tower (10,50E per person, credit cards accepted)
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/
Wait in line together when buying tickets; I was going to have my husband buy tickets while we wandered to take pictures until I realized that after buying the tickets at the counter you go through security and into the waiting room for the elevator. Fortunately the lines were not long and we were able to catch up with him quickly at the ticket counter. We went at dusk, the top level was jammed with people and not enjoyable, we dropped down a level for more room to roam and the views were spectacular.

Friday
Pantheon (covered by Museum Pass)
I like the Rick Steves’ guide books and he lists the Pantheon as a Paris disappointment but I enjoyed the museum. We were just in time for the 2:30P walk up to the Dome. The tour to the dome is lead but no commentary, but questions are allowed. We walked to three different levels, the first level within the building over looking the pendulum, the second two outside. The third level at the top of the dome offered amazing views. Great views of Notre Dame and Sacre Coure, a bit hazy but the view of the Eiffel Tower was decent and with a bit of effort you can find the very top of the Arc de Triomphe.

D’Orsay (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-orsay.fr
With the Museum Pass enter around the corner in entrance C/D.

Lourve (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.louvre.fr
Open late until 945P, two entry lines, for people with bags to be scanned and the other for people not carrying bags, moves quickly.

Saturday
Catacombs (5E per person, not covered by Museum Pass, 15E minimum for credit card payments)
Underground stone quarries that hold the 200-year-old skeletons of several million people.
Interesting and worth the visit if you have time but be prepared, no toilets at the ticket office and it’s a long walk to the other end. The tour ends on Rue Remy Dumoncel between the Alesia and Mouton Duvernet Metro stops.

Rodin Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-rodin.fr/
Beautiful gardens, great place to picnic, the public parks were jammed all week, this would be a great place to hang out for a while. Plenty of places to sit outside and toilets easily accessible.

Picasso Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-picasso.fr/
The museum is larger than I expected, very enjoyable. On display were several of his sketch books and on the computers you could flip through the sketch books to see the other pages, very well done. Close to the Victor Hugo mansion, great neighborhood to wander around.

Promenade Plantee Park (free)
We had seen the park in the movie Before Sunset with Ethan Hawke. The Promenade is a two mile walk on a former elevated train track, its narrow but the plantings and elevated views were great. To get there we walked from the Picasso Museum towards the Bastille Opera House. The entrance is one block past the Opera, walk with the Opera on your left, down rue de Lyon. Look for the brick wall with the stair case leading up. Lots of places to sit and relax, one public toilet but not in useable condition.

Hi Alicia. My, you really did do a lot of walking. You accomplished so much in a short time!!

I have been to Paris many times and still havent seen some of the sites you have!! Somehow I become 'waylaid' by all those amazing cafes!

I look forward to hearing more! How I would love to have 8 weeks in Paris.

Alicia,

Checking in early for the long haul. I really liked the Week One trip report. What a busy week! I get the feeling that by Week Eight (when the sightseeing is long over), this may start to read more like a diary...

Alicia,
Great report!!
Thanks for the mentioned re:Picasso notebooks on computer. May be worth another visit!!
8 weeks...I bet they flew?
((*))

Time does fly when you are having this wonderful time. Happy I stopped by to enjoy this.

Eight weeks in Paris - how absolutely delightful!!

Looking forward to the rest of your report and am so jealous of your time there! Someday.....

Yes, really looking forward to another installment! I too am looking forward to a day by day report once you run out of tourist attractions.

I would KILL for eight weeks in Paris..oh you lucky girl. If you talk about food, if you ordered kidneys, PLEASE keep it to yourself!!! LOL Looking forward to the rest.

Alicia, TTT - We're waiting for the next 7 weeks of your trip :)

Quelle Chance vous avez! I would love to take 8 weeks and go to Paris with my 4 1/2 year old. I'm dreaming of that in the early summer months so that he can go to French summer school while I explore the city!

We'll be there Dec 12-20 and dec 27-29 - in the Luxembourg area (closer to Montparnasse) -- can't wait!!!

Looking forward to a continued vicarious experience!

Week 2
Week of October 16, 2005

Sunday
Went back to Notre Dame in the morning, top of the Bell Tower still closed, but we toured the rest. Even with the Museum Pass you still have to wait in line as they only allow so many people to go up at a time.

Musee des Egouts de Paris - Sewer Museum (covered by Museum Pass)
Yes it does smell, but we wanted to make the most of the Museum Pass. The museum was interesting and the commentary in French and English was excellent. Provides an overview of how the city evolved and grew. At the end there a few TVs with video files that show what happens when Seine overflows from heavy rain, videos are short but well done.

Opera Garnier (7E per person, not covered by Museum Pass, cash only)
http://www.opera-de-paris.fr/
Breathtaking interiors, not to be missed.

Monday
Musee National d'Art-Moderne Centre Georges Pompidou (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.cnac-gp.fr/Pompidou/Accue...unnel?OpenForm
Wasn’t a big hit with my husband.

Musee du Moyen Age, Thermes de Cluny (covered by Museum Pass)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/
15th century mansion, Medieval and gothic, site of Gallo-Roman baths, heads of Notre Dame. The Cluny was a big hit and if time allows worth a visit, close to Notre Dame & the Latin Quarter.

Tuesday
Sacre Coeur (Church free, 5E to walk up to the dome)

Place de Tertre - Montmarte
It was difficult to walk around without being approached by portrait artists, but enjoyable.

Canal St Martin - Boat Cruise
www.canauxrama.com
14E per person, credit cards and cash accepted
2 ½ hour boat ride through 8 double locks, starts at Parc de la Villette and ends at Bastille.
Ameile is one of my favorite movies and I couldn’t wait to get up to the Canal St Martin area. We decided to try the canal boat cruise to give the feet a rest. The cruise was nice but most of the time is spent getting in and out of the double locks, save the cruise for when you’re tired but you want to be out sightseeing. I’ll head back up on foot and to some exploring.

Wednesday
Versailles
http://www.chateauversailles.fr/en/index.php
I’m a total novice with the train system outside of the Metro and bit apprehensive when approaching the ticket agents. I tried to buy the Versailles Pass the day before going, the Pass includes the rail trip and most the of the different entry fees at the palace but the agent talked me out if, he said it wasn’t a good deal. So I ended up with the just the rail tickets when I left the ticket window.

We got up early, the train ride was easy and a quick walk to the palace. We arrived at Versailles when the ticket office opened, there were no lines and went right in. Go in entrance A, for non ticket or pass holders to buy your pass. It was worth going early just for the interior photo opportunities, no crowds, we had most of the rooms to ourselves. The Hall of Mirrors is under restoration, the first portion is behind floor to ceiling partition walls, and about a third is viewable at the end. By the time we had finished with the house the parking lot was filled with tour buses and we headed to the gardens. Bikes, golf carts and row boats can be rented; we opted for walking, since the weather was fantastic. We walked out to the Grand Trianon, the king’s residence away from the palace and found a nice spot for our picnic. We brought in wine and food with no problem, I notice a few sights have no picnicking signs. Afterwards we headed over to the Queen’s Hamlet, amazing, worth the walk. Then off to Petit Trianon, which was quick tour and no toilets, so back to the Grand. Good toilets are hard to come by, go when you see them!

Thursday
Wandered the around on foot through the Left Bank for a few hours, it’s nice having the luxury of time. The last trip we rushed through everything. The weather continues to be warm and sunny; we opted to be outside than inside a museum. We headed over to the Eiffel Tower for some night photography, the tower lights flash for 10 mins at 8PM.

Friday
Wandered the right bank for a few hours.

Saturday
With all the wandering, my husband was tired but did not want to be cooped up inside since it was sunny outside. The parks were jammed with people and it was very hard to find a place to sit other than on a concrete wall. We purchased a two day pass on the L’Open hop-on / hop-off bus but we never hopped off. We rode each loop a couple of times, fantastic on the weekends when there is less city traffic. The boat tours are still crowded, and with the warm weather it wasn’t enjoyable to ride the Batobus for anything length of time, it would really get warm under that glass. None of their boats have open air seating; just a little section at the back of the boat is open air and standing room only. I’d like to do one of the river cruises, but probably at night for a different view. At least with the L’Open bus it’s a good way to spend the day and see all the sights.

Week 3
Week of October 23, 2005

Sunday
Rode the L’Open hop-on / hop-off bus, weather still sunny and warm.

Monday
La Defense – Grand Arch
We took the metro down to La Defense, the day was overcast, flat gray sky and we skipped going to the top and walked around the square instead. There are a few large retailers and restaurants in the area but not a lot of activity other than office workers. If time allows it worth a ride down to see the arch and look down to the Arc de Triomphe. I tried talking my husband into walking to the Arc but he wasn’t biting.

BHV & Bon Marche Dept Store
We took the metro over to the BHV department store and started in the basement and worked our way up. It’s interesting to see the selections and styles and it was a good way to overcome Target withdrawal. The store was packed and the cashier lines were long. For souvenir shopping I think Bon Marche is a better bet. I purchased table linens and bath products at Bon Marche, everything was on sale and no lines.

Tuesday
Monet’s House in Giverny (5.50E per person, Museum Pass not accepted)
Train fare from Gare St Lazare, 22E per person round trip. I purchased the tickets online from the SCNF site, no problem. But I could not use the Automated Ticket Machines to print the tickets at the station. My US issued credit card does not have the chip embedded like the European version and the ATM would not read the card. At first we went to the SCNF boutique shop but the line was really long and not moving. I went to the info desk for help and she pointed me to a row of blue ticket windows on the other side of the station. Many of the windows had the British flag hanging and it was easy to get an English speaking agent. With the reservation number and credit card, the agent printed our tickets and off we went in a matter of minutes. About a 45 minute ride to Vernon, go under the tracks and through the train station building. Across from the Café de Chemin de Fer is a bus that takes you to Giverny, 6E round trip, per person, save your receipt, the ride takes about 15 mins and than it’s a 5-10 min walk from the bus parking lot to the house.

The house was enjoyable the gardens surrounding it still have a lot of the color at the end of October, the geranium beds were amazing! Take the walkway under the road to the lily ponds. It’s a beautiful walk around the pond and there a few benches to sit, picnics not allowed. I would allow at least 2 hours to tour the house and gardens, the gift shop was a bit disappointing, but it was the end of their season and a few items were on sale. Across from the House entry is another gift shop and a take out restaurant. The gift shop had a great selection and it everything was on sale!

We walked over to the American Art Museum, 5.50E per person, not big but very nice and worth a visit, nice size café. With time to kill, we wandered Vernon, a good size town with quite a few shops and cafes, quite a few places to buy chocolate, beware!

Having been in the city for quite some time, Giverny was nice diversion and makes me think I should have broken up the 8 weeks, 4 weeks in the city and 4 weeks in Provence or another country location.




Wednesday
My husband left for home and I consoled my self at the Longchamps store off Blvd St Germain. So much easier to shop when he’s not around and that is quite the collection! Half the battle is picking the color, I went wild with the orange leather wallet, it even smells good…

More department stores…
Printemps
www.printemps.com

Galleries Lafayette
www.galerieslafayette.com

La Samaritaine
www.lasamaritaine.com
Closed from security work, does not list re-opening date.

Out of all the stores, BHV was the most interesting to walk through, but I enjoyed shopping experience at Bon Marche.

Thursday
Musse Marmottan Monet (Not covered by Museum Pass, 7E per person)
www.marmottan.com
Exceptional! I would put this on any first time visitor list. Mansion turned museum, the Water Lily paintings are brilliantly displayed in the basement. I thought the gift shop here was better than Giverny, great book selection. A wonderful park across the street, enjoyed my brown bag lunch on a bench, after leaving the museum I walked down rue de Passy for more window shopping.

Musee Maillol (Not covered by Museum Pass, 8E per person)
www.museemaillol.com
Aristide Maillol sculptures, drawings and engravings. Includes work from Degas, Picasso, Bonnard, Rodin and Matisse. I typically don’t go crazy over sculptures but I loved Maillol’s work. Fantastic museum, I’m assuming it was a former residence although its quite large, interesting rooms and a diverse collection, very enjoyable and a nice café in the basement, highly recommend a visit if time allows.

In Ina Gartner’s Barefoot in Paris cookbook she lists Barthelemy as one of the premier cheese shops in Paris, located at 51 rue de Grenelle, just a few doors down from Musee Maillol. I had my cheese listed ready and translated and the shop was closed! In trying to read the sign I was either between opening hours or they were closed until Nov 1st, I’ll give it another shot next week.

Saint Germain-Des-Pres (free)
Paris’ oldest church, bell tower dating from the 11th century. Across from the church are two famous cafes, Les Deux Magot and Le Café de Flore, sitting outside the church and people watching is more interesting.

Friday
Purchased a 5 day Museum Pass and headed to the Louve. With time on my side I also purchased the Louve guide book, covering the highlights of each collection, I’ve been reading the book at night, than touring the collection the next day; it’s been much more enjoyable with a deeper overview.

Saturday
Louve (covered by Museum Pass)

Conciergerie (covered by Museum Pass)
Former royal palace turned prison, includes Marie-Antoinette’s cell. I only went to for the cell, a recreation on half of the former cell location. The best part of the cell was the privacy screen with two guards on the other side. One guard was sitting at a table playing cards, reminds me of those long days at work killing time playing Freecell. If you have an abundance of time, cruise in to the see the cell, otherwise you’re not missing much.

Alicia,

I'm enjoying your report very much. Musee Marmottan and Musee Maillol are both on my list of must sees.

I'm looking forward to your cheese shop purchases. How did you develop your list? I try to start and just become overwhelmed by the choices. Same goes with the thought of trying to hone in on some "must try" wines.

Awaiting the rest of your report. Thanks

Loving this report. I plan to have nothing in mind but to be a flaneur in February and meet up with some friends for drinks , lunch or dinner.

Are you certain you can't take a week to go visit Provence? I wonder if your landlord wouldn't be agreeable to that...

Thank you, Alicia!!
A very informative and fun-to-read trip report! Can't wait to hear more....
Dina

Alicia, I join the others in envying your loooong stay in Paris. You are staying in my favorite arrondissment. Great report, I appreciate your detail. Looking forward to reading about your entire trip. There are so many marvelous regions to explore outside of Paris I hope you have a chance to discover them also. Deborah

Alicia,

Still enjoying your report very much. Looking foward to week 4.

I am pea green with envy at the thought of 8 wonderful weeks in Paris. Thanks for lettting me enjoy it vicariously.