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denisea Feb 23rd, 2014 05:37 PM

50 and Fabulous in 2015---need help planning my trip to Amalfi, FINALLY
 
We have been trying to get to the Amalfi Coast for what seems like forever. Next year is a big birthday, so it's time to check this one off the bucket list at last!

Us---mid 40s and Fifty, still in good shape----climbing is no problem
What I need advice on....

What month? It absolutely won't be August. I am thinking September? Is early October too late? May?

I want to stay somewhere with a sweeping view and a little terrace, maybe. I don't think we will spend time at the hotel pool (but maybe if it's fabulous, we might have to). Open to an apartment or hotel.

Not looking to swim in the ocean, but would like to see the Blue Grotto. Our trip won't hinge on it, if it isn't possible, we'll survive.

Do we stay in one location and which city do you recommend? Or, do we mix it up between two locations?

We want to see beautiful things, relax, drink prosecco, maybe shop a little....we may add Rome for a few days to the end of the trip. Just to revisit some our favorites...maybe.

What did you do or see in the area that we can't miss? I know it's early but the great accomodations get snapped up early...we want this to be a fantastic, unforgetable trip.

Cjar Feb 23rd, 2014 05:50 PM

Try looking at some of kybourbon's , annhig, or bob the navigator posts if you don't get instant feedback. They seem to be a fount of information on all things Italian. Have fun.

kja Feb 23rd, 2014 07:20 PM

I was glad I went late May - just short of the crowds of high season, comfortable weather, lots of flowers.

If you want to see the Blue Grotto, then you would do well to consider at least 2 locations, Capri (or Anacapri) and somewhere on the Amalfi Coast. There are at least two reasons to consider staying on Capri: (a) it is much more magical after daytrippers leave and (b) one cannot be certain of getting to see the Blue Grotto on any given day, so if your first day doesn't work, an overnight stay gives you a second chance.

I loved my stay in Ravello. Many Fodorites find it too remote.

FWIW, I found the Rough Guide to the area the most useful of the half dozen guide books I used when planning my trip to the area.

Happy Birthday and happy travels!

Paqngo Feb 23rd, 2014 07:21 PM

We rented a house in Positano that had a great view and a wonderful terrace. One place I would love to back to is Ravello. Ferry service was great from Positano to Capri and Amalfi. We went in mid September and the weather was great. Oh, and the gelato by the boat pier was fabulous. Have fun!

Judy Feb 24th, 2014 01:52 AM

We are going in May and are basically following flygirl's trip advice.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-may-2013.cfm#
She mentioned that her guide thought September and October were her favorite times of the year there.

jelopez33 Feb 24th, 2014 02:34 AM

Hi Denise:

You will enjoy the Amalfi Coast inmensely, no doubts.
We were there in september and the weather was almost perfect, warm, but no really hot.
Our base was Amalfi, and we found it perfect, but many others will tell you the perfect place to stay is Sorrento or Positano, but of course, Sorrento is not on the A.C.
You cannot miss Ravello, Amalfi, Positano, the route along the sea from Positano to Amalfi, Pompeii, Capri Island, and in Anacapri, the most beautiful Church, with a ceramic floor.

This is the report from our trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...1-to-oct-3.cfm

We were perfectly happy at our hotel in Amalfi, but this is not the hotel you are searching, try with booking . Cm or tripadvisor, there are many great hotels .

Some highlights: coffe at Andrea Pansa, gelato at Savoia, also baba and millefoglie...antipasto at ever restaurant...
Enjoy your stay! Sorry Chaz......no starbucks on the Amalfi Coast....

Weekender Feb 24th, 2014 07:23 AM

Denisea:

Turning 50 calls for a big splash out and this is the place!

http://www.sirenuse.it/

We stayed next door at the Marincanto which was great (and cheaper as well) but had cocktails every night on the terrace at Le Sirenuse. Truly fab! Spectacular dining room lit by hundreds of candles.

ekc Feb 24th, 2014 08:13 AM

I have been to Positano in both June and September and found both to be lovely.

We rented an apartment at www.villalesirene.com and thoroughly enjoyed it. Having wine on the terrace in the evening watching the sea and the town was magical.

annhig Feb 24th, 2014 08:31 AM

Hi denise,

until last week I hadn't been to Sorrento or the Amalfi coast for about 40 years and last week was spent staying only in Sorrento so I really can't claim that much expertise. However, for what it's worth, as ever the best place to stay depends on what YOU want and like.

Sorrento - seems to be a pretty good base for exploring the area, with lots of possible day trips. Public transport is particularly good with trains, boats and buses to virtually anywhere you'd want to go. for example it's about 40 mins to Pompeii and just over an hour to Naples on the train, and 30-40 mins to Capri or Amalfi on the boat. buses take longer but they get to more remote places. and in the evening there are a number of restaurants to eat in, shops to wander around, a cathedral, gardens and museums to look at. The flip side is that because of all these advantages, and it's lovely location right on the gulf of Naples, it's very popular and busy in the summer months. As late in September as you can manage might be a good idea.

Amalfi - though its environs are large, it's centre is pretty small, with not a lot to see [though the cathedral was very nice, and the cloisters should be lovely by all accounts though they were shut when we were there] and most accommodation is going to require a lot of walking up and down to the harbour or restaurants. [or more likely, down and up!] In season it must be overwhelmed with people during the day, so I can see an argument for staying one, possibly two nights there but no longer.

Ravello - never been but I'd want to look at access to other places if I were going to stay for longer than a night or two.

Naples - I've never stayed overnight, but our excursion last week demonstrated that there's loads to see - far more than you can do in a day. so a 2-3 night stay might be a good idea if you are keen on museums and art, but I'd want to stay in a "good" area as some of it looks VERY dodgy.

DRJ Feb 24th, 2014 08:49 AM

I have stayed a week twice at Onda Verde. Its in Praiano, halfway between Amalfi and Positano and right in the coast road. Small,with perfect views and a good restaurant.

denisea Feb 24th, 2014 01:46 PM

You guys are good...exactly the type of info I am looking for.

Weekender - Le Sirenuese is a long time fantasy hotel for me....you are right on track and it sounds so nice! Dining by candlelight makes 50 look much more fabulous! Who doesn't look better by candlelight. ;-)

Annhig- Naples is one of those places where you hear some good AND some bad. We would likely fly into Naples and out of Rome if we decide to go to Rome. Really appreciate your thoughts on a base.

thanks all-great info (keep it coming) and this gives me a place to start with all this. I am counting on you all to help me make this THE trip of trips!

Judy Feb 24th, 2014 01:57 PM

We are staying across the street from Le Sirenuese and I've been e-mailing them re a restaurant reservation. I have been really impressed with the prompt and helpful responses.

The dining room looks stunning!!

denisea Feb 24th, 2014 04:12 PM

Will be looking for a T/R Judy!!! Do you mind saying where you will be staying?

Judy Feb 24th, 2014 05:01 PM

Sure, Denise. We are staying at http://alcioneresidence.com/index_eng.html. Flygirl has several balcony view photos in her trip report. She did say to get one of the suites which have better views than the rooms......will let you know how we like it.

denisea Feb 24th, 2014 05:57 PM

Thanks, Judy. Exploring all the options!

jelopez---Chaz did survive in Rome without Starbucks and was very spoiled by the coffee and espresso at our hotel. We won't tell him about Starbucks until we are there and he is in love with the views!!

tuscanlifeedit Feb 24th, 2014 07:56 PM

Hi Denise

Myself, family and friends have all stayed at the Hotel Poseidon in Positano and we are all big fans. It's a good 4* with great service and incredible food. Sweeping views and small balconies big enough for a table and two chairs, and a wonderful pool if you are so inclined.

There was music most nights on the pool terrace outside the restaurant, and one night a tenor, which was fabulous.

We were there in October and swam in the pool everyday.

denisea Feb 25th, 2014 02:25 PM

What? Are you kidding...sounds like something out of a movie! Can't wait to check it out! Thanks, tuscan. 50 won't get here fast enough, now.

kybourbon Feb 25th, 2014 03:26 PM

How many days do you have for your trip?

I've been to the area late March, early April, late June, late August, mid-Sept. and late Sept. By late March, many things were already in bloom (lemons on the trees), but much too cool to swim although I didn't need a jacket during the day. Ditto early April. Late June was very hot as was August. August and September were both very hazy which made the views less attractive. September can get a bit cool also at times. Some ferries used to cut back service mid-Sept.

tuscanlifeedit Feb 25th, 2014 03:42 PM

denisea: I swear it was something out of a movie. The twinkling lights from our balcony, all across the hills and down the coast, were just too gorgeous. The tenor was just too much, and he was handsome, too. A very gorgeous Italian guy, with an expensive sweater tied around his shoulders, singing for the guests for an hour. There was a sort of social director/event person at the hotel who arranged this for the guests.

I had every kind of food served to me poolside, which was fun, but the breakfast overlooking coast, and the dinner on a gorgeous candlelit terrace, were very special. Four of us had dinner a second night.

No place is perfect, and I have read a poor review of their spa (although it wasn't new), but as far as my limited luxury experiences go, this was stellar.

ctoner Feb 25th, 2014 06:21 PM

Loved the Amalfi Coast!!! We were there for a week and decided on Praiano as a home base. We stayed in a beautiful place called Villa Adalgisa that was literally perched on a cliff over the fishing village. There were 6 of us, so 3 bdrms was perfect! Took a boat tour to Capri, which was fun, even though it did sprinkle on the way there. It was a magical week and the sweeping views of the Mediterranean...just amazing! Enjoy your trip!

plufmud Feb 25th, 2014 06:59 PM

Hi Denisea,

We have have been to Amalfi in mid- June and early Sept. and prefer early Sept. Stayed in Sorrento for 3 nights, Capri 2 nights and Amalfi 4 nights the first visit~4 years ago. We thought Sorrento and Amalfi were too touristy with shops being filled with the same trinkets and a bit tacky. Stayed 2 nights on Capri, loved it after daytrippers left and planned to stay in Ravello on our return in the future. While daytrippers walk the main shopping streets you can visit San Michele, hike, private boat trip around the island, chairlift to Anacapri, and enjoy the views. We visited the Blue Grotto which was so-so. At night Capri really is magical as kja posted!!!! Loved walking the streets early morning as well.

Fast forward 2 years later to celebrate 40th anniversary(2013). Stayed at La Minerva for 3 nights and Ravello for 3 nights at Palazzo Avino which is beyond words. We had a car on both trips and LOVED driving on the Amafli coast although most would not recommend it. We took day trips from Ravello and then would dine in Ravello in the evening. We took a cooking class in Ravello, wine tasting, hiked, and ferry to Positano for the day. You definitely have chosen a romantic place!!!!

Don't you love the planning!

denisea Feb 26th, 2014 07:07 PM

Well - at least a week, maybe 10 days-kybourbon

I am so excited to see these amazing villas and hotels you all are sharing. you all have had some wonderful travel stories to share.

And, yes the planning is very fun for me. I am having a tough time this year for a number of reasons, so planning this trip is gonna be my life raft for a while.

annhig Feb 27th, 2014 02:32 AM

By late March, many things were already in bloom (lemons on the trees), but much too cool to swim although I didn't need a jacket during the day>>

ky, I can tell you that in mid-Feb the citrus trees are laden with fruit - it's just falling off them. We had terrific weather for the first half of our week in Sorrento, but the locals said that the weeks before had been really awful, and towards the end of the week the weather deteriorated again. So it can very hit of miss that time of year.

WWK Feb 27th, 2014 03:40 AM

Another vote for HOTEL POSEIDON, which I've been going to for years. Check out their suites, or for an extremely large terrace with sweeping views on the top floor of the hotel, THE FUNNY ROOM.

The hotel is located only a few (uphill) blocks away from LE SIRENUSE. It's a very good four star, with excellent service, lovely staff, and oh those views (!) over town and beach from many of the rooms.

We particularly like it's location, which is still within easy walking distance ( if you're in decent shape) of town and beach, but far enough away that you can escape the crowds when you want to.

If you really want to be right in town, check out BUCA DI BACCO, which is on the beach. It's got an amazing restaurant, and lovely rooms overlooking the water. But as soon you leave the hotel, you're right in the thick of the crowds. Which is why we always go to The Poseidon.

About which month to go: I love end of May/early June on the Amalfi Coast. Less crowds, still warm enough to swim and enjoy everything. I would skip July/August, unless that's the only time you can go. It's a real zoo in many of the coast towns.

Make sure you visit FORNILLO BEACH when you're there. It's along a seaside and flower filled path that starts near the town dock, and is much less congested (usually, except for July and August) then the wall to wall chairs and people beach in town.

I would also recommend that you at least overnight in Capri. It's magical once the day trippers have left. And you did say you'd like to visit the Blue Grotto.

Post back for restaurant recommendations later on...

WWK Feb 27th, 2014 03:44 AM

Wanted to add that for Rome, my favorite hotel is ALBERGO DEL SENATO. Since it's your 50th, look at THE SEMINARIO SUITE (!!), which is one of the most beautiful hotel rooms we've ever stayed in. No view, but a one-of-a-kind room that you won't soon forget.

denisea Feb 27th, 2014 11:15 AM

Thank you thank you all....WWK you know me well. We definitely want to stay at ADS in Rome, so many have loved it. I have heard it's rooftop terrace is wonderful-drinks in the shadow of the Pantheon.

Judy Feb 27th, 2014 12:59 PM

Albergo del Senato is our favorite Rome hotel. We'll be there in May. The rooftop bar is awesome!

You will have a fantastic trip.

ekc Feb 27th, 2014 01:45 PM

Another vote for Hotel Poseidon. The location is fantastic, because you are just high enough to be out of the crowds and have a fantastic view, but not so high up that you have a zillion stairs to climb to get to your hotel (or have to wait for the bus). I rented an apartment just below the hotel and can attest that the views are fantastic. The "Latteria" store across from the hotel is a great place to stock up on supplies and they sell great souvenier kitchen towels, which make great gifts and don't take up much room.

WWK Feb 27th, 2014 05:12 PM

denisea,

All I can tell you is that I've stayed at ALBERGO DEL SENATO six times, and never get tired of it. I can easily imagine Audrey Hepburn having Bellinis on the rooftop terrace. It's that dreamy!

Just a note of warning: Some of the lowest category rooms are pretty small, which is typical for Rome hotels, but still... Since it's your 50th, you might want to splurge for The Seminario Suite as discussed above, or one of the mini-apartments on the top floor.

jglags Feb 27th, 2014 05:31 PM

I highly recommend staying at least two nights on Capri!! Check out hotel La Minerva. We have stayed there twice, once in June and once in July. During the days we found remote hikes up toward Anacapri, hiked from Anacapri down to Capri Town, hired a boat to circle the entire island stopping at different grottoes for swimming. The evenings and nights on Capri are amazing.
If you like hiking/walking, try the Walk of the Gods, high up above the coastal towns along the Amalfi Coast. The views are to die for!

flygirl Feb 27th, 2014 06:14 PM

I thought I heard my name!

I thought mid-May was perfect weather. Warm and not humid.

Loved La Minerva, Alcione. Also ADS in Rome.

fb Feb 28th, 2014 08:22 AM

We spent a week in May in Positano at http://www.villalesirene.com/en/index.htm. Perfect weather, great location, unbelievable view, friendly and helpful owners (they include food, wine, and coffee to get you started, delivered a home baked cake mid-week, and let us use a cell phone for local calls while there). We booked on VRBO and it seemed way cheaper than the hotels, yet included a separate bedroom and a kitchen.

WWK Feb 28th, 2014 12:37 PM

I toured Villa Sirene for an online travel magazine in July. It's gorgeous beyond belief , but the OP should know that there are several narrow stairs cases going down from the main street ( Via Pasitea) to access it.

ekc Feb 28th, 2014 02:26 PM

I also stayed at Villa Le Sirene for a week a couple of years ago and it is a very special place. But it requires a week rental for any of the apartments if I remember correctly.

There are 71 steps to get up to Via Pasitea (yes, I counted and cursed them when I first arrived). You can also go down the big staircase down to the beach (over 200 steps but gradual going down). It is easier to walk up the pedestrian area and Via Pasitea when returning to the beach.

WWK Feb 28th, 2014 06:09 PM

denisea,

Just wanted to mention that sometimes you need to e-mail Albergo Del Senato directly if you are interested in reserving one of their suites or mini-apartments. For some reason these rooms often don't show up online.

denisea Mar 1st, 2014 03:46 PM

I never thought I would be so amped to get to 50 but you all are making it hard to wait for this trip. Your enthusiasm for the area is infectious and we are excited to check out all the suggestions for where to stay...they all sound terrific and I can't wait for the views! Prosecco and a view is sounding really good!

latedaytraveler Mar 2nd, 2014 06:40 PM

Hi Denisea,

I have loved your past TRs about Paris and really look forward to your planning and eventual account of your adventures on the Almalfi Coast.

denisea Mar 3rd, 2014 05:31 PM

Thank you lateday...I appreciate that. I actually like writing them.

One last question....any thoughts on Santa Caterina hotel in Amalfi? I have friends whi stayed there several yrs ago and loved it....but I have no recent info on it.

tomarkot Mar 11th, 2014 04:49 PM

Hi Denisea, Glad to touch base with you here. So glad that you're planning your trip to the Amalfi Coast. You've already received so many good leads. I'll just add that we thought the trip to the Blue Grotto was well worth it, as we made it on a perfectly gorgeous day. Weather would definitely affect it. Whatever you decide, we know that you'll enjoy your time on that beautiful Amalfi Coast.

We're in the planning stages of a September trip to Switzerland and a bit of Austria. We've been to the larger cities; this trip is mostly for enjoyment of the Alps. But we can't be that close to Paris without a few days in our fav city on our return itinerary to the US. We enjoyed your T/R from your Christmas visit!

denisea Mar 12th, 2014 08:32 PM

Thanks...always good to hear from you. We have a few short days in Lisbon in a few weeks. I am always missing Paris! Enjoy the Alps!,


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