5 Days In Paris
 

WARNING: If you are one of those Paris lovers and fanatics who thinks that it is the greatest place on earth and everything is perfect there, I advise to stop reading right here. I wouldn’t want you to go into a seizure.

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This is a brief trip report of out 5 days in Paris. There is so much written and spoken about Paris that I will only talk about the things that surprised us. This is the most valuable and informative part of any trip report – the reality that you don’t get in the guidebooks or from the pollyannas who write those trip reports where everything is perfect, nothing ever goes wrong and there are no disappointments. I don’t know about anyone else, but I’ve never been on such a trip.

I also think it important to state up front where your goals and biases lie. Too many reports fail to say whther they are backpackers or luxury travelers, 20 something or adult travelers, art lovers, seriouss foodies, etc. It makes all the difference on how a reader should interpret the opinions expressed in the report.

We are more, ahem, mature travelers who are semi-serious foodies. We prefer seeing lots of new turf and the stuff that you have read about all your life. We not the types who sit around in parks or in cafes and meditate on a trip. We know that it is the one trip we are ever going to make to the place, so we want to see as much as we can. I am very interested in history but not much paintings. I never go to art museums at home, so why should I do it on a trip? My wife is more of an art person and less of a history person, however, so we always include a bit of each. Eating and drinking well is also big part of a trip.

I should also say up front that the poor weather likely affected my impressions. While we liked it, it was not the magical, romantic place that many people describe. The Paris we experienced is not the Paris of guidebooks or this forum where you take long walks, picnic by the Seine in the sunshine, and sit in cafes drinking espresso. It was too cold, windy, cloudy and often rainy for that. I’ve never had to wear a parka, hat and scarf on a European trip before.

Positive Surprises

Although you can read about the Versaille, nothing can prepare you for the immensity and the richness. It makes all other royal palaces seem like shacks. The same can be said about the Louvre – there is the Louvre and then there are all other art museums. Each is at least a full day visit, the Louvre could take you as long as you want it to.(Perhaps I have special fondness for the Louvre because we got right in. We couldn’t find the entrance through the shopping center, but did find another double super secret entrance that I had read about. While the line through the Pyramid entrance stretched most of the way across the courtyard, the place we entered had a line up of exactly 8 people in front of us. Of course once in, the crowd made it almost unbearable.)

My favorite museum was the Cluny. Medieval art and in a Roman bath. It doesn’t get much better. You can have the Mona Lisa, Venus Milo and the Van Gogh self portrait; give me the Lady and the Unicorn. I found myself humming “The Hunting Song” as a strolled around.

My wife’s favorite museum was Musée Cognacq-Jay. These smaller museums have a charm and intimacy that the big boys lack. They are also not mobbed by hordes of tour groups, so can visit them will relative peace and tranquility.

The Parthenon was big surprise, only because it does not get top mention in most guidebooks. It should. It is huge and far surpasses the original in Rome. I’d rate it as one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen.

The Paris Metro is both a positive and a negative. It gets you around, is easy to navigate and is well marked. From this viewpoint, it is far superior to the London Tube. However, it is not as easy and fast as the Metro maps suggest. What looks like one station can actually be several distinct stations that are widely separated and connected by passageways. There can be a 10-15 minute walk to get from one platform to another. You walk up stairs, around a corner, down stairs, along a walkway, up stairs, etc. It uses up a lot of time, walking and energy.

Paris had both more style and less style than we expected. The stores and little architectural details have a flare that you don’t see at home. Things seem designed, not just for function, but for aesthetics as well. It's nice to see the special care taken with the olittle things. On the other hand, the locals didn’t seem to dress especially stylishly. I expected to see a lot of high fashion and haut couture. The average Parisienne looked much like the average American, just not fat. (Virtually, everytime we heard a fat person speak in Paris, it was an American with a Midwest accent.)

Monoprix. Great place to get whatever you want, from pastries, cheese and wine to toothpaste and a scarf. It's aslso a good place ton meet some locals.

Diwali. It's a small chain of botiques with about 5-6 stores in Paris. My wife loved it for a place to shop for very nice, unique and reasonably-priced jewelry. By contrast, we found nothing reasonable in any of the big department stores.

Museum pass. It’s been frequently said, but it can't be said enough - a museum pass is a must in Paris.

Negative Surprises

It is quite possible to eat so-so or even poorly in Paris. Out of 5 dinners, two were good, 2 were mediocre and one was outright horrible. That was at Relais Gascon, which I had read to be a good place for cassoulet. OK, cassoulet is not a Parisian dish, but all the food was dreadful. We struck up a conversation with people at the next table. That had ordered different dishes but were equally dismayed by the food. We also tried Allard when the hotel conciege refused to keep trying to make a reservation at the place we wanted to go. Allard, perhaps the oldest bistro in Paris, serves so-so French comfort food which was OK. The price of $150 was not. Even by Parisian standards, it was ridiculously overpriced. Anyway, we fared better than the people at the next table who took two bites and walked out in disgust. Of course, they had ordered the weirdest dish I’ve ever seen: a big bowl of undercooked duck covered by a thick layer of 100’s of olives. Overall, we were really disappointed by the food. Five meals is a small sample, so it could just be bad luck. In contrast, however, we have never had anything except excellent food in London and Rome.

We were underwhelmed by the Marais. Rue des Rosiers was nothing more than a few uninteresting blocks of falafel places. Lunch at L’As was good, but hardly exceptional falafel. I had read this opinion in some quarters, but was persuaded by the hype. Place Vosges was nothing special – just a square surrounded by a few nice old buildings. All in all, the Marais was a bust except for Musée Cognacq-Jay.

In fact, we found that there was relatively little neighborhood ambience anywhere in Paris. I attribute this to the architecture. Paris doesn’t look or feel like an old city with a lot distinct areas. All of central Paris looks essentially the same – tall, off-white buildings 5 or 6 stories lining the roadway. Sure, there is some variation, but it is small relative to the overall uniformity. Parts of the Latin quarter are the exception.

Montmartre. Again we expected much more. Apart from Sacre Coeur, it was a largely a tourist trap. The view is nice, but Paris, despite what I had read, is not particularly scenic, at least not when seen from afar from Montmartre. Individual buildings are hard to discern at that distance. It is a flat sea of those tall white buildings, broken only by the Eiffel Tower. Anyway, perhaps if it hadn’t been so cold and late, we might have walked around more and be less negative about Montmartre.

Conclusion

It was a nice but not great trip. We enjoyed London, Rome and Venice much more, despite seeing some spectacular things in Paris. The mobs, disappointment in the food and especially the poor weather probably had a big effect. It is hard to feel romantic about a city when your main goal much of the time is to get out of the wind. Or maybe it was exaggerated expectation from all the hype generated on discussion groups like this one. .

Thanks for the info.

Not to defend Paris, but some of your negatives are hardly surprises. I did find it ironic that you favor London over Paris, because I believe most of your criticisms of Paris probably apply two-fold to London (bland architecture, crowds, hit and miss food). Oh, well, to each his/her own.

Obviously, the weather can make a difference. On our recent trip, Paris was cloudy and chilly part of the time. Perhaps it is the proximity to the river, but it felt much colder than the actual temperature, and Paris does lose some attraction when the sun isn't shining. Indeed, I was a little let down (compared to previous visits), but then the sun came out!

Prejudice meets reality...

Obviously, you travelled with a certain image of Paris and you have been disappointed because this wonderful city did not match this image. Now, you are bashing the poor city and the guidebooks.

>>>Paris doesn’t look or feel like an old city with a lot distinct areas. All of central Paris looks essentially the same – tall, off-white buildings 5 or 6 stories lining the roadway. Sure, there is some variation, but it is small relative to the overall uniformity.<<<

If you had read a proper guidebook, you would have stumbled upon the name Georges-Eugène Baron Haussmann. He was the one who tore down the medieval city and created this in fact uniform-looking Paris that is called "City of Light" by many visitors. I am sorry that you expected a medieval town and did not find it. Piss on Haussmann's grave (it is on Père Lachaise).

Hi IM,

>It was too cold, windy, cloudy and often rainy for that. I’ve never had to wear a parka, hat and scarf on a European trip before. <

Just one more example of how the French hate Americans.

>The Parthenon was big surprise.....<

I'm sure it would be. :) (You did mean the Pantheon, no?)

>What looks like one station can actually be several distinct stations that are widely separated and connected by passageways.<

You would have known that had you been paying attention to the Fodors posts.

>the locals didn’t seem to dress especially stylishly. <
Just one more example of how the French hate Americans. On days when you are not there, they all were clothes by Armani, Gucci, etc. - even at the beach.

>It is quite possible to eat so-so or even poorly in Paris.
You would have known that had you been paying attention to the Fodors posts.

Dear colleague,

Sorry to hear that you were so disappointed.

>It is hard to feel romantic about a city when your main goal much of the time is to get out of the wind. Or maybe it was exaggerated expectation.......<

I suggest that it was both.

((I))

I'm glad to see something of a positive post from you, hornet. At least there were some good points during your Paris visit.

I find that Paris has some wonderful small museums that don't get a lot of attention from tourists nor from guide books and that's too bad.

Ira took care of the Parthenon/Pantheon bit. Did you enjoy Foucault's pendulum? I spent a lot of time watching it and trying to understand it.

And Echnaton took care of the Haussmann bit. Those buildings give Paris a delightful symmetry.

Yes the metro gives you a good work out! Most of the time I just walk from place to place as it takes almost the same amount of time as the metro. There have to be so many connections to make it a good transportation mode. You obviously connected in one of the larger stations. You could walk for miles in some of the connections.

Don't agree about the museum pass but some folks think it's worth the money.

Montmartre - you have to get away from Place du Tertre - that's where the tourist bucks are sucked in! There's lots more do see in Montmartre.

YOu should have marked this a trip report, not sure if you can change it.

I'm not a typical tourist in Paris as I've been there many times for extended stays and never stay in the most popular tourist areas now -- I like good food, but am not remotely a "foodie". So my comments on your report are that I agree with some things (I am one who doesn't understand why so many tourists on Fodors adore the Marais, although I think place des Vosges is special), but I guess if you are serious foodies, you could have picked better restaurants.

I don't agree with some of your comments about all of Paris looking alike and no neighborhoods that are different, but I think that's because you really didn't see that much of Paris, and that is normal for a first-time tourist. Of course a place is touristy right around the main tourist attractions (like Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur), I think it is unrealistic to expect otherwise, and that is true in any major city in Europe. Montmartre is different if you get away from that a few blocks but again, most tourist don't bother to do that. Fine, you have limited time, but don't expect a pristine authentic place at a major tourist attaction.

I don't know what you mean by the Parthenon, which is in Greece (not Paris or Italy). Do you mean the Pantheon? Or do you mean some Greek-looking building, like the Madeleine which is a church. But that wouldn't be bigger than a Greek building in Rome. Since you recommend it, it would be nice if one knew what you were talking about. Now they do have parts of the Parthenon in the Louvre, so maybe you mean that.

well, I appreciate your report, don't get me wrong, I don't want to say everything about Paris is perfect, and I find your observations interesting, but there might be some lessons here. Your big complaints about the weather are due to when you went, which I preseume was early spring. You shouldn't have expected it to be consistenly warm and sunny during that time. Maybe you haven't traveled that much, but your expectations were unrealisitic for major tourist sites, I think. And while I think you should have done more restaurant research since you call yourself serious foodies, I can't imagine how you spent $150 for dinner at Allard where the prix fixe is around 35 euro. Now I imagine you meant for two people (should say when stating costs), and maybe the 35 euro doesn't include some expensive wine you bought, then I could see it as I think your price was around 100 euro when you went ($150).

I always find it odd that people think it would be impossible to eat poorly in any city. You seemed surprised that every meal wouldn't be fantastic in Paris. Well, why would it be, there are bad restaurants in any city, and certainly many mediocre ones.

I would find your comments more expected from unexperienced travelers, but I am a little surprised since you describe yourself as experienced European travelers that you had some of these expectations or didn't realize some restaurants can be bad and it will be touristy around major tourist sites and that weather in early Spring won't be ideal.

Final note. My wife made an interesting observation yesterday that touched on something that was tickling the back of my mind and accounts for some of our vague disatisfaction with the trip. She said that she likes Rome much better because it is far less serious. The French are very serious about their wine, their food, etc. Italy is a bit disorganized and looser. People don't seem to take things so seriously and are more fun and relaxed. I think she's on to something here.

In response:

"but I am a little surprised since you describe yourself as experienced European travelers that you had some of these expectations or didn't realize some restaurants can be bad and it will be touristy around major tourist sites and that weather in early Spring won't be ideal."

Considering that we had eaten so well in the past in Europe, it was very surprising to find such poor food, especially considering if you read about the perfection of everything Paris in these forums.

"but I guess if you are serious foodies, you could have picked better restaurants. "

What an incredibly stupid comment.

I haven't been to Paris in over 20 years, but I do remember that my favorite activity, if you can call it that, was sitting in cafes in residential neighborhoods , so I can see that if that is not your cup of tea Paris could be disappointing. I remember many small museums too, and taking boat rides on the Seine, which provides a different aspect of the buildings.
Any I remember the cheese, especially a many course tasting at Androuette (sp?)

A couple of notes:

If you had read the guidebooks and weather sites carefully you would have learned that May in europe north of the alps is often rainy and can be quite chilly (Don;t know about parkas - but don;t know where you are from. We had a niece visit from FL and she kept wanting to turn on the heat if it went below 72 degrees.)

French food is often over-rated IMHO. We have had quite a few mediocre meals in Paris - even 1 or 2 in upscale places. (We have found that in Paris trendy sometimes overpower actual quality of food.) I think Italy overall has better food on a casuale level - and IMHO Belgium has the best food in europe bar none. If you are truly foodies I would have expected you to get a lot of recos before going to Paris. Food in many of the casuale cafes is not much better than diner food in the US (good diner food).

Also - agree that any guidebook would discuss what Haussmann did to central Paris in the 19th century - meaning that truly historic places are limited to areas that managed to avoid his "improvements.

As far as style is concerned I would suggest that the average Parisienne dresses much more modishly than the average american you will see at the local mall. However, they are not all wealthy or high fashion models - and you not going to see nothing but designer originals.

So sorry Paris didn't cast its magic spell on you. I was there for my 5th visit this past March and found it as enchanting as ever. Usually go mid-March and the weather is sometimes lovely, sometimes terrible. This time it was mostly lovely, very springlike during the day. Other times it has snowed but I still loved it. Agree that the smaller museums are often more fun. Can't say I've had any bad meals in Paris, some are naturally better than others but I've never walked away from a meal disappointed.

Hope you give Paris another chance, maybe in better weather?

If I wanted to comment on Imhornet's account properly, I would actually had to have read it. I could have guessed what was in it, but I accidently saw the word positive.

Commenting on another's preconceived notions is like a discussion with a teenager who has seen nothing but knows the world or a bigot who would rather be enraged than be educated.

In any event, I am sure he had his own wonderful time and wonder why he leaves his mind at any time.

Really interesting read. This will only be our second trip to Paris this August, but I'm hoping to enjoy it even more this time. It was January last time and bitterly cold, who cares, its Paris, put a jacket and scarf on and harden up.

As for food, I sometimes describe us as foodies on this site (our last trip was to Hong Kong for a week, just to eat!!!!) and the couple of 'bad' meals we had in Paris, we completely blame ourselves for. I'd researched a lot but when it came to it, we found ourselves in very tourist driven Bistros, which were poor at best.

This time I'll be much more careful plus we plan to eat in a lot with food we've sourced from local markets.

While I had a chuckle at your 'report' it just confirms what we've always found to be true, American travelers (some not all) expect it all there own way. But at least they are easy to spot, you do usually hear them before you see them.

I LOVE PARIS.

I wish you had told us where you had these poor meals.

Enjoying reading some of the replies. Going to be a lot of chuckles with this thread!!

Joan

I think all this proves is that everyone's tastes are different. Knowing that many of the readers of these posts are lovers of Paris ( I, myself, am that category), I might have phrased those comments a little differently, but - believe it or not - Paris is not everyone's cup of tea; even some non-American travellers don't like Paris. Even when my wife and I travel, we have significant differences of opinion when it comes to food. There are dishes that I have loved that my wife didn't think were fit to feed to the hogs! Vive la difference!

Having read some of Imhornet's other posts, I had a vision. After a week in heaven, he is asked how he likes the food, the architecture, the people and the culture. He answers,"I expected it to be much more unique - it's just like Paris!

I'm intrigued by the underlying notion that somehow the point of the forum is to decide whether a particular destination is "worth it" or "not". For me, travel is about experiencing a bit of the world, not giving a particular destination a grade.

I appreciate you taking the time to write a trip report, although when you start a missive with a disclosure, I wonder if the purpose of the report is to inform us or to try to impress us with what you apparently feel is a higher level of taste and expertise than the ordinary folk. Between your post and others replies I have learned things about Paris that will be helpful to me if and when I travel there. I sincerely hope your future travel will be a much better experience than this. As I travel in the future no matter where I go, I’ll always have one thing that will bring a smile to my face, I don’t have to travel with the negative likes of you.

Thanks for the report. I do hope you give Paris a second chance as I didn't enjoy the city until my second time visiting. I'd agree with you that the restaurants aren't all fabulous, that's why I loved staying in an apartment. The food at the outdoor markets was cheaper and tastier than most restaurants we tried and was fresher than most items in the US.

Secondly, the Louvre is best seen when it opens or when it opens late and map out what objects you want to see, otherwise I agree, the mobs are horrendous.

I'm shocked that you thought the Parisian Metro was better than London, since the Tube seems more well-light and the train cars are a bit cleaner.

Finally, if you come back, take a guided tour of the neighborhoods. We took a Paris Walks tour of Montmartre and after climbing the hill away from the main street, we found a wonderful, village-like atmosphere, like the Paris of old.

Sorry you had such a bad time but it's nice to have a different perspective.

"I should also say up front that the poor weather likely affected my impressions. While we liked it, it was not the magical, romantic place that many people describe."

I think that is very likely. Five days is not much time in Paris and your expectations were high. I was not that impressed my first five days either, but since have grown to love Paris. Now the weather has little effect on my visits, I especially like November when it's chilly and less crowded.

After several trips I now limit my museum visits and often wander aimlessly (almost) down side streets in the left bank, stroll through the Luxumbourg Gardens and sit and watch children play, chat with waiters when they have the time, sit on a bench along the Seine eating gelato from Amorino, always visit Notre Dame and the Deportation Memorial at least once and go into smaller churches and sit and relax.

There's nothing wrong with sitting "meditating" in a cafe. It's a good break and a way to reflect on what you've seen and done. One year I had an agenda and was dashing around from one sight to another and passed a cafe. People were sitting looking so relaxed with their wine or coffee and thought I want to do that too, so I slowed down.

One November evening a friend and I were drinking wine in a cafe near the St Michel metro stop. There were only a few other people in the cafe and we were all people watching when a gust of wind blew leaves up the street. A man near us began singing "The autumn leaves drift by the window ..."

I found the "magic" happened when I slowed down and looked and listened.

Emily71

I live in NYC and I am active on that board. I used to argue with visitors about not going to specific reataurants or sights. Now, I mention it once and drop the subject.

If someone wants to go ro not go somewhere, let them. If they want to go a terrible reataurant let them, it opens a free table at a better spot. And if someone does not like Paris, do not encourage them to return, that too means there is one less person on line.

Well said, Ira and bumper.

<<What an incredibly stupid comment.>>

The Parthenon comment was way stupider than that.

This is our 6th visit to Paris,we just arrived today.Last May it was rainy and chilly,but it was Paris in the rain,Hopefully the sun gods will be out with us this week.We are ready to try new cafes and bistrots,and whatever else rolls our way.
Elaine

I can understand the OP's disappointment with Paris if he did not expect rain and cold in May. We have always gone to Paris in the Fall, and have been delighted with the mild temperatures and almost unfailing sunshine.

Next year we plan to visit in May, so I looked up the climate, and found that May is the rainiest month, with 10.3 days of rain, and it averages 2.6 inches of rain in that month.

Bring an umbrella and a sweater, it will still be lovely.

I think your first paragraph was a cheap shot, and set the tone for the rest of your report.

I read most if not all reports on Paris, and have no qualms with people who go, experience it, and decide it is not for them. Part of any trip is to temper pre-conceptions (positve and negative), and be open to changing your mind.

And sure, no city can ever claim that every restaurant serves beautiful meals. I, who like a good meal, research before going, here..guides...food blogs,etc. And when I get there, I add to the list via hotel staff, observations of where locals seem to go, etc..So far, I've been able any 'walk out' meals. Lucky? Maybe.

I sense a bit of "checklist" tourism. Need to see this, and this, and that. Paris is not just stuff, it is also just enjoying life in a beautiful environment. There is no magic in going to Place des Vosges, taking a picture and saying "what's next?". But sitting at an outdoor cafe there, having a nice lunch and a glass of wine, enjoying the company I'm with, and marvelling at the centuries old architecture, wondering about the famous people that have passed under these arcades...beats having a coffee a McDonald's back home.

There is seeing Paris and there is experiencing Paris.

But as to positives, yes Versailles is an amazing place. People think OK, summer chateau of the kings of France with a garden out back...somewhat more than that!

CLuny is also one of my favorites. Like the exhibits, but the building itself adds another dimension.

Cognac-Jay is on my list. Last time I visited the Jac

One thing that I always like about Paris are the little stylish flairs....I bought some flowers for my sister when I was staying at her place. The shopkeeper aksed if they were a gift, annd when I decided to say yes, a whole production of wrapping and ribbons that moved in from a nice bunch of flowers to something artistic.

Very interesting take on things, Imhornet. Having read many of your posts in the past (and always smiling wryly at your screen name), I did approach this commentary with an understanding that criticism is sort of your schtick. I was surprised so see a moment or two of downright evenhandedness. Many of your comments were actually rather helpful.

BTW, has anyone else wondered whether Imhornet is perhaps a distant relation of Flanneruk? There is definitely an almost endearingly curmudgeon quality to both gentlemen, who find entertainment value in throwing out meat to watch the fur fly. Oddly, I'm growing rather fond of them as vivid characters in the Fodor's cast.

Joan you are right. Chuckle, chuckle.

I am planning our first trip to Paris in late April 2011 and I like this post.

I learned a long time ago that my experience in a new location will be much different than anyone else's. Not necessarily better or worse...just different. For example, I live in Kansas City and I love it even though for two years we haven't had more than 12 days in a row without rain and we just came off our worst winter in a long, long time. The winters here can be brutal. But we dress right, get out of the house and love what the city has to offer. The potential bad weather in late April in Paris...even if it rains...won't ruin the vacation for me. But that is just me.

So Mr. Hornet...thanks for your post. I will file it with all the others and consider it as I continue to read and learn.

DaveMM

DaveMM,

Your first trip to Paris in April 2011. You have lots of time to read and gather information. That is truly half the fun..the planning! Just don't try to over-do. Take time to stop and smell the flowers!

Yes, you will want to see some of the major sights on this first trip. This one should only whet the appetite for the next trip. That's the way it goes! No end to it. Just take the Louvre..You can be there for years and not do it all..and then all the special exhibitions.

I usually go a couple times a year for 4 weeks or more at a time and never accomplish what I think I might. I don't cram things into my days. Many are just wandering here and there in varous neighborhoods..never know what you might find, discover.

The bus is far superior to the metro, in so many ways. If you are there long enough, and/or plan to be returning, get a Navigo Decouverte card. Easy to get around. I know I can get to any place from where I stay, very easily. You will do a lot of walking.

Weather, who knows. Most of us..Paris too..had a horrible winter! A February I want to forget. I was in Paris last year from mid April to mid May. The weather was decent..no complaints. This year April may have been better than May. I have been there in May and found it to be cold. I do think that the fall weather may be more dependable than the Spring. Last November was unseasonably warm. I hope this November will be, too. Whatever it is..it is Paris, and I know that I will enjoy.

Happy planning to you!!

Joan

Thanks for your observations Imhornet. My first trip is coming up in exactly 7 days and I'm super excited.

I did have to chuckle though, I always find it funny that we vacationeers (myslef included) always seem to want a place that is fantastic, popular, with perfect weather and no tourist crowds. LOL. does such a place exsists?

Weather can make or break a trip and unfortunately it's totally out of our control. So I plan to keep an eye on weather.com, pack a few extras "just in case" and let the chips fall where they may.

"...we found that there was relatively little neighborhood ambience anywhere in Paris. I attribute this to the architecture. Paris doesn’t look or feel like an old city with a lot distinct areas."

Are you sure you went to Paris?

-Roberta

Thanks hornet, from another who appreciates hearing the good, the bad, and the ugly, and not just about the BEST icecream, BEST hot chocolate, BEST pizza etc etc.

Ira said:

<>>>>>Just one more example of how the French hate Americans. On days when you are not there, they all were clothes by Armani, Gucci, etc. - even at the beach.<<<<<

which really made me laugh, not just in my mind, but out loud at the screen for quite a bit.

I dont think I saw people in Paris dressed any better than those in America and perhaps a little less good - on the other hand people in Monaco - certainly DO dress and accessorize big time.

It's hard to believe anyone would not be in awe of the architecture in Paris - or maybe I'm just a building and beautiful frieze and architecture freak. How could one miss the wonder of the friezes on the bridges as you go up the Seine, and the golden statues and the gold tipped fences !And not be in wonder at 1000 year old churches?

Of the meals I've had in Paris, I think the one I enjoyed the most was breakfast on a corner of St. Michel across from one of the entrances to the Luxemburg Park...a lesisurely long enjoyable breakfast of eggs and sausage and wonderful bread and butter and about 4 cappucinos, while I read the paper and looked out the window and people watched. Like LuisaH I often enjoy the Luxemburg Park and never miss a chance to go there and enjoy the lake and people watching and the flowers and all the French Queens.

Maybe because the first time I went it was without expectation, but coming from Florida and being in France in
April-May it was cold. The concierge kept telling me it was 60 or more out, but it surely felt like 40 and I dont enjoy cold weather at all. True, in Florida when it goes down to 70 we put on sweaters. As a matter of fact, the way the OP felt about Paris is the way I felt about London, my least favorite city because in April and May I have never been so cold in my life, bone-chilling cold and rain that went right through my pleather rain coat to my bones!

Maybe I'm just more laid back than most, but when you go to a museum in a famous city, I think you have to expect other people wanting to go also - and be prepared for it to be crowded. Yes the first time I did as many musemums as I could comfortably fit in, and I will get around to others at some future date...but I dont try to pack in everything as if I will never pass that way again. And I also have had a couple of poor "diner-like" meals and so I stick to ones where I know I will eat something I like and enjoy the meal and the ambiance, but then again I'm not a foodie. But a poor meal is not a reason to write off a beautiful city, nor is cold weather...finding that April May is still cold in Europe, I now go in the early Fall which I find warmer...

I guess different people see - or dont see.

And
AUSSIEDREAMER, by the way, it's usually Germans and Australians who are speaking very loudly - dont lay that on all Americans sweety. :)

Thanks hornet, from another who appreciates hearing the good, the bad, and the ugly, and not just about the BEST icecream, BEST hot chocolate, BEST pizza etc etc.

I too appreciate an honest appraisal, but not necessaruly a pyschotic one.

I'm happy to read your report, Hornet. Most of us really do want to hear about the good, the bad, and the ugly. I have read many reports like that on this site, including this report.

I am paying attention to your comments about Allard, which I have not visited. I have read recommendations for the dish you describe seeing at the next table, the duck with olives, and since duck and olives are two of my favorite things, I would have wanted to try it.

I would be very interested to hear about the two meals you say were good and where you had them.

The metro does have some stations that are extremely large and confusing, especially ones where several lines intersect. I have learned to try to avoid those stops.

Thanks for taking the time to write the report. It is refreshing to read something sincere and interesting from a poster whose previous posts would not have led me to expect it.

Sorry folks for taking this thread a little off topic.

Joan,

Thank you for the insight.

We learned many years ago after our first visit to Kauai, Hawaii that we don't like to kill ourselves on vacation. Our first visit to Kauai was the let's do everything we possibly can vacation. On all our subsequent trips to paradise we have a very loose plan and we really enjoy whatever comes.

This is the approach we are taking with Paris. We will make the list of places/sites we want to visit but there will be plenty of time to soak it all in. I am really excited about using the Velib’ rental station right outside our apartment (assuming the weather cooperates). Getting around town on a bike is going to create some wonderful memories and images. The thought of leisurely riding to another area of town to simply walk around is very appealing. Some might say I am out of my mind...they may be right. Our approach to this vacation means we will not see everything. We are okay with that.

So that I get an idea for the distances between different locations I use the Google Pedometer site. http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/ It is a simple point and click program. I don't want to think I am off for a 3 mile ride and find out it is much, much longer.

Back to work…lunch is over.

Thanks.

DaveMM

DaveMM,

I do like your approach to travel. You will have fun with the Velib. They will be right outside my apartment both Nov. and next Spring, too.

Enjoy,

Joan

Well, I too get tired of white stucco after a while, but I do wonder at many of your other disappointments.

We are not checklist tourists. We never go to more than one site a day, and when we go in a group with friends, we often have multiple parties heading in a lot of different directions so that the hard-core museum goers who read every label, the flaneurs, and the shoppers can be accomodated.

But you don't need official "sites" to feel the drama of Paris. You were not impressed by the Marais and saw only a bunch of felafel shops on the Rue des Rosiers. Did you see all the gay nightclubs more or less around the corner? Did you ask how these coexist with a neighborhood that is basically ultra-Orthodox Jewish? Mystery there. Did you see the memorial, just a bit past L'As du Felafel and just a bit above head level, to the Jewish schoolchildren rounded up and sent to a death camp? Not a generic memorial to all the school children, but a memorial to those children in the primary school that once existed on that spot. I am not Jewish, but it makes me cry and prompts the question of how a society so civilized and so cultured in so many ways could allow such things. And so you are lead into history and culture. Did you see Finkelstayn's restaurant across the corner from L'As de Felafel? Did you know that in the 1970's gunmen opened fire on innocent customers there, simpy because they were Jews and three of them died? Why? What happened? What happened to the murderers? Is this not more than felafel shops, is it not sufficient drama for a street?

Once you notice those memorials set into walls, you can walk all around Paris looking for memorials to resistance martyrs, to people who died in the last hours of the German occupation in order to hasten the freedom of the many? These were men and women from the same society as those who allowed the deportations. How do you reconcile their courage and their fellow citizens' cowardice? This leads you to history and to a whole new way of looking at the streets around you.

While we are thinking about the Resistance, look at the Place de la Concorde. It is just a big horrible traffic circus now, but what happened there in 1944? Who lived in the Hotel Meurice? And what happened there in the Revolution? Can you imagine the blood from the guillotine soaking your feet?

What we see in a city very much depends on what we bring to it. The same thing applies to food, though the subject is trivial. If you know that the French generally like duck still red if not actually saignant (duck a la Rouen is saignant) and if you like olives, you may be pleased with the duck at Allard. If you only order it because it is a signature dish, or if you go to Allard in the first place because it is a checklist restaurant, you may be disappointed.

What you bring home depends on what you take. Is Paris perfect? Of course not. Is Paris dull? Not if you approach it with something more than a tourist's dulled eyes.

Ackislander

That is a wonderful post. What you bring home depends on what you take. Words to live by!

I'm still amused by this post. Does anyone remember the Bob Newhart show (the one with Suzanne Pleshette) episode, "Jerry's Retirement"? Jerry the dentists gets some windfall, retires, and starts to whittle with old people? If I recall correctly, Bob suggests he might want to use this time to go to Europe, an idea that is dismissed with the words along the line of "Why? It needs a coat of paint!"

This post and the "End of Tourism" post both have that same tone, the "I can't appreciate this, I've had to wait in a line, so therefore it's worthless" thing.

Ackislander, Thank you for bringing back to all of us the memories of how we felt coming across all those memorials in the Marais around ten years ago. My daughter read your post this morning and reminded me that we came upon the school memorial in surprise, caught our breath, and just cried. And pointing out that strange juxtaposition of gay and Orthodox was great too--we remembered getting our coffee on our Marais street every morning to the soundtrack of "Priscilla, Queen of the Dessert"--almost impossible to get our caffeine without looking for a disco ball on the ceiling.

Again,Ackislander,thank you for bringing back a treasured trip for us with such a beautiful, thoughtful post.