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This article might interest you, the largest asteroid to hit the UK
https://www.independent.co.uk/news/s...-a8951141.html |
Day 11 : Ullapool
We had booked ourselves on a 2 hour cruise to the Summer Isles this morning. With about 20 passengers and a dog on board, the boat set sail towards this group of uninhabited islands near the mouth of Loch Broom.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...679f8fe619.jpg Strolling around the harbour, while waiting to board https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7165e09347.jpg Funny gate signage along the harbour road https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e558d6c118.jpg Our cruise boat https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf198d2e47.jpg Departing from Ullapool We had enjoyed some of these coastal views from the shore while driving through Coigach peninsula (en route to Ullapool, yesterday), but the views from the water provided an altogether different perspective. We enjoyed the cruise and spotted marine life (including seals and porpoises) and birds (including eagles). All this with informative and highly entertaining commentary from the hilariously funny navigator and guide (who also graciously lent us his pair of binoculars). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbb5abd719.jpg On board https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9af5c590be.jpg Setting sail https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62598b0f87.jpg Seals https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04be4a1100.jpg Birds on rocky ledge https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eea0a015dd.jpg Pretty coves and beaches https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33c75541a4.jpg More seals https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a3abbfaf0.jpg Views https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7bb5c9376d.jpg Sea Cave from outside https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cac68f802.jpg Within the sea cave, the boat backed up all the way inside ! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efdff90fec.jpg Coigach peninsula from the water https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07ec517151.jpg Salmon farms https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3a262d8c7.jpg Lighthouse We headed back to our B&B. Given the frenetic pace of the trip so far, it was a relief to have a light day (giving my sore feet and our car a rest from all the driving) and allowed for an afternoon nap to rejuvenate ! As I checked my email, I had received a very confusing message from Calmac (the ferry services provider for the Western Isles, where we were headed later in the trip). The email listed my original return journey to the mainland from Barra (Castlebay-Oban) AND an alternate route requiring me to retrace to South Uist (at 4am!) and take the Lochboisdale-Oban ferry (at 6am). I visited the Calmac office in Ullapool who confirmed my suspicion that this was a cancellation and rerouting. They coudnt explain why or print the revised tickets, but gave me vague assurances this would all be OK and could be dealt with when I got to Barra! Evidently, my saga with the Scotland ferries hadn’t quite ended with the Orkney fiasco. More on this story, follows later in my report. In the evening, we strolled around charming Ullapool and climbed up the Ullapool hill to enjoy views over the village and loch. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15250253cc.jpg Ullapool https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...758fd6087f.jpg Ice cream parlour https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...135fdf1e73.jpg Fish n Chips Shop https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d40dce1228.jpg Art studio https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...367e78cb54.jpg Climbing up the hill https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08a1748237.jpg Aerial view of Ullapool https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e27bbd61d.jpg Visit to the Highland Stoneware store, after descending the hill Coming next : The highlight of our trip - 4 days in Torridon .... |
That Cul Mor and Suilven view is so dramatic. So wild, barren, windswept. You’ve seen so much.
I’m trying not to make more holiday plans while travelling, but…the evenings are free to read TR’s! It’s dangerous, isn’t it, lol. |
More gorgeous photos.
My ex did the full Stac Pollaidh trail to the top -- its only 2 or 3 miles but was quite challenging with a lot if elevation gain. I stayed down in the small car park in our campervan and had a nice picnic with our Scottie and Airedale. He wanted to take the Airedale with him but I nixed that idea! |
Adelaidean, I agree - your TR is whetting my appetite for Northern Italy again - we last visited the Dolomites in 2018 and there's so much in the region left to see.
janisj, thanks. Stac Pollaidh does appear innocuous from the base, but it was a hard slog. The photos don't do justice as the views were so sweeping and expansive. |
Day 12 : Torridon
After breakfast and a quick fuel stop, we set off on our long drive to Torridon. The stretch of the A835 down Loch Broom was marred by rain and fog, but it cleared up by the time we hit Corrieshalloch Gorge, our first stop.
We parked very close to the Falls of Measach and made our way to a (shaky) suspension bridge with an impressive view of the crashing falls. After crossing the bridge, there's a wooded path to a metal platform offering another terrific viewpoint. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baf7a520b5.jpg From suspension bridge, view of falls crashing down, https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c78658cd0.jpg The suspension bridge https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1a214c776.jpg View of bridge and falls from the metal platform We then joined the A832 which winds its way around the coast all the way to Kinlochewe, stopping regularly to enjoy the scenery. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4af2b3b672.jpg Along the route https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14fa03a69f.jpg Along the route https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63c933e657.jpg Along the route https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...972804223d.jpg Gruinard Bay, along the route A minor detour led us to the remote Mellon Udrigle beach, hidden behind farmland and pastures. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6861525eae.jpg Passing through farmlands https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b64d0bb3f.jpg Mellon Udrigle Beach https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a196ba2d59.jpg Mellon Udrigle Beach We continued onwards to Gairloch.... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2374690c56.jpg Near Poolewe https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c9f786aeb.jpg At Poolewe https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66e7b147c6.jpg View over Gairloch https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e43713dcd9.jpg View over Gairloch Beach ,.... followed by a minor detour to Badachro for a quick meal. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dfcc4697f9.jpg Badachro Inn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b9dba8ab6.jpg Badachro Inn https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08dbbe3d6e.jpg Seals basking on a rock in the bay at Badachro, as we left As we drove down the western shore of Loch Maree, we pulled over to enjoy the stunning and much-photographed Lone Pine Tree viewpoint with Slioch in the background. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18ddd79f0e.jpg The lone pine tree viewpoint We made another stop further down the shore by the Beinn Eighe Reserve Car Park, which offers two trails. We just chose to linger and enjoy some sunshine, after a sudden shower abated. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f78b45cb53.jpg Loch Maree https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...570d841886.jpg Beinn Eighe https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...382563d77e.jpg Loch Maree, the sun comes out We made our way to the Glen Docherty viewpoint beyond Kinlochewe, one of the most iconic views along the NC500. Absolutely breathtaking! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1680e82ddb.jpg Glen Docherty viewpoint We rejoined the A896 which cuts through the stunning Glen Torridon, stopping for a short walk at the Coulin Estate along the shores of Loch Clair, with our first sighting of the mighty Liathach. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2cc3d96a5.jpg Beinn Eighe pops its head, en route to Torridon https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db654e5a45.jpg At the shores of Loch Clair https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3eb5594a5.jpg Loch Clair, Liathach looms over https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f044f90cb0.jpg Glen Torridon Driving through Glen Torridon had given us a sneak preview of what to expect over our next three days (just wow!). We headed to our Airbnb (one of our best experiences ever), located in an idyllic spot along the shores of Loch Torridon to be warmly received by our hosts, and their adorable golden retriever. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...874e536f19.jpg The river Torridon flows by our B&B https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc406b79d1.jpg B&B grounds https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a817632e6.jpg A warm welcome and a daily dose of love and cuddles! |
Great report. Love the photos. I would love to do the NC500 someday.
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Thank you twk, glad you're enjoying the TR.
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Day 13 : Torridon
With good weather and clear skies, we set off for Applecross. Our host recommended we take the coastal road to Applecross, and return via the Bealach Na Ba, so we descend the steepest section after crossing the pass. There’s little to choose between which direction to take, the views are sensational regardless.
As we drove the A896, our first stop was the panoramic viewpoint over Loch Torridon roughly midway between Annat and Balgy,the photos barely do it justice. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae64c11418.jpg Loch Torridon viewpoint https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27f8d18586.jpg Loch Torridon viewpoint After passing Shieldaig, we branched off to the coastal route. It’s a tortuous single track road, with stunning scenery all around, so enjoy the very slow drive. I’ll let the pictures do the talking. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8b17a5f9d.jpg Driving past Shieldaig https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c792a164a.jpg Low lying cloud https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd20d59e8d.jpg The iconic red roof house near Ardheslaig https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4364a74772.jpg The low lying cloud reappears https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11bba59b07.jpg Croft land near Kenmore https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9fba149e7.jpg Fearnbeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...653eda267d.jpg Fearnmore As the road winded south from Fearnmore, views of Rona and Skye in the far distance emerged. Wow! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e872a0af71.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03be2bbfbe.jpg We stopped at the remote Applecross Sands. We were the only ones on this remote beach, until a lady arrived with her little dog. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...478d675b8f.jpg Applecross Sands https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c86226fc7.jpg Applecross Sands The road continued to wind its way around Applecross Bay. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c8aab5db7.jpg Along the coastal road https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd511e9037.jpg Applecross Bay The whole approach to Applecross was beyond words, with deer and highland cows enjoying some sun. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef85c8add2.jpg Approaching Applecross https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a621af8ee.jpg Deer https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be8205e84b.jpg Highland coos We made two short refuelling breaks – for ourselves at the Walled Garden Cafe, and for our car the historic community-owned petrol station. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f39374d61.jpg Applecross Walled Garden https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b05ab0cbc.jpg Applecross Community filling station After parking our car, we explored the tiny little village of Applecross on foot, it’s literally a single street lined with whitewashed houses (dominated by the Inn), but what a setting ! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26d20b9d87.jpg The village https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...477ca15624.jpg Applecross Inn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...224fb33ce2.jpg Takeaway https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d28be8ed01.jpg Snacking by the shore https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ec3fc513c.jpg Deer by the parking area https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a334386fe6.jpg Close up We then set off to tackle the Bealach na Ba. It means “Path of the Cattle” and is one of the highest mountain roads in the UK. It’s a very narrow, winding, single track record with limited passing places, several hairpin bends and sharp gradient changes. It needs to be driven very carefully especially as it has become so popular, also attracting some reckless drivers. The views are hard to describe, and we made several stops wherever there were larger laybys or designated areas to pull up and stop. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49736012c7.jpg Start of the road from Applecross https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f56871759f.jpg .. and off we go https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...895b06db66.jpg .. the route is popular with bikers https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...551ea15a66.jpg Views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc2992a735.jpg Views https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e8ef08fa4.jpg Views As we got to its highest point and crossed the moutain pass, the road seemed almost vertical as we descended (and we actually passed a car along this, my driving skills were put to the ultimate test!) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccbd38c1f4.jpg At the high point of the pass https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e30063e9e.jpg At the bottom The road finally connects to Tornapress, before rejoining the A896 along Loch Kishorn and heading back towards Sheldiag. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5dc07cd87.jpg Loch Kishorn https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24af479d2e.jpg The Bealach Cafe at Tornapress On reaching the village of Shieldaig, our first order of business was to complete the ~5km circular walk along the Shieldaig peninsula. The start of the path is confusing – we parked by the campsite and entered through the primary school gate ! The rest of the path had some arrow waymarkers painted in the rocks. There are some tricky sections - including a steep section with a chain to hold onto and part of the return through the birch trees. The views were just terrific. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ff050ff36.jpg Shieldaig village https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4566515f47.jpg Along our walking route https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf6de8b999.jpg Views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c64b4acfb3.jpg Views https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60a42a8feb.jpg Views https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2823afb32f.jpg Some tough sections of the route https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47b5afa55e.jpg Views, the Torridon hills look unreal https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...634f8014ca.jpg Heading back to Shieldaig https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de01742e22.jpg Back at the start, signpost We returned to visit the Shieldiag village, before heading back home to Torridon. What a memorable day ! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77cc20d467.jpg Shieldaig Village https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e2fefa237.jpg Loch Shieldaig |
Oh wow, stunning. You had great weather for that drive.
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Day 14 : Torridon
Having mapped out some walks around Loch Torridon with our hosts, we had a pretty good plan for our 3rd day in Torridon.
We first drove to the Beinn Alligin park, and hiked a short way up from the bridge to enjoy some views. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c3d7dcf77.jpg Climbing a short way up the slope of Beinn Alligin, from the carpark https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e16391876.jpg Views from slopes of Beinn Alligin https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a60c6288fd.jpg Descent and return Our first walk focused on the northern shore of the Loch. We drove up to a layby with some parking space outside the private road leading to the Torridon Estate, and then proceeded on foot. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c88da926b5.jpg Start of the trail https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b89e082959.jpg Along the way https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c6cf31811.jpg Along the way, lots of pretty coves https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46eec11732.jpg Through the woods After a forested path and crossing a little stream, we sighted some deer and birds. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37a2b4bba1.jpg Past the stream https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2f9efe5f8.jpg Stork https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5c6cb97be.jpg Deer The path eventually led us to a lovely spot marked Rechullin on the map, at the edge of Inveralligin. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09e24809bc.jpg On the way https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...827b3617e1.jpg At Rechulin https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40afd4e358.jpg Mini golf course ! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a277f247e9.jpg Views At this point, we tuned back and enjoyed the stunning vistas again, passing by the Torridon Estate guesthouse and grounds. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bed625e1c.jpg Heading back https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ec8b809f3.jpg Along the way https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b593751bfc.jpg The Torridon Estate guesthouse We stopped by Fasag for a bite at the Torridon Store and Café and a visit to the open air church nearby. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90ea40638e.jpg At Fasag https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7b8beab41.jpg By the open air church https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac3c7e2830.jpg By the open air church https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80f5ae06d5.jpg At the cafe We then stopped briefly at the deer museum in the Torridon village itself, with lots of deer behind a wired fence. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e38f8d8c5b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca003aaf42.jpg We returned to our B&B, dropping off the car. We used the afternoon to wrap up the final (episodes of Line of Duty Season 6 (which we found on BBC's iPlayer on the TV at our B&B; Netlfix unceremoniously yanked this off their India network). Later that evening, we walked along the southern shore, heading in the direction of the famous 5* resort and hotel - The Torridon before turning back to our B&B. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f057306d0.jpg By the river Torridon https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79fba42430.jpg View of Torridon Village, Liathach towers over https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9995921386.jpg Along the loch south shore https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af37c6ce97.jpg The Torridon hotel, in the distance https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2770853119.jpg Along the pebbly beach, before turning back https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c60cb6d0cb.jpg Sheep grazing https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ada949ad7.jpg Goats grazing https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2445b228a.jpg Back to our B&B |
Day 15 : Torridon
We were lucky to have a fourth straight day of clear weather in Torridon. We drove to The Torridon Outdoors/Activities Centre located by the Bo&Muc café (part of The Torridon hotel estate), which is also a starting point for two trails.
The path begins behind the Beinn Bar and heads through a wooded path to a fork where you can choose the longer Balgy trail (about 14km) or the much shorter Torridon trail (about 2 km). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70a1b7b1e8.jpg Starting at the Bo&Muc cafe grounds We picked the Balgy trail first. We made a detour to a small peninsula - Aird Mhor. We didn’t walk all the way to Balgy but it was good 5-6kms out before we turned to retrace. It was a beautiful walk, and we were the only ones there. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f6192a009.jpg Along the path https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbde79ce5c.jpg Views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcf78a6df9.jpg Views https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0fddf55ca.jpg Little cove https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11bc7d8062.jpg The peninsula https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5445523e46.jpg The peninsula https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe0dce8d7e.jpg Return route As we returned to the fork in the road, we now headed in the direction of the “Torridon trail”. This took us past The Boathouse (a self-catering accommodation available to let by The Torridon) and a little pine clad islet. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54dfe31031.jpg The Boathouse https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...988fc89a8c.jpg The pine clad islet The route then goes through the walled garden of the Torridon (where all the vegetables, herbs etc. are grown and sourced for the hotel) before leading through the stables back to the Bo&Muc café. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...083b74a0e8.jpg The Torridon Garden https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baeeb45f5a.jpg The Torridon Garden https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6537536f1c.jpg The Torridon Stables (now operate as B&B acco) As we left, we passed the stately Torridon Hotel itself, with highland cows grazing near the entrance gates. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1bd01d2b2d.jpg The Torridon In the evening, we drove the 9 mile narrow, winding single track road to Lower Diabaig for dinnerl at the highly recommended and very popular Gille Brighde restaurant. It's one roller coaster of a drive (thankfully hardly any cars passed) with a few viewpoints and spaces to pull aside and stop. The scenery is glorious, and Lower Diabaig is nestled in the remotest corner along Loch Torridon. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80b44b94b1.jpg The drive begins https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7694e944bb.jpg Views https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9e4e4e053.jpg Over Inveralligin https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...964d1f5c65.jpg Bench with a view https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d82d340e8b.jpg Passing Upper Diabaig https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e530ef9ce7.jpg Lower Diabaig emerges in view The wonderful (vegetarian) meal and hospitality at Gille Brighde was a fitting end to our 4 days in Torridon. Reflecting back on our trip, Torridon ranks among the most beautiful places we have seen anywhere on the planet, not just in Scotland. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf23630a50.jpg At the Lower Diabaig pier https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4f98d7059.jpg Along the shore https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c45a21cb02.jpg Outside the restaurant https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...784de02f91.jpg Inside the restaurant |
Stay tuned - our week in the Outer Hebrides, coming next !
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Day 16 : Tarbert (Lewis & Harris)
With the NC500 and Orkney behind us, this segment of the trip report now focuses on our week in the Outer Hebrides.Our itinerary was :
Lewis & Harris : 4 nights, based in Tarbert Uist : 1 night, based in Eriskay Barra : 2 nights based in Castlebay The islands are connected to each other and the Scottish mainland itself by ferries operated by Calmac. We were booked on an afternoon ferry from Uig (at the northern tip of Isle of Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). The alternate sailing is Ullapool-Stornoway. However, I just wanted to experience Skye again (even if only a quick drive through the island) to relive our memories from 2017 (we spent a long weekend, based out of Portree). Its hard to resist the urge to keep pulling over every few miles in Skye. With that in mind, we made a rather early start after bidding a sad farewell to Torridon. We drove quickly down the A896 to Loch Carron and switching over to the slower A890 which led us to the Kyle of Lochalsh (and the bridge that connects Skye to the mainland). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c821f4e77.jpg Kyle of Lochalsh, Skye bridge The rainclouds fortuitously cleared as we got to Skye ! After a quick stop at the Co-Op Store at Broadford to stock up on fuel (surprisingly our cheapest fill during this entire trip?!) and provisions, we continued down the A87. And then the Skye magic began to slowly unfold. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2893a29197.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3873a2b11e.jpg We also made two stops at Sligachan and Portree. I had to keep a close eye on the clock, as we had a 2.30pm ferry to catch (cars need to check in an hour early)! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...201bb34751.jpg The Old Bridge and Sligachan Hotel : https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eff2804fb4.jpg The Black Cuillin Mountains https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a01c357e0c.jpg Portree harbour https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de261c1da2.jpg Driving through Bpsville Terrace, Portree As we worked our way up the A855 through the Trotternish peninsula, so many of our fondest hiking and trekking memories came back to life. We eventually took the narrow single-track road near Quiraing that leads to Uig. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db8c7676fe.jpg Past the Old Man of Storr https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe5d366f5b.jpg Lealt Falls https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf0a8f1948.jpg Quiraing https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03a8ec7d14.jpg Along the Quiraing - Uig road Thankfully, we reached Uig in good time. At Uig harbour, we parked our car in one of the boarding lanes at the port, and took a short stroll. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5288dd0c16.jpg The road descends into Uig https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7aa8949a0b.jpg The Brewery https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da4829fc5f.jpg The Local Store and Filling Station https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00568e3352.jpg The Uig pier It was a calm ~ 2 hour sailing . It had been a long and tiring day, so as we hit Tarbert we just drove to our B&B (located close to the port and right by the loch), relaxed and called it an early night. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...493766fe39.jpg Reaching Tarbert, by the port https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c8f75c8ab.jpg At our lochside B&B |
Including the map at the start of this segment is a nice, helpful touch ~ appreciated!
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I loved my days in Lewis and Harris! Looking forward to hearing about your experience there!
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Thank you everyone for your comments, and continuing to follow my trip report.
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DAY 17 : Tarbert (Lewis & Harris)
Lewis and Harris is actually a single, large island with Lewis to the north and Harris to the south, separated only by mountains. I had planned our driving routes for the next 3 days so we could maximise coverage, without needless backtracking given the large distances. Today, our focus was the historic sites in Lewis and parts of northern Harris.
Our first stop was the very impressive Callanish Standing Stones, which predate the Stonehenge and make for an enthralling experience as you can walk amidst them. It’s unclear whether this was a ritualistic site or an astronomical observatory. There are a few minor sites Callanish 2 and Callanish 3 in the proximity as well. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34eba78292.jpg At Callanish 1 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c113253710.jpg At Callanish 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a25a8cb066.jpg At Callanish 1 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb3d3cbbcb.jpg Views from Callanish 1, visitor centre in the distance https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52cfeebde1.jpg Callanish 2 https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e52602247.jpg Callanish 2, from afar https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60945d0155.jpg Callanish 3 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...798eec8c20.jpg Callanish 3, from afar Our next stop was the Dun Carloway Broch, built around 200BC and used as a defensive structure, providing refuge to people and their livestock. We made it out just before a bus arrived depositing a large tour group! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd98d02ad9.jpg Climbing up to the broch https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d09ac7cc07.jpg At the broch https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10bfe637d8.jpg Views from the broch Our final stop on Lewis was the Garenin Blackhouse village, to get a preview of the traditional blackhouses with thatched roofs built in the 1800s across the Hebrides. Today, these serve as self catering accommodation! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da33ba0a5f.jpg Entrance area and reception https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75629738b7.jpg The village houses https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99d4deb87b.jpg Art gallery next door We retraced back to Harris and joined the minor road B8011. As we approached Uig Bay, we visited the replica of 12th century chess pieces, erected close to the spot where an ivory carved set was discovered in the 1800s and possibly the oldest chess set in the world ! The Ardroil Beach at Uig Bay was staggering – white sands stretching as far as the eye could see, and the clearest blue water. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fa0925dad.jpg Chess piece exhibit by Uig Bay https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...598bb7579b.jpg Approach https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2cc708120.jpg Lots of coves https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c8b396c9c.jpg The beach https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e698a15bb.jpg By the sea https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bf9e66b01.jpg Finally a family joins us Our next stop was the wild and rocky beach at Mangersta. We had this beach to ourselves! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98cffcda64.jpg Mangersta https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dbe7f567e.jpg Mangersta https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae2049a557.jpg Along the beach https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20e4a33aba.jpg View of Mangersta, from parking A short drive down the road brought us to the magnificent Mangersta sea stacks. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6269b918e.jpg The stacks https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...325a364190.jpg Cliffs, with exposed pink stone - which I suspect makes for dramatic sunsets As we headed back, we made a final detour through the Valtos peninsula to pass through the little villages of Cliff, Kneep and Reef with more stunning beaches and coastal landscape. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3e93935a4.jpg Beach at Reef https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c988b32a60.jpg Beach at Cliff https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7abea53d1.jpg Church near Miavaig, what a setting We then made our way back to Tarbert, absorbing more of Harris' gorgeous scenery en route and excited about what the next 2 days held in store! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1aaa70b34.jpg En route to Tarbert https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba1db636bd.jpg En route to Tarbert What a day it had been – the Outer Hebrides made us feel we had been teleported into a different universe and time ! |
So enjoying your journey!
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These outer areas of Scotland are so otherworldly, it's strange to think that people actually live there! I think it's fascinating to think about what that kind of life would be like.
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