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Wow, ANUJ. What a country. Excellent TR.
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Thank you memejs and stokebailey, I'm enjoying your ongoing trip reports as well!
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Day 7 : Durness
As we had shifted our bookings to Northlink Ferries, we had to drive back that morning to Stromness from Kirkwall, for the sailing to Scrabster. We landed back on Scottish mainland and started drivng the A836 westwards in the direction of Durness.
We stopped to stretch our legs at the gorgeous Melvich beach, there was absolutely nobody around and we had the beach to ourselves. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d8bdb8631.jpg Views from near parking lot at Melvich https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c8e6e96d6.jpg At the Melvich Beach As we passed Bettyhill, the scenery got more interesting till a heart-stoppingly beautiful moment on the high road above Coldbackie, with turqoise water and silvery sands glittering as the sunlight intermittently permeated the clouds. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01aad56f76.jpg Views from Coldbackie We stopped by the Tongue Causeway to absorb the wonderful views out to the Kyle of Tongue. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70b3251621.jpg Views https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f67468cc0.jpg The Tongue causeway https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9b1950f2e.jpg At the crossing https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...936515bdb6.jpg Views The gorgeous views continued as the road winded past Heilam and around Loch Eriboll. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ccc00637b.jpg Ard Neakie Lime Kilns at Heilam https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3b5a93be7.jpg Along the road circling Loch Eriboll, fascinating how the light kept changing every few miles We stopped to visit the Smoo Cave, a large natural sea cave east of Durness. There’s a car park near the route to the cave entrance. Inside the cave, a wooden pathway leads to a cascade. We were late for the boat tour that ventures deeper within the cave (operates utnil 4pm only). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3769ec4b39.jpg Smoo Cave mouth https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13cf4c6b12.jpg Inside, with the footbridge https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f35912c55.jpg Deeper inside, towards cascade https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f45e447cf2.jpg Exiting the cave https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c29f496098.jpg Outside the cave, views out to the sea We made our way quickly to Cocoa Mountain, conscious of their 5pm closing time. Cocoa Mountain is a gourmet chocolate shop that claims to make the world’s best hot chocolate. It's located in the Balnakeil Craft Village, a mile west of Durness, and is home to several eclectic art and craft shops. .https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b52f72157.jpg Cocoa Mountain https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb2b8d1cec.jpg Ceramics Shop at Balnakeil Village https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4b8b47411.jpg Art Gallery at Balnakeil Village Energized with our hot chocolates, we drove up to the stunning Balnakeil Beach nearby. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b40b421e3.jpg At the Balnakeil beach https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a529b7b9e2.jpg Walking along https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...349d0f90b0.jpg View of house and church from beach We finally checked into our B&B in Durness. Durness is the northernmost habitation on the British mainland, but is really just a tiny collection of houses, two stores and a fuel pump! After settling in, we walked past the Sango Sands campsite (an enviable location) to Durness Beach, an absolutely beautiful spot to linger that evening. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df07277731.jpg Durness Beach https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1baf8fd72f.jpg Durness Beach https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e07ce1aaa6.jpg Amidst the rocks https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9868e52240.jpg The oldest grocery store in Durness https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af76094ec1.jpg Back at our B&B |
So was it the world's best hot chocolate?!
Durness beach looks beautiful! |
Stunning, atmospheric views. Fun adventurous trip. I'd especially love to visit those prehistoric sites
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I'm also really enjoying this TR through some of my favorite parts of Scotland. I hope the sun came out at some point, particularly along the west coast.
Originally Posted by stokebailey
(Post 17469110)
Stunning, atmospheric views. Fun adventurous trip. I'd especially love to visit those prehistoric sites
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6562319d37.jpg |
Enjoying your report and love that photo of Brora harbour...probably because the sun was out:)
Curious about that hot chocolate too. |
Enjoying your report and photos. Looks like you visited some very remote places. Just beautiful!
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Originally Posted by Gardyloo
(Post 17469169)
I'm also really enjoying this TR through some of my favorite parts of Scotland. I hope the sun came out at some point, particularly along the west coast.
One of the (IMO) premier prehistoric sites on mainland Scotland was just south of the OP's route, on a tiny un-numbered road that runs south from Loch Eriboll toward Altnaharra and Lairg. It's not suitable for inclusion in the "NC500" route - way too small a road - but Broch Dun Dornaigil, a broch (or prehistoric fort) going back to 1000 - 2000 BCE sits there at the side of the road, with nothing but sheep and dragonflies for company. Map - https://goo.gl/maps/rCTCCqkhqdRdRdG2A https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6562319d37.jpg |
Just came upon this report and want to say thank you for sharing. Appreciate your whetting my appetite of Scotland. The settings look bucolic and end-of-the-earth at the same time.
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Thanks all, for your continued interest in my TR.
memejs and Melnq8, hot chocolate after a long drive and 6°C temperatures was very welcome regardless! Candidly, “World’s Best Hot Chocolate” conjures up the likes of Angleina (Paris) or San Gines (Madrid). Stokebailey, it’s this mix of pre-history and the unspoilt rugged natural beauty that makes Scotland special. Gardyloo, we got really lucky with weather along the West Coast (bright and sunny days), as you’ll see later in the TR. Very evocative picture of the broch. KarenWoo, you’ll be itching to return to Scotland after your ongoing trip – it is a truly remarkable place. I’m surprised I held off a return trip for as long (notwithstanding my aborted attempt in in 2020 courtesy covid). tripplanner001, that’s a very apt description of the Northern Highlands. |
Day 8 : Lochinver
After breakfast, we embarked on a long day of driving down the A838 to Lochinver, a fishing village and port set amidst the spectacular scenery of the Assynt region. It was a slow, stunningly beautiful drive along largely single track roads.
We pulled over at the Millenium Stone viewpoint, with sweeping views over the Kyle of Durness and Keoldale Sheep farm. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1939186077.jpg By the stone https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2954f22e9.jpg Keoldale Sheepfarm in the distance At Rhiconich, we took a minor detour up the B801 beyond Kinlochbervie, to visit the beautiful Oldshoremore beach. Not a soul in sight except another couple with their playful dogs. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75424cd167.jpg The road to Olshoremore https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3408918f52.jpg At the beach At Laxford Bridge, we made another detour to Loch Stack enjoying the stunning Assynt landscapes. It’s easy to see why this region is believed to have inspired Tolkein’s mythical Middle Earth! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85d06ad661.jpg Stunning drive https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0afd1a1bae.jpg ByLoch Stack https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a5308b66a.jpg By Loch Stack We then retraced back to the A894, stopping at multiple points to enjoy the glorious scenery, until we reached the highly-photographed Kylesku Bridge. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...329c7a182a.jpg Badcall Bay https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cb8e48516.jpg Assynt landscapes https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5068fefddb.jpg Kylesku Bridge https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...146dc66091.jpg Views, near Kylesku Hotel As we crossed Unapool, we opted for the narrow coastal road B869 to Lochinver (rather than the main roads A894 and A837), enjoying some more of the fabulous Assynt scenery. We made a stop at the quaint village of Drumbeg. As we passed Clashnessie beach, we parked further down the road, to eventually find a boggy path leading to the very impressive Clashnessie Falls. It’s easy to miss this - no signposting at all! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c18a984b73.jpg Along the B869 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...263ac8f5bf.jpg Along the B869 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02febee02b.jpg Drumbeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd88e68cc3.jpg Clashnessie Beach https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7565f16e08.jpg The path to the falls https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d8f518389.jpg Clashnessie Falls A brief stop at Clachtoll beach followed.... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23523ace7c.jpg Clachtoll Beach https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4be584572.jpg Whale jaw and fin bone exhibit by the parking And our final stop - the glorious Achmelvich Beach. You wouldn’t associate Scotland as a beach destination, but ironically it boasts some of the very best in the world. I wonder if its ever warm enough to swim – I’d probably need a wetsuit even at the peak of summer. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c60ceafa41.jpg Path over dunes to the hidden beach https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b9b07640f.jpg Achmelvich Beach Hungry from our adventures, we pulled up at the famous Lochinver Larder, widely acknowledged as the best pie shop in Scotland (they even send pies by post!). Lots of vegetarian choices, savoury and sweet - delicious food in a beautiful setting. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9eff9e9949.jpg Lochinver Larder https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83ffa0d918.jpg Inside the pieshop https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68ef26e7a4.jpg Outside the pieshop, benches by the river We finally checked into our B&B. After a short rest, we headed out for a leisurely walk (suggested by our hosts) in the nearby Culag Woods (offers a great viewpoint for Mount Suilven) until the rain forced us to head back. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c0e4652e7.jpg Lochinver Harbour https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9f277732e.jpg Culag Woods https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c3dfa4ab2.jpg The White Shore |
What is terrible about the scenery that we all love in the Highlands is that much of it is man-made. Scottish deforestation (long before Scotland as a nation existed) is an awful thing and shows you just how dangerous mankind can be. For example Orkney is virtually completely empty of trees (a friend is working to replant a tiny woodland at the moment) but the various tombs and ancient dead-houses would have been surrounded by trees when actually being used. This is true of many of the rest of the spaces visited.
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Bilbo, that history is - in part - more recent than prehistoric in the parts of Sutherland than the OP visited. One of the purposes behind the Highland Clearances, of which Sutherland was the epicenter, thanks to the occupants of Dunrobin Castle among others, was the introduction of sheep farming as the principal agricultural activity in the region, replacing mixed farming (we'd call it crofting now) and cattle as the main products. Because farming sheep requires far less work than cattle, there was an instant surplus of workers in the Highlands, so it was easier for the landowners (many of them absentee English or Scots who'd been on the winning side in the 1745 rising) to evict the locals - the Clearances - than to find things for them to do to survive.
Unlike cattle, sheep graze right down to the roots and below, uprooting the plant life rather than biting off the tops. Sapling trees and other more robust and land-covering plant life don't stand a chance, especially given the short growing season at these latitudes, hence grass, gorse and heather (which the sheep don't like) become the prominent land cover. It makes for dramatic scenery but in many respects much of it is indeed "artificial," or man-made, or more specifically, sheep-made. ANUJ, I'm really enjoying your images of the northwest coast, and I'm so glad the sun made an appearance. It brings back a lot of memories. Well done. Speaking of which, when I saw the picture below, I had to stop and search my photo collection. This house overlooking the amazing view is a real show-stopper. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75424cd167.jpg ... and it was fifty years ago, too. Here's a picture I took from the same spot in 1973 or 1974 when I was working in that part of Sutherland. Note the house has been expanded somewhat, the tree on the right side of the house is bigger, and it looks like they've replaced the thatched roof with modern roofing. But it's still the same gorgeous place. Weird, eh? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04df9c4a3c.jpg Small world. |
bilboburgler, I share your concerns about deforestation in general. I'm reminded of the ugly spat between Brazil and the EU not long ago, and the tragic irony of possibly the worst two offenders on the planet schooling each over the Amazon depletion.
Gardyloo, thanks for that input, some of which I didnt know about. Also, what a remarkable co-incidence - its the same stunning spot en route to Oldshoremore! |
Beautiful photos.
Funny, we visited Scotland nearly 40 years ago, had zero plans and no idea how stunning that landscape is. I still remember the shock and awe. |
You're so right about the beautiful beaches! I know a lot of people are drawn to Scotland to see castles and the highlands, but one of the reasons it went to the top of my priority list is because I watched some YouTube videos that showed white sand beaches with crystal clear water.
Also, you've got to love all of the bakeshops around Scotland! |
Adelaidean, enjoying your TR too. This "shock and awe" factor kept going up a notch every passing day along the west coast as we headed to Torridon.
memejs,if beaches are your thing, stay tuned for the Outer Hebrides portion of this TR (to follow). |
Day 9 : Lochinver
Our second day in Lochinver was even more eventful. After a sumptuous breakfast, we set off in the direction of Loch Assynt towards Quinag for a hike. The Quinag is a mountain range with 3 peaks, and one of the most popular hikes in the region. Despite arriving early, the car park was already full, so we parked in a layby some distance away. It’s a stony, but well-maintained path, and we didn’t venture further than the ridge leading to the first peak Spidean Coinich. The sweeping views out to Mount Suilven and Loch Assynt were breath-taking, and we just sat there soaking it all in.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47fcd209ad.jpg Near the parking https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...533a1f90d6.jpg Start of the path, after entry gate https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82ca02ec27.jpg The climb up the stony path https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97d047cba2.jpg Views from first peak, Loch Assynt https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...086811cffb.jpg Views of second peak from first summit https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3133f45873.jpg Sweeping views from first summit https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b672b86461.jpg Walking back to the parking https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d090bf777a.jpg Looking back after descent, we made it to the first "nose" at the end of the long ridge We then drove further up the A894 towards Loch na Gainmhich to trek to the bottom of the Wailing Widow Falls. The falls are set deep inside a ravine strewn with rocks, and tricky to navigate in parts, but very rewarding in the end. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6936bd164c.jpg Near the parking https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d9fd01ac7.jpg Getting deeper in the ravine, looking back https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ca5765724.jpg Many stones to climb over https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a92d07927.jpg The falls We headed back towards Loch Assynt to visit the ruins of the 15th century Ardvreck Castle sitting on a promontory, in a picture-perfect setting. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3b3ed595e.jpg At the Ardvreck Casle https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e329a5682.jpg Views from Castle grounds https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7655c7de03.jpg Castle sitting on the promontory https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e6f1dfd1c.jpg Ardvreck Castle from a distance We then made our way beyond Inchnadamph towards the Bone Caves. These are a set of natural pre-Ice Age caves set high in a limestone cliff, where a large number of animal bones were discovered during excavation (hence the name). It’s a beautiful trail through a deep, secluded valley with a steep climb up to the caves followed by a sharp descent right along the edge of the cliff back to the valley. We were greeted by a deer at the end of our walk! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9703366af2.jpg Start of the path https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fe29f71f5.jpg Deeper in the valley https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb80484a5d.jpg Inside the cave (1) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44309e7b7b.jpg Inside the cave (2) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b92b27baf.jpg View of valley from caves https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13b4f5e4f7.jpg Descending along the cliffside path https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd595c6c11.jpg The return route https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93041022ca.jpg A deer comes out to greet us https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26fea302d3.jpg Looking back at how far we had climbed to get to the caves, they appear like little holes in the sheer rock face We returned to Lochinver, ate a hearty dinner and called it an early night after a supremely active and tiring day. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...762724d607.jpg Returning to Lochinver, along Loch Assynt shores https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5498790e43.jpg Returning to Lochinver, short stop at Little Assynt https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...894a77a04b.jpg Back in Lochinver PS – Ironically, Lochinver was the primary filming location for a movie called Edie we had seen in 2017. It’s the story of a 80 year old woman pursuing her unfulfilled dream of climbing Mount Suilven. The movie certainly inspired us to travel here, but hiking formidable Suilven – no thank you! |
Day 10 : Ullapool
After breakfast, we set off for Ullapool, our base for the next 2 nights. We took the Wee Mad Road or B869 – a narrow, winding road through stunning landscapes and coastal scenery. As the designated driver, it was impossible for me to keep my eyes glued on the road, with such staggering beauty competing for attention.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55808acf98.jpg Heading south of Lochinver, Suilven raises its head in the distance https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c254c75c73.jpg Along the Wee Mad Road https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be232f7cc9.jpg Views https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe181b72ce.jpg Sheep by the loch We made a small detour via Coigach. This is a really remote, sparsely populated peninsula scattered with some fishing and crofting communities. We made brief stops by the totally desolate Achanhaird Bay and at the village of Achiltibuie. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85c8970099.jpg Driving by Achnahaird Bay https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c055f87e1b.jpg The desolate beach at Achanhaird https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa98cb1810.jpg Views from Achiltibuie https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e358ec2ab.jpg Achiltibuie church Our next stop was Stac Pollaidh, the iconic mountain with a distinctive rocky crest. We had no intention of scaling it to the summit, but we got almost as far up as the ridge, and the views were good enough for us without taking undue risks. We descended via the same path back to our car parking near Loch Lurgainn. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...691557ef33.jpg View of Stac Pollaidh from parking https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a05fbed880.jpg At the base https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b27f01f431.jpg The ascent https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13fb36b7a9.jpg View of Cul Mor and Suilven https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76078e4312.jpg Near the Stac Pollaidh ridge, we didn't attempt the summit https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2de38096e.jpg View of Stac Pollaidh summit Our next planned hike was Knockan Crag, an interesting site where the exposed multi-layered rock in the mountainside tells the story of continents crashing together millions of years ago (the Moine Thrust). It’s a well-maintained trail, slightly steep in parts but well worth a visit for the geology and views. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08ec3f1687.jpg Start of the trail at the Visitor Centre https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa21297858.jpg Jo Smith globe structure https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0279a6659c.jpg The path through the rock https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0812cb63da.jpg View from top We finally reached Ullapool, our base for the next 2 nights. With its distinctive whitewashed cottages lining the harbour and glorious views across Loch Broom and its flanking hills, this fishing village enjoys a picturesque setting. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...341786f55f.jpg White washed houses of Ullapool https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b11d51415a.jpg Walking by the harbour https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d513b681ff.jpg The Calmac Stornoway ferry arrives https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43729a2627.jpg Views of Loch Broom from Ullapool shore |
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