15 night first/last trip to Italy--please comment
 

We are two seniors for whom this will be our only trip to Italy. I still can't believe I'm in that category, but that's the way it is. We are very active, though, and I want to see everything, reasonably, that I can. However, I am very open to suggestions. Although we do plan to visit churches and museums, my husband is only going to go to so many, so I may visit some while he has coffee/wine nearby. We like the famous things but also the out-of-the-ordinary.

We will arrive in Rome on Saturday,May 5 and fly home from Venice on Sunday,May 20, so a total of 15 nights. Plane and train tickets to Salerno, Florence and Venice have been purchased, but side trips are all open.

Rome, arrival at 7:15 AM (if plane on time)--4 nights. On the average, how long does it take to go through customs? We're taking only carry-on luggage and planning to take the Leonardo Express to our hotel (actually, a convent in the Monti District). Will a taxi be better? I've purchased tours for the Vatican (on Tuesday) and the Colleseum/Forum/Palantine Hill (on Monday), as well as a 2hr. Welcome to Rome tour the
Saturday evening we arrive. I'd also like to do a Catacombs tour (the one I'm considering includes the Catacomb of Santa Priscilla, the Capuchin bone crypt, and Basilica of San Nicola in Carcere. If you've done this, is it worth $174.08?

Early train to Salerno--4 nights--
We arrive in Salerno at 9:00 AM--Things to/Places to see: Paestum, Pompeii, Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, Isle of Capri with tentative itinery: Day 1 arrival, so at least a good 1/2 day: Paestum
Day 2: Isle of Capri-hopefully, weather will cooperate, but if not, we'll go first day weather permits. We have no qualms about touring in rain, but understand the ferries won't go if choppy sea.
Day 3: Ferry to Positano then take bus back with stops in Amalfi and Ravello, maybe Vietre sul Mare???
Day 4: Positano
If it appears the weather will be good both days 3 &4, we'll switch those sites.

Train to Florence (arrival around noon--4 nights with possible day trip to Pisa and Lucca or Siena. Very open to thoughts and advice here.

Early train to Venice--3 nights

Thank you in advance for any comments or suggestions.

Just a word about trains (your itinerary sounds perfect) - book far in advance at Acquista il biglietto con le nostre offerte - Trenitalia or www.italotreno.com for discounted tickets - much cheaper than full fare walk up tickets but also non-changeable non-refundable. Other sources good train info - www.seat61.com - sage advice on discounted tickets; BETS-European Rail Experts and ricksteves.com.

Salerno is a nice city but far from Pompeii and Capri and Positano/Ravello/Amalfi. Many here rave about Positano - maybe base there and stay last nights in Salerno.

Do you really think you'll be up for an evening tour of Rome on the day of your arrival?

Agree with St Cirq. Think your time is a little short for Rome but otherwise timing is good. Why Salerno as opposed to Sorrento or the A Coast which is where you are spending most of your time in that area.

Florence day trips- Pisa for the Tower great - Lucca is a nice old town but for one of those iconic Tuscan hill towns take the short cheap bus ride to Siena.

From your other threads, I am presuming you are from the U.S. I commented based on this assumption.

>> How long does it take to go through customs?
The customs portions is a five-second event if you have nothing to declare. What takes time in your case if the passport control. It totally depends on how many other planes landed around that time with people going through non-EU passport holder line.

>> planning to take the Leonardo Express to our hotel (actually, a convent in the Monti District). Will a taxi be better?
Better in what sense?
Leonardo express is 14EU each. If you can walk (you have not stated where your convent is) that is the totality of the expense. If up the hill or far from the Termini, you need to take a taxi on top of that.
If you take a taxi from the airport, it is fixed cost 48EU.
Taxi - Aeroporti di Roma

>>> Ferry to Positano then take bus back with stops in Amalfi and Ravello, maybe Vietre sul Mare???
This would be a one tough itinerary to execute with public transit alone.

On item you did not ask and too late to something about this time. I mention this for the benefit of others doing a similar thing in the future.

>>> Rome, arrival at 7:15 AM … planning to take the Leonardo Express to our hotel
Can you check-into your convent in the morning? You would like to have to leave your luggage somewhere and hit the city with what you flew into Rome or get change somewhere like a bathroom. An alternate would have been to skip Rome upon landing since you are getting there so early. Travel straight to Salerno to take care of that segment. You could have gotten 2 for 1 benefit. Stay in Rome between Salerno and Florence.

>> fly home from Venice
If you are flying back to U.S. without layover from Venice, the flights are probably late morning or in the afternoon. If, however, if you need to layover in Europe before heading home, your Venice departure might be very early. Very early departure from Venice is tougher to deal with than from Rome due to need to use a slow or expensive water transportation unless you are staying near Piazzale Roma. What this means is that for those coming from the U.S. needing to layover in Europe on the way home, VCE departure needs to be thought out before hitting that “buy” airfare button.

">> How long does it take to go through customs?
The customs portions is a five-second event if you have nothing to declare. What takes time in your case if the passport control. It totally depends on how many other planes landed around that time with people going through non-EU passport holder line."

I meant to address this, but forgot and greg beat me to it. I will never understand why Americans, and it is only Americans, refer to "customs" as if it were the equivalent of going through passport control. Were they once upon a time combined? No one who doesn't have anything to declare, which is the vast majority of travelers, has to be pulled aside by Customs officials. Everyone who enters a foreign country has to go through an immigration and passport control line. That is what eats up time. Especially for travelers from the USA who arrive in major European airports early in the morning when dozens of other flights arrive at the same time.

I agree that those early morning departures from Venice can be a big PITA.

Do you have your hotels yet? I've only been to Venice (twice) and loved Pensione La Calcina there. Hotel La Calcina Venice Official Site | Hotel La Calcina Venice 3 Star

With only 4 days in Rome, I personally would not schedule 4 different tours or try to fill all your days in advance. I would want time to walk around on my own and do spontaneous things as well.

Thanks to all for your replies. Yes, we are flying to Rome out of JFK and back from Venice into Philadelphia. The flight out of Venice leaves at 12:10 PM. I can't imagine I won't be up for a short evening tour on the day we land in Rome. My husband might have another answer, but I'm always "sitting on go!" It begins at 6:00 and lasts only 2 - 2.5 hrs. If we don't do the tour, I still plan for us to be walking around, etc. He can take a short nap before we go.

I picked Salerno after reading a blog by Walks of Italy regarding what a good base Salerno is for sightseeing on the Almalfi Coast. However, since reading your reply, I've booked a centrally located hotel in Amalfi for at least 3 nights. When I can (hopefully) figure out the bus schedules, we'll either stay there for the 4th night or, as you suggested, go to Salerno. I can cancel in the next 23 hrs., so if you think this is not a good idea, please let me know as soon as possible. With the change in hotel lodging, will it now be possible to visit Positano and Ravello on the same day---although, I guess, since we're going to be so near we can visit Ravello most any time we have some extra time??? BTW, my original draft itinerary did call for us to arrive in Rome and immediately take the train to Salerno for 4 nights before heading back to Rome for our stay there. I changed because several people on another message board could not understand why I would do that. I changed boards because some posters tended to get a little cranky if their suggestions weren't followed to the letter. :)

The convent is on Via Sistina 113 and, although I am not certain, I don't think it is a long way from Stazione Termini. In fact, the directions say to take the Leonardo Express. However, it doesn't tell me what to do after that. They will allow us to leave our luggage.

Regarding Pisa/Siena. The only reason to visit Pisa is to see the tower. Are you suggesting I go from Pisa to Siena before returning to Florence, or skipping Pisa in favor of a trip to Siena, of which I am totally in favor.

Don't know about other Americans, but in my case, I think the assumption about Custom is simply a lack of traveling abroad--so ignorance on my part. Thank you for telling me the difference.

Again, thanks to everyone for trying to help me have a successful trip. I'll be happy to hear any additional thoughts or advice.

It would be hard to do both Pisa and Siena justice in same day. Thought you were contemplating 2 day trips or one.

Yes, we will be doing just one day trip...would you pick Siena over Pisa?

And to clarify the suggestion of staying in Salerno, I believe the main reason was due to easy travel by train to both Pompeii and Paestum as well as ferries to both Amalfi and Positano. I am truly in a quandary as to where to base on AC since actually being on the coast will be wonderful, but am now wondering how easy it will be to get to Pompeii and Paestum from Amalfi.

You mention wanting to go to Pompeii but don't include it in your day-by-day plans. Personally, I prefer Pompeii over Paestum, but that's me. If you'd be willing or want to forego Paestum in favor of Pompeii, I'd suggest you base yourselves in Sorrento from which Pompeii and Capri are more accessible and the coastal towns still accessible. From Sorrento, you might also have time to squeeze in a few hours at the Naples Archeology Museum which is where nearly all of the artifacts found at Pompeii are exhibited. Regarding the Rome-Salerno train tickets already purchased, you can check to see if the train you booked will stop at Napoli Centrale. If so, you could get off there and take the cheap commuter/metro train to Sorrento. You'd only be spending a few extra euros.

Again, personal choice, but I'd go to Siena rather than Pisa (with or without Lucca). But if you choose climbing the Leaning Tower, you need to make timed reservations for that and arrive a few minutes before your reservation to deal with checking bags/backpacks, umbrellas, etc. And, in the event of rain, I probably wouldn't climb the tower. The marble can be very slippery when wet.

Your convent, Instituto Immacolata Concezione Nostra Signora di Lourdes, is located 1.5 km from Roma Termini where the Leonardo Express arrives. It might be a 20 minute walk and there are some hills along the way depending on which way you walk. It is near Trinita dei Monti and the top of the Spanish Steps where Via Sistina ends. It is not the same as the Monti neighborhood near Santa Maria ai Monti.

The Cappuccine Crypt is a short walk from your hotel. I can imagine needing a guide to tour it, although I did enjoy my visit with my med-student niece--she had a great time identifying all the bones in each design.

I love the charming Hotel al Ponte Mocenigo in Venice. It is a quieter but easily accessible neighborhood just steps from the San Stae vaporetto stop, which is also where the Alilaguna Arancia line to the airport stops.

I'm sorry; I typed Positano instead of Pompeii for day 4. I, definitely, can drop Paestum in place of Pompeii. I'd never even heard of Paestum before reading about it on trip report. And, I do believe we'll go to Siena instead of Pisa.

Thank you for your help.

Thank you for clarifying the location of the convent. I do hope it's in a safe neighborhood. I will look at the website for the
Cappuccine Crypt to see if they offer on-site guided tours without having to use a third-party guide. I tried the Hotel al Ponte Mocenigo in Vencie, but they only have availability for one of my nights. We currently booked at Zaguri B & B, San Marco 2632, Fondamenta Zaguri but have a window of time for cancellation.

Thank you so much for your help.

Be careful at the Termini, which is a haven for pickpockets.

I've never used the Leonardo Express. Always take a shared shuttle, usually around 20 Euros, which get you from the airport to your hotel. Downside is that if they drop off other passengers first, you may be waiting for awhile. Plus you may run into traffic. But you don't have to deal with taking the train and then queuing up for taxi at the Termini.

It is a lot to pack in for 15 days. Be aware that in a lot of places, you're going to be walking up steps, on hard rocky surfaces. A day trip to Pompeii is a lot of walking as well. You may not want to schedule consecutive days or heavy walking. Maybe hit the treadmill and stair climbers at the gym for a couple of weeks before your trip.

>>>Instituto Immacolata Concezione Nostra Signora di Lourdes, is located 1.5 km from Roma Termini where the Leonardo Express arrives. It might be a 20 minute walk and there are some hills along the way depending on which way you walk. It is near Trinita dei Monti and the top of the Spanish Steps where Via Sistina ends. It is not the same as the Monti neighborhood near Santa Maria ai Monti. <<<

Right. It's not in Monti. It's in rione Colonna. So if you have been searching the Monti area and thinking you are staying there, you aren't. Via Sistina might be a bit noisy. I would ask for a room on the courtyard. While you could hop the metro at Termini for 2 stops and get off at Barberini which would put you almost at the convent, it would involve a long trek and going down several levels in Termini, buying tickets to hop on a crowded subway. By that time, you probably could have walked.

>>>I do hope it's in a safe neighborhood. <<<

The neighborhood is fine.

>>I will look at the website for the
Cappuccine Crypt to see if they offer on-site guided tours without having to use a third-party guide. <<

I think Ellen meant she couldn't imagine needing a tour. Last time I was there, entry was by donation. There may be a set fee now. They also have a convent with rooms for tourists.

https://www.casacappucciniroma.it/

If I wanted a coast experience, Salerno would not be my choice (just don't find it attractive), but if you are going to Paestum and need to head out by train early to Florence it might make sense. To me it just seems more city, not quaint coastal towns

It's not easy to travel between Pisa and Siena unless you have a car. Public transport would take a lot of time and connections.

I did think our convent was in the Monti District, so thank you for clarifying that and confirming that it is a safe neighborhood. Maybe it's just me and my lack of knowledge, but I find it difficult to determine which districts in Rome the hotels are located, unless they're large enough (or whatever reason) and located by name on a map.

Regarding the shuttle from the airport: I assume it is not problem to hire after landing, or do we need to make a reservation? We may end up deciding to take a taxi, but I don't mind waiting for them to drop off other passengers. We arrive early, and it will give us an opportunity for more sightseeing. We will take a taxi to the train station the day we leave.

I'm glad to know we can do the Cappuccine Crypt on Sunday...we don't have anything planned for that day, and I don't really want to do the free tours since they will be so crowded. have to decide tonight what to do about lodging on Amalfi coast.

Great information. Thanks!

You can check and book shuttle on sites like viator.com.

You can wait but if you can lock in a price that seems good (based on the exchange rate when you book), it's probably a good idea to prebook.

You either need to print out a voucher to give to the driver or if you have a smart phone, you can store the vouchers in your phone. On iPhones, Viator has their own app, from which you can transfer the vouchers to the Apple Wallet app.

BTW, Viator will let you book walking tours, day trips, food or wine tasting tours. They charge about the same as you'd pay if you went to the tour operator's site directly.

One of the trips I did out of Florence was to go to Pisa, see the tower and the Duomo there and then go to Siena, for lunch. I think they also stopped in San Gmignano as well. The nice thing was that you could do that in one tour, one day, since the coach took you to both Pisa and Siena, which are in completely different directions from Siena.

Sorry for my typo--I meant to type "I CAN'T imagine needing a tour" of the Cappuccine Crypt. It is small and self-explanatory, with some didactic panels that will share all you need to know.

For a first-time and only visit to Venice, your B&B location is perfectly fine.

For me, after an overnight flight, with two people, and 1.5 km from Termini, I would be grabbing an official taxi from the airport directly to the convent.

The decision of Lucca/Pisa versus Siena. . . Lucca is a quaint town (not on a hill, but you can walk the walls) that can be combined in one day with a visit to Pisa (not on a hill). There's more to see in Pisa than just the tower, but the sights might not interest your husband. Siena is a quaint town on a hill with views across Tuscany from the edge of town and top of any towers you may choose to ascend. All three have museums/churches to visit. The physical location of Siena on a hill makes it more unlike the other cities you will visit--you will get more of the feeling of the Tuscany you see in photographs in Siena. But if you personally feel you MUST see the tower in Pisa and this is you only trip . . . really, the choice is yours.

Here's a map to the rione (districts/neighborhoods) of Rome. I like it because it is an actual map showing streets so you can pinpoint your locations. One reason it may be difficult to be sure when you are researching is the irregular borders. Also the fact that you are staying quite close to Trinita dei Monti might make you think it was Monti.
https://www.wanderingitaly.com/maps/rome.html

>>>You can check and book shuttle on sites like viator.com. <<<

Viator is a reseller so you would be going through a 3rd party. I would book directly with the actual company offering the service whether it's a tour or a shuttle.

Taxis from the airport are a set fee of 48€ (including luggage) so any shuttle price will be within a few euro as they have to compete with that price. There are plenty of shuttle services that aren't shared shuttles that will cost around that price (I paid 40€ last trip from Rome to the airport).

>>>For me, after an overnight flight, with two people, and 1.5 km from Termini, I would be grabbing an official taxi from the airport directly to the convent.<<<

I usually take public transport into the city and private back to the airport (those early departures!) unless other people are traveling with me. I'm familiar with Rome and their transport so that makes a big difference than someone new to a city. If a few other people are with me, it's cheaper to take a taxi than train costs for multiple people plus bus or taxi from termini. Just make sure you take an official Comune di Roma taxi, not a private taxi or a Fiumicino taxi (which can charge more since they are allowed to do so to return to Fiumicino).

Taxi - Aeroporti di Roma

Yes like scrib says you can do all three Lucca, Pisa and Siena on a group tour but then you have little time on your own in each place - I'd rather do one for a whole day though as said if just wanting to see Leaning Tower Lucca and Tower could be combined. Easy peasy by train - Lucca and then to Pisa S Rossore station which is a short walk from the tower. And then from it back to Florence.

Thanks, SCRB11! I will look into Viator. Especially like the tour suggestion for Pisa, Siena and San Gimignano. Will let everyone know how it all turns out.

I have been to the Catacombs di Priscila. I can't imagine needing to pay $174 for a tour for this location. As I recall, there are tours at certain times, the sister who took us around pointed out the different frescoes and their meanings. We took a taxi to the door. Afterward, we walked down the hill from the Catacombs to the Piazza Vescovio, about 5 minutes away. You will need to check a map but the street name is Via di Tor Fiorenza. There were several little cafes/restaurants at this piazza and we ate lunch. There were many taxis in this piazza and we took one to the Trevi Fountain, it was maybe 8 minutes away or so, and quite inexpensive of a ride.

Priscila is a much easier set of catacombs to reach and visit than the other famous catacombs out past St. John Lateran (San Giovanni Laterano). I have visited 2 of those too. Those take a long tour-bus ride to get and will take nearly a full day. I think you would get a great flavor of the catacombs by going to Priscila, and no need to also get to Basilica of San Nicola in Carcere in addition. Truthfully, San Nicola is not really an A-list site that people going to Rome only once should necessarily include.

If you tell us what KIND of churches you'd love to see, we could give you a few ideas of which ones to see. For example are you looking for as old as possible? Gothic? Renaissaince? Baroque? Lots of mosaic?

One suggestion for you if you don't travel a lot--when you arrive at your lodgings, always take a business card of the lodgings and show it to your driver to get back home again afterward.

I truly appreciate all this wonderful advice. Will definitely NOT take the Catacombs tour and WILL take the hotel's business cards with us-- what a great idea that I should have thought of. Still trying to decide about the day trip from Florence but am leaning to NOT going to Pisa. Thanks again!

Sorry to bother you again, but what do you tho k of a 4-hour Eco Tour on which we would travel in golf carts around many, many sites. This is provided by Angel Tours.

Linnielou--I'm not familiar with that tour. You mentioned some other tours you are already going on, so if it were me, I'd want some slow meander time. Take a taxi or bus to Piazza Navona, see some of the churches near there, the fountains. But we all travel differently. And maybe the carts would your time more palatable for your spouse. There's something to be said for marital harmony.

Pisa Cenrale to Siena takes 1 h 45 min on train with one change so yes hard to do both justice in just one day.