10 days in Paris. too long? where else with a 4 year old?
 

We're going to Paris in November with our 4year old. I'll be 6mos pregnant too....was planning on being in Paris for the entire trip, but now thinking maybe we should split it up. We live in NYC so thinking of getting out of the city for a short spell. Where else would you suggest we go? To the south or somewhere in the country? I think we'd prefer to take a train. thank you!

I would stay in Paris the whole time, but take day trips to Versailles, Giverny, and Chartres. We took a combined tour to Versailles and Giverny, but I think we'd do it ourselves on the train next time. We really enjoyed the train ride to Chartres, which leaves from Gare Montparnasse.

Sandy

I second the trips to Versailles and Chartres. Spend a full day in both places. Chartres is a nice place to wander around and your 4 year old will enjoy taking the tourist "train" departing from in front of the Cathedral.

Of all the cities I have been in, Paris has the most entrancing parks and public spaces. I realize November is not optimal for outdoor activities, but dress warm as you would for New York Novembers and give your child a chance to run around like crazy in the beautiful parks and watch the boats ply the Seine.

One excellent indoor venue is the Jardin de Plantes, which has multiple buildings and is defintely worth more than one trip to enjoy the exhibits and the greenhouses (which are toasty in cold weather).

In November, the lines should not be too long for a trip up the Eiffel Tower.

If you really feel up for a trip beyond, consider going to Brugge, which is largely traffic free and has swans and horses, waffles and chocolate. And is extremely picturesque.

I would plan a minimum of activities and build maximum flexibility into your days.

PS: You should check out the possibility of perhaps doing a bit of pony riding or a carriage ride through the Bois de Bolougne, and other activities there.

Hi Rebecca,

Stay in Paris. I lived in Paris last year with a 3 and a 4 year old and we were never bored. There are literally parks everywhere - with really cool playground equipment that you don't see in the states. My 4 year old loved the "zip lines", spider web climbing structures and large slides (esp. the dragon slide in the Parc de Gillete). They also liked walking along the Seine and playing in the huge sandbox adjacent to the Notre Dame. I buddled them up and the cold didn't seem to bother them.

We visited all the major museums. The museum bookstores sell guides for children that really bring the art to life. The series is called "My Little Louvre", "My Little Orsay", etc. They are translated in English and cost about 10 euros. I purchased the guides ahead of time, read them to my children, and the kids had a treasure hunt trying to find the artwork from the book in each museum. With these books and some crayons to draw with when they needed a break, we had a blast. And, I was worried that they were too young to enjoy the museums.

Their favorite parks were the Luxembourg Gardens, the play areas in the Tuilleries, the Jardin d' Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne, and Parc d' Gillete with the kids museum. They also loved climbing up the Arc de Triomphe, the Notre Dame, and Sacre Cour (although you might not like all this climbing being six months pregnant :). The Eiffel Tower was a real thrill, and no lines in November to go up it.

We also took a few trips outside of town, but these were not real hits. We visited Versailles, but the palace with the emphasis on furnishings didn't really intrigue them. They liked running around the gardens, but they also liked running around the gardens in Paris. Eurodisney was a big bust - the lines were really long and my 3 year old didn't understand why he had to wait in line for 60 minutes to ride the Merry Go Round when in Paris he could jump on one outside many metro stops and in the parks with no wait. We traveled overnight to Venice by train and they loved sleeping on the train, but it was pouring in Venice and not much fun to walk around in the freezing rain.

I could go on and on...you will have a fabulous time in Paris - its an incredible experience through the eyes of a child. - C

My wife and I stayed in Paris for 15 days.

A few years later and we already miss it.

You might want to read my trip report (Art, Culture and Jim Morrison)

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34823211

Thanks All! We'll stay in Paris. It was our original plan, just got a little distracted by a France guide book. I think Paris is the most beautiful city and sort of think 10 days won't be enough. Love the ideas given. I've always wanted to go to Bruges...how long do you think that takes? We could even do an overnight. I think we're renting an apartment.

We stayed a week in Paris(7 nights) in Belgium(2 nights) and in Amsterdam(2 nights) with our 3 and 1 year old this past summer. In hindsight, we might have just done 10 days or so in Paris (apartment). The kids were more settled in one place and there is just SO much to do with children there! Take a day trip to Versailles, Disneyland, Chartes and spend the rest of your time exploring Paris and it's wonderful parks. If you're interested, my trip report is here and may give you some ideas:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34836796

John

Sorry but with a 4 year old and you going to 6 months pregant I would not stay in Paris for the whole. Yes Paris has lovely sights to see but it is as you say a big city just like New York and you ( and your 4 year old) will get very tired rushing around to see all everything. The time of year you will be going will also means lots of Xmas shoppers in the City etc. Yes you'll get to se the good side of that like shops decorated and it is magical doing the Seine boat trip in the early evening when dark with everthing lite op. BUT I thnk you should spilt the trip so your trip is in a more relaxing place out side of the city. You will also get a good feel for real France outside of the Big city. It is fine doing all those day trips suggested if you were not 6 months pregnant.

Regarding Brugge, there was a previous thread giving advice about timing:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34757235

I really should slow down when typing. What i meant to say was make the second half of your trip outside of paris so you can relaxe a bit and recover from all of the mad pace of a large city.

This is my 3rd trip to Paris...first with the family, so I'm more there for the great winter food and to see how my daughter sees Paris. My husband is more the type to run and try to see everything. I'm hoping having our daughter will slow us down. There's a lot for the 2 of them to do, if I want to relax a bit more. I think if it were not winter, we'd split it between the country (and a pool) or the coast, but winter should be lovely.
I so appreciate the feedback!

Add the Parc Monceau to your list.

We traveled with our daughter when she had JUST turned 3 to Hawaii... What I remember was in the second week to work around her routine. Seeing things in the morning and nap in the afternoons with cartoons made things more normal for our toddler. Now she is bummed out that we took her to Hawaii when she was 3. Oh well!

Author: rebeccaG
Date: 09/23/2006, 03:40 pm
This is my 3rd trip to Paris...first with the family, so I'm more there for the great winter food and to see how my daughter sees Paris. My husband is more the type to run and try to see everything. I'm hoping having our daughter will slow us down. There's a lot for the 2 of them to do, if I want to relax a bit more. I think if it were not winter, we'd split it between the country (and a pool) or the coast, but winter should be lovely.
I so appreciate the feedback

I see so it is not just a case of a pregnant women and her other half with a 4 year old child trying to run around to see everything. Then as long as you take it fine then you should be Ok.

Hi R,

I also recommend staying in Paris with a couple of daytrips.

>'ve always wanted to go to Bruges...how long do you think that takes? We could even do an overnight.<

See www.voyages-sncf.com for train schedules and tickets.

((I))

I have been there several times (once w/my now 4 year old) & are returning this Spring. We plan to also travel through the Champagne region & to Strasburg (to fix my wifes' Germany fetish). You can find plenty to do in Paris, we discover new things everytime we go. This trip, we'll have 4 & 2 year old(s). Don't miss the zoo & merry-go-rounds. You may also want to check out "Fodors: 68 Things to do around Paris w/Kids", or some such thing. It is really quite helpful.

I was not pregnant with child when I visited Paris, but I do think that 10 days is a good amount of time. I remember feeling pretty good at 6 months, but after a long trip over the pond and a 4 year old to keep track of you will probably want to take your time. I personally think going during the shoulder season and seeing Paris through the eyes of your child would be so awesome. You are fortunate to have this opportunity. Enjoy1

Paris is fantastic with kids - the Tuillieries and Luxembourg Gardens have terrific playgrounds. (The Tuilleries even has trampolines!) Don't skip Disneyland Paris; the parks are beautiful. Disney Studios (the "other" park that is there) has cool shows/movies, which may be appealing since you won't be up for thrill rides. DO NOT SKIP DISNEYLAND PARIS. You may want to consider even staying three nights or so at DLP. (That would give you a full week in Paris to rent a flat.) One of the hotels actually has rooms overlooking Main Street!

Rent a flat in Paris. See things in the morning. Come back to the flat after lunch for nappy time (for the both of you). Hit the playgrounds in the "after school" hours so there will be other kids to play with.

And yes, kids love to climb whatever can be climbed!

I have to say, if I'm w/my children in Paris, why on earth would I want to go to Disneyland ?!? Particularly w/a 4 yr. old, & 6 months pregnant ?

Ummmm, because a 4 year old might enjoy a day in Disneyland with his/her parents? Am I missing something?

I'll defer to the OP, but I doubt that tromping around a theme park while 6 months pregnant would constitute much of a vacation. From a practical standpoint, the one in Orlando is superior anyway (from all accounts that I have encountered, & if you like that sort of thing). My daughter (also 4) would likely prefer to go to the zoo, ride every merry-go-round we can find, eat crepes & chase little wooden boats around the small pools in the Tuillieries. I would suggest that they take advantage of exposing their child to new things, cultures, etc., than visiting Mickey Mouse...

Disneyland Paris is not in the United States. Fewer than 5% of the guests are from the US. At DLP you are surrounded by French families, German families, British families, Spanish families, etc., etc. It is quite interesting to see how folks from different countries relate to their kids. When we went to DLP, it was like a vacation from our vacation...by my count, our trip included 6 museums and more churches than I can count...why not a theme park, too?

Missypie,

I forgot about the awesome trampolines in the Tuilleries. A real hit with my kids.

I have to respectfully disagree with you about EuroDisney. We took my 4 year old there for his 5th birthday, thinking that it would be a nice break from the city and a memorable birthday.

It was expensive, crowded, and the park was very small compared to the States. My 3 and then, 5 year old were begging us to leave after 2 hours. The rides at their ages were nothing special and the the lines were long - 90 minutes to ride the merry go round mid-week in October. I begged them to stay for another 2 hours thinking that "I paid so much money to get into this park, we're going to give it a try. And, its Disney...what kid doesn't like Disney."

I guess Disney doesn't compare to the Paris playgrounds (esp. the cool tramps and huge dragon slide in the Park Gillete) or the rides at the Jardin d'Acclimitation for a fraction of the price. Or, going up the Eiffel Tower, climbing a "spooky stairway" to the top of Sacre Cour, or chasing boats at the Luxembourg gardens, etc. Like SanParis, there is so much to do in Paris for young kids to do in Paris why waste a day of your time at a poor imitiation of a US theme park.

That being said, many of my friends are "Disney fanactics" and if you are one, you'll probably love EuroDisney. Otherwise, I'd say skip it.

We're talking about A DAY at Disneyland with your child here, that's all. It's hard for me to believe that anyone would suggest NOT doing this! Jeez, yeah, that day the culture and beauty of Paris will be sucked from their minds because of the "american style" fun their having at Disney.

My kids loved every Eureopean city we visited this summer, and loved their day at Disney. I'd imagine for most, the experience would be similar since Disneyland Paris is, in fact, where many French people (gasp) actually take their kids for some fun too.

We'll probably skip Disney - even though a 5 year old friend highly recommended it. But we may go to Disney in Orlando in October (husband has a job there and we'll get free room and tickets). For a longer stay, we would probably try it. I think we're going to do one day trip to Chanilly. My daughter likes horses and trains. I'm trying to finalize our apartment. have been driving myself crazy with this...keep looking, researching, second guessing. This is the place I like the most http://www.vrbo.com/36071 but there's no elevator. I live in a walk up now, so it's not a deal breaker, but it keeps me looking. Once this is booked, I can start relaxing. Until it's time to pack!

Rebecca, what area of Paris are you staying in? There are carousels throughout the city and many of the playgrounds have kiddie rides as well. We used these a lot to take little breaks during the day.

Also, plan an afternoon at the Luxembourg Gardens. The playground is worth the small admission price and they have a ride there that our 3 year old just loved - it's sort of an old fashioned catch-the-ring type carousel.

Also, a museum tip; the Louvre will allow you to enter with a stroller ahead of the security line. We didn't even have to ask. A guard saw us waiting and brought us right to the front.

John

Hey John,

No one is saying that a visit to EuroDisney will "that the culture and beauty of Paris will be sucked from their minds because of the "american style" fun their having at Disney. "

I replied to the OP because I have kids the same age that did not have a good time. The area for rides for little kids there is really small (smaller than the 6 Flags near my home in Denver) and was overcrowded when I was there in the off-season. It might have worked out if my kids were older (8+) and could ride the coasters, etc.

Actually, in hindsight, I was foolish to even take them there. I had young kids happy to ride the carousel and cars outside of the republic metro for 1 euro. EuroDisney was just too much for my 3 and just turned 5 year old.

ParisEscapes,

I wasn't really responding specifically to your post, more to the other poster before you.
Every child on any given day is so different. My 3 year old loved the museums, playgrounds, parks, and carousels of Paris and loved the day we spent at Disneyland Paris, although on a different day, in a different mood, who knows?

I actually wouldn't think of taking a child that age to Orlando just because so much (everything outside Magic Kingdom) is geared toward older kids. I actually found the opposite of what you said in Disneyland Paris, that there was a decent amount for us to do (we had our one year old with us too). They enjoyed The Lion King show, Alice's maze, Small World, The little train through all the fairy tales, the parade, etc.

It really depends on so many thigns I guess. Crowds, weather, moods, etc.

I actually hate that Disney here in the US is a vacation destination in of itself. In Paris (we've been there twice, DP included) I like it because it's just a day trip from your "real" vacation.

Hey John,

Cool. I hear you about the mood swings of the under 5 set :)

It is really convenient to Paris. I lived there and was thinking about buying a season pass. Good thing I tested it out first:) Glad you had a better experience than me. - C

You lived there? Ugh, I hate you now.

:-)

Seriously though, maybe on a less crowded day you might have enjoyed it more.

I think we're staying in the Marais. We're looking at this and the 6th. The parks look great. We'll be sure to be at Luxembourg on a Wed. when the scholchildren will be there. We're taking our daughter out of school for 5 days so she'll want to play with other kids.
ParisEscapes, what were you kids favorite things to eat? my daughter is a good eater, just curious what sort of things other kids most enjoyed.
thanks!

We stayed in the 6th and loved it. Walking distance to Luxembourg and we also frequented a cute little playground across from Le Bon Marche.

Our one year old is a great eater and ate anything we had on our table in restaurants. Our three year old is fussy though, but most restaurants have at least one simple chicken or beef dish that was fine for him. He ate a lot of frites too. :-)

ParisEscapes, just wondering if you have taken your child to any US Disney parks yet. I agree with your statement that lots of people take their kids to Disney parks way too young. I know a guy who is taking is 3 year old and his 18 month old next month...there is so little that they will be able to do with the 18 month old!

If I were you, I'd gather info on Disneyland Paris before you leave, to have in the back of your mind, "just in case" (how to get there, opening and closing times, etc.) That way, if your child and/or all of you just need a break from Pairs, you can go on the spur of the moment. One thing though: If you go, downplay the Characters (the autograph thing) to your child; at DLP, they do NOT queue for character autographs - it's a mob scene - and the "mean" characters (e.g. the Queen of Hearts) actually act mean! (See, it ISN'T just like in the US.)

As for restaurants, while in Paris, we went to two "family friendly" restaurants that had been listed in one of the guide books. We liked one and disliked the other.

We didn't like the food at Hippopotamus, although the decor was neat ("portraits" of hippos in all kinds of costumes - king, priest, etc.) and they had the coolest balloons ever. However, the food was like eating at Denny's, but paying $80 for the privilege. Bistro Romaine (a chain) had decent food (not gourmet, but definitely pretty good) and was, as advertised, family friendly.

One thing that was funny was that the "kids meals" all came with a huge pile of green beans instead of a huge pile of fries...healthier certainly, but it looks sort of the same on the plate, only green.

Before you encounter the situation, tell your 4 year old that you will buy crepes ONLY from vendors who make them fresh. Teach him/her to be discriminating and you'll avoid any little scenes in front of crepe stands that you know to be inferior. (But by all means, eat lots of crepes!)

Please teach your 4 year old a few phrases in French - hello, goodbye, please, thank you, and "I would like..." Even the gruffest waiters wamred up when my little one ordered her food in French. Your 4 year old will get SUCH positive strokes for using a bit of French.

Just to clarify, I am very much "anti-Disney" anything, regardless of the location, so I am somewhat biased. But in Paris ? With all there is to do there ? No way. Thanks ParisEscapes for the clarification also. I know in the states, a four year old would not likely be big enough to do many things, ride rides, etc. I guess my children may well be deficient in the 'Disney experience', oh well.

Rebecca,

Regarding food, my boys (3 and 4 1/2 at the time) are picky eaters and I was a bit worried, but we had no trouble eating well in Paris.

They loved going to cafes for breakfast and having a croissant or bread and butter with a cup of hot chocolate. Hot chocolate was a real thrill - served in with a real cup and saucer and with a spoon to add your own sugar since it was unsweetened. It made me realize how dependent we are on cups with straws in the US. If they had their choice, we would have ate breakfast in a cafe everyday.

For lunch, we would pick up something on the go. Crepes were their favorite food and always available outside museums or parks that we hung out in. They also liked the big waffles sold at the Crepe stands. Yes, there are some crepe stands that are better than others, but I wasn't concerned about them eating pre-made crepes - I don't think they could tell the difference. They preferred crepes from the stands than in cafes - they liked being able to walk around and eat the crepes from the cardboard containers instead of using a knife and fork.

When we took my daughter (she was about 1 1/2 years old) & she got out of sorts, we would just stop & buy her a baguette. She would gnaw on that, contented for some time. She also likes crepes, croissants & pomme frites, of course..

Rebecca,

Regarding food, my boys (3 and 4 1/2 at the time) are picky eaters and I was a bit worried, but we had no trouble eating well in Paris.

They loved going to cafes for breakfast and having a croissant or bread and butter with a cup of hot chocolate. Hot chocolate was a real thrill - served in with a real cup and saucer and with a spoon to add your own sugar since it was unsweetened. It made me realize how dependent we are on cups with straws in the US. If they had their choice, we would have ate breakfast in a cafe everyday.

For lunch, we would pick up something on the go. Crepes were their favorite food and always available outside museums or parks that we hung out in. They also liked the big waffles sold at the Crepe stands. Yes, there are some crepe stands that are better than others, but I wasn't concerned about them eating pre-made crepes - I don't think they could tell the difference. They preferred crepes from the stands than in cafes - they liked being able to walk around and eat the crepes from the cardboard containers instead of using a knife and fork.

Cafes - We would pick up light meals in cafes. We'd order a side of French Fries to share, or a fruit and cheese plate (I'd eat the exotic cheeses, they'd eat some cheese and the grapes), or a croque monsier (like a grilled cheese), or I'd split a sandwiche between them. We'd usually sit outside. I'd people watch and they would car/bus watch:).

Regarding restaurants, I didn't take them to any besides some local italian places near our apt., chains like Leon Bruxelles, Pinto Pizza and Hippotamus - all with kids menus. Since you've been to Paris before, you know that most of the restaurants discussed on this board aren't appropriate for kids. At least, not my kids, and truthfully I really didn't see any young kids at the finer dining establishments.

A funny anecdote: When we arrived in Paris, I asked my landlady for restaurant recommendation, she repeated about three times, "you know you can't take kids there, right." She had heard that "Americans take their kids everywhere" and wanted me to be sure I knew that this wasn't the case in Paris. She was also really freaked out that pre-school was optional in the States. And, my kids were actually questioned in the playgrounds a few times by the truant officers about why they were't in school (but, I'm getting off-topic)...

My kids favorite restaurant was the Hippotamus. I ate at around 6 different Hippotamus' around Paris. Our favorite was at the Bastille across from the Opera House. Recently remodeled, it had white leather armchairs, glass tables, candlelight, large windows looking across the street at the Opera, very adult decor, but the best part was the large flat panel tvs on the wall showing "Dora the Explorer".

The food was pretty good and consistent. More like an "Outback Steakhouse" than a "Denny's". We went for the kids, because it had a great kids meal (7.5 euros for a drink, entree (nussets poulet - chicken nuggets, burger, and huge chocolate mousse dessert, and a drink), awesome large coloring book with colored pencils, incredible large balloons that stayed "up" for about a week, and a handful of candy when you left. Also, the place is louder than most restaurants and so I was relaxed about my kids talking in their "normal" voices. Dinner is still a 2-3 hour event there, but at least its a more comfortable environment for everyone.

If I was traveling without kids, there is probably no chance that I'd pick a Hippopotamus for lunch/dinner, but it amazed me how many Parisians/sans kids, especially men in suits for a business lunch, went there. My husbands take on it is that its good, not great, food with 3 course fix price meals for 18 euros. We could eat dinner for 4 with kir royale appetifs, a bottle of decent wine, and dessert for around 80euros. Expensive - but cheaper than other places for the quantity of food/drink.

We didn't eat at any McDonalds while we were there. Not because I have anything against that, but to eat "fast," my kids would pick going into a bakery and buying a croissant or baguette, or picking up fruit to eat while walking in a market, or buying some cheese at a fromagerie and eating that. They just didn't want to go there - unfortunately, that's not the case when we want a quick meal in the States.

Wow - this is a long post. I think you'll have a great trip. - C

One more thing - I lived in the 3rd in the Marais. Great area - rents are cheaper, walking distance to cafes, etc. off the beaten-track, and tons of kids. I was told that more children live in that area than the 6th. I definitely got more apartment for my money in the Marais.

Just to add to the restaurant discussion, a child-friendly alternative to Hippopotamus is Bistro Romain (there are a few in Paris). They have children's menus and the food was pretty good.

Also, if you visit The Louvre, have lunch there at their "cafeteria." Great food and they even have high chairs (a rarity in Paris restaurants).

Oh, which reminds me, another tip: bring a portable high chair. We have one that folds up very small (the seat is actually self-inflating) and it straps to any chair. People always stop and ask us about it - it's a great travel item!