10 Days in Paris in June
 

So I went to Paris this past June. I'm well into double digits for my number of trips now. I go to Paris just to be in Paris. It's my thing. I don't care much what I do as long as I eat well. And catch up on my sleep. I've been to Paris in Dec, Jan, March, April, May, July, and August. This was my first June trip. I travel alone by choice, I don't want to be anyone's tour guide. I speak decent French (but can't spell or write in French to save my life). I usually try to do at least one thing I've never done before. My hood is St Germain de Pres. When I was a Paris newbie I stayed in other hoods, but I like the rue de Buci area the best. I like being close to the Louvre, and the Seine, and the good metro connections. I never ride the bus, they make me sick. I tend to do many of the same things over and over again. I'm sure it's a sign of mental illness, and I'm fine with that.

DAY 1
Arrived at CDG via United Econ Plus seat, uneventful flight, skipped baggage claim, went to taxi line, well there was no line. Arrived at Hotel Le Regent, 61 rue Dauphine, I think it was about 10 am or so, room not ready, drop bag off, head to Relais Odeon for un cafe creme. It's raining. I sit and drink my coffee, which comes with a cookie, I throw the cookie in my purse for later, order another coffee, repeat cookie action.

Back at the hotel my room is ready. I ALWAYS book a room with a courtyard view because I like to sleep. I'm on the 3rd floor, my room is the cheapest which of course means it is the size of a closet, but it has everything I need and the bed is comfortable.

I freshen up and then head to the Cafe Marly. I order a crab and avocado salad, and two glasses of Sancerre blanc. The food is good, the wine is better, and the waiters are spectacular. The view isn't too shabby either.

I give in to being tired and head back to the hotel. I can never sleep in coach, so this is to be expected. I wake up at 11 pm, freshen up, and walk to Au Pied du Cochon. It is very lively. I order a 1/2 bout of Champagne, 6 escagot, and lobster. All fabulous. Sitting next to me is a young couple from Australia. We chat quite a bit. At one point I look up and notice the resto is completely packed to the gills, standing room only. What did I miss, free champagne or something? I ask the waiter what is going on. He says Johnny Holliday is in the building. I think I spot him but I'm not sure. He has quite the entourage for realz. I ask the Australian couple if they are here for the Fete de la Musique, but they don't even know what it is.

I leave about 3 am. Walking back by the Louvre two young guys are speaking loudly in English about a drug deal gone bad. I mind my own business of course, head back to the hotel and crash.

Hmmmm, this is going to be interesting if it already has drug deals gone bad. :-)

How much was your taxi fare from CDG to your hotel? I read it should be about 50E depending on traffic, etc. We leave tonight for Paris (our first trip). Debating between taking the AF shuttle bus or a taxi. Leaning toward the taxi. At our ages, I'm willing to spend a bit more money for comfort & convenience. Definitely not doing the RER. I'll check in again before we leave. I agree with Kerouac, your trip sounds interesting :-) We'll stay away from the Louvre at 3AM! I like your writing style!

Taxis will be more expensive on a Sunday.

Hi Ruedebuci, really love that name. Looking forward to reading more about your solo jaunt to Paris.

I recently returned from a few days there myself. Stayed at the Hotel Dauphine nearby – so convenient. Haven’t we crossed paths on this forum before?

Continue to enjoy – I will be checking back…

My favorite line in your report-----"I go to Paris just to be in Paris"-----perfect! Just how we feel.

kerouac, can you estimate how much more expensive?
Thanks!

Can't wait to hear more...Sancerre sounds tres bien right about now. Looking forward to Rome, but continue to pine for Paris!

The G7 taxi fare calculator is a useful tool, even if it generally underestimates.

http://www.taxisg7.fr/estimation-tarif-duree-course

Can't wait to read more:)

More of this would be very good!

I am anxiously awaiting the rest of the trip report!

Thanks for reading and commenting all. latedaytraveler I'm not sure if we've crossed paths before?

DAY 2

I'm up by 9 am and hoping to get to Notre Dame by 10. I take a quick shower and rush out the door. I go directly across the street to Cafe Buci, and order a cafe creme at the bar. A Frenchman drinking a pint starts chatting me up. He looks to be about 25. He is quite attractive. I'm no where near 25 but I don't let that bother me. He offers to buy me a shot of vodka. I politely decline. I'm barely awake yet, haven't had breakfast, vodka probably is not a good idea. I'm going to call this guy Jean, but that is not his name. He persists, I try to explain that vodka before breakfast might make me barf, and I rub my stomach. Jean doesn't seem to understand my fractured French, so he lifts up his shirt, pats his bare stomach, and says "I'm fat too, lets drink!" At this point the bartenders are laughing at our exchange. I give up, oh what the hell, if I barf on Jean it's not my fault. The shot of vodka hits my empty stomach like a brick, but I somehow manage to keep it down. There is no way I can down another shot, so I bid my new friend good-bye, and head out to the street.

I arrive at Notre Dame about a quarter past 10. Mass has already started, so I stand in the aisle. Btw, the only time I attend church is when I'm in Paris. It's just a thing I do, in honor of my deceased grandmothers all of whom were devout Catholics. My favorite part of the service is smelling the incense.

DAY 2 - continued

After the service I wander around the back of Notre Dame, it is a lovely day, no rain. There is some sort of artistic exhibition going on which I enjoy. I notice there are only 2 people standing in line at the Deportation memorial, so I figure why not? I've been before, but that was years ago. After paying my respects, I realize that I'm hungry.

I stop for a good long while on the Pont St Louis and listen to a jazz band. With my stomach rumbling I finally go searching for food. I cross the Pont Philippe, walk up a small pedestrian street and notice a cafe offering brunch. I ponder ordering brunch, but determine that is too much food for me to eat, and settle on a crepe with jambon, fromage, and tomatoes. I enjoy my crepe while listening to the church bells of St Gervais.

After my "brunch" I'm tired. I had many months of work related stress, and coming to Paris was my chance to breathe, sleep, and recharge. So I go back to the hotel to sleep.

I wake up at 10 pm. Totally refreshed, and hungry again. I have a good friend, who has only been to Paris once, who always talks about her favorite meal at Entrecote. Now I like steak frites so I figure why not go there? I knew ahead of time that is all that they serve. Not a problem.

With my mouth watering at the thought of steak with bearnaise sauce, I am seated right away. (Do you know where I am going with this?) Now I absolutely love bearnaise sauce, the steak is a mere afterthought. Sigh. What I did NOT know about Entrecote is that they have their own "special" sauce. I wrongly assumed, and I swear to Gucci that I read this somewhere, that I would have my choice of steak sauce. I don't mean to offend anyone who likes place, but their special sauce was disgusting. Barfola. Allright, so the fries are nice and crispy. On my fries I like either ketchup, garlic mayo, or even ranch dressing would be acceptable. Where's the ketchup? I inquire. Sorry, no ketchup. What the what? Entrecote has a "special" mustard they put on their fries. What sort of crackhead came up with that combination??? Mustard on fries? Again, what the what?? Sigh. Now I've had hundreds of meals in Paris over the years, and I must say Entrecote was the most disappointing meal EVAH. Hmmpft.

I leave, wander around enjoying the beautiful night. I end up at Cafe de Flore, where I order St Emillion. I watch the world go by. After another glass of wine for the road, I go back to the hotel and crash.

Rue, this is hilarious. Mustard on fries....interesting. Thanks for sharing. More please.

More pf this would be even better! Fun report. Pleasekeep it up!

most enchanting trip report from Paris. More please.

I love this! Can't wait for more.

Hi RuedeBuci, love this report.

“and I must say Entrecote was the most disappointing meal EVAH. Hmmpft.”

I am not a foodie, but I did consider trying one of these places – glad I didn’t.

Also related to what you said about Notre Dame and the churches in France – I lit a candle at many during my recent trip – tradition, eh?

Look forward to more….

Mustard was the only condiment that the French used on their fries when I first arrived in France. Then they moved on to mayonnaise from Belgian/Dutch influence. Of course, the fast food places ended up making ketchup popular with children since they will put sugar on anything.

Well, am feeling so much better that I have never made it to Entrecôte (I also thought you had a choice of sauces there, as weel).

I guess the French, would be appalled by the use of ketchup on fries...but I am with you mustard just doesn't sound right. (although, I have a ridiculous French fry hierarchy that determines whether I so salt only or with ketchup, so what does that say about me?)!

I am impressed with the ability to even consider a shot first thing on an empty stomach! But, I do think a little buzz at church, might encourage more of us sinners to attend services more often! :-)

Looking forward to more and really beginning to struggle with no Paris this year!

Loving your report! I too go to Paris just to be in Paris, love that line!

For the philistines:
We enjoyed our lunch at Entrecote, the one on the left bank, when we stumbled upon it last trip in 2009. Great service. Love the green sauce with the steak and fries cooked in lard. Don't remember mustard on them but I will eat most anything with mustard.
Zagat gives it a good review as well,with a good rating for both food and service.
We are going back in a month.

OK, RJD, I'll admit that we enjoyed Entrecote also, although MDH has his steak with no sauce. It's sort of our "we got in late, we're tired, and we just want a quick meal" place. They've been serving the same dish for 150 years and there is always a line to get in, so obviously someone is eating there.

ruedebuci----I laughed out loud at your morning vodka story. I would imagine that your adventuresome spirit allows for an interesting life. Can't wait for the next installment.

I'm really liking your report - not having an agenda in Paris is a beautiful thing.

A shot of vodka before mass - you know, that's not a bad idea. ;-)

I light a candle for my grandmother in churches even though she died more than 20 years ago and I don't believe in any of that stuff. One of the best lessons that she taught me was that I am allowed to put only half of the posted price in the collection box for the candle.

Lol kerouac. You are going to hell!

kerouac, love you and your grandmother!

Kerouac, perhaps, after all of these years, your grandmother is only receiving half the benefit (whatever that is!)

I love the trip report, a little Hunter Thomson in your style :)

I was just checking reviews on the Hotel i booked for next April and it says:

On our arrival, the Philippe at reception was friendly and funny to joke with (though some jetlagged visitors don't get his humour!). He was helpful and helped us out with a lunch recommendation for best steak frites (go to L'Entrecote just around the corner: it's delicious!).

To each their own I suppose, looking forward to more.

Thanks for reading everyone!

DAY 3

I woke up quite early for me, especially for being on vacation. I went across the street again to Le Buci for coffee, but my friend Jean was not there so no shot of vodka for breakfast. I remembered a cafe from a couple years back that serves American style breakfast, Cafe Parisian on rue Princesse, so I headed over there and it was closed! Too early? So then I went to Cafe Mairie across from ST Sulpice but the service was extremely slow (and the place was not at all busy) so I left and went to the Flore. At the Flore I ordered more coffee, OJ, and a ham and cheese omlette.

After my satisfying breakfast I went to LV across from the St Germain church and bought a fabulous pair of sunglasses. Yes I splurged, but I'm worth it.

And then yeah my first metro ride of the trip! I have hella fun riding the metro, I know that is strange. I like being underground and I like tunnels. I always buy carnets and I had seven left over from my last trip. Got on at Odeon and got off at Champs Elysees Clemenceau. Destination the Grand Palais. Would you believe I've never been inside? I went to the Helmut Newton exhibition. It was very well done, and there was a fascinating movie playing with standing room only. I was there for a couple hours.

After the exhibition I wandered around, walked by the flagship LV store, very glad not to be standing in that long line to get in. I hate standing in lines. Like really, smart move going to the other store. I did admire the very artistic window displays.

I like hanging out in hotels that I can't afford to stay in because I buy expensive sunglasses, so I went to the George V for a snack and champagne. I totally scored an excellent table in the bar with a view of the street. I ordered finger sandwiches with foie gras, cucumber, and salmon. Not all on the same sandwich, different ones. Freakin fabulous I tell you. And then I ordered more champagne, and dessert, and dessert wine. But I don't remember what dessert I ordered, probably something chocolate. Great service, great ambiance, I need to come here more often.

Then I took the metro to the Tuileries, yeah I know I could have walked but that would have been too taxing after my refreshments. Plus I wanted to use up my metro tickets.

So I hung out in the Tuileries for awhile. Then I walked back to my hood, stopping at the Cafe Mabillon for another glass of champagne. Then I called it a night.

more please - how about days 4-10....:)

Enjoying this report so much. I too go to Paris alone and not to sight see but to enjoy the city.
Glad to see how many others go to Mass in Paris and never at home.
By the way mustard on a baked potato is fabulous.Just mustard no butter or sour cream.

I love a good, swanky hotel bar.

I like the way you travel - I'm feeling relaxed just reading your report. :-)

I love the metro too. I remember the thrill of riding the metro at16 in Moscow for the first time...

Sorry for the delay in writing my report! So if anyone is still interested...

DAY 4

I woke up early again, very strange for me. A pleasant day, walked to Breakfast in America, and enjoyed the market at Place Monge along the way. And I was there before opening! But I only had to wait 10 minutes. Me and four other people, all mouths watering, I'm sure, for a hearty American breakfast. I ordered the 2x2x2.

After a long, leisurely breakfast, I metroed to Odeon, and walked into my long-standing hair salon on rue de Buci. I always get my hair done in Paris.

With my hair looking much better, I went to Cafe de Flore for champagne. After another one for the road, I went to Pizza de Papa (also on rue de Buci)for pizza and red wine.

Then I took the metro to Cité, walked to the Lizard Lounge in the Marais for a Franglish meet-up. There were 34 of us, 17 native English speakers, and 17 native French speakers. For merely 12 euro you get one drink and two hours to practice your French (or English). How it works is you spend 7 minutes speaking in English, and 7 minutes speaking in French. It was nerve racking I tell you! My "tourist" French is quite good, but trying to speak about any number of topics, well I felt rather dumb. Yes, I will be doing this again, it will probably be on my to-do list for every trip.

Oh no it's raining! And I left my umbrella in my hotel room. #$%^&@#$%^^%^ Normally I wouldn't care, but I just got my hair done. Merde.

Metroing back to my hood, I stop in Le Buci for onion soup and Chinon. Thankfully it stopped raining eventually, and I strolled the streets before heading to bed.

Ruedebuci, glad you returned to continue describing your adventure.

Really enjoying your report. Very interesting about your visit to the Lizard Lounge to practice your French. How did you find out about this group?

How did the hair do hold up? Look forward to more...

"Yes I splurged, but I'm worth it."

LOVE it.

You are making me laugh, I'm really enjoying this report.

I'm so glad you continued writing, thanks!

The Franglish group sounds really interesting. Wish I could find something like that where I live. Sounds like a fun way to practice and sharpen your language skills.

Great fun!

I'm interested in the Franglish group. Can anybody go? Do you have to sign up ahead? Is there a web site? How did you find out about it?