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A FAREWELL FILLED WITH CHEERS
With our final zodiac cruise completed we are gathered on the bow of the Ioffe for a photo op along with an appropriate send off from one of the coldest and of course coolest places on the planet. Champagne is poured and toasts are made as we celebrate a successful expedition. It is a heart warming experience as I am reminded of the pleasant and fun international group of passengers and crew on board the Akademik Ioffe. Cheers to Brazil, Bolivia, England, India, Australia, Holland, The United States, Taiwan and a host of other countries well represented on The Blue Continent. Video: http://youtu.be/zE3s9TrXfeg |
Nice to see all those happy faces, going home now with memories they'll have forever. Thanks again for including us in the farewell. Will be sorry to see this trip report end!
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BACK ACROSS THE DRAKE
Ironically, the worst weather we encounter on our expedition happens as we set sail back to Ushuaia, Argentina. I adventure just outside my room to a passage way at the forward part of the ship for a small taste of true Antarctic ocean weather. The wind is so fierce from the right to left side of the passage way that it forces me to remain in the protected shelter of an inside hall. Occasionally, a huge spray of ocean water blasts its way from the starboard to port side of the ship. The temperature is now so cold that this causes sheets of ice to form on the deck of the Ioffe. Continuing my somewhat research exposure to the weather, I make my way from the inside to the exterior stern. As the Ioffe rolls and pitches on the high seas I am on it's starboard side when I get an exhilarating surprise. A huge wave breaks over the bow and I get drenched! Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfQ2o6yE9cM |
Giovanna,
Thanks for your kind words. It has been rewarding sharing my trip with you and others. This was a nice group to travel with and I believe it added well to my Antarctica experience :) |
That wind sounds vicious, but it didn't look all that rough.
BTW, I just saw your Bolivian Death Road video -- WOW! |
SPT,
You are right it wasn't all that rough when that video was shot but stay tuned ... |
IS THE GREAT AUK STILL EXTINCT?
With our sailing to Ushuaia well on the way, a few of us gather in the Ioffe bar for an evening of staff inspired entertainment. The fun begins with a reading of questions asked by former passengers. Although we have a few laughs at their expense, I have a feeling given the opportunity a few of us might come up with some gems of our own. I sense this by the pause in laughter and the deep thought given when we ponder one question that was asked about leaving the ship in Ushuaia. "Should I put out my luggage before or after I go to sleep?” Video: http://youtu.be/fnnl3puGGC4 |
GUESSING HEAD GAMES
How difficult can this be? I am black and white and very popular. Being in Antarctica the first thing that comes to mind is a penguin but I am wrong. What else can be black and white, real or imagined and very popular. Michael Jackson? Wrong, again! How do I find myself in this guessing predicament? Well it started with a beer and then volunteering to have a piece of paper taped to my forehead. Along with a few others, I am playing a head guessing game put together by members of the expedition staff. Another part of tonight’s entertainment. I am not feeling to bad being unable to guess my the person or thing as I watch Carlton, a British passenger struggle with his clues. “A British politician in the last 50 years that everybody would know”. Don't say the answer if you know it, he is still trying to guess it. After about fifteen or so, yes or no answers, I finally smelled a rat, well more like a mouse and got a clue who was stuck on the tip of my forehead. Ironically, I should not have thrown stones at Carlton. Can you guess? Video: http://youtu.be/ubgVAa1ghGs |
Sounds like a fun game - those with sweaty foreheads or bangs need not apply. So...who are you?
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Here is my guess: You are Mickey Mouse and your British friend is John Profumo.
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LeslieS,
No worries, there was a lot of tape :) |
Eschew,
You were half right :) Carlton never asked if the person was male or female. It was the "BIG CLUE" Do you remember, "The Iron Lady"? It was Prime Minister Magaret Thatcher. |
I thought Maggie would be the obviuos answer. I am surprised your friend didn't got it. I picked John as he is more infomus than famous, and more obsure. He was the headliner on that big sex scandal.
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Eschew,
He went down the "Male" track .... And never got on the right train :( After Churchill, Thatcher would have been my next guess. |
IT's 1AM
While most if not all of the Ioffe passengers have retired for the evening, I am wide awake and head for the bridge. The seas and weather conditions are not conducive for an outside stroll so I make my way there through the inside halls and stairwells. At this time of the night there is only a sole occupant on the bridge and I am in for a treat. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ev_6pka4MP4 |
NIGHT AT THE BRIDGE
Although it is late at night, I feel my company is immediately welcomed on the bridge of the Ioffe. As the ship steadily maneuvers the Drake Passage to Ushuaia, the First Mate and I engage in an educational and light hearted conversation. The wind is blowing about 40-50 miles an hour with the seas ranging from nine to twelve feet high. We both have a laugh that these are probably not the best conditions for some of the passengers. It is exciting to watch as a huge wave crest over the bow of the Ioffe. I am sure this is just one of many that we will encounter tonight. As the frigid sea water escapes overboard, it is hard to imagine it is the same deck we stood on just a few hours ago. Video: http://youtu.be/ovYKnrmm-NI |
When do you sleep?!?
Great videos... I'm amazed by the quality in the low light. And your comment about "sickening some passengers" -- that was exactly how I felt in seas like that: sick! |
<<Great videos... I'm amazed by the quality in the low light.>>
Agreed! Loved the film noir you added toward the end of your trip. >) |
SPT,
Usually slept through breakfast :) Actually, it was quite bright for 1am in the morning, "White Night" and the Flip camera does a nice job. $79.00 well spent. |
Giovanna,
Still a few more videos to come before it's a wrap :) |
NIGHT AT THE BRIDGE PART TWO
As the night passes the excitement of crossing the Drake Passage continues as we begin to encounter crashing waves more frequently. One wave is so huge that the spray from it's explosion on the deck reaches the windshield of the bridge which is at least 30-40 feet above sea level. Ice has also begin to form on the deck and it reminds both of us of how cold it is outside. Brrrrrrrrr, very cold. Video:http://youtu.be/CZYhQKyd3nw |
A TWELVE FOOTER
It is nothing short of spectacular to watch as a twelve foot wave crashes the bow of the Akademik Ioffe while crossing the Drake Passage. Slideshow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJcEf8IOyDg |
THE BEST DEAL
After about an hour on the bridge and holding my own in the rough seas, I am promoted from Paparazzi to Sea Wolf. To celebrate, I am offered tea along with pastries, breakfast for Sea Wolf. Not sure what all my new position involves but I am given some brief lessons in Russian. I am now almost fluent with a vocabulary of three words. Dobre utra. Having now spent an enjoyable time with a crew member along with all my other great experiences on this expedition, I am certain that of all the Ioffe passengers, I have gotten the best deal. Video: http://youtu.be/lEsmZPuI9kg |
<<Dobre utra.>>
And Good Morning to you! Congratulations on achieving Sea Wolf status. I think your fellow passengers also got a great deal, traveling with you. Based on your retelling of your trip, we'd be happy to sail with you anywhere. Thanks again for sharing your adventures with us. |
Ditto what Giovanna said.
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Giovanna, Treesa
Thanks again for your kind words. The interaction with you and others on this forum has made sharing the adventure even more fun. Retelling the story keeps the memories alive and enjoyable. Ditto, to sailing anywhere together :) |
STARBUST, A SUPER MONKEY AND A SHEIK
What do these have to do with The Blue Continent? Well, bring them all together with a Scrubber, a Sandwich, a Super Rooster, a Ship Head and you are talking about Some Shameless fun. Tonight, we have been given the challenge to come up with costumes centered around the letter “S” and except for maybe Sewage, I think the residents on Sesame Street would be proud of the creativity of this Salient Set of Sailors :) Video: http://youtu.be/X7VKCLc7HmE |
CHARADES WITH A “S”
The fun now becomes a group effort as The Sexy Slouchers, Sexy Sealers and Sh** compete for the Satisfaction of the Akademik Ioffe “S Games” Champions. Super Monkey lays out the rules of the game, words or phrases that begin with the letter “S” or has something to do with Antarctica that has to be drawn or acted out. Shagging by a Super Rooster turns out to be a lot easier than drawing “Start The Zodiac” is for a Sexy Sloucher and who would have thought a Chinstrap would cause so much fun tension. Video: http://youtu.be/FmWBUIMyLI8 |
SUMO WRESTLING
For me, the highlight of our “S” night evening is a sumo wrestling demonstration by a group of elderly gentlemen who are more that happy to share a part of their culture with us. With a good mix of passengers from all around the global this presentation is just one of the many experiences that has made this expedition a ton of fun. Video: http://youtu.be/XlKfHKCjVi4 |
AKADEMIK IOFFE MUD ROOM TOUR
Today our access to the Ioffe is broaden as we learn a little about it's history and everyday operation. Our tour begins at the point around which the ship was built. For the past week we have referred to this area as the “Mud Room” but at one time it operated as a research lab with a sophisticated sonar system. The ship was even equipped with metal sails to avoid engine noise while sonar research was in progress. Standing in the room we can hear the surging ocean waves through a six foot hole that extends to the open seas a few decks below us. Video:http://youtu.be/0IXTrGbrOyA |
AKADEMIK IOFFE BELOW DECK
Continuing our tour, we go one level below the main deck and the noise begins to increase. We are in an area where a cluster of machinery is at work helping to navigate the Ioffe along the open seas. A seldom used desalinization plant, thrust boosters and rudder system are all located here. There are even spare propellers that can be installed while the ship is at sea. Two levels lower and we are in the unbelievably clean engine room. Here, twin engines that consumes thousands of fuel a day operate in sync to move the 6500 ton Ioffe through the water. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_pCpq0LdV0 |
AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE BLUE ROOM
It is a calming and impressive effect as we enter “The Blue Room” where most of the ships electronic monitoring takes place. The calmness is broken when two technicians rapidly enter the room to diagnose a buzzing alarm. Sensing that our presence my interfere, this opportunity is taken to move to our next tour stop, the bridge. Video: http://youtu.be/UP4aCEMcYJQhttp://youtu.be/UP4aCEMcYJQ |
AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE BRIDGE
For the past week, I have spent a fair amount of time on the bridge but it is not until this trip that I get a more in depth understanding of it's operation. Here new and old technology have been combined including a simple wooden steering block that reminds the crew of the ship's desired course. Even with all the technology, it is still the eyes and experience of the crew that provides for a smooth, safe and efficient operation. We get a good explanation of the various control panels but I have a personal enlightenment when we arrive at the flag section of the bridge. Flags are an important part of a ship's communication system and can also be used on a personal level. For example, did you know there was a dating flag? Not the same as the “I surrender”, white flag or the well known “Red” flag. No, this flag is white with a blue plus sign that communicates “stop carrying out your intentions and wait for my signal”. Oh, the headaches that could be avoided if we all had to use flags! Video: http://youtu.be/s781ooLCVr4 |
AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE UPPER DECK
Our tour ends on what is now a spacious upper deck area. However, this was not always the case as this area was used for one of the three metal sails originally designed on the Ioffe. These sails allowed the ship to carry out sonar research without having to worry about engine noise interference. On the upper deck is also located the seldom used crow's nest along with a flag system that uses various shaped black metal disks to communicate with other ships. Except for little protection from the wind, the upper deck offers nice views from the Akademik Ioffe. Video: http://youtu.be/16KhZtzgbBQ |
CAPE HORN
Our return to Ushuaia will take us near the famous Cape Horn. As a part of our daily after dining chat, Damien one of the expedition leaders and a great historian gives a brief presentation on Cape Horn. Did you know Cape Horn was named after a town in Holland? I am on the bridge as we approach Cape Horn which slowly takes shape through foggy over cast gray skies. There is a lot of radio chatter with Chilean customs official who I gather are trying to find away to charge the Ioffe a fee for passing near the area. For years, this has been a disputed area between Chile and Argentina which at one time required intervention from the Pope to resolve. Smoothly sailing along, it is had to imagine the disastrous naval history of the area. Many ships have been lost here trying to navigate one of the most dangerous ocean passage. Video: http://youtu.be/sZolakI52EI |
PEALE DOLPHINS
It is a beautiful afternoon as we continue our journey north to Ushuaia and encounter a pleasant surprise. A huge school of playful Peale Dolphins have decided to be the first to welcome us back to friendly waters. Crisscrossing the bow of the Ioffe they are a delight to watch as they obviously enjoy being goodwill sea ambassadors. Video: http://youtu.be/31ICT1Wsp1c |
THE FINAL CELEBRATION
After a farewell Captain's dinner a few of us make our way to the bar for our final night aboard the Ioffe. The atmosphere is a festive one with Salsa dancing and group karaoke. It is hard to believe this dream is coming to an end but it will be remembered as one of the best trips I have ever taken. Video: http://youtu.be/-EqbE78mPys |
RETURN TO USHUAIA
Around 6am, I am initially alone on the upper deck of the Ioffe as we navigate the Beagle Channel towards Ushuaia. Although it is quite windy, the weather is beautifully welcoming as the surrounding mountains are covered with more snow than when we left. This has been an incredible journey that has bitter sweet ending. Many thanks to all who made it possible. Video: http://youtu.be/OQFIiVYCRao |
Thank you so much for all the trouble you've gone to in order to share your experience. It's been wonderful reading.
You've gotten me super-psyched for our trip in January! |
Great video of the dolphins!
Overall, wonderful trip report. It brought back a lot of memories. It was interesting that your trip, on the same ship with a different tour operator, had a lot more festivities than mine did. (Or maybe I just slept through all the parties. :-) ) |
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