Off-topic, sorry, but congrats DMBT on being the most prolific fodor's trip reporter - is it true, 77 in 2010? Does that mean 77 trips in one year? I bow down.

JOURNEY TO DECEPTION ISLAND

Returning from our first landing of the day we are welcomed back on board to a delicious brunch as the Ioffe sets sail for Deception Island.

Although there is much daylight remaining, approaching our next destination, the weather seems as different as night and day. Under mostly cloudy gray skies the sun is battling to make it's warm presence known. The temperature has fallen considerably and along with the wind howling at over 35 miles an hour it is an experience that in an odd way I am enjoying. Jim Cantore would be proud of me as I faced the forces of nature “TWC” style, slanted.

Since others are more comfortable and smarter to enjoy the views from the shelter of the bridge, initially I am alone on the on the bow of the Ioffe.

However, soon enough I am joined by one then two other brave or maybe crazy souls. Our insanity and bravery helps us as we fight the elements to experience a true bit of Antarctica.

In a conversation with one of the passengers I am told the winds are over 36 knots (about 40 miles an hour), too much for kayaking. Therefore, he's now excited to join a few of us who are insanely looking forward to doing the Polar Plunge.

In taking in the scenery I am reminded that beauty can be found in all aspects of nature. Being fortunate to experience the most remote and sometimes most hostile area on the planet in and of itself is just awesome.

A rugged landscape covered in snow and a sea that can be unforgiving gives me a profound respect for what is here. It is hard to imagine being here in winter or anytime during the 180 days without sunshine.

Russian commands over the PA snaps me out of my imaginary thoughts and I get back to enjoying the reality around me. Although the wind is still relentless, on the port side of the Ioffe the sun is winning the battle in the skies as we enter the caldera at Deception Island.

The entrance to Deception Island is relatively narrow but once inside the caldera the island forms a safe harbor against the Antarctic weather.

Beyond the entrance is Whaler's Bay where we will make our next landing. From the winds and current sea conditions, I can tell our next zodiac ride could get interesting. Even inside the caldera the wind is cold and still blowing strong as it pours down from the surrounding snow covered hills.

Thankfully, there are more areas of blue skies where the sun's heat just might be breaking through.

Soon enough the Ioffe practically comes to a stand still and I stay on deck to witness it being anchored. By no means a simple process.

With the Ioffe anchored I can see our next landing spot which still has decaying buildings left behind from the long since deceased whaling industry. I am told at one point there was even an aiport located here, a part of one of a few scientific research centers that were destroyed by volcanic eruptions in the 1960's.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IRIy4-qSWU

LeslieS,

77 years old ... You are too kind :)

LANDING AT WHALERS BAY

Standing in the zodiac queue, Peter and I attempt to solicit more volunteers for this afternoon's possible Polar Plunge. Comparisons with Hawaii are not working and we fail miserably in our attempts.

Since anchoring at Deception Island the wind has continued to make it's strong presence known and the seas are returning the favor in kind. This makes docking and boarding the zodiacs a little more challenging than normal.

Today, it is a shorter ride to our landing spot and I welcome the ride from the small white cap seas.

Arriving at Whalers Bay we are given a nice introduction to the island by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Lynn's introduction also includes an open invitation for any of us crazy enough to do the Polar Plunge to return to our present spot at 5:45pm.

With the anointed time for our challenge set, Peter and I are off to explore a bit of Whalers Bay.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKbX5fyb9us

WALKING AROUND WHALERS BAY

The wind here seems even stronger than on the ship as Peter and I stroll around the black volcanic surface of Whalers Bay. Now somewhat in a valley, we are closer to the surrounding hills and that maybe a contributing factor.

We are told that in a few months this area will be covered with green plant life along with penguins that like to spend the spring time here. For now, there are only a few of them.

They are smart enough to stand with their backs to the wind or burrow into the ground for protection from it. Even some birds are dug in and asleep with their heads turned backwards to guard against the unrelenting wind.

Meanwhile, a few skuas have gathered near pools of standing water where others are taking bird baths.

I imagine with the blowing wind the temperature is somewhere in the 30 degree or less range. However, I am quite comfortable thanks to the parka provided by Quark Expedition.

Along the shoreline I am reminded of the Bob Marley's song “Three Little Birds” except the birds I am watching are sitting on crashing frigid waves and I don't think they are singing sweet songs and melodies.

I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team. I know for a fact there has not been one from The Bahamas.

Scattered around this area of the bay are the decaying and fragile remains of the whaling industry. We are cautioned to be careful and not to touch them while viewing them.

It is amazing that some of the buildings were habitable given that the conditions here can become so cold and severe.

Next we head towards Neptune Window where we hope to get a glimpse of the actual Antarctica Continent which is about 19 miles away.

Then something interesting happens. Peter, Peter …..


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRrGuu_g1a4

<<I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team.>>

I too am smiling as I remember that they did have an Olympic Bobsled Team!

Aw, talk about a cliff-hanger... something interesting about to happen, we don't know if you're going to go for your swim, ...

Thanks for the videos/photos of Deception Island. That was one place on our itinerary, that I wanted to see, but that we ended up not getting to.

(Oh, btw, when I was on the Ioffe, we had a rule of only one person on the gangway at a time (other than the Russian sailor at the bottom helping people). It looks like Quark didn't impose that rule on you all.)

SPT,

SPT,

3 on gangway for Quark. Deception Island was nice but it sure was windy. Not sure how it offers much protection from the Antarctic weather but it does serve as a safe harbor.

PETER, PETER ....

Lagging behind my friend Peter as we head towards Neptune's Window, I watch as the wind rips a waterproof protective cover off his backpack. This becomes an incident that we were cautioned about during our briefings on the Ioffe.

In order to preserve the beauty of this area we must be careful to not introduce any foreign items onto the continent. Although now an unfortunate innocence situation, a gray nylon cover is racing across the continent in search of a new home where it is not welcomed.

Our attention is now turned to recovering it but we cannot keep up with the speed at which it is moving. It is blending well with the surrounding black and white terrain making our search very difficult . Along with the cover's chameleon effect, the sun's blinding reflection off the snow covered hillside also compromises our efforts.

I see the cover blow around a small hill and this gives me a little hope that it will be slowed down as it will somewhat be sheltered from the full force of the wind. I am disappointed.

Our effort to find the cover becomes fruitless. I feel a sense of guilt and disappointment as I do not want to be a part of destroying or impacting the beauty that is here.

I hope nature will forgive our innocent mistake which unfortunately turns out to be the first of two that we will have made before the day is over.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ulOvMGXsGA

GETTING DIVE BOMBED ON WHALERS BAY

After a fruitless search for a blown away backpack cover, Peter and I are now out of time to explore Neptune's Window and begin walking back towards the shoreline.

A shrieking sounds comes from the sky and I quickly realize that we are being attacked. Looking up, a medium size white bird is making diving bombing runs at my yellow cover head.

Then comes Peter's turn.

Innocently we have walked near a nesting area and this bird is vehemently defending it's territory.

This incident exposes my naivety to life here. I think like most others, I am use to flying birds nesting in trees. Ummm, but there are no trees here. So let's see, 1 plus 1 really does not equal 3!

It would never have occurred to me to watch out for a bird nest on the ground. Another sin of nature committed here and I can think of only one way to cleanse our souls. Peter and I are now on our way to do so.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0DO1JM614o

TAKING THE TRUE POLAR PLUNGE

While there are many beers from around the world, we all know that there is only one King Of Beers, Budweiser. Quit laughing, I am serious. The same comparison can also be made in reference to Polar Plunges.

Although done annually in places like Minnesota, USA and Vancouver, B.C, there are only two regions in the world where one can experience the King Of Polar Plunges.

I happen to be in one of them, Antarctica.

Even with the sun shining, the weather seems even colder as the wind continues it's harassing ways. This scenario reminds me of a winter day in Minnesota where there is often clear blue skies but bitter cold temperatures. Something that becomes confusing to the mind if you are not use to it.

As we continue our walk along Whalers Bay, Peter and I discuss our individual strategy for the Polar Plunge. So far, I am favoring his plan. “Get In, Get Out, Go Home!”

Arriving at the the launch spot, others have already gathered for the plunge. The first plunger of our group is getting prepared as I review plunging instructions with Val, one of the expedition staff members.

Complimenting Val's instructions, the first plunger is in the water, “Just like that!”

Peter makes his entry and returns triumphantly. He vividly comments on the temperature of the water. “So, Cold!”

Since Peter is busy getting his body temperature back to normal, the plan for him to capture my plunge is not going to work. Fortunately, my Cabin 314 roommate, John is witnessing this almost insane spectacle and agrees to do the honors.

Sometimes it is interesting how the mind works. Even as the wind is howling around us with the temperature in the 30's, I am not cold as I strip down to my tropical swim trunks.

Ready to take the plunge, I pause a minute to remove my watch. I know it is waterproof but I am not sure if it is polar-proof.

Then I am racing into the wind driven waves with no thoughts of how cold the water is at that moment. I dive in to the applaud of the Russian judges that give me a 1.3 score.

It is only on my return to the shore that I realize, “The water is … F.. F... Freezing.”

Using a towel to dry off does me no good, the wind now becomes my friend and does a better job. Again, I do not have a sense of being cold but my feet are numb. I look down and although they have lost some color, I am thankful to still have toes.

Even with a 1.3 score, I feel like the King of The Polar Plunge, not bad for an island boy.

Yeah, Mon!

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgzsU1Hj_Vk

Definitely higher than 1.3 just for craziness - can't believe you guys did that!!!

LeslieS,

You know the motto of the "Seal" population around here is...
"We are never ever going to survive unless we get a little crazy"

So when in Antarctica do as .... :)

Amazing!

You're nuts but hurray for the nutty people!

Treesa,

I know a few people that would whole heartedly agree with your sentiments. I for one join you in saluting the nutty people :)

Major bummer about the pack cover, but good of you to make a serious effort to recover it.

As for the polar plunge... Isn't there supposed to be volcanic activity that heats up the water??? I always heard about, and see photos/videos of people soaking in little puddles on the beach, in a narrow region between too hot and #@#$#@ing cold. It looks like you all just ran into the #$!#$!$ing cold ocean! :-) I bow to your superior insanity.

SPT,

Yes, I hated to see that backpack cover flying away and I hope it has gone some place where it will not do too much harm.

There were small puddles up on the beach area but I don't they were warm or deep enough for a plunge. They were mostly for the birds :)

It was run in and haul ***, out! An initial shock that makes you stand around longer than you probably should to get dressed back up.

I don't think I ever shook so much putting my socks on and could barely feel them because my feet were so numb.

Insane, yes but fun and worth the experience!

LEAVING DECEPTION ISLAND

Having completed a “True Polar Plunge”, I return to the Ioffe but not as fast as promised. A long hot shower that involves continually drenching my feet with warm water and my mild fears of frostbite are starting to subside.

Dinner this evening is served buffet style but the highlight of it all is desert. I get to have ice cream. And seeing as I almost froze my toes off, I think I should get to eat all the ice cream in the world.

What do you think Lieutenant Dan?

At the ship’s reception desk is posted the Polar Plunge List. Here, those that have taken the plunge check off their names on the list.

I am honored to be on the list, having survived a chilling but fun and memorable experience. From the check marks I can tell that almost 25% of the Ioffe passengers are nuts!

Besides taking the Polar Plunge the one thing I will recall most about visiting Deception Island and landing on Whalers Bays is the wind.

While having a glass of "fine imported" red wine, thanks to my roommate John from the UK, he tells me the winds are still blowing strong even as we sail away from Deception Island.

I am fascinated by this for two reasons. One, it seems ironic that Deception Island would be a safe harbor since we received little protection from the wind.

Second, it leaves my mind to wonder how brutal the weather must be here during the dark days of winter.

Stepping outside into a passage way near my cabin, the wind is so strong that when I turn my back to it I am literally carried from the starboard (right-side) to the port (left-side) of the ship. On the upper decks I am sure you would have to hold on to reduce the risk of being blown away.

On the open seas Deception Island is fading in the background as the wind and waves produce an occasional giant spray off the bow of the ship. Having had my fill of wind for the day, I return inside to the comfort of the Akademik Ioffe.

In a few minutes, I will head down to the ship’s bar where I hope to win a few “Nil Hands” playing a game or two of Spades.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlVbYOtUXcY

ICE, ICE, BABY

While sailing to our next destination that will have us navigating around icebergs, we get an opportunity to attend another informative lecture.

All right stop collaborate and listen ….

This time it is on ice. Earth Ice, Ice Shelf, Ice Crystals, Icebergs and Glaciers.

Joining the lecture in progress, I am glad to see there is a comedian on board the ship. A question is presented by the lecturer which asks. Which is greater by mass all the life on earth or all the ice?

The room bursts into laughter as the comedian responds, cows!

Did you know 95% of the earth's ice is glacial or that some of the bases of the glaciers in Antarctica are over one hundred thousand years old?

I am looking forward to seeing tomorrow some of the things that are discussed in the presentation. In particular “Blue Ice” which is formed over thousands of years when ice crystals interlock and there is no air spaces between them.

This trip is turning out not only to be fun and adventurous but educational as well.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siME6520_Nw

I GO WALKING

While most of my fellow passengers have retired for the evening, I am having a Patsy Cline moment and go for a walk.

In stretching my Patsy Cline moment, it is well past midnight by the time I make my way to the bridge of the Akademik Ioffe. From earlier visits in the day, I have befriended a few of the officers on the bridge and they welcome my company.

Off in the distance, I am told is another ship. It is the first one we have seen since leaving the Beagle Channel in Argentina four days ago.

From the signature on the Ioffe's radar display, it is believed the ship is the National Geographic Explorer.

We have now traveled so far south than even at midnight there is a fair amount of light and a sliver of the fading sun can be seen over the horizon.

As we head towards West Antarctica, I am told we are in the Gerlache Strait between New Scotland Island and the Antarctic Continent.

Again, the experience of a life time continues even past midnight.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beJvAFnz4fg

ZODIAC BUSINESS CLASS

This morning my planned after the crowd is gone arrival to the “Mud Room” is about to pay dividends. A zodiac final boarding announcement is being made as I am headed that way.

So far, I am the only one in the zodiac queue. This gives me an opportunity to chat it up with Emily another of the great Quark Expedition staff members. Emily runs the on board gift shop but I make no promises to visit as I am not a NBS (Natural Born Shopper). She makes another final boarding announcement but the status quo remains.

Today, I am the sole passenger on the zodiac with Jimmy the zodiac driver although he is also a marine biologist with a specialty in whales.

Leaving the Ioffe, I can witness some of the various ice formations that were talked about in the presentation that I attended last night.

As we race by kayakers enjoying a beautiful morning on the relatively calm seas, areas of “Blue Ice” can be seen along the shore line.

Along the way we pass small pieces of ice that have made their way to seas from the sounding frozen landscape. In some areas down here frozen sheets of ice can be found that are up to 30 miles long.

Just before our landing we stop at a group of zodiacs to pick up a few “riff raffs” that are anchored just of shore. Dr Timor, the ship's doctor, the zodiac mechanic and a few others.

My Business Class ride ends as I am welcomed to our landing spot by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Even without dinner, wine or a movie, I am one lucky passenger. This has been “The Best Business Class” ride I have ever taken.

Wait, is that a colony of Gentoo Penguins I see in the distance?

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP0f1zceJdo

NO HEAD PLANTING

Arriving at Nelson Bay, I quickly see one reason to give snow shoeing a try. Damien, one the expedition staff members is in the process of digging out one of the passengers who is stuck knee deep in the snow.

Damien, later confesses he is was more worried about losing the boot than the passenger. With the coming of summer he figures sooner or later she would be rescued by a passing ship.

He cheerfully tells us that Quark does offer a “Stuck Passenger Rescue Supplement”.

It is about in the 40's with crystal clear skies and serene winds as I get instructions from Damien on fitting and using snow shoes. He somewhat promises that they will prevent us from head-planting as we trek around in the snow.

I end up in a pair of fashionably red ones and start conquering the snow beneath my feet. Remembering how exhausting it was sinking up to my knees on Half Moon Bay yesterday, I am glad this seems to be working.

Initially, I stay on the path as I take in another set of gorgeous Antarctica views. A fellow snow shoer is off in the distance navigating foreign terrain but scares off a colony of penguins in the process. I remain still to give them the right of way should our paths cross.

Continuing my exploration, I leave the beaten path to give way to shoeless trekkers and my victory over the snow is short lived. Somewhere at the bottom of two feet of snow is a “Ruby Red” shoe, I guess I am not in Kansas anymore.

Recovering my shoe, a beautiful blue color reflects back at me from two to three feet below the surface. Refitted, I return to following “The White Snow Road”.

I am not off to see the Wizard, I am off to see one “Cool Gentoo”.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glhZVFNQwI

Snowshoeing looks fun (other than losing one!) and no head plants, I gather. Bravo!

Snowshoes have certainly changed and streamlined. I was expecting to see what I guess are now obsolete shoes that looked like giant tennis rackets. LOL Thanks for the penguin shots. Always enjoy watching these wonderful creatures!

LeslieS,

The snowshoeing wasn't as successful as I would have hoped. I guess the warm temperature contributed as the snow was getting soft.

Also, I found it difficult to do the moonwalk :)

Gionvanna,

That's what I was also expecting concerning the shoes. However, with the tennis racket type you have to worry about head-planting :(

A GENTOO NATION

Being in Antarctica at the beginning of December, we are starting to experience the warming effects of spring. It is in the 40's as we make our landing at Nelson Bay where Gentoo penguins are starting their migration here.

At the top of a hill where the snow has started to melt a small colony is forming. You can tell this is where they have set up shop as the snow here now has an orange brown color to it and is smelly.

There is a bit of penguin conversation going on as I watch from the distance. I think the discussion has to do with who is going to clean up the mess around here.

Most of the penguins in this area are covered in filth and it is easy to spot the ones that have just arrived or returned from a nearby swim.

The Gentoo Nation is taking shape but I am afraid it will take a strong stomach to stand the stench when the Nation is at full strength.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNBN37Gis6c

Hmmm....I do always picture nature in its pristine state. And penguin poo is not part of that vision in my head. I wonder how different it will be by the middle of January when we're there. Surprising to hear 40 degree temps for you - maybe I can stop buying long johns and glove liners.

LeslieS,

I don't know if we just got lucky but throughout the trip we had pretty decent weather. However, sweating in my layered attire did surprise me on a few landings.

You may need to bring a clothes-pin and oxygen in January for some of your landings. The colonies are just starting to gather steam in December. I understand some of the places we visited would be covered with penguins in a few weeks which also means the area would covered in you know what :(

Ha- can't wait! They certainly don't show that in the brochures, do they? Only pure white snow.
Oh well, it's all good - all natural and maybe just requires some extra hosing down when we get back on the ship! :&

ICEBERGS, UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL


On clear days while crossing the North Atlantic I have seen many icebergs of the coast of Greenland but it has always been from at least 30,000 feet at speed of over 500 miles per hour.

This afternoon I am at sea level onboard the Akademik Ioffe as it is navigating a field of icebergs. I feel like “I'm the king of the world” as we cruise by these fantastic natural pieces of artwork.

Soon the Ioffe drops anchor and we are off on an afternoon zodiac tour. Our tour brings us up close and personal to these works of nature that may have taken thousands of year to create. I have the good fortune to be on a zodiac driven by Lynn our expedition leader who shares her wealth of iceberg knowledge with us.

It is mesmerizing being so close to some of these icebergs that I almost want to dive into the aqua blue pool that is created inside some of them.

I imagine for most people like myself, icebergs are thought about in a negative way because of the titanic type destruction they can cause. However, today my mind is changing. I think so would Rose’s if she had a chance to experience them like we are doing this afternoon.

Jack, I want you to draw me an iceberg like you did your French girls and the Eiffel Tower …

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMwLg2P6HrQ

A FLORIDIAN ON ICE

Somewhere far from the Miami Heat, I find myself quietly drifting in a sea of ice. Close by, I can hear only breathing and small chatter. However, in the distance a grumbling can be heard that is soon followed by a crashing sound.

I am sitting in a zodiac in Nicholas Bay, Antarctica along with a few fellow explorers witnessing nature's ice cold beauty and awesomeness. As part of a thousand plus year old glacier falls into the ocean the small chatter turns to woos and excitement. Even birds are thrilled by this action as it means an opportunity for feeding time.

At our distance the falling pieces creates a peaceful rolling motion on the sea beneath us. So gentle that the surface of the water is not even disturbed. If not for the limitation of time, it is a scenery one could enjoy forever under the warming sun and clear blue skies.

Soon the zodiac motor comes to life and we are off exploring more of Nicholas Bay. What my cameras do not capture my mind does and I hope it lasts a lifetime. Another wonderful and amazing experience in Antarctica.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAFdpZ9TPw

A 3 HOUR TOUR, A 3 HOUR TOUR

As we set out on our 3 Hour Tour the weather is getting nice and I have no fear of being stranded on a deserted island. There is no Skipper, Gilligan, Professor, Ginger or Mary Ann. What a shame!

Nonetheless, there are Aussie's Peter and Sue, Peter from Germany, An Expedition Leader and The Bahamian too.

The weather is unbelievable warm with clear clear rich blue skies above and calm winds. Aboard a zodiac we get close up view of icebergs and glaciers that add to our already amazing experience.

We are in Nicholas Bay home to one of the many scientific stations in Antarctica. Most are active only during the Spring and Summer months. Today, the absence of an Argentine flag tells us it is currently unoccupied.

With the warming weather areas of green vegetation can be seen growing on the rocky coastline. Nearby, a colony of penguins, Gentoos, have gathered on a rock soaking up a few sun ray's.

Cruising by icebergs occasionally we spot a seal or two relaxing. Often, they raise their heads to welcome us and express curiosity as we approach for a closer look.

In the protection of a bay surrounded by mountains and towering glaciers the water becomes even calmer. The zodiac glides through fields of brackish ice that have made their way down from the glaciers.

We are fortunate at one point to witness a piece of a glacier fall into the bay. Moments later we sense it's effect on the bay as the water take on a gentle rolling motion. Up closer the ride would have been a little more interesting.

In some areas of the bay, Lynn our zodiac driver turns off the engine and allows our boat to just drift along. The peacefulness and arresting beauty takes my breath away.

Dipping my hand in the refreshingly cold water returns my breathing as I retrieve what could be a thousand year or older piece of ice.

Continuing our tour brings us along a shoreline where birds are nesting in an area with more vegetation. Although the vegetation is just ground cover it adds a nice tropical mix to the surrounding scenery.

As we make our way back to the Akademik Ioffe, we come within mere feet of more spectacular icebergs. Towering white with awesome shapes above the water and shades of brilliant blues just beneath the surface.

Finding a reasonable size broken off from one of these monstrous works of nature, it is hauled into the zodiac. Later this afternoon we will get to taste a piece of our captured treasure, complimented maybe by a fine scotch or beverage of our choosing.

Approaching the Akademik Ioffe it is hard to believe our 3 Hour Tour is over. Waiting our turn to board, I am thinking I could spend a few good months deserted here even if it is just with Thurston Howell, The Third.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SWEkrxMTAk

Cool! Lucky you -- I didn't see a single glacier calving the whole time I was down there. Thanks for posting the video!

Absolutely gorgeous DMB! Memories you will have with you always. Loved the shots of the penguin, sea lion and gull. The icebergs, as you said works of art, were absolutely beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

Ditto to what Giovanna said.

SPT, Yes I think I was very lucky on my trip. The sightings and the weather was amazing. My "Flip" did a decent job capturing the scenery but I wish I had could get a close up of the calving. However, seeing and hearing them live was awesome.

Giovanna & Treesa,

Seeing the gulls were a bit of surprise to me. I usually associate gulls with seagulls which to me equals tropical.

The blue colors and varying shapes of the icebergs were interesting. Must be a sight to see when they break off from glaciers. Some that we went by were pretty huge.

Lots of nice memories made and a few more to share :)