Our Trip Around the World - Part 3 - Australia and New Zealand
 

To see the entire itinerary of the around the world trip we took to celebrate our 50th anniversary, you can view our trip report https://www.fodors.com/community/tra...world-1676895/ under the Travel Tips and Trip Ideas forum.

The whole idea of our trip around the world was inspired by our wish to someday visit New Zealand. Years ago, on a trip to Portugal, we had met a British Airways pilot and his wife who had traveled, it seemed, everywhere on the planet since his retirement 20 years before. When asked to name their favorite place, there was no hesitation. They both loved New Zealand best of all. This exchange inspired us to eventually travel to New Zealand ourselves, but the thought of so many hours on a plane made us hesitant to make the trip. It wasn't until we began researching the possibilities of a round the world trip that we discovered what seemed to be the perfect solution. If we included New Zealand in our rtw itinerary, we could break up the long flight with stops along the way, and then, instead of retracing our steps back home, we could just keep going in the same direction. Also, we could then include Australia, a place that had always intrigued us with its vast and varied natural environment, its distinct wildlife and its unique history. It was right next door. The logistics of flying from Japan to Sydney, then over to New Zealand and back to Melbourne before going off to Singapore, were relatively easy to plan. Before we knew it our itinerary was falling into place
Sydney, Australia - 3 nights
Queenstown, NZ - 1 night
Te Anau, NZ - 4 nights
Tekapo, NZ - 2 nights
Christchurch, NZ - 1 night
Melbourne, Australia - 3 nights
Granted, we weren't able to spend as much time as we'd like in each location, but we thoroughly enjoyed the time we did have, and felt we got a real taste of these two great countries. There were some wonderful highlights and hopefully, we can travel back sometime before too many years have passed.

Signing on for the next stage. I, too, loved NZ.

thursdaysd, like the British Airways pilot we met, you seem to have visited just about everyplace on the planet! (I would love to pick your brain sometime about your favorite places.) Glad to hear you loved New Zealand too.

ARRIVING IN SYDNEY

Our overnight flight from Tokyo to Sydney on Japan Airlines was comfortable, with good food and “lie flat” seats that made sleeping easy. Our very early arrival, however, was problematic, as the flight landed at 6:41am and our Airbnb rental was not available until 2:00 pm. Five hours seemed like a long time to kill while dragging suitcases around behind us, but in actuality it passed fairly quickly. After clearing customs, we took our time at the airport doing those things that are always necessary upon arrival in a new country, like obtaining new currency and scoping out the public transportation options. Then we relaxed for awhile with a cup of “flat white” Australian coffee, which we enjoyed. It wasn’t until we were on our way to find the train into the city that an incident occurred that was a little scary. I was standing near the bottom of a long escalator, waiting for Steve who was checking something out nearby, when I heard a loud noise, almost like an explosion. I turned to see that a woman at the top of the escalator had lost her grip on her very large, hard sided suitcase, which barreled down the stairs like a missile shot from a cannon. The suitcase, which must have been very heavy, ricocheted from side to side and crashed at the bottom, but somehow stayed intact. If anyone had been riding on that escalator, especially near the bottom, that person would have been knocked down and could have been seriously injured, I think. Thankfully, no one was hurt, but it was certainly a scary moment. Nobody these days likes to hear unexpected loud noises in an airport.

The train from the airport to Circular Quay was an easy ride and we soon had our first sight of the wonderful Sydney Opera House. Sometimes iconic landmarks disappoint at first sight, but the Sydney Opera House did not. The harbor itself, with all the ferries coming and going, the cruise ships in dock, the bridge in the distance, and everything else that was going on, was exciting on its own. The Opera House, punctuating the scene, made it all marvelous. Killing more time, we decided to have lunch at one of the many restaurants lining the waterfront. The posted menus seemed to run on the pricey side, as might be expected, but we somehow found just what we were craving, a delicious vegetable soup with crusty bread for me and a toasted ham and cheese sandwich for Steve. While we ate our lunch, we watched the different ferries on their busy rounds. Soon, after hearing from our Airbnb landlord that our apartment was ready, we boarded the little ferry to Kirribilli and were ourselves crossing the harbor on our way to our rental for the next three nights.

Hello Candace,
I’m signing on for your Antipodean Trip Report, too. It’s always interesting to see one’s own corner of the world through others’ eyes. Thanks so much for making the time to do it.

There’s a reason for those signs telling people with luggage to use the lifts, not escalators, at the airport & railway stations! I can imagine you would have had a shock at the noise.

Bokhara2, I had never heard the term “Antipodean” used to describe inhabitants of Australia and New Zealand before. Thank you for adding to my vocabulary, and thanks, also, for following my trip report.

OUR KIRRIBILLI RENTAL APARTMENT

A special view is something I look for when I’m researching potential lodging options for a trip. A great view can add so much to the experience, I’ve found, whether we are staying in a hotel or a vacation rental. Relaxing with a glass of wine while gazing out the window at a beautiful vista or a bustling neighborhood, is always a wonderful way to cap off a good day of sightseeing. This rental, when it came to views, pretty much topped the charts. Located in a tall brick house one street back from the harbor front, this apartment was up four flights of stairs with no lift, but the stair climb was well worth it. From the front windows of the apartment’s cozy sunroom, we had a great view of the Opera House straight across the harbor. The harbor itself was always busy with all sorts of watercraft, coming and going and putting on an endless show. Off to the side was the famous harbor bridge, where we could see the bridge climbers so high up, making their way over the top. Adding another element to the special nature of this apartment were the rainbow lorikeets who showed up frequently on the windowsill, looking for the birdseed which the apartment’s owner thoughtfully provided. Bright green, with blue heads and orange, red, and yellow bibs which coordinated with their tangerine beaks, these birds were spectacular, and we were thrilled with their frequent visits. And then there were the bats. Our first evening in the apartment, I noticed at dusk what I thought to be large crows or ravens, flying in and out of a large tree on the property next door. On closer observation, I could see their furry heads and stretchy notched wings, and knew they were bats. I shut the window tight. A little research revealed to us that these were black or grey headed flying-foxes, a type of fruit bat that lives in groups called “camps” and can develop a wingspan of over 3 feet. Fruit is their preferred diet and they are beneficial to the environment as pollinators and seed distributors, but I didn’t want to ever encounter one up close. According to our research, they are recent residents of Sydney, having arrived ten or so years ago, and the city is researching ways to move them out of town. Their “camps” can be quite noisy, as we heard when we cracked the window open. But their overall numbers are decreasing in Australia so efforts are being made to monitor the population and help it thrive.

After a long and tiring day, we were getting ready for bed when another unexpected highlight of this apartment’s location literally burst outside our windows. Fireworks were exploding over the harbor, right in front of us. We love fireworks and this display was really good. Asking around, we learned that we could expect more fireworks over the harbor on the night before we left. How lucky for us, to enjoy not one but two fireworks displays in Sydney.

I was in Sydney a few months ago and was so lucky to see the Opera House from the air as we descended. Once on the ground, I got to see if from all kinds of vantage points while there and it NEVER gets old! I leave on Saturday to go back (these trips are for work, so little tourist time), but I am looking forward to it. Anxious to read more!

Thanks for sharing. Your Airbnb, and it's views, sounds great.

Kay

I bet the sight of the Opera House from the air is really special, denisea. Unfortunately, we missed it both coming and going.

Yes, KayF, of all the places we’ve rented while traveling, this apartment certainly ranked as one of the best for views and location.

VISITING SYDNEY

After a lazy start to the day, just taking in the view and feeding the birds, we headed off toward the Harbour Bridge and the little group of grocery stores and wine shops clustered nearby. The day before, we had purchased a few supplies for breakfast, but now we needed to buy enough to put together a few lunches and dinners at our apartment.

Strolling through the Kirribilli neighborhood on the way to the bridge was pleasant, with attractive homes and lots of trees and greenery. And we soon learned that we were residing in a pretty posh neighborhood. Our next door neighbor was the Governor General of Australia, as his official residence, Admiralty House, was only separated by a security fence from the sidewalk to our apartment building. And nearby Kirribilli House was, we also found, the secondary residence of the Prime Minister of Australia. Coming and going by ferry, we had a good view from the water of both these stately homes and their lush landscaped grounds.

Before picking up up our groceries, we walked up onto the Harbour Bridge and most of the way across it, enjoying the views. We could pick out our apartment building in the distance, and it was neat to see it from this vantage point. Finally, grocery bags in hand, we headed back to the apartment to unload our supplies, make lunch, and rest awhile before ferrying across the harbor to spend the afternoon visiting the Opera House and the Royal Botanic Gardens.

From a distance, the Sydney Opera House was an amazing sight, with its huge shells, rising like sails in perfect harmony above the harbor. Close up, we saw that the shells, which appeared to be creamy white from afar, were actually covered in cream and white stoneware tiles arranged together in a distinctive chevron pattern. So striking! Walking around the outside of the building, we viewed it from many different angles, all the while marveling at the creative mind of the architect who could first envision such a structure and then draw up a design to bring it to actuality. We didn't take a tour, but we did venture inside at a few of the different entrances, wishing we had the opportunity to attend one of the scheduled performances. To do that must be a wonderful experience.

Leaving the vicinity of the Opera House, we found our way to the Royal Botanic Gardens. The day, which had started out cloudy with only bits of blue sky showing, suddenly turned sunny. Spending a sunlit afternoon in those beautiful gardens was so pleasant. The gardens featured pathways meandering past both unusual trees with huge twisting roots and fantastical shapes, and all sorts of palms, some short and bushy and some tall and elegant. Pretty ponds and flower gardens were inhabited by strange birds, of different shapes, sizes and colors, that we could not name. A fenced off harbor side theatrical venue was occupied by a troop of young dancers who were practicing for a production of West Side Story. We stopped for a while and listened to the director shouting out instructions to the group. Fun to watch. Eventually, we turned back toward the Opera House and stopped for a glass of wine at the quayside Opera Bar. After finding some seats, we settled in for a bit of people watching. We loved our server who, with a big smile, somehow managed to clear off tables, juggle two dozen empty glasses, and take our order, all at the same time. A true multitasker.

We enjoyed our first day hanging out in Sydney. On our second day, we decided to take the famous ferry to Manley Beach. Sydney's ferry system, we found, was easy and fun to use. The smaller ferries that zipped around the harbor reminded me of busy little beavers, always in a hurry to get where they were going, working hard and endlessly energetic. I loved watching them. The Manley ferry was larger and more suited to a longer trip. It was another beautiful day, and sailboats with tall masts and brightly colored jibs crisscrossed the harbor around us. Beyond the protection of the harbor, the ferry encountered some big swells, and it was out here that the serious sailors were racing along at amazing speeds, with some really strong winds filling their sails.

After the ferry ride, it was almost a letdown to arrive at Manley Beach, which was a short walk across from the ferry terminal and down a traffic free commercial street lined with tourist shops and eateries. We sat on a retaining wall for a while and watched the surfers, but the waves weren't really impressive and a fair number of the surfers were beginners, I think. Still, it was fun to see the archetypical young, blond, surfer kids enjoying the day together. Soon, we were hurrying back to the terminal, anxious not to miss the returning ferry.

On our last night in Sydney, we were treated again to a fireworks display after dark. We enjoyed it, but the bats next door must have found the bright lights and loud noises disturbing, as they seemed to fly about in a panic for the duration of the show.

In the morning, it was pouring rain. We had an early flight to Queenstown and a taxi was scheduled to pick us up and take us to the airport. Our worry was that the driver wouldn't be able to find us on this obscure side street below our apartment building, where we waited in the downpour. But the driver located us with no problem and got us to the airport in good time. The only hitch was revealed when we arrived at our hotel in Queenstown and unpacked Steve's suitcase. His suitcase and the clothes inside it were soaked. It must have sat on the top of the baggage cart, in the rain, on the runway, for quite a while. My suitcase was a little damp but nothing inside was wet. It must have been situated toward the bottom of the cart, and so was protected by the cases piled on top. But no real harm was done. We hung Steve's clothes all over the hotel bathroom and they began to dry out pretty quickly. And we were in New Zealand, ready to embark on our next adventure.

Ah Candace, Kirribilli is a lovely little pocket of Sydney & you certainly hit the jackpot with that apartment.

I’ve taken to packing my clothes inside a big plastic garbage bag in my suitcase, since I had a similar experience to Steve some years ago. It’s not elegant, but it’s cheap &
effective.

The Opera House really is something special isn’t it?
If you happen to catch it at the right time at sunrise or sunset, those tiles gleam pink to gold to red.

And during “Vivid” in the winter & at other special times, images are shone into the sails at night.

We’re refurbishing the inside Opera & Music theatres. It was very controversial during construction ( the usual argument about $ ) and the architect, was treated so appallingly by the idiot government, that he resigned.

Fortunately, his vision was (mostly) brought to fruition and I think it’s a stunning landmark in our beautiful city.

I never fail to get the “WOW”, when I fly in over the harbour or sail in on the Manly ferry.

Thanks again - looking forward to your next chapters.

Bokhara2, I really appreciate your insight into our experiences in Sydney. I agree, Sydney is a really beautiful city. I wish we could have seen the Opera House at sunset. Maybe next time.

ARRIVING IN NEW ZEALAND

Toward the end of our flight from Sydney to Queenstown, Steve lifted the window shade to reveal a stunning landscape of mountains, packed close together, with zig zag peaks colored in strange shades of tan and brown. The coloration was not what we expected, until we realized that it was fall in New Zealand. But still, as I said, the view was stunning. When we landed at Queenstown airport, we were greeted with a beautiful sunny day. The airport was small and easy to maneuver, and with its nearby mountains, reminded us of Kalispell's airport in Montana. After clearing customs, and a small issue with Steve's hiking boots, we were on our way. Please note, hiking boots must clear customs too, meaning they must be clean and carry no foreign dirt. The inspectors asked to examine Steve's boots, but decided they were okay to go on through. Understanding how important it is for New Zealand to block any invasive species from infiltrating their pristine environment, we were glad to comply with the inspection. Some people's boots, we were told, were actually taken away and thoroughly cleaned if necessary.

We took a cab to the Hilton Queenstown Resort, which wasn't too far from the airport and situated right on the lake. Our room was large, with a lake view and a small balcony. We soon settled in, relaxing on the balcony and taking in the lovely scenery surrounding us. We could have arranged to take a shuttle craft across the lake and into town, but we decided we were tired, and happy staying right where we were. The older we get, the more we feel the need to pace ourselves while traveling, but that's okay too. Some of those relaxing moments in lovely places can be very special. For dinner, we walked the short distance to Stack's Pub, where we shared a really good pizza. In fact, we have to say that all the food we had, both in Australia and New Zealand, was always really good, whether we ate in a restaurant or cooked it for ourselves.

The next morning, we passed on the big, pricey, resort style breakfast in the dining room, and just purchased some muffins from the little coffee shop instead. After checking out, we taxied back to the airport where we picked up our rental car and started off to Te Anau, the town where we planned to spend the next four nights in another Airbnb rental. Because the rental house wouldn't be available til 3:00 pm and we were hungry, we decided to have a nice leisurely lunch in town. There were a few different restaurants opened at lunchtime, but we chose the one that seemed to have the best outside seating, The Ranch Bar and Grill. I selected a prawn appetizer which turned out to be one of the best shrimp dishes I've ever tasted, while Steve's hamburger was excellent, too. Again, wonderful food in this part of the world. When we were finally able to gain access, our rental house turned out to be one of the biggest, cleanest, and most comfortable places we have ever rented. A single story house on a pleasant residential street, it had a great open floor plan and a huge expanse of windows with distant mountain views. The kitchen was well equipped, with a fancy gas range, lots of utensils, plates, glassware, and cutlery, and a beautifully stocked pantry cupboard. Plus, we soon found that the nearby supermarket in town, where we could pick up any groceries we needed, was well stocked, shiny clean, with lovely produce and meat, and a great selection of wine and beer. Steve, the chief cook and menu planner, was a happy man. We spent the rest of the day buying groceries, unpacking, doing laundry, and cooking dinner. The next day, we had an early start, as our plan was to join a tour to Doubtful Sound.

OUR TOUR TO DOUBTFUL SOUND

Real Journeys was the company we used for our Doubtful Sound tour. They had an office right on the main highway in Te Anau and that is where we went to pick up our tickets, which had been reserved on line a few months before. The bus transporting us from Te Anau to Lake Manapouri arrived at the office right on time and we were soon on our way. I can't remember the exact duration of the bus ride, but before long we arrived at the lake. There was a small shop there at the dock where sandwiches and snacks could be purchased for the trip, along with bug repellant to use against the infamous sand flies. People milled around for a while, but soon it was time to transfer to the boat which would carry us across the lake. Overcast skies and a low lying haze hung heavy around us. Unhappily, we couldn't see the surrounding mountains, which were wrapped in clouds like fluffy mufflers. The lake itself had a pewter sheen as we glided through it. All was grey everywhere we looked, except for a small triangle of blue sky that could eventually be seen between two mountain peaks up ahead. After about an hour, the boat touched shore and docked on the far side of the lake, where a large power station seemed an incongruous addition to the landscape. Everyone left the boat and climbed onto buses for the drive up and over Wilmot Pass. The dirt road over the pass was an engineering marvel, built out of necessity to bring the supplies needed to build the power station. The bus climbed up through rain forested mountains, with a steep river gorge appearing as a sheer drop on one side of the road or the other. Finally, as we crested the top of the pass, a different world opened up in front of us. Black and white was suddenly replaced by brilliant technicolor, and a jaw dropping view of the sound before us appeared in dramatic blue and silver covered with golden sunlight. I heard gasps of awe from people on the bus as the view opened up in front of them. What a glorious moment! I will never forget it. The bus driver pulled over and stopped so we could all get off and pictures, but of course the pictures did not do it justice. Doubtful Sound itself was gorgeous as we boated through it, with waterfalls like jeweled strings dangling from the mountain tops down to the sea, with rocky gouges white and ripped away by erosion from the mountain sides, and with green peaks that pieced the sky with sharp points circled by puffy clouds. So beautiful everywhere we looked, it was almost overwhelming. When we reached the Tasman Sea at the mouth of the sound, big swells lifted the boat with effortless power. A lone island inhabited by lolling fur seals added to the excitement. Back down into the sound, the captain turned the motor off and we had a few minutes to take in the special silence that was part of this isolated place. Everyone on the boat went still and, except for some passing gulls, there was total peace and quiet. It was a nice touch at the end of the boat ride.

On the bus ride back to Te Anau, I happened to look out the window to see a wide pasture with dozens of sheep scattered across it, all bathed in a lovely, soft golden light. That sight was the perfect end to an absolutely memorable day.

So lucky you had sunshine for the sound. My visit to Milford Sound was misty, although still lovely.

Realize I forgot to respond to your comment about my travels. I took early retirement back in 2000 so I could travel. When I spent 2017 on the couch with a heating pad I was so glad I had! I've done four RTWs, much on the ground, but have big gaps in Africa and Central and South America. I have lots of favorite places on my "go back to" list, but these days I'm not sure I'll make it. Carpe diem!

We did the overnight with Real Joyrneys on the Doubtful Sound maybe 2 weeks ago. It was spectacular. I absolutely loved NZ. You sound like you are off to a great start there. Have fun,

Wow, Candace, you certainly capture the scenery & the moments so perfectly, I feel as if I’m on the trip with you.

Australia & New Zealand, being islands, are as
free from imported diseases that will threaten our fragile ecologies as we can make them.

Vigilance about what’s brought in on boots or in bags is an ongoing battle. So thanks for your understanding & help.

looking forward to your next venue!

thursdaysd, I’m so glad to know you “seized the day” by deciding to retire early and travel for all those years. Four times around the world is certainly an accomplishment. Best of luck making it to some of those places you would like to revisit.

Yestravel, the overnight Doubtful Sound Trip sounded like it would be amazing, but I couldn’t figure out how to fit it into our schedule. Glad you loved it. New Zealand is an absolutely beautiful part of the world, isn’t it?

Bokhara2, it must be a real struggle to keep invasive species and diseases from infiltrating your environment. On one of our tours, we heard stories of the havoc possums and rabbits brought to New Zealand when they were imported from England years ago. Possums, as we understood it, absolutely decimated some of the native bird populations when they were introduced into the environment.

Candace thanks for your report. I live in Nelson and have done the trip to Lake Manapouri but not into Doubtful Sound. I always thought you had to overnight, but as I don't actually like boats much I have been put off. However I told my husband that a day trip like you did would work. Have done Milford Sound but that was 42 years ago on our honeymoon.

DRIVING A SMALL SEGMENT OF THE "SOUTHERN SCENIC ROUTE"

On our second day in Te Anau, we decided it would be interesting to drive down toward the very southernmost coast of New Zealand, where we would be able to see the great Southern Ocean and look off in the direction of far off Antartica. The "Southern Scenic Route", starting in Queenstown and ending in Dunedin, is 610 kilometers in distance, we learned when we stopped into the Fiordland National Park Visitors Centre in Te Anau and picked up a route map. The map also pointed out many natural and cultural attractions that could be visited along the way. Planning our day, we thought we would follow the scenic drive only as far as the little town of Riverton, which looked like a likely place to have lunch, before heading back to Te Anau. So off we went. At first, the landscape we drove through was mostly cropland separated by forested hillsides, with distant mountains defining the horizon, all with that distinctly different aspect we were beginning to see as specific to New Zealand. Lush and lovely. When we finally reached the sea, we followed a sign to Cozy Nook, a very small fishing village which, long ago, used to be the site of a large Maori settlement. Walking down to the rocky shore, we watched the waves pounding in and looked out over the huge expanse of the ocean, always a beautiful sight to me. There were a few other interesting stops we could make, but we decided to save them until after lunch. In Riverton, we parked at the Te Hikoi Southern Journey Museum, which called itself "New Zealand's Best Museum", and was located on the main street in town. The volunteers manning the museum gift shop were wonderful, and happy to give us their best advice as to where to have lunch in town. Their top recommendation was the Beach House, situated a short distance away from the town on the further end of the bay. Before we left the gift shop, I made one of my favorite purchases of the trip, a beautiful sea gem necklace strung with fresh water pearls, hand assembled in New Zealand. Sea gems, I learned, are also known as "the doorway to a sea shell" and are formed by sea snails. The one that was incorporated into my necklace had a delicate grey-green swirl on a creamy background and was absolutely lovely.

Soon, we were off to the Beach House Restaurant, a homey place where the service was slow but the food was good. I ordered seafood chowder, and Steve had fresh fish sliders. My soup came in a very large bowl and Steve's sliders filled a platter, so neither of us could finish our meals, which was a real shame. After lunch, we stopped at Gemstone Beach, which I was really looking forward to exploring, as I love searching the sand for pretty stones. Lots of the stones were already stacked in cairns on the rocks above the beach. So striking. We stopped a few more times for the views on the way back to Te Anau, arriving back at our house in the late afternoon. It had been another good day.

How wonderful, Nelsonian, it must be to live in New Zealand and do day trips to some of these beautiful places. I wish we'd had enough time to make our way up to Nelson, which sounds like the ideal base for both exploring the northern side of the South Island and the southern side of the North Island. Perfect!

OUR TOUR OF MILFORD SOUND

Milford Sound, with so much spectacular natural beauty, is the most famous of the fifteen fiords of Fiordland National Park. The company we chose to use for our tour was Fiordland Tours, which offered what they called the Milford Sound Fiordland Tour Extraordinarie. Limited to a group of fifteen people, this tour provided pick up in Te Anau and offered extra "photo stops" on the way to the sound which were not included on other tours.

The tour van picked us up right in front of our rental house. We were the last to be picked up and our amiable driver / tour guide took a minute so everyone on the van could briefly introduce themselves. Most of our fellow travelers were British, although there were a few New Zealanders from the North Island. Along with our tour guide, who gave us good background information on what we would be seeing, the New Zealanders offered some really interesting commentary as we drove along. Our first stop of note was Mirror Lakes which lived up to the name in glorious fashion, as the surrounding mountains were reflected with absolute clarity in the still, flat surface of the lake water. Somewhere along the way, we passed over the 45th parallel, which marks the halfway point between the Equator and the South Pole. Beyond that point, we stopped to walk a trail through the rainforest to the Marian Cascade, a series of tumbling waters which were sliding over and smashing against the rocks in a narrow stream bed. The path along the way was lined with giant fern fronds like big umbrellas. Heavy plush mosses were climbing up tree trunks and all sorts of vines were twisting around everything . A few delicate orchids with clusters of tiny white flowers were hanging, almost hidden, from a tree branch. Everywhere, there were extravagant shades of green, lush and exaggerated like the illustrations in a fairytale. I wished we could have stayed here longer but soon we were moving on again. The historic Gunns camp, an old miners' settlement which now offers hikers cabins and hostel type accommodations, provided our tour group with a tea or coffee break and restrooms. I ducked into the tiny gift shop and came out with the perfect gift for our 9 year old grandson who, like me, loves collecting interesting rocks, driftwood, and other found objects from nature. This little shop featured a collection of greenstone amulets made, I was told, by a local man. Greenstone, or pounamu, is highly valued by the Maori as a talisman with spiritual powers, and the purchaser should always gift it to someone else, never keeping it for himself. Our grandson, Lincoln, would love the background story, which was printed out on a small placard, as much as he liked the amulet, I thought.

After leaving Gunns Camp, we arrived at the entrance to the Homer Tunnel, a 1.2 kilometer long engineering marvel that was opened in the 1950's to allow access to Milford Sound. Once through the tunnel, the van wound down the steep curving road, eventually making its way to the bottom, past the little Milford Sound airport and on to the cruise terminal where our group was directed onto the boat that would take us out on our tour of the sound. Our weather on this day, unfortunately, had turned out to be just the opposite of the weather we had experienced on our Doubtful Sound trip. The sun had shone earlier upon Mirror Lakes and Marian Cascades, brightening up everything we looked at with lovely color. But by the time we arrived at Milford Sound, the sun had disappeared. The overcast skies piled with grey clouds dulled down the scenery, which was still beautiful but must be amazing in the sunlight. No matter, the boat still plowed through the water, while dolphins raced along side, and the sheer cliff faces rose high above. Tall waterfalls like ribbons unfurled down the steep sides, and fur seals napping on rocks paid little attention to our boat passing nearby. It took about two hours to travel up and down the sound, and at the end of the trip the captain drove close enough to one of the waterfalls that its spray hit our faces. A glacial facial, he called it.

The drive back to Te Anau didn't seem too long. The van didn't make many stops going back and people seemed weary. Some even napped on the way. We were soon dropped off at our house for our last night in Te Anau. Te Anau was a nice town, we decided, and didn't seem really touristy, but it was time to move on. The next day, our plan was to drive to Lake Tekapo for two nights in the vicinity of Mt. Cook and Lake Pukaki.

Just joining your journey and loving it. Sydney is uniquely beautiful, isn't it? I can never tire of seeing the Opera House seemingly floating on water. And how about NZ - I really enjoyed your account of Doubtful Sound. Too bad you didn't have more time to continue along the Southern Scenic Route through the Catlins - it gets better and better.

Tripplaner001, I wish we could have traveled further along the Scenic Southern Route, as my research showed the Catlins were well worth visiting, as you say. Unfortunately, we had to make some tough choices about where we could go, due to time constraints on this trip. I'm thankful, though, for what we did get to see. Thanks for following along.

ONWARD TOWARD AORAKI / MOUNT COOK

Leaving Te Anau behind, we had a five hour drive to our next accommodation, a tiny house in the town of Tekapo, situated on the southern shore of Lake Tekapo. The drive took us back through Queenstown and halfway to Christchurch, which would be our final stop in New Zealand. After driving through the scenic wine country above Queenstown and then across picturesque farmland, we found ourselves in a dry, mountainous region that reminded us of Wyoming. Then suddenly in the distance off to the left, a snowcapped peak, taller than anything around it, came into view. We knew right away it was Mount Cook. Against a pure blue sky on a cloudless day, Mount Cook's snowfields covered its slopes with gleaming white streaks, accenting its sharp edges. And then glacial blue Lake Pukaki appeared in the foreground, completing the stunning scene. We pulled into the parking lot of an information center at the end of the lake to take photographs. Glacial blue water is a color that's almost hard to believe, it is so brilliant, and the mountain behind it really completed the picture. The waters of both Lake Pukaki and Lake Tekapo were glacial blue, and we kept marveling at the amazing turquoise color as we drove along the shore lines of each lake.

After we left the information center, it was only a 30 minute drive to Tekapo, and we were soon checking into our next Airbnb rental, a little red Quonset hut type building that was called "The Red Nest". Supposedly, it had a great view and I thought it was located right on the lake. So I was disappointed when the house turned out to be situated up on a hillside, surrounded by lots of other vacation homes, all jockeying for a view of the lake. But after our initial disappointment, the little place began to grow on us. Even though it was crowded into a housing development of sorts, our tiny house was located at the very end of the street and did have a pretty view in one direction. Small and cozy, it met all our needs. The only real negative I found was the complete lack of space for our clothes. There were no hooks or hangers or dresser drawers at all in the house, so I couldn't unpack anything. Thankfully, there was a tiny second bedroom where we could at least lay our suitcases on the bed, so we settled in for our two nights in "The Red Nest".

For those who weren't aware, there was a lot of damage on the road to Milford Sound, including Gunn's Camp. You were lucky to have been there before it happened!


I had to make two trips to Milford to be able to see Mitre Peak, but was able to on the second try (after walking the Milford Track).

Hi Candace, I'm really enjoying reading your report, especially the Doubtful Sound tour day. So descriptive, it made me want to book airfares!

Kay

Wow, mlgb! I had read recently about the flooding on the Milford Sound Road, but had no idea of the extent of it. What an awful mess. I’m so sorry to see all the destruction. How long will it take to repair it all, I wonder?

Our trip to Milford Sound took place almost a year ago, in 2019. I’m afraid this trip report is really tardy but I decided “better late than never”.


Yes, Kay, Doubtful Sound was a highlight for us. I will never forget how dazzling it was in the sunshine. The sun never came out during our cruise of Milford Sound, so it wasn’t quite as dazzling for us, but was still stunningly beautiful. I hope you can plan a visit someday.

Two nights at the Red Nest gave us one full day to spend in the Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki, and Mount Cook area. When the morning dawned sunny and clear, we decided the best plan would be to drive toward Mount Cook and take in the beautiful colors of Lake Pukaki. There were some outstanding photo opps along the way but we were disappointed when we got to Mt. Cook Village. On a gorgeous Sunday afternoon in autumn, the small resort town was overwhelmed with visitors. There were no parking spots available in town or at any of the nearby trailheads. Finally, we gave up our idea of a pleasant stroll through the village or a walk on a path up toward the mountain, and decided to head back down the lake. We had packed sandwiches, and parked in a pullout above the lake for a picnic lunch.

So your trip was last year? I was amazed that the road to Milford Sound was open so quickly. We had to go in one way convoy out to the Sound. The devastation was awful. Gunns Camp is gone.
yes, NZ is gorgeous and way too much to choose from. We also enjoyed TeAnau as a place to spend a few days.

Really enjoying your report Candace. Takes me back to many happy months wandering the highways and byways of New Zealand. we loved the Catlins and the Southern Scenic route but reading about the crowds in Mt Cook, it make me glad we always go in winter. Also loved your descriptions of Sydney, its harbour and, especially the Manly Ferry. Son and daughter in law live there and I take every opportunity to remind them that they have the best commute in the world! Just about to start planning for our next trip to Oz in 2021. Keep it coming!

We are glad to hear, yestravel, that the Milford Sound Road reopened so quickly, but we’re sorry about Gunn’s Camp. Hopefully, that too can be restored eventually.

Yes, unfortunately, I procrastinated for a while before I started this round the world trip report. But I did keep a journal while we traveled. Without the journal, I would probably have had some real memory lapses by this time.

Thanks for for your encouragement, crellston. Kind words like yours and yestravel’s help me keep this going.

After lunch, we continued our drive down Lake Pukaki. After a bit, I noticed a sign for a lavender farm up ahead. I do so love lavender. A few whiffs invoke memories of clean fresh sheets, little Parisian shops, and summer mornings in my herb garden. So soothing, the fragrance of lavender just makes me happy. So we stopped. To see the surrounding fields in bloom must be amazing, but the NZ Alpine Lavender Farm was still lovely, so neat and well kept, even after harvest. We had a pleasant chat with the young woman who running the pretty little shop, which she had created from a large shipping container. Before we left, I purchased a jar of lavender hand and body lotion, made with Manuka honey. Just lovely! I use it very judiciously and still have some left.

We stopped next at a salmon farm, down the road from the turn to Tekapo, as we thought we might like some salmon for dinner. Behind the farm’s restaurant were some pools filled with live salmon , with fish food pellets provided nearby to anyone who wanted to feed them. Feeding salmon was a new experience for us, so we took a few minutes to toss a few pellets to the fish, who broke the surface of the water, swirling and diving after the food. Later in the day, at a different location, we bought a package of bright pink salmon to cook for dinner. Delicious.

That night, we experienced the “Aoraki / Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve”, an area where minimal light pollution allows for beautiful views of the night skies. Sometime in the night, Steve woke up and looked out the window. He called to me, and we both looked out at stars big as buttons and bright as roadside flares in the night sky. Brilliant! The next morning on our way out of town, we stopped at the Mount John Observatory. Perched on top of Mt. John, the observatory is run by the University of Canterbury. There are various telescope domes on the mountaintop, and different night time tours are operated from this location. The Night Sky Cafe was open and we had coffee and pastries on the patio, sitting at a picnic table while enjoying the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. After leaving the observatory, we stopped outside Tekapo at a pretty little stone church overlooking the lake. The Church of the Good Shepard, with its special location above Lake Tekapo, is well known as a prime spot for photographers. Unfortunately, by the time we got there in the morning, it was overwhelmed by tourists and it was nearly impossible to take an unobstructed picture. I guess we had taken too much time enjoying our coffee at the cafe on Mt. John. Never mind, we were soon on the road again, on our way to Christchurch to turn our car in at the airport. We would then spend the night in the city, before flying the next morning to Melbourne, Australia.

OMG -- the salmon was so delicious in NZ. I was tempted to stop at that salmon farm, but we didn't. And the stars in Aoraki and elsewhere were fabulous. I was always running out late at night to check out the sky. We've just gotten home from our trip and its great to read your description of both places we went and those we missed.

Another vote for NZ salmon. Didn't see stars though.

Candace

I just love following along with your report. Another vicarious traveller here.

Yestravel and tripplanner, I wish we could get salmon like it here at home. We are not big fans of salmon, but we really enjoyed New Zealand salmon.

Thank you, Margo-oz, for following along. I, too, enjoy being a vicarious traveler. Right now, with COVID-19 infecting most of the world, vicarious travel is the only kind of traveling we can do.


CHRISTCHURCH FOR A NIGHT

After dropping our rental car off at the Christchurch airport, we took a cab to our hotel for the night, the Chateau on the Park, a Hilton Doubletree property. On route, the cabdriver told us about a memorial vigil that was scheduled to take place later that day in Hagley Park, which was right across the street from the hotel. In Christchurch the week before, fifty people had been slain by a single murderer who had attacked two separate mosques. This vigil was to be held in memory of the victims. After checking into the hotel, we walked across the street toward the site of the memorial service. By that time, hundreds of people were streaming across the grass in the same direction. After finding a place to sit on the lawn, quite a distance away from the stage where the service would be conducted, we were soon chatting with the local New Zealanders sitting on either side of us. Because we had been watching the constant coverage of the massacre on the local news channels, we knew how horrified the people of New Zealand had been by this awful crime committed in their beautiful, peaceful country, and how they had drawn together to help their Muslim neighbors in any way they could. Those New Zealanders we talked to before the service reconfirmed the sense we had that this country was reeling but, as we kept hearing, they would "never let such an event define them". One of the ladies seated next to us kept commenting on the large armed police presence patrolling the park. So much security was obviously needed under the circumstances, but it made our neighbors on the lawn very uncomfortable. "Why does that officer look so unfriendly?", one woman asked when a policeman with a very large gun took up a position near us. How unfortunate it would be, I thought, if heavily armed, unsmiling police officers became the new normal. But I don't think New Zealanders would let that happen. I believe that the strong collective determination to take care of each other, displayed by the people of New Zealand after this tragedy, is what defines them, and it seemed to me that they survived this event by becoming stronger, and more determined than ever to hold on to their compassionate, peace loving lifestyle. Wouldn't it be wonderful if more people in the world could follow their example?

When we returned to our hotel, we felt rather drained but we were glad we had witnessed this moving vigil. The Chateau on the Park was a very nice hotel, and because we were Hilton Honors members, we had been upgraded to a room with a balcony overlooking the lovely gardens. The balcony was a good place to unwind before we made our way to the restaurant for dinner. For his last night in New Zealand, Steve treated himself to roast lamb. He really enjoyed, especially because, when he hesitated to order what he feared might be too much food, the waitress offered to bring him a half portion dinner. We wished half portions could be an option at more restaurants for seniors like us.

Soon, we were back in our room, planning our departure to the airport in the morning and anticipating our return to Australia.

ON TO MELBOURNE

Our flight from Christchurch to Melbourne took close to four hours, and was straightforward and uneventful. Sitting next to us on the aisle was a pleasant woman from New Zealand who we started chatting with toward the end of the flight. By the time we disembarked, we were all good friends. She was wearing a black and white rugby jersey and was an ardent fan. Rugby, we learned, is the favorite sport of New Zealanders, and Steve asked her all about the sport and her team. She was happy to answer his questions and her enthusiasm was catching. The only rugby game I have ever watched looked incredibly rough and tough. The players themselves looked even rougher and tougher, but they were obviously having a great time. According to our seat mate, rugby in New Zealand is as tough as it gets, but both players and fans love every bit of it.

In Melbourne, we had rented another Airbnb apartment, and it took some texting back and forth before we could arrange to meet up with the young man who was designated by the owner to give us the key and show us around. The apartment was located near the top of a 38 floor high-rise building in the CBD (Central Business District) of Melbourne, and had a sweeping view which was quite impressive at night when the lights came on in all the surrounding high-rises. What surprised us was not the location, which was pretty good, or the compact size of the place, but the fact that all 38 floors were occupied by Asian students. At first, it felt like we were living in a college dorm. The elevator, the lobby, and the hallways were always full of young people, mostly Chinese, coming and going from the nearby University of Melbourne. But these kids, whether we were surrounded by them in the elevator or passing them in the corridors, were unfailingly polite and helpful, and we soon got used to the unusual atmosphere of the place.

After settling ourselves in our apartment, the next order of the day was to find a grocery store nearby where we could purchase something to cook for dinner that night. At the same time, we also needed to get some supplies for breakfast the next morning. This turned out to be easier said than done. The closest food stores only carried Asian products, and few of the signs or labels were in English. We were tired, I guess, and it all seemed too confusing to process at the moment. Eventually, quite a ways down one street, we came across an Aldi's Supermarket, but because it was close to 5:00 pm it was crowded and just getting through the aisles was pretty stressful. We ended up buying a package of frozen lasagna to heat up for our evening meal. Obviously, this was not the most outstanding dinner we had on this trip, but it worked.

We had booked a tour of the Great Ocean Road through a company called "Ocean Road Day Tours" for the next morning. While we were eating dinner, we got a message from Stuart, the tour operator, wondering if we would be okay with delaying the tour for the day after tomorrow. Actually, that turned out to be better for us. We weren't really eager to get up at 5:00 am the next morning to make the 6:00 am pickup for the tour. Plus, the Queen Victoria Market, which we really wanted to visit, would be open tomorrow, but not the following day. If we stuck to the original schedule, we would have to miss it. So, we told Stuart we would be happy to reschedule. After dinner, we enjoyed the city lights for a bit, then went to bed early and slept in a little later the next morning. We woke up rested and ready to go out and about in the city of Melbourne.

MELBOURNE FOR A DAY

The sun was shining and the sky was blue when we set out the next morning to walk to the Queen Victoria Market. Local markets like this one are always fun to visit, as the vendors take such pride in their products and how they display them. Colorful mounds of fruits and vegetables, interesting piles of fish and other seafoods, plus stalls selling all varieties of meats (including kangaroo) filled the large market halls. The market was huge and we wandered around with the aid of a map, past counters of delectable looking baked goods and other treats. Looking for something we could cook ourselves in our apartment for dinner, we spotted some oven-ready Chicken Kiev at one butcher shop. After the butcher gave us detailed instructions on how to bake it, and wrapped it up for us, we went on to purchase some cheese and olives to enjoy with our pre-dinner wine. With so much to choose from, it took awhile for us to decide on a dessert, but eventually we settled on a selection of delicate little cookies. Wow! We certainly weren't going to lose weight on this trip. Before carrying all our purchases back to the apartment, we paused for lunch at the famous Bratwurst Shop & Co for a grilled bratwurst topped with sauerkraut. This sandwich was really big, so we shared it. It was so messy to eat, but it was so good.

After lunch, we boarded one of the City Circle Trams, which offered free rides around the center of the city. We rode the tram to the Fitzroy Gardens, where we spent a pleasant afternoon strolling along the various garden paths. Captain James Cook's boyhood home had been transported stone by stone from England in 1934 before being reconstructed in Fitzroy Gardens. Such a pretty little place, the house was surrounded by a cottage garden and had rooms that were furnished in the style of the mid seventeen hundreds. In the back was a small exhibition hall that highlighted the adventures of this amazing man, who spent his life exploring and mapping far flung areas of the Pacific Ocean. How interesting that Captain Cook was a Yorkshire farm boy who had no experience of the sea until he was in his late teens. Obviously, he made up for lost time and must have had great aptitude, as he captained various expeditions through some of the world's most treacherous waters. Special to Australian history, Captain James Cook was the first European to sail along the eastern coast of Australia, which he claimed for Britain and named New South Wales.

After leaving Captain Cook's Cottage, we located the Fairies Tree which I thought my grandkids would be intrigued by. The large stump of a red gum tree, the Fairies Tree was covered with various carvings of fairies, gnomes, and all sorts of birds and animals. Created by one woman, Ola Cohn, in the early 1930s, it was very fanciful and fun to see, as was the nearby miniature Tudor Village, which looked like it could easily be occupied by fairies. I'm sure both the Fairies Tree and the Tudor Village are beloved by the children of Melbourne.

We again climbed on board the free tram for the ride back to our apartment building, where we cooked a delicious dinner and went to bed early in anticipation of our tour of the Great Ocean Road the next day.

OUR GREAT OCEAN ROAD TOUR

We were up at 4:30 am to make our 5:45 scheduled pickup for our tour of the Great Ocean Road. One reason we had chosen to tour with the "Great Ocean Road Small Group Tour" company was the early pickup, as it allowed our driver to beat the tour bus crowds at the popular stopping points along the way. Our driver, and tour guide, was Stuart, who also owned the company. He apologized profusely for asking us to delay our tour for one day, due to a mixup on his part. But as it turned out, because of the mixup, we were the only people booked on the tour that day. Instead of riding along with 6 other people, we ended up having a private tour with just the 2 of us, which was really very nice.

Stuart drove his van up to our apartment building right on time. By first light, he had located a "mob" of kangaroos near a side road off the highway. We looked on as the group grazed on grass, then watched as some of them bounded across the field and jumped the fence with their mighty hind legs. I had hoped to see some kangaroos in the wild, so seeing them like this was thrilling. As we continued along the Great Ocean Road, Stuart utilized some carefully chosen pull-offs so we could take in the views and get some great photos. The breakfast bags he provided us were bountiful and kept us satisfied til lunchtime. Lunch at Stuart's favorite roadside cafe was included in the price of the tour. With Stuart's guidance, we ordered from the regular menu, and both our choices were really good. While we were eating, Australian king parrots and brilliant crimson rosellas entertained us outside the cafe windows. Such gorgeous, colorful birds were certainly a treat to watch, and their presence made our good lunch even better.

After lunch, Stuart drove on to theTwelve Apostles, the "grand finale" of the tour. Stunning, with tall, sculptured stacks and dramatic blue-green surf pounding away, the Twelve Apostles were unlike anything we had ever seen before, and were truly impressive. And Stuart ensured that we saw this dramatic sight from the best vantage points, without the overwhelming crowds that appear later in the day. Throughout the tour, Stuart's informed commentary about not only the Great Ocean Road but Australia in general, and his patient answers to our many questions, made us feel, at the end of the day, that we had learned so much about this special place in the world. Stuart gave us a great tour.

Because of our early start, we arrived back in Melbourne with plenty of time to stroll along the promenade and across the footbridge in the Southbank area near the Yarra River, where Stuart dropped us off. Eventually, we found the City Circle Tram which we rode back to our apartment building. The front window of a pie shop near the tram stop displayed some savory meat pies that looked very tempting, so we purchased a small one to heat up for our dinner. Our last day in Australia had been a really good day, certainly. In the morning, we would leave Australia behind after we found our way to the airport and boarded our flight to Singapore, our next stop on this wonderful round the world anniversary trip.

Still following along. That sounds like a really good day!

The trip is continued here: https://www.fodors.com/community/asi...apore-1678850/

We (my wife and I), both of us in 30s, are planning a trip to Australia for first time. We like wildlife and adventures more than city life. We are not party animals and would like to spend a day (not more) on the beaches. Based on our interests, which part of Australia should we go for? East coast or west coast? We had almost planned for west coast, but majority of travelers insist on sydney and east coast. Please suggest if we should go for west coast or east coast of Australia. We will be driving a rental car and do not mind driving. We WANT to see kangaroos and koalas and other wild life and would want to do some great adventures.