Help with Planning South Island, NZ
 

Hello, my husband and I will be traveling to New Zealand in Feb. '23 for 17 days. We are aware that it could be hot, high season and making plans very late, so we could use some Fodorites great help! BTW our last trip to Spain was fabulous with wonderful suggestions from the group and we need your help again. Suggestions for Car Rental: Apex? Lodging, Restaurants and not your usual tourist place are gladly accepted
We are coming from the Northeastern US and are going to fly Bos-New York and take the long nonstop to Auckland. Knowing jetlag will take a toll, we are planning on two nights in Auckland to recover. Our main focus is the South Island and will have a total of 13 nights on the South Island, then fly Christchurch for the night before we fly back to Auckland for home. Knowing that less is so much more we are trying to be selective in what areas we are going to and trying to not just see the country from behind the windshield. My husband will do the bulk of driving and has driven on the "other" side of the road a few trips. We are interested in seeing National Parks (Mt. Cook, Abel Tasman, Paparoa, and Fiordland)( so many and so little time) for wildlife, hiking and perhaps kayaking. Open to booking tours. We would really like to do a 1 night in the Doubtful Sound and need to have an idea of our driving times and what is realistic. We love waterfalls and swing bridges. We would prefer to have a few 2 night stays and if possible not drive more than 4-5 hours per day, to enjoy and relax in an area/town. We are looking forward to driving/hiking the West coast of South Island. I have been reading some fun trip reports(loved the sibling in the South). Here are some thoughts:
Arrive Auckland-spend two nights
Fly Christchurch- drive to Tekakpo
Drive to Tekakpo to Manapouri or Dunedin ( Doubtful sound)
Drive Manapuri to Haast
Drive Haast To Hokitika
Drive Hokitika to Mokihinuri
Drive Mokihinuri to Nelson
Drive Nelson to Christchurch, flight to Auckland is 3pm
Spend night in Auckland, flight to New York 7:45pm....then Boston....then home...yup, very long day. (s)!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Please excuse misspellings, please give advice, go.

I know you will have been traveling for a long time, but would you consider trying to catch a connecting flight to Christchurch (or Nelson) after arriving in Auckland? I'm guessing you'll be arriving in Auckland from Boston-New York early and then it'll take you about an hour to an hour-and-a-half to disembark the jet, go through immigration, pick up your luggage, then go through customs. Instead of staying in Auckland twice, at both ends of your trip, I think you should try and push on through to the South Island. Because once you go through customs, it'll take you about 45 minutes to an hour to get into the city center (depending on traffic). Then what if you can't check into your hotel until 1 p.m. because they haven't yet cleaned and serviced the room? If this is the case, you'd just have to ask them to store your luggage while you wait, maybe go out to breakfast or walk around. (Although, you might be able to avoid this if you can arrange for an early check-in.)

By connecting to the South Island after arrival in Auckland you'd be able to spend a day or two more on the South Island. Because 13 days is not a lot of time for your itinerary, so you could use an extra day or two.

Here are my suggestions.

Day 1 Fly into Christchurch, check into hotel, walk around the Christchurch Botanic Garden, visit Canterbury Museum, take the all-day hop on hop off tram to see the city center and to get around, maybe visit Quake City or Christchurch Art Gallery. Early dinner, early to bed. A lot of new hotels have been built in Christchurch, but one that's been around for a while that I've stayed at is The George and it's about a block and a half from the tram and walking distance to the Botanic Garden and Museum.
Day 2 Second day in Christchurch to get over jet lag, See more of the city, or take a day trip to Akaroa, Kaikoura or Arthur's Pass.
Day 3 Pick up car from Apex, drive to Lake Tekapo, stay Tekapo. Walk or drive up to Astro Cafe at Mt. John Observatory for the view. Stargazing or hot pools at night? At Tekapo, I've stayed at Peppers. It was all right. I've dined at Kohan Restaurant a couple of times. It was all right. Tekapo is small so there aren't many options.
Day 4 Drive to Aoraki Mt. Cook. Walk Hooker Valley Track (three swing bridges), maybe Kea Point Track You have many options here. See: https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...ki-mt-cook.pdf
There are scenic flights and heli-hikes available from nearby Glentanner. Other options include the Glacier Explorers boat ride or kayaking. I've stayed at Aoraki Court Motel several times. It's good, but more so if you have a room with an unobstructed view. It's self catering, so you can bring you own food and cook it. There are no grocery stores in Aoraki Mt. Cook, so you'd have to stop at a supermarket along the way. But there are several restaurants in Aoraki Mt. Cook. I've dined at The Hermitage Hotel. It was good.
Day 5 Drive to Queenstown or Glenorchy (if you want to avoid bustling Queenstown). I suggest stopping in Queenstown because, to drive from Aoraki Mt. Cook to Manapouri would take more than 5 hours. But I noticed you did not mention Queenstown in your itinerary--so maybe you wanted to avoid it? Glenorchy is truly beautiful. As is the road to Glenorchy.
Day 6 Drive to Queenstown. Because Queenstown is closer to Manapouri than Glenorchy. While in Queenstown, you can visit Arrowtown, or the wineries of Gibbston Valley, or ride the Shotover Jet Boat, or tour Skippers Canyon, or take the Gondola. Or simpl go for a walk or visit the city's pretty Botanic Garden. There's so much to do in Queenstown. There are many good accommodation options in Queenstown. Amisfield Bistro (at Lake Hayes), Botswana Brewery, Rata are among its top restaurants.
Day 7 Drive from Queenstown to Manapouri, will take about 2.5 to 3 hours. Depart midday from Manapouri for Doubtful Sound overnight cruise.
Day 8 Return to Manapouri around midday, drive to Wanaka. Stay Wanaka. Many beautiful walks in and around Wanaka.
Day 9 Drive to Fox Glacier or Franz Josef Glacier. Many.walks along Haast Pass. There is a swing bridge at Blue Pools (see walk #10).
https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...y-brochure.pdf
Day 10 Drive to Hokitika. Hokitika Gorge (swing bridge)
Day 10 Drive to Punakaiki. Paparoa NP walks: https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...aiki-walks.pdf.
Is there something special you'd like to see or do in Mokihinuri?
Day 11 Drive to Kaiteriteri, stay Kaiteriteri.
Day 12 Cruise, walk or kayak in Abel Tasman NP
Day 13 Drive to Nelson Airport. Fly to Auckland

OR do the reverse.

Day 1 Fly into Nelson, explore the town.
Day 2 Day trip to Abel Tasman NP, arrange for a pick up from your Nelson accommodation. You wanted to kayak: https://seakayak.co.nz/your-trip/getting-here
Day 3 Pick up car from Apex at Nelson Airport. Drive to Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks, walks in Paparoa NP). You'll pass Buller Gorge Swing Bridge along the way.
https://bullergorge.co.nz/
Day 4 Drive to Hokitika, see Hokitika Gorge. Glow worm dell at night? https://hokitika.org/things-to-do-pt...m-dell-walk-2/
Day 5 Drive to Franz Josef Glacier village. Walk in the forest or do a glacier heli-hike.
Day 6 Leave early to drive to Wanaka, so you have time to walk to Lake Matheson (in Fox Glacier village), before driving through Haast Pass. Haast Pass walks: https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...y-brochure.pdf
There is a swing bridge at Blue Pools (see walk #10). Stay Wanaka.
Day 7 Stay Wanaka. Many fine walks in and around Wanaka, and wineries, too.
Day 8 Leave Wanaka early to arrive in Manapouri by midday for your Doubtful Sound overnight cruise departure. You should be there 20 minutes before your departure, but I would try to be there much earlier.
Day 9 Arrive back at Manapouri by midday. Drive to Queenstown or, if you think Queenstown might be too busy for you, drive to Glenorchy.
Day 10 Drive to Aoraki Mt. Cook.
Day 11 Drive to Lake Tekapo
Day 12 Drive to Christchurch
Day 13 Depart Christchurch.

So if you can add a day or two to your South Island trip, you could possibly see Milford Road and Sound, or spend an extra day somewhere along the way, such as Wanaka or Kaiteriteri.

There is a hotel at the Auckland Airport and several only about a 10 minute drive away.

I always would recommend connecting to the South Island on arrival day, as it's a lost day anyways. Check schedules and car rental rates, you may also be able to fly to Queenstown as well as Christchurch and work your way north. (The airports in both Qtown and Chch are both close in) so you don't have to drive on your arrival day. I would go Queenstown for arrival because it's a more scenic place to rest up and you can also do guided tours from there, such as the Doubtful Sound one you mentioned. One day in Auckland is enough really, allow for flight delays from Christchurch and go early the day before your flight.

Hello Diamantina, yikes you were so kind to put so much information in your note about our upcoming trip. I especially appreciated all the different walks, restaurants and lodging suggestions. The best part is my husband agreed to fly to Christchurch from Auckland ( it took a lot of arm twisting). It makes for more time on SI, so we also eliminated the extra night before returning to the USA and ended up with 15 nights on the SI. After the Doubtful Sound trip the remaining nights depend on lodging availability. Please give thoughts for our current plan. Thank you,
Fly to Auckland then Christchurch.
2 nights Christchurch
2 nights Tekapo/Mt. Cook area
1 night Queenstown (would have liked to travel to Glenorchy, but it just didn't make sense to add the extra time)
1 night Manapuri Doubtful Sound
2 nights Wanaka
1 night Fox Glacier/Franz Josef
2 nights Hokitika
1 night Punakaiku
3 nights Kaiterati

Hello migb, thank you for your input, it really makes sense to fly onto the South Island from Auckland. my husband did agree, I need to find really great accommodations in Christchurch! And I couldn't convince my husband to start from Queenstown as I thought it was a good idea. Please check our new itinerary and make comments about the locations, driving times, things to do, any advice would be appreciated.

Hi 3Gnhgirl. I'm glad you've convinced your husband to continue on through to the South Island. You'll appreciate this extra time.

Your itinerary looks good. I was happy to read that you'll spend three nights in Kaiteriteri. This will give you two full days to explore Abel Tasman NP. I found Wilson's brochure helpful for planning.

Are you planning on going on a glacier heli-hike while in Franz Josef? If so, you might want to spend two nights in FJ and one night in Hokitika. The drive from Wanaka to Franz Josef takes about 4 hours without stops but I'm guessing you'll stop along Haast Pass and at Lake Matheson (the start of the Lake Matheson walk is about five minute drive from the center of Fox Glacier village). Franz Josef also has a kiwi rearing facility.

The drive from Franz Josef to Hokitika will take about two hours. Along the way, there's a white heron (a subspecies of the great egret) sanctuary in Whataroa. While in Hokitika, you can drive a loop that will not only take you to Hokitika Gorge but also Lake Kaniere. Hokitika is also know for its shops selling pounamu. You can even carve your own pounamu pendant. In addition to its glowworm dell, it also has a kiwi centre. And a tree top walk. And nice sunsets.

Biting sandflies can be a nuisance along the West Coast and Fiordland. You might find a few in Abel Tasman as well. They are not active at night and less active in the rain. I don't think you'll have to worry about them on the Doubtful Sound cruise. I've done the Milford Sound overnight cruise twice and the Doubtful Sound overnight cruise once and never encountered a sandfly on their boats or from their kayaks. In late February, the sun will rise at about 7 a.m and set at about 8:30 p.m.

If the night is clear when you're on your Doubtful Sound cruise, make sure to go up to the top deck to look at the stars.

The suggestions about ways to see/ visit areas for wildlife are spot on and I am mapping out where those fabulous suggestions. I think the the biting sandflies are similar to our “ green heads” which appear in August and can literally drive you from being on a beach. Definitely putting in the tree walk, it seems you have mentioned many things we would enjoy doing. Not to put you on the spot, but how did cruising in Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound differ? I really appreciate all your comments and suggestions, more please!

That's kind of you for saying my comments have been helpful. Thanks!

I don't think I'd like your "green heads" but I'm pretty sure they'd love me. I googled "green heads". They look quite a bit larger than NZ sandflies; they must pack a nasty bite. The NZ sandfly is about the size of a mosquito, so they can sneak up on you. Their bites cause itchiness, redness and swelling, similar to mosquitoes. I avoid wearing shorts in areas where I might encounter sandflies. If you encounter sandflies, keep moving because they're slow.

About wildlife you might see "in the wild" along your itinerary. You should see keas (the world's only alpine parrot, considered "nationally endangered") in Aoraki Mt. Cook and possibly as you make your way along Wilmot Pass to Doubtful Sound — they live in Fiordland and are often seen on Milford Road — though I can't remember seeing any along the way to Doubtful Sound. But, just in case, don't forget your binoculars. If you were to do a same-day train trip from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass, you'd probably see them there. I haven't done this train trip and probably never will because knowledgeable and frequent South Island visitor, Melnq8, said much train time is spent going through tunnels But it's a scenic and dramatic road for a self-drive.Keas are known for their intelligence and mischievousness, and are especially notorious for tearing the rubber off windshield wipers. Have a look at this video of their attempt to get tourists to pull over at Homer Tunnel on Milford Road:

Along the West Coast, I'm certain you'll see flightless weka, as they're not shy around humans. Please be careful when pulling into parking lots at West Coast attractions, such as Hokitika Gorge and those in Punakaiki, as wekas often hang around parking lots. A lot of people mistake weka for kiwis, even though they don't look that similar. Kiwis are nocturnal. You can take a tour to see kiwis in the wild in Okarito forest near Franz Josef village. I've gone of this tour, we spent about 2.5 hours in the dark forest, trying to find a rowi (NZ's rarest kiwi). We eventually saw one, but it was dark, it wandered onto the path and then quickly disappeared into forest, so I didn't get a good look. Most NZ zoos and wildlife parks/conservation centres in Auckland, Hokitika, Franz Josef, Christchurch, and Queenstown, will have kiwi in a dark house where they can be seen during daylight hours. They're unique, fascinating birds.

Okarito also has a lagoon with many species of wading birds.It's posible to go kayaking in Okarito lagoon. I have a very bad memory of being bitten by sandlfies on Okarito Beach on a windy day. They're not supposed to bite on windy days!

You will see native birds (such as weka, possibly kaka, another large native parrot) and fur seals in Abel Tasman NP. See: https://www.abeltasman.co.nz/abel-ta...ocal-wildlife/

In general, NZ forest birds aren't as colorful, as, say, Australian or South American birds—though there are some exceptions. However, NZ birds can have entertaining calls and songs. The keas and kakas have loud, startling squawks; you'll often hear them before seeing them. Also, you can't help but notice the tui, a common NZ bird with a dazzling range of vocalizations. You'll find them in Abel Tasman NP and in most NZ cities and towns, with the exception of Christchurch, though they have been re-introduced to nearby Akaroa. However, Christchurch has a popular wildlife reserve/zoo, Willowbank, where you can see some rare NZ native species in captivity.

During your brief stay in Christchurch, you'd have the option of traveling by shuttle to Akaroa, a lovely historic village on the sparsely populated Banks Peninsula with a scenic harbor that's part of a drowned volcanic crater, where you'd have the options of taking a harbor cruise to see Hector's Dolphins, one of the world's smallest dolphins, or a boat trip to swim with these dolphins. You will also see seabirds, including, very likely, Little Blue Penguins, as this area has a large breeding colony. There's also a very rare chance you'd see an endangered Yellow Eyed penguin; normally YEPs live farther south. Akaroa is popular with cruise ships, so if this would put you off, please check their cruise ship schedule. From what I can tell, there's only one cruise ship scheduled for February, on the 23rd. When the passengers of a large cruise ship visit, I imagine Akaroa can feel strangely crowded (I've only been there in winter when it was calm and quiet). It's also worth checking Christchurch's Port of Lyttelton schedule as some passengers take shore excursions to Arthur's Pass, Waipara wine region, Aoraki Mt. Cook, or Akaroa. But I suspect most cruise ship passengers disembarking in Lyttelton just explore Christchurch city itself.

From Christchurch, you also have the option of taking a day tour to Kaikoura, where you can go on a whale watching cruise. But it's farther than Akaroa and the whale watch boats must head out to the open ocean, so these boat trips can be rougher than the those that sail out from Akaroa, and are subject to cancellations due to rough ocean conditions. I also think these tours are expensive, nonetheless, it's an option. My first scheduled whale watch trip, in 1997, was cancelled because of rough seas My husband and I swam with Dusky dolphins instead as these trips don't sail as far out. The water was cold even with a thick wetsuit, but it was a brilliant experience to be surrounded by equally curious dolphins staring back at me. I finally went out on a Kaikoura whale watch trip about 6 years ago but became horribly seasick (big solid boat, but also big swells), so much so, I could barely muster interest to get off my seat to look at the whales. I eventually did drag myself out to to the deck and saw two magnificent juvenile sperm whales, a blue shark, and many seabirds. This said, I wouldn't do it again. Kaikoura also has accessible, large fur seal colonies. It's stunningly located between the mountains and the sea.

In Doubtful Sound, you will see fur seals, seabirds, probably bottlenose dolphins (Doubtful Sound is home to more than 60 of them), possibly rare Fiordland Crested penguins, and, occasionally, whales .

There are many opinions on the Internet comparing Doubtful and Milford Sounds and which might be better. The hands-down winner tends to be Doubtful Sound.

Doubtful Sound is bigger, more remote, and quieter than Milford Sound. Doubtful Sound trips also include an interesting and scenic boat ride across Lake Manapouri and a bus ride along Wilmot Pass. But the trip to Milford Sound also includes Milford Road, which is one of the South Island's most scenic drives. The road is narrow and winding but, if self-driving, you can make stops and take short walks along the way, so it can be potentially a more personal experience. I understand during the day, especially in peak season, Milford Sound can be busy with cruise ship visitors, scenic helicopter flights and many tourist excursions. This being said, I didn't notice any of this commotion on my overnight cruises. In fact, it was tranquil. It was wonderful to kayak quietly along the shoreline after the crowds had disappeared and a few hours later stargaze from the top deck of the boat in absolute silence.

I wrote the below report, which I never posted, about after my September 2014 Doubtful Sound overnight cruise with Real Journeys. Before and after my trip I based myself in Te Anau, which was bustling with Australian tourists vacationing during school holidays— not that I minded being around so many people in Te Anau. Busy Te Anau was a contrast from the cruise, which wasn't even a third-full. There were only 16 guests aboard the boat.

While spring in NZ is the perfect time for viewing blossoms and listening to bird song, it's not the best for weather. It's a very much a transitional period between winter and summer. Winter often brings us cold clear days and bright blue skies down South. Spring, however, brings more rainy and cloudy days so this colored my September experience—-so don't worry about my below comments about the weather, as you and your husband will be coming at the best time for dry, sunny weather. This being said, it's still one of the wettest places on earth where you can get rainy, brooding weather anytime of year, though it's less likely in summer. In February, days will be long so you'll have more hours to enjoy the stunning landscape. The sun will stay high in the sky for more hours and the fiord shouldn't be as dark as it was when I was there.

Also when I traveled to Doubtful Sound, the company wasn't yet offering two-night cruises. Now they do. I would have preferred a two-night cruise as Doubtful Sound is so large. Also, it's a privilege to be in one of NZ's more remote wilderness areas; I would have enjoyed spending more time there.

I compared the two fiords toward the end of my report:

My September 2014 Real Journeys Doubtful Sound Overnight trip departed from Manapouri at noon and started with a 45-minute cruise across gorgeous Lake Manapouri to West Arm, followed by a 45-minute bus ride on a curvy narrow road over Wilmot Pass, before boarding the cruise at Doubtful Sounds' Deep Cove, where there's a hostel and outdoor education centre and field station for the University of Otago's Dept. of Marine Sciences.

From Deep Cove's dock to the open ocean it's a distance of around 40.4 km. On the first day (late afternoon) of this overnight trip, we sailed to the open ocean to view a large seal colony spread over several rocky outcroppings at the fiord's mouth, known as the Nee Islets (near Secretary Island, one of NZ's most important predator-free conservation islands). It was cold, windy, grey and drizzling. We then returned to the sound's interior, finding a calm and sheltered spot, where we could either kayak or take a small boat ride.

I close to kayak. Because Doubtful Sound is so large I felt as if I was paddling and getting nowhere. But perhaps I was going nowhere, as I'd fallen far behind the others. The water in Doubtful Sound is murky brown--it's often described at "tea-colored". This color comes from freshwater (from abundant rainfall and the power station) stained by tannins from decomposing forest plant litter. While the top layer of water is composed of tannin-stained freshwater, the water beneath it composed of denser saltwater from the sea.

Dinner was buffet style, with roasted meats, salmon and chicken, side sauces, salads, and desserts. I don't eat lamb, pork or beef, so I tried to stick with chicken and salmon, but they ran out of salmon before I could get any. The wine selection was limited, but affordable and good.

Doubtful Sound is not actually a sound, but a fiord (or fjord), a long narrow inlet with steep sides created by glacial erosion. It, and Lake Manapouri, contain predator-free island sanctuaries (like Secretary Island) harboring rare endemic species. An on-board Nature Guide contributed to our understanding of the ecosystem's unique fauna and flora, with an after-dinner lecture and commentary during the cruise. After dinner and the lecture, I went up to the top deck to look at the stars, as the skies had cleared. The Nature Guide, who'd also gone up to the top deck, asked the skipper to turn off the upper deck lights, which made the stargazing even better. Whether you overnight on Doubtful or Milford Sound, don't forget to check out the stars.

I traveled solo to Doubtful Sound, so I booked a single bunk in a quad share, but as the boat was far from full, I lucked out and got a room to myself and slept soundly. There was never a wait for the shower, and I only had to queue for the toilet once.

The second day of the cruise began at about 7 a.m., or just after sunrise (this was late September). Doubtful Sound branches off into three "arms." We turned off the motor and sailed quietly into one of these "arms", stopping to listen to the sounds of "silence" for about 10 minutes—there was no talking or snapping of photos, just the sound of birds. We also cruised around Seymour Island, trying to spot Fiordland Crested Penguins as it was their breeding season. We encountered bottlenose dolphins, but no penguins.
You can find of a map of Doubtful Sound showing its "arms" at this link: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Doubtful_Sound_/_Patea

The native rata was in bloom, its bright red blossoms standing out against the verdant forest.

After searching for penguins, we began our return to Deep Cove, arriving at its dock before 10 a.m. By noon, we were back in Manapouri.

There's so much to see in Doubtful Sound, the overnight trip didn't seem like enough time, or, to put it another way, it was almost too much for such a quick trip. I found the overnight Milford Trip more relaxing, less hurried. I suspect most would NOT agree. I'm also prone to motion sickness, so I wasn't comfortable being trapped at the back on the bus during the Wilmot Pass trip twice in 24 hours. We made a couple of stops enroute to the fiord, which helped, as we could get out, breathe some fresh air and stretch. The first was a brief photo stop at a waterfall, the second at a power station tunnel. To make matters worse, I got bitten by sandflies on the bus! And only on the bus, not on the fiord (pure luck).

My advice is, if you are prone to motion sickness or claustrophobia, try to sit at the front of the bus. You might also consider seasickness medication for the night of the cruise, as the ocean at the fiord's mouth can be rough. You shouldn't need it for the morning portion of the cruise, as you will be in sheltered waters.

Overall, I was happy to have taken this trip as Doubtful Sound is unquestionably beautiful and interesting, and I enjoyed the Lake Manapouri cruise as much as that through Doubtful Sound. It's such a beautiful lake, no wonder New Zealanders rallied to save it (the original plan for Manapouri Power Station would have raised Lake Manapouri by up to 30 metres, and merged Lake Manapouri with Lake Te Anau).

How does Doubtful Sound compare to Milford Sound? Milford Sound is a little more than 16 km. from the dock to the open sea, much smaller. You don't cover as much area on your cruise. But, in my opinion, it is no less beautiful, with iconic Mitre Peak and gushing waterfalls that you can cruise right up to, and it's surrounded by extremely high, seemingly vertical, bedrock walls. I think of it as a little jewel box compared to the larger overflowing coffer of Doubtful Sound. The advantage to going on an overnight trip on either MIlford or Doubtful is that you'll feel as if you have the entire fiord to yourselves. You don't get to kayak as far on MIlford, but it's just as serene, quiet and peaceful, and you'll spend just as much time in the kayak. If self-driving to Milford Sound, you'll be back at the dock at 9 a.m. or so, with plenty of time for stops on the way back to Te Anau. For instance, you can stop at Main Divide on the way back to hike to Key Summit. Being able to explore Milford Road on your own at a leisurely pace is a big plus. (Though Milford Road is often impassable in winter and occasionally at other times of the year.)

Being larger than MIlford Sound and hemmed in by the tall fiord walls and big islands, Doubtful Sound was dark and brooding even when the sun came out (as it did on the morning of our cruise). Perhaps it's sunnier and brighter during the longer summer days. Milford Sound was brighter, more open. But maybe this is because I went on the Milford Sound overnight trip during a sunnier time of year.

This is what I wrote after my second Milford Sound overnight cruise:

My husband and I have done the overnight Milford Sound trip twice. The first time in 1997, when we still lived in Northern California; we now live in Dunedin, New Zealand. Though we'd read several guidebooks and many articles about NZ, back then, none described the cruise or the fiord in great detail. Also, none of our friends had been there, so we weren't sure what to expect. We thought it would be longer and figured the overnight trip would allow us to see more of it (in reality, the return cruise only takes 1.5 to two hours).

During our first overnight cruise, the weather was foggy, grey, rainy, a bit gloomy. But the fiord was quiet and peaceful, with no other boat to be seen. Imagine having one of the world's most beautiful places nearly all to yourself (the boat was only about half full). There was time for long conversations with fellow passengers, time for a leisurely dinner, restful sleep, and then breakfast looking out at the sound. We were to fly back to Queenstown, but our flight was cancelled (weather problems) so we returned by coach.

We repeated this overnight trip in April 2013 because we once again wanted to wake up in Milford Sound, though we briefly considered staying at Milford Sound Lodge. We traveled in April because this is also the optimum time for seeing fall colors in Central Otago and Mackenzie Basin, which we were also traveling to.

The late afternoon departure of the overnight trip conveniently allowed us to take our time driving from Queenstown to MIlford, to stop for photos and short walks (Mirror Lakes, the Chasm). While the early morning return to the dock on the following day gave us plenty of time to hike to Key Summit before checking into our Te Anau accommodation.

On this second Milford Sound overnight cruise, the weather was largely sunny and clear. Because we left at 4:30 p.m., most of the fiord was already shady. But it was still gorgeous. There were two boats going out, the Mariner and Wanderer. We took the Wanderer (shared bathrooms) because it was cheaper and smaller. The boat was only about half-full, so some who'd signed up for quad rooms ended up with private rooms (including a young couple on their honeymoon).

We moored overnight in a small bay, where we couldn't see the other boat (in fact, after we left the harbor we wouldn't see them until we neared the end of our trip the next morning). Like last time, we were offered a choice of a small-boat nature cruise or an hour-long kayak trip. My husband went on the boat and I kayaked. Slowly paddling on the calm water. in no hurry to get anywhere was a treat. Three hardy passengers went for a swim, which they seemed to enjoy.

Dinner was better-than-simple as it featured a delicious venison stew. Afterwards, we went out on deck to look at the clear night sky. Wow! So many stars! We slept peacefully without the sound of neighbors snoring or flushing toilets. The next morning we sailed through the slightly foggy fiord to the ocean, passing crayfish boats and fur seals. On the return, the fog had cleared and a big bonus--a pod of dolphins swam in our bow wave, including one baby dolphin and its mom.

We had a great cruise, followed by a terrific hike to Key Summit, which is clearly one of the South Island's most spectacular day hikes.

I guess it's a personal preference and often colored by what kind of (unpredictable) weather you get. Sometimes there is absolutely no view.

I have done Milford twice (once after walking the Milford Track) and Doubtful once (day trip). I think the scenery at Milford is far more impressive IF you get to see Mitre Peak. Doubtful doesn't have that drama. It is a lot like cruising one of the arms of Lake Te Anau, for example.

My best Fiordland Penguin encounter was walking out the sandfly-infested Monro Beach north of Haast, and seeing a few surf into the beach and waddle up on shore. We did see a few at the end of the Doubtful Sound cruise as well. Timing is important.

<<I don't think I'd like your "green heads" but I'm pretty sure they'd love me. I googled "green heads". They look quite a bit larger than NZ sandflies; they must pack a nasty bite. The NZ sandfly is about the size of a mosquito, so they can sneak up on you. Their bites cause itchiness, redness and swelling, similar to mosquitoes. I avoid wearing shorts in areas where I might encounter sandflies. If you encounter sandflies, keep moving because they're slow.>>

I am unable to add anything to the wonderful advice here about your itinerary 3Gnhgirl, but I can offer a tip with the problem of sandflies which we picked up from our lovely hosts in Wanaka, namely to use roll -on deodorant on any bites. It works like a dream.

I'd recommend packing a strong antihistamine such as Zyrtec (Cetirizine). You can check with your MD before you leave as to the maximum dosage per day. If allergic to the bites you will need it. ( Some people who claim they are never bitten just don't react to the bites). An antihistamine cream to top it off isn't a bad idea. I was handing it out like candy on a few of my overnight Fiordland treks.

mlgb, you wrote, "I have done Milford twice (once after walking the Milford Track) and Doubtful once (day trip). I think the scenery at Milford is far more impressive IF you get to see Mitre Peak. Doubtful doesn't have that drama. It is a lot like cruising one of the arms of Lake Te Anau, for example.
"My best Fiordland Penguin encounter was walking out the sandfly-infested Monro Beach north of Haast, and seeing a few surf into the beach and waddle up on shore. We did see a few at the end of the Doubtful Sound cruise as well. Timing is important."

I agree, Milford Sound has the drama, or what some call the "wow factor.".

Reports of "sandfly-infested" Monro Beach is precisely what's kept me from going there, but it must have been a thrill to see those penguins waddle ashore. I envy you. The only time I've ever seen a Fiordland Crested Penguin in the wild was near the saltwater swimming pool at Dunedin's St. Clair Beach. It'd gotten lost and wandered off track. It had done this twice. The second time, it had to be rescued It was taken to a safer Otago Peninsula beach, where it was assumed it would swim back to its more southerly home. I was told that, instead, it was killed by a NZ sea lion. I heard this from a trusted source, though this news never appeared in our local newspaper. I hope this was not the case; I hope it found its way back to Fiordland. Nonetheless, I almost cried when I heard this. Each summer, the Otago Peninsula's penguin rehab facility, Penguin Place, rescues several lost Fiordland Crested Penguins.

annhig, thanks for the tip. When it comes to sandfly bites, anything is worth a try!

<<annhig, thanks for the tip. When it comes to sandfly bites, anything is worth a try!>>

We were amazed when it worked, truly, Diamantina. But it did, every time.

what a sad story about that penguin. Although we did a [day only] trip to Doubtful Sound we didn't see any penguins there but we did see little Blue penguins at Oamaru, just by sitting on the beach at dusk and watching them come ashore to find their burrows. That was definitely my best ever penguin watching experience.

Diamantina I wondered if Penguin Place was still around. I thought I had read that some dogs got into it. Wonderful place, I did the tour where you were led around in the camo-netted trenches, with walkie-talkies, e.g. "Howie#1 is headed for nest". Have also seen a few of the Hoiho penguins walk up onto the beach in the Catlins. They are one of the rarest penguins, if not the rarest, along with Galapagos and Fiordland.

3Gnhgirl, these are good tips from mlgb and annhig, the West Coast's Monro Beach and, in case you get bitten, deodorant, which many travelers already have in their toiletry bags.
Here's a link to the DOC web page about Monro Beach.
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...aast-township/
At the bottom of this same web page, you'll also see info about Cape Foulwind Walkway, near Westport. It's a lovely little walk that wouldn't be too far out of your way along your drive from Punakaiki to Kaiteriteri. By the way, Kaiteriteri is a small place, so you might want to stop in Motueka's New World Supermarket, for provisions. Kaiteriteri has a pretty good general store, but it might not have everything you'll want or need.

mlgb, I was sad to read that Penguin Place was put up for sale last year. I just looked up their web page yesterday and it appears that they are still offering tours, though they might have not updated their web page. At some point, I'll call because I wouldn't mind visiting them and supporting their good work. I really don't know more than this.
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/s...-penguin-place

I must have taken hundreds of photos of YEPs over the last 11 years, in Oamaru, at Moeraki, on the Otago Peninsula, at Curio Bay, and a few other places, but these are two from Penguin Place's rescue facility, taken in Feb. 2014. They're not particularly artistic or sweet images, but are illustrative of the difficulties NZ penguins and rescue organization face. The situation was so dire that year, they had to expand the rescue area. They relied on entrance fees and donations, including fish from local fishermen. Situated on a working sheep farm, they built an impressive operation, with dozens of nesting boxes. Visitors made their way through the property on walking paths, camouflaged trenches and viewed the birds through penguin hides in order to not disturb the penguins.

Elm Wildlife also does good work and offers a great tour.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c26a73eae8.jpg

Above. Photographed in Feb. 2014. Penguin Place rescue and "hospital", where 80 rescued penguins were being treated and were recovering. 69 of these were chicks rescued from Catlins beaches, where they were found underweight and starving. They wouldn't have survived without help. As I recall, PP was also treating and rehabilitating a few Little Blue, Fiordland and Snares penguins.

In January 2018, Dunedin's Wildlife Hospital opened at Otago Polytechnic, staffed by veterinarian Dr. Lisa Argilla, students from the school's veterinary nursing program and many volunteers. Before this, the most severely injured or ill penguins had to be flown up to the North Island for emergency treatment. I hope I've got these facts are more or less correct! The bottom line is, a lot of folks in Dunedin and along the Otago (especially in Oamaru and Moeraki) and Southland coasts have worked hard to save penguins and other wildlife--and certainly the Yellow Eyed Penguin Trust and DOC deserve credit, too. A lot volunteers, including schoolchildren, have also put a lot of work into Taiaroa Head's Blue Penguins Pukekura.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e74bab176.jpg

Above. Photographed in Feb. 2014. This is "Tahi", the sole surviving chick of Penguin's Place's resident breeding pairs (viewed and photographed through wooden slats from a penguin hide). It was a really tough year (disease, warming seas, lack of food, and barracouta attacks) for our local YEPs, also known as "hoiho".

Thanks for all of that info!

Thank you all for such thoughtful well stated suggestions for our trip to the South Island.

Diamantina, once again your knowledge, links, and videos are great sources. We will be going to Akaroa and probably taking the nature cruise. Your trip report was so descriptive about both Sounds (Fiords) but we had to make a choice and am sure just being in New Zealand will be a "wow" for us. I have made many notes about places to stop, wildlife spots to visit, and tips for a trip to the market before we get to Kaiteriteri. I did splurge on our hotel in Christchurch, George Hotel.

Annhig: appreciate your tip about roll-on deodorant, will be sure it's in our bag.

Migb: will add antihistamine/cream to out bag for the "just in case".
All hints are gratefully accepted, you should see my spread sheet putting your suggestions in places we will be! I am beyond excited for our trip, the 17 days will fly by. If, by chance you need advice for New England, USA, I will do my best to help out.

3Gnhgirl, I think you've chosen well. Since you'd like to avoid driving on those first two days--until you get over fatigue and jetlag, here's a link to an Akaroa shuttle: https://www.akaroabus.co.nz/
There's this one as well: https://www.akaroashuttle.co.nz/#shuttles
For nature cruises, in addition to Black Cat Cruises there's Akaroa Dolphins. There are a couple other companies offering cruises, but they're smaller and don't offer as many trips.

The George is only an 8-minute walk from the Canterbury Museum (free admission) and the adjacent Botanic Garden (free admission). Christchurch Art Gallery (free admission) is a 4-minute walk from the Canterbury Museum or a 9-minute walk from The George. You might want to try and view the old Christchurch Cathedral (in Cathedral Square), which was severely damaged during the city's 2011 earthquakes and is now being rebuilt. I haven't been there in years so I'm not sure what you'll see. It's about an 8-minute walk from the Christchurch Art Gallery. When the Christchurch Cathedral was damaged a transitional cardboard cathedral, designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, was constructed nearby. The tram might be really convenient for you on that first day, as you could be pretty tired.

Diamantina, you are reading my mind, as I have been looking at ways to go to Akaroa the second day we are in Christchurch. Will look into your suggestions. When I was reading about the CNterbury Museum the article indicated the Museum is under a huge renovation and is either closed or not many exhibits are open. Do you know anything about that? I’m looking forward to walking around the Botanical gardens especially if my husband wants to rest and I have energy. The tram is definitely in my list for the first day also. Is the Hill walk far from our hotel? We are interested in the Cathedral so that is a good suggestion. I’m gathering that Christchurch is a walkable city and have the option of the hop on hop off tram.
Question on clothing for February. I know it will be warm, shorts and short sleeve tops. But when we are hiking and the Doubtful sound cruise should I need warm hat and light gloves, possibly a down vest? I can pack layers but not sure of the temperature swing and am not finding it in my reading of weather charts. Also, how reliable are the cell towers for GPS in a car? We will get the GPS with the rental car but was curious about coverage and needing detailed maps. I will print out route maps….if needed. I’ve seen travelers have made reservations for hiking different tracks, what does that mean? Are there certain specialty food dishes we should try? Again, thank you for your help.

The scenic but winding drive from Christchurch to Akaroa takes about an hour and a half. If you anticipate still being highly fatigued and jetlagged--too much so to drive, it'd be best to take the shuttle. This way you can both look out at the views instead of one of you having to keep your hands on the steering wheel and eyes fixed on the unfamiliar road ahead. I see the Akaroa French Connection shuttle departs from in front of the Canterbury Museum at 9 a.m. and leaves Akaroa for the return at 4 p.m. This should give you time for the cruise, to look around the village and/or have lunch.

Yes, this area you'll be in, central Christchurch, is very walkable. But I agree the tram for sightseeing would be a good idea, because after you walk around the vast gardens, your energy might wane a bit, especially if it's warm or hot (bring a hat with a brim). I'm guessing you'll be jetlagged but also somewhat energized by arriving during bright daylight hours and motivated to explore this new destination. When I land in a new time zone, I try to adjust to the new time zone as soon as possible. If I arrive in the morning, I'll struggle to stay up until it's the normal time locals go to bed. The Botanic Garden is lovely--roses, dahlias, hydrangeas and many other flowers will be in bloom. The Avon River flows through/around the gardens. The Botanic Garden also has a visitor centre and cafe.

I didn't know the Canterbury Museum was under renovation, but I'm not surprised. Since the earthquake, Christchurch has been upgrading, rebuilding, and working on lots of new, ambitious projects. Since admission is free and as it's next to the Botanic Garden, I'd go in and have quick look at what is open. I like their Antarctic collection. By the way, near the Christchurch Airport, you can visit the International Antarctic Centre, if this topic appeals to you. This link will tell you why Christchurch is the main information hub for Antarctica in NZ.

Sorry, I don't know about the Hill walk. My guess is you'd probably have to drive or take a bus to the start of this walk as central Christchurch is flat. Maybe you're thinking of the Port Hills? If you're interested in panoramic views, Christchurch also has a gondola. I've not been on it, but their web page has more information about their shuttle as well as information about the public bus. The views look great.

Will you be renting a car from APEX? I see The George is about a 12 minute walk or 4 minute taxi ride to APEX in downtown Christchurch, that is, if you don't want to pick up your car from APEX at the airport. If you pick up from APEX at the airport, you'll already be near SH1, the motorway that will start you in the direction of Tekapo. SH1 will take you to SH79, which will take you to SH8, which runs through the center of Tekapo. GPS would be useful for getting around or in and out of towns and cities, but you'll rarely need it outside of cities as we have few roads, (and most have just one lane for each direction), and everything will be well-signed along your route. Here's a link to a South Island touring map that you can zoom in on. https://www.newzealand.com/assets/To.../p23573_23.pdf

The only cities you'll be in are Christchurch and Nelson, with the latter two being more of a large town. To me, the tourist resort town of Queenstown also feels like a city because despite being small, it's busy and has lots of businesses and hotels. I'm sure your GPS will work there. The South Island has only a few cities or large towns; in-between you'll go through rural areas and by wildernesses/national parks, lakeshores, coastlines, and a few small towns/villages (Manapouri, for example, only has around 220 residents). Christchurch is the South Island's largest city in population, with 389,300 residents. There are only 1.2 million residents on all of the South Island. Whereas, the population of Auckland is 1,652,000.

Even though you'll have GPS and the roads will be well sign-posted, I suggest you review the routes between your destinations before leaving on your trip (you were probably planning on doing this). I always do this before a trip. Once in Alicante, Spain, GPS directed my husband to drive down a stairway. On another couple of occasions, in Figueres and Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, it had us driving around in circles, and directed us to the wrong exit and entrance ramps. Even here in Dunedin, GPS has guided us on some crazy, not very direct routes. I'm sure you've had similar experiences.

Please watch this driving safety video from the NZ Transport Agency: In many US states you can turn a right turn at a red light providing it's safe to do so and isn't strictly prohibited. You can't do that here, no left turns at a red light ever. Also, pedestrians do not have the right of way except at zebra crossings or when they have the green light to cross.
The NZ Transport Agency has also prepared this info booklet about driving in NZ. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/reso...nz-english.pdf
This link will tell you of any road closures and roadworks that you can check on the morning of your drives: https://www.journeys.nzta.govt.nz/traffic

For Doubtful Sound and, for our climate in general, bring a wind and waterproof or water-resistant jacket because NZ's weather is unpredictable and changeable. It'll also come in handy on any other boat rides you might take. The weather in Aoraki Mt. Cook is highly changeable, and you don't want lack of proper clothing limiting what you can do. If you want to go out at night to stargaze or walk to a restaurant, you'll need a jacket. Lake Tekapo and Aoraki Mt. Cook are part of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. I don't think you'd need a down vest, but I can't speak for how easily you feel cold. I easily feel chilled and have never felt the need for a down vest or jacket. A middle layer, like a thin long-sleeved fleece or merino wool top with a hood and zipper that fits over my tee-shirt and under my lined wind and waterproof jacket gets me through our coldest days, something that can be rolled up small and fit into a daypack or that can be worn instead of my outer jacket on warmer days. Even a non-bulky sweatshirt would do. It can be very windy in summer, making a sunny day feel cold. Hopefully, you'll mostly enjoy windless days or only light breezes. Kiwis often wear shorts, even in winter. When hiking, I prefer zip off cargo pants of a quick-dry material, long pants that can convert into shorts. I have some made of a material that also repels insects. They're like these.

On each morning of your trip, you might want to check the Metservice website. It won't just tell you the weather prediction, but also how many layers to wear, and if you'll need windproof layer. It'll give you the tide times, pollen forecast and UV level.
https://www.metservice.com/national

I think you'll have probably many of these items I mentioned in your wardrobe already, but, if need be, you can buy them here. Local brands that have their own retail outlets include Kathmandu and Macpac (I only buy when their things go on sale). Here, merino wool, fashioned into thin but warm and breathable tops, are popular. I always bring a cap and gloves when on trips around NZ on which I plan to hike. I often bring waterproof pants, too.

Just my personal opinion (which might just be wishful thinking), but I think this coming summer will be on the warm side as we are already enjoying many warmer-than-average days. We are currently experiencing La Nina weather patterns, which bring warmer and drier weather to the South Island's East Coast. Inland Otago (Queenstown, Wanaka) is generally warm in summer. In rare instances, NZ can also experience summer ex-tropical cyclones, which start as tropical cyclones in the South Pacific. This coming summer, there is a slight chance of an ex-cyclone, but it's expected to potentially occur between November and January. In February 2018, ex-cyclones Fehi and Gita caused extensive damage throughout NZ, especially along the South Island's West Coast and in the Tasman-Nelson district. So it's always good to be prepared.

With respect to seafood. I'd suggest you have Green Lipped mussels. I like them simply prepared, steamed in white wine, garlic and butter. NZ farmed salmon is King Salmon (also known as Chinook), which is native to the North Pacific but farmed on the South Island. You'll be able to visit a salmon farm after you leave Aoraki Mt. Cook, High Country Salmon. There's also a shop for Mount Cook Alpine Salmon overlooking Lake Pukaki, near the turn-off for SH80/Aoraki Mount Cook Road. The most popular NZ white fish is Blue Cod, but I've noticed it's been selling for quite high prices. I've been told this is because fuel is so expensive right now, the boats aren't going out as much. Bluff oysters, which are native to NZ, are popular, but their season starts in March. You might be able to find Pacific oysters, which were introduced to NZ from their native Japan.

In terms of meat, well, lamb will certainly come into your mind as you drive around the South Island. There are plenty of sheep! There are also a lot of cows. The names of certain cuts of beef are different in NZ. Scotch filet is ribeye with the bone removed. Eye filet is filet mignon. NZ is the world's leading exporter of venison. It's lean and tender. The medallions are the best cuts. Most of that served in restaurants will be farmed, pasture-raised, free-range venison, but some will be wild venison. The venison comes from a European red deer species.

In terms of fast food, fish and chips and meat pies are popular. Have a look at these links for starters:
https://www.tasteatlas.com/new-zeala...ips/wheretoeat
https://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/exper...ps-whats-yours
https://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/exper...in-new-zealand

You'll find farmers markets in most towns and cities. These are most often held on Saturday or Sunday mornings, some are only open in summer. They're fantastic. This is a link to Farmers Markets New Zealand (but there could be something wrong with the link). https://www.farmersmarkets.org.nz/
Here's a link to a produce seasonality chart:
https://www.produce.co.nz/seasonality-chart/
You'll be here during strawberry and stone fruit season. Sadly, you'll just miss cherry season. The cherries of Central Otago are fabulous. There are a couple of large produce stands in Cromwell, which you'll pass through on your way from Aoraki Mt. Cook to Queenstown.

Some of the best Central Otago wines (especially Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sparkling wines) can be found in Cromwell as well as in nearby Bannockburn, Lowburn, Pisa, and Bendigo. Between Cromwell and Queenstown, you'll pass through the Gibbston Valley, where you'll also find more wonderful wineries. Quite a few of these wineries have restaurants that take full advantage of the local produce.

In terms of desserts, Kiwis love their pavlova. There is an ongoing rivalry between NZ and Australia as to where pavlova orginated.

Not a dessert, but definitely sweet, NZ honey is of a very high quality. You've probably heard of NZ manuka honey, but there are many other varieties worth trying. My friends in the US tell me they love the rata honey I bring them, but maybe they're just being gracious..

One of the top dining spots in Queenstown is Amisfield Bistro in Amisfield Winery, near Lake Hayes. It's a set menu and you must reserve ahead. Burger fans in Queenstown line up at Fergburger.

When mentioning seafood, I left out NZ crayfish. I was thinking as you are from the US East Coast, you've probably had access to lobster and mght not be impressed with NZ crayfish--nor the prices. But you might you might be curious about it all the same.

One of my favorite seasonal fruits is feijoa, which was introduced to NZ from South America. Feijoa season begins in March, but there's always a chance the season could start earlier.

Here's a webpage about traditional Maori foods: https://www.newzealand.com/nz/featur...l-maori-foods/

This is a link to NZ's Cuisine Magazine: https://www.cuisine.co.nz/

Hi, good catch on our car rental from Apex being close to The George Hotel, I am going to change our pickup from the airport to town location. Which brings up the question, I see there are two routes to Tekapo, one being a bit longer. What are your thoughts about taking State Highway #77 towards West Melton, Passing Rakaia Gorge, past Mount Somers, and having a stop in Geraldine?
Thoughts on star watching from Lake Alexandrina instead of the pricey Observatory? We would go up to the Observatory during the day because it’s worth the time.
The web page metservice.com is awesome! I have it installed on both my phone and iPad. Wish we had something here in the states. We also have crazy GPS stories…going around the same block many times🥺
We love checking out Farmers markets , regular grocery stores and trying new foods, such as your pavlova, feijoa, and crayfish. I know crayfish are popular in US Southern cooking, gumbo is a big dish in the South. I need to Google how to eat one! Lobsters are pricey depending on the time of year and when they are soft or hard shell. My daughter and I like a splurge of lobster every so often.
It’s a shame we won’t get to your area, from what I’ve read Dunedin is very picturesque, many things to do but maybe next time!! We did book a glacier boat tour from the Hermitage Hotel and going to book the Akaroa boat tour, either with Viatour or French Connection bus tour. Your advice is well heeded, again, thank you for your time.

3Gnhgirl, just a quick clarification. The crayfish that is commercially harvested, sold in supermarkets and seafood shops, and served in restaurants is actually a saltwater, or marine, red rock lobster, though is it referred to in NZ as crayfish or its Maori/Te Reo name kōura.. To make matters more confusing, NZ also has freshwater crayfish also referred to as kōura. I don't believe freshwater kōura is commercially harvested.
I will write more soon.

Hi, I looked into the crayfish and it wasn’t what I was thinking, but now know more about it. Apparently, the meat comes from the tail, it is worth trying for sure. I love mussels and prefer them to clams, and look forward to eating them when I’m in NZ. The pavlova looks delish. I understand the ice cream at the Patagonia Cafe is worth trying.

There is no lack of great ice cream in NZ. I also recommend Whittaker's if you are or know chocoholics.

I understand the ice cream at the Patagonia Cafe is worth trying.

It certainly is. As is the hot chocolate. And this chocoholic wholeheartedly seconds the mention of Whittaker's.

We can't pass a milk store (convenience store) in NZ without stopping for ice cream. And if you're near Cromwell, don't miss the fruit ice cream sold at the fruit stands. They mix your choice of fruit into vanilla ice cream. Another of our many NZ visit traditions.

Gnhgirl, regarding your route to Tekapo, you should take the route that most appeals to you, depending on your sightseeing priorities. I'm not familiar with SH#77. If I've been on it, it would have been too long ago. But I'm sure Melnq8 can advise you on this as she's more extensively explored Canterbury and the South Island in general. I'm sure I've read her comments and recommendations on walking Rakaia Gorge as, one point, I stopped into the Ashburton Tourist Info office to ask about it and pick up a brochure for this region--though I never followed through by actually visiting. I think I must have picked up on the idea from one of her trip reports.
In the meantime, you can look at this You Tube that someone has kindly posted:

You don't need to take a tour to view the night stars. All you need is to be a in a place with little light pollution on a clear night with preferably with not much moonlight. There are stargazing apps out there that will assist. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/reso...oundabouts.pdf
However, if you'd like to see the night stars through a telescope, then a guided night sky tour is necessary, and I agree it doesn't have to be from the pricier observatory on Mt. John. My husband and I took their less pricey Cowan observatory tour. We loved it as we were part of a smaller group and as we're easily impressed, but I'm sure there are others who would opt for the pricier tour from the larger observatory. You also have the option of a guided night sky tour from at Aoraki Mt. Cook. I would have a look at reviews. We all approach such experiences with different expectations.

You listed Lake Tekapo among the places you wanted to visit in your original posting. What more had you planned on doing there? Some travelers just briefly stop by to view the lake, snap photos of the Church of the Good Shepherd and the bronze sheepdog statue, and/or drive up to Mt. John to admire the 360° panorama or have a snack or drink in Astro Cafe; it's also possible to walk to the top, though it takes a lot more time. Other travelers stay longer to view the night stars from the observatory or from Tekapo Springs, or to just spend more time by this lake. The Mackenzie Region Lakes Tekapo, Ohau and Pukaki are known for their turquoise waters caused by glacial "flour" (fine silt particles caused by glacial erosion), with the color of Pukaki being most intensely cyan. I'd say Lake Pukaki also spectacularly reveals itself, as the highly scenic Aoraki Mt. Cook Road/SH80 runs parallel to Lake Pukaki's banks (there's a scenic must-stop along this road at "Peter's Lookout"). Eventually, as you get closer to Aoraki Mt. Cook village, Lake Pukaki becomes the Tasman River and then Tasman Lake, which I believe is the same lake you'll be on for your Glacier Explorers boat ride.

You noted that you will spend two nights in this region (known as the Mackenzie region). Do you plan on spending one night in Tekapo and the next in Aoraki Mt. Cook? Or do you plan on just a short visit to Tekapo and then continuing on to spend two nights in Aoraki Mt. Cook? I'd opt for two nights in Aoraki Mt. Cook because, as I mentioned in my earlier post, its weather is highly changeable. It could sunny in the morning and grey and rainy in the afternoon. More time there increases your chances of fine weather. But, then again, I don't know your exact plans for what you would like to see and do--and maybe you are still trying to decide!

I hope you'll give yourself enough time in Aoraki Mt. Cook to also walk all or part of the Hooker Valley Track, one of the South Island's most spectacular day-walks. Considered an "easy" track, with only a mild vertical gain, it meanders through a dramatic valley flanked by high mountains and takes you on swing bridges (which, I remember, you very much enjoy), wooden boardwalks, and views of a murkier glacier lake at its terminus. It's said to take 3 to 4 hours return, but I think this time must be take into account many scenic stops.

My experiences of traveling around the South Island are limited but I've developed a fondness for a few favorite places I'd gladly return to. Despite its popularity and fickle weather, I really enjoy Aoraki Mt. Cook. (It's also not that far from Dunedin.).

Before you change your APEX booking, keep in mind it's only open from 8 a.m. to 4:29 p.m. You'll save on having to get to the airport, but you'll also have to drive through the city center to get to the state highway, which might not be so bad. I'm not familiar with Christchurch's current morning traffic patterns. This will also be your first time driving in a New Zealand city, but I'm sure GPS will get you through it. Please review NZ's basic road rules before your trip and have a look at this link: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/reso...oundabouts.pdf

Will write more very soon.

I've done the routing through Geraldine, Methven and Windwhistle when I was playing the golf courses including the ridiculously difficult Terrace Downs. The restaurant that I liked in Geraldine is no more but Barker's food hall is still there. It's a little more interesting than the main road Hwy 1 which is pretty boring, but just about the only place on the South Island that you can actually drive the speed limit.

Thank you migb and Diamantina for your input. I bet those golf courses were challenging! I think we will take the more scenic drive rather than the main road, Hwy 1. I have changed our overnight reservations from two nights in Tekapo to one and one in Mt. Cook at the Heritage Hotel. The suggestion of bad weather gives thoughts about 2 nights in Mt. Cook...need to really consider what we are going to do in Tekapo, the must see areas as you suggested are on our list and just being there might be enough. Our little Mountain, (compared to your mountain heights), Mt. Washington, 6,288' is often cloudy 300 days of the year! So, I do understand how the weather impacts viewing..
.I like the idea of Cowan's Observatory for night sky viewing and might take a chance of not booking until the last minute with the hope of either of the two nights for some clear weather...
what some thoughts on underwater rafting in the Charleston area on the Nile River/rain forest area?
I am looking at the Able Tasman NP area, Wilson's brochure and what are some thoughts on the different kayak/hike tours? I am thinking either the Walk Tonga Quarry to Medlands Beach, including full Vista Cruise from Kaiteriteri to Totaranui before a walk or Split Apple Beaches, Kayak and Walk, both look fabulous! And, I fully intend to try the ice cream/fruit across the various areas we are in!

The Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve is not confined to Mt. John Observatory, so I think any of the other stargazing tours with telescope access are likely to provide a similar experience. When I did the Cowan Observatory tour many years ago, there weren't many other options, now there are several more. I had a look at this link: https://www.mackenzienz.com/explore/...rophotography/
And, after looking at some of the current options, I think if I were to do it again, I would opt for a stargazing tour that would provide a full refund if the weather was less than optimal. Again, a clear night on or around the time of the new moon is best. When the sky is darker, you'll get better contrast and see more stars. In addition to cost, I might also consider the size of the telescope used, though, unless I looked through each of them side-by-side, I probably wouldn't notice the difference between a 14-inch and 9.25-inch telescope. So, I agree, unless you're really into astronomy, I don't see why you should pay more for a stargazing experience on Mt. John. https://nzpocketguide.com/the-best-t...n-new-zealand/

I googled Mt. Washington and had a look at its Wikipedia page. What a gorgeous area! I also caught that part about "erratic weather"--yes, similar to Aoraki Mt. Cook, which soars to 12,220 ft. Aoraki Mt. Cook NP has 19 peaks over 9,842 feet. Kiwi Sir Edmund Hillary, who was one of the two men (the other being sherpa Tenzing Norgay) to first climb Mt. Everest practiced here on these mountains.

While both of your Abel Tasman choices look fine, I'd opt for "Walk Tonga Quarry to Medlands Beach, including full Vista Cruise from Kaiteriteri to Totaranui" because this way you'd get to see more of the coastline With the second option your're looking at, "Split Apple Beaches, Kayak and Walk", it seems they'll only take you as far as Anchorage, so you wouldn't see the Abel Tasman NP coastline north of this. I know it's subjective, but I found the prettiest area on the cruise between Kaiteriteri and Totaranui to be Awaroa Bay, and we were lucky to be able to cruise into the inlet because it was high tide (this isn't possible at low tide). Awaroa Beach in Awaroa Bay used to be privately owned but was put up for sale in 2016, at which point, donations secured through crowdfunding purchased Awaroa Beach so that it could be added to Abel Tasman National Park. You can read about it here:
https://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/exper...t-kiwis-bought

You have two full days in Kaiteriteri. So maybe consider doing a kayak trip on a separate day to your cruise and walk. You don't have to use Wilson's, there are numerous kayak operators that offer both guided kayaking plus walk trips and unguided trips out of Kaiteriteri and nearby Marahau. For instance (just to name two, there are many more):
https://www.rrkayaks.co.nz/guided-to...tours-full-day
https://www.abeltasmankayaks.co.nz/guided-kayak-tours/
There are also a lot of water taxi companies that offer an alternative to Wilson's. In December 2019, I spent three days doing day walks on the Abel Tasman track and based myself in Kaiteriteri. I found if it most practical to buy a 3-day Explorer Pass with Wilson's. Because I walked the track solo, I used my walking poles on the first day, but after seeing how easy track was, left them behind on the second and third days. Besides, the poles aggravated my carpal tunnel.

I've lived in NZ for 11 years, though my husband and I began traveling from CA to NZ in 1996, making numerous trips over the years. I believe we first visited Abel Tasman NP in 1997 or 1998, as part of longer South Island trip-it was our second or third trip to NZ. I'd so looked forward to kayaking in Abel Tasman NP and had clipped numerous articles from magazines and newspapers, which I'd kept in a manila folder, about this experience. All the photos in these articles showed bright blue skies and placid turquoise waters. But when we finally did it for ourselves, as part of a small-group guided kayaking trip, we did so in a rainstorm, which seemed to appear out of nowhere (as the morning had started off dry and sunny). We got soaked and had to put up our sails as it became hard to paddle. Our group sailed up to a beach, where we were offered snacks and warm drinks. The guide asked us if we wanted to walk into the park but most of us were wet and chilled so opted to just end the trip, and got picked up by water taxi, which returned us to our starting point. The only exception was a Kiwi couple who had the proper clothing to continue. This was my introduction to NZ's quickly changeable weather. For future trips, I learned to better prepare.

NZ is known for being at the forefront of extreme sports, but I was perplexed by your question about underwater rafting. I looked it up and discovered you meant Underworld Rafting. I looked at the video on their website and it looks fun and fascinating. Do it! I wouldn't do it as the idea of getting all kitted up in a wetsuit and carrying an innertube uphill doesn't appeal to me--but I'm in my late 60s.I took the easier option of visiting the subterranean glow worm caves in Te Anau. But the experience you've chosen looks infinitely less busy and more adventurous and exciting.

Just remember, each time you add a new adventure to your trip, you'll be taking away time from other potential activities. Maybe you can cut down your time in Hokitika to one day and night. I think it'll be enough.

Happy New Year Everyone!!
Wow, a bit more than one month to our trip and I am soooo excited. I have 2 friends who are traveling in the South Island almost at the same time as my husband and I, and it is so fun to compare notes about each others trips. All trips are very different, one is on a hike/kayak adventure trip, the other is cruising around the North and South Island. But, my thanks to all of you, who have contributed so much to my itinerary for the trip.
We are currently having very strange, so warm, no snow weather it is weird.
So, my questions to all of you is how is your weather? I'm planning on mostly short sleeve shirts and layers for warmth, raincoat for sure and going to use the washing machines for sure as we travel with carryon's. What might be blooming for trees, shrubs and annuals? Will there be birds migrating to the North? We are bringing binoculars and look forward to our Merlin app to help us identify your birds for us.
Thank you in advance.
PS I am skipping the "underwater" rafting...Lol on me.

If you are interested in birds, I recommend the "Albatross Encounter" excursion in Kaikoura.

https://albatrossencounter.co.nz/

If you are driving through the Homer Tunnel there will probably be a Kea waiting there. The more reliable spot is around the Arthur's Pass Cafe.

If you click my name you can see the trip report I submitted. As noted, restaurants are VERY busy and understaffed but don't overlook the option of cooking at your lodging assuming you are booked into motels, they nearly all have outfitted kitchens and bbq grills. (Always with a small bottle of milk or milk capsules to go with tea and coffee, and sometimes also a few biscuits aka cookies). Might be a good idea to buy a cooler or bring a collapsible one so you can carry other perisables. Cafes or bakeries are good places to stop in the morning to grab some sandwiches or pies. Also some of the gas stations have a good range of grab n go.

If you decide to take the inland route, detour through Sheffield for the famous pie shop.

Mint, Folk & Co was a very good restaurant in Twizel (not Tekapo).

Always expect rain. It should not be very cold next month but it can be very windy so it might feel colder than the temps. But if you are from Boston you will think it's summer. Oh yes, don't leave the rain jacket/umbrella in the car, no matter how nice it looks when you stop. A small but sturdy collapsible umbrella is a wise thing to carry. Unless you have VERY top end and tested under a shower raingear, it may not keep you dry.

Hi, migb, thanks for sending me to your trip report, I made a reply there.
So, as I get closer to our visit, I will add a cooler and collapsible umbrella to buy when we are in Christchurch ( a bit concerned about our baggage weights....good idea since we will have many nights to figure out dinner. We are booked into both motels, and Airbnb so will have access to cooking facilities.
Now, truth or myth: Air New Zealand is VERY strict about weight and size of carryons...
Customs has been known to take tourists shoes/boots to clean them upon entering NZ to keep out foreign diseases/plants, etc. , you have to wait about 30 minutes to get them back then can go on....
Air New Zealand is really bad about losing luggage. I am thinking of checking our carry on luggage in New York to Auckland, because of weight but.... I know we will have to check our carryons for the Domestic flights in NZ....

I flew Hawaiian Airlines international and most recently just one domestic flight on AirNZ, where I checked my main bag. My cabin bag is a dufflel, no wheels so always comes in underweight. No one weighed or measured it, that is more likely with wheelie cabin luggage. One option if you are concerned about them losing bags might be to get one of those Air Tags. I clean my (waterproof) hiking boots well and wear them on the plane to cut down on weight and pack a pair of slippers and flipflops, (on the plane the boots stay under my seat) . The attendants come through the cabin when you arrive and spray.

PS since all motels have laundries, there is no need to pack a lot of changes of clothing, three pairs of pants, quick dry, a warm jacket, fleece vest and a rainjacket, thermal underwear, a few merino and quick dry long sleeve tops and t-shirts, lots of socks, which will often get wet. No need for dressy clothing or shoes. Note that NZ is also a good place to buy fine merino clothing, although it is expensive. My one souvenir was this top bought on Stewart Island at the Glowing Sky store (half off due to buttons being placed not to spec) https://glowingsky.co.nz/products/merino-shaped-henley

"PS since all motels have laundries, there is no need to pack a lot of changes of clothing, three pairs of pants, quick dry, a warm jacket, fleece vest and a rainjacket, thermal underwear, a few merino and quick dry long sleeve tops and t-shirts, lots of socks, which will often get wet. No need for dressy clothing or shoes. Note that NZ is also a good place to buy fine merino clothing, although it is expensive. My one souvenir was this top bought on Stewart Island at the Glowing Sky store (half off due to buttons being placed not to spec) https://glowingsky.co.nz/products/merino-shaped-henley[/QUOTE]"

Fabulous souvenir. .so, call me naive but your packing tips are for February? New Zealand summer?

The prices listed in restaurants include GST (tax). Also, we don't tip in restaurants. Finally, when you get set to pay, you don't ask for the check but just go up to the cashier and pay.

Yes, be prepared for rain or sun--so rain jackets as well as tee-shirts and sunscreen. The weather can change from day to day, even hourly. So, it's important that you check Metservice. NZ's weather is highly variable. A few days before Christmas, a tornado ripped off a house's roof and damaged other homes in Alexandra in Central Otago, which is a little more than an hour's drive from Wanaka or Queenstown. Earlier, in mid-December, there were floods in parts of the North and South Island. On Christmas, much of the country enjoyed sunny, bright blue skies. On the Wednesday after Christmas, temperatures reached 30C (86F) in Wanaka. Now there's flooding in the Coromandel, a top summer holiday destination; travelers have had to cancel their Coromandel vacations. There are also warnings for heavy rain at the top and West Coast of the South Island. You're more likely to encounter fine weather while you're here, but there are no guarantees. And sometimes holiday makers will have to change their plans at the last minute. Again be prepared for out-of-the ordinary weather, but please don't worry or expect the worst that can happen.

If you have the great misfortune of unexpected stormy weather along your route, check the NZ Transport Agency for delays and/or road closures. https://www.journeys.nzta.govt.nz/

Here in Dunedin, we've had mostly dry, sunny and warm weather, but we've also had a few days with intermittent rain and fog. But even on the rainy days, it's been very warm.

Personally, I never use an umbrella here in NZ (the wind turns them inside-out), but rely on my gortex jacket. Though it can be uncomfortable if it's warm and humid. I could see how an umbrella could come in handy for towns, but couldn't imagine carrying one on a walking track.

Yes, NZ has strict biosecurity rules. So clean any shoes or equipment that you have used on a walking tracks, wilderness areas or farms. Clean your shoes well, making sure to get rid or any soil or seeds that might be stuck between the grooves. If you do this, you will not have delays. Please review this passenger arrival card.
Attachment 7936
Even within NZ, there are sometimes shoe sanitation/wash stations at the start of a track, particularly on the North Island, where kauri dieback disease is present. You won't be spending time on the North Island, but this shows you how NZ tackles such biological threats to the environment.
https://www.kauriprotection.co.nz/ab...protect-kauri/
There are similar precautions for visiting pest-free islands.
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...-free-islands/

I just got back mid December. The packing tips are the same for the South Island all year. One pair of pants zipped off to shorts, that was mostly handy for washing just the lower muddy legs, while still wearing the shorts (over leggings one day). Maybe a long sleeved running shirt instead of a merino top. I prefer the thin merino to synthetics even in summer, they are not hot and hold up to rain and not being washed. I also find them less clammy in sweat. Of course cotton takes forever to dry but you can wear the t shirts indoors (or to sleep in). My base layers are polypro which also dry quickly and have patterns so I can just were the top by itself. The sun is so strong that I always wear long sleeves outdoors, but I have a thin quick-dry that I wear with a tee underneath if I think there will be no rain (that's when you carry the umbrella, LOL).

As for umbrellas we used them often and they fit in a jacket pocket. Rain is not always accompanied by wind and even when it is, if a small umbrella if sturdy should not flip inside out. We were very happy to have them (sometimes sharing as we hustled to shelter). If you do have an excellent waterproof outer layer then you can get away without one. I also find them handy for keeping rain off of camera gear and have figured out how to take a photo from under an umbrella when necessary.

NIWA, NZ's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research, just published its seasonal climate outlook for January through March. This is about as close as you'll get to a longer-term weather prediction. Not many surprises. It says it will be warmer and more humid than usual. So be prepared for daytime temperatures in the high 70s to mid 80s on many days of your trip, though it could get even hotter inland. You'll most be on the South Island's "West Coast, Alps and foothills, inland Otago, Southland". Here's what NIWA is predicting for that region.

• Temperatures are very likely to be above average (70% chance). More easterly-quarter winds and marine heatwave conditions will result in high heat and humidity at times.
• Rainfall totals are most likely to be below normal (45% chance). Due to La Niña, more frequent offshore winds will likely result in extended dry spells, such as during mid-to-late January. Low rainfall may also occur around the hydro lakes. The region should remain aware of the potential for an ex-tropical cyclone or atmospheric river, particularly as La Niña eases over the next three months.

Technically, Fiordland is considered part of the "Southland" region, but weatherwise, it's unique in that it gets the highest rainfall in the country.

If you'd like to read the full report by NZ's climate experts, which also describes the weather outlook for the other regions you'll be visiting, it's here:
https://niwa.co.nz/climate/seasonal-...023-march-2023

Greetings Diamantina and migb, having such up to date information from both of you is giving me a really good idea of what to expect for our trip. The weather report looks good for our time there, and we will be prepared for inclement weather. The restaurant information is good to know since we will be dining out sometimes, tipping, asking for the check, amount of food. I have been making my wish list of hike from the www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation. Such a good informational site for approximate time and distances. I had a panic moment the other
day when my NZ visa app was not transferring to my new phone, oh no! But had already photocopied the verifying email and the panic was gone. Whew! I will try to post pictures and updates every couple of days for a trip report, but it will be rudimentary for sure....suntan lotion has been ordered and for now I am enjoying our first dusting of 2 inches of snow...take care. I'm impressed about taking pictures while under an umbrella...