We loved the road to the Jain temple - wonderful rural area...

Your Jodhpur B&B looks fabulous!

The Mehrangarh fort was my favorite in India, but it is a bit "mountain goat" in its levels. I had forgotten until you mentioned it. You probably made the right decision to just hang out. You have more forts to see before you rest : )

Those super-soft pashmina's that you bought at Maharani Art are seriously wonderful--and a great value for the money. I bought two when I was there and they fold up into the size of a handkerchief. They can be a scarf or a shawl. I always toss one in my purse folded in a sandwich baggie when I go out in case I need it later. Great for traveling and crazy warm. Whoever is getting them will be so happy (and if it is Karen, that's excellent : )

You are soon on your way to Jaisalmer. I am awaiting your report as that is one place I have never been and your reports are so fabulous. Also Bikaner--I'm so impressed you are staying in Bikaner. I remember seeing Bikaner and the gorgeous Havali's in the movie Hari Om.

You are having such a great trip. I'm so happy for you!

Great report Bob, oh how I wish I could buy some of those scarves or just go to that shop....

Mon Nov 21


While at breakfast we talked with a couple from PA and near the end of the conversation we discovered she is a fodorite and that we had corresponded earlier during our trip planning. Not sure of her exact name but it is ~ Magster….

Following breakfast Ragu, our local guide, and Mr Sodha, the day’s driver, arrived in a jeep for our trip out into some local villages---about 25 kilometers outside the town. After a bumpy ride in the jeep we left the paved road and headed cross country on dirt/sand tracks. Shortly we arrived into a very small community where about 80 families turn pottery by hand on self-powered wheels... The extended family was very welcoming and we went right in to their compound. I think 3 generations live there---very simply. We watched a fantastic demo by the father, a master pot maker. He quickly turned 3 very nice vessels. We inspected the small wood kiln and saw some of his finished work… K bought a pumice stone for her feet and he also gave me a small diety for my car---50 Rs.

Our next stop after a 10 minute ride down more trails was a Jain farming family. We walked around their compound, had a turban demo---9 meters of cloth. Following this we watched the daughter-in-law prepare some chapatti for their lunch---bread. We gave the kids some candy we had purchased.. After this we were invited to take part in an opium ceremony. Our host took a 2X3” piece of dried opium and pounded it, then added water and then ran it through some sort of cotton purifier a number of times… Following this some was poured into our hands to drink. It had a bitter musty taste, but no affect.

Our next stop was at a durry shop (hand made rugs---this is how they spell it. We had no intention of buying but did end up with 2 rugs which we are having shipped. The brothers who own the shop are well known internationally and have entertained people like Richard Gere, prince charles, American ambassadors, and many others. I wiped my feet on the rug r. gear sat on to watch the demo and buy a number of rugs.
They had new solar panels which the Rajasthan authorities give to artisans so that they can work longer hours, There was no electricity in these villages.

Following this we returned to Ratan Vilas where we stayed put. Dinner was very nice. We sat next to an elderly OS couple who were hard of hearing which made things loud… They moved to OS 30 years ago from England to avoid babysitting grandchildren… A bit extreme—they were academics---probably Cambridge types??

Tues Nov 22


Quick breakfast and check out for Krishna’s p/u about 9:30. He took a back road out of Jodhpur so we got to see more local country, including some huge reservoirs. We saw antelope and deer and tons of birds.

As we drove along the countryside started to change as did the soil. We passed through the “desert”, a flat somewhat arid countryside for many miles before entering a more grassy area where the cattle loved the grayish/green grasses. We were getting closer to Pakistan all the time and pretty soon we began to see lots of military, both on the road and bases along the road, including a huge radar installation. At one point about 20 large modern tanks passed by on huge trucks. There were many convoys. Remember this is a very unsteady area and has been for many years.

Eventually we were able to see the huge fort in Jaisalmer, our destination—the golden city for the soft yellow/brown color of the stone which many buildings are constructed from. This is a medium sized town with the only living fort---over 1000 people live in the fort today.
We squeezed thru one of the city gates and then thru an even more narrow gate into our haveli—Nachana Haveli. Decendents of the royal family run this 13 room haveli. The interior is richly decorated and stone is the major building material. Our room, #107, Is smallish but has a domed, high stone block ceiling, a draped bed and stone walls… Oddly, no windows, but we don’t mind that. There is a large courtyard outside our door which we share with 4 other rooms.

At 5:30 we drove outside town to an overlook where we watched the sun set. We had dinner in the roof top haveli restaurant---ok but not fab as we were expecting better based on many internet reports.
We walked around a bit and looked into the non-interesting shops. Plenty of cows joined us… We were lured into one shop by “ali barba” and we had a pleasant chat with him.


Wed Nov 23



Breakfast on the roof this morning after a nice sleep. The electricity went out about 7AM and has remained out most of the AM…

K went off with our guide about 9:30 for a tour of the fort. I am again feeling a bit out of sorts so have hung back. At 11 they returned to pick me up to visit the painted haveli’s, but I have decided to stay put. She will take tons of pics.


BH---not sure if it worth the trip to come here... need to think a bit about it so we can discuss later..

Hi Bob, Your trip sounds really interesting. I've not been to the areas west of Delhi that you are visiting, but might consider them for my next trip to India.

It sounds like you are passing up some of the touring. Are you losing interest in the sites because of the length of the trip, the strenuous and long travel days, or is middle age catching up to you? In any case, hope you feel better and hope to hear more about your trip at Joe's.

I'll be interested to hear your final take on Jaislamer and whether it is worth the effort. And, is the fact that you aren't feeling well perhaps coloring your perspective? Just wondering.

Bob, how did you enjoy Thanksgiving in India? We were on the road to Shapura Bagh on Thanksgiving in 2009.

I also wanted to mention that the fort in Jodhpur has an elevator, so that visitors can ride straight to the top, no climbing, then walk down leisurely.

Bob - waiting to hear more about your thoughts on jaisalmer. We loved it. Hope you get the opportunity to tour some of the havelis there and just to wander around town. Will you be going out into the desert by camel?

We paid for the elevator at the fort in jodpur and decided not to use it after renting the audio guides. We didnt think the climb was very strenuous as there's lots of opportunities to rest while listening to the guide which was quite good.

Happy thanksgiving.

I don’t remember exactly where I left off but I think we were about to go for the camel ride. Karen had a nice time with the guide today touring, both the fort above our hotel (hotel is inside the fort walls), and later the painted havelis. In the AM she did visit a cotton shop with the guide which was located in someone’s living room. She did find a couple of shirts that she wanted and some skirts for the grands.

I joined them at 4:30 after a rest up day, sleep and computer, and we drove about 25 kilometers outside town for our camel ride. We had decided not to ride the camel (been there, done that), but rather to ride on a camel cart. In retrospect I am not sure this was a good idea, BUT… We and our closest 1000 other tourist friends headed out on a dirt road along the plain to sand dunes overlooking the sunset. I think I liked it but I am not really sure. We did not stay for the final sunset, as we had done something similar the night before, but rather returned to our SUV for the trip back to town before the other 998 left. It was touristy, but a good experience.

We asked Lalu, our wonderful guide, for a suggestion for dinner and he suggested Desert Boy’s Dhani, a vegetarian garden restaurant, which was excellent. More on that shortly.

But, before dinner, I had told Lalu that perhaps we should visit the silver shop he uses (read: gets commissions from). He was of course delighted to take us there. Krishna drove us as far as the SUV could go and Lalu called for a tuk tuk which would wind us thru the very narrow twisting and turning streets for about 10 minutes until we reached a beautiful Haveli style house where BD Soni lives with his family and operates Jewel’s Haveli out of a showroom in the basement. The general neighborhood is the silver and gold smith working area: Chandi Para (91-9414149352).

We were warmly greeted by BD and his son who were sitting on white covered mattresses on the floor surrounded by silver, really almost a museum setting. He is a 7th generation silver and goldsmith. He has an international reputation as well. He talked to us about history and the gem and metals business for about 5-8 minutes and then asked what we would like to see. He explained about 6 different areas on the walls that contained distinct types of merchandise. K said she had some interest in “old” silver. Big mistake. Out came a santa’s sized bag of jingling silver bracelets, etc, which were literally poured out in front of us. K sorted through the perhaps 250 large pieces and decided they were not her style—too big, too bulky, too ornate…. “Do you have smaller?”…. what a stupid question… Mrs Claus’ bag was dumped out in front of us. OMG, another 300 items… No interest in those either, and they like the former were just pushed aside. How about new things?....
First was a tupperware box about the size of two shoe boxes. These items were in plastic bags. As she sorted through them she began to find things of interest. Items were plain silver, silver with stones, silver with enamel and/or enamel and stones. Pay dirt. She began to pick out items she liked… OMG, time to leave town. After overload overtook her and she had perhaps 10 items of interest, she asked to see earrings, her favorite item. And Mr Tupperware was not far away. Think 500-750 pairs of lovely earrings. She again picked out several, some of which matched items on the other tray she had selected.
While waiting, I took a stroll around the walls and selected what I thought to be a good looking silver bracelet with gold decoration on it. She liked it and added it to tray 1.

Further review allowed us to narrow the items significantly. Time for pricing (fixed price). The 8-10 items were priced higher than I had expected and immediately the bracelet I had chosen was eliminated by me. Remember, I already bought her xmas present at Gem Palace in Jaipur. She ended up with several items the two best of which are a flexible dragon headed bracelet with extreme detail on the heads, and a broach/pin of an elephant head with tiny ruby eyes and pave smoked diamonds on parts of the head and body….

This was tons of fun, and did not break the bank. Thr tuk tuk had waited for us and took us back to Krishna, from where we drove to the restaurant. Lalu joined us for dinner and chose the items: Cashew curry (yum), veggie korma, desert beans and seeds, naam, rice with pineapple and other fruits, beer, water and the sweet ball dessert. 1009 Rs+



Thurs Nov 24


No Thanksgiving for us here in India. We were joined at breakfast by the German/Swiss couple who we had met the afternoon before in our courtyard.

At 9:30 we checked out and LK was waiting for us as we headed on a day long journey to Bikaner, our last major stop before we return to Jaipur and Delhi.

Along the way we again passed plenty of military, more cows than you can imagine, water buffalo, gypsies living by the side of the road in tent/huts. We made a slight detour and visited the Ramdeara Hindu Temple. This is a huge pilgrimage site in the Spring each year. It was a bit fun actually. We visited a bangle shop and purchased several sets of outrageous bangles, including one set for LK’s wife. I stayed out of the temple cause I do not like to take my shoes off in these places, as I have a small cut on one heal. Karen went in with LK.

We had some lunch and an emergency toilet stop before we made a quick stop at the migration site for thousands of Siberian Cranes… It was quite amazing.

On to Bikaner.. We entered a very dusty city. We picked up the local tour manager along the way, who presented us with flowers, as have each of the others. We worked our way around to the old city, where it got slightly less dusty, again weaving in and out of narrow lanes, having to stop a couple of times to move parked motor bikes. Eventually we pulled up in front of an ornate haveli, The Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, our most expensive heritage hotel at $135. It is a real gem with an interior courtyard with a balcony on all sides. Our room is #46, the best in the house we were told. Upon entering you find yourself in a wide and long entrance hall with decorative painted walls and lovely furnishings. The immense bedroom with a painted king bed is off this hall. There is a full modern sofa, two comfortable gilded baroque side arm chairs, a raised area with a dressing table, plus tile floor and subtle stenciled walls in gold tones. A large oriental rug is under a gilded coffee table. Two large Carrier a/c units are in the bedroom. Venetian glass wall sconces are high on the bedroom and hall walls and a large chandelier is in the front hall as well. It is all very old world.

Live music is performed by a single musician in the courtyard during dinner, which is served in an elaborate dining room (of ballroom size) located on the 2nd floor and open on one side to the courtyard.

We enjoyed a fair veggie buffet (our only choice) for dinner---less than 1000 Rs/2. After dinner we sat in two of the ornate sitting rooms on the first floor for a while before retiring to our ground floor room to watch a rerun of dancing with the stars…


Fri Nov 25 ‘Black Friday’


The breakfast buffet was equally uninspired but the toast was excellent. Our sleep was excellent in a mammoth room. LK came for us at 10 as arranged, but the guide was slightly late (strike 1). We made our way thru the narrow lanes of the old city and finally reached normal roads… We were headed 25 kilometers outside town to the infamous “Rat Temple”. K had brought throwaway airline socks for us to wear. We knew we had to visit here, even though we were a bit freaked out. They want you to be barefoot or for 10 Rs they will provide shoe covers, but they were way too small for me. From the outside the temple looks completely normal. As you enter, you begin to see a rat here and there. In the first large room a man is pouring milk into a very large pan. Rats scurry here and there. One runs across your foot, or you almost step on others… Food is here and there. The rats move quickly… Groups of rats hover here and there. Soon you come on two huge pans with milk side by side. Both rims of the pans are covered with rats standing on their hind legs and drinking from the pans. All so organized and calm. Food is scattered here and there on the floor, and yes of course there is rat poop, but it is not bad. Rats hang off gates, and fences, and walk amongst the decoration…

We did not see the white rat, although we did look. Enough of this madness, we are out of here…. This would cure the Days and Wades, our grands, from wanting more hamsters!!

From the rat temple we headed back to town for a good lunch just opposite the Junagarh Fort --(at Gallons)… Before getting there we visited yet another Jain temple with fab painting and carving, and climbed to the top for a nice view… After lunch K and the guide visited the fort and LK and I hung out in the SUV (as I had done at the temple---I am forted and templed out!!…

Next on our agenda was a visit to the grounds of the former royal palace, the Lalgarh Palace, now divided into 2 lux hotels. The guide told me that if I told a small lie he probably could take us inside which K really wanted to do. So, I pretended to be a travel agent.. the director of rooms took us on a ground floor tour… This was the more lux of the 2 hotels, The Laxmi Niwas Palace… WOW… We visited the game room with a small pool table and the walls lined with animal heads and skins in quite good condition, seeing most are about 100 yo. Next was the bar which has similar décor. We then visited a swank meeting room. Then 2 mammoth heritage suites (#108 was fab, rack rate 30,000 Rs). The 2nd was the king’s suite which was elaborate but smaller than 108. Finally we visited 3 dining room, all of which were very elaborate and traditional.


From there we headed out of town again, this time to the camel breeding center. We have seen many many camels over the last few days so this was only moderately interesting. What was fun was seeing over 300 of them returning from the feeding fields at the end of the day, heading straight for the watering troughs…

Lalu had told us not to miss the unique Bikaner desserts, one almond and one cashew, so we stopped at Agarwal Bakery to buy Dhokla… They are sweet but not sickly sweet, are cut into a diamond shape and have an edible silver foil on one side.

Dinner was at the haveli---I had soup only -2 (squash with fresh scallions) and K ate the soup and a few bites from the very uninspired buffet. She feels a bit odd tonight.

It was a very long and sunshine filled day. We are both tired. THIS COMPLETES OUR SIGHTSEEING….

Off to Jaipur in the AM for one brief night.

in answer to your questions, I think we are just tired... We have moved slowly, but could have slowed by one day more in each city with a day of rest..

I have had stomach problems for the whole trip, K has not felt well since yesterday. We cope fine, but honestly look forward to leaving India soon. The last 3rd of the road trip today almost put me into orbit: roads, or lack of; rude drivers; bumps; dust; animals; trucks; etc---they all put me over the edge.

We have seen way too many temples and forts, imo, but others do love this. I am aware of the elevator at that fort, but age and weight encourage me to go slow and be selective. I much prefer the lives of current residents, their markets, etc---but this is very difficult with cow, donkey, goat, dog, and bird s--t everywhere, plus the developed rudeness of locals who just push forward and bang into you constantly...

I am so glad we returned here to India however... I have a more enhanced view than after our 11 day trip 6 years ago.

i will try to write more about jaisalmer tomorrow and ask K to contribute too. I have our guide's info and he is A++, plus he is fleunt in German for those of you seeking that language.

ewwww, rat temple, I'm shuddering at the very thought. Skipping that if I ever get to India. Have really enjoyed reading all your reports!

Love your report over the last few days; I want a scarf and I want to see Santa's bags of silver! Great description of the rat temple.

I thought a month-long trip would be pushing it, but not if I'm living it through your posts!

This has been an amazing recounting of your travels. I am very impressed that you have covered so much ground and seen so much. It is very understandable that you would be feeling somewhat tired, if not exhausted.
Rat Temple (ugh, You are both braver than I!)
One thing that I admire is the "feel" of your narration. You have captured the "grime", dust, bumps chaos, I even think I detect the smells!
I have personally long held a desire to visit India, however, don't have a very strong consitution, and, border on being a clean freak, so think that though exciting and unforgettable, India would not suit me very well.
Thanks so much Bob and Karen for a most thorough and enlightening report. May the rest of your travels be safe and you both feel well.
Sue

Wonderful report, Bob.

About the rat temple..."We knew we had to visit here, even though we were a bit freaked out." LOL. Your great description of the temple is enough to satisfy my want.

I agree...after 3 weeks or so of being on the road, one needs time off...chill day i call it. Looks like that will be at the Marriot in Jaipur...and chill time in Delhi with shopping for K. Bravo, young man for going thru a long trip. Sleeping in your own bed will feel like a king....soon.

smells... that is a non-issue for us... we do not find that it smells here. In fact, we have always identified a certain smell to thailasnd (not bad) but in India we do not object to any smell.

In fact we must be getting totally used to life here as we don't find it filthy really, just untidy. many of the people could use a good scrub.

IMO, if India is to proceed as a world power they need to overcome two things: litering and the cow issue. Then, they will have a truly open mind and be ready for top class citizenship.


I will catch up the report tomorrow when we are in delhi. Rght now we are in the brand new Marriott in Jaipur and it is a lovely hotel. I have a classic GM story to tell you, a la Gpanda, but that can wait.

I thought it was all coming to an end last night however. As you know K felt out of sorts for the last 24+ hours. Well, last night it all fell apart when she became violently ill, could not shaking, etc. It was 2:30AM and she finally threw-up and the shakking stopped. By 7, it had all passed and she is 100% this AM, and requesting two dropped eggs on toast... In my mind i rearranged the rest of the trip, but alas this will not be necessary.

We are on to Delhi at 10AM with LK in charge.

Ahh - memories of Bali transformed to India (Bali belly = Delhi belly or whatever...). K's symptoms were mine with the same results followed by a fairly rapid recovery afterward. I believe that it was food poisoning in my case...

Karen was very lucky. I remained sick for a week although I never threw up. You were both certainly braver than me - going to the rat temple. Our rat experience at the train station cured me of my desire to go there.

For me 9th day of the trip (usually) is the day to get sick, sometimes violently and then it passes quickly although my insides feel rough for another day or two. Almost always I have to plan a chill day about that time of the trip. And it does not always rhyme...like Bali belly (for example,name of the city does not rhyme with belly). Luckily, I am fine for the rest of the trip.

Bob, are you pining for news from home? Good news (that is, if you are a meechigan fan)....Michigan beat Ohio State 37 to 34 today.

where is MI??