Suggestions for India please.
 

This will be our third trip to incredible India, 22 days on the ground in November 2018, the flights are booked in/out of New Delhi.

I’ll be using the services of Tim at Indian Panorama for booking road travel (car and driver), some accommodation and flights/trains. I also want an element of wing it.

Here’s a rough draft of the itinerary, and some following questions.

Delhi 1 night (arrival near midnight)
Car/driver
Shekhawati region 4 nights
Bikaner 2 nights
Pushkar 2 nights
Bundi 2 nights
Jaipur 2 nights

Fly to
Amritsar 3 nights

Car/driver
Chandigarh 2 nights
Rishikesh 3 nights

Train to
Delhi 2 nights


The route and chosen cities are flexible, we’re cool with one or two night stays, travel light and like road trips. On a previous trip we’ve been to New Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, (of course there’s always more to see) and though I’d dearly love to revisit Jodhpur it seems like a lot of extra driving, and what would I cut .....aargh. Is there a nature experience, or conservation area worth squeezing in...and again what to cut ? I’d like more countryside rather than all cities, any thoughts on where to do that ?

With accommodation we’ve become more flexible over the years and prefer small, friendly, family run places that are clean, safe and well located. Where have you stayed that you felt comfortable like at home ?

Our main reasons for returning to India ? We love the people, the culture, the history, the built structures and the food. Please share with me any ideas or experiences (like cooking schools, organic farms, animal sanctuaries, tribal villages etc) that you’ve enjoyed. I’ve had some fantastic trips with help from the Fodors crowd, and have high expectations for this one !


Thank you so much.

Some places I haven't visited on that list, but I did visit the Shekhawati region, and while I enjoyed it I think four nights might be overdoing it. Also, if I were going to Chandigarh I'd want to take the train up to Shimla.

Thanks thursdaysd. That fourth night in Shekhawati is Diwali, my thinking was that after getting to know the area pretty well we might luck in to some celebration. Having said that, wherever we are for Diwali should be colourful, and Indians are usually pretty hospitable.
I’ll investigate the train to Shimla.
Thanks again.

I have not visited the cities/towns you have mentioned, thus not much help.

But very excited to note you will spend Diwali in India. It is an amazing festival and families have great celebration for days and days. You can compare the festival to Christmas. But Diwali is very, very colorful, lot of sweets to eat, amazing selection of special foods.

The night celebration is beautiful because every home no matter how small and every building is lit up with candles, or wick lights and in modern times even electric mini lights as are used on the Christmas trees. The poorest of the poor also will put some sort of lights in front of their huts or even their road side dwelling. Truly amazing.
People pray to the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, seeking good fortune in the coming year.
Thus, the entire country is lit up.
So plan for a fun time. Good luck in planning. The weather should be pleasantly warm, not too hot in most places.

4 nights in Shekhawati is a bit too long. Bikaner has only the Junagarh Fort & perhaps the Karni Mata Rat Temple, 20 miles towards Jaipur, to attract ones attention. One night is good, unless you are doing a very long drive the previous day. Pushkar is worth two nights if you plan to visit the Pushkar Cattle fair. All in all some regions are less intellectually engaging.
Coming to Punjab and not staying in a Punjabi rural home-stay or a farm, is to miss the very ethos of Punjabi culture which is robust, progressive and extremely hospitable. Remember JD Cunningham called the Sikh peasantry as 'the best the world has seen'!
Happy travels!

ileen, I’m so excited to be going there for Diwali (planned it that way) after Diwali in Sri Lanka last year was a let down. Thanks for confirming that it should be magical.

vp_singh, is there a place or area in rural Punjab you could recommend? Nothing in India is booked yet, so I have flexibility to change things around. We likely will spend 2 nights in Pushkar, but about a week before this years camel fair. In Bikaner I’m hoping a camel will take me into the desert, not sure about the rat temple yet.

There are several of these in punjab. On the top of my list is Citrus County Farm-stay at Hoshiarpur, which is 70 miles from Amritsar. It is located on a 100-acre kinnow farm. November/December will be picking time for the fruit and you will see some activity on the farm. The nearby village will give you a peep into the Punjabi way of life. You can ride a tractor, indulge in farm activities, meet the village elders, picnic in the forest, as also visit a dairy farm. The accommodation is in deluxe tents and a couple of rooms in the main building. The food is very good. Harkirat the owner & his wife personally look after the guests and that makes a great difference.
However, for those who are in the Punjab in the month of March, it is the Festival of 'Holla Mohalla' at Anandpur Sahib which will give you an idea of the 'spirit of the Khalsa', the robust games, horse-riding, tent-pegging & martial arts, all conducted with spontaneity.
One night in Pushkar is fine, after all it is only a market which is colourful and you could buy a few of the ethnic-mirror work fabric.
As for Bikaner, I have been there on a number of occasions but never tried a camel safari. The best known camel safaris in Rajasthan are in Jaisalmer and Dechu.
Hope it helps.

Thanks vp_singh, at AUD $280 per night that one is a bit more than I want to pay. I will keep looking and feel confident I’ll find another closer to my budget. Great to know it will be harvest time, and also the activities likely available. I had to google kinnow, love mandarins.

Sadly I have to save Jaisalmer for another trip, but believe the desert around Bikaner has more plants and critters, we’ll see.

Thanks again for your insight.

Harkirat Singh at Citrus County is like all Punjabis & Sikhs, a largehearted gentleman. If you write to him, he will consider reducing the rates. Moreover, the rate includes all meals and activities. Thanks.

'Wah' Sartoric back to India, that too during Diwali. Fantastic. The Shekawati region is lovely during that time of the year. Brace for the chill. Often below 10C at night and warm days.Its simply beautiful.


Good suggestion above staying in a farm and experiencing the Punjabi way of life.Citrus County sounds steep.There are others you could take a look here. They seem good and are much closer to the city of Amrisar

https://www.itmenaanlodges.com/punjabiyat/

Farmer's Villa, Farmstay in Amritsar, Punjab Countryside

I've done day trips to Amritsar from Jalandhar and Ludhiana during my earlier visits to the Golden Temple and Jalianwala Bagh,Not really stayed in the city.I didn't think it was worth it either.

The Golden temple, one of the world's holiest shrines is India's most spectacular place of worship in my opinion.Colourful people from all faiths come here to pray and the devotion is intense.You can feel it within. Both men and women are required to wear a scarf over their head,men ,in bandana fashion, leave your shoes behind at the entrance,Wash your feet as you enter and surrender thyself to the almighty.The awesome gold gilted dome of the Harimandir Sahib.Every night, the Granth Sahib the 'Holy Book" is carried in procession along this bridge to the Akal Takht. Its beautiful to experience this. Check for timing.

Well.No soul goes to Punjab without trying the legendary Punjabi fare and come out a satisfied soul.

Once out, hungry I went straight for the divine Amritsari Paratha @ Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale,Near the Golden temple, Bazaar Bikaneria. Pure vegetarian because of its proximity to the temple,the Amritsari naan with a dollop of butter and chole ( chickpea curry) is something I would die for.Rick Stein's India featured it.

Of course the Guru ka Langar or the kitchen inside of the Golden temple is a sight to behold .That's if you can muster the courage to handle it.Hundreds of devotees milling and jostling about,a sight to behold. A must visit even if you decide not to eat there.

I you do crave for some good indian meat dishes try Paya curry and Kheema (mince meat) Naan at Pal Da Dhaba near Hathi Gate.The Chicken Tikka Tandoori and Kheema Naan. Amritsari Fish Kebab @ Beera Chicken Corner,Opposite Bandari Hospital.This place lets you BYOB.
​​​​​​​Have fun planning !!

I remember staying at Reggie's Camel Camp at Khetasar, Osian between Palodi and Jodhpur. It was 2011.Awesome experience in the Thar desert. Well furnished tents. A great experience.
camel camp,osian,camel safari,jodhpur,tented accommodation,jaipur india,desert rajasthan tour

At Bundi it was the Haveli Katkoun.Good location just below and with great views of the Taragarh Fort which was beautifully lit at night.

Hotel Katkoun Haveli Bundi

I was hoping you’d chime in inquest.
Funny, I made Punjabi chickpea chole for dinner tonight ! Still debating on the food at the temple, it would be silly to go all that way and not partake, on the other hand....

Thanks for all the great ideas/links.

I ate at the Golden Temple with no ill effects. The food is very basic, vegetarian, and hot (temperature not spice). But I didn't drink the water.

Eating at the GT should be fine. It’s cooked and fresh. Get bottled H2O. Also to me seeing it at night all lit up is preferable

Eating at the temple langar should be perfectly fine,hygiene-wise, Food is made fresh and and served hot.Its rotis,rice,dal and kheer. A simple fare.Sure is an experience.

The three main towns in the Shekhawati region that have a lot to offer are Fatehpur, Mandawa and Nawalghar. With interesting history most of the havelis were in a dilapidated condition and many in ruins. I'm not sure of the present conditions,though I heard there are restoration happening.Take a look at this place,if you do plan to base yourself in Fatehpur ( as its enroute to Bikaner),which I think would be the most convenient location to tour the region. Haveli Le Prince in Fatehpur.

https://www.leprincehaveli.com/welcome-uk

Ohh, thank you again inquest.
One more thing, I’m looking for a guest house or small hotel in New Delhi. We like family run, clean, safe and friendly.

Sartoric, I too like to stay in intimate family run establishments,but not home stays where the guests are expected to wine and dine with the host family.That's to intimidating for me I prefer the cosiness of a home without getting my toes trampled upon.Love staying & waking up in the leafy,upscale neighbourhoods of Delhi, to the medley of parakeets, mynahs and bulbuls.
Here are some you could consider,depending on the preferred location/area in Delhi.

Tree of Life
Homestay in Southdelhi | Bed and breakfast in Southdelhi | treeoflife

The State B&B
The Estate BNB | Your residence in New Delhi

Bed & Chai
Bed & Chai Guesthouse - New Delhi - India - Hotel - Bed & Breakfast - Homestay - Inn - Hostel

Thikana
thikanadelhi.com | Boutique Bed and Breakfast Delhi

The Lazy Patio
https://www.facebook.com/Thelazypatio/

Lutyen's Bungalow
Lutyens Bungalow - Home

Chhoti Haveli
https://www.chhotihaveli.com/

Scarlette
scarlette new delhi ? A charming and intimate « Maison d?hôtes » in the middle of south Delhi

Colonel's Retreat
Colonel's Retreat, New Delhi

On the House
Bed & Breakfast in Delhi

Chateau 39
A39, Oberoi Apartments, 2 Shamanth Marg, Civil Lines, New Delhi, Delhi 100054
Mobile:+91 098105 74950

Prakash Kutir
A-34, Hauz Khas, New Delhi – 110016, India
[email protected]

Goodluck

I have stayed in many Guest Houses in New Delhi, some are good, some mediocre & some pretty bad. Most of the budget places in Pahar Ganj area fall in the last category. The only exception is Florence Inn which is a good budget hotel, a wee bit more than a GH, and offers fine food in a small well-decorated restaurant, with 24 hours service..
Another GH which I consider a good, clean place is Saket B&B. They are very foreign tourist friendly as well. Saket is close to Qutab Minar.
Don't get carried away by the names of posh localities. I have seen some poor accommodation in these areas as well.
Happy hunting!

Thank you both, so many choices !

Sartoric, i've been meaning to here, and will do within a few days with other thoughts.

Great guesthouse reccos from Inquest, based on my personal experience of two o his list.

Tree of Life is a guest house , not a true homestay, but the owners are nearby (they might live in the flat below where the guest house is)--you will meet Ashwani (the owner) for sure. I stayed there about 4.5 yrs ago. Loved it! Here's my review on TA. It includes photos

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser...ml#UR184441569

Chhoti Haveli, which I also loved, is much smaller and thus "cozier"---maybe three rooms total, on one level. The owners, who are delightful, live on the floor below. It is close to the airport but in a leafy suburb near a local park. The only drawback here is that walking distance public transport as close as at Tree of Life, but Surinder will help arrange the best possible deal for a cab.
Here is my TA review of Chhoti Havelii:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser..._of_Delhi.html

Thikkana is one Tim likes and has recommended for years, but I've never stayed there. Can't recall why---perhaps a bit pricer ? Ccompare $$ of course, but know that the price of good accommodation in New Delhi won't be super "budget level". I'd expect (it's four yrs since I've been) that $100 USD is likely.

Will write soon with thoughts on Amritsar and Jaipur. You asked in a previous thread about this upcoming trip, when it was in the "nebulous" stage. I can't find the questions now, but made a few recommendations at the time for Amritsar However, I cant recall what they were ! (-:

Sorry--skipped a few essential words. I meant, public transport is not as close to Chhoti Haveli, as it is to Tree of Life. Also, the "social aspect" is not there much at Chhoti, as it is smaller. Just me and one other guest. It was fine, but I did very much enjoy the interaction with a larger number of fellow guests, as well as the owner and staff, at Tree of Life on next trip to New Delhi

Also, re: Jaipur---you've stayed before, right? So i'm guessing you want more off-the-beaten-path site recommendations?

So glad you chimed in CaliNurse. I’m thinking for New Delhi that staying near the Hauz Khas area might be good for us. Both of your recommendations would work.

In Amritsar you recommended a guide who now has a homestay....it looks basic, but I think we’ll opt for his small family home.

Yes we’ve been to Jaipur before, we stayed at the Trident a bit out of town. I’m looking for more quirky and personal this time.

Thanks so much.

Funny, I made Punjabi chickpea chole for dinner tonight ! Still debating on the food at the temple, it would be silly to go all that way and not partake, on the other hand....

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jall..._Bagh_massacre
this is a must see in Amritsar

Nice to hear that there are Chickpea Chole aficionados in here.Its a hurricane of tastes designed to hit all your sensory buds in your palate,sizzling and spicy,hot and herbal, and sweet and tangy.

Though largely misconstrued as a 'Punjabi' dish, it is ubiquitous in most of the Northern half of India
(now available with regional variations all over India) and Pakistan too.Perfect to eat with,naan, roti, or rice and even dinner rolls.The Chole aka Channa Masala is, in my opinion,the best with Bhature,a puffy deep-fried white-flour bread ( a larger version of the South Indian poories),served with raw onion rings and sauteed green chilly. Rip a piece of Bhature, folding it with your fingers,spoon the chole and in one go, pop it into your mouth and let it explode your senses.

What a coincidence Cali. I too stayed at Tree of Life,(reason for recommending it) that was over 5 years ago, though a lovely place,a short stay, I don't re-call much. Most of my early visits have been staying with friends,a few guesthouses in the lovely suburbs and many a times at the Delhi Gymkhana Club as a guest of a member.Its colonial charm,grandeur and wonderful hospitality,speaks of its glorious past.

Sartoric, there are a couple of names that were doing the round with reference to Jaipur. Check these out.

Pratap Bhavan
Pratap Bhawan | Jaipur Homestay | Bed & Breakfast Hotel

Anuraag Villa
Economy Hotel Jaipur, Heritage Haveli Jaipur, Heritage Hotel Jaipur, Budget Hotel Jaipur, Centrally Located Hotels Jaipur Rajasthan, Forte and Palace hotels Jaipur, Luxurious Hotel Jaipur, Family Vacation Hotel Jaipur, Roof Top Restaurant Hotel Jaipu

Both seem to have good reviews.Please do your assessment before arriving at a conclusion.As i've mentioned in my past TRs that any place recommended, could over time,change,many a time for the worse.Change of ownership, management,a chef or even a bad experience with housekeeping could have lasting effects.There is no guarantee.

Oops. Didn't realise there is an Algerian parrot caged in here >:D<

The main dish of the Punjab during the winters is 'Makki ki Roti' (Indian bread made of maize) & 'Sarson ka saag', mustard leaves hashed, partaken with a good dollop of butter. It is much appreciated by all with a glassful of butter milk. Punjabis do not take butter milk in the evenings, unlike some other states.,
There are many class differences prevalent in India and the same is true of Punjab. Class & Caste may not be coterminous. While all will like to have the Sarson ka saag during the winters, not many especially the educated and health conscious, appreciate Chole Bhature. It is ok to taste the dish but I would not like to go gaga over it.
The meat dishes were made occasionally in a Punjabi household. The majority of the populace was & is still vegetarian. This trend is slowly changing and more people are now partaking of non-veg dishes. This is partly due to the transmigration of populace during the partition. The meat eating moslem population left for Pakistan and in the wake, those who emigrated into India brought the dominant trends into the modern-day Punjab. The Brahiminical system of sacred & profane still remains largely intact today.

Last year i visited Manali, via Chandigarh, I have not a best idea for travel, In Chandigarh i visited Sukhna lake, Rock garden, Artificial Mountain, polo ground, and lots of more thing. while in Chandigarh, i am not able to find such a restaurant where i find "Sarso the saag and makki the roti"
If you know any restaurant please send me the adress.

Haus Khaz is a great area, relatively posh interesting and charming shopping lanes. Shops in the complex include ndividually owned, non-chain, "boutiquey" shops, small restaurants. Where else will you find shopping center with an archaeological dig and lake contained in it?
There is a Haus Khaz metro stop, so even if you don't stay in the immediate area, it's easy to reach via public transport, e.g. the metro stop five minutes from Tree of Life.

Or, you can stay right IN the area. One of the lodgings on Inquest's list is in the Hauz Khas complex: Lazy Patio . It is on Booking.com but shows nonrefundable 50% cost once booked.
There are other Haus Khaz area B and Bs/homestays, ,e.g. Haveli - Boutique Bed and Breakfast, Guest house in Hauz Khas Enclave, New Delhi, with reasonable prices. I almost booked it in the past (when it was called Amarya Haveli.)

Bed and Chai, another of those on Inquest's list, has a blog with interesting sections including one one is low-priced palace-stays. There's one in Bundi .

Jaipur---where I stayed had great rooms but mediocre food, and so wouldnt stay again. Tim has a place he loves (I don't recall its name) plus he is i believe now in Rajasthan checking out old and new lodging recs so he may have an idea for your stay there.There are sooooo many lodgings in Jaipur! As to sites, my favorite was the Monkey Hanuman Temple,Galta-ji, in the hills on the outskirts of town. Fantastic place with mountain springs that pilgrims bath in.When i was there, it was quiet with no felllow-tourists. Since you've previously been in Jaipur, and lkely saw many of its most famous sites, Galta-ji would be an idea for this trip. https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/r...le-jaipur.html

gujerattourismo: Sarson ka saag & Makki ki roti is a traditional dish of Punjab. This dish won't be found in the fast-food type restaurants around the Chandigarh Lake. There will be several eateries in sector 22 & 35 who will serve this meal, during the winters. I am quite positive you will get it in Taj Chandigarh & the Marriott. The tough peasantry of Punjab relishes it immensely. Every household will make this dish irrespective of the urban/rural divide. The Saag made in Punjab household will contain Bathua (locally called Bathoo/botanical name I think is Chenopodium Album) leaves, which is rich in herbal health benefits. The makki ki roti is tough to bake for it breaks in the process. Older Punjabi ladies baked it very well. The younger generation does not have the time or inclination. The restaurants add wheat or gram flour to it, bake it in an oven, which kills the taste. The best makki ki roti is made on a gridle, the maize being ground slowly either by hand-driven grinding stone or driven by water, as is still the case in Himachal Pradesh. It is very soft and sweet.
Bon appetite!

If you proceed to Galta Ji, beware of those aggressive monkeys. Don't carry any eatables or fruit or juice can in your hand. These critters are hard to dislodge.
The pilgrims feed these making them very bold.
Happy travels!

Amritsar: make two separate trip to the GoldenTemple. Its atmosphere at night, vs in the morning, is entirely different. The day is all busy, a self-encased village even with its own medicine dispensary as well as the famous kitchens. Night is peaceful and sublime, even with the huge number of pilgrims circling on the cool marble walkway around the central pool

I don't know personally about the homestay that Gurinder started. Tthere were af ew tripadvisor review that sounded promising. In pix it looks quite basic, open shower, etc. But i can say you from our two days with him, that Grinder is a great guide and person and you will learn so much about the Punjab, and Sikh culture If not already done, see his website for the many possibilities. including to a village area suburb of Amritsa. He'll take you wherever, depending on your interest...or will just lead the way if you are open to that. The Wagah/Atari border closing ceremony is deliberately planned high theater and as you see across the border to thePakistani side, each side gets into its collective chats of " Long live Hindustan!" vs "Long live Pakistan!" If you havent already seen these, here are some ideas for Amritsar area tours.
Amritsar Heritage Walk,Architectural and Traditional Heritage Tour see village tour About Me, Gurinder Singh Johal, Tourist Guide in Amritsar

Sorry Sartorial about all the typos above. I tried to correct them with the edit function then got a "too short message" reply. Grrr!!!

Sartoric!! Not Sartorial!!! Typos plus auto correct plus the "new improved Fodors" = grrrrr!!!!!

Once again thank you CaliNurse, I’ll be getting in touch with Gurinder soon.
Thanks also again vp_singh, I will definitely want to try the mustard leaves saag (we are flexitarians- mainly vegetarian with the occasional chicken or fish dish).
So many things to see in Amritsar ! Definitely want to visit the Wagah border ceremony, and Jacketwatch the museum sounds interesting too.
My plan is coming along nicely, thanks to everyone for their input !

Few points to add to the great advice above -

1. A few havelis in shekhawati have been restored. Poddar haveli is a museum now and worth a visit. However, four days do seem a bit much to me. You could do two or two and a half (another half being a travel day to Jaipur perhaps)
2. On Diwali, Jaipur's walled city decorations usually make it to the national news. However, it does get polluted and it can be bad - not as bad as Delhi though. If I had to choose a place to see the lights, general decoration etc. I'd choose Jaipur over the smaller places in Rajasthan.
3. In Rajasthan, the more atmospheric hotels are either former palaces, or other residences. Two groups, not owned by any major hotel chain, have done a good job converting such heritage properties to hotels - the HRH group owned in part by the Udaipur royal family and the other is Neemrana group. The word group is a bit of a misnomer here as all you're getting is a website and a booking engine that connects these. In your itinerary, Gajner palace run by HRH and Piramal Haveli run by Neemrana could be options.

The HRH has some wonderfully located hotels all over Rajasthan. These are old Palaces/hunting lodges and very nicely decorated. A lot of character as well. The best out of all these are the Shiv Niwas Palace(Terrace Suites) & Fateh Prakash Palace (Lake facing), at Udaipur. The meals turn out to be good if not extraordinary. However, it is the service which lets them down... too laid back for modern times...are you there HRH?
The Neemrana has also some fine properties. There higher range rooms are better than the standard. The food is like home-cooked.
Happy travels!

My plans to visit India are still on hold; reading this has whetted my appetite again but I am reluctant to embark upon a first time visit by myself and all the tours on offer seem to move too fast for my tastes, though that may be what I end up doing.

Thanks for sharing all your wonderful ideas - one day!!!

Ahh, continued thanks to contributors, and glad it’s helpful for other planners.

The Neemrana and HRH palaces look wonderful, far more than I’m prepared to pay though.
So far, I’ve booked a couple of nights at Prakriti Farms near Rupnagar in the Punjab. There’s a Ramsar listed wetlands nearby and they can arrange a bird expert to accompany us for a half day at a reasonable 2000 INR. I’m also considering a night or two at HACRA a village/camel/desert experience outside Osiyan in Rajasthan. The operation was highly recommended by Tim at Indian Panorama despite there being no electricity or running water !

Regarding Indian Panorama, I’ve decided to go it alone with booking all accommodation and using Namaste Tours India for car and driver services. I like their website and email response. Does anyone know more about this company, or recommend another car/driver only operation ?

Annhig, don’t give up, you’ll get to India when the time is right.

Thanks, Sartoric - that's what I keep telling myself.