Tripplanner - so far that's our feeling. Thanks for following along.
Please excuse the typos and grammatical errors above. I should be proof reading.

dgunbug - I'm still thoroughly enjoying following your trip, warts and all. I appreciate your candor and am noting your comments about your trip for when we do go to S. India (hopefully in 2017).

One practical question -- what are you taking with you to write up your TR? Is it an iPad? I'm SO amazed how well you're writing while on the road! I don't think I'd have the patience to write so extensively while I'm traveling, so am very grateful for your willingness to write on-the-go!

Progol - thanks. This is the first time in writing from the road and I'm finding it so much easier to remember what we did and how I feel as we go along. Plus, we've had a lot of down time, so that makes it easier to write daily. I've been using both my iPhone and iPad to write. I find the iPhone a bit easier when it comes to using two hands to write, but love reading on the iPad.

Hoping to regain my original enthusiasm as we move along and see new things. Thank you to those following along.

After several hours on the road we arrived at our hotel in kamarakom. The ride through the town of kamarakom was lovely and we were told by our driver that the newly paved roads were dirt roads only four weeks earlier. There is much progress being made in the south. The hotel grounds are lovely and we learned that we are at a resort with very little to do but relax. Truthfully, we are relaxed out. The weather is stifling hot. To make matters worse, we left our bathing suits at home as on every other trip we've taken, we enjoy wandering and being more active. Each time we bring bathing suits, they take up wasted space in the suitcases. This time we decided not to bring them. How I can sleep more is beyond me, but we arrived at the hotel and I layed down and slept the afternoon away.

At 4:00 the hotel served tea on the lawn. It was a nice way to meet fellow guests and we enjoyed our time with couples from England, Dubai, and California. The Indian couple from California are in India for their daughter's wedding which took place in the Jaipur Palace! We can't imagine that! The other guests took an hour sunset cruise offered by the hotel, but we declined as we had spent enough time on the boat. Another couple told us they had walked into town to get drinks, but there was nothing to see there.

Dinner is at 7:00 and music is scheduled. There are cottages here with private pools and then other rooms overlooking a lake. Since we have our own pool at home, that had not appealed to us. We ran into a young woman from Florida who voiced the same opinion us - the vegetation and scenery are not that different from back home and there seems little to do in this part of the world. There is a yoga class at 7:00 am for those interested and massages ar available.

All the relaxation would make me bored too. I hope that the rest of your trip is more worthwhile.

Thanks tripplanner. Didn't know if it was just us. I'm ready for some excitement. Haven't even seen beautiful temples, although we know those are coming.

I can relax for about 48 hours ... at a stretch :)

I would imagine that all of that time in a car is tiring you: You have had a few legs of the journey where you spent 'several' (>4 ?) hours in a car - I would find that exhausting.

Again, this is a really invaluable perspective on touring Southern India. Thanks!

Ger

I wouldn't write southern India off! Transport in parts of it can be problematic, as it can in other parts of India if you want to get off the main tourist trail. I prefer to take the train, but service in the south is not as extensive. I also think trying to include Hampi can be a mistake, as it is a long way from anywhere else.

However, there are definitely sights worth seeing in southern India. The temples are mostly in Tamil Nadu, not Kerala, but I really enjoyed my stay in Fort Kochi (2001) and Coorg (2010). I liked Mysore enough to go back, and I took another look at the beaches in Goa even though I'm not a beach person (further south around Kannur was more empty and more interesting).

For Coorg see: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ters-in-coorg/ and for my southern India TR after Hampi see: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...omment-6862825

I thought the south was cleaner and quieter than the north, and I do recommend seeing it, but you need to be selective.

I will reserve judgment till the end of the trip. Hampi was extremely far, but also one of the highlights. This certainly has not been the most interesting trip so far. Let's wait and see though. Thursday - much of what you saw years back has changed drastically. For the people living here, that is a good thing...life has improved. It is just less touristy and less interesting for a foreigner visiting the south.

This evening's meal was enjoyable and we were joined by two other couples for pleasant conversation and note comparing. The concensus has been too much driving, heavy traffic and few rewards for the effort.

We leave in the morning. More to come.

Without going into details for now, I will say it would be a shame for anyone reading this to be put off going to South India in general, or the Cochin/Kumarokom area Kerala specifically.
The backwaters area is known precisely for R and R--it is an area for "chilling"--not for heavy duty touristy areas and loads of activities. This (Cochin, backwaters) is an area I've seen referred to as "India lite"--and for those who want to "ease" their way into India, vs a more "in your face" first experience. Perhaps, as you have this laid-back waterside palm-tree lined atmosphere already at home in Florida, you could /should have skipped this part of the trip.
The particular area of Kerala in which you've been is not known for Hindu temples--au contraire, it's known for its Catholicism (rare in India) churches, although there are some fascinating temples I saw last yr in Northern Kerala.
Hang in there, Dgunbug--you'll see the Hindu temples in Tamil Nadu. I hope you have enough time on your itin to enjoy several of them, and look forward to your impressions.

CaliNurse, you wrote some of the thoughts I was about to write!

Dgunbug, we just got back from 6 weeks in India about a week ago. And almost half was in Southern India (this was my second trip to the south).

You're going to get some relief from the heat in Munnar. But it too is largely a "chill-out" place. But the tea gardens are gorgeous. Especially the ones past Munnar town (on the road to Madurai). If you're up to a bumpy jeep ride, go to Kolukkumalai Tea Estate. Also, try to wander through one of the little villages where the tea workers live. We found the people in them very welcoming. They were curious about us and our smiles were returned ten-fold. Of course we got the usual torrent of children asking to have their pictures taken.

In Madurai, the Sri Meenakshi Temple alone is going to restore your faith in your decision to visit south India. You may find you're the only westerners there. Try to go at night as well as during the day, as it changes completely, and the pujas and ceremonies are amazing. They have a ridiculous "no camera" rule, based on a lack of understanding of what constitutes a security risk by the local government, but they do allow camera phones in.

While passing through Trichy, do consider a stop at the huge Ranganathaswamy temple complex. One negative is that there is construction/renovation going on there right now. And I wouldn't go if you have a limited interest in Chola temples, because if that is the case, you'll want to save your interest for some gems that will immediately follow in your itinerary. But I was still glad we went.

Perhaps my favorite temple in south India is the Brihadeeswarar Temple in Tanjore. Again, well worth a night visit as well as a daytime one.

There are a number of small villages scattered around Tanjore, some on rivers. I'd just wander smiling into one or two. Again, the people in southern villages were very welcoming to us whenever we did that.

My advice would be to ask your driver to stop at 2 temples on the way to Pondicherry. The Darasuram Airavateswara temple is just exquisite, and again, you'll probably be the only westerners there. The inside of the temple is as gorgeous as the outside, as light streams in mysteriously between carved columns through the smoke of incense.

After that, as you continue your drive to Pondicherry, you'll come to the Gangaikondacholapuram temple, which is another amazing temple. As with the others, they have been designated as Living Temples. You may only be able to see the outside, because the hours the inside is open don't mesh well with seeing the temple at Darasuram, but the outside alone is well worth stopping to see.

And as I'm sure you know, Pondicherry is unique in India, with the blend of French colonial and Indian architecture in the "French Quarter", which is also known by the cringeworthy name of Whitetown. It has changed a lot since my last trip, but is still lovely. We really enjoyed just wandering the streets, admiring the colonial buildings. Of course, Pondicherry is another "chill-out" place, although there's an amazing Kali temple outside of town that hardly any tourists ever find out about.

I hope all this, and all the other great experiences you're bound to have ahead of you leaves you thinking that southern India is an amazing place.

Calinurse and rje - thank you both for your valuable comments. As I've noted, so far Kerala is not what we'd hoped for as we are not in great need of r & r. We were aware in advance of the Catholic influence in the area and know that there will be temples to come. I am just reporting our thoughts so far and they have been echoed by some of the other travelers we've met.

We have just arrived in Thekkady at our mountain resort. The grounds seem lovely and we are told that there are cooking demonstrations at night as well as musical entertainment. At 4:30 we will go with our driver to an elephant camp (not for rides). I believe it is a sanctuary for injured or abandoned baby elephants..

On the way up here we stopped briefly at a spice market as Thekkady is known for their spices.

More to follow...

Calinurse and rje, thanks so much for your contributions! It's very helpful to understand the different regions and what to expect from each. I'm now hopeful that 2017 will be our return to India, though a much more abbreviated trip than I'd like. But the emphasis will be in Tamil Nadu and seeing the small towns and extraordinary temples -- and ending with a few days chilling out in Kerala and Cochin.

dgunbug - I surely hope that the enjoyment is rekindled for you - it still sounds like an amazing trip, and, as rje pointed out, there are some fascinating places ahead of you.

Looking forward to the rest...

Paule

This afternoon our driver brought us to what we thought was an elephant sanctuary. Instead it was a disgusting place that had several elephants chained up for rides and pictures. Very disappointing. We left as soon as we realized it wasn't what we had anticipated.

Now that I'm almost over my cold, my husband decided to come down with it. No fever so far, but he's not a happy camper. We had planned on an early start at 6:00 am to catch the first boat in the periyar tiger reserve, but my husband's nixed those plans so we will want to take it easy in the morning and move on to munnar. This afternoon I enjoyed a cooking demonstration followed by a film promoting the park and explaining all the nature activities. For nature lovers, the area is lovely. The grounds are quiet and tranquil. The room is ok, but probably our least favorite (bed is not super comfy and wifi sketchy). The pool is adequate but nothing special.

Thanks for posting from the road and for your candid comments. I was thinking of going to southern India a few years ago, but decided not to for many of the reasons you give for your not being with it.

In my planning stage I remember asking if Kerala was worth going to, and Dogster replied "If you haven't seen a palm tree or beach, you should definately include it". I really miss Dogster's sarcastic, but usually on the mark, comments.

From my planning, I think you are heading for the more interesting part of your trip, the temples in TN

Hope your husband feels better soon.

Should have written...."for many of the reasons you give for not being thrilled with it".

Oh no! Hopes for a recovery for hubby. Someone (who, I've no idea!) said, "A really bad cold won't kill you, but it makes you feel like you want to die."

Dgunbug, if I'd have seen your plan to visit the elephant sanctuary, I'd have warned against it. Nothing I've ever read about the Kerala one is positive. We saw a different "ellie sanctuary" near Coorg. Never again. They are marketed as "you can feed and bathe the elephants" but the reality, as you learned, is sadly different. There's one we saw in Thrissur, too (not a "sanctuary") where about fifty temple elephants are kept chained to trees. People adored the elephants-- there are even fan clubs and photos of "celebrity" elephants in the building there--but somehow, the connection for how they are treated is lacking.

Also, don't feel bad for missing the Periyar boat trip. I've never done it due assorted warnings from trusted friends who've been, and regretted how overcrowded it's become. (There was a tragic ferry accident a few yrs ago--capsized due to overloading on the boat. There are more regulations now, but the lake trip still apparently lacks the appeal it once had.)

Shelley, we all of course make choices (travel and otherwise) based on what we've learned, researched, etc. How else to decide? Sometimes I think, "Wow, glad I listened"--other times "Why on earth did I pay attention to that?" That said, saying you nixed a trip to "Southern India" is like deciding against a visit to the the entire Southeast of the USA, because someone doesn't think it worth seeing the palm trees and beaches of Florida. And avoiding Kerala because of one particular area reportedly being less than appealing, is like avoiding the entire state of California because you read that LA is too crowded.

I too enjoyed, laughed at, and learned from many of Dogster's comments, despite their occasional o.t.t. sarcasm. I miss his wit and hilarious observations. But he was one person, with one person's opinion, among many equally accurate ones available here and in other forums.

Dgunbug, may your husband recover soon, and your trip's final week bring more excitement and enjoyment to you both!

RJE, a huge thank you for your very detailed, enthusiastic, colorful recommendations! They are going into the "Tamil Nadu" must-see file for my next (third) trip to a different area of the South: Tamil Nadu coast from Chennai through Pondy, the inland areas of temples you so beautifully describe, Chettinad, and then over the hills to Munnar and the Thodupuzza area--if time and $$ allow. I'm ready to leave today....alas, have to wait.

CaliNurse- I didn't decide to not visit southern India solely because of Dogster's remark. I decided not to visit because of the very long distances required to get from one site to the other, as this TR makes clear. Also, we do not like Indian food, so food was not a draw as it is with many of the other Asian countries we have visited. Dogster's comment made me realize I did not want to spend a good bit of time in Kerala. I decided that the rest of southern India was not enough of a draw to entice me into the long car rides involved. although I would have liked to have seen the temples in Madurai and Tanjore. When it comes to travel, different strokes for different folks makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for explaining, Shelley. Different strokes for sure. I completely agree with you that long drives should be avoided anywhere, if possible. (I recently drove 6 hours nonstop in Calif and cursed myself during the trip!)
But should you ever reconsider....it IS possible--I've done it--to see wonderful areas of Kerala/Karnataka/TN without lonnngggg drives in one day between them. Dgunbug as we read in her R included far-apart areas, which meant separate two days of driving, driving, driving,between destinations, as well as a shorter but traffic-laden day trip from/to Cochin. I thank her and appreciate the honesty of her TR for helping to know what to avoid--namely hours' long drives-- on my next trip .
It's sure easy to underestimate the effects of long driving on travel enjoyment, as I recently discovered on a trip filled with what seemed interminable day drives in far northern VN. Funny how those places look painlessly, easily reachable on a map!! (: