Seeking your advice planning a trip to India
 

Hello all:

I am in the preliminary stages of planning a trip to India in November/December 2016 – solo female traveller. Thanks to all for your very informative trip reports, which has made my planning so much easier – I am in your debt.

India has been a passion for me since I was twelve, so I am well read on the subject, and have a solid understanding of its history, art, and architecture, and I am an avid ‘armchair traveller’ to India. Reading your trip reports, I just don’t know why it has taken me so long to actually GO there.

I am planning for approximately 3-4 weeks (dependent upon ability to get free from work, and accumulating the bucket of money to pay for the trip :)

I am planning the trip around Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu, as my primary passions are history, architecture and art, and both will fulfil my desires.

I was originally enticed by the Luxury trains, as I adore both trains & luxury, but ditched the plan after reviewing the cost (versus what I could do hiring private drivers and staying in fairly wonderful hotels), the short time one spends at each site, and the reviews on the banal food (I LOVE my Indian food).

So, I decided to design my own trip, with the help of your input from Trip Reports, my research, and an Indian tour agent (There are a few excellent ones recommended on this site (Legends & Palaces, Castle & King, TGS)). Before I approach an agent, I need to have a preliminary Itinerary and budget.

Itinerary

So, here is a very preliminary Itinerary, and I welcome your comments. It may seem a bit odd, but I am trying to combine two regions that are extreme, in every way:
• London to Delhi: 1 night
• Delhi: 2 Nights
• Fly to Udaipur (working back from the extreme point to Delhi airport)
• Udaipur: 3 nights (this is my ‘chill out’ time)
• Jodhpur: 2 nights
• Jaipur: 2 nights
• Delhi/Fly to Chennai (car to Mahabalipuram)
• Mahabalipuram: 3 nights.
• Tiruvannamalai: 1 night
• Pondicherry: 1 night
• Tanjore: 1 night
• Trichy: 1 night
• Madurai: 2 nights
• Thekkady or Munnar: 2 nights – can’t yet decide which one
• Cochin: 2/3 nights? (Second chill-out time)
• Mumbai/Delhi for a night before flight back to London

Additional information:
• I might be able to add an additional 3-7 days. If so, where should I spend them?
• I always try to do too much, in too short a time
• I don’t mind one-night stays, but if there is a way of combining nights in one central area and doing day-trips, I would appreciate your guidance. Tamil Nadu itinerary is based purely on seeing as many wonderful temples as possible – but could I cut down on the number of locations and do day-trips?
• I have difficulty in ‘chilling out’ (I get really stressed trying to chill out), so there is a limited amount of that. Anyway, spending 4+ hours in a car is probably more ‘Chill-Out’ time than I can possibly cope with
• I can’t decide between Thekkady or Munnar, as both appear to be appealing spots between Madurai and Cochin.

Hotels:
Is this enough information to provide an agent?
• I’d love to have the money to do the whole trip within the ‘Oberoi Bubble’, and I am not ashamed to admit it. However, this is not going to happen. I expect I would like the occasional splurge for a couple of nights in the Oberoi or similar.
• I generally stay in three/four-star hotels in Europe, so I would expect similar standards.
• I am very interested in staying at the heritage Haveli and boutique Hotels/B&Bs.
• I expect great food in the hotel, as I may be having dinner in the hotel (solo female)
• I would expect to pay $100-200 per night (cheaper if possible!), single occupancy, and expect room with a good view

Budget for 28 days:
Can you advise me on the budget please, based on your experiences? I am assuming:
• Price per night for accommodation: $100-$200 (Splurge days: Outrageously expensive, and not included)
• Average price per day for driver: $60 per day
• So total, minus airfares and food, for 28 days, the budget would be approximately $6,000 - $7,000

Looking forward to your advice.

Best regards … Ger

I too traveled solo on last couple trips to India. So did other FF people, including Thursdaysd.

http://www.welcomheritagehotels.in/h...eli-Dharampura

Coincidentally, rec'd email from ITC Welcomeheritage about this newly opened place in Old Delhi There won't be any reviews yet, but it sure looks good, and the kind of place you describe as what you'd like. I've stayed at another Welcomheritage hotel (like Neemrana, they specialize in "heritage " type places) and it was excellent

But...ask yourself what kind of first few nights in India experience you want: big hotel with excellent service, or small guest house with excellent personalized service from owner, or heritage place such as above. They 're all wonderful in different ways. I've stayed at a variety in Delhi: big "upscale" (ITC Maurya )places, and smaller guesthouses, one actual homestay, and frankly, prefer the smaller ones at the start of a trip, especially as you get your bearings, physically and emotionally.

For your second "chill time " (Cochin) check out Old Harbour Hotel. It has everything you want. I loved it! Not cheap, but worth every cent. Great people, great location, beautifully redone heritage building. If you like its looks/reviews, book (or have your agent book) early!!!! Two nights in Cochin is sufficient, imho.

Mahaballipuram: haven't yet been, but research (I'm planning first trip to this part of TN as well!) and word of mouth says three nights is too much, better spent elsewhere.

Since you love architecture,and history, have you looked into a couple nights' stay in the Chettinad Region in Tamil Nadu? Research it, and you'll see beautiful buildings and people with fascinating history. A few places to consider staying, which form what you wrote, would appeal to you, are Visalam and the Bangala.

You don't mention Agra. Since you will already be en route between Jaipur and New Delhi, it is easily do-able.

In Jaipur--don't miss the "monkey temple"--galta -ji. Not often mentioned, and not one of the best known tourist sites, but for me, more fun than the palace!!

Transport: Decide if you want standard sedan, or SUV. The latter costs a bit more but is far more comfortable, and much safer!! In India, that quality will take on even more importance than you're used to.

Nearly all hotels and homestays i've been at in India had a good or excellent dinner available. Going out after a long day of touring to look for a restaurant was often too much--easier to stay put and just go downstairs for food!

Munnar vs Thekkady: Munnar known for beautiful lush tea plantations and scenery, with many small accommodations either adjoining or right in the plantation. (e.g. homestays, or cottages you can rent for a couple nights, which used to belong to the tea plantation owner.) Thekkady known for its proximity to Periyar Nature Preserve, which , according to friends, is now soooo full of noisy families tourists, it has lost much of its charm. But the surrounding area is also lovely--see Dgunbug's recent report.

Travel agents: you have given enough detail that a good agent should be able to help you plan well. VP Singh who writes on Fodors is with Legends and Palaces--I'm always impressed by his knowledge of and passion for his country. My own go-to person, who's never disappointed in help and advice and planning for either all or part of five (yes, I'm lucky!) trips to India, is Tim Hawley, of Indianpanorama. The company originated,and is home-based in Trichy (and thus, they very, very knowledgeable about their own "backyard"TN area) and has offices in Cochin, Delhi, and elsewhere in India. At the very least , for good information, check their website www.indianpanorama.in for photos on the "gallery" and information in "newsletters" section ( details about TN, Kerala, and Rajasthan included in different issues of newsletter) and get ideas in their many sample (but totally flexible/customized) itineraries, which include many places you've expressed interest in visiting. Click on one of the South India itineraries, for example, and on right side of page you should seamen more possible sample idea itins.

You're sure to have many other replies! Both dgunbug and RJE were recently in the south of India. You are wise to plan this far ahead! For a somewhat different take, different points of view and generally different budget level than Fodors, but many trip reports, check Indiamike if not already done.

grrr, typos--this has nothing to do with Navy seamen! Lol. I meant "you should see more possible sample itinerary ideas."
Happy planning, Ger!!!

Welcome to India, land of vibrancy and fascination. Your itinerary looks good and you have all kinds of places like historic, natural and culturally rich cities of south India that means you have your plate full with all kinds of travelling destinations. You can cover in said amount of time but if you still feel to spend your extra 3-7 days than try exploring hill stations near Mumbai in the state of Maharashtra and some days in Gujarat. Both place is like two poles Mumbai and its hill stations are the epitome of lush green landscapes with great view and pleasant and beautiful weather whereas in Gujarat you will find white sand and desert but the colourful and clean city with delicious local delicacies and you can also night-life while staying in Gujarat. Hope you enjoy your stay in India. Great travelling and wishes for safe and enjoyable trip.

Some early reviews of the restaurant at the newly opened Haveli Dharampura that Calinurse mentions are appearing online and look good ! I am planning a similar trip as your Northern Indian section and am watching out for them as does look an interesting place

http://www.zomato.com/ncr/lakhori-ha...howk-new-delhi

I have found that, for the late Sept dates I am searching for, many of the relatively upmarket hotels do really good deals on three night stays [often on their websites rather than through trip adviser etc]. So if you can add extra days you may want to look at this as maybe able to get an additional night at one of your 2 night stops for a low additional price.

Have you ruled out Varanasi ?

I truly appreciate your choice to independently travel in India and I feel there is no better way than doing so and the extensive research before setting off.I also observe that you are spending a considerable amount of time in the South.I will reserve my observations only to this region.I too have travelled very extensively in Southern India,to practically every nook and corner,of course on various occasions and never in one go.

South India is huge and a network of complex terrain, from the plains with lush paddy to dense forest and mountain ranges, the landscape changes in a matter of a few hrs of driving.Driving is tedious and tiresome. So its all the more important to get a good,knowledgeable driver who could ferry you safely.Secondly, the type of car you hire is very important.My recommendation is an Toyota Innova,lot of legroom,quite comfortable, less roll so less motion sickness.You'll probably get good advise here on this matter.

Excepting national highways, the rest of the road network may not be good. Going can get considerably slow.Restrict road travel where absolutely necessary.

Mahabalipuram is very close to Chennai and is a small place,but lovely. 2 Nights there would be more than enough.A half day drive & back to Kancheepuram is possible,The Kamakshi temple is simply beautiful.Tamilnadu is abound with temples. The Pallavas, Cholas and the Pandya dynasties were prolific temple builders and patrons of art and architecture.One can spot a 'Gopuram' miles before you actually get into town.Hire a guide to take you around and listen to the history and detailing behind each monument.
There is a dress code in place, so western wear is not permitted in many temples.A long kurta and pyjama( they also call it salwar kurta) would be acceptable.Probably have to cover you head to with a longish scarf which goes with it.

It would be advisable to fly to Cochin from Madurai, as the road journey would take you though some very mountainous terrain and is long.With Cochin as a base you could do the rest of Kerala as planned.

Your budget of $6000-$7000 borders on luxury.Quite comfortably.Look a some good boutique properties.Will help you with the search.

So exciting to plan a trip to India! In reading your itinerary my first thought was that you are missing my favorite place - varanasi. Do give it consideration. Also, IMO 3 days is too much for Mahaballipuram. You can see the sites there in one day and then view the sunrise or sunset in the evening or next morning. The 1/2 trip to Kancheepuram would probably be worthwhile. I regretted not going there. And Agra - are you willing to miss the Taj? If you visit Agra, you can easily drive to Jaipur and stop on the way at the monkey temple and also the stepping well. Both were amazing sites for us. If I were to chose a hillside location, it would be Munnar, but quite frankly, it is a long drive through the mountains and if I had to give up something, I would skip that I lieu of Varanasi and Agra. Personally, I would skip Cochin and the backwaters too, but that is my own prejudice and many people here enjoy the chill out time there. I will be curious to hear your own reactions.

I can vouch for Mr. VP Singh at Legends and Palaces. He took very good care of us when we were last there in 2103.

These are my opinions after having spent a total of four months in India, and I know everyone has different opinions. We are not fans of Delhi and much prefer Mumbai. It seems as if you have 4 nights in Delhi and are only using Mumbai for transit purposes. We've seen a lot of Delhi in four half day increments on two different trips. A good taxi driver can help you accomplish this.

I second June's (dgunbug) advice about adding Varanasi. To us it is quintessential India.

I don't consider Cochin chill out time. We had two nights there (staying in a conveniently located lodging) and walked around and saw a lot. Granted, these were not huge, major tourist sites. But, it also definitely was not sit in your room and read non-stop chill out time.

Since you love trains (maybe you won't love Indian trains though) what we did on our first trip to India was to arrive in Delhi in the evening from the US, spend the night at a small B&B, have a taxi driver pick us up at noon and take us sightseeing (and out for dinner) until it was time for our train to depart. We took the overnight sleeper train to Jaisalmer and spent a few nights there. Architecture and ambience are very different here than elsewhere. From here we took the train to Jodphur and started our Rajasthan loop there.

We have stayed in some very interesting, non-city, heritage places. We found them to be much more personalized, and they also all offer some sort of activities so you are not just sitting around twiddling your thumbs. I highly recommend adding in one of these to balance out your itinerary. Click on my name and you'll find two different trip reports on northern India. In both of them I discuss some of these smaller, lesser-known places.

We loved jaisalmer too, but given the short time, I think it is too far and difficult to get to. We really enjoyed our time in Delhi, but if you have a driver you can cut down trip to two days. Sites are very spread apart. I concur with Julie that you need more than one day in Mumbai. Everything is spread apart and takes a long time to get to in the horrible traffic. If you hire a driver or guide, you can probably see main sites in two days - laundry ghat, slum area, drive along marina drive, gateway, etc. But you will need some guidance or a driver that can get you everywhere in the minimal time.

Also, a word of caution...India is not the place for women to wander around alone at night as you will find few if any women on the streets in many locals. For this reason, it is nice to have a driver or someone to accompany you.

Thank you all so much - you are an amazing source of information!

I will get back to you once I have digested all this great advice.

Go raibh mille maith agat .. appropriate as we approach St. Patrick's day :)

Great and helpful replies to you, Ger which are helpful to others as well!

Totally agree with Inquest re mode of transport--why I described sedan vs SUV above(nearly all drivers in India use Toyota Innova as the SUV). The extra price for SUV is well worth it, ime. Also, as Dgunbug says above, having a driver is essential at night. A good driver is there for you, 24 hours/day, and will wait for you, be somewhere at specified time, as well as drive you between stops, and add a lot to your experience with discussion of local life, etc.

Another point--it is useful to get a cellphone pre-set to driver's cell phone number, travel agent, etc. Nearly all good local travel agents can provide this if requested.

Flights between Madurai and Cochi: Looking at a map, one would think it is a do-able quick local flight. Unfortunately, no--the reality is "aviationally counterintuitive." Unless something has changed recently, there are no direct flights as of now--all flights between the Cochin and Madurai involve one or two stops, and when you include the time going to /coming from the airports, it is nearly an entire day (or more!) process--at least five hours flight time, plus transport . So, despite the mountainous (but scenic) roads, your best bet is to drive it, with a stopover point such as you've asked about, at Munnar or elsewhere.

With all due respect to dgunbug.. please do not skip Cochin. It is a lovely low-key place ( compared to the hectic larger cities) and great to have wander as well as see interesting sites. What is essential is to make a wise choice of where to stay. Stay within Fort Cochin area, near the fishing nest--(which you can have the fun of pulling up, if you want) --not in busy Enrakulum, for example, which involves fighting typical traffic and has no particular charm. I say this based on my own experience of the first time there , staying in a homestay 30 min away, which involved taxi rides into the interesting areas. I've given a hotel recco above, but there are numerous other well-located hotels , inns, homestays, without the "schlep" factor.

If you decide to add Varanasi, there are nonstop flight to or fro there from new Delhi and Mumbai. Not sure, but i think flight from there to Chennai or Cochin, etc, involves stop(s) and longer travel time. There are many on-the-ghat accommodations of different levels--i think Welcomheritage (same company as mentioned for Old Delhi, in my first post) has place there, for example. I stayed in a wonderful, welcoming homestay which as a place I loved, but with15 minute tuk tuk ride to the ghats--next time I'd stay riverside. Preferable, imho to staying in the "center" e.g. at the Radisson--a hassle via traffic in one of the dirtiest city centers in India, to get to the ghats.

Calinurse - no disrespect taken! I actually think that Ger has a nice mixture of cities and may enjoy seeing the difference between the northern and southern regions. I only suggest skipping the Cochin area if there is not enough time for Varanasi and Agra. Ideally, if additional time can be added, the OP can include all areas. And I completely agree that the Ft. Cochin area is the place to stay.

Thank you all for your very valuable responses.


Firstly, I want to discuss dgunbug’s very good advice: ‘India is not the place for women to wander around alone at night’.

I will deal with this first, as it is a fundamental issue that will frame my trip planning, as it should be, and excellent advice for a solo female traveller.

I have travelled independently in France, Spain, and Italy for many years, so traveling as a solo female, wandering around towns and villages at night, has never been a concern.

However, I would be stupid to think I will have the same freedom and latitude in India. This is the reason why I will stay in hotels that have great restaurants, so I can dine in the hotel. There will, of course, be exceptions, but I will always be careful.

Thanks June :)

CaliNurse:

Great stuff here – Many thanks

‘what kind of first few nights in India experience you want: big hotel with excellent service, or small guest house with excellent personalized service from owner, or heritage place’

I had not really thought about it. I supposed I had assumed a four-star non-descript business hotel – a sanitised introduction to India, with a guarantee of continuous electricity so I can charge all my technology.

From reading Diane’s report (Uh-Oh busted), I am rather taken with Claridges (http://www.claridges.com/).

However, your Heritage recommendation looks compelling, and similar to what I have stayed previously in in France/Spain/Italy. I doubt that I will every do a ‘home-stay’ – I need A/C at temps over 75 degrees, and the bloody mosquitoes feast on me!

‘For your second "chill time " (Cochin) check out Old Harbour Hotel’. Absolutely! Diane mentioned it in her trip report, so that will be my first choice. Thank you!

Tail Nadu comments: Agree, I need to do more reading on this – my plan is not ideal. I am waiting on some books to do more detailed planning. Chettinad Region: Than you – I am working on it; The food alone appears to be worth the visit!

Agra: I was wondering who would be the first to bring this up. I have not totally discounted it, and will probably try to build it in.

EXCELLENT tip re getting an SUV – this I would not have thought of, but valuable recommendatin, as every journey will be a MINIMUM of 5 hours (or bloody endless).

More replies to come. Many thanks Calinurse.

Best regards … Ger

Hello Kritikasingh:

Many thanks to you for the excellent recommendations, which I had not thought of before.

I looked up the hill stations outside Mumbai and found this site – how extraordinary, what beautiful landscapes.

http://www.transindiatravels.com/mah...s-near-mumbai/

Also, my nephew’s wife is from Gujarat, so I must involve her in my planning to find out more about the area.

Best regards … Ger

Hello Loncall

Hey there fellow-Londoner – I am in Blackheath SE3 :)

Good tip about hotels. I would like to stay longer in a couple of locations, but I seem to be mostly doing 1-2 day stays. Early stages so we will see.

Re Varanasi: Yes, I know most people are passionate about it: I have watched several documentaries on it, and read many trip reports. Honestly, I am not sure I want to take two more flights to see it. I have not ruled it out, but, I am far more interested in long trip to Tail Nadu.

Best regards … Ger

Thank you Inquest

‘Your budget of $6000-$7000 borders on luxury’: That is very good to know! I have no basis for my assumption re budget, so I am immediately reducing it, as I don’t need Luxury. So, this is a question I need to throw out to others that have travelled to India.

Thank you for your recommendations on the South – I have more research to do on this, and your advice is appreciated.

Dress code: Appreciate this. I have decide to wear salwar kameez (or similar garments). I will buy some in London before I leave, and then shop for more in Delhi.

‘It would be advisable to fly to Cochin from Madurai’ : Interesting advice – I have to consider this in my plan. I did not know that was possible.

Many thanks Inquest - Best regards … Ger

Hello dgunbug (June?)

Lady, your trip reports have inspired me to go to India – thank you!

Varanasi: Yes, I felt the passion from your report. I am not saying I have totally discounted it. At this point, I am just trying to make the best use of the time I have, and if I take three days out to visit Varanasi, I will have to take it out of Tamil Nadu. I need to investigate more before I decide.

Tamil Nadu: Yes, I know I need to rethink the entire itinerary. I only added Munnar as a stopping point between Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Apparently, there may be a flight option, which I have to investigate. This may free up some days, and I will must decide where to spend them.

Maybe Varanasi might come at the end of my trip?

Kerala: I was following on your South India trio report (loved it, and it was wonderful to get the ‘on the road’ experience’). I am still open to a couple of days in Cochin, but not totally committed.

Best regards … Ger

Ger - yes...my name is June. Again, I will reiterate that Varanasi was the highlight of our trips to India. I do not want to discourage you from visiting Cochin. You may have a completely different take than I did as you are not from Florida and have not had my other travel experiences. Whatever you do, you will have an amazing trip to India.

‘It would be advisable to fly to Cochin from Madurai’ : Interesting advice – I have to consider this in my plan. I did not know that was possible. '

Ger, please read my second posting, which evidently you missed, for more information on the Madurai-Cochi plane route. There you will read that, indeed, it is NOT possible wihout a large expenditure of time and at least one stopover at anotehr airport.

I sense you're perceiving all homestays as somewhat rustic, mosquito-laden dwellings, with no ac. However, whether or not you choose one or two--and I strongly recommend you have at least ONE more personalized/smaller stay experience in India-- this is NOT necessarily the case. It really depends on which "homestay"--there are hundreds throughout India. Some are better than hotels. Some are more like small inns, the owners onsite but NOT necessariy IN the same building. Just as an example, see Philipkutty's website (and numerous reviews of it on assorted websites) on the backwaters/lake near Vaikom. It was one of my favorite "big splurges" anywhere in the world ($225/night then, even at high season, is for me a big splurge in India!)

If you love India, you will be back. So, imho, don't sweat it over Varanasi and seeing it this time.It is out of your way,on oyur current tentative itinerary, and as you say, requires more flying time. Sure it's fascinating, in-your-face India...but there are numerous "quintessential" India experiences. Before you even arrive from the airport to your first destination,you'll see things you've only imagined (for better or worse). And I'll bet before you leave on the outbound flight home, you'll already be planning your next trip!! Varanasi, sould yo decide not to go on this trip, will be on the list for next time.
Agra is right along your route from Jaipur to Delhi, so it DOES make sense to stop there. And there are lovely hotels of the type you like--both very high-end and "just" very good!!

Ger - as I'm dithering about doing a trip to India, I'm very interested to see what you end up with in your itinerary, and how it works out, so thanks for sharing your planning process with us [and that wonderful thread of links you researched].

Aren't we lucky to have all this help available to us?!

Just noticed this.

I am another big fan of Varanasi. Rather than flying, consider night trains, which saves daylight time for sightseeing, at least in one direction. There is an express from Delhi - 20:35 to 08:30. For detailed info see: http://seat61.com/India.htm

I am an older solo female traveler and have visited India twice on my own. In 2001 I was there for ten weeks, traveling almost exclusively by train. In 2010, for a six week trip, I used a mix of planes, trains and cars. In 2001 I had no hesitation in walking the streets at night on my own. Thinking about my second trip, which was almost entirely in south India, I think that I mostly ate dinner in my hotels, but I did not consider it unsafe to be on the streets. However, in view of the recent reports of gang rape, I would certainly be more cautious on a future trip, and might reconsider solo travel altogether.

Click on my name for my south Asian TR, including India. In the south I obviously recommend the temple towns, but also enjoyed the Chettinad area and Coorg. I also liked Kochi, in 2001, and stayed at the Malabar House (which was a splurge, but worthwhile).

"I am planning the trip around Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu, as my primary passions are history, architecture and art, and both will fulfil my desires".
In the light of the posters interest, I guess there are certain areas which have better claims than some other cultural-spiritual destinations under discussion . The visible history of Indian art & architectural wealth expresses itself in the incredible number of monuments & temples located throughout India. These can be classified under various themes as Buddhism, Jain, Hindu, Indo-Islamic , Sikh and colonial. In order to sample some of the finest of these expressions your tours may take you to Ajanta & Ellora Caves (near Aurangabad); Buddhist stupas / monasteries located in inhospitable areas of Ladakh, Spiti & Sikkim, are too far flung for the scope of your current itinerary; For Jainism it could be Mount Abu & Ranakpur both near Udaipur; Hindu architecture well expressed in the vaishnavite temples of Orchha & the splendid synthesis of architecture-sculpture of Khajuraho; Indo-Islamic structures are hewn all over the north,central India & in the south, where the wealthy kings of Golconda managed to create great pieces of art.
The Sikh architecture finds expression at the Golden Temple, Amritsar.
The Dravidian style is best expounded in the temples of Madurai, Thanjavur, Mahabalipuram, Rameshwaran and the Belur temples in Karanataka.
The Forts & Palaces add another dimension to your sightseeing.
It may not be possible to do all these at one time, the significant streams can be visited in both north & south.
Happy travels!

Thank you all once more for taking the time to be so very helpful.

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Hi Julies

I am really just using Delhi on the first leg as a ‘get over jet-lag’ point and to do some shopping, see a few sites. On the way from Rajasthan to Chennai, I may just transit the same day. Mumbai is a possibility on the way back, depending on flight schedules.

Chochin looks about as ‘chilled out’ as I can cope with - waking around, seeing sites sounds great and relaxing. I am not much of a 'sit around the pool and relax person' as I get stressed when I try just to do nothing :)

I was considering the train, and may still do so. Again, I am travelling on my own, there are no private rooms, and I would be concerned struggling with luggage etc. Have not ruled it out at the point, and, as my planning evolves, it may make sense.

Yes, I am interested in Heritage hotels, and I have stored your trip report (see my other thread re trip planning for India) and interested in doing some activities (camel ride in the desert sounds excellent and might try to do a cooking course (Indian food is my own forte, and I cook it from scratch).

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June, I had not intended to travel to Jaisalmer due to distance, but once I read about it I could not resist. I have changed my itinerary to include it, staying one night and then another night in Bikaner before hitting Jaipur. Will publish updated later. My trip is getting longer and longer – I think, work allowing, it will be a whole month .
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Hi Calinurse:
Sorry, I missed your comment about limited flights from Madurai, as I am working down the postings. Flights are to Chennai, Mumbai Delhi etc. So, back to original plan.

Yep re a driver. I have already decided to trust my life to one of the excellent tour companies listed above (and now includes Indian Panorama), so I will be looking for them to chauffeur me around. Independent travel is great, but in this case, being by myself in India, I want a ‘fall-back’ mechanism. It would be wonderful if I could get a female, but assume this might be difficult. And yes to the mobile – I MUST have my technology with me.

In Cochin, I want to stay at the Old Harbour Hotel (recommended by yourself and Uh-oh Busted) – looks exactly what I want.

“I sense you're perceiving all homestays as somewhat rustic, mosquito-laden dwellings, with no ac. “. Actually, this is true, so I need to rethink obviously. The place you stayed looks divine, and added to my list, if I decide on the back-waters, which I have always wanted to do, but have a fairly manic terror of mosquitoes because I am dreadfully allergic to them.

Yes, I know I will be back in on a regular basis, so I am not so worried in not experiencing everything in one shot. For the sake of a stress-free holiday, the fewer the airport the better. Agra is still on the list.

Best regards Ger

Annhig – we are SO lucky. This is superior advice than one could get from the very best travel agent, as it is current, passionate, thoughtful, customised and given with so much concern for wellbeing of the individual.

Suffice it to say, that when I original thought of this trip, before reading the wonderful trip reports from these lovely people, I want planning for TWO weeks. I am now in negotiations with the boss for FOUR weeks off.

Best .. Ger

Ger - we did 4 weeks in each the north and south. While jaisalmer is amazing, I would caution you against going there for so short a time as it is out of the way and not easy to get to. Again, I would reiterate that there is nothing quite like Varanasi. So, if I were to add a location, it would be there rather than jaisalmer.

I agree with Thursday about the trains. Don't be put off with sharing a compartment. Be sure to get air conditioned first or second class compartment. There may be an all women sleeping train, but I'm not certain there. In any event, we've had lovely interactions on the trains. As for luggage, I hope you will travel lightly - we use a 22 inch carry on and small backpack for incidentals.

Out the backpack or any expensive items by your pillow. Luggage fit under seat. Or you can throw it up in top with you if you have upper bunk and are worried.

We always traveled as a male female couple, so I don't know if I am qualified to answer your question about females and overnight trains. If you reserve early enough, you can get 1AC class. 1AC compartments lock, which 2AC and lower don't. Once in 1AC we were put in a two person car. The other times we were in a 4 person car. Another thing to know about 1AC travel is that often your companions will be army officers or government officials (think men).

I know there are "ladies" waiting rooms at the trtain stations. But, are there ladies cars? I don't know. However, when you buy a train ticket you give them your gender and your age and some of the work on seat assignments in compartments is done manually. So, perhaps you would be put with a group of women or a family rather than males. This all assumes that there would be such a group on the trip you want to take.

As far as I know, female only compartments are only found on those super packed commuter trains. Long distance trains are mixed sex. I have ridden in 1AC, 2AC and 3AC. Happily 3AC was only once (it was the only option to get to Jaisalmer at the time) as it is too crowded. In 1AC I was the only female, and the others were, as juliesj says, government or business types. 2AC is a lot friendlier, but noisier. The side berths are the best, but I've never figured out how to be sure of getting one.

You should not be "struggling" with your luggage, as you should be traveling light, LOL. My trips are typically 2-4 months, and I travel with one carry on size bag (used to be a backpack but is a wheelie these days), and a day bag big enough to hold all my electronics, pharma and a change of underwear and top. On trains your luggage shares your compartment. There is storage under the lower bunks and over the doors, so not a whole lot of room.

OReilly - Lots of great advice here already. We've been to India multiple times but I have to say the places I'd add to your itinerary would be some of the smaller heritage hotels around Udaipur, this would give you the chance to visit some of the places Mr. Singh mentioned Ranakpur or Kumblagarh etc. We loved Bassi Fort Palace, Ravla Khempur, Deogarh and Rohet gah which is a little further afield. I'd really try to add in a rural heritage hotel. These have always been our favorite stop on out Indian travels.


http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2015/...istory-in.html

OR,if you could manage a night or two in the Chettinad region of Karaikudi it'll be well worth it.Its a wee little off course between Tanjore and Madurai.Probably,could skip the night in Trichy (a day visit) and drive straight there,a mere 100kms or less.Take a look

http://www.natgeotraveller.in/magazi...-short-breaks/

This region is steeped in tradition.Classic,vintage and the true essence of Tamilnadu preserved and pickled in time.A stay in one of the heritage properties such as Bangala,Chidambara Vilas,the Chettinadu Mansion or the Saratha Vilas,is an experience by itself.The cuisine is legendary,spicy hot and aromatic.South Indian food to die for!!I'm envious.

You could easily skip Thekkady. Its long detour from Madurai and touristy and the Periyar sanctuary has little to offer and disappointing.

Agree about Chettinad.

See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...-by-chettinad/

Women-only cars in trains:

Never saw that...in fact, just the opposite, sort of a surprise on the sleeper trains. I was traveling alone, but fortunately, the other folks were a couple and an old "auntie" who had to be awoken when we reached her stop!!

Otoh, the subway/metro train system in Delhi includes women-only cars. I haven't used the subway there, but heard only good things from fellow travelers in New Delhi.

Women drivers:

http://azadfoundation.com/women-on-wheels/

A great enterprise! Ger, you may not be in Delhi long enough to use their services, but they now also drive in Jaipur!!

Question for Thursdaysd, if you see this. Just read your interesting blog about Chettinad. Noticed you first tried stay in Chettinadu Mansion, but it was full and you went to the Bangala. What made you choose the Chettinadur Mansion as first choice? (It is recommended by travel folks I use.also.) I've read that the town/village where it is located (Kannadukathan) is quieter than is Karaikudi. Do you recall if this is correct? As i wrote in first response post, above, there is also a more "upscale" CGHEarth property in Kannadukathan called Visalam.

@CaliNurse, sorry I really can't remember! I did take a look at the guidebooks I still have from that trip, Fodors just lists the Bangala, and Lonely Planet has a brief paragraph listing the Chettinadu Mansion and Visalam, and calling them palaces, so that's probably why I tried them first as I was splurging for New Year's Eve.

I would not say that Karaikudi was at all busy.

Thank you, Thursdaysd! The palaces do look amazing. The more I read on this region, and the Chettinad culture and food (-: the more it seems worth a trip off the beaten track...'til it too becomes part of the beaten track.

Hello all:

Apologies for the tardy responses – long hours in work I am afraid! I hope I don’t miss anyone out in my responses.
As always, grateful for your responses.

Best regards … Ger
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Thursdaysd:

Thank you, I have downloaded your trip reports and your blog, and look forward to reading both, particularly as we are follow solo female traveller. I appreciate your advice re being cautious, as a lone female traveller.

I am still avoiding Varanasi, because I have to make choices: The more I read of Tamil Nadu, the more passionate I am about spending more time there. But, thank you for another passionate vote for Varanasi.

Interesting that you and others have mentioned the Chettinad area, as I have been researching the area, based on a food programme I watched on BBC. I am trying to build it into to schedules.

Re safety: I explored the option of group, but its not going to work for me. However, I will be careful about decisions to wander around at night on my own. I live in London – there are a few ‘hoods that I would avoid wandering around in the dark. And some in broad daylight. Caution will be the watchword, and I will not venture out without a chaperon.


Re the packing: My preferred packing for India would involve many bearers, camels and donkeys :). I do take the point, but I think its highly unlikely I am going to ever get away with less than one medium/large suitcase and one carry-on.

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Mr Singh

Thanks you Sir – you appear to understand my ‘mind-set’. Some comments on your recommendations, which are all wonderful.

I am actually far more drawn to Amritsar, Ajanta & Ellora Caves, than I am to Varanasi. However, I think I will struggle to include any of these in my first trip to India.

Mount Abu & Ranakpur I am trying to build into my itinerary for my stay in Udaipur.

You said: “Hindu architecture well expressed in the vaishnavite temples of Orchha & the splendid synthesis of architecture-sculpture of Khajuraho; Indo-Islamic structures are hewn all over the north,central India & in the south, where the wealthy kings of Golconda managed to create great pieces of art”:

Response from me: Now I think you are planning my NEXT trio to India, but many thanks to you for the recommendations. I will check them out and see if any are possible.

RE Southern Indian Dravidian style – yes, I can see my trip there extending, and all of these areas are on my list – I just need to understand how will manage to include all I want to see.

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welltraveledbrit

Excellent recommendations – many thanks. I have put the sites you suggested into the planning mix, some of which I know of already, some are new – many thanks for the new.
Wonderful website – you are enticing me to explore new areas 

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inquest

Thank you: Great recommendation re Chettinad, and I am checking out that area. I am quite excited about this area, mainly because of the FOOD, which is apparently unique, delicious and extraordinary. Maybe I need more time in the region, or to redesign the itinerary

Thank you for the website.

Regards ... Ger

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Overall
It is not that I feel overwhelmed by India, but I do feel ‘spoilt for choice’: There is so much I want to see and experience, and India has so much to offer.

Its just like a meal at one of the great London Indian restaurants like Benares (http://www.benaresrestaurant.com/). Its a feast for the eyes, smell and taste, and one is inclined to gorge, as everything is so enticing and delicious.

I have to make difficult choices, and, one of the choices I am considering is to avoid staying in ALL larger cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Agra, Chennai, Calcutta etc.) totally, and use them only as connection points to other places.

I am working on the itinerary.

I continue to be thankful for all your wonderful advice.

Best regards … Ger

I wouldn't put Agra into the same "big city" class as the other four you list, and the Taj really is magnificent. However, I have no problem with skipping three of the other four - I do think that it might be worth experiencing one. My choice would be Kolkata, but I was there for Durga Puja, which no doubt influenced my view, and there are worthwhile sites in Delhi.

I entirely understand the desire for bearers and camels (we're in the wrong century), but still urge you to downsize. I'm posting a link to my packing list below. It's actually three posts (links at the top of the page). It is somewhat out of date, as I have updated the electronics, and my main bag is now a 22 inch wheelie, and not a back pack (although still from Eagle Creek), but what goes in it is otherwise pretty much unchanged:

https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...take-part-one/

Yes, there is too much to do and see in India. Intact that's my whole assessment of the place it's too much of it all, heat and dust, good and bad, lavish luxury, poverty, free, dry, new, old - you get the cliche!

I completely understand avoiding the bigger places, I went to India three times before I made it to Agra. We loved Delhi, but I think that's because we were visiting friends there. I have to say Calcutta was also a highlight of one trip. However, india's a huge place and any trip you take there is all about what you didn't see. But that's ok because there are endless reasons to go back!

IN terms of luggage I travel with a 24 inch suitcase and a fold away Longchamp bag that is "birthed" if I do some shopping. I alway end up leaving India with a lot more than I arrived with. I love the textiles so my advice would be don't load yourself down on the way there because you'll only add to the stuff! However, having said that if you have a car and driver the luggage will be taken care of anyway.

Geri - I always prefer smaller cities, but found Delhi surprisingly fascinating. there are a lot of amazing sites there.