Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1
 

Please let me know what you think of my itinerary. I have my international tickets for an August 31 departure, and a September 24 return, but I have made no other commitments, not even the flight between Sri Lanka and India. I have not yet started looking for drivers, because I wanted to refine my itinerary first. If you have been to one country, but not the other, please join in, as I think we can jump back and forth quite successfully..

My interests include history, culture, nature, and hiking. I am not interested in beaches or sleeping on a houseboat. My Sri Lanka plan is atypical, as I wanted to spend a fair amount of time hiking, at the expense of visiting the hill country. I will see tea plantations in Munar, India, instead. I had some difficulty planning the India portion. For example, I could not find much information about public ferries in Kumarokam.

Thank you in advance for your help.


Thu Aug 31 - Leave LAX

Fri Sept 1 - Arrive Colombo (via HKG) at 11:15 PM,
Sleep in Negambo

Sat Sept 2 - 7 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Dambulla, see the caves
Sleep in Dambulla

Sun Sept 3 - Day trip to Mihintale and Anuradhapura
Sleep in Dambulla

Mon Sept 4 - Day trip to Polonnaruwa, and dusk game drive in Minnerya
Sleep in Dambulla

Tues Sept 5 - Day trip to Sigiriya Rock, and see wildlife in surrounding area with a guide, go to Ritigala if time permits
Sleep in Dambulla

Wed Sept 6 - Drive from Dambulla to Horton Plains National Park, short hike with a guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Thu Sept 7 - More hiking in Horton Plains with a guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Fri Sept 8 - Drive from Horton Plains to Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, short hike with a guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sat Sept 9 - More hiking in Sinharaja with a guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sun Sept 10 - 5 AM driving departure to Colombo for short city tour and lunch, 2:05 PM flight to Kochi, arrive 3:25 PM
Sleep In Kochi

Mon Sept 11 - See synagogue, walk around city, 5 PM Kerala Kathakali dance performance
Sleep in Kochi

Tues Sept 12 - Take pre-arranged taxi to Kumarokom, take public boat for sightseeing
Sleep in Kumarokom

Wed Sept 13 - More public boats in another direction?
Sleep in Kumarokom

Thu Sept 14 - 8 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Munar, stopping in Muvattupuzha en route
Sleep in Munar

Fri Sept 15 - Driving tour of Munar area
Sleep in Munar

Sat Sept 16 - Drive to Madurai, see sites en route? Which ones?
Sleep in Madurai

Sun Sept 17 - Driving tour of Madurai
Sleep in Madurai

Mon Sept 18 - Drive to Chettinad, see mansions en route
Sleep in Chettinad

Tues Sept 19 - Driving tour of more Chettinad mansions
Sleep in Chettinad

Wed Sept 20 - Drive to Tanjore, where to stop en route?
Sleep in Tanjore

Thu Sept 21 - City Tour of Tanjore - temples, library, gardens
Sleep in Tanjore

Fri Sept 22 - Drive to Mababalipuram, stopping at Puducherry en route, say goodbye to driver
Sleep in Mababalipuram

Sat Sept 23 - Walk around Mababalipurm, keep hotel for the day, pre arranged taxi to Chennai airport in the evening

Sun Sept 24 - 1:40 AM flight from Chennai to LAX, via Hong Kong

Excited about your trip, but cannot help you much as I am also in planning stages.
My question is if you have obtained your visa for India. I am finding the website very complicated and wondering if you can share your experience.
How long did it take for you to get back your passport from the visa office.
Thanks for your help. Enjoy planning your trip.

wow its sounds good hope you will enjoy your trip.

ileen - It's too soon for me to apply for a visa, but it can be done easily online. I have been to India before, but not this region, so if you post your itinerary as well (in a new thread), I can perhaps help, as well as many other people here.

VishikhaYdav - Thank you. I'm sure there are some weaknesses in the itinerary. I'm hoping to hearing from others who have been to these places.

CaliforniaLady, we leave tomorrow for southern India and will see many of your destinations. I will be posting from the road. I'll make note of names and places for you, but am pretty hopeless inserting links.

ileen, I found the VFS global website a bit cumbersome,with no option to print a blank form and hand write the details, but I got there in the end. Our PPS we're back within a week (I'm Australian, so it might be different for you).

I didn't find a guide necessary for hiking at Horton, but I only did the hike to World's End.

I think the Chinese nets are worth seeing in Kochi. I also enjoyed the Anglican church and Catholic cathedral, but I was there for the Christmas services.

"Driving" tour of Madurai?

On the way to Tanjore? Trichy.

Looks like a good trip!

sartoric - I studied your posts when I planned my trip, and it helped quite a bit. I look forward to hearing about your trip. Thank you, and have a safe trip.

thursdays - It's great to hear from you, as you are one of the rare species who has been to both areas. I thought I needed a guide at Horton to point out wildlife, but we'll see. I appreciate your reassurance about Kochi, as I was thinking of skipping the city entirely. When I said "driving tour of Madurai" I meant that I have the driver anyway, so why not let him drive around the city and surrounding areas for the day. Thanks again, as always, for your great help.

And two more questions for everyone out there:

1. Do I need to pay the Sri Lanka driver for September 7 and 9, since I am basically hiking both days? If so, should I use him to take me to the trails, and maybe to dinner?

2. How about some suggestions for drivers? So far, I will contact BSL and Camlo Lanka for Sri Lanka, but how about India?

Cali, your Sri Lanka time is very well planned. You will get a driver quote for your whole trip, and your driver will be available to you for the whole trip. Since the price you pay is a combination of your driver's fees (including his food and lodging, often supplied for "free" by the places you are staying) and mileage, you won't be paying as much for those days since you won't be using up your mileage allocation. I think you will find the fee for a car and driver to be very reasonable.

We haven't yet been to Southern India - it's still on our list! This looks like a wonderful trip.

Thanks, Kathie. I actually used some of your previous posts for guidance for the Sri Lanka framework. It's such a nice idea to take day trips from Dambulla. That's great advice about the drivers. I should just get in contact with BSL, in order to get a price quote.

Now another question for everyone:

I generally like to take control of my trips, so I would prefer to make my own hotel bookings in both countries. Is that typical? If so, do I ask the hotels about housing and feeding the driver? What are the pros and cons of booking my own hotels, versus having the agency do it?

Often (but not always) a local agency can get you better prices at hotels than you can get yourself. And if the agency is booking both hotels and your driver, all the driver's accommodations will be taken care of. Also, with a local agency booking, you may well get a room upgrade.

Remember that if you do use an agency, they are working for you and want you to be happy. So even if you book through an agency, you are still in control. Also, I have heard some horror stories of people showing up to their hotel booked online to discover the hotel didn't have them on the list. If you book with a local agency that is very unlikely to happen and if it did your driver would be on the phone right away to resolve it.

But see what kind of price quotes you get.

Having the agency book the hotels doesn't mean you can't tell them which ones you want.

You'd need the driver to get to Horton in any case.

That makes sense, Kathie, thanks. I hate to keep pestering you, but here is my new question: Given that it makes sense to have the agency book the hotels, how proactive should I be in their selection? Should I google around, and give them a list in my price range, or should I ask them for ideas?

Bored at the airport, so I'll jump in. To answer your last question, do both. Give them your price range, the style of property you like and ask for suggestions. Also check out the popular booking websites. I like Booking.com. Then seek advice from from Fodorites who may be able to help your decision with some firsthand experience.
At least you have plenty of lead time !

I agree with sartoric. I always do both. I usually have particular hotels in mind, and if I don't I'll give the agency some guidelines. And I always check once they have given me a recommendation and give them feedback.

CalifLady, this is difficult (-: I've just read Sartoric's itinerary, am now reading yours, and am consumed with jealousy...but in the nicest possible way.

In answer to your question about drivers/accommodations/agency: Agree with Kathie about use of and reasons for agency in India. However, the drivers, afaik, make their sleeping arrangements. They get a rupees allowance from their employer, toward their overnight accommodations' price. Very few hotels have specific dorms for drivers (I've been to a few, but they're usually the larger resort places.) IF you are traveling via Innova (SUV), it is very common--in fact, the norm-- for the driver to sleep in the back of the SUV. They can then save their sleeping allowance money (which is totally fine with the agencies--it's common knowledge) land allows them to keep an eye overnight on the car and your valuables. That drivers sleep in the car, yet are refreshed, immaculate, with neatly pressed uniform each morning, is still a source of wonder and admiration (in addition to knowing my life is in their hands on the roads there!)

Re your itinerary, I don't know Sri Lanka (waiting for your report to entice me!) so this comment pertains to end of itinerary. Consider instead doing an overnight in Pondicherry on September 22. Then, the next day, drive up to "Mahabs" and tour the famous carvings there. This will still leave sufficient time to get to MAA for your outbound flight at 1:40 am on Sept 24. Here's my reasoning, based not so much on my research, as stories over the years from friends: Pondy is unique (the French influence) and a great place for a walk through the town, beach promenade, shopping, eating, etc. Mahaballipuram of course is a town as well, with local restaurants , and hotels of all sorts (resorts as well as local) near the beach but mainly, you'll (I assume) be there to see the famous relief carvings. Again, this is based on numerous comments from friends whom I trust...NOT my personal experience.
I believe Dgunbug recently did this---stopping overnight in Pondicherry, then driving via a few hours' touring Mahaballipuram to the airport. Hopefully, she'll see this, or it might be on her trip report.
Tell me about Muvattupuzha --hadnt heard of it, and am always up to learn more!!
Kumarokom area is relativley (for India) quiet and peaceful. There are homestays along the backwaters near there, or actual resorts on the lake. The local public ferry goes from one side of Vembanad lake to the other (the Alleppey side). Sounds like great way to spend the day, and a great alternative to a houseboat. I think the ferry goes from Kottayam town (my first ever, and still fav Fabindia is there you're into set -price clothes shopping!).

Thank you sartoric and Kathie for your helpful advice about hotel bookings. It's always better to be proactive, isn't it?

CaliNurse - I was hoping to hear from you, since you have traveled extensively in South India. I will take your advice about spending the last night in Pondicherry, as it sounds like a smoother trip to keep my driver until the end. My last day, then, will involve some schlepping (from Pondicherry to Mahabs to the airport), but by then I will hopefully trust my driver to pace the day. I remember you saying that you have used Panorama India for your drivers, is that correct? I'll have to contact them first. Regarding Muvattupuzha, I saw it on a blog, and it looked interesting, but if you have never heard of it, then it must be a bust. Where would you stop instead? Also, another question: Is there enough to keep me busy in Kumarokom for 1 3/4 days? Are there two ferries that go in different directions, and if not, what else is there to do there?

Now, at the risk of becoming even more annoying, here's a question for everyone about drivers:

Assuming that I will use BSL for Sri Lanka, and Panorama India for India, what type of payment schedule do they want? Do you pay a certain percentage at a set time? Using a company to this large an extent is quite new to me. Thanks.

As best I remember I paid a deposit to BSL, and the remainder in Negombo at the start of the trip. That info should be on their website, along with their list of recommended hotels.

Hi California Lady,

I can't help you with India either, but when we visited SL a few years ago we stayed in Dambulla and did day trips, so i think I'm qualified to comment on that.

My main concern would be the order of your day trips - you will have had a long journey the day before from Negombo - about 4 hours, and you are following that with a trip to Anuradhapura, which is the furthest away of the places you want to visit from there.

personally I would go to Sigiriya Rock, the first day, [a very easy drive] Anuradhapura the second, and Polonnaruwa, the third. That way your longest drive falls on the middle day so you should be less tired for that and for the day on which you are moving on.

BTW the driving times on google maps are very approximate - many roads are full of potholes or worse and your fellow road users are extraordinary.

Also beware of game drives - they can degenerate into every jeep in the neighbourhood chasing after some poor unfortunate animal which is both dangerous for the animal and frustrating for the tourist. We were also present when some jeep drivers put themselves between a herd of elephants and the water they wanted to get to and it frankly wasn't safe.

All that said SL is a wonderful place and I'd love to go back.

where are you staying in Dambulla?

thursdays - I can see the hotels on the BSL website, but not the payment schedule. I'll see what they say about payments, and then I can always confirm in the Fodor's forum. I guess it's time to get trip insurance. My son just used World Nomads for travel insurance. Thanks, as always, for your advice.

annhig - I did indeed look at your thread when sketching out my itinerary. What you are saying about the order of day trips from Dambulla makes sense, and I will switch it accordingly. Based on what you said about game drives, I may cut the one in Minnerya. I believe Kathie went on one, but that was some years ago. When I researched the viewing of elephant herds there, I got the impression that they were very easy to spot, especially in September, but I could be wrong. So you actually went on a game drive in Sri Lanka, but did not find the experience pleasant? Thank you.

Here's the updated itinerary--what do you think?

Thu Aug 31 - Leave LAX

Fri Sept 1 - Arrive Colombo (via HKG) at 11:15 PM,
Sleep in Colombo

Sat Sept 2 - 7 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Dambulla, see the caves
Sleep in Dambulla

Sun Sept 3 - Day trip to Sigiriya Rock, and see wildlife in surrounding area with a guide, go to Ritigala if time permits
Sleep in Dambulla

Mon Sept 4 - Day trip to Mihintale and Anuradhapura
Sleep in Dambulla

Tues Sept 5 - Day trip to Polonnaruwa, and possible dusk game drive in Minnerya (or substitue other activity)
Sleep in Dambulla

Wed Sept 6 - Drive from Dambulla to Horton Plains National Park, short hike with nature guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Thu Sept 7 - More hiking in Horton Plains with nature guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Fri Sept 8 - Drive from Horton Plains to Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, short hike with nature guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sat Sept 9 - More hiking in Sinharaja with nature guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sun Sept 10 - 5 AM departure to Colombo for short tour and lunch, 2:05 PM flight to Kochi, arrive 3:25 PM
Sleep In Kochi

Mon Sept 11 - See synagogue, walk around city, 5 PM Kerala Kathakali dance performance
Sleep in Kochi

Tues Sept 12 - Take pre-arranged taxi to Kumarokom, take public boat for sightseeing
Sleep in Kumarokom

Wed Sept 13 - More public boats in another direction, what else?
Sleep in Kumarokom

Thu Sept 14 - 8 AM driver pick up (for the next ten days), go to Munar, where to stop en route?
Sleep in Munar

Fri Sept 15 - Driving tour of Munar area
Sleep in Munar

Sat Sept 16 - Drive to Madurai, see sites en route? Which ones?
Sleep in Madurai

Sun Sept 17 - City tour of Madurai
Sleep in Madurai

Mon Sept 18 - Drive to Chettinad, see mansions en route
Sleep in Chettinad

Tues Sept 19 - Driving tour of more Chettinad mansions
Sleep in Chettinad

Wed Sept 20 - Drive to Tanjore, stop in Trichy en route
Sleep in Tanjore

Thu Sept 21 - City Tour of Tanjore - temples, library, gardens
Sleep in Tanjore

Fri Sept 22 - Drive to Pondicherry, city tour
Sleep in Pondicherry

Sat Sept 23 - Drive to Mababalipurm, see the cave temples, drive to Chennai airport in the evening

Sun Sept 24 - 1:40 AM flight from Chennai to LAX, via Hong Kong

Forgive another wordy reply, California Lady!!

Re: Muvattupuzha ...just because I (or anyone else) hasn't heard of it, doesn't mean it's not worth a stop!! I love learning about new places! You've read something that appeals, which counts for a lot. However, I understand that we travelers (like me!) on rare and brief and likely once-only trips to a destination, usually prefer a "known entity."

Also, while you are not asking for accommodation recommendations, mentioning some places now partly answers your questions about the itinerary.

Thank you--I'm happy to help. However,in the name of not wanting to disappoint, I don't know if my experience is necessarily more extensive. While I've twice been to part of Southern India (Kerala, northern Tamil Nadu, small part of Karnataka) these were 2.5-3 week trips each, but there are other Fodorites who I think traveled as long or longer there, including JulieS, Thursdaysd, and others going back a few yrs. RJE and dgunbug, both mention interesting stopping points along your route, especially once you head out of Munnar toward Madurai. For ex, info already done, do Fodors or google word search for Fodors posts on Pondicherry, or Kumarokom, etc There are some, for exmple with photos, from Lata, among many others.

I am fortunate to have good friends and coworkers who have visited often, or live in the South of India. Much of my info comes from them. I try to be totally clear when it is my personal experience vs what I hear from people I trust.

Ok--some ideas to ponder. For breaking the journey between Kumarokom area, and Munnar, consider this place. It is on my "definitely" list for next trip to Kerala: http://dewalokam.in If checking the map nearest village is Karimannoor, the larger town is Thodopuzha. (Incidentally, when you see that "puzha" at end of word, it sounds more like "purra" when pronounced.)

JulieS stayed here and wasnt too enthused (-: However, a dear friend
(currently in Mumbai on trip #11 to India--who's traveled far, wide, and long in the country, said Dewalokam is fantastic. It is not inexpensive, but all meals are included. She said it's not a homestay, more like a small farmstead hotel. Read reviews on tripadvisor etc and see what you think. You don't say if you are traveling solo on this trip, Cali Lady. My friend did (as do I quite often) and she loved the warmth/welcome camaraderie of the family who owns it, and the other guests. If that doesnt appeal, a couple yrs ago I noted this small riverside homestay in the area http://tabernaclehomestay.com which likewise is not cheap=but which includes all meals. Accommodation prices in general, you'll find are higher than in the north /rajasthan areas (where i think you have been?) . Your prices might be better as you're going in "low" season.

Kumarokom area--we(daughter and I) stayed on that side of Vembanad Lake for three nights , and weren't bored for a second. Just watching life go by on the water outside the cottage...eating four fabulous meals all day ... boat trip one day, a car trip to Kottayam town and a visit at Coconut Lagoon Hotel another day...this is an area to kick back and enjoy life on the water, Kerala style. I love your idea of the public ferry!!!! As for time, it's not a quick ride---those local ferries make lots of stops, and this is your chance to see local life on the backwaters too.
We stayed the same said of the lake as Kumarokom, but north, closer to Vaikom, in a fantastic "farmstay" which was our big splurge but worth every rupee. http://philipkuttysfarm.com
There are many smaller/less $ homestays all through the backwaters. Note too that the travel agent i use and trust, thinks Kumarokom is not as interesting a side of Vembanad Lake/backwaters as is the Alleppey (Alapuzha) side.

Drivers: I've done it both ways--booking via the accommodation I'm at, and going with the company driver as part of the entire prebooked trip (including lodging).
I don't know if Indianpanorama (www.Indianpanorama.in) does "driver only" and if so, whether it is more or less $ than booking individually on an "as you go" basis. Admittedly, the older I get, the more "seamless" (as if that is even 100% possible in India!!) I want the journey to be--prearranged and trustworthy before and during the trip. You know the mantra--"that is just me" ! If you want to contact them, let me know, and i'll give you the best email to reach the person who helps me.

Note that 9/21, your second day in Tanjore, is the first day (of nine) of Navratri, a major Hindu Festival.

So you actually went on a game drive in Sri Lanka, but did not find the experience pleasant? Thank you.>>

from memory, we went on two, CaliforniaLady. The first was on the day we went to Polonnaruwa, which was followed by a visit to Minnerya; this was the time where we had the deaf and dumb game spotter [actually an excellent guide, once you got used to him] and it was ok until we got to the elephants where we felt very perturbed by the way in which so many vehicles were present and the way in which some of them were positioned which seemed to us downright dangerous.

the second was at Yala; because we had had the previous bad experience we insisted that they did not just chase round with all of the other jeeps pursuing the elusive leopards, and after we had repeated ourselves several times, the penny eventually dropped. Even so there was some chasing around after some poor animal at the end; i don't think we ever worked out what it was.

I don't want to put you off doing a game drive but if you want to avoid what to us appeared to be the worst aspects of this activity, you will need to be very clear about what you want.

Do you really want to start at 7:00 am after arriving just short of midnight (not counting time to clear immigration and customs and reach your hotel)?

Ann, we had the same spotter - who was very good. Some of the jeeps tried to get the big bull elephants to trumpet by chasing them around. I told our guide we didn't want our driver to of that and he spoke with the driver and it stopped. I think it helped to have our driver speak with him, rather than one of us.

Hi kathie - I didn't know that. once you caught on, his method of communication was excellent but i did think that it would have been helpful if we'd been told in advance, though perhaps they had tried that and found that people rejected his services.

anyway, I'm glad that you too protested about the way in which some of the drives appeared to be "organised" and that they took notice. The trouble is that for every tourist who objects, there are plenty more who are quite happy with what is happening or feel too shy to speak up.

thursdays - You are correct that it would have been insane to leave at 7 AM the first morning in Negambo. It looks like the Dambulla Caves are open until 7 PM, so a 9 AM departure sounds better. Thanks.

Ann and Kathie - Thanks for the interesting dialogue about game drives. I will contact BSL, and unless I can get some assurance that the animals will be treated humanely, I will pass. In any case, what is the name of your sight and hearing impaired guide? Did you book him via BSL? Thank you.

CaliNurse - What a wealth of information, thank you! However, I am most concerned about the Hindu Festival on September 21. Is this like Ramadan, where everything shuts down? Oi vay. Is Tim your contact at India Panorama? That's a great idea to research old trip reports--I only went back a year, but I'll go back further now. And yes, I am traveling alone. My husband doesn't like exotic destinations--he's more of a football watcher kind of guy, but he gives me carte blanche on his AA miles, so I can't complain.

Now that I have a somewhat acceptable itinerary, I have some more specific questions.


Sri Lanka:

1. Has anyone actually been to Sinharaja? It sounds beautiful, but there are supposed to be lots of leeches there.

2. I'm having trouble grasping how big the sites in the Cultural Triangle are. How long did you spend at each of the sites?

3. Awhile back, Coke Smith presented a wonderful trip report on wildlife in Sri Lanka, and he said he spent three days seeing wildlife around Sigiriya. Has anyone here done that, even for less time?

4. I will probably have three hours in Colombo on my last day. What do you suggest I do?


South India:

For the Kochi - Kumarokom - Munar - Madurai - Chettinad - Tanjore - Pondicherry - Mababalipurm route, what are you favorite/must sees along this route? I'll take suggestions for well-known as well as obscure sites.

Thank you!

Our driver knew all the best guides everywhere and so arranged them, including our hearing-impaired game guide. He was not sight-impaired. Because BSL doesn't own the vehicles or employ the drivers or guides, you'll have to make your request via your driver to the driver of the safari vehicle. It never hurts to say something to BSL in advance as well.

For my visit to Colombo see:
https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ncool-colombo/

I was not as impressed as I expected with Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura. The sites are quite large, but also very ruinous.

I went to Coorg and Coonoor, not Munar, so can't help too much with that section. I think all the sites I saw in Tamil Nadu are well known.

Three hours is not long for Colombo . I would suggest you head for Galle Face Green and the eponymous hotel. Then maybe head for The Pettah, the huge and manic Tamil market.

Most of the sites, like sirigiya , Anaurahadpur and Polonaruwa need the best part of half a day apiece. Quite enjoyed Polonaruwa but Anurahadpura didn't do a great deal for me., especially as it was Avery long drive to get there. I don't think you need to do both. My TR is @ http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-and-curry.cfm

Ritigala was well worth the effort.

Will write more soon, but wanted to put your mind to immediate rest . No oy vey needed--l'chaim is more like it! it will be good to have part if trip coincide with a festival!!! I was in India during Christmas one yr (remember, Kerala has a large Catholic population) and during Diwali another . Haven't been during Navratri but uf it is typical if Hindu if festivals, it will be even more colorful and lively than usual (which is saying a lot!) You might want to google about this particular festival--it occurs several times each year. Afaik, nothing shuts down, but I'll write to a Tamil friend to ask.

Kathie - Thanks for explaining how the BSL driver works to find guides. If you remember the name of the hearing-impaired game guide, or your contact person at BSL, please let me know.

thursdays - I just read your blog on Colombo. That's wonderful that you were able to visit where your father was stationed. Ruinous ruins in the Cultural Triangle? I better thoroughly read the history before setting out, so I can understand what I am seeing. Coorg and Coonoor look beautiful, but too far north for my itinerary. Oh well, maybe next time? Thanks again.

Crellston - The stop in Colombo is just an afterthought on the way to the airport. I always like big, gritty cities in small doses. Thanks for the tip about Ritigala, I was wavering about it.

CaliNurse - Good to know the Festival will enhance, not detract from my trip. We went to a wedding in Varanasi, and it was quite an experience. Lots of dancing and music. Thanks.

forgot to mention on your 2nd day you can easily go to both Dambulla caves and Sigiriya..they both are nearby..Also as you leaving from Negambo at 7 am you have plenty of time for this..

Also don't stay in dambulla.. For Sigiriya, polonnaruwa, mihinthale and safari the best base is HABARANA.. So stay there..


if you go sigiriya on 2md Sep day you can easily go ritigala on 5th Sep..xxx

Most of the sites, like sirigiya , Anaurahadpur and Polonaruwa need the best part of half a day apiece. Quite enjoyed Polonaruwa but Anurahadpura didn't do a great deal for me., especially as it was Avery long drive to get there. I don't think you need to do both.>>

We didn't go to Anuradhapura, as we reckoned it was just too far, and we only had 3 nights at Dambulla so something had to go; otherwise I would say that Crelston is right on the money - you need to allow at last half a day for each sight plus the time to get there of course. you are going at the same time of year that we went and I can tell you that it's hot - we weren't able to spend that long outside our air-conditioned van on the first day, which was spent at Polonaruwa. The site there is very big, and there is also a museum [blessedly air-conditioned] Also you have to take your shoes off to go inside temples and my feet couldn't stand it so I stayed in the van. What I wish I had done is to buy a hat from one of the vendors there - they were quite nice and very cheap.

As for Sigiriya, it's quite a climb. Take water with you as there is none up there. Make sure that your driver organises a guide for you and that you agree the cost first. Then if there is a problem you can ask your driver to sort it out.

After each trip our driver took us to a local restaurant which served both western style and Sri lankan food - the latter was almost alway better but actually some places do great toasted sandwiches if that's what you want.

We didn't get to Anuradhapura as we were there during the war and there was a recent bombing. BSL advised against going, and I gladly took their word for it. We loved Polonnaruwa and had a fabulous guide there who really knew his stuff. We typically study up about the sites we are going to visit, but very little is available in the West about the historic sites in Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka has about 3000 years of recorded history. We were glad to find that the museum at Polonnaruwa had excellent books about the historic sites.

Sorry, I don't have the names of any of our guides. Our excellent driver was named Aslam. I expect each driver has their favorite guides.

CalifLady--I heard from Tamil friend. During the festival (and other times) banks close only on weekends. ATMs there, as here, are always "open.'
Shops will be open, as people purchase things to celebrate the festival. Some temples will be more crowded during the festival, in particular those dedicated to the goddess who is celebrated /honored at this time--Durga. The last two days of the nine days are most important--you'll be home by then.
I also found via internet that in Tamil Nadu, this festival is celebrated with women making small dolls.
If you're in the temple, or in the streets, do be careful if it looks very crowded!!

Re money, had happy message from friend today who is there. ATM limit per transaction was just increased to 10,000 rupees=about $140. See my new forum post about this.

Ann - Thank you again for all your help. It seems like Anuradhapura was not exactly a trip highlight for thursdays or Crellston. I do like the idea of spending four nights in Dambulla, so I may go anyway. Alternatively, I will research spending more time seeing wildlife around Sigiriya. I'm a little concerned about the burning feet you experienced in September. I'm wondering if I can wear some cheap socks, maybe in a beige color. Would anyone notice or care?

Kathie - I'm going to ask BSL if Aslam can drive me, even thirteen years later. It sounds like you used a fair amount of guides on your Sri Lanka trip. I didn't know that the guides are arranged through the drivers--thanks for the tip.

CaliNurse - That's great news that all will be open during the festivals. I don't mind the crowds, as I'm a good people watcher. During our 2009 trip to India, I was amazed at the gorgeous sari colors, and bangle bracelets that the women wore. Thanks for checking for me.

I'm a little concerned about the burning feet you experienced in September. I'm wondering if I can wear some cheap socks, maybe in a beige color. Would anyone notice or care?>>

probably not, we weren't bright enough to have taken any with us!

You could ask BSL to suggest something else in the area.

Usually, bare feet are required in temples, but do ask BSL.

It's been a decade sine we were there - I wonder if Aslam is still driving. Yes, many sites it was useful to have a local guide for just a few dollars.

Thank you, Ann and Kathie, for going the extra mile with my trip planning. I read in an old thread here (2011) that someone suggested putting masking tape on the bottom of one's feet when going into temples. I'll ask BSL.

I decided to keep my itinerary as I updated it on January 14, which will include Anuradhapura . As Kathie says, the temples in the cultural triangle are truly unique. I just did a search for cultural triangle history books from my local library, and there were none. I'll keep looking.

I'll let you know, Kathie, if Aslam is still around.

Please do!

Kathie, Aslam is no longer driving. Here's part of the response I received from BSL:

"... Unfortunately Aslam is no more with us, but we will provide one of the best drivers for you."

Does anyone have a good driver that they used with BSL in the last couple of years? I would prefer someone who comes highly recommended, as he would have contacts with the best guides, etc.

Also, BSL said they will give me a total quote for driver, car, and hotel upon me sending my itinerary. However, I have not started looking at hotels at all. Has it been your experience to get a separate quote for the car and driver, and another for the hotels? Or is it a combined quote?

Sorry to sound so inept. I have never used a travel agency before to this extent, so this is all new to me.