Back in the US...took sleeping pill and will try to sleep shortly. Could tell we weren't in Asia anymore right when we entered the Westin at LAX for our overnight....bad service, bad room, bad breakfast the next am. in the SPG lounge served up with attitude...an extremely rude, complaining taxi driver who complained about his tip. ($12 fare for a five minute ride?) ..and oh, yes, when we arrived in FL our luggage didn't...but it did arrive today about 2pm. Hadn't lost any luggage or had a delayed connection in all our flights over 5 weeks.

It really made me realize just how wonderful the people we were exposed to in SE Asia are...and what customer service is all about.

When I get the laundry done etc. will catch up on my trip report.

welcome home and we are awaiting your words

Glad you made it home! Yes, S E Asia is all about customer service, isn't it. The people keep drawing me back (BKK feels like a home away from home).

Hanoi continued:

Next am still didn’t feel great so it was mint tea and toast in the club lounge. Cool, cloudy and drizzly again. Took a taxi to the Temple of Literature.

Note: Although we had insisted on the meter, the taxi driver took the “scenic” route to the Temple....my husband’s hand-held GPS showed quite a circuitous route there...and when we arrived he called the driver on it, and he somewhat sheepishly accepted less money. I actually don’t mind because it’s all touring to me...and I had to keep reminding him that we’re only talking a dollar at most...taxis were incredibly cheap. At the beginning of the ride, it’s difficult to know if you’re being taken out of your way because of the one -way or difficult turn patterns. And, I believe this was a Ha Noi taxi, who along with Mai Linh, is recommended.

Back to the temple...it’s a series of four pavilions that used to be the entrance to the country’s first and prestigious university for the training of Mandarins in Confuciusism, that dates back to the 11th century. After entering through a magnificent stone gate, you’re treated to a variety of Chinese architectural details...a pavilion hall, a lotus pond, stone stelae, and the famous turtle statues that you rub the heads for good luck.

Normally, this would be a serene and park-like setting ideal for contemplation. Today, it was teeming with youthful activity.....one of the courtyards was filled with children, looked like 9-12 years olds, wearing colorful red and gold silk gowns, many seated at low desks, with proud parents milling about. There were speakers at a stage and some media....and I asked if this was a graduation. No, this was instead the results of a national competition for the best scholars, in keeping with the original heritage of the place where candidates took a series of exams with the emperor (or was it the king?) selecting the final mandarins. Quite fun to see all the kids up close & freely take photos. I got a kick out of how many students wore glasses...fit the image. At the back of the complex in the pavilion, a traditional Vietnamese orchestra was playing which was quite enjoyable.

Following this, we walked across the street to Craft Link, which features handicrafts made by various ethnic hill tribes, such as the Hmong and the Dao. Loved the shop and bought several cute little purses. Couldn’t manage more shopping so went back to the hotel. We think it’s pretty cool here ( a contradiction to my trip report title!) and I’m so glad I brought a pair of slacks, a sweater and a windbreaker...all is needed. But the Hanoians are wearing quilted ski parkas, hats and gloves as they’re zipping around on motorbikes so they really must think it’s cold. I’d guess it’s in the upper 50’s.

The little deli/sandwich place at the Sofitel Metropole called La Epicerie was just what I needed for some comfort food....we split a little pizza and it was good. After napping for awhile, we decided to walk around the French Quarter. All we actually saw was the impressive Opera House...and then the lure of the silk shopping street Hang Gai was calling me from afar....even in my weakened state I heard it.

So, we changed course and walked back around the other side of Hoan Kiem Lake. Plus, I couldn’t leave Hanoi without walking across the red lacquer Bridge of the Rising Sun to Ngoc Son Pagoda, which was very decorative with many offerings on the altars. A little sun would’ve helped the photos.

By now, we’ve gotten the hang of crossing the street. My husband compares it to when you’re snorkeling and you swim through a school of fish without any of them touching you (hopefully!)

It’s funny how my perception of Hang Gai street has changed. When I first arrived, it looked really junky, messy and dirty. Now, I can see the good stores and appreciate the uniqueness of the architecture through the dingyness and chaos. I just bought a few gifts but appreciated the shopping experience more. And my husband was content to stand outside and watch the fascinating world zoom by....people of all ages, young girls with high heel shoes and designer Burberry helmets, little old ladies gunning the throttle, whole families on a bike with a baby up front and toddler in between the parents (I shudder at the safety of this).

Walked up the other side of Hoan Kiem lake to stop at the famous Franny’s for ice cream....ice cream was good but don’t bother with a cappucino.

Feeling so cold and achy so decide to forego dinner out, and headed up a flight to the Club Lounge for our “dinner”. They really put out a lovely appetizer spread and will make you any type of cocktail, wine or beer..all included in your room rate. By the way, did I mention that I used Vietnam Stay (also known as Aurora travel based in HCMC) to book this and the Caravelle in HCMC at a very reduced rate? Highly recommend.

Tomorrow: Ha Long Bay

Before I continue with Ha Long Bay, I just had some closing thoughts on Hanoi. I really feel like I "failed" Hanoi...there was so much more I had planned to see...and so many unique local restaurants that I planned to eat at and dishes to try...like Bac Cha and Pho....and so many stores unshopped....but I just didn't feel like it. So, I can't say that I loved Hanoi...I found it very interesting but I only feel like I scratched the surface of it...but that was enough for me. Of course, I recognize that feeling ill and dreary weather doesn't help.

HA LONG BAY, VIETNAM

The Emeraude was our choice for the one-night cruise along Ha Long Bay. Their driver picked us up promptly at 8:30am and we were off for the long drive, with the pit stop at the obligatory ceramics showroom. We saw rice paddies just 1/2 hr outside Hanoi, but mostly we drove through very industrial towns...the worst being a coal mining town where the streets are black from the coal dust. It was surprising to see that even new houses are built in the traditional tube style...extremely narrow, tall and extending very far back. The homes are mostly built of concrete and often only the facade is painted and decorated, with the sides of the home being plain concrete.

Arrived at their departure cafe lounge almost at noon, and the other passengers were waiting for us to board the tender to take us all to the Emeraude.

It was cool and gloomy again...not an auspicious start for a scenic cruise. The Emeraude is a lovely replica paddle steamer from the early 1900’s with three decks, 39 cabins, decked out in polished wooden floors, brass fittings and a lot of teak. The very personable cruise director told us “You have the ship to yourself” and he was right. There were only 14 total people on our cruise... 4 were Hungarians, 4 Brits, 2 Vietnamese and 2 French...and us 2 Americans. No one really mixed though. He said that Saturday’s were less busy because it’s a turnaround day for travelers.

Our room was cozy with just enough space to get out of the “2-twin beds pushed together” on each side...rattan paneled walls, dark wood floors, a window, small hanging garment area with sink and mirror, separate toilet hand/held shower area. If you showered, the toilet seat would get wet. It would be best to arrive with just an overnight case, but since we were leaving from the airport the next day, we had all our luggage with us. There were two cushioned deck chairs outside our room facing the railings.

Shortly after a welcome fruit juice drink, lunch was served. Normally, I believe it’s a buffet. But since there were so few people on board, it was a four course set menu cooked to order. Excellent.

The boat was more charming than luxurious. The curved railings at the bow and stern of the ship were pleasing to the eye. The seas were as calm as glass and it felt as if we were barely moving....4-5 miles per hour. After lunch, we sat outside our room and watched the craggy karst formations drift by in the cloudy weather. Again, a little sun would have made a world of difference.

At 2pm, we took the tender to Sung Sot (Cave of Awe) or Surprise grotto, where many more boats were docked and small row boats plied the waters with kids and women selling shells, etc. After a climb up of 187 steps, (who’s counting?) the cave was surprisingly good. I’ve been to Mammoth Cave and a cave in Utah, and I liked this the best. It was warm and dry, not what I expected, and opened up into two huge chambers, colorfully lit in places. I especially liked the ceiling, which resembled sculpted waves or whipped cream....and there were interesting formations, the most famous being a huge phallic shape, and various other forms that the guide said resembled animals, etc. The exit was less strenuous and the whole excursion took about 45 minutes.

About an hour later, we came upon the Cua Van Fishing Village. I had just awoken from a nap (boy I’m sleeping a lot on this trip), and we got down to the tender just as they were pulling away. I was a little disappointed, when Tomas, the cruise director, came up and asked if we didn’t want to go. I said we had missed the tender and he insisted on getting another to drive us around the fishing village, It was very gracious of him. It was fascinating to see how the people lived on these floating homes and they and the children were very friendly....waving and yelling hello.

Because the weather was marginal, we didn’t want to take the kayaks out for a ride. So, I decided to try the Traditional Vietnamese massage. It was very similar to what I’m used to except for a little more reflexology thrown in. Very enjoyable except it was given in a standard cabin on a regular twin bed, with no hole cut out for your head. It was uncomfortable, and I think dangerous, to have your neck worked on when it’s elevated. I offered the suggestion to the staff that they need to have a regular massage table.

Following this, met G (my husband) on the upper deck for a pre-dinner “Miss Saigon” cocktail...canapes not very good. Quickly dressed for dinner...just changed to a nicer slacks and top...most people were wearing what they had on that day. An excellent dinner again....chopped dragonfruit & mango with shrimp salad, seafood bisque soup, sauteed sea bass and Australian grilled steak (we got one of each) and a flour-less chocolate cake with strawberry sauce. Tomas said they feature more western style food because people like the change from a more asian menu.

After dinner, we retired to the upper deck where we were the only ones to watch the intriguing but very long movie, Indochine...blankets provided to keep us warm on the chilly night. Ha Long Bay was featured in several scenes of the movie, which is set in Saigon during the colonial days.

The next morning, we were off the boat by 9:30 and driven to the Hanoi airport. At first, the company was going to charge me extra for being taken to the airport instead of Hanoi, but when I questioned the charge since the airport is actually closer, they charged me the normal rate.

We got to the airport around 12:45, and unfortunately, Vietnam Airlines had previously cancelled the earlier flight we had booked, and now we had to wait until 7:30pm to depart for Hue. Trust me, you do not want to spend all that time in the domestic terminal....not even an internet to use....so I went to the Business Class Lounge of Vietnam Airlines and asked if we could pay to use their lounge. Since we had such a long wait, for $20 each we were able to stay there. Definitely worth it. We were able to eat lunch (my first Pho, although it was instant, it still tasted great), get drinks, use their computers, and sit quietly in very comfy chairs.

Next: HUE, VIETNAM

gearing me up for my time in VN next fall

rhkkmk,
Hope the weather is better for you then.

HUE, Vietnam

I originally was going to skip Hue since the main draw is the Citadel and I thought it would be just a fort and boring. Actually, the complex is like a small city and was designated a World Heritage site in 1993. Luckily, several people on Fodors remarked how much they enjoyed the city, so I added two nights to our itinerary. I should have added one more night. We didn’t get to see much of the city, and I would have liked to bicycle along the exterior walls of the Citadel.

We arrived at La Residence hotel, located along the Perfume River directly opposite the Citadel, late at night. We had booked a special package that included airport transfers. Our room was fine but more like a regular hotel room rather than a suite, compared to our previous rooms. However, it opened up onto a large, shared terrace that looked across a park-like area to the river. Beautiful view. I had only paid for a standard room, so was thankful for the river view, even if it was on the first floor. If you have a choice, request an upper floor room for a better view. The hotel, located in what’s called the European part of the city, used to be the residence of the French ambassador to Vietnam and is very charming with an Art Deco ambience.

After a decent buffet breakfast (skip the pre-made waffles and pancakes), we hired a cyclo to pedal us across to the Citadel. After the cool and gloom of Northern Vietnam, it was a welcome change to have a sunny, warm day. It was a beautiful ride along the river, past the pretty high school where both Ho Chi Minh and South Vietnam’s ex-president Diem had attended, until we crossed the bridge and entered through the beautiful Noon Gate into the Imperial City.

The Citadel was built in 1804 and modeled after the Forbidden City in Beijing and served as Vietnam’s political capital until 1945. The huge fortress consisted of three consecutive enclosures....first: the exterior walled enclosure, second: the Imperial City and third: the Forbidden Purple City where the emperor actually lived. Before we came to Vietnam, we didn’t realize how strong the Chinese influence was here. Each of the Nguyen emperors who lived here used Chinese decorative symbols and architecture in their various temples.

This Forbidden City was partly destroyed during the French war, but the complex was finished off during the Tet Offensive in 1968 when the Viet Cong took over the Citadel. Now all you see is a large overgrown grassy area with the remnants of the original buildings.

Several of the buildings have been beautifully restored. We especially liked the Thai Hoa Palace ( Palace of Supreme Harmony), which served as the throne and reception area for the emperors. A very helpful movie was shown in the back area which digitally recreated what the Citadel originally looked like, typical daily life and it’s significance to the emperors and Vietnam.

We loved walking around the beautiful grounds with stunning decorations, courtyards, other temples, and stone gates adorned with mosaics.

Afterward, we walked to the much written about restaurant Lac Thanh, run by a deaf mute family, where we sat upstairs on a narrow balcony, grafitti all over the walls. We had Banh Koai, a good but greasy fried crepe filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork and dipped in nuoc tuong (sesame and peanut sauce) and Bun Bo, an excellent beef noodle soup...all washed down with the local Huda beer. Lunch for 2 with mineral water...$5.

Another cyclo ride took us back to La Residence where their lovely pool awaited us. I actually found it too cool. At the pool, we met a lovely couple from CA, both born in Vietnam, but they’d left in their teens after the war on a boat. His bitterness was still evident as he described how his 17 yr old aunt had been rounded up and buried alive by the Viet Cong during the Tet Offensive. He also said to beware the cyclo drivers in Ho Chi Minh City. He had been quoted 50 for a ride, which he assumed to be 50,000 dong (about $5) since that’s how people speak. However, at his destination, the cyclo driver demanded $50 US (our little cyclo rides in Hue cost about $1 each) So, despite being Vietnamese and speaking the language, he was still ripped off. He ended up giving him $25 US since that’s all the cash he had.

Then, G & I had a 20min. back, neck and shoulder massage, provided in our package, in their lovely spa.

Also included was a multi-course Imperial Delight dinner. We were taken to a small, separate room, with two beautiful thrones (of course we had to pose for photos) , colorful silk royal garments, and other decorations for the feast. The American-Vietnamese couple was also there, along with one other couple. To give you an example of the food:
Green Papaya salad with shrimp; Bo La Lot (marinated beef in wild beetle leaves); Chao Tom (minced shrimp deep fried on sugar cane); Fresh Spring Rolls; Imperial Seafood Soup; Baked Prawn in glutinous flakes and fried shrimp roll stuck in a lit lantern made from pineapple; Sesame Beef with fresh noodles and veggies; Chicken lemon grass; Caramelized grouper w/ cashew nuts on sauteed morning glory; Braised pork ribs (the only bad dish); Pineapple fried rice with shrimp; and dessert: Lotus seeds in Longan fruit. Wow!

We were leaving the next afternoon for Hoi-An, a three hour drive away, with a driver that we arranged through Exotissimo, a Vietnamese tour operator who happened to have a desk at La Residence.

However, that gave us the morning to take an abbreviated boat tour along the Perfume River to see one of the emperor’s mausoleums and the Thien Mu Pagoda. We arranged this also through Exotissimo, and the rep recommended that we just take the boat to Thien Mu Pagoda, about a 1/2 hr trip, and then have a driver take us from there to Tomb of Tu Duc and back to the hotel. I didn’t like this idea as I thought we wouldn’t see enough of the Perfume River, so we arranged to take the boat round trip. I should have listened to him.

We met our Dragon boat owner in the lobby at 9am, hot already, and he walked us a short way down a side road to his boat. The dragon boats are colorful wooden boats that are used as tourist boats, and by law, you have to sit inside on a low plastic chair. His smiling wife, wearing a mismatched long sleeved shirt and trousers and a conical hat, climbed on board and the four of us set off. Almost immediately, she started laying out all her silk and other items that she wanted to sell us. I bought a couple of things and said that was it. But she kept trying to sell more...all with a nice smile, of course. And, I fell for one of the scams I had read about. I was going to buy one item for $20 ( I forgot to bargain) and she said she’d sell two for $30....so I decided to get two. When I gave her the cash, she said with consternation that she said $38. I should have said forget it, but I felt committed. I knew she had said $30, and it reminded me that you’re supposed to get them to write down the number, but I told her that I’d give her $35 and that was it. Oh well, she needs the money, and I did like her.

And, then the driver, who had one of those ugly facial moles with long strands of hair coming out...why don’t they cut them off?, kept asking if we were having lunch with him, or if we wanted to see more mausoleums, and we kept saying we had to get back by 12:30 to leave for Hoi-An. That’s the disadvantage of having a private boat tour...there’s no one else for them to hassle.

About an hour later with temperatures climbing, we arrived at the landfall for the Tomb of Tu Duc, which is about 1 1/2 miles uphill from the river. We’d arranged to be transported by xe om’s...basically a motorcycle taxi. So, I climbed on back with one guy and took off and my husband followed. That was fun...driving along a dusty, bumpy dirt road dodging cow pies....felt like we couldn’t get too injured out in the country. Once there, we arranged for them to meet us outside in 45 minutes...a quick tour.

Compared to the Citadel the previous day, this was a disappointment. More Chinese architecture and some of the ponds and pavilions were lovely. This was supposed to be the more elegant of the mausoleums but it was so hot and little shade along the main sites. However, it was set on a forested hill with a large lotus pond and tons of frangipani trees around, so the setting was pretty. Apparently, this emperor preferred his tomb site to his palace and spent a lot of time here before he died. Reportedly, he was buried with a large treasure, so everyone that worked on his burial was killed to prevent future grave desecration.

We jumped back on the motorcycles and headed back to our boat. We headed back upstream thirty minutes to arrive at the Thien Mu Pagoda (Pagoda of the Celestial Lady). This smaller charming pagoda’s octagonal seven-tier brick shape, built in the 1840’s, represents Buddha’s incarnations on Earth. From the top of the terrace there are lovely views of a wide expanse of the Perfume River.

Behind the Pagoda, you can view the powder blue Austin car that the infamous monk drove to Saigon in 1963, stepped outside, and immolated himself to protest President Diem’s repressive policies. There are photos of the event in the back of the garage. Also behind the pagaodaA is a garden filled with bonsai creations of the monks who live there.

We would have been happier with the shorter boat trip and just visiting this Pagoda.
At 1:30pm, our driver picked us up for the drive to Hoi-An. We had intended to go over the pass in the Marble Mountains, but I was feeling off and didn’t like the idea of winding mountain roads. So, we told him to take the more direct route through the tunnel.

Next: HOI-AN, Vietnam

great reporting.....do you remember the cost for the car to hoi an?

We paid $90 for the car to Hoi An....$40 for the private boat tour on the Perfume River.

thanks

To clarify my Perfume River recommendation, it would have been better to take the boat first to the Pagoda, then to as many mausoleums as you wish to see (there are 3 best ones) and then have a driver meet you at the last one and drive you back to Hue. That way, you don't have to repeat your boat trip which takes longer.

We learned something from a local about whether or not you can bargain. If you're in a store where there are price tags, then that is a firm price. But, if you have to ask what the price is and they tell you...then that's generally a flexible price. You'd be surprised how many shops don't have listed price tags, other than the markets. However, even with a price tag, it doesn't hurt to try...just don't be disappointed if the price doesn't come down.

Hello, thank you for a very honest and detailed report! Keep us updated whenever you've time and effort.

Cheers

Barefoot - So glad to read your continuing report. We are in Can Tho in the Mekong Delta now and it couldn't be hotter. We have plenty of sunshine and am surprised that we only encountered a short rain-shower. Be thankful for the overcast weather you experienced. This is our third and last night in Can Tho and it was so hot today that we stayed indoors for all but our 3 hour morning wanderings through the city and then for lunch. We especially enjoyed wandering through the less traveled areas of the city, exploring the markets and getting lost in the winding streets where the people live. The children and adults alike have all been friendly and delightful. We had intended to take a bike trip, but that wasn't happening in this heat. More to follow in my own report, although I must say, it will likely be abbreviated as your report has been so good.

Didn't realize you are from Florida. We are in Boca Raton. Where are you?

Bob - we were quoted I believe $50 to travel between Hue and Hoi An and I will provide the info later. I received the same quote from several sources.

Looking forward to your continued report. Tomorrow we fly to Hanoi and hope to get a bit of relief from this oppressive heat. We continue to enjoy our travels nevertheless.

happy_life, Thank you for your encouraging remarks. I do intend to get back to this asap. Still haven't finished unpacking totally, (not to mention the thousands of photos I have to go through to delete/edit), and we're leaving in a week to live up north for 5 months. (we're snowbirds)

dgunbug,
Glad to hear from you! We only had very hot & sunny weather in the south also, and I'm glad to hear I wasn't the only one affected by the heat! (despite our shared Florida heritage...we're in Bonita Springs, just north of Naples) I wish we had had time to tour Can Tho....just got off the boat there, which I still need to write about. Looking forward to reading your report about your experiences.

So, it sounds like I got ripped off by Exotissimo....$90 instead of $50. I wonder if I'd negotiated with them ahead of time and set up the transfer if I would have gotten a better deal. I had booked with them ahead for the Bassac cruise and I could have worked out the transfer details then.

The following is the info on the driving service between Hue to Hoi An: [email protected], [email protected]
http://www.vietnamdrive.com/coastal_drive_hoian_hue.htm
The price is $59 for a maximum of 3 people. We will let you know how it goes if we decide to use this company.

We are in Hanoi now and loving it. Barefoot - I'm interested to hear what you thought of Saigon and the Mekong. Truthfully, we were a bit dissappointed. I didn't think there's a whole lot to see in Saigon and the trip out to the tunnels and temple are very long for what you see. We spent 3 full days in Saigon and that seemed to be a bit too much for us, although the people were wonderful and watching the traffic was entertaining.

More later. Must awaken my husband who is having a bit of difficulty with his allergies. Time to explore.

dgunbug,
I'll try to get to that soon. My husband, who is normally not very allergic and I am, had a horrible time in Bali at night with all the burning....rice fields, cooking etc. When he finally took a Zyrtec, he felt much better. I actually didn't notice it....but then, I have a very bad sense of smell.

HOI AN, Vietnam

Stayed at the Life Resort Hoi An, which was a mid-size resort located along the river, just at the end of town. It had more of a European rather than a Vietnamese feel to it with peach colored stucco, white balustrades and columns, and white & green patterned tile floors. We had the standard room, but requested a second floor unit and ours overlooked the swimming pool, which really couldn’t be seen because we were eye level with the frangipani blossoms...beautiful. I’m not sure the extra money for a river view room would be worth it, because there’s a small road that runs between the resort and the river which could be noisy with the motorcycles zooming by.

The room itself was generous in size, with an outside cushioned seating banquette on both sides of your little terrace that opened to a long balustraded walkway that extended the length of several buildings, wooden louvered shutters and french doors leading in to a separate sitting area, and a stepped up sleeping area...all with nice tiled floors. The bathroom was decorated with small mosaic tiles, a raised sink bowl, tiled shower only, two windows, and the rooms were very clean if simply decorated. The grounds were richly landscaped with a large water lily pond. However, the service here was also not as generous as at previous places we stayed....no fruit basket, just two little bottles of water provided, and very hard foam pillows.

Our first impression as we ventured out to dinner was not very positive. We had to walk about 5 minutes along a very dark, and seemingly intimidating street (all in our minds) along the closed waterfront market area. After about 10-15 minutes, we reached the main restaurant/shopping area, which was better lit and more crowded.

Had dinner on an upstairs terrace at “the Cargo Club”, and enjoyed an excellent wood-fired pizza (I can only take so many noodles) and tried Hoi An’s famous White Rose dumpling specialty and crispy spring rolls...the last two were just OK. Walked back along the road that was third back from the river, which was better.

The next morning had their average buffet breakfast in a 2nd story dining area overlooking the river. Service is not as gracious here.

We borrowed the free bicycles and headed into town. It felt wonderful to ride a bike, and a side benefit was that you didn’t get hassled to “Madame, come look inside my shop please” or by cyclo drivers. However, it was a little nerve-wracking with the motorcycles, other bicyclists, pedestrians and dusty, rutted roads to look out for. Hard to window shop this way.

Since Hoi An has become synonymous with tailors, our first stop was at Yaly’s just in case we wanted to get something made. It is the thing to do in Hoi An, after all.
I convinced my husband that he really should get a new summer sport coat....we found a light silver gray silk/cashmere blend fabric that we liked. Well, then you may as we get slacks to match...so it ended up being a suit. They had a sheet showing fixed prices for these items. He had a very nice woman helping him...Flower was her name.

Then, it was my turn. I wandered around looking at the fabric, but nothing hit me. I got paired with Gloria, who I didn’t really care for. While I was looking through pictures of dresses, she seemed very impatient and jiggled her leg, etc. I finally decided on a dress based on a picture I had brought with me...a simple “out to dinner” dress with short cap sleeves, rounded neck, and a gathered skirt at the waist...I wanted a cumberland type belt but was told they could only do a tie self belt....really??? I had first found a silk blend fabric and was told it would be a certain price....then, I liked another one better...white background with turquoise and sapphire blue thin floral print...but that was all silk in their most expensive category. Suddenly, the price jumped a lot....I balked and asked if they couldn’t do better....she checked and it had to go up $5 more...such is my bargaining skills. But, what the heck, where else can I get a dress made to fit me. So, we committed and agreed to come back at 1:30 that afternoon for our first fitting.

By now, it was uncomfortably hot. We rode further into town and bought the ticket that lets you tour various historical building. We went into a Cantonese Assembly house and viewed their altars and other decorative elements. Went to see the Japanese covered bridge which was covered with tourists. Ate lunch at “the Tom Tom Club”, sitting outside on a narrow balcony overlooking the street...thank God for ceiling fans. G loved Hoi An’s traditional cau loi, thinly sliced pork, veggies, and broth...and I had a fantastic Mango cooler.

After lunch, we toured Tan Ky, an old Chinese merchant’s shop along the river that’s been in their family for 7 generations. Lots of beautifully carved wood, an open “sky well” courtyard garden, and in the back is where the goods were unloaded from ships, and where the furniture would be hauled up to the second floor during floods. Marked on the wall were several lines showing where past flood waters had reached....the one from 1964 just about touched the ceiling, but last year’s flood was almost as high.

Time for our first fitting and I was amazed at how the items were virtually completed. When I tried my dress on, my first reaction was “This makes me look fat”...not exactly the look I was striving for. They had to take in the sides of the bodice and bring up the hem....and I thought a solid blue or turquoise tie belt would look better, so they agreed to make one. G’s suit needed some adjustments as well, and we were told to come back the next day at 2pm.

We didn’t do much additional shopping...I did like the hanging colorful paper lanterns, but they folded up too large for me to want to bring them back. By now, we were tired of the hot, dusty streets and went back for a refreshing swim in the pool. I highly recommend staying at the Life Resort because of this pool...you’ll need it.

Had dinner at the excellent “Mango Rooms” restaurant, probably the best in town, where everything has mango in it somehow. We ordered items that were asterisked as being their specialties: Bruschetta with mango salsa, Scent of Green Papaya salad, Red Snapper “Phish”, Exotic Dawn (? can’t read my writing) which was prawns wrapped with beef; and Bananarama desert. All excellent and the decor was charming. Right after we got our entrees, the power went off in the whole city for about 10 minutes. Luckily, we had brought two flashlights, and loaned one to our waitress so they could get their battery operated lights out.

We had taken a cyclo ride there and back from dinner and it was so lovely. Warm without being hot, no hassles, no dusty road...could enjoy the pretty traditional Vietnamese & Chinese architecture that Hoi An in known for, once you look up from the incessant storefronts.

The following morning was our cooking class with the acclaimed Red Bridge Cooking School. We walked into town to meet the 16 other classmates at the Hai Cafe at 8:15am. We split into three groups for our market tour, and unfortunately, we got the least personable guide. The tour itself was not very informative...she hardly told us anything, and what she did, she just said to the few people near her. However, it gave us a chance to explore the market without being hassled and to take photos at will. That was invaluable. I walked through the meat section with blinders on, as well as the poultry section, although mostly the ducks, chickens are still alive and in those bamboo cages....I’m better with fruits, vegetables and fish.

Mostly, people didn’t seem to mind us being there or try to get us to buy something since we were with a guide. However, one pretty woman kept gesturing for me to sit on a low plastic seat next to her for a picture.....I shook my head ‘no’ but she kept smiling and waving me over. So, the minute I sat down she chummily linked her arm around mine in a death grip, smiling to G “One dollar...One dollar”. So, he coughed up a dollar and I was released. Sucker!

Following this sensory overload, we boarded small wooden boats for the 20 minute trip up the river to the restaurant & cooking school. It was a lovely ride, past interesting homes, fishermen, including one guy wearing his motorcycle helmet with his cycle laying down next to him on the bank, huge drying nets that they use for night fishing with lights, and women rowing their boats until we pulled up to the red lacquer boat dock announcing the restaurant/cooking school. It was set in lovely park-like grounds with a good breeze to keep things cooler. The school was set in an open-air thatched building with bamboo shades on one side to keep out the sun. In the back, was a row of cooking stations and in the front, class-room style seats. The “show” was presided over by a laconic chef with a very dry sense of humor. He would demonstrate something quickly, send us to our stations without the recipes, and then tell us what to do.

First, we made fresh rice paper rolls with shrimp....all we did was assemble pre-cut stuff and roll them up. We ate them right away.

Second, he showed us how to make crispy Hoi An pancake with shrimp, herbs, bean sprouts and a peanut sauce. Again, ingredients were precut and we just poured in some batter for the pancake, fried and stuffed it, and rolled it in rice paper and ate it right away. Pretty good, but I don’t know why they don’t skip the rice paper step.

Third, we actually made rice paper ourselves. Batter had sat for 7 hours, and we poured some over white cloth stretched over a pot of boiling water...swirled it around, and lifted it off...voila! Kinda fun, but this is something I’m never going to do.

Then, we made a papaya seafood salad with vietnamese herbs.

Best thing was next: Vietnamese Eggplant in Clay Pot. We made this and they took it to rest.

Then, he demonstrated how to cut a cucumber in a fan shape and make a rose out of a tomato (we had done that in Hanoi), at which we pretty much failed at everything. However, in our defense, they gave us the worst steak type knives with a rocky handle. You couldn’t cut anything finely with those.

Following this, we retired to the restaurant area for lunch. They served us our Seafood Salad in a cut out pineapple boat, that scrumptious eggplant in clay pot casserole, and a whole steamed fish with rice, followed by fresh fruit. We were so full we could hardly eat anything. Fun talking with other students and the boat took us back to the market area where we got back by 1pm. The cost for this was $25 a person, which was very reasonable. It was a fun experience, but not what I’d call a true cooking lesson.

We had our follow-up fitting at 2pm and thought we’d walk around a little before then. This was a bad idea because when we finally got to the fitting, I was drenched. And, you don’t really want to try on a nice silk dress in that condition. Actually, it was embarrassing because literally, my skin is glistening with sweat, my blouse is soaked....and the Vietnamese women in their long ao-dais are cool as cucumbers....how do they do it? Luckily, they gave me a cold washcloth which helped.

I like my dress, but I don’t love it. No one’s fault but my own. G’s suit pants are still too long, so we’re told to come back in a half hour. Guess we gotta go back and eat ice cream at the Cargo Club again. This time, the pants fit right, and we take our tailoring experiment back to the hotel in the extreme afternoon heat. Jump in the pool and decide not to go out for dinner since we’re still full from cooking school and have to pack and leave early the next morning. Room service pizza and Tiger Beer from the minibar fits the bill.

Overall, we enjoyed Hoi An, but I think I expected it to be more charming. We didn’t have the time or stamina to see more of the historical buildings included in the ticket, which might have been worthwhile. And, we didn’t go across to the ocean beach nearby, which we would’ve done if we didn’t take the cooking class. I think 2 rather than 3 nights would have been better here, unless you’re going to have clothes made.

Next: Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta