I remember when I had my hair washed in a salon in Northern Vietnam, I tried to tip the lady who performed the service. It took several minutes for the other ladies in the shop to explain to her what it was for. I don't think our guide quite knew what to do either.

There's actually a lot of change in Cambridge due to the constant upheaval of high tech companies. Plus, this tremendously reduces our real estate tax bill.

The difference between now and ten years ago in Hanoi is interesting. Especially from someone who lives in Needham where nothing has changed for fifty years.

Bob-I was thinking of using pre approved VOA. Could you be more specific about what was inefficient about doing it this way, (ie length of line, or too much time getting through the paper work and getting it stamped)?

voa---you come down a stairway and off to the left is the VOA counter---marked visa as i remember.... people are pushing and there is no organization to whose papers are taken first...once they take your papers, they send you around the exterior of their office to the payment window...

your passport and papers move down a line of officials to one woman at the end who takes them in no special order and then takes your $$... timeframe 30 min.... no one was in a hurry... all Democratic gov't workers....

i forgot to report the most amusing thing to happen thus far:

when the plane was almost ready to pull back at bkk, a monk and a woman entered---they were k's seatmates. all of the seats behind us to the back of the plane were held by older women who had been on a pilgrimage to thailand.... they spoke very loudly--yelling really. The monk was much younger than all of them... he was their darling... he pranced around, keeping K standing, waiting for him to take his seat.... finally the plane started to move and he finally sat down--K too... he ignored my request for him to sit down..

he tried to expand all over that row... he hung his monk bag from the back of the seat in front of him... he practically yanked k's fodor's guide out of her hands so he could look at it... he just handed it back to her with no comment, after looking at it.. he kept trying to push her arm off the arm rest... she would not yield an inch... he waved things around outside of his own space.. K had to duck a couple of times... he picked his teeth and food flew everywhere around him... he ate his salad and cake and took the main meal home with him.... he was completely animated with arms flailing... the woman would not raise her table for landing... she had 2 drinks..other food and other stuff... the attendent was mad...

i had to hide my face laughing... you had to be there..

dinner was great: 1/2 c of white--very good... a draft tiger.. 2 filets, medium rare with a mixed fresh veggie... a prosecco and sorbet dessert for K and a tiramisu for me: 1,120,000 dn... very good.... checked out the shops along this short street afterwards.... there are several nice bars/restaurants along this street too... the cathedral is nicely lit at night...

Bob- Last year we ate at Mediterraneo in Hue and met the italian expat owner (who owns the place in Hanoi too). Good food. They have a wood burning pizza oven and make their own pasta. Try it if you go to Hue.
Love the story about the monk. :-)

Glad your trip is going well! The monk incident on the plane is hilarious! Poor K!

Looking forward to more installments from the road!

Still following along. It sounds like Hanoi has changed a lot since we were there.

Hanoi hasn't changed much since we were there...

Isn't Thang Long Gallery great? The piece we bought was quite large (and heavy, a bear to hang) but I admire it almost every day in our bedroom.

We saw a fab picture in the same gallery and regret not buying it.
Nice little lunch spot called little Hanoi right by the lake.

will look for little hanoi... we can bring the pic to you in bkk nicky... there was one i saw with a hold sign on it with muffin's name..

trying to weigh our interest in oils vs. lacquer paintings---ANY THOUGHTS ANYONE???????????? we have seen pictures in both mediums which we like very much...

kathie---the change is not positive for the tourist, except there is more choice...

Bob,
I read your "monk" posting to my husband--who is Buddhist. His comment was that the monk was not acting very appropriate. It is a precept that you don't take what hasn't been given. K's book was not "given". Monks are not supposed to eat after noon--unless they have special dispensation--which perhaps he did. But this also depends upon the type of Buddhism he practices. I am surprised the airlines sat him next to K--a woman. Typically they put them in a seat next to men because they are not supposed to touch women. With that said...my husband also added that the monk might have been Vietnamese and not of the Theravada tradition found in Thailand.

I did see the monk and the women with him board the plane. I also noticed the large group of LOUD Vietnamese women--and was wondering who they were. Interesting that they were on a pilgrimage! In the classes I teach in Vietnam --the students are very quiet---until they get into groups. WOW--the volume increases substantially! I mentioned to my husband this fact on the airplane that day! Quiet in small groups--but loud and very social in large groups!!! Interesting cultural bit of trivia.

Loved your story about the monk too.....Karen should have touched him just to get back at him! Sorry you didn't like
Green Tangerine's menu....it was one of my favorite meals in Viet Nam!

I didn't know the Normans made art in specific sizes.

I loved Green Tangerine as well and we ate there twice. Perhaps Bob & Karen will make it back there.

I am angling for the green Tang. There are so many good places. It is hard to choose. Had lunch at Koto over near the temple of Lit. Very good food and I liked the idea that it is a vocational type school.

gail---very interesting... my first comment to K was about the touching... she said she was not giving way on the arm rest, and they did touch plenty... i think he liked it...

stand-by for my most recent taxi rip-off attempt...

Bob, the painting we bought was lacquer...

Bob, we bought a fabulous lacquer at the shop in the art museum. It is one of the nicest things we have. We bring most of our art to one of DC's most highly regarded framers. He doesn't usually comment on the pieces but he could not stop raving about this one. After he framed it but before we picked it up, he put it on display in his gallery. We also bought a gorgeous embroidery piece at the same shop, very different than anything we saw at a gallery or on the street stores.
Whatever you buy, I am sure you will love it when you get home.