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Great story in words and photos. Soooo glad your Diwali was every thing you hoped it would be, Sartoric!!!! I recall the initial Fodors post when considering the itinerary for this, your third trip to "Incredible India" and you planned partially with India's Diwali date in mind (after some let-down with the Sri Lankan version).
I'm not surprised you're enjoying your driver! Why? Because he is from Himachal Pradesh! In case he hasn't told you, I will: drivers from that state are considered top notch because it is said, if you can maneuver in the mountain roads there, you can can manage any where in India! (Our fav driver ever in India--on another Indian Panorama assisted trip including Dharamsala/McLo and Shimla--was from HP as well.) Will write more in a bit to answer question about New Delhi small guest house/B and B convenient for airport. (I have a wrist fracture, on the "writing" side hand/forearm, so even a few sentences take way more time and energy than usual. Bummer.) It's one recommended by both Inquest and me, on that same initial planning thread. Chhoti Haveli. I think you'd love it; a perfect place to relax for an afternoon/evening before next day 's flight and long travel day--which is what I did. |
Oh, sartoric, what an amazing experience you had for Diwali! Loving this! You really have a wonderful way of connecting with people in your trips. What a special experience this was!
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My hotel booking strategy for this trip was to choose a mid range heritage property and book the best room in the house, it didn’t work in Bikaner.
Jaswant Bhawan is a heritage haveli with great reviews. Their king superior rooms however, are in a brand new wing. We went from the visual treat of Radhika Haveli to four blank white walls. Oh well, at least the rain shower in the bathroom would be good for a hair wash. Wrong. Someone blew a fuse and there would be no running hot water. A bucket was the best they could do. The drive to get here was about four hours, and we arrived in Bikaner expecting to visit Junagarh fort...but, it was closed for the day after Diwali. Go figure !Instead we had a decent lunch at Gallops restaurant, paneer tikka, veg seekh kebab, veg stuffed kulcha and cold beer. Karni Mata (aka the rat temple) was really something else. I’d ummed and ahhed about visiting this temple. Not particularly fond of rats, not terrified either, with the fort closed, I thought, well, we’re here, why not ? It was dirty, smelly, filled with thousands of rats, many of them dead or dying....just icky, that’s why not. Driver R came in with us so he could pray and show us around. He obtained some foot coverings for us to wear, which were envied by many other western tourists. People we met later said they’d binned their socks, and I can understand why, walking around in ratshit is not cool. We’ve done it, once is enough. The Jain temple Bhandasar is far more pleasant, lovely carvings, many of them painted, and a genial priest to explain things. There’s a great view of the city from the platform outside where we were chatting with another Australian couple when a large firecracker exploded on the ground two meters below. M has ear problems at the best of times, now he has a constant ringing. Bikaner wasn’t anywhere near as successful as Mandawa, the saving grace perhaps was meeting a group of eight on tour from the UK. I love the English sense of humour and we laughed over a few beers and a decent thali for dinner. Tomorrow we see the Junagarh fort before heading to our desert camel camp for a night with no electricity or running water ! |
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On the way to Bikaner https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48f040c0a.jpeg View from Jain temple https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...367a2d42a.jpeg Ratties https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f195afce2.jpeg More ratties https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...404c6e000.jpeg Detail from Jain temple |
Hmm... I’ll pass on the Rat temple! Not my favorite creature.
Are you staying at Gemar Singh’s desert camp? We did a 2-hour camel walk through the desert with him and thought it would be interesting to stay there overnight. Theoretically, of course! |
Yes it was progol. What a nice guy, wish we had planned two nights there !
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Hello @Sartric, I am Mary From India and I m glad that you enjoying your trip to India
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Junagarh fort in Bikaner was never conquered, a rare thing. Built in the 16th century, it displays all the wealth and grand architectural features of the time. After the surprise closure yesterday (we weren’t the only ones), today saw a massive scrum of people jostling for tickets at the 10 am opening time. A kind American man we had previously met was ahead in the queue and bought us tickets...but no audio guide. Wandering, we saw many beautiful rooms filled with coloured glass work, intricate painted details, handsome carving, and had no idea about their relevance. It didn’t matter, the fort was impressive, and relatively easy to navigate. There were also many rooms showcasing the various instruments of death used in medieval warfare, a three meter gun used to kill tigers, a complete Dehavilland airplane and displays of period furniture.
Not sad about leaving Bikaner, we set off for our desert camp near Osiyan, about a four hour drive. R has been great about finding lunch spots and today was no different. It was called Red Rock resort, had delicious food, cold beer and several Indian families also breaking their journey. We had veg fried rice, dal mahkani and paneer stuffed paratha, plus cold beer. Several selfies (theirs, not ours) with Indian tourists later, it was time to hit the road. Hacra desert experience is the home of Gemar Singh, his wife and two boys. We met Gemar on the main road (how did they do this before mobile phones) and transferred our luggage to his Jeep for a 20 minutes drive through sandy tracks to his home. Here are four round huts, each built with brick walls, a conical thatched roof and rammed earth floor. There is a western style shared bathroom, but no running water. You fill the cistern from a bucket to flush the loo. I think they will have water connected one day, all the fittings are in place, like taps and a hand basin, it just hasn’t happened yet. Our camels (and turbanned cameleers) arrived about 4pm to take us for a sunset ride. M is the master of exaggeration and has told Gemar I’m an excellent horse person (intermediate at best), so I lead our expedition, and am given free reins. We have ridden camels twice before in nanny state Australia where they’re all roped together and lead by an experienced rider. Oh my, if this camel decides to do a runner for freedom, I’m going too. We watched a surreal sunset from the top of a dune while the camels waited patiently a few hundred meters below, gee that climb up was tough. Worth it though. Back at camp we shared a simple but delicious meal of vegetable fry, dal, rice and millet flatbread with a couple of other guests. The stars in the night sky were spectacular, no light pollution out here. It was quiet too, no train (or other vehicle) horns, and no call to prayer at 5.00 am. Slept well. Tomorrow we head for Ajmer, close to, but not quite Pushkar. |
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Lovely! And you look like quite the horsewoman...I mean, camel woman!
When we visited 6 years ago, there was a son who was about 12, and very sweet but shy. And I remember the bucket flush! We were there for lunch and a ride, but didn't get to see that surreal sunset. |
Thanks for confirming my belief that I don't want to go to Bikaner!
Have done the bucket flush and shower, with the hot water bucket delivered in the morning. Works OK, but not, of course, something I would want on a regular basis. |
Originally Posted by thursdaysd
(Post 16824483)
Thanks for confirming my belief that I don't want to go to Bikaner!
Have done the bucket flush and shower, with the hot water bucket delivered in the morning. Works OK, but not, of course, something I would want on a regular basis. |
No, they were separate. New paragraph.....
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Due to (ahem) circumstances, I have had one shower since leaving Delhi eight days ago...getting pretty good at the bucket wash though.
Yep, thursdayd, I won’t be returning to Bikaner, nor recommending it to others. We live, we learn. |
I'm very much enjoying your report, though there are points at which I say "better her than me." You've gone to some of these places so I don't have to...
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Sartoric--Loving reading about your experiences. Showers are still kind of considered a luxury in smaller towns. Large cities, Mumbai, Delhi hotels usually have showers as do many people's homes.
But once you are in quaint little towns, villages etc. a shower in the bathroom will not be seen. Bucket baths are most common in most of India. In cold weather, it is common to see a hot water bucket brought in by the hotel staff for your bath. I experienced this long ago while visiting the hill station of Simla, where temperatures were hovering around 50s, thus cold. So, the hot bucket of water was the bath time luxury. Enjoy your trip. Hope you have been able to find some amazing, little souvenirs to bring back. Rajastan is full of very creative embroidery work. Take care, be safe. |
The bucket shower is similar to a "Navy" shower. Or a water conservation shower, for that matter. Get wet. Soap up. Rinse off. Did that in the RV, when I was associated with one, and we didn't have hook ups.
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“Bucket shower” encompasses several definitions.The “bucket showers” I took in tents on safari in Africa were like a standard shower, with a lever to control the flow of water. On request, the large container filled with hot water was hoisted in place with a pulley and delivered to the shower head via a pipe.
https://www.tripsavvy.com/taking-a-b...safari-1454117 The other type “bucket shower” which I think Sartoric and Thursdaysd may refer to is: pour bucket of water over yourself. Lather. Rinse by pouring another bucket of water over yourself! |
Love all the newest photos too, esplly of people in camel cart!
Rat temple... ewwww. Shivers! They look small. You could’ve taken the overnight train from Jaipur to the Punjab and had a similar companion in the sleeping compartment. I did that trip in reverse with “Mickey Mouse” for company. Talk about “authentic”! I admire your “warts and all” honesty about your experiences, and learn from all of it! Thank you. A slight diversion for what I hope is useful information: Wise you plan to arrive in Delhi the day before your flights. As Progol said, why risk it—especially prior to your homeward bound trip? Iirc from your previous India trip, you know what can go wrong with flights, and this time you won’t have tour company advocacy/backup. Chhoti Haveli https://www.chhotihaveli.com/ a perfect place if you want to gently savor your last night in India. Roomy but cozy. It was a great spot to mentally and emotionally regroup at the end of a trip. Cost is about $60 (USD) which is very reasonable for an excellent b and b in New Delhi. Surinder’s driver will get you to IGIA with time to spare. Alternatively, you could spend the night at one of the numerous chain hotels (eg lemon tree) right by the airport. The best of them might cost twice as much as Chhoti but you would have the convenience of even closer proximity and possibly a quick shuttle to the airport. Don’t forget to add the hotel tax to the prices you see on booking.com etc. Itis 18-28% additional on hotels but I don’t think on homestays.(?) As you said, Rome2Rio times are inaccurate, at least on this trip. Better to use google maps’“leave” or “arrive by” option. You’llget a realistic range—which could be something like “4hours to 7 hours” depending! Otherwise, multiply what you see on R2R by 1.5 x. On your day leaving Jaipur to arrive for domestic flt at Delhi airport... you’ll need to leave at 5am st the latest from Jaipur. Maybe you’ll arrive in 4 hours foot to door, but maybe not. Even with the modern highway, a few cows out for a morning stroll could cause a traffic jam! Continued wishes for great adventures on this trip! |
Sorry , meant “door to door” above
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Loved the photo of you riding into the sunset . Watched by the Bikaneri men after sorting all their problems :) True wild west style and a camel for a change...
Enjoying your ' on the road reporting'. |
pour bucket of water over yourself. Lather. Rinse by pouring another bucket of water over yourself! Rome2Rio times are inaccurate, at least on this trip |
yes, thank you Sartorial for your warts and all TR. Not sure that one shower in 8 days would suit me but your photos are lovely.
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Dear all,
rather than hijack your TR, Sartoric, i have started a new thread about the trip I am thinking about making early next year. Here is the link: https://www.fodors.com/community/asi.../#post16825325 I would be most grateful for your input. |
Thanks for comments people, just to clarify my meaning of “bucket shower” is one bucket, one dipper and one bar of soap...don’t plunge your hand straight into the bucket to test the temperature, it can be very hot - ouch. Use dipper to dampen self, use soap to lather self, use dipper again to rinse self. It’s sometimes better than one of those shower heads that send out five fine streams in disparate directions. Some places provide a small plastic stool to crouch on, which makes it easier.
Thanks again CaliNurse, I’ve decided to book an early morning flight to Delhi to avoid the five hour drive, and will book Choti Haveli for last night in India. We rose early in the desert for sunrise photos, (easy when the 4.5 hour time difference from home is taken into account) wandered the nearby area, practiced cow whispering, spotted some lovely birds and startled a few peacocks. Breakfast was simple and delicious, cracked wheat porridge with banana slices and pomegranate seeds plus paratha and lots of chai. We had time to chat with Gemar a dedicated environmentalist, knowledgeable about his hood. Sad to say farewell, I would like to spend more time here. Ajmer is only 13 kilometres from the more oft visited Pushkar. The journey here took the best part of six hours. First we stopped for minor car repairs, where the all male clientele stared unrelentingly at me...they have no shame, even when you stare right back at em. The drive is a bit boring, through endless flat scrubby farming land. We stopped for a late lunch in Nagaur, delicious veg seekh kebab, dal fry and veg fried rice with naan, plus cold beer. Our hotel in Ajmer is Badnor House a heritage property with only five rooms. Greeted by an ancient gatekeeper and an unsmiling 20 something, we’re shown to a comfortable room with a giant bed, a modern bathroom and a lovely terrace set in pretty gardens. I went to find reception with passports in hand, was handed a phone by surly 20 something. I spoke with the owner who was away, he apologised for not being here, relayed messages to the surly 20 something (named Paroo) who spoke no English. The owner Sanjay on a poor connection suggested various options for dinner nearby and mentioned he ran walking tours of the city....we were the only guests. R offered to take us out for dinner, but we were too knackered to consider going out, had snacks brought from home in the room. Tomorrow we will visit Pushkar, deftly avoid a common scam and enjoy “special apple juice” (beer) at a rooftop restaurant in this alcohol free town. |
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Lunch https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83b2645cf.jpeg The traffic is awful https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e2aeb01a.jpeg Hacra desert camp huts https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f75d41eb.jpeg Cow whisperer |
The day didn’t start well, despite that gorgeous modern bathroom, there’s no hot water ! Sheesh, after phone calls and text messages with the owner, we yet again end up with a bucket. Sigh.
Pushkar is gearing up for the annual camel fair which attracts over 400,000 people and starts in a few days time. It is also the home of one of the few Hindu temples dedicated to Brahma, and is an important pilgrimage site. Even though it’s only 13 km between the cities, it takes about 40 minutes to wind up and then down the Aravalli mountain range which lies between and is a feature of both cities. Driver R dropped us off near the mela (fair grounds) and pointed us in the direction of the Brahma temple with strict instructions not to buy any flowers for offerings. There are masses of people and colourful market stalls in the laneways leading to the temple, plus the usual motorbike, tractor, cow obstacles to dodge. We didn’t buy any flowers, a nice man gave us some ! After leaving shoes and locking the camera in a box, we joined an absolute crush of people to ascend the stairs to the temple. I really didn’t need my feet on the ground, and loved the way older ladies would just grab me by both arms and push me forward. I copped a slap in the face, probably not intentional, and gave my flowers to the priest, eager to escape. There is nothing architecturally interesting about this temple. Whew, but it was not over yet...a “student” insisted on accompanying us to the ghats (no cost, no cost) where we recited a puja (prayer), received a blessing for our families from a man in white, then were asked to promise funding a meal for the poor. No promises were made, luckily, as these meals started at 2000 rupees. I gave them 100 rupees and we found our own way out of the mess. We met up with driver R, and he delivered us to the other side of the lake to the market/bazaar. Here we were invited by young women carrying a probably drugged child to buy milk powder, a scam we first saw in Siem Reap many years ago. Sheesh. Eventually we wound up (four floors up) at Nirvana, a cafe where the food was very good and the beer came in ceramic mugs, noted as apple juice on the bill. We enjoyed the view of the lake and ordered far too much food, but ate it all. We shared a thali consisting of cumin rice, dal, vegetable bhuji, chapatis and raita, plus separate dishes of spinach paneer, potato masala and garlic naan. Loads of western tourists in Pushkar, a stark contrast to Ajmer where we saw none. Back in Ajmer by late afternoon we wandered the area of Badnor house where some lovely examples of stately homes lay in varying conditions. We finally got to meet Sanjay the owner, whose grandfather was the equivalent of a baron in 1940s Ajmer. Indeed there were stunning life sized oil paintings of both his grandfather and great grandfather in the drawing room. Against our better judgement we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner and had two amazing thali while seated in a cushioned alcove scattered with rose petals. It’s Ambrosia restaurant above the Ambassador hotel. No alcohol available, delicious food and cheap as chips. Stuffed to the gills, the one kilometre walk home did us good and we crashed like kittens. Tomorrow we take an early morning sightseeing/street food tour of Ajmer with Sanjay and have lunch in a bedroom enroute to Bundi ! |
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Lunch of champions https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d4b2bfaf.jpeg Pretty Pushkar https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d015d904d.jpeg Pretty crowded Pushkar |
Thanks for the info on Pushkar. I once visited a Kali temple in Kolkata during durga puja - similar crush. Pushkar is another place I have chosen not to visit.
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Sartoric - wonderful report...you’ve returned to my favorite country. Love your pictures and descriptions. You are braver than me going into the Rat Temple. Ewww...
Calinurse - still laughing at your Mickey Mouse experience, especially as I recall the rats scurrying around hundreds of people sleeping outside a train station covered from head to toe with blankets. We couldn’t understand the need for the blankets until we saw rats scourying around. I couldn’t get on the train fast enough and worried the entire trip whether any rats hitched a ride along with us. |
Just came across your delightful 'warts (read rats)and all' thread this morning ... really enjoying it. Ive only been to India for one three week trip so far but fell in love ... time to go back.
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Great trip report. Thanks!
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Thursdayd, think I might have another no go place for you coming up soon.
Thanks Dgunbug and Marisa, and MsLizzy, go back, it gets better each visit. Running hot water and a workable shower at last, yay ! Off we go at 8am in an electric tuk tuk for our tour with Sanjay @ 750 rupees per person. We started at the Circuit House an imposing mansion (no public access) overlooking Anasagar lake, which is man made but nevertheless beautiful. In past times the tax collector stayed here, nowadays it is a base for visiting dignitaries. Sanjay said it’s crumbling inside. The view though is wondrous, and was good to see so many people out exercising. From here we head through manic traffic to the start of the lanes leading to Sharif Dargah a Sufi saints tomb, said to be the most important Sufi shrine on the subcontinent. First we’re asked if we’re okay with crowds...oh oh. Wiki says 125,000 people a day visit this tomb. We got there relatively early, maybe only 15,000 others were present. The road leading to it (largely pedestrianised, but watch out for motorcycles) is crammed with all manner of shops, every shop has a hotel above it, and poor little donkeys grown under huge loads up and down side alleys. The tomb has intricate carvings reminiscent of Humayuns tomb in New Delhi. What could be a pretty garden area is instead pretty barren. Sanjay hired a tricycle rickshaw to take us back downhill to the tuk tuk...guess who got the tiny wooden jump seat directly behind the driver ? On to Ram Namkeen (established 1963) for street food snacks. First up spinach pakora, then kachori (a type of dough ball filled with lentils, crushed a bit and topped with tamarind chutney), then twisted ribbons of fried dough with a spicy coriander chutney, and finally, freshly cooked jalebi (I had one for you @ileen). We stopped near the museum, closed on Monday, for lassi with saffron, yum. Next up is the beautiful red sandstone Jain temple, open only to Jains, however for 10 rupees you can visit the museum which houses a golden universe/city model and explains the Jain philosophy. The tour was great, Sanjay offered lots of insights into the past and present Ajmer. Well worth the money. Back to Badnor House, no breakfast required, we packed up, paid the bill (no credit cards accepted, grrr, luckily I had some Aussie dollars), and hit the road for Bundi. The drive is not so long today, but through pretty boring countryside. We pull up at a typical lunch spot with lots of trucks parked outside. By now R knows we enjoy a beer with lunch, so goes off to ask if beer is available while we plonk down at an outside table. The restaurant is not licensed, but they will get beer for us as long as we go inside. Not only inside, but down two flights of stairs to a windowless room containing two beds and a shelf full of backpacks. We think it’s the staff room. They pull out and dust off a plastic table and two chairs. We order, beer arrives, food arrives, our waiter climbs into bed and has a nap ! Again, the food was delicious, although not quite what we ordered. I guess the chickpeas got lost in translation, we giggled a lot about the bedroom lunch. Bundi is a small town with a huge palace and fort. Hotel Bundi Haveli upgrade us to a suite...woo hoo, a huge room about 7 meters by 7 meters with two comfy bay window seats looking up to the towering fort/palace complex. The shower works too ! We wander the town in the late afternoon sun, stop for a few photos of the lake (unfortunately filled with plastic rubbish) and enjoy chatting with some other tourists. Dinner is at Lakeview restaurant across the road from our hotel. Run by a nice young couple, the food takes a while (cooked fresh) and we peek in to the basic kitchen. It’s all very tasty, and we don’t have to hide the beer ! Tomorrow we will brave the monkey thugs on the way to Taragarh fort. |
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Great grandfather liked having his portrait painted. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...381b2b756.jpeg Monumental. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ef4ad01f.jpeg Napping the waiter. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a026068a.jpeg Ajmer from the Circuit House. |
Hi Sartoric! Still "with you" in spirit, enjoying your words and photos and in some cases, thinking "Better she than me."
Oh dear, I hope the next "no go" zone wasnt Amritsar! (I know the report trails behind the posted itinerary.) If you havent yet seen it, there's a recent Fodors post on the city. Since your trip to Patiala is imminent, try to read up on the famous Maharajah of the area. Here's one perhaps exaggerated description https://www.scoopwhoop.com/Bhupinder...ja/#.riw17dd1z |
A slight digression from your trip report, Sartoric--hoping you don't mind. Dgunbug, so good to "see"you again! I'd just been thinking of you, after re-reading your South India report. It 's part of the preparation for my trip there in less than two months, taking note of the village and temple just outside Madurai which you recommended: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thirup...Murugan_temple
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Sartoric - waiting for more! This is all such good stuff and the pictures are great. Loved your incident in the cellar with the waiter sleeping on his bed...just priceless.<br /><br />Calinurse - I’ve been away from the Asian forum for a bit as we’ve been back to Europe during the last few years. Time to return though. Hope my report helps you. Hated to be so negative about the Kerala area but the rest was outstanding.
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CaliNurse, yes it was Amritsar, glad we went, but wouldn’t go back in a hurry. Tomorrow will be in Patiala (real time, not TR time - I’m several days behind, drama at home eating into my free time) so thanks for the link of debauched Maharajah. I read the Lax_esq report in Delhi airport before our flight to Amritsar, got excited. He’s right in that the area around the Golden Temple is pristine, step outside though....
dgunbug, thanks, the waiter did eventually put down his phone, cover his head with blankets and even started snoring. Priceless, yes. Ahh Bundi, a compact and colourful town, home to 90,000 people, surrounded by mountains and grounded by Nawal Sagar a square man made lake. There’s more free ranging piggies here than I’ve ever seen, plus the usual cows, dogs, a few cats and some lovely parrots. I admire the way all these different species peacefully coexist. The Bundi Palace and Taragarh fort (14th century) tower over the town and are largely unrestored. Admission to both is 500 rupees pp. The palace is a jumble of rooms, some with exquisite paintings, some derelict and damaged by vandals. A couple of young men will unlock doors to the best preserved rooms and elsewhere show you roosting bats through a gap in the top of a door. The climb to the fort is via a loose stone pathway, where the local monkeys watch you from the trees. A guide coming the other way screamed at us to beware, suggested we carry a big stick, avoid eye contact and that M should lead the way. Stick found, we forged ahead, looking strictly at our feet...the monkeys were no problem. I was more concerned about slipping on the at times steep slope. The views from the top were spectacular and well worth the climb. Back in town by around lunchtime we stumbled across Nas Diwas, a luxury haveli and enjoyed snacks of vegetable fritters, a beer, the view of the fort and their colourful wall art. Wandering is fun in Bundi, many homes are painted blue, laneways twist and turn into narrow corridors, and there’s always an opening to orient yourself to the mountains, so no fear of getting lost. Later we would meet up with Ramesh, carefully stroll the markets (motorcycles galore), buy a bottle of Sula (Indian) sauvignon blanc and enjoy street food of freshly cooked pakoras doused in a spicy coriander chutney. Dinner was at a restaurant recommended by R, main street, on the lake, can’t remember name. We had a great meal of mixed vegetable bhuji, tadka dal, paneer masala and naan bread, plus we drank some of that wine. Tomorrow we return to the Pink City - Jaipur, and some big city chaos. |
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The palace https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...012655990.jpeg Towering over town https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01a25871d.jpeg Exquisite detail https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1aa4fcd22.jpeg Every picture tells a story https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ebe96f18.jpeg Stepwell at the fort https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34aed1e1e.jpeg Veggie pakora with coriander chutney..so good for 20 rupees. |
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