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Karen and Blip go to India with Intrepid
Thanks everyone for the helpful tips you gave before my trip to India. I had an amazing trip - saw incredible sights, met some wonderful new friends, and had fantastic, almost surreal experiences - from disco dancing on Bollywood night to spiritual consultation with a renowned swami to... but wait I'm getting ahead of myself.
Although I usually travel with my daughter or sister, I ended up with no travel partner for this trip, so decided to go with a tour group (and a little stuffed sheep named Blip). I chose Intrepid for it's small-group size and it's philosophy of "real-life experiences." It proved to be a wise choice. I left Baltimore on a blistery December afternoon and flew British Air to Heathrow, then on to Delhi after a rather extended layover caused by snow in London. I arrived, finally, at Delhi's new airport four hours late, around 5:30 a.m., and looked in vain for my Intrepid transfer. I walked back and forth searching for my name on a sign. By my fourth pass, everyone was looking at me with sympathy and I decided to find a phone and call Intrepid. (There's a bank of phones along a wall and a guy dials for you and then collects the money when you hang up - easy as can be.) Turns out my ride was there after all, but had gone to sit down thinking I wouldn't be through arrivals so quickly. It did take a bit of time - slow lines - but I hadn't checked any luggage so I made it through expeditiously. I got to the hotel around 6:30 a.m. and went right to bed. We stayed at the Grand President in Delhi. It was nothing fancy but reasonably clean. I slept for 5 hours and headed downstairs to meet the group. There were eight of us, 7 women and 1 man - five Aussies, a Kiwi, a Canadian, and me - the American (plus one sheep). Our tour guide was 34-year-old Tej, a native Rajastani, a fellow Libra, and a real charmer whose love of India and enthusiasm for life were contagious. We set off for Old Delhi via the metro and got our first up-close-and-personal taste of India's population problem. It reminded me of Washington, DC's metro on the 4th of July after the fireworks, but it wasn't a holiday. It was just India. Because people were so tightly packed together, there were separate cars for women only, which Tej recommended. So he and John lined up with the men, while the rest of us lined up with the women. We emerged on the streets of Old Delhi - a fascinating scene. People everywhere bustling by, rickshaws, tuk-tuks, garbage in the street, a mix of smells, horns honking constantly, motorbikes. I've been to Bangkok and Cairo and Moscow and Seoul and New York. Delhi is a world unto itself. It's intense - and it's fascinating. I was mesmerized and wanted to stop and stare and take it all in. But Tej was moving and I didn't dare pause too long for fear of getting left behind! We visited Jama Masjid mosque, where several kids wanted their picture taken with me or another member of our group. I thought i was getting too old for that, but I guess blonde hair and fair skin are still a novelty even if you're past 50. :-) Then we hopped a small local bus. It, too, was unbelievably crowded. It looked full before we got on, but somehow we squeezed in. We headed for a Sikh temple, where we removed our shoes, donned orange bandanas, washed our hands and feet, and joined the other worshippers in a large hall. Afterwards we visited the kitchen area where volunteers provide free meals for anyone (any caste, any religion) who comes. We helped with making the chapati - rolled the dough and flipped the bread. Then after another bus and metro we arrived back at the hotel. Dinner that evening was a short walk down the street. I had some chicken dish, which was delicious. I was a little worried about the food before I left, but I needn't have been - I loved nearly everything I tried. Next day we got up early to catch the train for Jaipur.... more to come. |
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Oh, it's fun to read about your trip! Both of us were first-timers to India this year.
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Great that you and Blip loved it, Karen. I was a bit concerned that his fur might make him to hot.
Glad you loved Intrepid and your guide. I'm thinking of a doing a small group tour for the future 2012 (to Gujurat--wanna come?). Yes, it is fun and a bit puzzling when loads of people want your pic--especially the school kids. You feel like a a celebrity and wonder what you've done to deserve such attention! Looking forward to the next segment... |
The photos are terrific-- they cause smiling or laughing with great memories. Ah, Incredible India!
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Thanks, Cali! Yes, the memories make me smile, too.
I meant to mention that the metro, despite the crowds, was unbelievably orderly. The people actually got in lines to board the trains rather than just crowding in like they do here at home. It really surprised me. Of course, once on board no one could even move because we were packed in like sardines. |
Looking forward to reading the rest of your report, Karen! My DH has stated he can't get excited about India so I'm considering going solo, perhaps with a group like Intrepid. Which of their trips did you go on?
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Wow! Great start and great pictures. Can't wait for more. Bniemand - don't give up on your husband. Mine said he would never go and now we are ready to book our flights for next November. While he sings to me nightly, ending all songs in "don't take me to India", he is also excited about going.
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althom1122: You were quite fearful about a sneak snake attack. Looks like that didn't happen (at least, I hope not). Love your photos!
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fantastic...i can't wait to see and read more...
bob |
:-) NO SNAKE ATTACKS. But... there is an interesting story, which I'll relay in the course of the report.
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Remind me to tell you sometime about a nine-foot king snake and a Ford 150 pickup.
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P.S. A few things I forgot to mention about Day 1. After the Sikh temple, we went to the spice market. We went up some steep stairs to a 2nd floor, open-air area. I saw a guy stretched out on what looked somewhat like a bed, but he was completely covered except for his feet. I thought he was dead. Tej later told me he was only sleeping. The spice market was an interesting place. The air was so thick with spices and pepper smells that it was really hard to breathe. Everyone was coughing and coughing (not just us but the locals, too). We walked past three men sitting on the ground, one of whom was lathered up and receiving a shave. I asked if I could take their picture and they smiled big and nodded yes (you'll see it in my photos). Right after that, we saw a man urinating with his back to us. He then turned toward us, zipped his pants, said hello, and walked past. We then went back down the stairs to the ground level and stopped at a nut stand to stock up on snacks for our train ride the next day. Also forgot to mention that the only man in our group, John, was pick-pocketed on the metro and lost his wallet and credit cards that first day. Tej loaned him money throughout the trip - it wasn't until the last day that he got a replacement card. Intrepid took good care of him.
Also that day, at dinner, I informed Tej and the others about my snake phobia. Tej said it was possible we'd see snake charmers at some of the tourist sites, but he'd keep his eyes peeled for me and steer me away. He reassured me it wouldn't be a problem. The others (by this time we'd already bonded) agreed they'd look after me. JAIPUR After a sleep that was all too short, we left the hotel via two taxis at 5:15 for a 6:05 train to Jaipur. The station was hectic - with tuk-tuks, taxis, and people everywhere. Quite a few people were sleeping on the cement floor under blankets inside the station. The train left on time and the ride was fine - there were three reasonably comfortable seats on each side and breakfast was included (tea or coffee plus an omelet or vegetarian wrap). Even the bathroom wasn't too bad, although it was Indian style (squat). It was about 4 1/2 hours to Jaipur, where a van took us to our hotel, the Bissau Palace. http://bissaupalace.com/facilities.htm It was really cool. Like something out of the Arabian nights. After a brief rest, we ate lunch at the hotel on a patio overlooking the pool (a bit cool for swimming), then headed out in our van for Amber Palace, just a few miles outside of town. I was wowed. In fact, I kept saying "wow, wow, wow". The sun shown on the fort walls making them truly amber-colored. With the scalloped walls and arches and intricate mosaics, I found myself imagining flying carpets swooping all around. Lot of kids (and even a few adults) asked for pictures with us. The views of the countryside from that mountain-top perch were beautiful. Enroute back to the hotel, we had two shopping stops - at a pottery place and a jewelry store. I bought a small vase for a friend at the former, nothing at the latter. I know some people don't like shopping stops by tour groups, but I didn't mind them. There was no real pressure to buy and they weren't overly long. Plus, given that there were 7 women in our group, the shopping was a fun part of the trip. That evening was an included dinner, and Tej took us to another hotel/palace. The dinner was a buffet and quite nice. I had some chicken tikka and spinach panneer (or something like that?), plus samples of some other things. We went around the table and shared our highlight of the day. For me it was Amber Palace. Tej said, as a tour guide, his highlight was seeing my face light up every time I said "wow". Afterwards there was a small puppet show outside - we were the only guests. Basically there were four puppets in the background that never moved and then they'd announce, here's the king with his horse. And a king puppet and a horse puppet would drop down onto the stage and the horse and king would move. So after about the fourth different puppet, the announcer said, "And here's the snake charmer..." Of course, everyone looked at me and down dropped this puppet with a flute and a basket. And out came a little puppet cobra that went up and down and then back and forth across the stage. Everyone got quite a laugh out of it and congratulated me on being so brave. At the end, the mother-daughter pair from Australia (Lidia ad Kathy) bought a pair of puppets, and so did I. (No snake puppets, though.) Then we headed back for a good night's sleep. More Jaipur later... |
Oh, one more thing on day 1 in Jaipur. When we left the puppet show, we had to take tuk-tuks back to our hotel. Tej said we could 2 tuk-tuks or we could squeeze into one rather than send some of the women separately. We were game and somehow all seven of us crowded into one tuk-tuk (John had skipped the puppet show and gone back early, and one of the women was sick and had stayed back at the hotel). We laughed all the way home. It suddenly seemed like we were teenagers again away at summer camp. It was so much fun. When we got back at the hotel, we all sat around the lounge area, ordered drinks, and talked. I introduced Blip - he was quite a hit.
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And here are the Jaipur, day 1, photos to go with this latest installment.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p233838108 |
more great pics....the guy with the red turban was in one of my pics too i think...
was it samode palace where you had dinner?? i remember they have a small puppet show in the courtyard there.... now i am excited again about the trip i am working on for next fall to india... keep it coming |
Great stuff, love the detail. Pleased that Intrepid worked out for you - although surprised by the shopping stops.
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What fabulous pictures. Can't wait to read and see more.
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Fabulous pics and a great report.
Your enthusiasm comes thru...you are having a great time in India. Keep it coming. |
All those bodies covered with blankets in the train station! The colors in India are so wonderful.
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Yes, the small puppet show was in the courtyard, so that might well have been it, Bob.
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Wishing everyone happy holidays! I'll be in Colorado for Christmas and will finish when I return.
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Thanks. Same to you, Blip and Karen!
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Hope you had a wonderful Christmas. Looking forward to reading more of your report soon!
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I'm beginning to think I DO want to go to India. Your pix are great.
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Namaste, Fodor's friends. I'm back from a wonderful Christmas in Colorado... with thoughts of India still on my mind. Picking up where I left off:
Jaipur, day 2 We slept in today and, after a modest breakfast buffet at the hotel, headed out for a walk through town. There were few other tourists in sight, and we quickly became an attention-getter, with many of the locals staring, smiling, and (especially the kids) wanting their pictures taken. We strolled through a vegetable market that was in full swing. The colors are what I remember most - red and green peppers, white cauliflower, yellow bananas, and various other fruit and vegetables, served up by women in saris just as vividly colored. We saw a man carrying a couple of live chickens by the feet. They were flapping their wings and squawking - but likely unaware of their impending demise and de-feathering. Two young girls ran up to see if I'd take their picture - and and the result brought a round of giggles. It was a glorious blue-sky morning, and Jaipur was bustling. Commerce was in full swing, and bicycles, motorbikes, cycle-rickshaws, tuk-tuks, goats, cows, men pushing carts, women carrying bundles on their heads, and pedestrians all vied for space in the street. It was a constantly changing scene, each second different from the previous. I was once again enthralled with India. It is a total sensory experience. We had lunch at a hotel in the downtown area (forget the name). I had parhma saad (mixed vegetables), which soon had my mouth on fired - in a good way. As we walked, we had a little interaction with people on occasion. One guy commented to a friend as we passed: "Very good height" (in response to Robin, who is indeed quite tall, about 6 feet). Another asked where we were from and when Lidia told him we were from Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and America, he responded: "Ah, mixed vegetables" (which may have instigated my lunch order!). After lunch, Tej gave us the choice of the observatory or the city palace. In hindsight, I wish I'd picked the city palace (or managed to squeeze in both rather than squandering some time later that afternoon shopping!), but John suggested the observatory, and the rest of us agreed to give it a try. It's definitely worthwhile. Built by the king in the 18th Century, it boasts some amazing "technology" - an accurate sundial and various other astronomical tools. We had a local tour guide give us the inside scoop, and after quite a few pictures, we were sated. As we were walking to the site, one of the women in our group quietly told me to head across the street and the others soon surrounded me and directed me onward. Turns out there were a couple of snake charmers across from the observatory, and they'd "saved" me from seeing them! I peeked over from across the street and saw the men and baskets but quickly turned away. Sydney said she did see a cobra come out of one of them. Panic attack averted! Afterwards, we did some major shopping - after all, that evening was Bollywood night! I bought an Indian blouse, several of the women bought scarves, John tried on a turban, we picked up some calendars, and before you know it, the afternoon had faded and it was time to head back to the hotel to get ready for the evening. Not, however, before I stopped at a small stand for a lassi served in a clay cup. Yum! A lassi is a yogurt-like drink that can be ordered sweet or salty, plain or fruit-flavored (usually banana or mango). It was my favorite treat in India! At that stand, they only had sweet, plain ones, but banana ultimately became my drink of choice. We met in the lobby, everyone decked out, for Bollywood night. Our van driver took us the theater, which was really beautiful. We had the best time. The theater was packed with locals (we were the only non-Indians I saw). I thought the movie was awesome. It was a little schlocky, but it was beautifully filmed. Every scene was like a vivi painting, vaguely reminiscent of Edward Hopper. It was in Hindi, but oddly enough, every 30 seconds or so, the actors would say a couple of sentences of Engish - just enough so we could follow the plot. I loved it! During intermission, Sydney and I bought some popcorn for 25 rupees (although there was a sign saying "no eatables" in the theater, everyone seemed to be ignoring it, so we did, too). After the movie, we went across the street and up to the 5th floor of a building to a disco club - complete with 70s and 80s American music, including Michael Jackson and Abba. It was a hoot! We ordered drinks and food, and all ended up out on the disco floor dancing the night away. Then we hopped a tuk-tuk (again we crowded into one) and laughed all the way back to the hotel. Another successful day in incredible India. Tomorrow: Agra and the Taj Mahal. |
Sorry about all the typos - I didn't proof-read.
Here are the photos that go with this installment: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p918797071 |
yes next time head for the palace... its quite lovely
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is blip liking india?
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Blip LOVED India! (But he got really mad at one point - you'll find out soon!)
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Enjoying your report and your photos!
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Thanks, Kathie.
(Oops, I know Abba was a Swedish group, not American!) And Cali - I had overlooked your earlier comment about Gujurat in 2012! I'll keep that in mind. I just asked Tej via email to give me a recommendation for a return trip to India! I'll let you know what he suggests. |
Kathie
Planning a few days in India in April. Did I overlook the link to Tej? If not, can you give it to me. He sounds like what I am looking for. Thanks. Shrink |
OOPS!!!!!
Sent above to wrong person...sorry Kathie. Althom please forgive and if you have the link, would appreciate it. Shrink |
No problem. My name is actually Karen, so Kathie is close!
Tej is a guide with Intrepid so he doesn't have a link. I don't know if he does private tours, but I'll ask him and let you know. |
I'll bet Tej will suggest Kerala!
I love how your new friends protectively surrounded and hussled you away from the snakes! Arent you glad you revealed your fear to them? What movie did you see --did i miss its title? Sounds like you had LOADS of fun!!!!! There's something about India memories that makes me smile more broadly than those from equally wonderful places. Is it the contrasts? the humor? Where else can you see a road sign directed at motorcyclists in the craziest traffic in the world, which says, "Hell or Helmet--choice is yours" |
Shrink, I'll bet the photo galleries have whet your appetite for India, even for your 5 day trip. Think of this trip as an appetizer and see if you like it enough to spend more time one day, when you have that luxury.
A big Texan "yee-haw" to you! |
The movie was Guzaarish - it was wonderful. Here's the trailer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9QiS6nw1DM |
Great report and pictures. I am thoroughly enjoying it. Movie looked very interesting. Hope Blip enjoyed it too!
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Thank you, Karen.
Now you're back home, one way to get you back in the spirit of India is to rent some good movies--both those produced in "Bollywood" and those with India theme. Interesting what you'll notice, now that you've been. One example of that is restaurant kitchen scene in "Slumdog Millionaire" where the brother is gluing the tops back on water bottles!! Another is the family in "The Namesake" standing together in awe and appreciation and love, visiting Taj Mahal. Makes me shed a tear, every time. There's a thread here with recommendations, and a veerrryyy long one on Indiamike. |
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