Impressions from our three week trip to India February 2013
 

First….a special moment. When we arrived in New Delhi airport, we were tired from the long flight, but pleased that getting through the arrival routine was nothing special. But then, we got to the last uniformed counter (probably customs) and we stopped. What were we supposed to do there? I looked at the man and he gave me the head waggle. Dogster!!! He often wrote about it. Yes, we were in India and it had been Dogster who set the stage. We smiled and went out into India.

Rather than a trip report reviewing the places, palaces, temples, forts, monuments visited, my report is of my impressions of our experience. The tourist sites we saw were the ones everyone sees on their first trip to Rajasthan. Many trip reports have discussed them. But going to India first means selecting a style of travel that works for you. Group tour or independent travel is the first major decision. For us, independent was a requirement. We are in our 70’s and wanted to sleep later in the mornings and not be required to follow a hourly schedule. We also did not want to visit the rug looming exhibition, the stone sculpture showroom, the pashima weaving demonstration. We are not shoppers. Group trips can be excellent and you will not miss any major tourist attraction and often get to know people who will become lifelong friends. Independent travel planned by a local operator can have the “completeness” of group travel but will allow the tourists to make changes on an hourly or daily basis.
We used Legends & Palaces which is owned by Mr. V.P. Singh and is based in New Delhi. He has been doing this long enough to know the nuances of trip planning for Western clients. We wanted/needed to go in the “Oberois Bubble”. My husband had no interest in exploring the culture of India…Italy is for him. But, he is a good guy and knew that this was important to me. India is so overwhelming that I knew we would need quiet, reliable, comfortable hotels. We also wanted to travel at a slower pace. Few one nighters and driving between cities kept to 4 or 5 hours a day. It may not be necessary to go to these very expensive hotels but they were very nice and there were no unpleasant surprises.

Mr. Singh made the hotel reservations based on my requests, arranged a car and driver, tour guides, suggested routings. All of his arrangements were fine. We liked some guides better than others, but that is often personality. All were competent and anxious for us to have a good experience. Our driver was excellent. He went beyond to make sure that we were comfortable and enjoying our experience. He was with us all but two days of our trip so he was very important. It is my impression that having Mr. Singh make our arrangements meant that it cost us less than if we make them ourselves. There are too many parts (car and driver, guides) which I could not price. But, it was much less than if we had taken a group tour with the well-known upper level international tour companies, or museum or college tour operators which used the same hotels. Independent tours from these operators were much, much more. I usually make our own travel arrangements but this trip was beyond me.

We used our points for the flights. We flew British Air from NYC to London, had a 3 hours layover, and then on to New Delhi. We flew Business going and Business and First (for the last leg) returning. I admire people who can go long haul coach, but that time is over for us. The return was almost 24 hours door to door.

We stayed at the Oberois Gurgaon near the New Delhi airport our last night. (Which I thought was too expensive for a one nighter getting there after 6pm. Wrong!) We had to get up at 4am for our 7am flight. Amazingly enough, the service and accommodation at the hotel were so good we actually slept very well that night. Maybe the 2 glasses of wine helped.

What else helped was that Mr. Singh arranged that we were met at every airport by someone who escorted us to our car. We were even met in hotel lobbies to escort us to our car (at the end of the hotel lobby) when we did not have a guide since we were being driven to an airport. We also had an Indian cellphone supplied by Mr. Singh so we could call our escorts. In short, no worries. Also, using a porter at the airports was really important. Indian airports and airlines have special quirks that can be confusing to a first timer. When Jet Airlines charged us for an extra bag which had been used before as a carryon, it was our porter who showed us where to go to pay the extra fee when we did not have enough rupees and the counter would not take a credit card.

India is amazing! It is the most colorful place we have been. Color everywhere! The women dress in the most beautiful saris. Many younger men dress Western style, but most women wear color! Older men wear unbelievable costumes. Everywhere you look, it is fascinating. The posture of the people is so erect. The faces are striking. I took endless photos of the people. Usually I take photos of things….in India, people.
For years I was afraid to go to India because the poverty would be too upsetting. But having been to Cambodia, Kenya, Tanzania, etc. the poverty here was not the most overwhelming factor. (We did not visit, though we saw shanty towns.) Less people were begging than we have seen elsewhere. Our driver and guide absolutely forbid us from giving except to a temple. The people live a different lifestyle than we do, but they do live. Water, sewerage, housing, garbage are big problems. But there is food everywhere. Fruit and vegetable markets everywhere. Food being cooked everywhere with lots of customers. We were often told about charity kitchens. Most amazing, in Delhi someone was celebrating something and provided free food from a very upscale hotel all day. Chefs in white uniforms and high hats were cooking on the street all day at the hotel next to the Imperial Hotel. At the end of the day, the discarded paper plates and plastic utensils were removed from the streets

Personal space. Not in India. Whether in a city or even in the countryside we did not have the “invisible” distance around us we have had elsewhere. The traffic is really as has been so often described. Cars, all kinds of wheeled vehicles, people, cows, dogs, goats, camels, a few elephants, cars, going in all directions at once with horns blaring. I was bumped more often in three weeks in India than in my whole life all together. Varanasi was much more crowded than NYC at anytime including New Year’s Eve. Plus, Indian people gather. Wherever you look, people, usually men more often than women, are gathered together, sitting on the ground, discussing. Who knows what they can be discussing so often, but there they are. Anything draws a group. When our driver had a hard time getting a receipt from the tolltaker, next thing we knew, there were 15 men gathered around offering opinions…and this was a tollbooth on a highway. When we stopped to take a picture of the woman with oxen circling to bring up water we went back across the road to get money for her. Immediately, ten other women appeared out of nowhere (flat fields there), who wanted money, candy, anything from us. They were friendly, smiling…we were the entertainment.

Even in the usual Rajasthan tourist circuit we followed, especially in Varainasi and the countryside, women wanted to hold my hand. I was “different” and they seemed to enjoy making the contact. “I shook the hand of the foreigner.” It was usually accompanied by a big smile and sense of pride. People were hospitable. When I had to wait in the street in Varanasi while my husband and the guide went to the toilet, I felt uncomfortable. So I stood near a group of women having tea at a stall. They immediately offered me tea, food, a seat, etc. Their English was very limited but far better than my Hindi. In Lodi Garden in Delhi I stopped to look at the group of beautiful people having a picnic. The senior man immediately invited me to join them and eat. They were from Afghanistan only moved to Delhi a few months before.

(End of first installment)

Thanks for sharing your impressions! Welcome back.

How timely. Just starting to consider 2 months in India next year. I really appreciate the style of your report as I have a good sense of the itinerary but your observations are so interesting.

This is great - I am enjoying your impressions. Keep going...

Thanks for the report--I'll be reading along. I too am starting to plan a trip for October or November and have been considering various options--will definitely look into the possibility of an independent tour with Legends and Palaces.

Why you need an Indian travel agent.

We got on an Air India plane in Varanasi to go to Agra. The plane was then going on to Khajuraho. But they took us all to Khajuraho and said get off the plane. No apparent reason.

There we were about 25 Agra passengers. We were much worse off than if they had cancelled the Agra flight. It was then 4pm. We were 500 kilometers from Agra. If they flew us to Delhi there is now good toll road to Agra. They said the next open seat would be two days. They provided a bus (no toilet on it) to Agra. Take it or leave it.

Our wonderful Mr. Singh called us even before we got off the plane.
He arranged a car and excellent driver. We took two young Japanese women with us so they did not have to take the bus.

More than 120 kilometers of the road had been removed for a new road. But they never built the new road.
So we drove on bare ground that had been highly eroded with gullys, deep holes, etc. and so much dust that the driver had to stop to clear the headlights.
We often had to crawl along. Remember, this is during the night. How many times have you read to never be driven at night in India? Good advice.

We got to our hotel at 3am after 10 hours.
The bus got to center Agra at 5:30 and then the tired passengers had to get to their hotels.

We are grateful to our agent.

I am someone with no intention of going to India but your report is certainly fascinating. Thanks for sharing!

Your report is wonderful! We are just starting to think about a trip to India, so this is very helpful.

Welcome back - I have been looking forward to this immensely. Especially interested in Mr. Elainee's impressions. Italy is wonderful, but so...tame after India.

I'm very much enjoying your report, Elainee, Thanks for writing, I look forward to more.

Thanks for sharing, Elainee. This is wonderful. India is a country that's high on my list although I've hesitated more than once, due in part to some of the things you've described. Your report's giving me a fascinating insight into the land and its people. I look forward to reading more.

Nice to read your impressions. Triplanner - don't hesitate...India is fascinating.

Elainee,
I'm also enjoying reading about your experience, having just returned a few weeks ago. The colors and textures - wow!

Triplanner - I agree with dgunbug - India is an incredible experience that is very doable. We traveled similarly to Elainee, having hired an agent (TGS) who arranged car, driver, guides and we were met by agency reps whenever we arrived or left a place -- we felt very protected throughout our travels.

As we are also the "independent traveler" types, this was the perfect way to maintain independence while still having the advantages of group travel.

Nice to share your impressions.Your report is awesome

Dgunbug and Progol, thanks for the encouragement. Originally, I thought about visiting Sri Lanka this month as a prelude to tackling India, but that didn't work out as planned. I cannot say that I'm 100% ready to take the leap, but I'll at least put it on my list of considerations for my next trip in 2014 (my planning for November 2013 is well underway).

The Varanasi Decision

Many tourists to the Rajasthan circuit do not go to Varanasi. It is out of the triangle, it is dirty, it is crowded with poor people, has a more limited hotel selection. We are so very glad we went to Varanasi. I would recommend it as a must-see. All the negative reasons are true. We heard lots of tales of tourist cars not being able to get close to their hotel and having to walk thru rather unsavory areas followed by luggage bearers. Hotels that were 2* at best. Our hotel was a long ride from the Ganges. But, go to Varanasi. It is an out of this world experience.

You are immediately transported back to the Middle Ages with peasants and others making their pilgrimage to a religious shrine. Think the pilgrimage route in Spain, the cathedrals in France. Well, in Varanasi, that is today. While we were there it was also the year of the once in twelve years Maha Kumbh Mela festival in Allehabad which was less than 100km away. In addition, to the faithful going to the Ganges add the (estimated) 400,000 pilgrims going to Allehabad and then coming here. The crowds were truly unbelievable. I was concerned that if I fell over, it would be the end of me. Not that the crowds were menacing or unruly, just that there were so many people in a small area. We would see bands of pilgrims with their stuff (bedding, clothes, food?) on their heads following their leaders. Our guide would tell us where these people were from based on their dress. They were from all over India and neighboring countries. And these were happy people. It was not only their ultimate religious experience, it was the adventure of their lifetime. So down to the Ganges they went, to bathe, to pray, to participate in the evening aarti. Of course, vendors lined the route to provide food, religious artifacts, all kinds of stuff, plus, souvenirs. People would patiently wait in line for many hours to get into a temple. Where all these people, especially the women, found toilets or whatever, is beyond me. People would gather together, sitting down, almost anywhere, including around the police hut in the center of the main traffic crossroads. Just sitting there. Add to all this, the animals, cows of course, donkeys, chickens all just wandering around eating the garbage, or lying down in the center of it all.

Families would join together to perform the Ganges bathing ritual. Of course, men in one group, women in another. They would dunk right next to a body covered in bright cloth getting its last immersion before cremation. And then there would be in the tourists in their boats and these tourists could be Hindus as well as Western tourists. Boats terribly overloaded. Some people were there for their hygiene or to wash clothes. Whatever. Impossible to take enough photos. The cremations were not upsetting to watch as we did not really see anything except a fire. But I will never again see a crude bamboo ladder without thinking that it is to hold a body for cremation. I had even seen one (with body) on the roof of a car.

A few notes about tourist issues in Varanasi. We went to the main Dasvamedha Ghat for the evening aarti ceremony. Being on a boat for the aarti ceremony sounds good but you will get attacked by hordes of mosquitos. You cannot believe how many 10’s of thousands of people were there. The whole area was jammed including all the way up the many steps. Crosscheck was able to get priority seating thru her guide. Our guide got us seats on a balcony right above the action by giving a small donation. We left before the ceremony ended because we were concerned about getting thru the crush when everyone left. Your car is parked quite a distance from the ghat, so it is a long walk and while there are lights a flashlight would have been good.

Hotel. We stayed at the Taj Nadesar Palace for two nights which has only 10 rooms and is a distance from the river. It is like being part of a PBS Downton Abbey episode. Our suite was larger than our NYC apartment and certainly came with better service. Lovely grounds, a building for the Maharaja’s leopards (now probably stuffed). We were taken around the grounds in a horsedrawn carriage with our “butleress” standing behind with an umbrella over us. All this, for our Ganges experience. What a contrast! People have loved staying on the river in the center of the action. We liked retreating to a quiet green place.

But like all our Taj and Oberois hotels, we stayed on the grounds and did not explore the neighborhood. Not that we were afraid to explore, it was more that the grounds were so large it was a long walk to get out of them and it was so pleasant in the hotel garden. I guess they would have driven us out if we asked. They might have even carried us. But what we saw of the neighborhoods did not look that interesting. Something about our trip or us resulted in our being hotel stayers. We certainly walk around in other countries, just not this trip. Not sure why. To me, the shops seemed either tourist stuff or stuff I did not want or need. There were few sidewalks and the streets were frightening with the chaotic traffic and assorted animals. I am sure others have had a different experience. Plus, India for the most part, does not have grocery stores. It has lots of food, vegetable, fruit, spice, grain carts and stalls, but we did not see any ”grocery”stores beyond snack shops. Not the kind of places you wander around in looking at the stuff. We were told by our “lady guide” that nobody goes to stores to shop for food. The food is brought to your home on a daily basis by the fruit, vegetable, meat, etc. vendor. Plus, people prefer fresh buffalo milk brought in from the countryside by the milk man. We saw lots of bicycles, motorbikes, trucks carrying metal milk cans into the city every day.

Elainee,
Wonderful description of your visit to Varanasi! I, too, found it to be a highlight of our recent trip. Interesting, though, as we were there just after the Kumb Mela started in January, and we didn't have anywhere near the crowds you describe, though we certainly saw groups of pilgrims arriving and in boats.

We were pretty lucky when we saw the Aarti ceremony -- we arrived by boat, and our guide gave us the option to remain in the boat or sit on the ghat, which we opted to do. We had no difficulty finding seating close in, and when it was about over, our guide brought us back to our boat and brought us back to our b&b. Door to door service! There was a nice crowd-- perhaps a few hundred people- but nowhere near the size of crowd you describe.

Paule

I am so enjoying your trip report. I have contacted Mr. Singh and feel very glad we are working with him having read what you have written so far. We are in the beginning stages of planning our first trip to India so will be happy to learn of any suggestions you have.

Wonderful report!

fantastic reporting... my type of travel---observe life today and marvel..

Elainee,

We just returned from India as well and we were in Varanasi as well. You did not describe all the naked Holy Men (Sadhus) down by the banks of the river. I probably had some of the best photos I have ever taken, right out of National Geographic. The funniest were the naked Holy Men reading the paper in the morning. My friends and family could not believe the pictures.

Missed those guys and the naked men covered in white. But I did see some lovely ladies who lost their clothes taking the Ganges dip. It was quite a scene!
Could you email me the Holy Men catching up on the news??
[email protected]

I'm reliving our trip through your observations. We too did not stay on the river in Varanasi. We were happy to observe the action on the river, and then retire to our quiet, modern hotel away from the river.

If it’s Tuesday, it must be Agra

How fast do you want to travel? How much do you want to see? What is important to you?

These are really important questions on any trip. But in India where roads are sometimes not good, and hot spots are incredibly crowded, it is good to rethink priorities.
Example…my DH wanted to go to the Starbucks in Delhi. Sounds easy. It is in Connaugh Place and we were near there. Not so easy. The traffic was almost at a standstill (and that includes all the extra lanes), the parking a joke, and the line for Starbucks was five thick around the block. This Starbucks is a mecca for upscale Delhi teens who are also happy just to have their photo taken (on cellphone, of course) in front of the store. Interesting to see, but no way to get a coffee to go.

Better example….my DD and her family were in Rajasthan several years ago for a Christmas holiday. When we planned our trip she strongly suggested that we not overnight at Chattrasagar between Jaipur and Jodphur. She said the roads were terrible, a very long drive and it seemed out of the way. And there was nothing special there. This tented camp sounded good to me so we included it. It was very much a highlight of our trip. Even tho we have stayed at tented camps in our African safaris and very nice camps they were, this camp set a new standard for beauty, service, special experience. The two men who run it are beyond charming and helpful. We got there about 2pm, had a lovely lunch overlooking the lake, relaxed for a short time and then took the included two hour bird walk. I LOVE bird walks. They provided excellent binoculars for everyone, had a spotting scope (carried by a native dress local who really knew his birds). When my DH did not feel well they called for a jeep to bring him back to the camp. After the great bird walk we all had drinks (included) around pit fires in front of the lake. Then dinner, with included wine, where they came to your table with serving dishes. No menu but the food was delicious, fresh, local, interesting especially the goat stew. Tasted just like veal. Many guests refused the goat but they missed something really good. When we returned to our tent after dinner before they served the tea, they brought tea to our tent a few minutes later.

Why didn’t my DD like this place. They arrived after dark. No bird walk for them. Wanted to have dinner immediately (the children were tired and hungry). They certainly did not want to wait until 8pm for dinner and eat goat. The cook made pasta for the kids before the group dinner. They went to bed as soon as possible and were surprised the next morning how beautiful the place was. They left immediately after an early breakfast. Not a great experience. Seems to me they were traveling too fast. And they are not the only ones who have crowded too much into a trip.

It all depends on your preferences. Dogster wanted to stay in one place, sit at a tea stall and view the local scene (and maybe get a shave). An Indian family wrote a trip report in which they described and loved getting up at the crack of dawn, touring in detail every possible temple site. Both styles work. But, factor in the fatigue you will experience and plan a trip that works for you.

Still following along and enjoying immensely...

Wonderful trip report! Will you be posting a link to your photos?

Great TR. Don't think I could have coped so well with the crowds in Varanasi! I stayed on the river and loved it, but I didn't need a retreat as it wasn't as crowded.

Elainee, My wife and I spent 17 days in India in 2006. It was our first stop on our round the world trip. We, too, used VP Singh as our Agent and Guide. At that time the Company was VP and his wife. I am happy to see that today his business is thriving and he is receiving many good reviews.
Quite frankly, he made India come alive for my wife and myself. He introduced us to the people, the small villages and the culture, and not just the larger cities. He is just the BEST, and we recommend him unqualifiedly.
Originally I was skeptical about visiting India but, in retrospect, it was one of the highlights of the trip and I often think about the country and its people.

Elainee, loving your trip report!!! Time to dream of another trip to India (this will be #5)
Thanks , this is a wonderful read. And thanks to you other Fodies who have posted about India!!

We all shop in India

I don’t like to shop. I hate to bargain. Too much choice confuses me. I especially don’t want a salesperson hovering over me. Sitting on a couch with a table and tea service in front of me, makes me look for the nearest exit. So, shopping in India is not for me. But, everyone, including me, has to shop in India.

What did I want to buy in India? Cotton tunics for my daily wear, one nice traditional picture for framing, a few “somethings” for my grandkids, and a small metal elephant. I got everything but the elephant.
Cotton tunics…Go to the nearest Anokhi. I love Anokhi. I would buy stock in Anokhi. Maybe I should open one in NYC. I expressed my desire to do this shopping and Mr. Singh provided me with a lady guide to take me shopping. I don’t know which Anoki she took me to. It was in a middle class neighborhood with a shopping strip. The Anokhi was upstairs and had two floors. It had lots of stuff. A salesclerk found tops in my size and I tried them on to be vetted by my guide. I bought four tops and a few scarves which I wore for the rest of the trip. They are the most comfortable, softest cotton, easy to wear tops ever. I hope they look “normal” in NYC this summer. I went to Anokhi in Jaipur as well. There the shop was in an upscale area with a nice café on the same floor and a very nice restaurant on the next floor. The shop was filled with Western teen girls who seemed to go to a local school. A good selection here as well. Anokhi also sells lovely housegoods, quilts, tablecloths. I liked them as well but concentrated on clothes for me. I bought two sundresses and another top. Lots of Western tourists buy at Anokhi but I also saw their clothes on Indian women as well. By the way, all the tops were less than $20 each. The Anokhi at the City Palace in Udipur was really expensive and a small selection. At our hotels and tourist attractions, I saw lots of tourists wearing Indian tunic tops. FYI…Anokhi and Fabindia have price tags with fixed prices.

I also went to Fabindia in Jodhpur. It was in a strange area with few other non-necessity stores. But it was fine. Got one more top, another dress, a shirt of my DH, a nice vest for our driver, pink soap for the grandkids. The prices at Fabindia were slightly more that Anokhi tho the books say the reverse is true.

I wanted to buy a traditional painting and they are seen everywhere in shops. I bought mine at the Mehrangarh Museum shop in Jodhpur. It was not inexpensive and I hope buying it there gave me some quality control.
In Jodhpur our guide talked me into going into Llji Handicarfts Emporium where they have gorgeous fabrics three floors underground in a firetrap. Sitting on a couch against the far wall in a huge room we are shown one beautiful spread after another. But they were beautiful and made for Etro, Hermes, etc. Plus Richard Gere bought his 185 pashminas there and they just had one left. So I bought 2 bedspreads, (Etro and I forget who else) and a beautiful throw. Funny, when I was telling my brother about these purchases, he had been in the same shop several years ago and was shown the same stuff. Real stuff or good sales pitch??? But after making these purchases, late that night I realized that bedspreads without pillow shams would be a problem. So back we went in the morning and selected material and they delivered the shams the next morning. I carried the bedspreads with me. Probably should have had them shipped. Internal flights in India seriously weigh your luggage. They do charge extra for the slightest overweight. Plus, I got charged for a very small carryon with wheels which they made me send thru. I still like my bedspreads.

The Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace gift shop in Jodpur has the best men’s knit shirts at very reasonabale prices. If you know a guy who wants polo shirts with a Indian (horse) polo logo, here they are. They run small. These shirts are a good excuse to see this amazing hotel. Beyond over the top in every way. Hard to believe it was built in the 20th century. Look at the stuffed tigers and lions in the staircase.

I'm enjoying your shopping!

Was the shop in Jodhpur really underground? Sounds like the one we went to but ours was three rickety stories above ground. Perhaps it sank under the weight of all the goods. But then again our famous patrons were different. Great report.

We went to the same Anokhi as you did in Delhi. I bought two scarves, a shirt and some napkins. Intended to keep only the shirt and give the rest as gifts, but....

I kept the scarf I bought for my daughter-in-law. That is really bad.

The shop in Jodhpur really underground. Kept thinking how we would get out in case of fire. But these guys are very good salespeople.

We officially decided to go to India next year for our winter trip. This report was our tipping point! Thx!

Crosscheck, which Anokhi did you go to in Delhi....sounds like shopping heaven to me!

Elainee, Thank you so much for the great report....I am adding notes from your report to my trip plan. I can hardly wait to go ...only four more weeks.

Elizabeth...great decision.
Cwn..what a good time you will have. Plus swimming weather while we pray for no snow.

Itinerary Rajasthan February 2013

Delhi The Imperial Hotel 4 nights (Fly to Varanasi)
Varanasi Taj Nadesar Palace 2 nights (Fly to Agra…oops, drive from Khajuraho 500km)
Agra Oberois Amar Vilas 2 nights (Drive)
Jaipur Oberois Raj Vilas 2 nights ( Drive)
Nimaj Chattrasagar 1 night (Drive)
Jodhpur Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace 2 nights (Drive)
Deogarh Deogarh Mahal 1 night (Drive)
Devi Garh Devi Darh 2 nights (Drive)
Udaipur Udai Vilas 2 nights (Fly to Delhi)
Delhi Oberois Gurgaon 1 night (Fly home)

All hotels were absolutely lovely with every possible comfort and service except Deogarh. Deogarh, a heritage hotel, gets raves on TripAdvisor but we found it rather Marigold Hotel.
There are lots of steps to go anywhere, especially the lunchroom which was up two flights of stairs, across a long outdoor passage and up a few more steps, and the stairwells are not all well lighted at night. Our room(s) were on different levels. I have no idea why anyone staying a night or two would want 2 sitting rooms, a bedroom, and a lovely terrace room. The sitting rooms which were interior and quite dark were extraneous for us. The terrace was lovely but the Jacuzzi would have fit a small 6 year old and there was no hot water anyway. And no hot water in the bathroom. The hotel tried but not everything worked.

The next day we went to the Jain Temple in Ranakpur. We passed a lovely new hotel complex not far from the temple where we stopped to use the facilities. It seemed very nice and had beautiful kitchen gardens. I took the card but can’t find it. We would much have preferred staying there.

There was a time in our lives when staying in the heritage hotels would have been fun. You never knew quite what you were going to get. Now we wanted to know that everything would work and there would be no unpleasant surprises. Devi Garh is a heritage property but restored magnificently. The NYC Met Museum includes it for an extensive property tour. Yet even there we rejected our first room since it had loft beds and I was concerned that we might fall down the steps next to the bed at night. One level between bed and bath is best for us.

Finally, our trip was excellent. I highly recommend going to India. It was a much easier trip than we expected. I had thought of India as the cities we were going to visit. Since we were driven between cities, we saw so much of rural India. I never expected to see mountains on this trip. We spend most of one day on mountain roads. I saw arid/desert areas, and fertile farms. We passed through many villages. In some villages most of the vehicles were tractors. Often we saw people being transported (some to weddings) in carts pulled by tractors. Not what I expected. Go to India…you will be amazed!

i think there are all levels of heritage hotels... the ones we stayed at were all perfect. i could not stay in a place with no hot water... how about cleaning the dishes??? yuck..

i loved your report..

it makes me want to return to india---TODAY.