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HONG KONG EATING---looking for ideas.... book any ahead of arrival?
I would welcome advice from Cicerone, Rkkwan, and from anyone else who knows the local dining scene. I would like to stick to Chinese food with an emphasis on HK style. We will have 5 dinners.
We will be a party of three and none of us has Chinese language skills. My friends are less adventurous than I am, so third floor dives on back streets of with no English-language menus are, unfortunately, not in the cards for this trip. I have many hours of reading in front of me before I can ask intelligent questions and formulate a list. But I do have some names already and would like opinions on whether or not these are worth seeking out. I would also like to know more about the hidden kitchens (I have Tim's on my preliminary list ) and about any other eating spots that I should book ahead of my arrival. FU SING--Wanchai. Do they offer "regular" dinner dishes in addition to dim sum? I understand that they are less hectic at dinner hours than at lunch. TIM'S KITCHEN--Still great? I would like to have a list of dishes to pre-order. So far I have: Crab claw, beef satay, crystal king prawns, crisp roast baby pigeon. I am afraid the truly exotic is off the list for this trip due to the sensitivities of my dinner companions. HUTONG--Peking Road, TST. Crispy lamb ribs essential? Window table=great harbor view. GUANGDONG BBQ RESTAURANT--How is the food and what is the atmosphere like? MAK'S NOODLES (WELLINGTON STREET, CENTRAL)--Good lunch place? LOAF ON--Sai Kung Wharf--good for a seafood dinner? LUNG KING HEEN (FOUR SEASONS)--What is the approximate cost per person, without exotic celebration dishes? BO INNOVATION--?? PEKING GARDEN--We might like to have one Peking duck dinner...(???) Is one location better than the other(s)? Please feel free to comment on the above places and to add your own. My friends will want a fairly comfortable atmosphere for dinner, but anything goes at lunchtime. Also, how late is dim sum served at lunchtime? Do HK restaurants generally have any sort of dress code? I ask because one of my travel companion favors (gray) tennis shoes/sneakers as footwear. Many thanks! |
Hi EK,
We used Ciccerones rest list and it was very useful. We went to a few of the places on your list. Hutong was very good but not HK ie Cantonese. It is more northern style food much of it very spicy. I liked the lamb but DW thought it was greasy and tough. Window tables get the best view but the view is pretty amazing from the tables farther away. We liked the food at Yun Fu another Aqua Group rest even better but it is underground so no view. We went to Noodle place across from Mak's on Wellington and loved it the room was a little more pleasant but still just tables you may share with locals slurping their noodles down in 5 minutes. We did Peking Duck at Penn's Cantonese place I am sure it cost more but it was best I have ever had and service was impeccable. We did Dim Sum at 2 different Lei Gardens and both were great and very local clientele. Another more upscale relaxed but more expensive place for Dim Sum is Loong Toh Yuen in the new Hullet House Complex another Aqua group place. Tim's form what I understood was a fixed menu and there are some "acquired taste dishes" included that might not appeal to your other diners. If you are in IFC Mall for lunch Lian had some of the best modern Viet/Thai food I have had since Thailand. Our last night at 4 Seasons we did Lung King Heen and were quite disappointed, it just did not live up to 3* standards or prices, maybe try for dim sum. If that is a Michelin 3* they are using a different scale than they do in Europe. HK has so many local places but you need a friend or guide that is local to figure it all out. I notice Bourdain always has a local guide to find all those hidden gems and they order the food for him. Good hunting! |
Oh book dim sum places ahead. We were turned away from several and then started having concierge book for us or go very early or late. There are some good threads on Chowhound to try to figure out more local places.
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SCF: So helpful! Many thanks! I would never have thought to book dim sum ahead of time!
That is disappointing about LKH at the Four Seasons. As you know, although I have not yet responded to your post, I am still deciding upon hotels...if we stayed at 4S my friends would probably be happy eating in the hotel one night instead of following me all over town on a quest for food! Interesting about Hutong---those lamb ribs sounded really good and I've liked the northern food I've had in the past--thought Beijing was a great food city and believe it or not, there is at least one great NE Chinese restaurant here in the NYC area--in Flushing! I wanted to concentrate mostly on HK food but also give my friends some examples of different Chinese cuisines. They have probably never eaten Peking duck, for example! I am going to keep Tim's on the list for now--when I book I can make sure there will be some "non-exotic" things to eat. My friends are really totally,hopelessly squeamish--I am sure they could eat pigeon with no problem, but not sure I would want to even put duck tongues on their table! I have to have a good long look at Cicerone's restaurant threads. I am sure I will be back with many more questions..... Thanks again! |
If you are at the FS you are connected to IFC mall where there are lots of high end eateries of many types both western and Asian cuisines. I'm not talking US foodcourt mall food but some of the best HK has to offer. I ate some of the best croissant in IFC mall better than most in Paris. So your travel companions will be happy. I loved the Lamb at Hutongs but I love pig trotters, tete de veau etc. I found the Cantonese cuisine to be rather bland and it really relies on a lot on the exotic ingredients. Ye Shanghai near Hutong was also one of our favorites and it was a style I preferred to Cantonese. LKH was good food and good view but not near as good a view as you would have from a room on a much higher floor at FS. It just is not better than some of the other choices in town unless Riedel stemware is the the deciding factor. Service was not 3* no refolding of napkins when leaving table etc. Leaving old plates way too long. I know we have discussed foodie stuff on Euro board and Africa board in the past and if I go to someplace due to a 3* rating it better live up to it! You have to book dim sum ahead usually just a day ahead except Sundays book even earlier as that is family day at the houses of dim sum! They are packed and you might want to plan on another day of the week. I would book most places especially at lunch in Central as all the office workers pile out between 12:00 and 1:00 and they always have the inside track on reserved tables. If you go at 1:30 the tables are empty!
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Just my opinion, but I'd forget Hutong. Despite the amazing view, the place was touristy and a gouge, I thought. The lamb was great but other dishes hit and miss.
For Peking duck, try Spring Deer. Like a restaurant out of the '40s (and I don't think they've changed the curtains since then) with florescent lighting, older waiters in white coats, lots of locals at big tables having loads of fun, ducks coming out of the kitchen by the dozens, and only a wee smattering of tourists. Get there early or late as there's no reservations (I believe). Delicious and lively. |
2 recommendations from me
Sang Kee Seafood Restaurant 1/F & 2/F Hip Sang Building 107-117 Hennessy Rd Wanchai Tel 2575 2236, 2575 2239 www.sangkee.com.hk Reservations a must for dinner Lin Heung Tea House G/F, 160-164 Wellington Street Central Tel 2544 4556 Famous for the dim sum in the morning and lunch. Go for dinner for classic Cantonese food. If you're there for dinner try the duck! Crowded throughout the day. |
Hi ekscrunchy! From Cicerone's list we went to Yellow Door by the escalator and although it is mainly szechuan not cantonese we highly recommend it. Also the sister restaurant Kin's Kitchen in Causeway Bay, which is Cantonese.
Pics here.....Yellow Door first then follow the link to "restaurants 1" for Kin's Kitchen http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/2..._in_hong_.html |
OOohh..great food for thought here! Many thanks for the recommendations!
Elizabeth-I loved the photos. Of course we are all used to great photos and words from you! I am afraid the Sichuan at the Yellow Door will be out for my friends. I will consider myself fortunate if I can, indeed, convince them that we need to eat Chinese food every night and there is no way they can tolerate the spices. But who knows, I may strike out on my own on a night or two so will keep it on my radar. I like the looks of Sang Kee Seafood, too! Any special dishes to consider there? Also, KM, when you say reservations are a must, how long in advance would you suggest booking? |
alas, no Yellow Door! But Kin's Kitchen is perfect for your friends - no spicy/lovely flavours/lovely environment!
Off to Africa in 5 days for 2 months!!!! Blog link here http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/africa/ Have a great time in Hong Kong - one of my favourite cities! |
<b>ekscrunchy</b>, I have a list of restaurant recommendations for Hong Kong which is now 40-pages, which I would be happy to e-mail it to you if you want to send me a message at [email protected]. It is broken down by view, no view, area, price and food type/region.
For your other questions: Do not worry about not being able to read or speak Cantonese or any other dialect. You will not have any issue. Even if you hit upon a small place without an English menu you should be able to find someone to help you. (At bakeries, you just point, and you <i>must</i> go to a Hong Kong bakery at some time during your visit if you want the Complete Hong Kong Food Experience.) Other than Petrus which I believe still requires jackets for men, there is no dress code in any restaurant to the best of my recollection. I would not worry too much about it. You can dress up if you want, but if you don’t, you should not really feel or look out of place, unless you are going to expensive hotel restaurants or someplace like Joel Robuchon (and even there no one would say anything or refuse you entry, your friend might just feel a bit out of place). Dim sum is served anytime from about 9 – 5 pm. Most places tend to serve from about 11-3, but you can find a good number of places that serve outside those hours. I agree that for the very popular places, at lunch hour and especially on Sundays or a public holiday, you should make a booking. The drawback is that some of the best places do not take bookings. (Like Maxim’s City Hall.) So, I would just go on the early side or late side. Like 11:45 am. The entire country tends to eat lunch from 12 - 1 pm. (Although on Sunday this get stretched on either side.) So going before Noon or after about 1:30 pm makes a big difference in crowds. Hutong – I actually think this place is worth it. Yes it is touristy. But the food is good and so are the views. (Just like Windows on the World or the Rainbow Room, but not as expensive.) My favourite is the Szechuan chicken in a basket. I agree that you do not need a window table, all the tables really offer a fine view. I always have fun there. Bo Innovation – you would need a reservation here. I am of two minds on this place. It is certainly an experience, but I have not always enjoyed the food. It is not traditional Chinese in any way, and you may indeed end up with moussed duck tongue which it seems may not interest your friends. If your friends are not adventurous, this may not be the best place for them. You may want to try something like Yin Yang on Ship Street in Wan Chai which is more traditional Chinese (and organic), but I believe you have to be a party of 6 to make a reservation, so you may just have to see if she has availability on an evening. Lung King Heen – Again, this is not traditional dim sum, it is what I call fusion dim sum. My Cantonese friends like it because it is not Cantonese dim sum, or at least he serves dishes that are not usually seen on typical menus here. I think it is quite good and different, but then again I am not a huge fan of Cantonese dim sum to begin with. It is very expensive. If you don’t mind spending the money, you may enjoy the experience. For dim sum, I would make a reservation. Mak’s Noodles – absolutely worth a stop when strolling in the Hollywood Road area. I would make this lunch or a snack more than dinner personally. Loaf On - I would not go all the way to Sai Kung for seafood. The Sai Kung area is absolutely gorgeous, and there is lots to see and do, but please do not take the time and trouble to go all the way out there by public transport just to have a seafood meal. If you want to hike/walk in the area, or take a boat trip, then having seafood afterwards is a good adjunct to that. However, there are many good places much closer where you can have a good seafood meal. Very little of the seafood in Sai Kung (or anywhere in Hong Kong) is local, so you are not going to Sai Kung for “fresh off the boat” seafood (and you wouldn’t want it, given our water pollution). It’s also quite expensive, which is the case with a lot of seafood in Hong Kong, but IMO even more so in places like Sai Kung and Lamma (although Lamma is easier to get to and more manageable for a tourist, IMO). If you are going all the way to Sai Kung for a meal, I would go to Restaurant 131, which is French, not Chinese, but fantastic. (It’s also a little harder to get to as it is not in Sai Kung town itself but worth the trouble.) Peking Garden – of the two locations, you would likely find that the Central location is much less crowded at night, but could be packed at lunch. On the other hand, the TST location has harbour views, so it kind of depends on what you want. I agree that Spring Deer is a good place for Peking Duck, as is American Peking restaurant. I also think that the Man Ho restaurant in the JW Marriott has excellent Peking Duck (although it is primarily a Cantonese restaurant); however currently as they just redid the restaurant there is a waiting list for bookings, so call ahead. Tim’s Kitchen – have not been in some years (before it received the star), I don’t hear anything bad about it. I am not sure I would order satay from a Cantonese chef. Beef is not a big part of the Cantonese diet, and satay sauce is not Cantonese in any event. I would go with Cantonese specialties, esp as they do seafood so well. (They steam fish to perfection IMO.) Or pork or chicken, which are the preferred meats here, esp pork. My only problem with crab claw is that it is so much work for so little meat, but the sauce is usually very good with the rice. Fu Sing – have not been. Guangdong BBQ Restaurant – have not been, but it is on Fodor’s list, see their review. My guess from reading the Fodor’s review is that it has no ambience at all, but perfectly fine food. (Expect bright florescent lights, Formica tables, etc). |
I was very happy to discover that Open Rice now has an English section. Admittedly my Chinese is pretty poor. :-(
http://www.openrice.com/english/restaurant/index.htm |
KM: Yes, I have been delving into OpenRice in my spare time! Do you live in HK, too?
Cicerone; Many thanks, again, for your list and for this additional information. The problem is a happy one: An overabundance of choice. I think that Tim's Kitchen and Fu Sing are "on the list" (Fu Sing based on info from Chowhound) as are either Spring Deer or Peking Garden. SangKee looks interesting, too! And then there is dim sum to think about! Your list mentions a new place in the Aqua Restaurant Group--Yun Fu, that SCFPhoto liked a lot (see post above) While the website says this is a NW restaurant, the dishes are all over the map. But I think this is something my friends might really like--over the top, beautiful, with a very broad menu where they can find something that interests them. So I think it might be a good bet, too: http://www.aqua.com.hk/#/?eng&yunFu&concept |
ekscrunchy
I live in Singapore. I've visited HK many times. Last year was there twice. Hope to visit before Chinese New Year. |
KM: Lucky you! I think you must live in THE best eating city on the planet! Singapore was the first place I ever visited in Asia so I have a "soft spot" in my heart for your home.
Many thanks for all of the HK tips; please add to this if you think of any other ideas, and I will return with more questions after I do a bit of reading. |
One place that looks really good for roast Cantonese meats in Wanchai:
Joy Hing, 265-267 Hennessey Road Mentioned on quite a few food sites..any comments? |
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..and one interesting Mongkok dim sum place, Tim Ho Wan, started by a former Four Seasons LKH chef. It received a Michelin star. Apparently it is tiny and you often have to wait in line:
http://www.cnngo.com/hong-kong/none/...m-quest-476978 |
Anyone else care to comment on HK dining?
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I am in HK right now and had lunch yesterday at Lung King Heen. The dim sum was especially good (the goose buns were REALLY good!). I was with my brother who has eaten there several times, so he did all the ordering.
Some things I would pass on (the desserts), but we had the Honey Pork, the suckling pig, and several different dim sum. It was all delicious. Maybe go for lunch so it's less expensice than dinner?? |
Thanks! We are staying there so will surely have time for a meal...good to know the high price is worth it..
I also put Lei Garden on my list; it is in the IFC mall near the hotel. And I added Yun Fu. the restaurant of the Aqua Group in Central, featuring NW cuisine. Will either try that or Hutong...have to try that lamb! |
A couple of people have said what I was going to say ie Peking Garden is ok but for Peking Duck, definitely go to Spring Deer.You will need to book as it is very popular.Do not be put off by the entrance to the building. You will enjoy it.
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Thanks, Peter. I have Spring Deer on my radar.
Question: Is it necessary to book the places mentioned more than a day or two in advance for a dinnertime of around 7:30 during non-New=Year periods? I am wondering whether I need to ask the hotel to make my bookings before I leave home..or can I wait until I arrive in HK. |
For very good dim sum you should try the huge dim sum rest on the 2nd floor of City Hall in Central, great view,good service and they still have the carts being pushed around for you to choose from and also menues in English. Go early or book or expect to register and wait up to an hour.
Spring Deer is very good for duck and has been going for decades. All 5* hotels here serve 5* food with a price tag to match. 4 Seasons is good and I reckon it will cost about hk$300 to 500-each you can also try the rests in Pacific Place, Admiralty, you can take the MTR straight into Pacific Place. If you are keen to try seafood and enjoy a boat trip then go to Lamma Island, we usually eat at the "Hilton" seafood place right next to the water a ferry leaves Central about every hour. The Aqua group is quite upmarket and the beautiful people like to to there, Dragon I is good for Dim sum on Wyndham Street, Central infact Wyndham St has lots of good eating places and Lan Kwai Fong is the hip and happening drinks place to hang out which is just the next street to Wyndham. It's cold here so bring a coat, enjoy Hong kong |
Many thanks! Maxim's City Hall seems to get very mixed reports, but will keep it in mind if we are in the area. Correct me here, but don't most dim sum places in HK have order sheets/menus in English? is there any advantage of visiting a place with carts? Would freshness be a more obtainable goal if the dim sum are prepared to order from a menu? I love dim sum and want to try everything on offer so all tips are helpful!
We will be there the third week in March--hope it warms up a bit by then!!! |
Most of the better dim sum places use a order sheet now, not a cart.
BTW, if you're in Central, alternative place for dim sum is the Chiu Chow Garden in the basement of Jardine House (the highrise with the round windows). Also run by the Maxim's group, a little bit higher end than the one in the City Hall. |
I second ekscrunchy's recommendation: Tim Ho Wan is awesome! We went there a few months ago and the wait is super long (get there early in the morning to get your number if you hope to wait less than two hours) but it's very delicious. Pork buns are their specialty. Apparently it is the world's cheapest Michelin star restaurant. More info and pics in our Hong Kong post at http://patrinadoestheglobe.blogspot.com/
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As far as booking a table goes, I have never booked before I leave home and usually a couple of days or so before when I am actually in Hong Kong.
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The reason I think most places do not have the carts is that there is not enough space for them. Maxim’s is quite large and has been around for years, and has space for the carts. But in any event, I don’t think you would notice a difference in the freshness of the food. In the larger places, I don’t know that a lot of the dim sum is made to order, esp as it comes out so quickly you can’t imagine it could have been. I think good bit of the standard items are in steamers in the kitchen. (Maxim’s does not take reservations to the best of my knowledge, having called them numerous time to attempt bookings over the years. My suggestion is to go at 11:45 am and beat the lunch crowd. This may not work as well on a Sunday. Note that Maxim’s has pretty much lost their view to reclamation going on in front of them, and the view is now pretty much a mess of dirt, cranes and trucks. In about a year there will probably be no view at all. So don’t bother with a harbour view table. )
Almost all dim sum restaurants in the main tourist areas have menus in English. A few places (like West Villa), do not, and may not have staff who speak extensive English (although West Villa’s Kowloon or Causeway Bay locations may have English menus). So having a few favourites written in Chinese can be helpful if you are going to a more off-the-beaten-path place; or check websites to see if you can get translations you can print out and bring with you. (I’ll bet there are some out there). But I would say this is the exception more than the rule, and you should expect to find English menus in most places. Other diners can also be helpful if you find yourself in a place with no English menus. Of course, that is where carts are helpful, as you can see a bit of what you are getting. If you end up in a place without carts or English menus, then you might just point at the menu and order; as you like “everything” you will be sure to end up with some favourites, and also some new things. Sometimes, it is better not to know the exact contents and just to eat without question. I find this to be the case with items like pig’s ear or organ meat, which taste better than they look on a menu, frankly. Hopefully you like chicken or duck feet, as the just-pointing-at-the-menu method may yield those. |
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