BillT's BKK Trip Report
 

Day 1-
Departure from Houston to Minneapolis. Flight was nearly full but otherwise fine. I found Minneapolis airport easy to navigate. It has a nice shopping mall and getting from domestic gates to the international gates was a breeze- no going thru security again. I notice a high number of Asians in this airport.

next flight - to Narita- we thought we had the middle seat open - but alas it turned out to be a cattle car- so much for the airlines hurting! Northwest flies old 747's and the attendants are all members of AARP! Not much fun in this group - a bit on the grouchy side. OK here is where I make my comment that one reson the US airlines are suffering is their service- lousy- the Asian airlines beat them by a mile! They just know how to serve - its in their genes!

The food however was not bad, I actually enjoyed the food they served- so at least they have improved in that area. We had FF miles to use up and that is why we are flying Northworst...uh I mean Northwest.

Last flight to BKK was on a nice new Airbus and we had the two seats -aisle/window which made a big difference. We landed on time but there was not gate for us so they had to bus us off the plane and to the terminal. The immigration lines were very long. We got our bags and Rat met us at Gate 3- the meeting point for all. 30 minutes to mthe hotel.Checked into our Royal Club room at the Plaza Athenee- very nice hotel and room. About 45 sq meters and a very spacious and modern bathroom- a must fort Olive.

We finally go sleep by 3 am. It was up at 7 am and out the door at 9 am for our buffet breakfast. The food was very good at the buffet- plenty of choices- made to order eggs and other items. Noodles and fried rice were excellent as were the dim sum. I had the shrimp soimai.

After brerakfast it was time to hit the streets. We did the Thai Craft Fair as this was the only opportunity we would have to do it. We walked to the skytrain and got to the fair in short order.An interesting fair with many booths - however we did not find anything that we wanted to purchase. prices here are fixed.

Then it was on to Siam Paragon to shop and also to buy some fruit Olive was looking for and found in their gourmet market -Longkong I believe its called. Next we headed to MBK and did some shopping- Olive bought a purse there and some socks.. By this time it was about 3 pm and we were starting to feel the jet lag. so back at the hotel after a skytrain ride.We had the afternoon tea in the club lounge and then back at the room we rested. I stopped down for the evening happy hour and then retired back to our room.

Day 1 is in the books. Weather- warm but not too hot, a bit windy at times and some clouds later in the afternoon.

Thanks for the update. The NW/Delta flights to Narita are always full. Should they have had Ladyboys as attendants? Lots of planes land around 11:30 pm and immigration can be slow.

We liked the Plaza Athenee a lot. Take an early morning walk to Lumphini Park. It's a blast.

Timely report, no penalty

good start....sorry you did not find anything at craft fair....karen always buys a million things there....in fact this year she bought several pieces of very nice sterling jewelry among a ton of other things...

glad you like the PA.. i knew you would...

have fun

Well I think if we had ladyboys instead of that flight group it would have bit a whole lot more fun!
Today - Sunday if we have the energy we will attack the weekend market. Tonight Dinner with friends at Banyon Tree.

Thanks for checking in - enjoy your time in Bangkok!

so where are the updates??

Had the pleasure of meeting with Bill and Olive last night! The weather is lovely in Bangkok at the moment and I think they are out enjoying themselves.

We had a very enjoyable evening with Pook and his lovely daughter.

Day 3-
Today we are heading out to the silver shops behind the Oriental hotel. Last night Olive had her first massage at our hotel. We use a woman that we used on our last trip who is very experienced. Olive will have her massage daily from 3-5pm- full body and facial.

Ah, it's a rough life... Olive has the right idea.

I'm thinking by now the US ought to name Hanuman official ambassador...seems like he meets each and every Fodorite arriving in BKK! (And very nice for the Fodorite!)

BC

I was thinking that too BC. Personaly i am really looking forward to meeting Hanuman, Craig, Jeane etc next month

I feel like a tourist attraction!

...and those of us who haven't met you have enjoyed seeing some lovely photos.

hanuman, more like a fodors asia icon, or a living treasure. :-)

Ah, yes, we could designate you a living treasure, Hanuman!

i told him i thought he was right up there with the grand palace and jim thompson house, only without the glitz....

seriously pook, all of us appreciate your frequent posts here and your willingness to share with this community---oh yes and your friendship of course...

Don't mean to hijack your post Bill but just want to say that I'm happy to meet other Fodorites when they are in town and thank you all for your kind words.

Day 4 - Tuedasy Jan 19-
Breakfast as usual. This day Olive has her massage from 11am to 1 pm. Sunum gives her a different massage each day and has already relieved Olive of a number of ailments. I headed out on my own to Pratunum Market- on my last trip I only explored the Pratunum builidng complex. This time I headed across the stree to the market stalls- here I found the shopping to be much better. Also bargaining was not a problem here and I even found the fruit that Olive was unable to find at the other marketsa in town (this fruit called Atis is out of season now in BKK- which explains why its hard to find). I spent a few hours going thru all the stalls here. On my way to the market I stopped to view a Chinese new year celebration replete with dragons, dancers, and some sort of queen/bride like woman and her court. Its a bit early for Chinese new year. One thing I'm noticing here in BKK- a lot of the women and some men are spoting jackets, sweaters, tights, etc. Ok its mid to high 80's with some humidity and its not cool in terms I understand so why are these folks in jackets? Ok my guess is two fold- 1) Its their winter and they are breaking our their winter garb- temps be dammed and or 2)they want to be fashionable. But I digress... back on the sky train to the hotel. I like riding the skytrain for 2 reasons- 1) I get to see more of the city from above and all the different people that board the trains and 2) its very predictable as to how much time it will take in travweling from A to B. Taxis - might just get stuck in traffic and burn up a lot of time and in some cases these taxi drivers don't always know how to get there- again more time wasted.
Dinner this evening is with a family friend who is an executive with SONY here in BKK. We ate at Baan Khanitha-it was very good. The ambiance is very Thai, we had chicken in pandan leaves, shrimp balls on sugar cane sticks, pork in red curry sauce and crab fried rice.

We have also been contacted by another Fodorite- Ken Sato who indicated that he will be in BKK next week so we are hooking up for lunch on Jan. 28th - place TBD but I'm thinking of the Dim Sum buffet at the Liu restaurant at the Conrad Hotel for that.

Another relaxing day in the land of smiles is in the books.

bill the dim sum is not a buffet at liu....its order from a menu of about 42 items....i can attest that all 42 are delicious...

Day 5 - Wednesday
Breakfast at 8:30 - there is always something different at this buffet. They vary the Thai noodles and pastries. I like their har gow and sui mai.

Today we venture out for the Temple of Dawn. This was one attraction that we never made it to during our previous 2 trips. It will also be the first time we used the water taxis.
We took the skytrain and then looked for the express boat (Orange flag) at the central pier.You have to be quick to get a seat as there always seems to be a large crowd here. Also you do not want to sit along the side of the boat as you get water spray in your face at times. Now if that is not an issue for you- then its a great seat because you get a great view and the breeze coming off the water. I got conflicting info about how to pay. We just boarded the boat and there was a lady that comes thru shaking her change thigamagig- you pay her. I was not sure how much so for the both of us I gave her 40 and she returned 14 so it was 26 for the both of us. The express boat does not stop at every pier- you must pay attention to what boat you get on to be sure it stops where you want to get off.
Its a nice ride - maybe 20 mintes or so and you are at Wat Arun - but across the river from it. You transfer over to the cross river ferry. You pay the attendant on the pier - 3 baht each and you go thru a turnstyle and then into the ferry which takes you across in 5 minutes or so.
You pay nothing as you walk into the grounds. Now there are these picture things where you can stick your face thru and yes you too can be a Thai princess- but look to the bottom of this thing and you will see that it costs you 40 baht for this priviledge. I had seen pictures of this temple but nothing prepares you for seeing it in person - simply amazing the detail and artwork involved in these buildings. Now to get up close to the temple you need to buy a ticket - 50 baht each. We did and went in. You can climb the steep - I mean steep steps- that go way way up the structures. I went up one flight that was enough for me. We took pictures and then after touring the site went back to take the ferry across. This time you pay to get out - not much I think it was 5 or 8 baht. We rode back to the skytrain and the took the train back to the hotel. Olive gets here massage at 3-5 pm , then we plan to head out to Siam Paragon and have Japanese food at the Fugi restaurant there in Paragon. After that we may visit a few stores in the area.

Weather today was very good- somewhat cloudy and the temps were maybe mid 80's humidty not oppressive- a good day to be out visiting temples.

Bill, great report. Thank you for posting. Pls send some dim sum. 40 plus varieties will do us all very well.

I plan to do Wat Arun too next month as i have never made it there in my last 5 trips to BKK. Glad for the info on how to get there.
Enjoying your on the ground report.

far easier to take a taxi there if you are not being dropped off by a long tail boat....

i don't remember ever having to pay an entrance fee at wat arun...

it is amazing

Enjoying your report Bill, the dim sum report is making me hungry.

Ken Sato also known as kuranosuke? You must be mistaken, he told me he didn't have any plans for travel this year till August,lol

Aloha!

Bill, just following along here. We visited Wat Arun on our first trip to Bangkok. It is a really amazing temple. We really still haven't figured out the river taxis but still manage to get around. Say "Hi" to Ken for Jeane and I. Glad the PA is working out for you. Also that you and Olive had a good time with Pook and his daughter (hard not to).

Nice description of how to use the water taxis, Bill.

The detailing on Wat Arun is amazing, isn't it? All that broken china!

*Waves hello from the Old Bangkok Inn."

Bill - did you find the baby clothes? Have a couple pregnant friends who I want to get gifts for....

Yes I found the baby clothes at Pratunum market- not the building but the stalls across the street from the building. There is a shop along the street stalls there that has baby clothes. Bargain- especially if you buy more than one- go at least 30-40 % off the asking price. They are friendly and will work with yo. Now don't say the price use your calculator or take their calculator and punch in your price- you will get a better deal that way. The shop owners don't want others to hear what price you are paying. Don't be shy -but keep a smile on your face at all times. What do is ask what the price is for one, then I ask for the price for say 5 or 6 items of the same thing- then the bargaining begins. The price that they give you for six should be discounted already and you just go from there and get the best deal you can.

If its a cloudy day this is a great time to take the boats out to the temples- yes the water taxis can be a bit confusing but there are people there to explain how it all works. I was able to download the water taxis routes and ifo off the internet but I must say you don't get a clear picture of how it all works- just be sure you get on the right boat- the flags indicate where its a local boat that stops all along the route or an express boat- and there are several express boats- that make on some stops. We topok the orange flag boat as it stops at Temple of Dawn. No queing up its just a mass of humanity herding on to the boat - every man for himself to get a seat- you have to be a bit assertive- but not overly. It was a mystery what the fare would be but just get on the boat and the ticket lady will wander thru clanging here thigamig and you just hand her a 20 baht bill and she will make change for you.
Day 6 - Thursday
We will have our usual buffet breakfast - this is our big meal of the day and we graze here for at least an hour or longer. We give the staff at the restaurant candy canes and chocolate bars- and the cooks as well- they are all very happy to receive these tokens of appreciation. After breakfast Olive will have her massage from Sunum from 11 am to 1 pm. Sunum is a master at her craft after taking many courses and practicing for 20 plus years. She is able to resolve many aches and pain issues that Olive has. Olive prefers to have her massage at the hotel as she can shower afterwards and put her makeup on , etc- its far more relaxing than going out to some spa.
After the massage we have absolutely nothing planned- hey we are on vacation and its nice to just kick back and do nothing if we want. I suspect we will find somthing to do or some place to explore but for now its come what may!

You've always had to pay to access the prang (towers) at Wat Arun. Taking a taxi there and back would certainly suck up most of a day, unless you were staying at the Pen. Has Bob actually been to Wat Arun?

several times michael....and i did not find it takes long at all in a taxi.... but then the motorcycle escort may help...

I'm goint to try and work out the water taxi thing. Will try and find a pdf of teh route.

Flashback to Day 2-
Ok Olive says I did not give much detail to our dinner on day 2 and she is right- I was jet lagged- yeah thats a good excuse- so here goes:
Before our trip we had asked Pook that while we are in Bangkok we would like to meet Pook and his family. Pook being a very busy business man indicated that if he had some time in his busy schedule we could meet for dinner- we were flexible as to which day. It turned out that he and his daughter were available on the 17th. We indicated that Chinese would be good and could he suggest a place- nothing fancy just good food and of course good company.
He suggested Banyon Tree- their Chinese restaurant. Ok 7 pm was set. We took a cab there- it was a short ride and we arrived at 6:45. A bit early and we went to Pier 59 ( It seems the Chinese restaurant was being renovated or something like that so the venue was Pier 59. The hostess showed us to a private room with a great view of the city (59th floor). Very nice. Pook and his daughter arrived and we exchanged introductions and sat down. We had champaigne to toast our event- it was very good! Then we started off with an crab/cavier appetizer and some delicious small round bread- very different. Then the menus were presented - there were two actually, one - a book like affair with many pages of Chinese items and the other menu a glass tablet- perhaps left over from Moses? but I digress-. We allowed Pook to choose for us. Pook choose a chicken in black bean sauce, some vegatables, crab fried rice , and a beef dish- all were very good.
After some stimutlating reparte ( I believe thats french for good conversation) we thought the evening was about to come to a close but nooooooo Pook suggests we retire to the Moon bar for cocktails. Pook graciously retrieved the check as it was presented. Now we did after all ask to meet him for dinner so protocol requires that I pay for this meal, and as I reached for the bill I was too late as Pook snatched it and paid the bill - - I suddenly realized that I did not bring my American Express card this evening and to cover this tab I'd have to call the bank and get a bridge loan- so I sort of froze-at least thats what I recall and thats my story and I'm sticking to it
Now our group ascends to the Moon Bar- I say ascend because thats what you do -we are lead by the Sherpas- er I mean the hostess to the first set of stairs as I climb up these steep stairs I'm thinking - this is not so bad- then we move on to another set of stairs- I'm now thinking when do we get to base camp? Up we go more stairs they are getting narrow and steep- then we go down and then up- already I'm looking for the oxyegen bottles. Finally we reach the summit- er I mean the Moon Bar- its open air- we are on top of the world- or at least the top of Bangkok. Its crowded and very comfortable- will there be altitude sickness - I think not. We are seated and we order our drinks. (It turns out the drinks were complimentary as Pook is well known at this place).
Now I'm thinking where are those blinking red lights- you know the ones to signal to airplanes not to fly into this place. We finished our drinks and now make our descent- go slow so as not to get the bends (does that happen at altitude?).
At the lobby we bid our hosts farewell as we jump into a cab.
It was without saying a night to remember and we again thank our gracious and most generous hosts Pook and his daughter Mony.

Bill
Sounds like a lovely dinner w/Pook. He and his family are great representatives of/for Bangkok!

Have you checked out Platinum Mall yet? It is across the street from the Pratunam Market area. Olive would enjoy the 5th floor, I think.

yes, don't miss platinum fashion mall....we much prefer it to MBK.... K gets tons of cheap shoes there and also fabulous cheap necklaces from the place in the front corner of floor 5...next to the ATM machines....

how about those stairs at banyon tree....but it is all worth it when you are out in the fresh air.... pook and dang are just simply natural hosts...

We are not surprised that you ducked the check. Pook is quick. He and his daughter are charming. I have no idea why they continue to meet Fodorites. I would have thought that dinner with Bob and me would have cured him. Perhaps he figured that it could only get better.

Day 6 - Thursday Jan 21
Today after breakfast I will strike out on my own Olive will have her massage from 11 to 1 pm. Already Olive has been lining up more business for Sunum as we meet people at breakfast and the subject turns to massage. Where to go today as I break out my trusty Nancy Chandler map- which I had to tape all the creases as they were beginning to tear. Across from the Siam station and on the other side of Siam Paragon the map indicates an area of shops - the purple area for those following along on your map- so I'm thinking yes we have not explored this area as yet. So I head out to the skytrain. he weather is nice - they called for rain but the sky appears to be clear- neither rain nor snow (well at least rain) will stop me on my mission.

ATTENTION- we interupt this trip report to bring you this breaking news.... a woman was spoted coming out of Siam Paragon wearing a 3/4 length white down coat- repeat a 3/4 length white down coat. Witnesses decribe her as Asian, petite, attractive, about 5 foot tall with black hair. ( hey come to think of it I have seen someone that fits that description and I have been married to her for 23 years- but I digress). Authorities advise if you see this woman do not approach, this is not a wardrobe malfunction. We return you now to this regularly scheduled trip report....

Ok I arrive at Siam and begin to explore this area. After a bit of searching I do see what the map is referring to but it seems that most of the stalls are not yet open - its almost 11 am and its a weekday so what gives? Ok this is a bit of a bust so we go to Plan B- everyone should have a plan B. After perusing my trusty map I spring into action. back on the train and I ride to the end of the line - On Nut. I descend and hop into the cab that is waiting at the foot of the stairs. I hand the driver a note that has the address. My man take me to the promised land, the pot of gold at the end of this rainbow, to ShangriLa (no not the hotel), in other words take me to.... The Jim Thompson Factory Outlet. Ok he looks puzzeled- does he not know the father of the Thai silk industry? Any way we set off and I'm watching the streets and soon we get to Soi 93 and we make the turn and go up the street for about 3-4 blocks in what appears to be a somewhat ramshackle neighborhood- good that means low overhead and cheap prices on things. Then he stops at this very modern building- I am there. I enter and they tag and take my bag. I go the to the fourth floor and I'm sensing that bargains are going to be a rare find. This does not have the appearance of any true outlets that I am familiar with. Ok I made this treck I'm not leaving with out a few baubles- so I make a few select purchases- nothing in the store is less that 160 Baht. I leave and hail a cab out front. Now the cab ride over was fast and 40 baht with tip. This return ride was anything but. This guy takes me all thru the back streets ( now I'm in the REAL Thailand). We swerve thru narrow streets narrowly avoiding scooters rounding each bend and then after a winding route we are back on Sukhumvit and then after about 5 minutes we arrive at the BTS. Cost - 55 baht - with a little tip. Train ride back to the hotel.
Dinner that evening was at Fugi Japanese restaurant in Siam Paragon- good tempura - we ordered 3 orders with drinks and steamed rice. Came to about 720 baht. The we shopped the Gourmet market at Paragon- this place has a lot of really interesting food items which we purchased some for the trip home. The we walked around the food court and found a lot of good ideas for future meals- many samples to try as well.
Then we headed home another day in the books!

Thank you for the trip report and all the fun comments, the bantering back and forth is so refreshing. I'm going to be in Bangkok for two whole full days, yes I know pretty dumb to be only two days but had no choice.

I arrive at midnight and questions for all you experts, I want to take a day trip to see the top sights the first day and the River Kwai the next day is this doable for a senior or am I like a little kid in a candy store wanting everything what would you suggest. I also would like to go shopping at some of the places you have recommended will it be a crazy maker for me. I've looked at some of the various day trips around Bangkok and don't have a clue as which one would be the best for interest and a very jet lagged lady after a 20 hour flight, by the way it's on NW. Yikes I could spend the two days shopping but no I need to see Bangkok.

JT outlet isn't cheap. No JT items are cheap... anywhere! But they are so well made, and the fabrics are so stunning, I usually cannot resist at least a few "baubles" as you call them.

The Siam Square area across from Paragon (sort of)... (I think that's where you went) has some smaller shops, with some new Thai designers who show their stuff here. This is a place where the young Thais shop.

Curious.... does Olive like the "real" (rough) Thai massage, or something more soothing? I'm not a massage person at all, other than foot massage once in a while.

Carol

Not rough-gentle but effective massage is her cup of tea.

Hi Carol,

I always tell Sunum to give me a gentle massage each time. She thinks it's a waste of money but I don't care. I always tell her do it "gently" no "hard grasp of my muscles" and "no cracking of knuckles" and I asked the lady here at the Club Lounge to write these phrases in Thai. Told Sunum that any strong Thai massage, she's out. Gosh! I want a massage and not someone beating me up.

Nice to hear from you, Carol. Hope to catch you someday here or in the U.S.

Olive