Bali and Java - 24 September to 23 October 2014
 

Here we go.

Basic itinerary to start with. I'll bulk it out as we go along, and hopefully end up with a trip report...

23 Sep: Overnight Gatwick Central Travelodge.

24 Sep: Dep LGW @ 1310 by Garuda to Jakarta.

25 Sep: Arr Jakarta @ 1140. Dep Jakarta @ 1400 by Garuda for Bali.

25 Sep: Arr Bali @ 1700. Taxi transfer to accommodation in north Sanur.

25 Sep to 1 Oct (inc): Homestay booked on Airbnb.

2 Oct: Move onto Ubud, by Perama Tours shuttle @ 40,000 rupiah each.

2 Oct to 8 Oct (inc): Ayung Raka Resort, Ubud.

9 Oct: Move on to Tuban, by Perama Tours shuttle @ 40,000 rupiah each.

9 Oct to 11 Oct (inc): Manggar Hotel, Tuban.

12 Oct: Dep Bali @ 0800 by Air Asia to Yogyakarta (Java).

12 Oct: Arr Yogyakarta @ 0810. Taxi transfer to accommodation in central Yogyakarta.

12 Oct to 18 Oct (inc): Favehotel, Yogyakarta.

19 Oct: Dep Yogyakarta @ 0835 by Air Asia for Bali.

19 Oct: Arr Bali @ 1045. Taxi transfer to accommodation in Kuta.

19 Oct to 22 Oct (inc): Swiss Belhotel Rainforest Hotel, Kuta.

23 Oct: Dep Bali @ 2150 by Garuda for LGW via Jakarta.

24 Oct: Arr LGW @ 1155

Why are we starting off in Sanur?

It seems just right for us. Close to the airport, not in your face like Kuta, and not too quiet like Nusa Dua(?).

We thoroughly enjoyed the homestay we stayed at recently in Kathmandu, booked on Airbnb, so we've gone down the same route...

https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/2517726?s=0ohM

It's in the north of Sanur, looks as though the area is quiet [perhaps a few yapping dogs and cockerels] but we've got ear-plugs. There's only 4 guest-rooms, 20-odd positive reviews on Airbnb, the owners live on-site and we'll be 'tapping' them for lots of good information Close to the seafront, beachfront walkway, restaurants, bars bus route into Denpasar, and the Perama Tours office for the shuttle bus to Ubud and Candi Dasa and Padangbai. Appears perfect, hope so!

I like Sanur, as it's a charming small town. Nusa Dua is a purpose-built tourist enclave. The problem isn't that it is "too quiet" the problem is that it is "not Bali."

Enjoy central Java - it is one of my favorite destinations.

Airbnb's are being shut down in the boston area as illegal businesses, beware.

nothing really to do in denespar, imo.

That'll be due to Boston's local licensing regulations, which is fair enough.

My friendly guide book has provided enough for us to do for a day in Denpasar, including the Museum Negeri Propinsi, a self-guided tour of the leafier streets, and some excellent warungs to keep energy levels up.

For us, it's about what we can afford, and doing enough homework to get the best we can within the budget. We'll have a great time in Bali and Java by following my model.

A villa is well off our financial radar. What we do suits us fine, but obviously a lot of other folk want, expect, and can afford more luxury.

We've already had 5 weeks in Nepal, plus 2 weeks on the Turkey Bodrum Peninsula this year. 3 weeks after we get home (Portsmouth, UK) from Bali, we're off on an All-Inclusive cruise to the Eastern Caribbean. There's no way we could afford that if we put all our 'beans' into a single annual trip.

Unlicensed airbnb rentals have also been subject to a government crackdown in Bali. Your place looks fairly established so it's probably legal, but if you want to be sure, ask if they have a Pondok Wisata, which is a license to rent rooms. If they are not charging villa tax (which I believe is now 15.5%) they may not be kosher.

I think humble, simple places like this in Balinese neighborhoods can be fun -- but make sure you get an good mosquito net. Also, it appears that the villa is on the "wrong" side of the main Sanur highway so getting to the beach may be somewhat difficult by foot.

Denpasar is the commercial heart of Bali. The leafy part is limited to the the foreign consulates, mostly it is nuts and bolts utilitarian shops and services, densely populated with nightmarish traffic. I'd give it a miss.

The place in Ubud looks great. It's definitely more than a 10 minute walk to Ubud central, but there will be ample restaurants, shops, spas etc. near the villa.

I would suggest you reconsider your choices in Southwest Bali -- Tuban and Sunset Road are to me the worst of Bali. Tuban because it's too near the airport and in the most run down part of Kuta, and Sunset Road because it's a major thoroughfare -- trafficked, polluted, and everything you come to Bali to get away from. You can find budget accommodations in charming neighborhoods in Kuta, Legian, Petitenget, Batu Belig; I'd keep looking.

alison, Chandra Villas are well designed architecturally in a convenient quiet neighborhood., close to a good beach. Whether they're worth the cost is a personal decision.

There are plenty of less sophisticated budget places in South Bali -- in all of the beach areas. I personally like Petitenget and Batu Belig, but you'll also find good values in Legian, Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur.

Marmot.

Thanks for the information, much appreciated.

I'm not going to let the politics of Airbnb bother me. The place comes well recommended. Being on the wrong side of a main road is only a minor twice a day nuisance. Can't be any worse than trying to cross the Kathmandu Ring Road, or countless other roads in SE Asia.

Denpasar still looks interesting. Sounds like most people give it a miss, but that's a good enough reason to visit. Our walk will only cover a small area close to the Kereneng Bemo station. Museum Negeri Propinsi - Puputan Square - Catur Muka statue - Inna Bali hote - Pasar Badung Market - Pasar Kumbasari - Pur Maospahit temple - Puri Pemecutan.

We've got an excellent deal at the hotel in Ubud. Being slight out of the centre of town will make for a few healthy walks.

We've chosen Tuban for a couple of nights because we've got an early morning flight to Yogyakarta, and Tuban is close to the fish markets at Jimbaran, and for a trip round the Bukit Peninsula. Being a run-down doesn't bother us.

We've got a great Junior Suite deal at the Swiss Belhotel on Sunset Road.

Traffic congestion and the pollution that goes with it looks like it's got a stranglehold on much of the island.

No, traffic, pollution -- and Western fast food joints -- don't have a stranglehold on most of the island. By choosing to stay on Snset Road you're willingly putting yourself in the middle of the worst of it.

Typing into Google 'Bali traffic chaos' brings up loads of links, and lots of images. Most which do suggest that traffic congestion is a major problem on MUCH of Bali, as well as poor driving discipline, and lots of accidents. Here's one link...

http://www.balidiscovery.com/message...ge.asp?Id=7157

The Trans Sarbagita Bus [mentioned in the above link] sounds interesting, but probably quite difficult to fathom out for visitors not used to it...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop..._Bus-Bali.html

I've looked at my booking confirmation for the hotel on Sunset Road. It's non-refundable. So I'm stuck with it, but it's only for 4 nights, and I'm sure there'll be taxis available.

@Kathie<<<no images of the calm, quiet of the rice fields, etc. It is a great way to get only one side of the story.>>>

I am listening to feet on the ground, and grateful for the advice.

I'm fully expecting and looking forward to seeing and enjoying the greener side of things, when we start our 2nd week, in Ubud. And also to be able to get off the beaten track a bit, and see what's further afield.

But as well as getting off the main roads I'm also expecting the main road leading to Ubud to be v.busy, and also the roads in the centre of Ubud to be chaotic during the day.

@Hanuman<<<It explain why he has chosen a home stay with no A/C for 6 nights during one of the hottest period around Denpasar (Sanur).>>>

Thousands of people choose homestays, and have a great time. I'm one of them. I don't see the big deal with A/C either, a fan is fine.

Denpasar for a few hours is planned, and we'll enjoy that too.

Nothing against homestays but the choice of choosing a place with no A/C in the tropic will make it uncomfortable and hard to sleep especially for a Westerner. For Ubud, with cool nights, maybe but for Denpasar or Sanur?

To each his own so enjoy!

@Hanuman<<<Nothing against homestays but the choice of choosing a place with no A/C in the tropic will make it uncomfortable and hard to sleep especially for a Westerner.>>>

Myanmar you get load-shedding (power cuts).
Nepal is the same.
Power cuts can and do go on for hours, or even days at a time.
I lived in Riyadh, the centre of Saudi Arabian desert for 4 years. Red hot most of the time, fry an egg on the pavement.
You just accept it and get on with it.
Have you read the reviews of the place I'm staying at? Anything negative?
It's my choice. I'll report as I find.

Getting back on topic.

I've laid out our itinerary.

Looks like I might have made the odd mistake, due mainly to choosing accommodation too close to where the traffic is at it's worst and most polluted. I'll live with that.

Bali is marketed as being an idyllic tourist destination. But are the tens of thousands of motor bikes in danger of killing off the goose that laid the golden egg?

More to be discussed.

Added for easy future reference...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...asar_Bali.html

Sanur looks like a A1 relaxing venue for our first week.

More reference, Ubud places to eat...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Ubud_Bali.html

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Ubud_Bali.html

Smoking...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...laws-Bali.html

I don't mind smokers, as when laws are observed and enforced they're easy to avoid.

But if one thing is going to kick me off, it's smokers who don't smoke when they're eating. Then once they've finished their meal they 'light-up' without any consideration for people who are eating on nearby tables.

I hope there'll be plenty of places with 'No Smoking' signs which are observed by customers, and enforced by staff.

That's way out of my league.

For 4 weeks accommodation I've paid...

- Sanur (7 nights) Airbnb homestay - £96

- Ubud (Ayung Raka Resort) (7 nights) - £157

- Tuban (Manggar Hotel)(3 nights) - £57

- Yogyakarta (Favehotel) (7 nights) - £121 (booked with Air Asia as a flight/hotel package) between Bali - Yogyakarta). The flight element for 2 pax return was £98, so taotal for package was £219)

- Kuta (Swiss Belhotel Rainforest)(4 nights) - £87

Breakfast included for all, apart from Kuta.

Total for 28 nights: £518 (US$829)

Flights x 2 pax (return London Gatwick to Bali with Garuda) - £1,155 (US$1,848).

Flights x 2 pax (return Bali to Yogyakarta with Air Asia - £98 (US$157).

So total outlay so far is £1,771 (US$2,834).

Sounds like massive over planning.

Why dont u just wing it?

Book 2 nights to start then follow the wind. More fun that way.

I just read u picked Kuta for 4 nights. Bogan hell hole.

Why go there?

I don't want to spend too much time in the traffic. Sanur is sound, Ubud's ultra sound, and Yogykarta's somewhere completely different.

Kuta's just there to finish off with. Might not be the best location, but we'll survive.

I rarely book longer than 5 nights. A place might sound good but you get there and dont like it so much and want to move on. Prebooking all of this locks you in.

LL - I'll be following your trip with interest, I really enjoyed reading your report on Nepal

Geordie - Thanks.

Boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. Copied and pasted from another forum for future reference...

"Glory Express have just launched a beautiful brand-new boat (seating 48 people) in early August 2014. We walked up to Nyoman at the waiting lounge they have on the beach (they are in orange t-shirts). He was super-friendly and helpful and sold us RETURN tickets for 200,000 Rps each!! (no haggling required! This was by far the cheapest fare we had been able to negotiate in more than an hour with the other booking offices/touts/etc and 40% of what our hotel offered). They organised transport to and from our accommodation on Nusa Ceningan for this price. Very smooth and comfortable reclining seats (like an aircraft).

The boat leaves Sanur at 08:30 and 15:00 and depart (Jungut Batu Beach) Lembongan 09:30 and 16:30 daily. Takes 25 minutes.

Glory Express phone number (from the ticket) is 0361 4080243. Highly recommended."

add the island of Lombok, Sumbawa Komodo island also . Your tour will be complete, just a suggestion from me.

safest transportation in the world: Indonesian ferries

We're going to be going to Nusa Lembongan in October, so I just checked the Glory Express website. They quote their price for return tickets from Sanur-Nusa Lembongan as $50 each, which is about 585,000.00 IDR.That is the same price as Rocky fast boats.

http://www.gloryfastboats.com/#!book...lembongan/cjg9

Perhaps one can get a better price on the beach, or maybe the low price LancasterLad found was a temporary introductory deal.

Bookmark.
La Teverna Resort, Sanur offers a Day-Pass for use of swimming pool, loungers, and private beach area for 150,000 rupiah per day. The 150,000 rupiah is credited towards and food and drink bought. Bargain!

rje. For safety reasons it's probably best to book at the time you want to travel. You can then have a good look at the boat that you'll be catching. And if it's cheaper to book on the beach last minute, then all the better.

Looks like a good trip Lancaster.
I stayed in Sanur the first time I went to Bali - many years & return trips later.

Hope you have a great time & looking forward to your TR.

The Bali Travel Forum is a good source of knowledgeable, current information.

Chocks away, and a lovely sunny morning down here on the Hampshire coast to get the trip off on the right foot.

Catching a bus to LGW at 1230, arriving at 1430.

Overnight stay at Gatwick Central Travelodge, close to North Terminal. £44 including all-u-can-eat breakfast.

Relaxed breakfast in the morning, and then get to North Terminal by Hoppa Bus for about 0930.

Flight (Garuda) takes off at 1310, with a short stop at Amsterdam.

Got to change flights at Jakarta, and eventually arrive at Bali at 1700 on Thursday. Allowing for time-zones I think that's about 20 hours.

Hopefully VOA and immigration will be a painless affair.

I have alerted immigration-- a full body search will be conducted.

Funny you should mention immigration. We got completely wrong-footed when we arrived last Thursday afternoon. I was expecting VOA and Immigration to happen at Bali airport. But we went through it all in between Garuda flights at Jakarta.

Painlessly completed, neither queue was more than half a dozen people. So getting that out of the way in Jakarta saved [possible] lengthy queues at Bali.

The new domestic terminal at Bali is a breeze. A taxi to north Sanur cost 125K rupiah, and took just over an hour.

Received a v.warm welcome from our French/Indonesian hosts. Both are PADI folk, and own their own dining company.

The accommodation is a big bungalow, with 3 rooms to rent. Me and the cook [Rosemary from now on (lol)] are the only ones staying, so we've got the run of the place. No a/c, by a couple of fans.

Too tired to do much on the first night, so we just have a wander around the neighbourhood. A bit dark, glad we've got torches!

I hate these tablets, and all this predictive text stuff! Our hosts own a diving company. Samur or Samurai = Sanur, and binting or bitching = bintang.

A note about VOA.
While the fee is US$35, the cost is more if you pay in your own currency. Eg. I paid with a £50 sterling note. I got 375,000 rupiah change which = £19. So my visa cost £31 which = about US$49. A tidy sum when multiplied by many a visitor.

Staying at Gatwick Travelodge!! Things can only get better :-). BTW you can switch off the predictive text on most tablets.