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-   -   Asian Adventure - 5 weeks in Taiwan and Japan/Oct & Nov 2024 (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/asian-adventure-5-weeks-in-taiwan-and-japan-oct-and-nov-2024-a-1727273/)

mrwunrfl Mar 24th, 2025 08:00 AM

Taiwan was colorful.
Fukuoka airport is so convenient, close in so that a taxi transfer is at the price I want.
Loved the 753 children
Wonderful Hakata doru. I have a collection.
Find good food in Fukuoaka (mentaiko, ramen)? Maybe I forgot to recommend Chikae Restaurant to you

progol Mar 24th, 2025 08:43 AM


Originally Posted by mrwunrfl (Post 17642346)
Taiwan was colorful.
Fukuoka airport is so convenient, close in so that a taxi transfer is at the price I want.
Loved the 753 children
Wonderful Hakata doru. I have a collection.
Find good food in Fukuoaka (mentaiko, ramen)? Maybe I forgot to recommend Chikae Restaurant to you

Hi, mrwunrfl! I’m sure you recommended the Chikae restaurant but we were not up for searching a particular place out. As I said above, we enjoyed the experience of the yatai though certainly didn’t find the primo stands. And that 2nd night was so rainy, that convenience won the day!

The folklore museum was a small gem!

Taiwan was a wonderful surprise. We were very lucky in Tainan, too, where we caught some of the amazing anniversary celebrations.

tripplanner, I guess I’ll have to wait to follow your trip and see if we can manage a 3rd visit to Japan!

francebound Mar 24th, 2025 10:11 AM

Happy to find you have continued your report for us to enjoy! Looking forward to more.

KarenWoo Mar 24th, 2025 11:07 AM

I enjoyed your last couple days in Taiwan especially the night market. Love the food photos!

We always take a taxi from airports, train stations and bus stations to our hotels. I have no desire to take public transportation with our luggage. I need some pampering. :)

And I am enjoying the beginning of your second Japan trip. Do you think you were underwhelmed at first because you were tired from the heat and humidity of Taiwan? But so glad that you ended up thoroughly enjoying this second trip. Still not sure if we will make it to Japan so I enjoy reading your report and seeing your photos.

progol Mar 24th, 2025 11:39 AM

francebound, thank you! I'm glad to know you're still following!

<<And I am enjoying the beginning of your second Japan trip. Do you think you were underwhelmed at first because you were tired from the heat and humidity of Taiwan? But so glad that you ended up thoroughly enjoying this second trip. Still not sure if we will make it to Japan so I enjoy reading your report and seeing your photos.>>

KarenWoo, we had such a fabulous time on our first trip and I had such a hard time developing an itinerary for this trip. I had several plans that we almost did and I probably second-guessed myself waaay too much! We had a vision of what "Japan" is, with its wonderful aesthetic, and, at first, I wasn't quite "feeling" the Japan I had experienced the year before. Kyushu is more relaxed and more outdoorsy, and it was a different vibe from the prior year's trip. But it really unfolded nicely and we ended up loving our time there, culminating in the trip to Yakushima, which was truly a magical stop.

progol Mar 24th, 2025 11:44 AM

Japan Journey/Kyushu
Mt. Aso exploration

Mt. Aso, an active volcano region, is right next to Kurokawa Onsen and I thought it would be a shame not to at least view it. I found a wonderful guide, Max Wall, a lovely Swedish man who is married to a Japanese woman. He lives in the area and was able to drive us around the volcano (there are actually several - according to Max, there isn’t just just “one” Mt. Aso) and view the caldera, the flat area in the center. We really lucked out - the day was gorgeous, and such a change from the cloudy and rainy weather. Of course, we were not alone and the traffic was some of the busiest our guide had ever seen! Add that to the fact that it was a holiday weekend, and you can understand why there was bumper to bumper traffic at times! Still it was a fantastic day and wonderful to see the area!

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine
We stopped at the Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, an atmospheric shrine up 260 stone steps with 100 moss-covered stone lanterns on both sides. The shrine is the setting for a popular manga and anime Hotarubi no Mori e.
It was a gorgeous setting and the timing couldn’t have been better. The light filtering through the trees added to the already atmospheric sight.

We then had a wonderful meal at Takamori Dengaku Hozinkai, a charming restaurant over 100 years old, now run by the 3rd generation of a warm and welcoming family. Dengaku is the process of grilling food on skewers in an hearth - and that is what you come to this restaurant for. It was a fun place and very busy with locals having a Sunday afternoon meal as well as a few foreigners who’d read about the place.

Along the way, we stopped at a farmstand. I just loved the roof, made out of susuki grass, the tall grass with a silver or golden feathery top. It was solid as could be and elegant to see. And the baskets, so beautiful. The farm stands have produce that are left by local farmers, purchased on an honor system, with a little box to collect the money.

One of the attractions of visiting Kurokawa Onsen is to be able to visit other ryokans and experience their onsens. I had been torn between spending the day exploring Aso or visiting the ryokans, so I thought we’d get a taste after our tour with Max. We drove into town, but it was so crowded that we gave up. I was so glad we spent the day with Max exploring the region. Again, this was a holiday weekend so I imagine this level of crowding is very unusual.

progol Mar 24th, 2025 11:55 AM

Mt Aso drive
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progol Mar 24th, 2025 12:04 PM

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine
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If ever there was a place with spirits floating in the air, this is it. It was such a remarkable place, and the light coming through was simply out of this world.

progol Mar 24th, 2025 12:30 PM

Takamori Dengaku Hozinkai (a Dengaku restaurant)
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Explaining how to set up the grill with the skewers
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Max explaining the process to us

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We're a bit stunned by the whole experience!

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The skewers

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The skewers

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On the road again - the farmsteads

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The baskets - so beautiful!

progol Mar 25th, 2025 06:13 AM

Japan Journeys/Yamamizuki Ryokan
Dinner #2


The presentation is all. And it tasted good, too. We had a very charming hostess, Norika, serving us this evening, too.
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Cute, aren't they?

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adlmllr Mar 26th, 2025 03:32 AM

the leaves!!!!

shelemm Mar 26th, 2025 09:29 AM

Completely stunning presentation. Now just have to figure out which components can be eaten.....

progol Mar 27th, 2025 06:12 AM

adlmllr - I know, the leaves are beautiful! but the whole presentation, wow!

and shelemm, I didn't know if I should actually eat anything, it was all so beautifully done!!

progol Mar 27th, 2025 06:21 AM

Japan Journey, continued
Yamamizuki morning and on our way to Kumamoto


We left our charming ryokan with a bit of a sadness (though there are only so many kaiseki meals one can eat!) and traveled by bus to Kumamoto. The Aso countryside was so beautiful to see - grab shots through the window don’t do it justice, but I hope it gives you a little bit of the flavor. Lush green fields surrounded by hills (or are they mountains or volcanoes?) and a relaxed feeling to the region.

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Zen morning

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Morning at the ryokan through our window

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Morning light

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And even the breakfasts can be overwhelming!

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Last walk to the onsen

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Family visit


progol Mar 27th, 2025 06:25 AM

Japan Journey, continued...
On our way to Kumamoto

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Leaving Yamamizuki

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On the bus

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On the bus

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mrwunrfl Mar 27th, 2025 06:39 AM

>> bus to Kumamoto
Yes, quite scenic. Many people on the bus?

progol Mar 27th, 2025 06:48 AM


Originally Posted by mrwunrfl (Post 17643051)
>> bus to Kumamoto
Yes, quite scenic. Many people on the bus?

Not empty by any means but not full, either. Maybe half full? TBH, I don't recall how busy it was, but it wasn't a problem to find seats together, so there's that! We dropped off/picked up people at the train station, too.

xyz99 Mar 28th, 2025 04:37 AM

Yamamizuki - what a gorgeous setting!

progol Mar 28th, 2025 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by xyz99 (Post 17643206)
Yamamizuki - what a gorgeous setting!

It is! We’ve been to the Yaramikan ryokan in Hida Onsen, stayed in a ryokan-hotel in Yamanaka in Kaga Onsen, and now, Yarimikan, in Kurokawa Onsen! It gets confusing!

mrwunrfl Mar 28th, 2025 09:47 AM

>> Yarimikan, in Kurokawa Onsen! It gets confusing!
apparently so


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