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-   -   Asian Adventure - 5 weeks in Taiwan and Japan/Oct & Nov 2024 (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/asian-adventure-5-weeks-in-taiwan-and-japan-oct-and-nov-2024-a-1727273/)

progol Mar 22nd, 2025 05:56 AM

Taiwan travels
Kaohsiung Dome of Light

Located at the Formosa Blvd station (Red Line #10), the Instagram-worthy Light Dome is one of the iconic images of Kaohsiung. It’s worthy of a photo though I wouldn’t go out of my way just to see it. I will say it’s more impressive as a photo than seeing it in person! The wide angle gives it punch!
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progol Mar 22nd, 2025 06:00 AM

Taiwan TravelS
Kaohsiung
Liuhe Night Market

After 2 weeks in Taiwan, we couldn’t leave without going to at least one night market! We’re not night people and tend to stay close to our home base for supper, so we haven’t been that motivated to go to one of the many (many!) night markets that Taiwan is known for. But the Liuhe market was perfect - only 2 stops on the MRT and we went early enough before it got too crowded (though Kaohsiung has been quiet enough that I can’t imagine it gets very raucous!).

For our last night in Taiwan, this was the perfect wrap-up! Oh, and the food was pretty good - especially the lightly-grilled oysters at the end!
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tripplanner001 Mar 23rd, 2025 05:50 AM

Appreciate you coming back and sharing more of your travels with you. I wish you and M the best. Hope your surgery is painless and that you recover smoothly and quickly.

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 10:05 AM

tripplanner,
Thanks so much! I'll do my best to get some more posts up before I can't! I have a short window and I'll do my best to get at least some of it done!


progol Mar 23rd, 2025 10:25 AM

Zai Jian Taiwan! Konichiwa Japan!

Taiwan travels, final thoughts...

We loved Taiwan! There are many places I wish we could've gotten to - mostly the central area, which is fairly mountainous with beautiful views and where there are many small tea plantations. Our travels have been changing as we get older, and I've been trying to plan less busy trips with longer stays in fewer places, and limiting car rentals as much as possible. Hence our 4-city itinerary in Taiwan. But our experience of Taiwan was a delight -- warm people, easy travels, fascinating culture. And I'm so glad we went. It was a wonderful surprise since it's not one of the places that we hear that much about.

Japan journey, initial thoughts....
Now, we're off to Japan for our second time...but, this time, to Kyushu, ending in Kyoto. I had really wavered about the itinerary but we ended up having a wonderful time. Kyushu was such a different experience from our trip last year (https://www.fodors.com/community/asi...-trip-1718791/), that it really was like going to a different country. Almost. It, too, was a wonderful exploration, though I admit that I was perhaps a slight bit underwhelmed at the beginning of the trip but, by the end, we loved it, and were glad to have visited a very different part of the country.

Our itinerary to Japan was, as follows:
Fukuoka/Nikko Fukuoka Hotel (3)
Kurakowa Onsen – Yamamizuki Ryokan (2)
Kumamoto – Nikko Kumamoto (2)
Nagasaki – Candeo Hotels Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown (3)
Kagoshima –Daiwa Roynet Tenmonken (2)
Yakushima – Minshu Yakusugi Sar (3)
Kyoto – Hotel Mume (5)





progol Mar 23rd, 2025 10:46 AM

Japan Journey
Leaving Taiwan, arriving in Japan

We flew out of Kaohsiung, a relatively small airport, on Eva Air, arriving in Fukuoka. I had read that it was easy to take a train from the airport to Hakata train station, but at 7pm or so, we just hopped in a cab.

We arrived at our hotel, Nikko Fukuoka Hotel, a decent, business-style hotel, just across the street from Hakata station. I chose it precisely because it was so convenient. The hotel was fine - nothing unique about it, but it was comfortable, the buffet breakfast was more than sufficient, and service was good.

We discovered a number of shopping malls underground and had a casual but wonderful dinner that evening by walking a few steps down! It amazes me to find such good food, as we later did, in Hakata Train station and in department stores, too.

The evening was dedicated to settling into Japan. The big issue was Airalo. I had gotten the regional e-Sim which included Taiwan and Japan. It worked perfectly in Taiwan but it didn't work when we arrived in Japan. After several frustrating hours on the phone with a customer service agent, I ended up giving up with them and playing with the settings until, miraculously, it worked. We've used Airalo on our trips several times, and, up until this time, the set up was fairly simple and it worked well. Once I got it working, it was fine, but I wasn't happy with the poor customer service when I most needed it. But I got it going and it worked for the rest of the trip.

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 10:59 AM

Japan journey!
10/31/24
Dazaifu Tenmangu


We left Taiwan just as a Typhoon Kong-rey hit Taiwan. This was said to be the largest storm to hit island since 1996! We were glad to miss it, though we are hit with a bit of “spillover weather” over the next 2 days in Fukuoka.

The first day, the skies were overcast and we had light rain at times, but mostly it held off. We spent the day with a lovely volunteer guide* Toshiko, who took us to Dazaifu Tenmangu, an important Shinto shrine in Japan and the head of the Tenjin shrines. It was very busy with both tourists and lots of school groups. Toshiko told us that schools arrange outings here before exam time so that students can pray for success in their exams.

We saw families with their young children dressed for the traditional Shinchi-Go-San, a rite of passage for children 3, 5 and 7. This made me smile! It's nice to be back in Japan!
*For those who don't know, Japan has a system of volunteer tour guides, usually retirees, who are interested in sharing their love for their home with visitors. They aren't professionals and their knowledge can vary a lot, but it's a wonderful way to connect up with locals. There are numerous groups that one can contact as the guides must be arranged ahead of time, generally a few weeks to a month or so prior to the day the guide is needed. Once a guide is assigned, we've corresponded and developed a plan that works for us. We've done this now several times, and have really loved the experience. The guides are free but their expenses, such as meals and transportation, need to be paid.

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 11:18 AM

Dazaifu Tenmangu
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This is the Goshingyū Bull (御神牛); the staple guardian in the Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine as well as other Tenmangu shrines around Japan

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Many students are here to pray for good results on their exams

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KarenWoo Mar 23rd, 2025 11:20 AM

Hi Progol,
I am sorry to hear that you were sick in Mexico. I've had intestinal problems while traveling in China, and it was not fun. Any kind of illness while traveling is not fun, indeed. Sorry to hear that you need surgery. Hope it went well.

Thank you for continuing with your trip report. I love the last batch of photos especially the photos of the night market and all the delicious looking food.

I notice you mention that when you arrived in Japan you took a cab to your hotel even though it's supposed to be easy to take the train. We never take public transportation with our luggage! I just can't do it. I need to be pampered a little bit when we arrive somewhere so we've always taken a cab from airports to hotels. :)

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 11:25 AM

Japan Journey/Fukuoka
10/31/24
Yatai, one of Fukuoka’s most known symbols


Yatai are food stalls and are scattered around the city. A center of the stalls are located on Nakasu Island, a small island in the middle of the canal flowing through the city. Lots of food, lots of lines, but lots of fun just being there! There are some stalls that are said to be excellent but we didn't want to wait on the long lines. Even though our food was okay we found the experience to be wonderful!

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progol Mar 23rd, 2025 11:37 AM

Japan Journey
11/1/24
Fukuoka - a very wet and soggy day!


We’ve fortunately escaped the typhoon in Taiwan but the weather in the larger region is definitely wet! We had a cloudy but dry day yesterday but today, the skies did open up. We’re on our second day in Fukuoka, and explored a small part of the Old Town, or Gion. We managed to walk to 2 temples, 1 shrine and a very sweet Folk museum. We had high hopes to see more, but we were drenched and it was time to return to the hotel. Still, it was a surprisingly satisfying walk, experiencing the temples in an almost -mystical way, with the beauty and silence of the rain.

First stop: Jotenji Temple
This is a Zen temple, founded in 1242, and said to be the site where udon and soba noodles were introduced. There’s even a monument to their origins! We arrived as the rain was really picking up (or coming down) and the atmosphere was remarkably peaceful. And the beautiful Zen sand garden was a delight to see.

Second stop: Tochoji Temple, founded in 806! A few steps down the road, we come to one of Japan’s oldest temples. As it’s really pouring now, we step in under the gate and walk over to the temple. Oh, there’s a big Buddha? We’re directed upstairs and come to the most beautiful and serene Buddha. No photos allowed (sorry!) but we are awed by this amazing sight. Truly a spiritual experience. We interact with one of the Buddhist nuns there who had lived in the US and graduated from college many years before. We then walked around the temple to see the beautiful 5-story pagoda.

Next stop: We sloshed our way a short distance more to the sweet Hakata Machiya Folk Museum, where we enjoyed a fascinating film on a local festival, saw an interesting exhibit on Hakata dolls, walked through the machiya, a traditional townhouse that was restored and moved to the current location, and observed a weaver working on a loom.

Finally, a brief stop at Kushida Shrine, the oldest shrine in the city and the guardian shrine of Hakata.

All in all, a wonderful, if very wet, walk, taking us deeper into Japan and the distinct Fukuoka culture.

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 11:50 AM

Jotenji Temple
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You can see the rain here!

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And more rain!

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And even more rain!!

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progol Mar 23rd, 2025 11:53 AM

Tochoji Temple
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progol Mar 23rd, 2025 12:02 PM

Hakata Machiya Folk Museum
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progol Mar 23rd, 2025 12:17 PM

And not to forget, the Kushida Shrine
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We waited for this gentleman to move, but I guess he was happy to get in out of the rain!

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 01:35 PM

Japan Journey
Kurokawa Onsen/Yamamizuki
11/2/24


We took a 2 1/2 hour bus ride from Hakata Station to Kurokawa Onsen, where we are staying in Yamamizuki ryokan, a short distance outside of the town. We were dropped off along the road and met by a driver from the ryokan. A short ride later, we arrived at the ryokan and settled into our beautiful digs.

The ryokan has a lovely rotenboro (outdoor onsen) by a small river and numerous waterfalls. There are also a few indoor pools, too. No photos allowed of the onsen itself, of course. We are all gender-separated since this is public and we’re all sitting in our birthday suits!

This is the second time we’ve been to such a lovely ryokan and I’m charmed once again. After getting ourselves reacquainted with our yukata (I feel like an old hand by now), we’re ready for the main event! After the heat and humidity of Taiwan, it’s a bit of a shock to find a chill in the air, and M and I take off for our respect baths.

First, the bath house, where everyone must first wash and rinse before entering the hot spring. It’s a bit of walk in all my naked glory down the path in the chilly air and I can’t wait to get into the hot spring! And it is hot! I sit for a little while, enjoying the serenity of the outdoors and just amazed at this experience.

And then there is dinner. We’re assigned our private room for our meals and are led there by the young man who attended to us at check in. And the meal - wow. If you’ve never had a kaiseki meal, it’s an experience. And if you have ever had a kaiseki meal, this place was a wonderful experience! Dish after dish, artfully presented, each one more beautiful than the last. It’s really a treat.

progol Mar 23rd, 2025 01:43 PM

Yamamizuki ryokan
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2 paths diverged
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Our lovely room

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M, just as we're about to part ways

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If I remember correctly, both these curtains are for the women's baths. The red curtain is for the female guests of the ryokan; the pink curtain leads the non-guests to the bath house that they are to use.

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The path toward the bath house

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The river beside the hot spring

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Kaiseki dinner - first night

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Our attendant

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tripplanner001 Mar 23rd, 2025 04:14 PM

Sumptuous. Glad your second visit to Japan wound up being worthwhile.

progol Mar 24th, 2025 04:34 AM

Thanks, tripplanner. I only wish we had the energy to make yet another trip to Japan. So much to see in such a small geographical area but it’s rich with beauty and culture. Sigh…who knows? I’d go back in a heartbeat but the travel there is definitely harder on us these days.

I will post more soon!

tripplanner001 Mar 24th, 2025 05:19 AM

I hope you do make it back, perhaps to Tohoku and Hokkaido.


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