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A Pilgrimage to Incredible India
India. The name conjures so many images and thoughts - good, bad, and ugly. Hindu gods and goddesses, the River Ganges, the Taj Mahal, Rajasthani palaces, its many languages and diverse cuisine, the vibrant colors of Holi, abject poverty, the backwaters of Kerala, the world's largest democracy...
For the longest time, we've been drawn to India, first and foremost, as the spiritual homeland of Buddhism, our native religion. We're also fascinated by its rich cultures and traditions, and drawn to its exquisite architecture. Even so, we've been apprehensive about the South Asian country. Concerns about the chaos of the place, poor sanitation, and aggressive hassling - whether real or imagined - has kept us away. Until now. It was late last year when we decided we were going to bite the India bullet. It was now or never, as we were not getting any younger. Will we finally pay our respects to Buddha at the Mahabodhi Temple and walk in his footsteps? Will we see the Taj Mahal for ourselves rather than continue to rely on photographs and videos? Will we enter the many palaces that we've been intrigued about? China aside, India is the big black hole on our travel map. And besides, if we've survived the hassles of Egypt and Morocco, we should do fine in India. Right? Fingers and toes crossed, we hope so. This pilgrimage of sorts to India is anchored by a visit to the state of Bihar in the country's east. BIhar is home to the city of Bodhgaya and the Mahabodhi Temple, where Buddha attained enlightenment. It's also home to the holy cities of Nalanda and Rajgir. While Bihar is a must, it is also out of the way from the other places that pique our interests, which are mostly in the north and west as well as the south. As this is our first trip and perhaps our only visit to India, we could not imagine missing out on the Taj Mahal or the palaces of Rajasthan. Mysuru, Thanjavur, Madurai - these just have to wait. Even Gwalior, Orchha, Bundi, and Patna, we had to eventually drop from our itinerary. Our final itinerary was informed by our interests as well as what was logistically logical, as we didn't want to spend countless hours getting from point A to point B and overnight trains were out of the question. So for our three weeks, we settled on a trip of the north, beginning in Delhi and ending in Mumbai, given the availability of international flights. From Delhi, we will fly to Bodhgaya and then travel by train to Varanasi, a city as old as time. After Varanasi, we will fly back to Delhi, from where we will travel to Agra, Jaipur, and Udaipur, before finishing our journey in Mumbai. Namaste. Come join us. |
This is super exciting and mysterious. It will be fascinating to see where you wind up. Good to know you go with your eyes wide open.
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Here for the journey, and looking forward to more! This is very timely, as we are starting to plan for a somewhat similar trip. I'm especially interested in the timing of your trip, as we're debating that now -- late 2025 or wait until early in 2026 (February or so).
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I think you will thoroughly enjoy it! I just returned from spending 3 weeks in India and rate the trip as one of my top trips.
Looking forward to traveling along with you!! |
tripplanner,
I can’t wait to follow you! We absolutely loved our trips to India, particularly to Rajasthan and the other cities you mention. Varanasi is one of the most intense places we’ve ever visited but it’s an incredible place to experience. It’s hard for me to believe it’s been 11 years since it’s still so vivid in my mind. I wish you a great trip and look forward to following you! |
To all my friends here on Fodor's, it's good to see you as I've been preoccupied with work over the past several months and have not had much of a chance to come say hello.
shelemm, keeping an open mind for sure. My closest basis for comparison is Sri Lanka, which some have referred to as India-lite. ms_go, temperatures are pleasant, with a high of 80 and a low of 68 with moderate humidity. Temperatures are expected to be stable and consistent for the duration of our trip. While we would have preferred no smog, and from what others have told us, it's the worst it's been all year, it didn't set us back today. patandhank, that's awesome. Where in India did you go? progol, how are you and M doing? Are you in Asia now too? First Impressions of India We travelled to Delhi via London on British Airways, leaving on Friday evening U.S. East Coast time and arriving in the Indian capital at 1:00 AM on Sunday. The journey was uneventful but familiar, as the late-evening flight from DC to Heathrow has become our go-to onur trips heading east. Indira Gandhi International in Delhi is modern, clean, and efficient. It took about 15 to 20 minutes for us to get from the gate to the parking garage where our hotel driver was waiting us. The airport staff were polite and welcoming. Entry was straightforward as we secured our e-visas in advance. Score one for India. Walking outside of the airport, we were greeted by the infamous haze that has engulfed Delhi for days. Visibility was low and the air smelled of smoke and burning wood. We followed weather reports for the past couple of weeks and were aware of the intense pollution that is gripping the capital and its surrounding region. On a couple of days before our arrival, the Air Quality Level reached 500 and 600 when less than 100 is considered normal. We had some concerns about the pollution before coming to Delhi, but arrived pleasantly surprised that we weren't too bothered by it. The smoke was no worse than what we experienced in the northeastern United States last summer when we were impacted by wildfires from Canada. The streets of Delhi are wide, well-paved, clean, and flanked by trees and other greenscapes on both sides. The ride to our hotel was smooth but punctuated by episodes of fast and furious Indian driving that we've only read about. Our hotel, The Imperial, is located on the Janpath in the heart of New Delhi, near Connaught Place and the city's government district. The hotel is a classic icon, stately and elegant. A modern palace would be an appropriate descriptor. Definitely a very fine oasis to call home over the next few days. Perhaps India won't be so bad after all. Imperial Delhi We spent our first day in the Indian capital exploring the area known as New Delhi. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens to serve as the new capital of British India in the early 20th century, New Delhi features wide boulevards, neat manicured lawns, and stately monuments and memorials. Luytens' New Delhi had similarities to other planned capital cities around the world such as Washington, DC, and Canberra, although we could just as well been in Buckingham in London or Haussmann's Paris too. From The Imperial, we strolled down the Janpath to the central horizontal axis of Kartavya Path. At the intersection, we were greeted with a faint outline of the India Gate in the distance through the intense smog and walked towards it. The red sandstone gate erected to commemorate Indian and British soldiers resembled the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. We also visited the nearby National War Memorial with its eternal flame. Both were set in gardens with plenty of trees and grassy spaces. From the India Gate, we returned east along Kartavya Path with its canals on both sides. People, mostly Indians, were out and about, strolling along the pathways, sitting on the lawn, and enjoying themselves. Monkeys were also about, playing among themselves; several of them carried young. We then spent a couple of hours at the National Museum, enjoying artifacts from Harappa and Mohenjo Daro but especially admiring the myriad Buddhist iconography. There are also exhibits on miniature paintings, Persian-style, tribal cultures, coinage, jewelry, and musical instruments. Behind the National Museum is a good collection of Buddhist art as well. Definitely worth some time while in New Delhi. Returning to Kartavya Path, we walked towards the President's Office. There was heavy security presence here as well as around the National Parliament. While we were able to be much closer to Parliament, the security perimeter for the President's Office made it impossible. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around temples of worship not to far from these two centers of political power. We visited two Catholic cathedrals, two Sikh temples, one Buddhist temples, and two Hindu temples, all within close proximity to one another. Our two favorites were Gundwara Bangla Sahib, with its carnival-like atmosphere filled with Sikh worshippers young and old, and Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a magnificent architectural ode to Hindudom filled with statues of various gods and goddresses such as Shiva and Ganesh. As day faded to night, we walked over Connaught Place for some coffee and shopping. Just off Connaught Place was Janpath Market, with its cheap goods for sale similar to what we would see all over Southeast Asia. Dinner tonight was a variety of very tasty Indian and Southeast Asian dishes at Spice Route, one of the city's finest restaurants and also happens to be located within our hotel. We intentionally close New Delhi for our first day in India, knowing that the well-planned, well-kept, and easy-to-navigate capital district would help ease us into the country - and we were glad we did. In spite of some of the hassles that preyed on us at various times of day (think those pesky tuk-tuk drivers with the all-too-familiar such-and-such place is closed today), the visit was rather pleasant. So far, India is exceeding our expectations. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76f985cf24.jpg India Gate on the horizon https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa6ae419ff.jpg India Gate up close https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e409e2f2e6.jpg National War Memorial https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa41d59982.jpg Statue of Indian political and military figure Subhas Chandra Bose https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca8af75d89.jpg Monkeys at play https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bce413c2e6.jpg Hindu iconography at the entrance of the National Museum https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49e06b7922.jpg Hindu iconography https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef130757b8.jpg President's Office in the distance with Secretariat buildings in the foreground https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc43d2fa49.jpg Cathedral Church of the Redemption https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24a5869dc1.jpg Gurudwara Bangla Sahib https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3bc095a71b.jpg Lakshmi Narayan Temple https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ab3631936.jpg Shopping Arcade at Connaught Place |
Mughal Delhi
Much of northern India was ruled by the Mughals, who came to the subcontinent from Persia, from the 16th to the 19th centuries. The most visible part of its legacy in India, at least to us visitors, is the Persian-inspired architectural marvels that dot the Indian landscape today, the most famous of which being the Taj Mahal. Mughal architecture can be found throughout Delhi. Our itinerary today is focused on Mughal monuments. We began our second day with a visit to Qutub Minar, a religious complex that predates the Mughal Empire but influenced Mughal designs later on. Qutub Minar is located on the far south side of Delhi, which we accessed by a combination of the city's Metro system (more on this later) and on foot. Qutub Minar is the name of the tallest brick minaret in Delhi, constructed in the 12th century. The minaret is richly decorated with Arabic calligraphy and other geographic ornamentations. On the site are the remains of a large mosque and several tombs of important religious and political figures at the time. The tombs, with its large domes, octagonal shape, windows, and calligraphy and geometric ornamentations, very much resemble what we saw in Egypt and in Uzbekistan. We very much enjoyed wandering among the complex. From there we walked over to nearby Mehrauli Archaeological Park, home to several monuments and ruins from the same time period. The site is relatively new, only restored and opened to the public in recent years. While the ruins at Mehrauli Archaeological Park were not as impressive as the Qutub complex, it was a joy to visit. Much of what is archaeological significant sits in the middle of a forest-like part and there is a lot that continues to be excavated. Pretending we were archaeologists, we wandered among the key sites, which consisted of the Jamali Kamali Mosque near the entrance, a couple of ruins that were converted to a guesthouse and a boathouse by a British officer Thomas Metcalfe, tombs that resemble those at Qutub, a gorgeous well, and the remains of a horse stable. We then returned to the nearby metro station, and continued onto Haus Khas and Dili Haat, for some shopping and refreshments. We searched for what we thought was the Haus Khas Market, but could not find anything more than a few fruit vendors on one of the streets and gave up. Dili Haat is set up by the Delhi Tourism office for souvenir vendors to sell the usual tourist wares; we didn't find anything worth purchasing, but still enjoyed doing some browsing. We spent a good part of the afternoon at Huyamun's Tomb, the final resting place of a Mughal ruler, Huyamun, as well as countless others. Huyamun's Tomb was humming with visitors when we were there roughly between 2:30 and 4:30, mostly Indians but we saw more Westerners here than anywhere else so far. A precursor to the Taj Mahal, Huyamun's Tomb is a showcase of Islamic architecture with its geometric shapes and symmetrical building design. The main building is set on a large platform and surrounded by what was once an elaborate web of canals giving life to the gardens on which the tomb is set. While busy and crowded on the main approach to the tomb and inside, it was easy to get lost and enjoy the views in the vast site away from the crowds. From there we went over to Lodi Gardens, also home to several monuments from the Mughal era and a popular spot for locals. The largest of these monuments is the Bara Gumbad and the Shisha Gumbad, which house a mosque, tombs, and perhaps other uses. The setting is very beautiful, especially as day turned to night - a wonderful way to end a very busy day. We enjoyed dinner at Indian Accent, a fine restaurant inside The Lodhi. Transportation: We used a combination of the city's extensive Metro system, Uber, and our own two feet for today's sojourns. The Metro system is fairly straightforward and easy to use, as there are usually one or two lines at each station and the direction of the trains is well marked. Initially, it took us a moment to figure out which platforms to go to when transferring trains, but from that point forward, it was smooth sailing. The trains were crowded at times, but no more so than in NYC or in DC; people were polite and there wasn't any pushing or shoving that we witnessed. The stations are spacious, clean, and well staffed, although we didn't love that we needed to be patted down each time we entered and exited a station. The train sets itself resemble train sets we've ridden on all over the world. Fares could be purchased at machines or at an agent booth, and cash and credit cards were both accepted. Our rides ranged from 20 to 40 rupees. Air Quality: The air quality was noticeably worse today than it was yesterday. The fog was more dense, which meant the particles in the air were sitting for longer. We noticed it from the smell, especially early in the morning. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b524a822f5.jpg Qutub Minar https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00ddca0cad.jpg Iron Pillar and Ruins of Mosque, Qutub Minar https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45e23e7015.jpg Boathouse, Mehrauli Archaeological Park https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6dbf86eff3.jpg Tomb, Mehrauli Archaeological Park https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...539ccbda2d.jpg Well, Mehrauli Archaeological Park https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...016060f64f.jpg Humayun's Tomb https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b2fef53bc.jpg Humayun's Tomb https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bafdd9405d.jpg Isa Khan's Tomb https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...268fff1137.jpg Bara Gumbad, Lodi Gardens |
LOL you describe all the places with great details! I’ll have to use your report when doing my pictures!!
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You've managed a lot already! I'm taking notes. Trying to rough out an itinerary is already pretty daunting, and I'm sure I'll only keep adding to the wish list. The haze does seem pretty noticeable. We've seen mention of it this time of year due to burning of fields and are trying to balance that with winter fog, temperatures, etc. We're kind of leaning toward late January/early February (2026) but have not decided on anything at this point.
Enjoy -- and looking forward to much more! |
patandhank, thank you. It's kind of you.
ms_go, if you have questions as you plan, I'm glad to do my best to help answer. Old Delhi Today marks our third full day in Delhi. We began our day at the Red Fort, the center of political power for the Mughal Empire after its capital was relocated from Agra to Delhi. This was also where Indian independence from Great Britain was proclaimed in 1947. We began our visit at Lahore Gate, the massive fortress-like red-ochre entrance screamed "Look at me. I'm big and powerful. Don't mess with me." From there we passed through a covered bazaar lined with silk and jewelry vendors in its heyday and your typical souvenir shops today. On the other side of the covered bazaar is a wide grassy expanse with various structures. Directly ahead is the Elephant Gate followed by the Hall of Public Audiences, a photogenic hall with rows upon rows of scallopped archways and columns with a marble throne where the Mughal emperor received the public sat. Toward the far east of the fort are the private reception and residence, built out of pure white marble with design and ornamentation similar to what appears at the Taj Mahal. This makes sense as much of it was built under the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who also built the temple to love in Agra. We also saw multiple other pavilions, although all from the outside. We spent a couple of relaxing hours touring the sites and strolling the pleasant grounds. The air quality was noticeably better today and we went early enough (9:00) that there were few people around. Across the street is Chandni Chowk, the main thoroughfare in Old Delhi. Along the road are a Jain temple, a Sikh temple, and at least two mosques - religious coexistence at its finest. Along the streets are a hodgepodge of buildings, some classical, most local structures in varying states of decay. The streets are lined with shops of various sorts, mostly selling everyday good. The pedestrianized way is filled with cycle-rickshaws plowing up and down, shutting tourists around the neighborhood. To our surprise, while closer to the images we had in our minds of urban India, Chandni Chowk seemed tamed and somewhat Disneyified. From Chandni Chowk, we wanted into some of myriad lanes and alleyways off to the sides. We wanted down streets selling spices, nuts, saris, Hindu religious offerings, and much more. The narrow passageways were filled with people going about their daily lives. Laborers carried large sacks of goods along the ways, transporting good among the various establishments. Rickshaws and motorbikes weaved its way among the people, incessantly honking its horns. This is India! We finally stumbled upon what we've pictured India to be in our minds. And boy did we love it. There's so much energy to it all. After a couple of hours immersing ourselves in the hustle and bustle of it all, we made our way out of the maze of lanes and alleyways, coming up on the Friday Mosque. A magnificent structure, the Friday Mosque is topped by three huge onion domes and flanked by two minarets. We toured the house of worship and climbed one of the minarets for a close-up of the mosques and the surrounding streets and alleys of Old Delhi. Even in the haze we were able to make our the Red Fort in the distance. From the Mosque we walked to the Metro and headed to the National Gandhi Museum, spending a good hour with the exhibits to India's most famous modern-day hero. We very much enjoyed the well-laid out exhibits detailing the life and work of Mahatma Gandhi, including some of the key moments that we were less familiar about. While we've always been admirers of Gandhi, his political economic philosophy resonated with me even more given politics back home in the United States. After an hour at the museum, we walked over to Raj Ghat, a memorial to Gandhi at the site where he was cremated following his assassination. Dinner tonight was at Shang Palace inside the Shangri-la Hotel. We feasted on Cantonese dim sum as well as several of our favorite Chinese dishes, followed by a nightcap back at our hotel nearby. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cdc5b44351.jpg Lahore Gate, Red Fort https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa596c521d.jpg Covered Bazaar, Red Fort https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...487f5ba125.jpg Hall of Public Audiences, Red Fort https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e5b2ee933.jpg Royal Residence, Red Fort https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e723c0bf9b.jpg Jain Temple and Bird Hospital on Chandni Chowk https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60366fd440.jpg Chandni Chowk Street Scene https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3556f21ae1.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c28f19a0f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b58ad0d6c7.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dac1f198d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...565e9d63a8.jpg Friday Mosque https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...064eca463b.jpg Minaret, Friday Mosque https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0089471b5c.jpg Domes Up Close, Friday Mosque https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...429ed98aea.jpg Gandhi Memorial, Raj Ghat |
Lotus Temple
We spent our final morning in Delhi with a visit to the Lotus Temple. Home of the Baha'i faith, the Lotus Temple is an architectural beauty. The temple is shaped like a lotus flower about to bloom. The exterior is covered in tiles in different shades of white, almost identical to the Sydney Opera House. The spherical shapes reminded us of the Australian icon. We enjoyed visiting the temple and visiting its interpretation center that tells the story of the founder of the Baha'i faith and the religion's tenets, which is the underlying faiths of the world are grounded in like principles and should be celebrated for such. In addition to the Lotus Temple, we paid a visit to the Central Cottage Industries Emporium for some souvenir shopping. The Emporium is a good one-stop shop of arts, crafts, clothing, furniture, and more, set up by the government and offering higher, quality goods at fixed prices. We made our first souvenir purchases of trip at the Emporium, adding to our collection. From there, it was time to leave Delhi. Our time in the Indian capital flew by, and we were reluctant to leave a city that captured our imaginations and exceeded the best of our expectations. Delhi was a fitting introduction to India and put our minds somewhat at ease for the remainder of our journey. Speaking of easing our minds, one of our primary considerations was sanitation. What we found in Delhi was a city full of people willing and eager to take care of the city that they call home. Throughout our time, we saw countless workers cleaning and timing up public spaces, from restrooms to sidewalks. Even spaces that we would expect to have questionable hygiene at home are well taken care of in India. While it may not seem remarkable, it speaks to the regard of the Indian people given the size of its population. In this aspect, we are truly in incredible India. The Land of Enlightenment From Delhi, we travelled by plane to Gaya, in the State of Bihar in the eastern part of the country. Gaya lies next to Bodhgaya, the village from where the Lord Buddha attained enlightenment. The flight from Delhi to Gaya took about 75 minutes, and from there it was 20 minutes by car to Bodhgaya. We checked into our home in Bodhgaya, the Hyatt House, and immediately went to the Mahabodhi Temple for an evening visit and prayers. The Mahabodhi Temple is magnificent, a site to behold. The temple teemed with people - visitors, pilgrims, monks, and other worshippers. Chants of Buddhist prayer echoed within the temple and all around it - creating a carnival of sorts. The one downside - we were assaulted by a number of hasslers at and around the temple and how aggressive they were, not taking us ignoring them and responding with the occasional "no" for an answer. This is among the worst we've experienced anywhere, both within and outside of India. We couldn't believe that something like this would be allowed and tolerated at such holy grounds. Nonetheless, we did our best to tune them out and focus on the reason we were there in the first place, which was to join other visitors in prayer. Thus begins our religious pilgrimage of sorts. In spite of it all, we remain so fortunate to be able to be here. We're as close to our teacher and guide than we can ever be in this lifetime. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0916994e17.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3420f6036c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbbf6fb9a4.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3dc1a8426.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e75d3e336.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...344b68bb59.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2c05adc67.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...789c7cc8c1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ff4e66bdb.jpg |
So glad to know you were able to ease yourself into India. That is a major concern. Sounds like the perfect introduction. And that market looks so bustling and active. You are off to a great start.
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shelemm, thank you. India's treating us quite well so far.
I posted one more installment, but it seems stuck in moderation. I will wait until that post appears before posting the next installment to avoid confusion on sequencing. |
One thing I learned was don’t even respond with a no or no thank you if you don’t want to be bothered. In fact don’t acknowledge them at all and keep walking. I know it’s not what you’re used to, but it does work.
I really enjoyed Chandni Chowk also. It was a lot of fun taking a rickshaw through was a great way to people watch. |
patandhank, yes, that's a good tip. Most times it works, but a few times it doesn't, as the following and speaking next to you as you walk is just as annoying. So far not in India, but there's been a couple of times we've been turned around because of it.
In the Footsteps of the Buddha What a glorious day to wake up in the same village where the Buddha spent a significant part of his life on the path to and eventually attaining enlightenment. We began our day at the holy of holies - the Mahabodhi Temple. We spent about two hours at the temple, praying, listening to different groups of monks chanting in their native languages, people watching, and just being in the spiritual presence of the Buddha. We visited several of the significant places in the life of the Buddha contained within the Mahabodhi complex, and enjoyed the reliefs that told his life and legacy that surround the walls of the temple. The hasslers seem much tamer this morning compared to yesterday evening. There were fewer of them around and the ones that were sprinkled about the complex were much less persistent. The temple was humming with visitors, worshippers, and pilgrims alike, but at a fraction of the volume we experienced yesterday. For Fodorites who may be planning a visit, it is important to know that cell phones or electronics of most types are not allowed into the temple complex. There is a free locker service just outside of the temple for phones and such. The attendant takes your electronics, have you register your name in a book along with the number of items you're leaving behind, and the time you are doing so. You then receive the locker key with the number of the locker that you take with you. Cameras are allowed but require paid tickets for each device - 100 rupees for photo cameras and 300 rupees for handheld video cameras. The security staff is strict about all of this, as we saw both yesterday and today. From there we walked around the village, visiting the many Buddhist temples scattered within the vicinity of the Mahabodhi Temple. We prayed at a couple of Tibetan monasteries, a Vietnamese temple, a Chinese temple, a Bangladeshi monastery, a Thai temple, as well as ones styled from Burma, Bhutan, Japan, and Mongolia. It's an United Nations of sorts, with every country in the Buddhist world represented by a temple modeled after the home country's temples but in Bodhgaya. Our favorites were the Tibetan monasteries with its massive Buddha statues and paintings depicting stories of the life of Buddha, beautiful mandalas, and fine ornamental details. The Thai temple was a highlight too as well as the Bhutanese house of worship. We spent about five hours temple-hopping. We also visited the Archaeological Museum on the main street. The small but worthwhile museum houses a good collection of Buddhist statues and other relics, including originals from Mahabodhi Temple. Besides sightseeing, we walked around the countryside a bit, enjoying scenes of the simple, rural life of the people in Bihar. Imagine rice fields, roaming animals (cow, goat, and chicken), and children playing outside their ramshackle homes. In addition to breakfast at our hotel, we ate lunch at Thai Spice, near the Thai temple. Dinner was at Siam Thai, on the main thoroughfare. We opted for simple dishes at both, given that we're still easing our way to food outside of high-end hotels. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...146fe368ee.jpg Mahabodhi Temple https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8824f0c444.jpg Buddha's Footprint, Mahabodhi Temple https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f51db6ff09.jpg Buddha Statues, Mahabodhi Temple https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d37bf6f93a.jpg Circumnavigating the Temple https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41199197f4.jpg Offerings at the Bodhi Tree https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d54301fdb7.jpg On the Wall on the Mahabodhi https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be2e364e6a.jpg Buddhist Teaching https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef8ab91737.jpg Buddha Shaded by Naga |
Tibetan... Bhutanese... Bengali... that's quite the array coming together all in one spot.
I've heard of Bihari Kebabs (I had some in Queens), but this is the first time for me seeing a Fodorite's photos. Delightful. |
shelemm, indeed. What we found is that Bihar is relatively untouristed except for Indian travelers and folks from Southeast Asia, predominately Vietnam and Thailand.
On the Pilgrimage Trail Today we ventured out of Bodhgaya to visit the ancient towns of Nalanda and Rajgir, important places on the religious pilgrimage circuit for Buddhists. The journey by car (arranged by our hotel) from Bodhgaya to Rajgir took about 90 minutes on a two-lane road. Some parts of the road were busy, especially near towns and villages, while other stretches were relatively quiet. In any case, the road was shared with tuk-tuks, pickup trucks, cows, and the like, which meant movement was slow-going. What was worst was the incessant honking, which made for a somewhat unpleasant ride. Rajgir was formerly known as Rajagriha, translated as City of Kings. This was because Rajgir served as the political capital of several Indian empires. This was also the city where the Buddha among several religious figures lived and preached. For us Buddhists, Rajgir is significant as it was where the Buddha gave us several of his scriptures, including the Lotus Sutra that those like us who follow the Mahayana sect hold near and dear. We visited Vishwa Shanti Stupa Peace Pagoda, built by Japanese following the atomic bomb attacks of the Second World War to promote peace. We prayed at the stupa, listened to the chanting by a group of monks, and walked about the site. While we could have enjoyed some of the hiking trails that could be reached from the temple, it was too hazy for it to be worthwhile. Besides, we were short on time. So we ascended and descended by cable car; the entrance was not easy to find as there was no signage and being surrounded by hasslers did not help. We then visited the nearby Son Bhandar Caves, two caves from a couple of millennia ago that contains reliefs of Jain deities. There's not much left so this was a quick stop. From there we visited the Venu Van, translated as bamboo garden. This was once one of the Buddha's favorite meditation spot. While the park-like setting remains, Venu Van has been converted to a botanical garden. We spent about an hour strolling the grounds, contemplating how we may be treading on the same grounds that our Buddha tread more than 2,500 years ago. We then moved on to Nalanda University, founded by a follower of Buddha's teachings in the 5th century. The university waa considered one of the epicenters of scholarship throughout the Buddhist world. The university functioned until thr 13th century, when the university went into permanent decline. On the grounds today are massive brick ruins of the former temples and monasteries that sit on its grounds. At temple number 3, one can clearly see some of the art left over from centuries ago - images of the Buddha and bodhissattvas still adorn some of the buildings exteriors. Most of it, though, is unfortunately gone. From Nalanda we were driven back to Bodhgaya, in what was a long and fairly uncomfortable two-and-a-half hour ride. Who knew traffic jams are a thing in rural Bihar? Did we obtain enlightenment? No. Perhaps it's the hasslers. Probably not. But we do consider our spiritual lives richer for having visited this sacred corner of the world. Our journey across India continues to Varanasi. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0853cfe51b.jpg Vishwa Shanti Stupa https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24cf72cda9.jpg Buddha Statue, Vishwa Shanti Stupa https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c869d48b4.jpg Jain Relief, Son Bhandar https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...daefdf57b1.jpg Buddha Statue, Venu Van https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2d5a1929f.jpg Buddha Statue, Venu Van https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...538dea804f.jpg Nalanda University Ruins https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b346ca91d0.jpg Nalanda University Ruins https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb9038dc7c.jpg Nalanda University Ruins |
Varanasi - another highlight I enjoyed. Looking forward to your thoughts on what you see while there.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c9fadbdc.jpeg |
This morning we traveled to Gaya to catch our train for Varanasi. The train station was pure chaos. There were no signage anywhere. We had to ask several people to learn that we could travel with e-confirmation. We asked several people before we could obtain information on which track our train was leaving from. Once on board, we had to rely on fellow passengers to find our seats as there was assigned seating on the train but we were never provided with seat number. The chaos carried on throughout the ride - with passengers moving about the car and switching seats, folks standing up at various point, loud chatter... The journey from Gaya to Varanasi took three hours.
Once we arrived at the train station, we were transport by car to Namo Ghat for a cruise along the River Ganges to our hotel. The 20-minute ride was an excellent introduction to Varanasi. We took the afternoon slowly, relaxing at our hotel the Brijrama Palace. We enjoyed high tea followed by a visit to Assi Ghat for the evening aarti ceremony. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b6acb106a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08626c52a2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36b08d19c2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb8cc91180.jpg |
Can you experience claustrophobia and agoraphobia at the same time? What a scene! Awesome in the true sense of the word. Is that last photo taken from a boat?
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shelemm; yes indeed, at least in India. Yes, the picture of the evening aarti is from a boat.
The Holy City Varanasi, also known as Benares, is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It is located on the banks of the Ganges River, considered sacred by Hindus. As such, so many religious rituals take place next to or on the river. We spent most of our time today strolling its many waterfront ghats, admiring its architecture and catching a glimpse of life on the river. People bathe in the river. Clothes were washed there. Locals prayed at the river. People took their dead to be cremated by the river. Varanasi was truly an assault on the senses, in ways good, bad, and ugly. We've not visited a place more chaotic. We've not visited a place where all of life seems to be on public display. That, coupled with the incessant traffic of its streets and alleyways, got overwhelming and very tiresome. At the same time, there were some feelings of exhilaration. We also viewed two aarti ceremonies on land today. We saw the sunrise aarti at Assi Ghat and had near front-row access to the sunset ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Both were beautiful and much better seen on land than from the water. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...436909c873.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc647c542c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06841f682f.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2792033714.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65d72ac357.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e8f9a9545.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8bf19611f2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a20b882804.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dad096dd1.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bbb8c8537.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...404c4c8236.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0088261b6d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...504ca40501.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45639854d3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ae1401da6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5cb7c2398.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f8475ba79.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74d50328a1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8150602cd4.jpg |
tripplanner,
Isn’t India amazing and unlike any other place? Looking at your photos and reading your report brings back so many memories- our first trip, especially, was overwhelming and fascinating. I’m shocked by the level of the smog in Delhi! While it is notorious for the air pollution, your photos are startling in the level of smog. But I understand that this was an unusual occurrence. I’m also amazed that you’re traveling throughout on your own! And you did manage to do and see so much! We worked with a local company and had a driver take us around everywhere, from Delhi onwards. So I’m awed that you felt comfortable exploring Delhi and elsewhere on your own. Not so much because of the touts or even for safety, but it’s one of the most chaotic places we’ve ever been and having the driver and guide (the latter, at times) certainly smoothed things for us, perhaps sometimes a little too much, but for the most part, we found it very helpful. And there were times when I, as a female, would’ve been immensely uncomfortable without the protection of a guide and/or driver. I’m loving your experiences, though. Varanasi was one of the most intense of places and remarkable to be there and experience it. I loved it and you capture it well. I loved reading about your journey to Bodh Gaya. It sounds like an incredible experience but I loved how you describe it as a Buddhist United Nations. While we didn’t go to Bodh Gaya, we did appreciate the visit to Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. I imagine you’ll be going there, too. And you asked if we’re in Asia. We’ve only just returned from an amazing 5 weeks in Taiwan and Japan and are now trying to adjust to the jet lag after a too-long trip via Turkish Airlines! Fortunately, we survived without getting sick - until we came home. My brain and body are still neither here nor there! Looking forward to more - India was one of our favorite trips and this is a pleasure to read! |
This is one excellent trip report. I’m happy to follow it and thank you for all the details.
As for the pollution friends of ours just got back from India yesterday and they did say it was really bad. At one point they were sleeping with masks on in Delhi because the pollution was that bad. unfortunately, people hassling you in places where you don’t expect it is not uncommon. We once went to Pushkar and were greeted by a so called “religious” student who offered to give us a tour and didn’t want any money. Then when he finished, he began hassling us for money. It happens everywhere I guess. Wonderful trip report and I will follow |
progol, you are right that India is definitely different from any other place we've visited. We have experienced juxtapositions of emotions on this visit each and every day. Overwhelming and fascinating are two good ways to describe this place. It's both beautiful and dirty. It's both mesmerizing and disorienting. The people are both warm and hospitable and cold and condescending (what I am referring to is the long stares that we get from locals, whether it's standing in line to purchase admission tickets, waiting for the train at the station, or enjoying coffee or tea at a shop, to name a few). There's no other place we visited where the contrasts can be so stark, sometimes within feet and seconds of each other.
The smog is supposed to be its most intense this season. I don't know about other seasons. On the first couple of mornings in Delhi, the smell was noticeable, but not so much anymore. We know it's there both from the visibility and from the black residue from our noses when we do our COVID swabs every 2 to 3 days. We're doing quite a bit of this trip on our own per usual, but have hired drivers where distances make it tough to do so. So far the healthy mix is working out well for us. So glad you had a good time in Taiwan and Japan; cannot wait to hear more about it. In the meantime, hope you recover soon. jacketwatch, thank you for following along and commenting. Sarnath Today we visit Sarnath, the site where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. We traveled by boat from our hotel and then by car to reach Sarnath, about an hour-an-a-half journey given the intense traffic leaving Varanasi. At Sarnath, we visited the archaeological site and the museum. The site is quite small, with mostly remains of what were monasteries. The largest surviving structure is the Dhamekh Stupa, which includes some of the original carvings. The archaeological museum contains several statues of Buddha, bodhisattvas, as well as Hindu deities. After the visit, it was back to our hotel, making for a much shorter excursion than we expected. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in our hotel, not bad considering that we're now on day 11 of our trip and this is our down time. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2770e4c42c.jpg Dhamekh Stupa https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3692b4e833.jpg Monastery Ruins https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6584510717.jpg Ashokan Pillar https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d42a22d50.jpg Ashokan Capital https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8ce94db28.jpg Life of Buddha in Stone https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...970a8f0805.jpg One of Many Buddha Statues |
Yes, those Varanasi traffic jams…
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8524c369e.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41c05e328.jpeg and HOW did it get there! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e572da3b.jpeg (I hope you don’t mind my sharing a few pix) |
progol, of course not. The more the merrier. And it's interesting to see the similarities and differences of what we capture.
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A Slow Journey Across the Subcontinent
Today was a long transit day. We left our hotel at 5 in the morning and travelled by boat and by car to the airport in Varanasi. Our flight, originally scheduled 6:40 AM, was delayed by close two and a half hours. Airport procedures were quick and efficient even though there was a good number of passengers there. Our flight was then delayed by another 30 minutes and then 30 again. Seems typical this time of year, as northern India frequently gets blanketed with morning fog. Our plane finally departed Varanasi well past 10:00 AM. We landed in Delhi at 11:50 AM, and were greeted by our driver from Indian Panorama (We are using Indian Panorama from this point of our journey until we get to Mumbai. Thank you to progol once again for your recommendation.). From Delhi it was 4 hours by car to Agra. Unfortunately, there are no quicker options between Varanasi to Agra due to the limited number of flights to Agra. None of the connecting flights available would have put us in Agra on the same day. We considered the high-speed train from Delhi, but by the time we get from the airport to the train station with time factored in for traffic and flight delays, it wouldn't have made a difference. We reached Agra and our home for the next two nights, the magnificent Oberoi Amarvilas, at 4:30 PM. From the moment we stepped foot on hotel grounds, we were awed by the beautiful architecture and landscape. And the minute we stepped foot in the lobby, we caught our very first glimpse of the Taj Mahal outside the window. The check-in attendant walked us to the balcony to properly enjoy the views of the gleaming white monument, where we enjoyed fresh towels and a cool welcome drink. We were then led to our rooms from where we completed our formalities. As you could probably tell, we forgot that we were tired after a very long travel day, and became fully immersed in where we are. We were truly living in the moment. How lucky are we to be able to have this moment (even it took a good bit of work and savings). We also enjoyed a very good dinner at Bellevue, one of the hotel's restaurants. It's one of the best we've had on this trip. A Full Day in Agra Today was our one and only full day in Agra. We set out alarm clocks to a quarter to five this morning, so that we can visit the Taj Mahal as soon as it opens. Once we arrived at our lobby, the hotel staff provided us with water and shoe covers for the mausoleum, and shuttled us to the entrance of the Taj Mahal via golf carts. We were at the entrance about 15 or 20 minutes before opening time, along with perhaps 150 to 200 others. The line grew as each minute progressed towards opening time. We lined up at the east entrance, the one closest to our hotel; the same scenes played out at the west and south entrances. Once the doors were open it was quick to get through, in spite of the number of people. We first reached the magnificent red-sandstone gateway. Passing through it, the white-marble Taj Mahal came into view. While we had really hoped for the "pinch me" moment, it was far from it. The crush of tourists, including several rude ones who were pushing and shoving their way through, to the incessant touts, made it hard to enjoy. Once we moved further down the center path, it became more manageable and more enjoyable. It was only until we reached the base of the mausoleum itself when we were able to tune out the world around us and truly admire the monument among ourselves. We enjoyed viewing the monument from several vantage points, including against an ever changing sky as the sun rose higher and higher. We also surveyed the exterior of the mosque next to the Taj Mahal. From there we continued into the mausoleum itself, paid our respects to Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz. Inside we paid attention to the fine details of marble carvings, mostly of flowers, geometric patterns, and Islamic ornamentation that was familiar to us from our travels through other parts of the Islamic world. After about 2.5 hours at the Taj Mahal, we returned to our hotel for breakfast followed by the rest of our day. Our next stop was Agra Fort, one of the seats of power during Mughal times. As Agra Fort was as popular as the Taj Mahal, there were both crowds and touts. We again had to ignore them a few times but we explored what piqued our interest. Similar to the Red Fort in Delhi, the fort consists of a private area and a public area. Starting in the private area, we wandered through the many rooms, corridors, and courtyards that make up the complex, passing from red-sandstone from an earlier style (similar to the Red Fort in Delhi) to Shah Jahan's white marble similar to what we saw at the Taj Mahal. Our preference was for the white marbled buildings, with favorites including the Hall for Public Audiences, the Hall of Mirrors (viewed through a locked gate), and the Muthamman Burj. There are good views of the Taj Mahal in the distance in several spots inside the fort. Next up was the Itimad-ud-Daulah, more commonly known as the Baby Taj. Built a couple of generations earlier, we immediately saw the comparison. The Baby Taj was a pleasant stop, if for no other reason than we were able to enjoy it in relative peace. From there we drove about 40 minutes to Sikandra, just outside Agra, to visit Akbar's Mausoleum, another grand structure. The entry gate, built of red sandstone inlaid with white marble and topped with four long, slender marble minarets, was exquisite. The main mausoleum itself was one befitting an emperor in that it made a commanding statement. The entrance to the main tomb, though partly covered in scaffolding, still revealed the architectural details one would expect from a Persian-style building of significance, but with more colors. The entrance courtyard leads directly to the tomb down a shaft similar to some of the ones we saw in the Valley of the Kings and Queens, in Luxor, Egypt. All of it was barren although we didn't know if it was how it always was, or perhaps it's because it's in the process of being restored. From Sikandra, it was back to Agra for a short stroll of the Mehtab Bagh, gardens dating back to Shah Jahan times. The gardens were pleasant for a late-afternoon stroll, although the main reason to visit was for its views of the Taj Mahal. We snapped a few photos before returning to our hotel for what we think was the best view of all of the Taj Mahal, in comfort with a choice beverage among people we want to be with, but best of all nobody trying to talk your ear off. Dinner tonight was at Esphahan at our hotel. We enjoyed a mix of classical Mughal dishes, including a couple of recreations what was believed to be enjoyed by the emperors at the time. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3d82d790a.jpg View of Taj Mahal from Our Hotel Room https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...247291a9d4.jpg Taj Mahal Entrance Gate https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c84c8f620.jpg Taj Mahal Before Emerging from the Portal https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0954d5377.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a441a95f6.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a7be172b3.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16f513d585.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e9dae1015.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8030a7932.jpg |
Agra Fort
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b41f5fbce2.jpg
Itimad-ud-Daulah, i.e. Baby Taj https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c2e8db0be.jpg Akbar's Mausoleum https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea5ef01628.jpg Courtyard, Akbar's Mausoleum https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8ba836b77.jpg Entrance Gate, Akbar's Mausoleum https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b7b6845b0.jpg From Mehtab Bagh |
This is an a fabulous report, both writing and photography.
This paragraph is exactly how I remember India, and you use the same words I have when describing it, contrasts, extremes, beautiful and ugly all at once.
Originally Posted by tripplanner001
(Post 17614267)
... We have experienced juxtapositions of emotions on this visit each and every day. Overwhelming and fascinating are two good ways to describe this place. It's both beautiful and dirty. It's both mesmerizing and disorienting. The people are both warm and hospitable and cold and condescending ... There's no other place we visited where the contrasts can be so stark, sometimes within feet and seconds of each other.
We were there in 1977 for about 6 weeks, mostly in Rajahstan but also Delhi and Agra (of course), and your pictures and descriptions are bringing back strong memories of our time there. Some of your photos are weirdly similar to mine, at least in my mind. Somehow we lugged a 3x5' Tibetan carpet from Nepal around in a duffel bag. Now I wonder how the heck we did that. The carpet still hangs on a wall in our house. Bummer about the smog. Thanks for posting! |
Just catching up after a week away. Love the detail and the photos! We are on the fence about Varanasi -- not because of the intensity but because we'll likely be limited to about two weeks or just over. It seems like there are some logistics getting there and back, and the time might be better spent broadening our experience in Rajasthan without extra flights, etc. TBD, though. Looking forward to more!
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TP, this is a great TR - not every day that we all get to read about someone's voyage to Bihar!
My fave foto was your 'flowers atop Buddha's Footprint.' Nelson nailed it with his highlighted chosen paragraph. That writing was outstanding in the truest sense of the word. Well-done! We live right beside Toronto's Little India and it just doesn't compare with the real subcontinent. Ms_Go, maybe consider Bundi, Jodhpur and also Jaiselmer? The latter two include outstanding daytrip possibilities to 'deep village India' on their outskirts. I am done. The cobra |
Nelson, thank you. I expect that in place like in India, some things don't change much and if it does it's at a glacial pace.
ms_go, whether or not it makes sense to include Varanasi will depend on what the other stops on your itinerary are and how much "out of the way" it is. For us, it was in the vicinity of Bodhgaya, which we were going to visit regardless. Whatever you choose, there will be plenty to drop. Even within the geographic range of our itinerary, we dropped close to a dozen other places. zebec, I understand how the immigrant communities in the West are not the same as the homeland. There are some aspects of it, but it is also infused and integrated with the host country's cultures, creating a new hybrid culture. Photos from Agra Fort Somehow the photos I uploaded from Agra Fort did not post. Here it is. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e992843170.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63a9050039.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66497da9c3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ad38a1925.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c9861dee1.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a85b6f179b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b2d50f3a7.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e603b4ad88.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...330a09cba4.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7485e2625.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5323167c2a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2deb03b945.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b82ec81627.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b326a5385.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ac6147611.jpg |
Lesson learned: Even in the smog, the Taj looks like a beautiful dream. Maybe more so. Is it even real? It looks like a fantasy.
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shelemm, I don't have a basis for comparison as this was the only time I've seen the Taj but I do agree that the smog does not diminish the view. In fact, one of my favorite photos of the Golden Gate Bridge that I have hanging up at home is with fog obscuring some of the top. It gives it a softer, and as you said, dreamier, quality.
Fatehpur Sikri and Abhaneri Village After an all-too-short stay, we reluctantly departed the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas bound for Rajasthan and the next stop on our itinerary, Jaipur. On the way, we visited Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's capital city. The political center of Akbar's India was stately, yet grand. Laid out in a series of interconnecting courtyards, we entered the first courtyard housing nothing other than the Hall of Public Audiences. From there we stepped into the second courtyard, known as the Pachisi Courtyard. Immediately in front of us was the beautiful Hall of Private Audiences but once we looked around the corner to the left, the view of the vast plaza punctured by multiple buildings including the cannot-miss Panch Mahal came into view - boy, did Akbar achieve his wow factor. We first explored the Hall of Private Audiences and then moved on to the Treasury, a pavilion built for Akbar's Turkish wife, an ornamental pool, and the Panch Mahal itself, at times on our own and at times with one of the small tour groups from France that we exchanged pleasantries with and started chatting. We moved on to a small third courtyard followed by the courtyard that surrounds the Palace of Jodh Bai. After wandering around here we exiting the complex and made our way to the Friday Mosque, from where we visited a shrine, a memorial, and the large place of worship. We spent about two hours at the site. Tourists are unable to arrive at Fatehpur Sikri independent. Instead we had to take a bus or golf cart from the parking lot to the site entrance and back; as this is India, it meant another opportunity to harass tourists, sometime we've been trying to avoid as much as possible. Leaving Fatehpur Sikri, we made a rest stop about one hour into the journey. Even though we didn't need it, it allowed time for our driver to take his lunch and just step away from the wheel in general. We then requested our driver stop in Abhaneri village so that we could see the Chand Baori Stepwell. It was constructed in the 8th or 9th century by King Chandra, a local Hindu ruler. At 100 feet deep, it is one of the deepest of its kind in India, as well as one of the largest. A total of 13 stories of steps zigzag its way to the bottom of the well, creating an incredibly beautiful geometric pattern out of what would otherwise be just another piece of utility infrastructure. We walked around the stepwell and took multiple photographs. Next to the stepwell is Hershat Mata Temple, a Hindu house of worship built by King Chandra around the same time as the stepwell. The doubled-domed temple houses a statue of Shiva and intricate carved Hindu figures and designs all around its facade. From there it was another two hours to Jaipur. Our home in Jaipur is the Raj Palace, located close to the old city. The home of the former maharaja of Jaipur built to oversee the construction of his new city more than 300 years ago, the Raj Palace is now covered into a heritage hotel. It's like we're staying in a museum. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2350ed519b.jpg Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...228222ab42.jpg Ornamentation inside Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2daacc202.jpg Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a08f063b76.jpg Ornamental Pool, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...beced37b18.jpg Panch Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d5a5ed0b0.jpg Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0866adeef5.jpg Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63786c7b82.jpg Friday Mosque Entrance, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...998f2bd21f.jpg Inside Friday Mosque, Fatehpur Sikri https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...512a9a2da3.jpg Chand Baori Stepwell https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1cc11581a6.jpg Chand Baori Stepwell https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a80cfecf2d.jpg Chand Baori Stepwell https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f86b952436.jpg Chand Baori Stepwell https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f49bc8b80.jpg Hershat Mata Temple https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59ec04a06b.jpg Detail on Perimeter Wall Surrounding Hershat Mata Temple |
The Pink City
We awoke to our first smogless blue sky day of our trip - perfect for pounding the city pavement. We're in the city of Jaipur, the capital of the State of Rajasthan, the land of the famous maharajas. Jaipur is nicknamed the Pink City for the color of its buildings. Beginning at the New Gate, we used a suggested walking tour in the Lonely Planet's guide to India as the foundation for our explorations around Jaipur. As we began at 9:00 AM, much of the city, especially the shopkeepers and shoppers, have yet come to life. We wandered along Bapu Bazaar, a covered shopping arcade known for shops selling fabrics and shoes, and Johari Bazaar, selling the same as well as jewelry. We popped our heads into the one or two shops that were opened and made some early morning purchases. We also browsed LMB for Rajasthani sweets and purchased some to enjoy with coffee. Walking tours are so much fun. Our first blockbuster attraction of the day was the Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of the Winds. We admired it from the sidewalk opposite the palace, took some photographs, and then toured the five-story complex. Hawa Mahal was a delight to explore, with its nooks and crannies, beautiful stained glass windows, windows looking onto the street action below, and fine ornamentation on its facade. We climbed to the rooftop for spectacular views of nearby landmarks such as Jantar Mantar and the City Palace, as well as forts occupying commanding positions on strategic hilltops around the city. Hawa Mahal was hands down our favorite stop of the day and possibly of this trip thus far. We took our energies to our next attraction not too far away, Jantar Mantar, an 18th century astronomical observatory. The outdoor park is scattered with sundials, astrolabes, and other sky-searching and measuring instruments. Next door to the observatory is the City Palace, home of the maharaja of Jaipur to this day. We visited the palace including the courtyard with its four ornate doors (the one with five peacocks is the most famous), several gorgeous pavilions, and museums. We surveyed the city from a minaret along Tripolia Bazaar. We then continued our walking tour along the various shopping arcades and alleyways, and viewed a couple more ornamental gates circling the old city. We ended our walking tour at the Albert Hall Museum just outside of the old city walls; the museum is more building than exhibits but this was fine with us as we weren't looking for something extensive. We wrapped up our way at a Starbucks near the Rambagh area of town. At different points along the trip, we just had a craving for our Seattle favorite, not just for its beverages but we always find an unique pastry or sweet to sample that is unavailable back home in the States. For dinner, we stayed in the Rambagh area. Bar Palladio is an Italian joint serving several of our favorites. What a spectacular day it's been. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...268a654c36.jpg New Gate https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5202545d8c.jpg Sanganeri Gate https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb8f853eb6.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f653c04799.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1efb78eda.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acde7f5b10.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...609294b37a.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...956fa011f8.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88f5b26b2e.jpg Hawa Mahal https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98e041eadf.jpg Jantar Mantar https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c64d8b88f2.jpg Jantar Mantar https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f9fcfa2d6.jpg Jantar Mantar https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b703aa31c2.jpg City Palace https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa234f4519.jpg City Palace https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f11bd2cf2e.jpg City Palace https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56c3cbb582.jpg City Palace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ff7481702.jpg City Palace https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0689228e9e.jpg City Palace https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc47d6cf1c.jpg City Palace https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04e68f8e4f.jpg Ajmer Gate https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7fae0f3bc.jpg Albert Hall Museum |
Forts and Palaces
Today on our agenda are some of the many forts and palaces that surround the City of Jaipur, chief among which is Amber Fort. The cream-colored palace set on the hills to the north of the city was our first stop of the day. Our driver took us to the base of the fort, from where we made our way up on foot. Other options included jeep and elephant. The ascent, on a series of staircases, took less than ten minutes. Entering the Sun Gate, we came into a vast courtyard, with most of the complex to our left. We climbed the steps to the fortress itself, visited the Hall for Public Audiences, and explored Man Singh Palace itself. Most of the palace itself is empty today, but some paintings and decorations survive. The most beautiful part of the palace is one of the interior courtyards with landscaped gardens and a gem-and-mirror studded pavilion overlooking it. It took us about two hours to explore the fort including time for coffee in one of the open spaces in the fort. From the fort we visited a nearby stepwell. While smaller than Chand Baori, it was still nice to see. Across the street from the stepwell is a small Hindu temple with some fine stone carvings. Nahargarh Fort was next. From Amber, we wound our way through the hills, snaking up the side of the mountain until we reached the fort. Nahargarh is spread out with a central palace in the middle and lots of open space all around it. We walked along the fortified walls, enjoying wonderful views of Jaipur from a couple of vantage points, before touring the palace itself. The highlights of the palace were the frescos, still in good condition, and the rooftop. Wandering about the top of the palace, the adorning ornamentation reminded us of the rooftop at Casa Mila in Barcelona. From Nahargarh it was on to nearby Jaigarh Fort. Also situating in the hills above Jaipur and Amber, Jaigarh boasted jaw-dropping views of Amber Fort and the surrounding countryside. Between the two, I preferred the views at Jaigarh. Known as the "victory fort" for battles during the time of the maharajas, Jaigarh hosts a cannon foundry and exhibits cannons and other weapons from a prior area. From Jaigarh, we wound our way back down the hills to the city. We stopped at Kanak Vrindavan Gardens for an afternoon stroll. While small, we very much cherished our time at the gardens. Surrounded by walls on all sides, all the noise and chaos of the outside was drowned out by the pleasant burble of the water fountains throughout the gardens. The well-manicured lawns were very relaxing to sit on. We spent about an hour just sitting there and drinking in the very pretty surroundings. We ended our day with a brief photo stop lakeside for a few snaps of a palace on the water, followed by tea and cookies at our hotel. Dinner tonight was at Swinton House, not too far from Albert Hall Museum. The restaurant is both comfortable and upscale, and serves Indian classics, sushi, and other Asian favorites. We ate very well here. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...833e9d4c02.jpg Amber Fort https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbaece620c.jpg Amber Fort https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9cbee68798.jpg Sun Gate, Amber Fort https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e57f48c25f.jpg Staircase to Palace, Amber Fort https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4618d9f44.jpg Palace Entrance, Amber Fort https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b95a2770ed.jpg Inner Courtyard, Amber Fort https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38704fe8d9.jpg Tower, Nahargarh Fort https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c957f39230.jpg Fortifications, Nahargarh Fort https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d45ad92d28.jpg Fresco, Nahargarh Fort https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e66ddadf7.jpg Rooftops, Nahargarh Fort https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acdd1318ec.jpg View of Amber Fort from Jaigarh Fort https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db40f9bfcc.jpg Kanak Vrindavan Gardens https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...702202896f.jpg Water Palace |
A great read! You’ve hit some areas I didn’t. Looking forward to reading more.
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patandhank, thank you for commenting. Always encouraging to know that there's still interest.
More Jaipur We began our final day in Jaipur with an early morning hot air balloon ride in the hills north of the city. For about an hour, we glide through the air enjoying the beautiful views of mountains, hills, fields, small villages, and animals. We took in the sunrise from the comfort of our basket. It was a great way to experience some more of this part of the country. We returned to our hotel for breakfast and a change of clothes before venturing out for more sightseeing. We visited Galtaji, a temple complex built into the hillside at the side of a holy sprint. Dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, Galtaji was humming with Hindu pilgrims this morning. Worshippers prayed and bathed in the spring. Non-worshippers like us surveyed the beautiful buildings and frescoes. Nearby was Sisodia Rani ka Bagh, a small home and gardens fit for a maharani or queen. The park-like gardens are beautifully landscaped with frangipani, palm trees, and cypresses. We happily passed some of our time here before continuing on to the far south of the city. Jaipur is ringed by city walls and gates. In addition to gates scattered throughout the old city such as the Ajmer Gate, there are gates in the new city as well, although of more recent construction. One of the most beautiful is supposed to be Patrika Gate near the airport. We traveled by car to the gate for a look-around. Built in 2016, Patrika Gate incorporates Rajasthani design and ornamentation such as the scallopped archways found in all of the city' palaces, images of important landmarks throughout the state, as well as historical and Hindu figures. Nearby was Toran Dwar, also a new piece of art. From there we travelled back to the old city, crossing it from south to north. We arrived at the Royal Gaitor complex, home to monuments and memorials to the city's maharajas and their families. On site are several large domed canopies dedicated to specific maharajas as well as well as smaller cupolas, all of it set in a garden-like setting. We wrapped up our visit to Jaipur back at Hawa Mahal, our favorite building from our 15 days in India. There we enjoyed some cold beverage and light afternoon snacks at Tattoo Cafe overlooking the landmark. We browsed some of the nearby shops and made a few last-minute purchases. Dinner tonight was at Johri, located down a small alleyway a short walk from Hawa Mahal. Serving only vegetarian dishes, Johri was named one of the top restaurants in India this year. While a couple of us typically prefer meat, we didn't miss it given how delicious everything was. We walked off our full bellies with a leisurely stroll back to our hotel, passing by Hawa Mahal one final time. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dc202eeb2.jpg Hot Air Balloon https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67038206ac.jpg Hills North of Jaipur https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9166ec2154.jpg Hills North of Jaipur https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc9737e864.jpg Hills North of Jaipur https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7aacc1ef2c.jpg Sunrise Over Northern Jaipur https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49f3c3d6ef.jpg Galtaji https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e53790ba7c.jpg Spring at Galtaji https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0a91e3396.jpg Sisodia Rani ka Bagh https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2cf3d29bf.jpg Patrika Gate https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...132518b877.jpg Patrika Gate https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95d6afae8d.jpg Toran Dwar https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4e3a34cad.jpg Royal Gaitor Memorial https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ad61f3735.jpg Hawa Mahal |
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