Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Africa & the Middle East (https://www.fodors.com/community/africa-and-the-middle-east/)
-   -   South Africa for about 30 dayser (https://www.fodors.com/community/africa-and-the-middle-east/south-africa-for-about-30-dayser-1672945/)

rhkkmk Oct 17th, 2019 06:29 AM

South Africa for about 30 dayser
 
This is our 2nd trip to SA. We are both 75 yo and traveling with two younger friends from HI.

We began our trip in Boston on Oct 9 and met up with P/L in Atlanta for our Delta non-stop flight to Johannesburg. 14.5 hours latEver we arrived. Luckily we both had an empty seat between us— ours by request, theirs by a broken seat.

We stayed the first night near JNB at a Protea Marriott business hotel. Adequate. Free shuttle.

Next day we flew Mango Airlines to Capetown— 2+ hours. We were met by a rep from the Capetown Taj Hotel where we stayed 4 nights. We had exec club rooms which incl the one way airport transfer. Our rooms were on floor 2 in heritage rooms, only steps from the lounge. Large hi ceiling rooms with modernized bath rooms and walk in showers. Bed was king and comfortable.
Nicely appointed rooms, excellent central location— free shuttle within central district and to table met and waterfront, hourly. Taxis/Ubers very cheap— we used taxis.

Drinks in the lounge nite one followed by an excellent Indian dinner in the hotel in the opulent Bombay Brassiere. Yum.

Good sleep.

rhkkmk Oct 17th, 2019 12:05 PM

Ttt

laurieco Oct 17th, 2019 01:58 PM

Well, don't stop there, we want to hear more! I am thinking about going to SA within the next year or so. I can't wait to go on another safari, and with SA, we could combine wine tasting and some city life. Looking forward to the rest of the trip report. Have fun and tell your long suffering wife and P & L hi! Oh, and post some pics if you can.

Charlie15 Oct 18th, 2019 12:28 AM

So much to do in and around Cape Town. Can't wait to hear what you guys got up to.

rhkkmk Oct 18th, 2019 08:51 AM

Fully typed and disappeared

laurieco Oct 18th, 2019 08:56 AM


Originally Posted by rhkkmk (Post 17002471)
Fully typed and disappeared

:cry:

rhkkmk Oct 18th, 2019 11:38 AM

Leisure day tomorrow, hope to type

laurieco Oct 18th, 2019 02:31 PM

Enjoy your day. I look forward to your report but don't spend the day writing. Go out, drink some wine, relax and have fun.

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 05:40 AM

So the Indian food was delicious and the room beautiful.

Great sleep.

FRIDAY

Breakfast in the club, excellent eggs Benedict with the freshest hollandaise.

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 06:02 AM

The day was spent mostly on the hop on hop off buses. We did both routes, starting and finishing on Long street, where we also stopped for lunch at Tiger Milk Bar...Yummy sandwiches— reasonable. We stayed on the bus the whole time.

Capetown is a beautiful city— mountains, sea, mostly low rise buildings, clean, and safe if you pay attention— pick pockets are everywhere, because of the minority poverty.

We returned to the Taj to rest a bit and enjoy wine, drinks and “canapees”. P ordered vodka. Response, “we have none”... WHAT.. 5* hotel is out of vodka??? This was our first problem with the Taj with several more to come...
My response???? You got it....GM please. The duty manager appeared— I knew her... She found some for P.

Dinner that nite was a reservation at Reverie Social Table in the Observatory section of the city. Area is “up and coming”. We took a taxi there. Storefront location. Large oval table with 18 chairs.
Immediately we were offered a glass of a light white wine and shown through to an open aire back room. Introductions were made as newcomers arrived, free flow wine.

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 06:26 AM

We were invited to take a seat at the large table, and told that we were welcome to change seats at any time— only one couple did. Our fellow dinners hailed from: USA, Italy, Brazil, Scotland (Ireland), India, Thailand (5). Conversations like the wine, was bountiful.

THE MEAL WAS 5 courses, each with a free flow wine pairing (red and whites), all from the same SA vineyard— changes frequently.

Courses:

fish cakes with kale chips
yellow-tale with bacalao chips on top, orange flavored, accompanied with raw and sautéed broccoli and cauliflower salad, topped with roasted nuts
quail two ways— southern fried leg and rolled and stuffed breast roasted
cheese coarse with pineapple strata, home made chips and blue cheese mousse
chocolate bomb with raspberry sorbet

Interesting courses, some fab, some OK. Tons of very good wine, free flow— only one person abused this.

cost: 1840 ZAR, plus optional tip (400 in my case)= $124. plus $27 per couple
time: 7:30-11:30

Same taxi came for us.

Great day and evening

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 07:00 AM

SATURDAY

Breakfast in main dining room, dirty tablecloths (5*?) and threadbare.

Quiet AM, then taxi to V&A waterfront.

Delicious lunch quay side at Life Grand Cafe under a large umbrella overlooking the working harbor.

Girls walked the largest of the malls. K had her glasses fixed.

Picked up our Toyota Forerunner SUV at Hertz on Loop St. $900 for 10 days. Perfect for the 4 of us with tons of luggage. Diesel.

Left car with doorman (free parking).

Club for a beverage, then downtime in our beautiful large heritage rooms.

Drinks in club— no shortage of vodka.

Taxi to Osteria Tarantino. Tiny restaurant in a neighborhood— a bit hard to find, but was it worth it.!!!!!
Reservations essential...serves lunch and dinner, same menu. Family run. Limited menu on chalk boards.

Our foods:

antipasto
veal capaccio
veal saltimbocca
veal and mushroom
4 P’s. : pasta, pomodoro, parmeasan, prochutto
tiramisu
panacotta
chocolate salami cigar
2 bottles of white


Simply excellent and great service

1025 ZAR per couple. $ 69.

Taxi back to hotel.

Next problem: I only had a 100zar, driver had no change (5*) may I remind you. After 10 minutes 2. 50’s were found. Gave driver a 50. For my list for GM...

Beddie-bye

tripplanner001 Oct 19th, 2019 07:02 AM

Sounds - and I’m sure, tastes, wonderful.

laurieco Oct 19th, 2019 10:53 AM

Sounds like you are having a great time despite the problems at the hotel. Waiting for more...

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 12:40 PM

Personal update: There are frequent brown outs here. This AM I fell in our garage. A knee cut and an elbow cut. The nurse, K, patched me up. My medium rare steak tonight helped for sure—- iron.

rhkkmk Oct 19th, 2019 10:53 PM

Is anyone reading along? Otherwise I will stop

kmkrnn Oct 19th, 2019 10:56 PM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7154e09c9.jpeg
Meal at Bombay Brassiere

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 12:39 AM

Time to hit the road— a long drive along the coast to the seaside town of Knysna. 5-6 hour drive. SUV was perfect— just fit our luggage, but comfy for us.

Before leaving I met with the GM to express our views about the Taj, and the lack of 4* service.

Stopped along the way in the town of Swellendam for lunch.

Arrived in the late afternoon at our hotel— a converted power plant, called The Turbine Hotel. It is located on an island, called Thessan Island in the Knysna Estuary. Lux hotel. Tons of pumps, huge valves and machinery decorate the hotel.

Ate in the hotel the first night. Good, but not fab. Fab service in hotel.

Great sleep.

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 12:56 AM

Excellent breakfast, included.

Drove the far side of the Estuary, through hillside waterfront suburb to the end of the road at the fab East Head Cafe overlooking the craggy rocks and pounding surf. Fantastic lunch— no mussels or oysters available that day sadly.
Returned to the hotel—- girls checked out some of the nice shops on the island.

Dinner at a very busy Italian cafe— Mario’s. Very good.


Breakfast at hotel. Lazed around. In the PM drove further down the coast to Pletenburg Bay. Had a res at the fab Emily Moon Restaurant overlooking a river meandering thru a reedy area. Candlelit dining room, fab food. Fillet for me, fish for girls, lamb shank for P. Delicious wines of course and decadent desserts.

Dark drive back to Turbine.
Good roads everywhere, btw.

Kathie Oct 20th, 2019 06:12 AM

Bob, enjoying your report, but reading it makes me hungry!

Heimdall Oct 20th, 2019 06:15 AM

I’m reading along, and looking forward to Cape Town for the fourth time in December-January. Thank you for this trip report!

kmkrnn Oct 20th, 2019 07:04 AM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b8441a8b.jpeg
Fish stew at Mabel joes
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...785f5d3a1.jpeg
Wall board at label joes
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42bb6d1e7.jpeg
How you get rid of the shells

kmkrnn Oct 20th, 2019 07:07 AM

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cb9ceded.jpeg
Flowers along the shore
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...373adb0ca.jpeg
Hermanus shore line
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fde5f2c96.jpeg
Hermanus shore

laurieco Oct 20th, 2019 10:26 AM

Enjoying the report and loving the photos! Are you going on safari at all?

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 10:35 AM

Travel day tomorrow— heading to wine country. Hope to bring this up to date soon.

HappyTrvlr Oct 20th, 2019 02:04 PM

Interesting report, beautiful photos,love the restaurant reviews.

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 10:39 PM

Nice drive to Hermanus. Sadly no whales this year. 10 years ago they hugged the shore in Hermanus. Lunch along the way at Baleia wine Bistro. Very good.

Arrived at Hermanus, staying at Harbour House right in center of town with ocean across the street. We are in Le Paradis, a 4 unit bldg with 4 2 bedroom, 2 bath units. Tri-level including the garage underneath with direct entrance into unit. Very large open floor plan on main floor—-kitchen, dishwasher, washer/dryer (3 hour cycle), dining table for 8, 2 sofas, comfy chairs, 2 outdoor patios, lawn, small pool, wood bbq— all very very nice.

Dinner first nite at Burgundy on the Square across the road— good.
Fabulous dinner the next night at La Pentola, overlooking sea.

Menu:
steaks—fillets, very tender
chicken, San Torini
fish— hake
snails wrapped in bacon—fab
Beaumont Chenin Blanc. Wine. +++
Castle light beer
flambe strawberry and ice cream flammed at table with booze.
Danish ice cream dish

Fabulous dinner— noisy

Charlie15 Oct 20th, 2019 10:48 PM

Thank you for the write ups and pictures. Yeah, unfortunately the brown outs ( or load shedding as it's known in SA started) again last week - hopefully it doesn't effect your trip too much. Enjoy!

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 10:58 PM

Breakfast in rooms— banana bread with butter, coffee, cranberry juice, water.

P and girls went for a long walk around town.

Lunch at back street pizza joint— excellent— Rossi’s. Quarto sections— ham, mushrooms, tomato, olives, artichokes—fab
brown out for 4 hours.


Lazy AM with walk for P and girls—shopping in nice shops.

Lunch out of town at Kabeljoes in Kleinmond. Great ocean view.... Greek salad w/fries; seafood stew(loaded), mussels, shrimp curry-spicy, ice cream and Malva pudding, beer. 1/4 finals rugby match on tv— lots of cheering.

Dinner again on edge of town in “new harbor” area. Very nice restaurant— Harbor Rock.

menu:

Lamb shank
2 oysters, not great
steak
soup- cauliflower and cumin
dim sum
silver fish— fab
24 pieces of sushi, good but not fab
pavlova with fruits

early to bed, exhausted from doing nothing...

rhkkmk Oct 20th, 2019 11:14 PM

Notes about countryside:

beautiful rolling hills and mountains. large farms, grains, grapes, beautiful wild flowers, flowering bushes— yellow, purple, red, orange, white and lush green.
some land is parched, some irrigated. Huge farming tracts of grass, wheat and other grains..

Beautiful landscape to drive through...

Nearer to towns are huge “townships”, i.e. ghettos. Shacks, tin and wood roof huts—- horrible conditions, dangerous even for residents. Hotels and restaurants bus their help from many townships. We have encountered nothing but lovely people serving us, most from townships.

Driving is very easy, roads are good and repairs are in evidence. Average MPH— 60-75.
gas moderate to expensive.

Off to breakfast in hotel’s dining room.

rhkkmk Oct 21st, 2019 06:58 AM

Gas about $4.50 per gallon.

kmkrnn Oct 22nd, 2019 02:03 AM

Kabel Joes is the name

kmkrnn Oct 22nd, 2019 02:04 AM

Unit 5 we were in

rhkkmk Oct 22nd, 2019 07:05 AM

Seems no one has interest so I’m done writing...

sorry kathie and laurie

Kathie Oct 22nd, 2019 02:20 PM

Bob, please keep writing!

laurieco Oct 22nd, 2019 03:21 PM

I'm reading! Have you done anything other than eat and shop? Are you going on safari at all?

Craig Oct 22nd, 2019 03:24 PM

Keep Writing!
 
I haven't followed Fodor's for a long while. I don't even check FB more than once a week. Other priorities have taken over as you know. But I as well as others I'm sure are enjoying your report.

kmkrnn Oct 23rd, 2019 12:15 AM

Laurie...he may write again. Next week we fly back to Jburg and drive up for a safari, and a few days of driving In Kreuger. This week is ocean and wine

Heimdall Oct 23rd, 2019 06:57 AM

Rhkkmk, this thread now has 8.5k views, and that suggests people do have interest in your writing. That said, I would like to see more of what you are doing when you aren't sitting down for lunch and dinner. Please keep writing.

hawaiiantraveler Oct 23rd, 2019 08:02 AM

I am sure LL is following your report so that makes it allll good. Hi Kathie Craig n Laurie! Linda, Karen and I have been shopping and buying lots of goodies as well as keeping Bob company on his eating forays ;)

I will monitor this report and add if rhk allows haha. We are having a blast btw. Going to see the penguins tomorrow...they have similar movements while walking as rhk I hear. I will let you all know

Aloha!


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:07 PM.