Sept Private Drive-Fly: # of Cars/Sighting, Budget KWS Bandas, Birds & More
 

A fantastic safari with lots happening. I met up with <b>Sonali</b> from Fodors and we shared views of a huge crossing and a magnificent sunset. Throughout the trip I kept track of the number of other vehicles at the various wildlife sightings and will share that. Kenya Wildlife Service Bandas are the Bargain of Kenya IMO; lodging descriptions are included. I had one run-in with some aggressive baboons, but security guards came to my aid. A rescue operation that I single handedly pulled off inspired the Quote of the Trip, a One-Act Play in which I star ;), and musical solo (by me) ;) in the bush.

<u>Eastern and Southern Safaris in Nairobi, Kenya</u>
I used Eastern & Southern Safaris but our route was north, then northeast, followed by due west with one shortcut to Somalia between Meru and Shaba (not really, but it was similar to what frequent posters Patty and Leely experienced with the same Driver/Guide Ben), southwest, and finally east, and I’m still confused, which is why there are no self drives in my future.

Driver/Guides Ben and Raphael each have unique talents that added to the enjoyment of the trip. Ben is a superb bird guide with amazing spotting skills that extend to all species and has tales that would make a fascinating novel. Raphael is great at avoiding the Mara crowds and searching out animals independently, maintaining respect for the wildlife even when the masses of vehicles do not, and maximizing time in the bush.

E&S is a great value.

<u>Itinerary for this 3-week trip</u>
The final itinerary took an embarrassingly large number of email exchanges initiated by me, re-workings, lodging changes, and finally a shift of an entire month, but Boaz of E&S was always responsive, helpful and patient with my many revisions and tweaks. If you correspond with E&S and receive no email response after a week, try again. Twice during our year’s worth of planning my e-mail message somehow never got through.

31 Aug – Depart O’Hare
1 Sept – Arrive Nairobi, o/nt Panari Hotel
2 Sept – Drive to Aberdare, o/nt Fishing Lodge KWS Banda
3 Sept – Day spent in Aberdare, game drive in Salient, hiking to waterfalls, o/nt Fishing Lodge
4 Sept – Morning game drive in Aberdare, drive to Meru, o/nt Kinnas KWS Banda
5 Sept – Morning and afternoon game drives in Meru, o/nt Kinnas
6 Sept – Morning and afternoon game drives in Meru, o/nt Kinnas
7 Sept – Morning game drive in Meru, drive to Shaba, afternoon game drive Shaba, o/nt Sarova
8 Sept – Drive to Buffalo Springs, morning and afternoon game drive Buffalo Springs, o/nt Simba
9 Sept – Morning, mid-day, afternoon game drives in Buffalo Springs, o/nt Simba
10 Sept – Half day game drive in Samburu, afternoon game drive in Buffalo Springs, o/nt Simba
11 Sept – Morning game drive in Buffalo Springs, fly to Mara, afternoon game drive in Talek, o/nt Fig Tree
12 Sept - Half day game drive in Talek area of Mara, afternoon game drive in Talek, o/nt Fig Tree
13 Sept - Half day game drive in Talek area of Mara, afternoon game drive in Talek, o/nt Fig Tree
14 Sept - Half day game drive in Talek area of Mara, afternoon game drive in Talek, o/nt Fig Tree
15 Sept - Half day game drive enroute to Mara Triangle, afternoon game drive in Mara Triangle, o/nt Mara Serena
16 Sept – Full day game drive in Mara Triangle, o/nt Mara Serena, night drive
17 Sept – Half day game drive in Mara Triangle, afternoon game drive in Mara Triangle, o/nt Mara Serena
18 Sept – Half day game drive in Mara Triangle, afternoon game drive in Mara Triangle, o/nt Mara Serena
19 Sept – Half day game drive in Mara enroute to Nairobi, depart Nairobi
20 Sept – Arrive in Chicago

The mid-day and full-day game drives were determined once I was in the parks, but I made sure that the option for all-day game drives at my discretion in each location was in my original itinerary for maximum flexibility. I also made sure that there were no restrictions on distances or kilometers traveled. Turns out it was too hot in Meru, Shaba, and Samburu (for us and the animals) to be out from about noon to three, and only one 11-hour day was needed in the Mara, thanks to Raphael’s willingness to routinely skip a hot breakfast.

<u>Bandas are the Bargain of Kenya</u>
If you do your own meal prep and drive yourself, they’d be even more of a bargain, but I wasn’t willing to go that far. In comparing and contrasting the 2 Kenya Wildlife Service Bandas I used with some Premier Luxury Camps of Botswana costing many hundreds per night, the bandas come out very well.

Fishing Lodge is in Aberdare and Kinnas is in Meru. Kinnas might also be known as Bwathernrongi Bandas, the nearby river. (Photos of Fishing Lodge and surroundings are with the Aberdare album, pictures #4-6. Photos of Kinnas are with the Meru album, pictures #15-19.) Both albums will appear later in the report.

<b>Similarities between low cost bandas and expensive luxury camps:</b>

Small, intimate setting--Fishing Lodge allowed 2 parties and Kinnas had bandas for 4 parties.

Remote location without many vehicles—I saw 4 other safari vehicles during activities in Aberdare, all going the opposite direction. I saw 5 other safari vehicles in Meru, actually there were 4 separate vehicles, but we encountered one twice.

Lovely setting with resident wildlife—Aberdare’s Fishing Lodge had 360 degrees of beautiful mountaintop scenery. Spoor indicated lots of animal visitors and I saw a Duiker, Jackson’s Francolin, and Waterbuck. With less rain, I’d have seen more wildlife around the banda. The nearby Magura River could be heard flowing, even from inside, but I was warned not to venture down the path to the river without an armed guard due to buffalo. Meru’s Kinnas Bandas were near the Bwathernrongi River and boasted an abundance of animals and birds—herds of impala, troops of baboons and vervets, agama lizards, two resident genets, woodpeckers, a variety of weavers, even several appearances of the Paradise Flycatcher with its flowing white tail feathers. Some nights there were non-stop baboon alarm calls and internal squabbles, plus lions roaring to each other. One night we could hear lions chase an antelope around the building and the tracks we saw the next day confirmed the pursuit.

Personal service--If you have a private vehicle, guide, and chef as I did, then you cannot get more personal service than that. Each banda had KWS staff on site. At Fishing Lodge the staff frequently delivered wood for the fire. At Fishing Lodge I spent an entire day in a different vehicle with a driver and a KWS ranger, plus my own E&S guide so that was 3 people attending to moi—very personalized.

Plunge Pool--Kinnas had one that I did not use and Fishing Lodge was way too cold for plunging.

Rustic and authentic safari feel—That’s definitely the vibe. No electricity at either banda so we used lanterns. The E&S vehicle could charge batteries even if it was not running.

Comfortable and clean—Absolutely.

Mosquito netting—One is provided at Kinnas, but there was no “tie up” service each day, so I left it unfurled. It was tied upon my arrival. No netting is needed in the higher altitude Fishing Lodge.

Ensuite facilities—Flush toilet, hot water, and shower all were available a few steps away in my own bathroom, all under one roof. Fishing Lodge provided towels. Kinnas was bring your own towels, so that is a difference from a luxury tented camp.

Good food—Not only was the food good, but you can have personal requests with your own chef.

<b>Differences:</b>

The price!

Bandas are not tented; they are solid wood or brick walls and floors. Most luxury tented camps are under canvas.

Library, resources, and onsite CD backup of your memory card—None at the bandas

Electricity—None at the bandas

Afternoon tea and pastries—I think you could request this, which I did not. But the fancy desserts at the luxury camps and tea served on fine china would be tough to duplicate at the bandas.

Wait staff and beautifully set tables—There was no staff at mealtimes, just Chef Martin. Some of the dishes and silverware he brought along and some were provided at the bandas. All were clean. There was no napkin art at the table but we did have some placemats.

Beautiful furniture and decor—Fishing Lodge had some nice pictures on the wall and attractive furniture; Kinnas had an airy screened porch (that I forgot to photograph, darnit) but nothing stunning at either banda. The banda beds were comfortable, though.

Raised wooden walkways—none at the bandas

Towels—Fishing Lodge had fine towels; Kinnas was BYO. I arranged a stop in Nairobi to buy a bath towel enroute to Aberdare, rather than bring one from home, which would mean my luggage would be too bulky to carry on the plane. In contrast, the luxury tents often have terry cloth bathrobes provided. I left the towel with my driver before I flew out to the Mara.

Laundry service—none at the bandas so I did mine in the sink.

Hot water bottle at night—None needed at Kinnas. This would be a good item to request in advance for Fishing Lodge, especially if there is no additional source of body heat to warm the bed, as was my case.

Wine and spirits—E&S asked me about beverages in the planning stages so that would be the time to request any special drinks. I did not ask for wine or other alcohol and didn’t see any.

Mingling with others—Other than a nod or a wave, there was not much interaction with the other couple people I saw at the bandas. At the luxury camps, tea and mealtimes offered excellent opportunities to interact with others.

Guide Quarters—The bandas had a common center area and bedrooms with their own bathroom were on either side. I stayed in one of the bedrooms and Guide Ben and Chef Martin used the other. I think at Fishing Lodge there was yet another little room near the kitchen for the chef. At the luxury tents, staff has their own quarters or village.

Tipping the staff—At the end of the stay, I gave a standard daily staff tip to the guy who supplied us with wood for the fireplace several times a day at Fishing Lodge. At Kinnas, I left an amount on the pillow similar to what I would for maid service for my 3-night stay. At the luxury camps, there is usually a tip box for staff.
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In sum, I loved the KWS bandas and not just as a means for saving money on lodging. The reason I did not stay at bandas throughout the trip was they are only available in the national parks that are operated by Kenya Wildlife Service. The reserves of the Maasai Mara, Shaba, Samburu and Buffalo Springs do not offer these bandas.

Here is a link to banda rates. http://www.kws.org/export/sites/kws/...anda_Rates.pdf

<u>What Kind of Vehicle? That is the question.</u>

4x4 Land Rover/Cruiser/Jeep or Minibus?

Since I was going in the driest month of the year when roads should not be transformed into ponds or streams and since there was no offroading allowed in my destinations, I felt confident that the more economical minibus would be sufficient, especially since it would be just me inside. But to be on the safe side, I requested a 4-wheel drive minibus with pop top and not the standard 2-wheel drive minibus.

The changing weather patterns meant there was quite a bit of rain and the extra power and traction of a 4-wheel drive was needed at times. There were even two occasions in the Mara where Raphael (a superb driver) did not want to chance advancing through running water and mud, despite the 4-wheel drive.

My last afternoon in the Mara it rained so heavily for about 90 minutes that everybody in every kind of vehicle called it quits early and then the next morning all the vehicles stayed away from the muddier tracks. Just too risky. It is amazing what only 90 minutes of downpour and another 2 hours very light drizzle can do to the roads.

In Samburu and Shaba, about half the vehicles were either Rovers, Cruisers, or Jeeps, and half were minibuses. The two places I stayed in the Mara--along the Talek River and the Mara Triangle--about 1/3 of the vehicles were minibuses.

Interestingly, at the Keekorok Airstrip, the vehicle mix awaiting clients was half minibuses. The next stop at the Olekiombo airstrip, where I got off, mine was the only minibus in the crowd.

I wonder if being the sole minibus had anything to do with a pair of rangers pursuing us in their vehicle and aggressively confronting us (and only us) shortly after we departed the airstrip. One of the rangers was armed with a rifle and they both boarded our vehicle, huddling into the front seat, and made us drive about 10 minutes to their station to review our park permits, all of which were in perfect order. I later asked my driver if extra money was requested and fortunately it was not. Odd, though.

The two minibuses I had were in fine condition and had no problems. Between the pop top and sliding windows on the side, I felt I had unobstructed viewing and photo access to everything. Being alone I could move around inside easily for the best angles.

In the future, due to unpredictable weather patterns and the likelihood of heavy rains at anytime which can really mess up the roads and tracks, the Rover/Cruiser/Jeep may become the most logical alternative, even for budget conscious solo travelers. Eastern and Southern told me they will be offering even more of those types of vehicles.

<u>Choosing Parks where Offroading is Banned</u>
While I find the greater access that is permitted by offroading to be more desirable, I have rarely found the requirement to stay on the tracks a deterrent to my viewing or photography. In part that’s because there are numerous roads and tracks for liberal access. It also means your guide may need more knowledge of animal behavior to position the vehicle in the right place so that the animals naturally cross your path. Or you may need more patience to wait it out until the animals move to an accessible area. That’s where good guiding coupled with a take-your-time attitude pays off.

On this trip, there were only 4 instances in 3 weeks of safari where we were hindered by the no offroading rules, and only 1 of those resulted in foregoing the sighting altogether.

(1) There was a small, distant herd of eles in the Mara that we bypassed due to no accessible roads or tracks, so in that case we just gave up.

(2) There was one lioness with two tiny cubs that was off the track so we had compromised views; however, approaching closer would have been harassment anyway given their vulnerability. I still got nice photos.

(3) One ostrich family with a brood of 2-month old chicks eluded until we traveled along the designated waited for it to pass nearby. So strategy and patience worked. But then it shouldn’t be too hard to outsmart an ostrich.

(4) Finally one lion pride in Samburu was not very accessible for about 10 minutes of our 15 minutes of viewing due to the no offroading requirement, but there were great photo ops during the 5 minutes of accessibility. Those were the only limitations I recall during the whole trip.

There were several times when I was thankful for the no offroading rules and thankful the other vehicles were following them because the predators were given some breathing room. In Samburu/Buffalo Springs I witnessed not one single violation of vehicles straying off the track. I did see violations in the Maasai Mara. My E&S guides stayed on the tracks and respected the animals, which was important to me.

<u>Arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport</u>
Since I was just about the last person off the plane and just about last in line for customs, I had the perfect perspective to oversee the 4 “Visa Purchase for Foreign Visitors” lines and the 1 “Foreign Visitors Already Possessing a Visa” line. The lines seemed to advance at an equal pace so by the time I stepped up, only a couple people were left in any of the foreigner lines.

There is a money exchange before arriving at customs and a 24 hour exchange in the baggage area.

<u>Panari in Nairobi and other hotel options</u>
Of the many fine accommodations in Nairobi I have found Panari is a very nice hotel at a decent price and it is the closest to the airport, about 15 minutes away. I have stayed here instead of even more reasonably priced places further from the airport because I like to minimize driving at night, which is when my flight arrives. Getting to a hotel promptly to start recovering from jetlag is even more important when there is an early departure the next day. For any excursion in Nairobi National Park or for a flight out the next morning, the location is ideal.

I’ve heard about a place at the airport, something like Aviator’s Club but you don’t have to be a pilot or anything associated with flying, where you can get an inexpensive room at the airport. That could be a very good deal but I did not purse that option this time around.

Ole Sereni (not to be confused with Seren<b>a</b>) is located at the previous US Embassy site and has been open about a year. It is only a few more minutes away from the airport than Panari and appears to have great views of Nairobi National Park. Panari has some rooms that overlook the park too.

<u>Food, including Cucumber Juice, Sour Milk, Palette Cleansers, etc.</u>

All the food I ate was great, whether it was the extensive buffets at the lodges or meals prepared by Martin, the Eastern & Southern Chef who accompanied us to the bandas. I was not fond of the cucumber juice that was one of the many breakfast beverages at Mara Serena, but fortunately, that mealy green liquid was easily avoided and there was plenty of fresh orange, passion fruit, pineapple, carrot juice, etc. If you happen to be a fan of the cuke juice, I can assure you it was freshly squeezed and frothy.

Martin told me he had always enjoyed cooking and loved his job, which was evident by the fine meals he served. As part of the pre-trip planning, I had requested that the chef prepare a few typical Kenyan meals and Martin obliged with some excellent ugali offerings and fish dishes.

I found a new favorite beverage—sour milk. The name of this packaged, no-refrigeration-needed product gave me pause, but it was delicious—a cross between buttermilk and yogurt with a hint of sour cream. I did not think the Kenyans could teach someone who hails from the Dairy State of Wisconsin anything about butter fat, but I was wrong.

I sure miss the daily fresh pineapple that I had become accustomed to.

Mara Serena often served some very tasty sliced tiny Gherkins. Those Dairy State roots compelled me to pair the pickles with some of the soft and hard cheeses offered at the dessert table. I think the Swiss are fond of that combination as well, probably Après Ski. When another English speaking diner took obvious notice of my plate, I explained that the Gherkins and cheese were so good that they had been elevated to a palette cleansing course at my table. I said this with a laugh and thought that might be a good conversation starter in the buffet line. It was not.

<u>Mixing with Others on a Solo Trip</u>
Bantering about Gherkins is not a successful strategy for mixing.

Except for the brief shared vehicle at a river crossing with Sonali, I was alone this trip. At the bandas Driver/Guide Ben and I ate together, as well as at Sarova, where the policy has guides and guests sharing meals. At Samburu Simba, Fig Tree, and Serena the guides dine separately.

Since I did not manage to get adopted by any other groups or couples, I had a table for one (except when Sonali and I met up). I noticed the staff paid extra attention to the solos and the conversations that ensued offered some chuckles and insights.

In deciding what I would request at the made-to-order pasta bar, I asked the chef, “If this were your lunch, what would you get?” His reply was, “I am Maasai and do not eat any of this pasta.” He further explained that he follows the recipe exactly and does not need to rely on tasting. A few nights later when the meal was lamb, chicken, and spicy sausage barbeque, he assured me that he’d be sampling all of those items with enthusiasm.

Another conversation with a Maasai chef turned to his upcoming leave from work. He shared that he was very excited to be heading home in a few days and described the route and transportation. I only recall the last leg of the trip, which was a walk of like 11 kilometers.

“I’m sure you’ll be glad to see your family,” I said to which he replied, “I want to see my cows; I miss my cows.” He had 24 of them.

When asked who takes care of the cows in his absence, his response was: “my mother.” No mention of missing her. Considering the importance that cows hold in the Maasai culture, I don’t believe there was any maternal disrespect meant by his comment.

I ran into a couple of birders who were traveling with Guide Ben’s nephew’s company, Ben’s Ecological Safaris, that specializes in birding. Uncle and nephew are both named Ben. The clients were absolutely giddy with excitement over just seeing their 900th bird species in Africa. I told them that was worth bringing out the Jambo Bwana singers and dancers as bird #900 is as monumental as many other life milestones.

Fig Tree had the most congenial after dinner bonfire and I chatted with some nice folks there--when my attention was not absorbed by the genet and bush baby that nibble on the fruit set out for them.

Visiting with the head of a <b>serious photography</b> group, I took note of an interesting observation he made based on many trips to the Mara. He said he found the lions to be more active when the migration was NOT on. In his opinion, abundance made them lazy and therefore harder to get interesting photos.

This photo group, traveling on a budget, was wrapping up a 2-week trip in the Mara, evenly split between Serena and Fig Tree, the same two places I was staying. I felt good that even if I lacked the skill and equipment of the serious photographers, I had booked the same lodging.

Based on their experience over the 2 weeks--which they felt was very good, but not up to some of their expectations--and based on my Mara trips, if I were planning a fortnight photo shoot in the Mara and wanted to maximize my predator sightings, I’d stay at 3 different locations, not 2.

<u>What to do during midday down time, especially traveling as a solo, but for anyone</u>

Here samples at 2 different locations.

Midday at Kinnas Bandas in Meru which provided the longest break due to the intense midday heat and therefore the most unscheduled time:

9:30 Arrive back at the banda
9:30-9:45 Get situated, organized after morning drive

9:45-10:15 Breakfast, although there was always something to eat available before we left in the early a.m.

10:15-10:45 Visit with guide after meal
10:45-11:15 Wander around grounds birdwatching, photographing lizards, looking at vervets, etc.

11:15-11:45 Shower, wash some garments in sink
11:45-12:30 Read
12:30-1:30 Nap during the heat of the day
1:30-2:00 Lunch
2:00-2:30 Visit with guide after meal

2:30-3:15 Review/delete photos, consult bird book, go over notes from trip, get ready for afternoon outing

3:15-3:45 Relax, read, wait for departure

Midday at Mara Serena where I spent from 6:30 am until nearly noon each day on outings, leaving less downtime:

11:45 Arrive back at Lodge
11:45-12:30 Walk around grounds, birdwatching, rock hyrax watching, etc.

12:30-1:00 Get situated, organized after morning drive, shower and freshen up

1:00-1:45 Walk to lunch and eat

1:45-2:45 Walk back to room and nap after lunch
2:45-3:30 Review/delete photos, consult bird book, go over notes from trip, get ready for afternoon outing

3:30-3:45 Wander around on way to vehicle for afternoon drive

If you process photos on a lap top, that would occupy a lot of the down time. The pools also can be a good way to spend some time. Serena had bird walks and spa services. It might seem like huge stretches of time with nothing to do, but the unscheduled time flies by, even when traveling solo. I never accomplished as much reading as I had planned on. The darn game drives always intruded.

<u>Attire & Gear</u>
* At least at the larger lodges and camps in Kenya where guests remain in a vehicle anything goes now. I saw every color in the rainbow on both guides and guests during game drives. Hawaiian shirts, gold lamé, ruffled skirts, white chiffon veils fashioned into a flowing cape, sports jerseys with netting, black and white checks, fire engine red, hot pink, purple, royal blue. Bejeweled sandals were also popular.

If it’s comfortable and not camouflage, (which is outlawed by the military) and it’s not tse tse-attracting blue (if tse tse infested areas are on the itinerary) pack it and wear it proudly!

To think that prior to my first safari in 1994 I was so concerned about wearing the proper khaki colors that I worried my white socks might scare away the animals if light reflected off of my ankles at the floor of the vehicle. Despite my agent’s assurance that would not be the case, I wanted to take no chances and dyed my five pairs of white socks beige.

In the evening at the lodges some people wore clean safari clothes or casual wear but there were also long dresses with spaghetti straps, strapless gowns, miniskirts, and those body hugging dresses that I’ve seen on the more curvaceous of the Kardashian sisters. Some of the lodges had a sign requesting no shorts for the evening meal.

At lunch at the lodges I was the only person I noticed wearing a printed t-shirt and binoculars on a neck harness.

* My practice of packing two hats paid off this trip as my trusted Tilley that had accompanied me during three decades of adventures suddenly went missing. These hats all look alike and maybe someone picked it up.

My name and address were in a flap inside the hat, but not readily visible. Also there were a few faint ink stains on the brim from a previous pen explosion fiasco in my duffle that would differentiate my Tilley from the others.

No hat was turned in to lost and found, so it looks like I’ll be getting one of those new lighter weight airier Tilley models. Guess I’ll have to measure my head again. Before I left I posted about someone who was very interested in whether I’d get a free hat in Kenya and I found it a bit silly. Apparently the hat gods were offended and exacted their revenge.

*If going to Fishing Lodge, bring warm clothes and/or layers. You can see your breath inside at night. I wore 5 layers on top and 4 on the bottom to bed along with hat and gloves.

*In really hot places such as Meru and even Samburu, consider bringing a hand towel from the room that can be doused in water and placed around the neck or on top of the head to keep cool. And not just for you, but for your driver, perhaps especially for your driver. The more comfortable the driver, the better your safari. I always bring my own bandana to serve as a wet rag around the neck.

* Make your own bean bag (for camera stabilization) instructions that worked for me: I took a 16-oz plastic bag of dried beans and reinforced it with another plastic bag and duct tape. The bean bag could be used as is, but I preferred to stick it in the sleeve or hood of a garment or better yet--wrap it in a hand towel from the lodge, secured with rubberbands and/or safety pins. At the end of the trip I gave the beans to the guide. Hope he likes Navy.

*Drawstring bag instead of a backpack: I thought I’d go with a less bulky option this time since I would be mostly sedentary in a vehicle. For my hiking in Aberdare I carried an around-the-waist camera bag. The drawstring bag and a camera bag were sufficient for the daily game drives. Even if I had shared the vehicle with others, those items would not have taken up too much room.

* Spotted: Tourist wearing a pith helmet, along with a foot-and-half long sheathed Kukri knife attached to the belt. I won’t say where I saw the individual sporting this getup because it could reflect poorly on the establishment. But I can say with certainty that s/he was not strolling through either of my bandas. I write s/he not to protect the innocent but because I’m really not sure. S/he had tussled blond curls poking out from under the pith helmet that rested low over the eyes and the safari outfit was loose-fitting. Imagine Jane Hathaway from the Beverly Hillbillies with a curly perm wearing a pith helmet and a complete safari costume. From a distance the gender would be hard to detect. And I didn’t want to stare. I thought about snapping a photo, but was afraid to provoke this character who wielded a huge knife.

<i>Aberdare and the actual safari is next</i>

Wxcellent information provided atravelynn!

Particularly regarding the bandas, cooking, socialising (or lack of it while traveling solo) is priceless!

I support the photographer's statement regarding cat activities outside migration season!

Looking forward to reading more and maybe looking at your pics.

THX!

((@))

thx atravelynn this is very nice to read, especially since im planning my own solo safari at the moment ;)

Oh lynn!
I just LOVE reading your trip reports!
I have actually been avoiding most trip reports because a return trip to Afreeeeeekah is not in my future for a looong time and reading them is too painful.
But I will make an exception for one of yours!
They're too good to miss!
I'm looking forward to more!

Hi Atravelynn
I have been researching Kenya off and on now for about 7 months (have taken a trip to Egypt and China in between!!) Your report is very interesting to read with so much info and I like the itinerary that you did and the manner in which you did it.
What was the appromimate price of your trip? We (my husband and myself) will probably go next September 2011 Thanks Sandy

Great detail and love the solo perspective since I'm headed for my first sold trip to Africa soon. The bandas sound like a good way to save money and have an authentic experience.

Thanks for the nice comments. It is an honor to be an exception, Lillipets. Hope Africa returns to your plans soon.

Interesting that Spassvogel experienced the same thing with lazy cats during the migration. Something to consider when deciding the pros and cons of traveling at different times of year.

<b>Sb1020</b>, it will be less per person for you. The entire safari was $7934 (I only spent another $4 on beverages, so $7938) and that included flying doctors emergency medical and evacuation insurance, the internal flight, an additional Land Rover and driver in Aberdare, and one night drive at Serena. My domestic flight between Samburu and Mara meant I needed two vehicles and guides and one of the guides had to spend a day on the road and one night before my arrival--boosting the cost.

Tips were in addition to the above price as was my Cadbury chocolate bar.

Had I opted for less expensive lodging in Samburu; traded down from Mara Serena; and driven the whole way with one guide/vehicle instead of taking a flight, which would have altered the itinerary somewhat; a trip of the same length would have been around $6700. I still think that would have been a marvelous safari at even greater savings.

One thing I liked about E&S is that I could get price breakdowns and even when I indicated a willingness to go for a higher cost option, they still discussed lower cost possibilities and didn't lock me in at the higher level.

E&S did offer a banda and chef option outside of the Maasai Mara (don't think it was KWS lodging) where you could go into the park during the day, but I wanted to be in the particular areas of the park that I chose and was willing to pay to do so. If I were staying longer in the Mara, I would have considered the Mara banda/chef option for a several night stay. If I were going during non-migration times or was not trying to see a river crossing, I'd also consider the less costly banda/chef option in the Mara.

Let me mention that Mara Serena books up early due to its good location. It was 100% booked during my 4 nights in mid-Sept. Also the bandas have so few rooms that you may want to get those reserved if you decide to use them. Samburu Simba & Shaba Sarova had plenty of availability. I was surprised. Even Fig Tree had openings. But not Mara Serena.

Although the itinerary was perfect for me, if this is a first trip to Kenya, you may wish to make a few modifications to the itinerary I chose. For example:

4 nights in the Shaba/Samburu area is a lot. I wanted to maximize time with the uniqe species there, which I did. You could spend 3 nights and still stay 1 night longer than most itineraries.

I did not include a day in NBO on this trip, but I sure did on my first trip. Not only is it a good buffer day but there are unique attractions there both cultural and nature.

A tree hotel with a floodlit waterhole is cool. The 2 nights I spent in Aberdare at Fishing Lodge did not include that. You could do one night in Fishing Lodge and one night at The Ark or Treetops in Aberdare. The waterhole attracts the forest species and lures them out of seclusion.

You could enjoy the Mara with less than the 8 nights in my itinerary (on the other hand, you could make things easy and just go to the Mara for your whole trip, maybe 3 or 4 locations) and that would free up nights for other places like Amboseli with views (hopefully) of Kilimanjaro or Nakuru with its flamingo flocks and white rhinos.

Good luck in planning those solo trips.

Great information Lynn. Maybe I could afford another trip if I leave my husband at home and go solo!

Another fantastic report Lynn! You seem to have thought of everything another trip planner would want to know.

I've been waiting for this report, checking Fodor's and also safaritalk, thinking "<i>When</i> will Lynn post her report?"

But of course your reports are so excellent--well worth the wait.

I found Ben hilarious. Did he tell you about his vintage VW Bug?

Hi travelynn
Thank you so much for your prompt and detailed reply that is extremely useful.
I think that a trip that would include amboseli the mara and nakuru and a day in Nairobi would be the basis of an excellant first trip
I would probably spend 3 nights in Amboseli. 7-8 in the mara and maybe 2 in the Nakuru area . I prefer to spend more time in fewer locations and less time getting to many different spots

Thanks again Sandy
By the way which agent did you work with in E and S?

Boaz was the E&S contact. I agree that more time in fewer places makes for a good trip.

Some people return to Africa because they missed wild dogs, leopard, a pangolin, etc. I'll have to return to hear the vintage VW story firsthand. I was a little tardy with this report but I gave myself 60 days to make the first installment and fulfilled the deadline.

How would your husband feel about that arrangement Raelond?


**********ABERDARE***********
From the Eastern and Southern office in Nairobi to the entrance of Aberdare National Park = 3.5 hours and that includes 25 minutes of stops along the way.

From the park entrance gate to Fishing Lodge Bandas takes between 2.25 and 5 hours depending on vehicle breakdowns, rain, waterfall walks, and wildlife viewing. (Fishing Lodge is described in detail above under “Bandas are the Bargain of Kenya”)

The first wildlife of the trip, besides the Marabu Storks in Nairobi, were two impalas at the Aberdare park entrance. These would be the only impala we would see in Aberdare because the forested terrain does not suit them. Not long after the first impala, we had the first raindrops of what was to be 30 millimeters of rainfall that afternoon and evening.

To break up this long drive on Day 1 we had a picnic lunch at the Muringato River where an African Black Duck and ducklings were paddling around. Fortunately that was pre-deluge.

To fully appreciate the stunning habitat of Aberdare, it is necessary to spend more time in the park than a short visit to one of the “tree hotels,” The Ark or Treetops. A 2-night stay at Fishing Lodge is perfect.

Between the park gate to Fishing Lodge Banda, the distinctive zones include:
Ecotone (transition from grassland to heavier foliage, Park Gate is here)
Broadleaf
Broadleaf-Croton
Croton
Bamboo
Rosewood
Moorland—where Fishing Lodge is located

Aberdare is known for “The Salient,” the lush, thick forest, which spans from about Broadleaf-Croton zone to the Rosewood Forest and is inhabited by a variety of lesser seen creatures, such as Sykes Monkeys, Black and White Colobus Monkeys, and Giant Forest Hog—and I saw all of these. I was especially thrilled with the 4 Giant Forest Hog Sightings.

Some of the troops of Sykes were shy and retreated into the forest when our vehicle approached, but other troops went about their business on the side of the road for 30 minutes while I watched. These are very attractive creatures, even more striking than the Golden Monkeys that share the gorilla’s habitat in Rwanda.

The Salient must have more Bushbucks per kilometer than anywhere and its rich vegetation results in Bushbucks the size of Waterbucks, and Waterbuck-sized Warthogs as well. Shy Duikers appeared now and then, especially at the higher elevations, and we even got a quick view of a large, dark colored leopard as it sprinted across the road.

On our trip out of the park, I mentioned it was a humorous coincidence that the two buffalos I was trying to photograph both decided to defecate simultaneously. Ben explained that it was no coincidence and they intended to do that to show aggression. Since the aggression was directed at us, it could quickly turn into no laughing matter, so we kept our distance and did not linger.

I saw 2 distant elephants and no rhino. The waterholes and salt licks of The Ark or Treetops would probably attract more eles and rhino and allow for better visibility of them.

The birding coup of the trip occurred in Aberdare and I know it is a coup because Bird Guide Ben wanted pictures that I took of the Crowned Eagle. We had over half a dozen sightings of this magnificent species, in pairs, on a nest and we even had audio when we heard a Crowned Eagle chick, hidden in its nest, calling to the parents.

My daylong excursion in Aberdare was in a 4x4 Land Rover owned by William who specializes in trips to Mt. Kenya and Aberdare. An armed KWS ranger joined us and was necessary for the hikes. E&S Guide Ben went too. One thing that really impressed me about these three guys was on our walks if there was any litter, they picked it up.

Our 10.5-hour outing included three easy hikes to three waterfalls: Karuru, Magura, Chania. With 6 trained eyes, plus mine, no Giant Forest Hog or anything else escaped us! This was a fantastic way to become immersed in the habitats of Aberdare National Park and The Salient it is known for, and to view the wildlife that call it home. What a worthwhile, quality outing. Truly, one of Kenya’s finer offerings!

For tips, I gave William the same as I would give my regular driver/guide for a full day of service. I gave the KWS employee ¼ of that since he’d be working somewhere in the park anyway. I considered that day as a regular work day for Ben, my E&S guide, when calculating his tip at the end of the trip.

The cost of arranging a day trip like this with an extra 4x4, driver, and armed escort was much less than I thought, maybe a couple hundred dollars or less. When I learned that William arrived the night before through pouring rain and stayed with the KWS staff so we could depart promptly the next day, and then drove back down through rain, dark, and ele herds, it was even more of a bargain.

<u>Other vehicles and photos</u>
All photos were taken with no other vehicles in sight. During my 3 days and 2 nights in Aberdare, I saw only 4 other vehicles going the opposite direction on the road, so we crossed paths for just a few seconds.

The album has 25 pictures of Aberdare, #4-#6 are of Fishing Lodge Banda.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Violette...PvTpbCH1e7rNw#


<u>Interesting Birds in Aberdare:</u>
Hartelaub Turacao
Scaly Francolin
Jackson’s Francolin
Montane Wagtail
Streaky Seedeater
Crowned Eagle
Hunter’s Cisticola
White Eyed Slaty Flycatcher
Alpine Chat
Stone Chat
Lesser Spotted Eagle
Montane Buzzard
Golden Winged Sunbird
Gymnogene
Crimson Tufted Sunbird

Your reports are always fun to read Lynn. I love the Jane Hathaway character. Would have loved to strike up a conversation with her/him. We ran across similar types on the river crossing from Zambia to Chobe. It was Sadie Hawkins Day apparently because this duo was dressed EXACTLY alike, head to toe in perfectly pressed dark green safari getups straight ut of central casting. The myrad chest pockets, bush belts nd fedoras, turned up on one side Aussie-style, with faux leopard bands. No knives though. Can't believe I didn't get a picture.

Wow! What an informative report especially for this solo, soon to be 1st timer.

Note to self- no gherkin talk at buffet :)

"To think that prior to my first safari in 1994 I was so concerned about wearing the proper khaki colors that I worried my white socks might scare away the animals if light reflected off of my ankles at the floor of the vehicle. Despite my agent’s assurance that would not be the case, I wanted to take no chances and dyed my five pairs of white socks beige."

This cracked me up and so sounds like me right now stressing over the khaki clothing requirement. Made worse by not having a single beige piece in my closet and then wondering what to do with all that beige after safari. Now reading this I'm not going to stress so much.

KathBC, how soon?

LALeslie, I wonder if anyone will believe either of our eccentric human sightings without photo proof.

atravelynn - I love all of your reports. There is such joy in all of your experiences - the great, the good and not so good. Thanks for reminding me why I love to travel. You should write professionally (if you don't already).

I've still got a bit of a wait...end of May 2011.

Plenty of time to check out more beige! ;) Hey maybe I can just dye it when I get home!?

I so enjoy your reports, Lynn. I'm jealous that you met up with Sonali but won't visit the natives across the border. We'll put on pith helmets if that's an incentive. Maybe even a blond wig. No photos though.

Lynn, this report is fascinating! I'm with KathBC on the chuckles over the beige clothing (I bought a LOT of it for my upcoming trip), but the other details were most helpful, too.

It's great to get a sense of the length of the mid-day breaks; you've convinced me that I should bring the adapter to recharge my Nook batteries, as it's entirely possible I'll read enough to drain them during my stay. (I had considered only bringing the plug converter on the belief that I shouldn't need the adapter if all I was recharging was my camera batteries, but I probably shouldn't risk that.) I'm going to try to just sit and do nothing for at least part of the breaks -- I seem to have lost my ability simply to relax lately -- but the Nook (and notebooks, etc.) will be good to have, too.

And thanks for the tip about the beanbag. I keep forgetting to pack one, but I am adding it to my packing list right now. I just hope I come back with photos half as nice as some of y'all who have posted in this forum; they're lovely.

Bookmarking - very enjoyable report

Re bean bag, is this used strictly for attached long lenses?

My camera doesn't have any lenses to be attached so I'm trying to visualize what exactly the bean bag is used for and if I would have need of one.

Wow , your really had a great trip .

Very Good, lovely reading and lots of detail .

I don't think I missed any of your trip reports and I sure enjoyed this one.

I will keeping following.
Thanks for letting us all know about your adventure !

The Crowned Eagle is quite impressive.

So are the bandas. They look really nice, like a cabin in Yosmemite or something. What was the bug-invasion situation in the bandas like? (In Rwanda at Kinigi Guest House your tip about pushing your duffel up against the gap between door and floor served me very well.)

What a nice compliment Christabir, but nothing professional.

I'm making a 2011 resolution Marija and can't wait to see you in a pith helmet.

Windowless, everybody gets great photos and you will too.

KathBC, no changeable lenses for me either. You set your camera on the bean bag on top of the vehicle or on the open window. It steadies the camera, even with image stabilization.

You had quite the adventures too Percy.

Leely, I recall that mind the gap advice. Glad it kept the insects out. Fishing Lodge in Aberdare was too high up and cold for insects and I don't remember any in Kinnas Bandas. I slept under the mosquito net each night.

Hi travelynn

Another question-as I am not entirely clear. When you are at a camp that has vehicles and guides (as most do I think) and you arrive with your own driver/vehicle-does that mean that you use your own driver/guide or the one of the camp? And if you use your own, is it cheaper for the stay as you do not use that camp's guide and vaehicle? Basically you pay only for room and board and save on the cost of safari?
If you use your own driver/guide, where do they sleep and I suppose that this is all calculated into the cost?
Also- If you are using one driver/guide , are they as proficient in sightings and where to go in many different areas as the guides in the private camps who basically stay in that one region?
thanks Sandy

you are basically answering your own question Sandy; the camp guides are more experienced in that particular area most of the time, so people tend to use them. Especially because they are included in the price and as far as I know its not possible to pay less and use your own driver. When I was in Tanzania we did a mix of both; in some areas using our own vehicle and guide (also to be in full control what were doing) and in other areas using the camps vehicle.

Hi travelynn,
Great report so far and I too, have been eagerly awaiting it. I have a question on your lodge picks in the Mara. You suggested that 3 or 4 lodges might be a good idea if time permits. What would your choice be after Fig Tree and Serena areas and would it make a difference if you were going in the Jan./Feb. time frame. I'm thinking about Kenya and Rwanda for 2012. I'm considering just flying into the Mara and then the gorillas for about 2 weeks. Can you fly onward from the Mara or do you have to return to Nairobi? This would be my 5th safari if that helps (3 Tanzania, 1 Botswana). Any thoughts? Thanks.

Sb1020,
If you arrive by road with your own guide and vehicle, then you use them. You do not use the camp's guide and vehicle because you have your own.

If you fly to the camp/lodge and are picked up by the camp/lodge staff, then you use the guide and vehicle from the camp. That means you either share with others doing the same thing or if you arrange in advance and pay extra, you have the camp's guide and vehicle to yourself.

You can also have your own guide/vehicle that is not employed by the place you are visiting drive to the airstrip and meet you when you get off the flight. That guide and vehicle stays with you during your stay.

I've done all of these and they all have produced good results. On this trip I left from NBO with and E&S guide Ben, and vehicle and visited Aberdare, Meru, Shaba, and Samburu. It was an unusual arrangement to have William in his own 4x4 take me on a separate outing in Aberdare with both my E&S guide and me as "passengers."

Then I flew from Samburu to Mara and Ben drove back on his own. Guide Raphael was there at the airstrip to meet me in an E&S vehicle and we stayed together the whole time and he drove me back to NBO and dropped me off at the airport.

You have a question on what is least expensive. Ans: probably flying to the camp/lodge and sharing a camp/lodge guide and vehicle with others. If I had flown to Fig Tree and Mara and shared a vehicle, that part of the trip would have been less expensive.

But one thing to consider is that some of the camps that routinely employ that fly-in and use our camp vehicle/guide arrangement are inherently more expensive than the lodges where you arrive with your own guide. They are more expensive for a variety of reasons: They may own their own concession and offer greater privacy and seclusion because no one else besides the camp's guests can use it; the smaller, exclusive, more remote and personal tented camps are more expensive to run; there may be more expensive food, drink and amenities; and you pay for the guide's intimate knowledge of the area that is gained by remaining in a confined region.

The added expense can provide added value to your safari, it just depends on your budget. You also have to decide whether you'd rather have your own private safari than sharing at a camp/lodge and then figure what you're willing to spend or forego to afford that luxury.

So many decisions--but check the reports, nobody ever comes back and says, I screwed up my safari by choosing x over y. It's all good. The only screw ups I've seen involve people choosing really cheap shady operators.

The arrangements for your guide/driver are part of your original quote. Each camp/lodge has accommodations for the guide. I noted at the bandas the guide and chef stayed on the other end of the banda. Usually they have their own village.

Local vs. Circuit Guides: The guides who stay in one area usually have an advantage over roving guides because they know that one area extremely well. However, most experienced circuit guides from reputable companies travel to these parks repeatedly so they are not out of their element. The guides also communicate a lot with each other so they share the important stuff.

Part of a good experience is having a guide that can spot animals and that can read signs/spoor to help locate animals. It's not like the animals always hang out in one secret place that only the local guides know.

Nikao, Did you arrive at a camp with your own vehicle and driver, but use the camp's guide and driver instead? I have used local rangers that hop in the vehicle along with us (especially in Uganda) but have not exchanged my own vehicle/guide for one at the camp. I'd like to know more about that.

Wildlife Painter, You cannot fly from the Mara to Rwanda on scheduled flights. Maybe you could in your own plane.

I have not been to Kenya in Jan/Feb, but I think it is less important to be near the Mara River at that time because you won't see a wildebeest crossing and there will be many other sources of water for the animals. Twaffle had a fantastic trip at that time of year at Serian, which is pretty close to the Mara River. I think she is planning a repeat.

That would make a good question as its own post and I'd be interested in the responses. Where to stay in the Mara in Jan/Feb?

One thing I had considered about a future green season trip that I may take some day is staying closer to the park entrance from Nairobi, which is usually less expensive. It's less expensive because it can get more crowded. But Jan/Feb is not the busy season. It is also less expensive because animal concentration tends to be closer to the river, but the rains make water more widely available and tend to disperse the animals so why pay a premium for river front property?

I'd like to know what other people who travel in Jan/Feb think about that strategy. Or where they suggest to stay.

What also would sway me in Jan/Feb was deals being offered by various camps.

Mara and gorillas would be a great combo!


<i>I'll resume the report after Thanksgiving.</i>

*****************MERU*****************

From the Aberdare Park entrance to the Meru Park Entrance = 5.5 hours including stops totaling 1 hour. From the park entrance to Kinnas Bandas = 30 minutes. Kinnas Bandas are described in detail above under “Bandas are the Bargain of Kenya!” but here are some additional Kinnas details:

In my 3 nights there, the KWS staff offered to change the bedding.

Midday was extremely hot in Meru (I’m guessing 90+ F) but the bandas remained cool and comfortable inside. The windows had curtains that could be pulled back for breeze or pulled shut over the screens at night.

There was a lovely outdoor patio where we ate our meals, surprisingly without harassment from tse tses or anything else. I was told that Elsa’s is located in a higher tse tse intense area than Kinnas. I can’t attest to tse tses at Elsa’s, but they were not bad at all at Kinnas.

Nor were the tse tses a real discomfort when I was standing up in the open-topped moving vehicle. They caused much more discomfort for Ben, who was confined to the dark interior. He brought a horse tail attached to a stick as a swatter.

If not visiting Elsa’s grave while in Meru makes me a bad person, then so be it, but I did not pay my respects. We did drive by Pippa’s grave, an Adamson cheetah. Maybe that brought good cheetah karma for Meru, where we surprisingly saw a pair. I also did not visit the rhino sanctuary because I was on a Lesser Kudu mission, but the sanctuary would be another plus for a Meru visit.

The evidence of lions was a constant yet we never saw any in Meru, so it was as if the mysterious spirit of Elsa was ever present but invisible. We’d hear them loud and clear at night and see numerous sets of tracks on every road. We even heard a chase around our banda at night and saw the tracks the next day.

<u>Lowdown on Lesser Kudu</u>
I kept track of the Lesser Kudus I saw and photographed for any other Lesser Kudu enthusiasts who may contemplating a visit to Meru. Though they are abundant in Meru, they are not easy to see (thank goodness for Ben’s sharp eyes) and even harder to get a picture of due to their shy nature and preference for browsing in thick brush.

Drive #1 in evening as we entered park: 0
Drive #2 in morning: 1 male, photographable

Drive #3 in afternoon: Herd of 1 adult male and 1 young male with 3 females and 2 fawns running along road, all photographable; 1 female with fawn, no photos

Drive #4 in morning: 1 female, no photos; 2 males and 2 females, no photos

Drive #5 in afternoon: 1 male that I did not see but Ben saw;1 male and 4 females, no photos; 2 males and 4 females, no photos; mother and fawn, no photos; 1 male looking at a cheetah!! looking at a giraffe!!, photographable

Drive #6 in morning: 1 male, photographable

<purple><b>QUOTE OF THE TRIP</b>
I am crediting myself with the quote of the trip in the form of a one-woman Way, Way, Way Off Broadway play.

SETTING
Kinnas Banda bathroom

TIME
Immediately after the short rains, so to speak

ATRAVELYNN (in monologue)
“What the hell?!”

(Atravelynn exits stage left and the bathroom is empty for a moment. She returns promptly with a pair of reading glasses and peers into the toilet bowl.)

ATRAVELYNN (in monologue)
“There’s a lizard in my toilet!”

The End
</purple>

Specifically it was a baby agama, about 3 inches long. Apparently it had lost its grip on the ceiling and had taken a plunge.

The fact that a small lizard appeared in my banda toilet should in no way reflect poorly on the banda itself. The lovely Mara Serena lodge had many tiny lizards gripping the walls. Lizards can be found adorning the canvas of the finest luxury tented camps throughout Africa, adding to charm and contributing to the safari ambiance. The agama in the commode is completely a function of one reptile’s momentary lapse of suction and not a function of the caliber of the establishment.

I did not take a picture of this poor creature in the toilet bowl for documentation because (a) I thought it would be in poor taste and (b) any delay could further jeopardize the survival of the lizard.

The one act play turned into an action adventure as I raced outside to find a long stick, rushed back to the bathroom, and thrust the stick into the toilet bowl. The agama immediately grabbed onto this lifeline and I was able to lift it out of danger and whisk it outside.

I gently placed the stick with the tightly clinging agama on the ground. Nothing happened. Oh no, had the cold water taken its toll on the little reptile? Was I too late in my rescue attempt? Ben assured me the agama just needed time to warm up in the sun. At this point I did snap a photo and it is #22 in the Meru album. In a flash the young agama darted off and as it fled, tears streamed down my cheeks and a song welled up in my breast and then sprang from my lips…

<b><i>“Born free, as free as the wind blows, as free as the grass grows, born free to follow your heart!”</b></i>

The tears and my crooning in the bush are silly figments of my imagination, but I did mention to Ben that it would be funny to sing the Born Free song as the lizard ran off.

How fitting that I would enact my own little Born Free saga in Meru, the land of Elsa.

Moral of the play: Keep the toilet lid shut.

Oh, you're too funny! Back for reading glasses for a better look, perfect! Thanks for a big laugh on cleanning day. I'll hum a little Born Free while I vacum.

Lol... Reminds me of my own experience where we heard something running in circles through our tent, but couldnt see what it was as it was before sunset... Like scared children we sat on the bed just until the creature jumped in the toilet compartment. I rushed out to shut that compartment and we told the staff 'something' was in our tent. Didnt see the creature since we had to go on a game drive, but the staff told us it was a giant beatle .. Lol

Nikao,
Do you know if the beetle was freed or flushed?


Wildlifepainter
Just doing my little part to make the post-Thanksgiving cleanup a little easier.