Puku Ridge-avoid
 

I've read a few messages about this place. I stayed here last year and would not recommend it. While the camp itself is okay (we were the only ones staying there), the food is very average and more importantly there are serious flaws when it comes to safety. The guy who runs it does not seem to prioritize safety. For example, he did not carry a radio with him whilst on a walk. On another occassion, again on a walk, we watched some hippos in a river below. A hippo proceeded to then chase us. The guy with the gun was some old guy who could barely walk and did not think quick enough to shoot. The guide (also the guy who runs the camp) then proceeded to abandon us and ran way ahead of us whilst he should have put himself between the hippo and us. Fortunately my family found some grass to hide behind and the hippo proceed to run past us (about 30 feet away).
The point is that while you have to accept some degree of risk on safari, this can be minimized by the guide taking appropriate precautions to avoid this kind of situation, which is what they took at other camps such as Chiawa.

Laguna,

What was the name of the guy who runs the camp?

I was at Chichele Presidential Lodge, Puku Ridge's sister lodge located less than 2 miles away, in early June, and there was a young woman who was managing Puku Ridge. I suppose she could have been half of a managing couple, while her partner was away at the time I was there.

A full trip report would be appreciated. When exactly did you visit? For how many nights? Did you visit any other South Luangwa camps?

I find it surprising that the food at Puku Ridge would be bad, because at Chichele it was possibly the best food I have had while on safari, and this includes Singita. I can tell you that the service at Chichele was even better than Singita.

However, it is worth noting that I did stay at Kulefu Tented Camp, Star Of Africa's camp in Lower Zambezi, and I thought that the food was very average, the supplies were minimal and the location of the camp was not good. Star Of Africa's website says that they are relocating the tents to be along the Zambezi in time for this season, building a swimming pool and are upgrading to more luxurious tents so maybe it will be improved for this year, but I would much rather take my chances with Kasaka River Lodge which is a beautiful camp in a much more convenient location, a mere 10 minutes from Royal Zambezi airstrip.

I saw as many elephants transferring between Royal Zambezi airstrip to Kasaka River Lodge (where a speedboat was waiting to take us 90 minutes away to Kulefu Tented Camp) as I did in my whole 4 night stay at Kulefu. I was told by the former manager of Kulefu, Ian, who is now a guide at Kaingo, that Kulefu is an excellent area for wildlife, but that things don't really get started until about August as the weather warms.

Anyway, please share more about your time at Puku Ridge, as I know there are Fodorites scheduled to visit there now and we would all appreciate learning more about your experience.

Thanks.

I was there in late August. Game was good. I did go up the hill to Chichele and it looked very nice. I did like the rustic feel of Puku and the position/view. I was there three nights. I beleive the name of the guy running it was Rogers.
This was the only camp I visited in S Luangwa. Food was about 100 times better at Chiawa.

laguna92688,
My wife and I are scheduled to go to Puku Ridge in Sept. Please tell us more of your experiences and be as specific as you can. The lack of safety and lack of respect for the clients greatly disturbs us. Puku Ridge came highly recommended by others on this board as did Star Of Africa in general.
Thanks for your help.
Mike

Hi Mike,
We were there for three nights in August. The fact that we were the only guests there was an initial indication that something was not quite right. This compared to a full camp in Chiawa.
The safety issue was a big one. Rogers who ran the camp and was the only person to take people out on drives just didn't seem to take it seriously. I remember one occassion when we asked him why he didn't take a radio on walks and his response was something along the lines that he should but didnt care what the rules were.
As you may know there are some strange rules in Zambia around who can carry a weapon. I believe that the only person who can has to be a national parks employee. We were accompanied on our walks by Rogers and this guy who must have been close to 60 and he just didn't seem to have a clue-read the hippo story earlier.After the inclident we did write to Puku and there only offer of compensation was a free night. There is no way that I would set foot there again. Unless something is done somebody is going to die or at least get seriously injured. I'd think twice about it.

Sorry you had such a bad and dangerous experience! How did you come to pick this camp?

This really illustrates somthing I have said before, that if a camp is offering superdeals during high season, BEWARE!! (this is not the same as off-season deals...) It is simply silly to pick camps based on brochures, internet research (unless you have talked to a reliable person who has been there recently) and great pricing deals.
The best camps don't offer them during high season, because they are full.

I stayed at 2 camps run by this operator (Lechwe Plains & Kulefu) in 2003, I had a wonderful time at both--but I was the only person at Lechwe Plains... and Kulefu looked very tired, even in 2003)

Some troubling things happened after that, with the biggest indicator being that they were offering cutrate deals during the high season. It sounds (from laguna's story) like they are not able to attract and keep quality staff-- there could be management issues, money issues or both.
In Zambia, the scouts (with rifles) are ZAWA employees, but it seems that the management of the camp does have a great deal of influence (if not control) over the scouts. If a camp doesn't have good guides, they won't have good scouts either. In fairness to Zambia's scouts, I have had nothing but EXCELLENT experiences with them, and I've been to many places in Zambia over several years. If anything, they have been cautious and protective to a fault.

I might be willing to spend a night or two at a place like this to give it a chance, but I would NOT build a vacation around it...experiences like this make or break your expensive holiday.
PS--Roccco, this is the type of concern that I have about Luangwa River Lodge. New, not local, unproven. Don't know who they have been able to hire as management or guides. I'm not saying they are bad...I'm just saying they have absolutely no track record or experience, and I don't know a single person who has stayed there. Being nice when you are making reservations doesn't count...it's just not the most important thing about running a camp.
Caveat emptor...

d110pickup,

You could always consider dropping Puku Ridge in favor of Luangwa River Lodge. Although I originally was going to do both Puku Ridge and Luangwa River Lodge, I ended up selecting Luangwa River Lodge only.

Here is what convinced me...scroll down to the post dated November 25th in this link:

http://tagasafaris.mywowbb.com/forum1/23-1.html

I appreciate what Tasha is saying about going with more established lodges, but I have heard mixed reviews of Robin Pope Safaris, kind of along the lines that it is great when RP is around to supervise, and not necessarily as great when he is not.

You already have a fine choice in Kaingo & Mwamba, but you will need some luxury after 6 nights with Kaingo / Mwamba, and perhaps with this new information on Puku Ridge, it may be time to consider a switch. Had Nic Polenakis stayed with Chichele Presidential Lodge, I would have endorsed Chichele, but since he is gone, I am not able to do so.

Although Luangwa River Lodge is definitely a wild card, at least it is personally run by the owners, Barry & Tara. That goes a looooong way towards guaranteeing a nice stay.

I would be surprised if Star Of Africa yet has any of your deposit, so you would likely still be able to switch, if that is your desire, without penalty.

It is worth noting, additionally, that Luangwa River Lodge would be only $350 per person per night, compared to, I believe, $400 pppn at Puku Ridge.

Lastly, here is a review of Luangwa River Lodge from The Lowdown magazine, a monthly Zambian publication that features one lodge in each issue:

http://luangwariverlodge.com/reviews.htm

I would not panic yet about Puku Ridge, but there is always a luxurious backup in Luangwa River Lodge. However, since you are going at the height of high season (late September, I believe), I would make a decision one way or the other as soon as possible.

Also BushCampCompany is a local, well-established company with great, beautiful camps and lodges and a very reliable, safe reputation. I have stayed as 2 of their camps, and know several people who have stayed at the other 2. They have very well-established guides (Phil Berry is one of the two top guides in Zambia, and may be the very best. Although they have 4 camps, the owner is VERY involved in operations in all of them. Be aware however, that these camps (other than Mfuwe Lodge) specialize in walking, and while there are drive opportunities, this will not be the major part of your activities.

Also, I've stayed at all the Robin Pope camps, several times, and know that they have a very loyal return clientele, AND they are always full in high season. So while Roccco may know a person or two who gave mixed reviews, it it hardly the situation that he describes. (In fact, Roccco, weren't you dreaming about a stay at Robins House, which is a private house at Nkwali camp, and didn't you post a really rave review from a knowledgeable friend of yours who stayed there? I think Roccco is miffed because , being that RPS is always full, they will not negotiate discounts directly with travellers! That may be a pain if you like to arrange your own travel, but on the other hand, it does indicate that people not only pay the RPS price, they happily do it again & again on return trips.)

Finally, John Coppingers camps always get great reviews (Tafika is in South Luangwa). Haven't stayed here, but have heard from tourists and locals that they were very happy.

And unlike Luangwa River Lodge, these places have established reputations with people who have worked in safari camps in Zambia for years. That doesn't mean I wouldn't go to Luangwa River Lodge (I'd like to try it sometime) it just means that I wouldn't build a whole Zambia itinerary around a lodge the (like Puku Ridge!!!) is built/run by newbies who are not from the area!! (In fact Star has lots more experience, because they ran safaris in Zim before moving to Zambia...and look at all the "kinks" in their new operations...

We are in process of loking at the other lodges. Kapani has availability for the days we need. Checking into Luangwa River Lodge also. Anyone who has stayed at these lodges, please let us know. Another alternaitve is one of the lodges in Lower Zambezi such as Old Mondoro or Chiawa or Sausage Tree -- Has anyone stayed at these? We are at Kasaka for 4 nights already and the Kaingo - Mwamba camps for 6 nights. Trying to fill in the three nights in between. Thanks

Tasha,

Actually, I have friends who stayed at Nkwali and loved it. Curiously enough, they stayed there because they were able to cut quite a good deal and get a direct booking. However, it is worth noting that they were a family of nine, but it was still cheaper than Star Of Africa was willing to do for them.

With 6 nights that will be previously spent at Kaingo & Mwamba, I just thought it would be nice for mpkp and d110pickup to enjoy the personal service and luxury that they are more likely to receive at Luangwa River Lodge than at Robin Pope Safaris.

No doubt about it, at RPS, there will be more experienced people there. However, Luangwa River Lodge is doing things their own way, and I can appreciate that. My wife does things similarly with her business. Rather than hiring an experienced person (or as she says, a "corrupted" person), she would much rather train someone with little or no experience to meet her own (higher) standards.

Perhaps this is not what everyone is looking for, but I love the fact that the guides are excused for dinner. Not to sound like a snob, but I will get enough of dinner with the guides at the other lodges, and I very much appreciate the fact that I will be hosted, instead, by a well-educated, well-traveled British couple that is roughly my own age.

How many times has dinner conversation been forced with guides while dining? I mean beyond the flora and fauna, what conversation do you share with a guide whom has never set foot outside of Africa and has few or none of the life experiences that we, as wealthy westerners or northerners have come to know?

One day I would love to visit Tena Tena and Nkwali, but for a 3 night stay that will follow 3 nights at Kaingo and 3 nights at Mwamba, now that Puku Ridge has seemingly dropped the ball, I think that Luangwa River Lodge would be an excellent choice. Bushcamp Company seems like a quality operation, but they already have their bushcamp in Mwamba.

However, I do not think they could go wrong with either Nkwali or Luangwa River Lodge. I just think that availability at Nkwali may pose a problem at this point, and again think that Luangwa River Lodge will offer a nice luxurious and personalized experience that would complement the Kaingo/Mwamba experience very well.

Tashak,

You make a good point re the guides at Luangwa River Lodge (or Tamarind as it is still known as locally). When we were at Nkwali & Kapani this year we asked how a new lodge finds their guides. The feedback was that in the off-season they use the "spare" guides from the more established places (I think these are the guides that are usually at the various bushcamps associated with the main camps). However once the peak season comes and the bushcamps open, all these guides go back to the bush camps. Both the managers at the two places we stayed commented that they didn't really know where Tamarind would get its guides from during the peak season.

So Roccco, if you haven't already done so, I urge you to ask about who the guides will be during the time you are there and where they trained / what experience they have.

Also it's worth adding that the impression we got is that there is definitely a "career path" for guides - Rocky is a good example; he started at Mfuwe Lodge, moved to Kafunta, then to RPS where he is the main guide at Tena Tena when it opens and at Nkwali during the off-season.

Call me naive, but I also think that the guests have plenty of influence over the guides. For one second I will not tolerate a guide that I believe is putting me in danger on a bush walk or game drive. Canoeing is harder to gauge the danger on, because, after all, you are getting into a little canoe in a very big river with an incredibly high number of crocs and hippos all around.

Canoeing in the Zambezi is more of a thrill sport, if you ask me, tantamount to bungee jumping or sky diving. I will not deny that I feared for my life while at Kulefu, but this was my own choice as I jumped into the canoe with Morad, the most fearless guide I have yet met, not once, but twice. However, Morad's actions were never without my own consent, although had he done the same thing with another person, it may have well led to someone posting a similarly negative report about Kulefu.

I had my own issues with Kulefu that I have previously reported, but my time in the canoe with Morad was one of the few highlights at Kulefu.

So, simply put, I do think that guests have to let the guides know what is and what is not acceptable to them. I have a feeling that I likely went on a bush walk with the very same national park scout, but my walks were led by Nic Polenakis, a very experienced guide who is the best guide I have ever had. My point is not to blame the guest, but I am saying that I think I will have more of a command of the situation while with my assigned guide.

I spent four days with Rocky at Kafunta, and while he was a competent guide, he did not strike as a "great" guide. He was very nice, but soft spoken and I definitely consider Josephatt who has remained at Kafunta to be a better guide than Rocky. So, just because Rocky is at Nkwali now and Josephatt is still at Kafunta, I don't think that says anything about their ability.

This message is for Mpkp.
Last June my husband & I spend 3 nights at Chiawa, 4 nights at Sausage Tree and 2 nights at Old Mondaro. My prefered camp is Sausage Tree hands down; Jason & Kelly were outstanding host/hostess. Nothing was too much trouble for them. They always greeted us with a smile and offered us an ice cold drink when we returned back to camp after our daily exsurions of fishing, walking, canoeing, game drive or cruising around the river. Matter of fact we're returning this June for 6 nights!!! I love this place!

I enjoyed both Chiawa & Old Mondaro, but my favorite was Sausage Tree. If you wish, pls drop me a line at [email protected] for additional information.

PS to Roccco: I absolutely LOVE the fact that you do immense amounts of research which you are willing to share, and I respect your spirit of adventure about trying new places and camps. We are all looking forward to your reports after your upcoming trip...now if you would always just add "I haven't been here yet, but this looks good to me for these reasons"...just like you did in the previous post in this thread...well then I would never have reason to disagree with you!! (Wink, wink, friendly nudge!)

Thanks. We have heard back with no problems cancelling the reservation at puku ridge. Now we just need to figure out where we want to stay for those few days. Will let you know.

Just to set things straight, Rodgers has been fired and his problems shouldn't be held against this lovely camp.

I am looking forward to my 3 nights at Puku Ridge with great anticipation. After originally switching to Luangwa River Lodge, I will now be splitting 6 nights between Luangwa River Lodge and Puku Ridge.

Given the fact that this is said to be a very dry year, I expect to enjoy incredible game viewing right from camp. There are very few lodges that enjoy the incredible view of Puku Ridge. Their swimming pool is also pretty great! :)

http://www.star-of-africa.com/gallery/pukuss.htm

Pleased that Rodgers has gone. Nevertheless I'd recommend a good deal of caution - it's taken Star of Africa an age to respond to some really serious issues - no walking safety briefing, no radio, no first aid kit, incompetent guard, abject night drives, real danger. Although Rodgers may have left, you have to ask whether there is any system in place to make certain that things are now ok. I don't spook easily - a couple of Zambezi canoe safaris and a lot of walking will bear that out - but Puku Ridge was not acceptable at all

I stayed at Phil Berry's bushcamp, Kuyenda, which is in the general area of Puku Ridge and loved it! While Bushcamp Co. is known for their walking safaris, we did game drives at all the camps...no problem for them. Another camp of theirs is Chamilandu, which is right on the banks of the Luangwa River. I'd recommend any of their camps.

uksafarigoer,

I have had only excellent guiding while at two different Star Of Africa camps.

At Chichele Presidential Lodge, Nic Polenakis is the finest guide I have ever experienced. I could be wrong but he may be a silent shareholder in Star Of Africa. He is not at Chichele or any other Star Of Africa camp this year, but I have not allowed that to dissuade me from ending my Zambian safari at Puku Ridge. It is just an incredibly beautiful tented camp. Each tent is enormous, features a sunken bath, an incredible balcony, as well as an indoor shower and an outdoor shower. I don't know any South Luangwa camp that offers better views.

While I was at Kulefu Tented Camp, their Lower Zambezi property, again the guiding was excellent. Unfortunately I arrived too early in the season for quality game viewing in Lower Zambezi (early June), but each Andy and Morad were excellent guides.

Star Of Africa is not perfect and could improve in some areas, but I have no issues against their guiding or the interior design of their camps.

Also, it is important to note that the vehicles at Chichele and Puku Ridge that I saw were all newer Land Rovers and very comfortable in comparison to some other vehicles at South Luangwa camps that I have visited and the other vehicles I have seen on the road.

Another positive about Star Of Africa is that I found them to be completely flexible and not at all regimented. While at Kulefu I was able to do morning game drives, mid afternoon canoeing and night game drives.

On a final note, I will say that I found Star Of Africa to be very generous. Despite the fact that Chichele Presidential Lodge was only about 25% capacity when I was there, I have no doubt that they were employing 20+ local people at that lodge. Also, upon my departure, they sent my wife and I away with about half a dozen fresh baked muffins for our journey home. The guide made no protest whatsoever when we gave these fresh backed goods away to a local woman with children in Mfuwe, and did not even protest when we emptied out their ice chest and gave away all the soft drinks and water away.

Needless to say, I have a very different opinion of Star Of Africa.

uksafarigoer, What do you mean by, 'abject night drives'? Just curious. I'll be spending two nights at Puku Ridge in July (leaving home July 7 YAY) so I'll definitely report back on your issues to see whether they have been taken care of. My travel agent has told me the charges against Rogers were taken very seriously. I don't think firing him would be the only step taken towards resolving the problems. Yet I'm glad to know in what circumstances I should be cautious. I will be asking about experience and safety before taking any walks, so thank you for that heads-up. However I can't help feeling more like Rocco because the camp looks so beautiful and is situated in a wonderful location.

No doubting that Puku looks excellent, but that's not the reason I went there. I went there for game viewing, including walking, conducted as safely as possible. I needed to feel that the guide knew what he was doing and had a plan, not just 'run', with him running faster than any of us. I really didn't go there for the sunken baths. SOA may be flexible and generous and Nick P may be the best guide in the universe, but the issue is far broader than that. It's about safety and about game viewing. I've already commented on the dire approach to walking - the reference to'abject night drives' was to do with the practise of using a cook/waiter, rather than a guide to point the searchlight. Therefore night viewing was poor - one leopard, only spotted because of a number of other vehicles around it, and an immobile lion!

Okay, hopefully this will put anyone who has booked into Puku Ridge at ease...

This is from one of my best sources in the Luangwa Valley in response to getting the real lowdown on Puku Ridge:

This year at Puku there is new staff and management and things seem to be going smoothly again and the guides are better ...alas Botha and Nik are no longer there but Zebron is also a first class guide and he is stil there.

But last year Puku had a manager and guide by the name of Rogers Shawa who is a shocker....he passed the exams years ago when they were mucheasier and has never picked up a book since and is very poor in all parts of his job , as another Puku Ridge staff informed me while there.

Rogers is you will be pleased to know no longer working there and has moved on to run his own tin pot safari company for backpackers(who wont notice that he is incompetent!)

But going back to Rogers .......no one in the valley would dream of employing him hence his desire to go on his own....his knowledge is quite frankly lacking as well as his management skills, but unfortunately there was a gap in standards at Star of Africa and the result was Rogers getting a job......so as he is now no more dont worry yourself as my recent stay there was excellent.

---So, that is the bottom line on the current situation at Puku Ridge. Not even the best lodge is immune from having a bad guide. Look at Predator Biologist and Clematis' experience with Mombo a couple years ago. Look at WallyBrenda's recent stay at Chiefs Camp.

There are hiccups that occur, but the way I look at it is buying low and selling high. To look at it from a selfish point of view, hopefully this WILL keep the other guests away, at least during my stay. I would not complain if there was a 50% occupancy (6 out of 12 beds) during my visit to Puku Ridge, especially if the other two couples were a foursome requesting a private vehicle, leaving me with my own private vehicle! We can dream can't we??? :)

This correspondence does remind me that it was Zebron who was the guide who I found to be very good last year but whose name escaped me in my last e-mail. I did about 2 game activities with Zebron and 4 game activities with Nic P.

So, just as I say about people who turn their nose up at Africa, stupid people who will never know that they are missing out on the most amazing destination on Earth, "More Africa for me." In this case, I hope it will be "More Puku Ridge for me." :)

Shaytay is spot on: Phil Berry & Kuyenda is in the same area, and both Phil and his camp are absolutely superb. Phil does ALL the guiding, max 6 people in the camp, and if you ask any competent local guide, he is tops. If you haven't heard about Phil it's because he spends his time in the bush guiding, not on PR, not on websites...The place is beautiful and impeccably managed. Forget the pretty pictures on the website-- I'll go for experience and a track record of excellence every time.

Tashak,

The only company in the whole of Zambia that I see overly concerned with PR is Robin Pope Safaris.

And I'm not saying that doing PR for your company is bad...hey why not let people know? RPS has 3 camps, plus extensive mobile safaris, so they have a big staff, all focussed on promoting their brand. It is good business. The astute traveller just needs to remember that PR is PR and track record is track record.

I'm only saying that you may not have heard of Phil because he is not a whole company-- he has one camp, and guides every single activity there. He does absolutely no PR or self-promotion.

But websites are like PR too. Self promotion as opposed to "record". Pretty pictures and exciting text are not the same as experience and a track record proven over time.

Tashak,

Okay, I catch your drift.

For the record, I was pleased to learn a couple weeks ago that the lead guide at Luangwa River Lodge comes over with experience first at Mfuwe Lodge and most recently from Tena Tena. I don't recall his name right now, but if he is good enough for Robin Pope, he is good enough for me.

Regarding the whole self promotion matter, the truth of the matter is that Zambian safari operators are hopeless in this department. They have such a good thing going for them and their prices are so competitive, yet how many people, except diehard safari enthusiasts would even consider Zambia. If not for Thit Cho (Michalel's) initial recommendation to Kafunta a couple years back, I know I would not have discovered Zambia when I did...yes, probably by now, but how many people out there are going on their first safari and are only considering Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana and possibly Kenya? And more often than not, it is at rates that are 50% higher.

I just want what is best for the Zambian wildlife and time is running out for places like Sioma Ngwezi, and Liuwa Plains, North Luangwa and Kafue will all need more support if they are to thrive and not face doom from poaching.

Anyway, I am pleased with the guiding I am set to receive at each Luangwa River Lodge and Puku Ridge, as well as the excellent guiding I am anticipating in Lower Zambezi. :)

uksafarigoer,

Regarding the use of a cook/waiter for a spotter, I have no problem whatsoever with Star Of Africa training and promoting from within.

I experienced the same thing while at Chichele Presidential Lodge, and one night the cook/waiter/spotter succeeded in spotting THREE leopards...unfortunately I had to hear all about it from the other guests as that was the one night I was with Zebron and we only caught up to one of these leopard spottings in time before the leopards went off into the bush.

Ask yourself who is doing the spotting at other camps, if there is even a spotter available for game drives. I would much rather have a dedicated spotter than having the guide attempt to do it all...driving, talking to the guests, spotting, etc. How can the guide give you any attention at all while doing all of those things??? So, I do believe that it is unfair of you to penalize Star Of Africa for using a dedicated tracker who also happens to be a cook or waiter.

I agree completely Roccco--
and believe me, I cheering on LRL, and I hope they do well this season. I'm a little more concerned about the SoA situation because (1) so far, their track record is not so good and (2)the problems seem to be management problems (don't discount what happened to you at Kulefu last year--that was from management problems at the top, but they seem more interested in blaming the people at the bottom of the pyramid than fixing the problems at the top. Finally, I have no inside knowledge, but (3)there are some signs that this group over-extended themselves when they moved to Zam from Zim. If that is the case, there could be cost-cutting to try to keep things together. Not on the accomodations (already built) but on things like staffing, backup equipment/vehicles, etc. (And I did stay at SoA's Lechwe Plains in 2003 and had a super time...so I hope I'll be wrong here.)

But like what you've done with your itinerary-- diversified your risks by staying at different camps for shorter periods. And North Luangwa will (hopefully) deliver that special NL/ Kutandala magic. It's just that you are the pioneer here! Hopefully you'll get back with only the best of reviews, and we'll all be clamoring for PR and LRL reservations next year.

For what it's worth, I spent a week this March at Puku and Chichele and we had a guide named Abel who was very good. While I will admit that Nicky and I have been friends with Dave Bennett since his days in Zim, my review here is quite objective.

I believe that as Zambia continues to grow as a popular safari destination (and believe me, it IS doing so), we will see better infrastructure in terms of more qualified guides, food, etc.

Jim,

Thanks for the feedback.

Tasha,

Unfortunately, Kutandala was a casualty of my sister and mom cancelling their trip. It was no longer cost-effective to charter a plane to North Luangwa, and I felt that my wife, Alexsandra, would not handle it as well without my sister and mom around. Unfortunately it will have to remain on my wish list for now.

It is the nights that were intended for Kutandala that opened up the additional nights in South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, as I originally had SLNP, NLNP and LZNP down for four nights each. So, instead, SLNP and LZNP each got bumped up by two nights and when that occurred, I limited my time at each camp to three nights. For this year, I am just a creature of habit and will return to exactly the same parks I visited last year, but fortunately I will also be spending 3 nights at Simbambili in the Sabi Sand...my camera and lenses will be most appreciative of the opportunity to meet posing leopards! :)

Darn those folks who just won't fall into line with our safari plans! Are you sure that you can't find a way to join up with others flying up to Kutandala? That's what I did when I visited. My trip was arranged with a travel agent, but I imagine that Rod & Guz know if anyone is flying up from South Luangwa.

Anyway, I hope you'll get lots of leopards in SL too-- I understand that LRL has some "resident" leopards, and Phil Berry found me a beautiful treed leopard one afternoon for a dreamy photofest (if I can find time to reduce the size of the file I'll email to you)...and of course Puku Ridge is in the same area. I think you will find that the dry weather this year had people seeing leopards early and often in May. Some of the drives at Flatdogs came back with three... many others (at lots of camps) came back with two per drive. I only saw one, but it was a beautiful late afternoon sighting, as she surveyed a pack of (whistling) puku from a termite mound. Unfortunately I was not camera-ready--fool!! So be camera-ready from the moment you leave camp!

Tasha,

Camera ready??? I don't leave home without it anymore! My dogs are not too pleased with the fact that our morning walks have slowed to a crawl, but I have been able to take the best pictures of them, and I think slowing down our pace has led to the many coyote encounters we have had recently.

Just yesterday, my Corgi and my Sharpei mix (but she is only 40 pounds) were nose to nose with a coyote. So far, they are both curious (and fearful) of each other, but I will have to be careful. Unfortunately, it is next to impossible to shoot a photograph while controlling the fat little Corgi (who is about a foot tall and 40 pounds). The Sharpei can take care of herself, as she is fast as lightning and always retreats when she is not sure, but none of this ever occurs within more than 15 - 20 feet away from me...really quite fascinating...I will get my photo of the dog/coyote interaction soon enough.

To have the opportunity to use my new camera in Lower Zambezi, South Luangwa and the Sabi Sand will be a dream. My old point and shoot camera had a zoom of only 190mm and a megapixel of only 5.0, and I really didn't have the first clue on how to properly use it. It basically never appeared except for during the safari, meaning my photography never improved.

Now, however, I am quite confident with the Sigma 80-400mm OS lens and my other lenses for my Canon 20d. My only regret so far is buying a Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 lens. It is a GREAT lens, but if what I am reading is correct, the Optical Stabilizer feature on my 80-400mm lens is worth a couple f-stops, thus making my 80-400mm lens as good at the shorter distances as the 70-200mm lens.

The 400mm gets me to an effective 640mm with the multiplier effect and if the 1.4x teleconvertor works well with the lens, then I will be able to get 903mm...imagine the bird shots I could get with that.

I am somewhat excited about the Sigma 180mm f/3.5 lens I just bought. It hasn't arrived yet, but it does have 1:1 Macro capabilities, meaning that I should be able to get some great close-up photos. That 180mm will be an effective 288mm Macro lens with the multiplier effect and by the time the 1.4x teleconvertor goes on, it will be a 403mm Macro lens.

So, to make a long story shorter, I can hardly wait to get back to Zambia with my new toy!!! :)

uksafarigoer,
Why the comment about you not going to Puku Ridge because of the sunken baths or how beautiful it looks? There is nothing wrong with nice add-ons like those offered by Puku Ridge, and I (along with probably every other visitor) share your main goal of seeing animals safely. Just to set the record straight, this summer will be my 7th trip to Africa and I do not choose my accommodations based upon pretty web pictures. I also agree with Rocco that many safari camps have staff who are multi-talented and work at different jobs. In Botswana I missed having a separate spotter for the very reasons Rocco mentioned - it is too much work for the guide while driving over rough terrain. The camp staff have lived in the area for their whole lives and could probably find an animal in the bush with one eye closed. Unproductive night drives are commonplace - a leopard and a lion sighting is not that bad of an evening drive. I really do sympathize with your terrible walking experience, and it should absolutely be addressed, but in my opinion that doesn't mean a death toll for the camp, especially since they have proactively changed management.

Roccco,
You'll have plenty of power with that 400mm lense...but I'd be surprised if it was actually as good as the 70-200mm on the shorter side of the range. Don't know these specific lenses, but generally speaking, there are compromises made to get you those extra 200mm, and those compromises do have an effect on even the shorter ranges. On some lenses, it isn't much difference, and it is a compromise we are willing to make for the longer end and more flexibility. But my Canon 70-200 L IS is much sharper and has better color than my 70-300DO IS...and is marginally better than my friend's 100-400 L IS. There are times I wish I had his lense...and times he wishes he had mine!

But regarding the OS and extra stops: typically the choice of f-stop is determined by the depth of field you want or need, and this is not changed by an OS system. But that fstop will then dictate the shutter speed you need for correct exposure. Without a tripod or OS system the slowest shutter speed to attempt is the reciprocal of the focal length (so at 350mm...1/350 second.) Now unless you have lots of light, 1/350 of a second might be too fast to give you a good exposure (at f8 ..perhaps your camera's meter says you need 1/125, a slower (longer) time for the aperture to be open that would reveal any shake or vibration of the camera or lense) for example...and that is where the OS system comes in it would allow you to shoot at 1/125 and f8 without showing the effects of camera vibration or movement. (I've totally made up these numbers to create and example...but I hope this makes sense. ) The main point is that correct exposure requires some (fixed) combination of shutter speed and aperture (fstop), but the aperature choice drives depth of field and therefore how much of your photo is in focus. Since you don't want to compromise this, the free variable is the shutter speed, and that is where the OS system helps.

Now you are right that by slowing the shutter speed you may never need to open up to f2.8,and therefore won't need that lense. However that 70-200 lense may have other advantages that make it preferable in situations where you don't need to go above 200mm or where you can use a tripod. Just for fun, why don't you set up a little test between the lenses,and examine big images or the resulting photos very carefully. If you have a tripod you can also play with fstops and depth of field... however setup indoor shots are usually best for this unless the natural outdoor light is very consistent (eg no clouds changing things between shots). It's a long holiday weekend coming up...a good time to play with the camera and lenses!

Whew...so much to think about on safari. And so much work to be prepared. Thank goodness digital allows us to practice to our hearts content without wasting time on

Tasha,

Thanks for the feedback. I do hope that my 70-200 f/2.8 lens proves useful, as I do not wish to make the effort to sell it as is common practice amongst photographers whenever they have the slightest complaint about a lens.

I did get my Sigma 180mm Macro lens in the mail today but I definitely have a lot of learning to do before I can shoot Macro effectively. I also received the 1.4x teleconvertor that I will need to learn to use effectively. It does seem that in order to use with each the 180mm Macro and the 80-400mm OS lens that I will need to manual focus, but this will be a minor inconvenience if it helps me achieve results that would otherwise be unattainable.

Last items remaining on my wish list before my trip...

-New laptop w/ 60-80 MB of memory (no bigger than a 14" screen and DVD ready)

-Canon 20d camera (body only) This will be a backup body that will be available at all times with an alternate lens. One lens will likely normally have the 80-400mm OS lens while the other body has the 17-85mm IS lens. I believe these two lenses will see 85% of the action while the 70-200mm f/2.8 and the 180mm Macro will only be used in special instances.

-A couple more batteries and a couple more MB's of memory. I am currently at about 3 batteries and 3.5 MB's of memory. Better safe than sorry...I don't trust myself to recharge batteries every day or to download photos every day. Every 3 days or so would be perfect...after all, I am on vacation! :)

-Tamrac 777 photography backpack. Hopefully this will hold all of my current gear. It is not in the budget to get any other lenses before the trip but of my four lenses, three of them are pretty large.

-Neutral density filters...more than likely for each the 70-200mm f/2.8 and the 17-85mm IS lens. I see no need why I would need such a filter on the other lenses.

-A good sunset filter, as I am expecting about 19 great sunsets between my time in Zambia, the Twelve Apostles Hotel in Cape Town and Simbambili in the Sabi Sand.

-A couple good ballheads for the tripod and the monopod.

-A Sigma 500 Super Flash. It is very hard to take good nocturnal photos, but with all of the nocturnal lesser seen animals in each the Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa, I do want to, at least, give myself an opportunity to do so.

I cannot think of too much more that I will need. I am just suffering daily anxiety attacks that a hippo is going to ram the canoe in the Lower Zambezi and eat my gear. TAKE ME, MR HIPPO, BUT FOR GOD'S SAKE, MAN, LEAVE MY CAMERA GEAR ALONE! ;)

Wow, you will be lugging a ton of gear!!!
I feel like my shoulders are giving out, and I only have half that stuff. One thing to think about: how will your protect all this gear in your camps? I don't care what management says: there is theft at all these places. They do their best to prevent it, but it is a fact of life.

Re the wish list:

For 1 camera, I doubt that you will need more than 3 batteries. I have always had comfortably enough power with 3, as long as you remember to recharge. But if you do get a 2nd body...are you really going to do that? I know everyone says to do it, but why not just take your old camera as the backup for wide angle stuff? Knock wood, I've tempted fate on all my trips with just one slr body and a small point-shoot. I find that carrying and juggling more equipment actually increases the probability that I drop or screw up something.
(Another important tip: you really need a good UV filter, mostly to protect your expensive lenses...and a cheap UV filter over a good lense will degrade your photos. BUT the filter is mainly there to protect the lense...A B&W filter saved my 70-200L IS when I dropped that...filter smashed, lense just fine. I regard that as my one lucky chance, and don't press luck anymore.

And I know you would be unhappy if you didn't have the long lense, but would you really really miss having the macro lense on this trip? If this is your first trip with an SLR, you might consider using one camera and the lenses you have until you are really really sure about your next wish item...it could change with a bit more experience...

Also for a person as wildlife crazy as you are, I would thing that a superb pair of binoculars might give you more pleasure than an extra 20D and macro lense. I say this assuming that because you haven't talked about binoculars, you haven't become obsessed with those yet! (And they are a whole other obsession...)

Tasha,

Please...one obsession at a time!!! ;)

My Steiner Safari binoculars will just have to suffice for one more year. I will make a better pair of binos the next goal before my Botswana safari next year, as I certainly will not be ready to upgrade to a Canon 1DS-Mark II by then, and I don't see where else to go from a Canon 20d.

If I did have to leave one lens behind, I agree that it would likely be the 180mm Macro lens. It is about the same size as the 70-200 f/2.8, but the f/2.8 would come in handy if a hippo or crocodile did eat my other lens. At least with a 1.4x conversion, I would still be at an effective 448mm maximum range.

I really do not mind carrying this heavy stuff around. I mean I am walking my dogs each morning with a leash with an often uncooperative fat little Corgi pulling an opposite direction while hand shooting with a Canon 20d w/ 80-400mm OS lens attached.

Hopefully I will be able to keep an eye on all my camera gear 95% of the time and it does not walk away during that other 5% of the time. However, I am more worried about my gear in the very limited time (about 12 hours total) that I will be in London, than I am worried about it for the 20 days that I will be in Southern Africa.

Roccco, you do mean GB (Gigabytes) of memory don't you? A MB (Megabyte) is really nothing today. Also, I'd buy several more GB of camera memory, its pretty cheap right now, and you don't have to worry about your hard drive crashing and losing all your pictures. Three of the four of us kept all our pictures on memory cards last year. My son transferred a lot of his pictures to a portable hard drive, which subsequently crashed :( Think of losing all your pictures . . .

Also, we brought along several small pairs of 10x binoculars, but my son brought a good pair of 8x50s. The difference in quality was incredible. Even though my son's binoculars had a lower magnification, everything was enormously clearer. Good 8x50s are also a poor man's night vision device because they gather in so much light. Maybe you should add an obsession :)

Scout,

I cannot afford another obsession right now! ;)

Between Africa and Photography I am overobsessed and if I add another obsession, the only thing in my pocket for my 3 week vacation will be some random pieces of lint.

Fortunately, my 80-400mm OS lens with the 1.4x teleconvertor attached is probably about as good as any affordable binoculars out there. I mean I was zooming in on vehicle license plates about 100 yards away and I could read the license plates through this lens.

I don't know how practical it would be to buy too many CF cards. If I were not to download ANYTHING, I still run the risk of having my CF cards lost or stolen. What I would like to do is keep my very best photos on the CF Cards, and download just about everything else, first onto the hard drive (yes...I meant to say 60-80 GB of computer memory) but then also download them onto individual DVD's that I will store separately. Who knows, maybe I can even mail them back to myself from Cape Town?

I cannot state how excited I am to be doing my very first high season safari. While the flora may not be as spectacular as it was on my prior two Zambian safaris in June (2003 and 2004), I am counting on the wildlife sightings to be double what they have been in June. While the elephants, giraffes, zebras, pukus and baboons are strong year-round in South Luangwa, I do think the lion and leopard spottings will be much, much better in September, especially with this being a very dry year in Zambia. Really, I couldn't have picked a better time to upgrade to a better camera system.