Planning a trip to Namibia - advice please
 

I travelled in Namibia with a girlfriend a number of years ago and have such good memories of the big skies, the silence, the roads with no telephone poles ! I'm considering another trip - this time with my husband and a bigger budget.
Although my first trip included the usual Nam highlights : Sossusvlei dunes, Swakopmund, Etosha - we were self-driving and did'nt have the time to get off the beaten track. This trip I'd still like to show my husband awesome Sossusvlei for example - but there MUST be a different angle. Yes I know I can see it from a balloon ! But basicallly I'd like to know what is differnt in Namibia since I was last there. And Would really like to compile ideas for an out-of-the-ordinary trip.

If you loved the red sands of the dunes but want to explore that environment without all the other people, I would recommend a visit to Wolwedans (which offers chalets at the lodge or tents at the camp). It's in the Namib Rand Nature Reserve and is just beautiful! It's about an hour's drive south of Sesriem.

Thanks, I've had a look at Wolwedans and would definately like to include. How many nights is enough. I have approx 10 days (maybe less) I'm obviously considering fly-in this time, but don't want to do the Wilderness Safaris circuit. Whats the best way to join the dots to include the 'must sees' as well as some of the lesser known places?

I agree with Wolwedans. It is my favourite place in Namibia. Wolwednas offers the exclusivity of being in a massive reserve and not seeing anyone else. You have the red sand dunes and wildlife to yourself.

Another place worth a visit is Okonjima near Otjiwarongo north of Windhoek. Okonjima Bush Lodge or the new villa are awesome, and the cheetah tracking something special

Regarding Wolwedans, the first time we visited (in 2001) we were there only 2 nights. We loooooved it but I cried when we left as I wanted to stay longer.

The second time we went was in 2004 and we were there for 4 days which was just wonderful. We just never bored of the incredible landscapes!

For some people 4 nights would be too long as there's not a high density of wildlife (though plenty to keep us happy).

I'd say 3 would be ideal, but 2 would be OK if you're flying in AND the flight times mean that you have time for one drive on both the arrival and departure day.

Is Africat Foundation actally based at Okonjima ? I've heard good things about the project. I looked at Okonjima's website, that villa looks lovely , thanks Poppins! So if I was to go with Wolwedans for 2 nights and Oknonjima for 2 nights (not sure if in Villa or not at this stage) what rounting do you recommend ? I'd like to include Swakopmund - to give it a second chance actually. When I was last there it was overcast and a bit like a ghost town. Your thoughts ?

I really enjoyed Damaraland and Kaokoland (sp?). Desert elephants were an amazing experience and the scenery is mindblowing. Regarding Okonjima - to me it seemed busy. Some good close encounters with cheetah and leopard but it did feel a little contrived.

Hi Snowy77

Give 2 days for Swakopmund, half of one spent with Hata Angu tours getting to know the "other side" of Swakopmund - Mondesa, DRC, etc. Contact [email protected] or google them for their website. The other day spend going to Sandwich Bay with Turnstone Tours. 4x4 along the coast, birds, dunes, archaeological site, truly a lovely and unique day with top quality guides.

Also, when you're at Sossusvlei pop in to Neuras Wine Estate, about 50km east of Sesriem on the C19. Wine made by the proprietors of Springfield (Robertson, S Africa) and worth a stop.

3 nights at Okonjima is better. You'll want 2 full days to take in all the various options.

If you're keen to fly rather than drive I've heard good things about Atlantic Aviation (flynamibia.com).

Another remarkable spot in Namibia (among the many) is Harnas, north-east of Gobabis on the edge of the Kalahari. Wildlife rehabilitation centre and great accommodation in a great bush setting. Sounds like it's off target for your routing this trip...you'll just have to go back again!

A trusted agent I can recommend to handle any bookings is Louise at New African Frontiers in Windhoek. Among the most professional I have ever worked with.

HTH

Kurt

Apart from Sossusvlei and Etosha there are 2 places we really liked from our Namibia trip.

Like Kavey and Poppins we think The Namib Rand Reserve is a fantastic place, with amazing landscape and very good wilderness experience.We had 3 days,i think 3 days are perfect but a combination of 2 with one in Kulala to visit Sossusvlei is also good
.
Have a look at my pictures from Namib Rand,the place and the animals..not the accommodation.

http://www.pbase.com/africawild/namibrand05

The other place that was FANTASTIC is Palmwag.This is really a wild place where you will have drives just for yourself with amazing scenarios and desert adapted creatures.The camp is also fantastic with basic tents,bucket showers and a wilderness feeling difficult to match.
Here are some pictures from our 2 days at Palmwag.

http://www.pbase.com/africawild/damaraland05

Paco.

On our first trip we did 2 nights Wolwedans and then were DRIVEN up to Sossusvlei (as it's not very far) to overnight and visit the dunes the next day. That worked well but if you've seen Sossusvlei and don't have a particularly yearning to repeat it, I'd do the 3 days in Wolwedans.

I want to second the recommendation for Damaraland. We stayed at the Wilderness Safaris camp which we really enjoyed, especially because of the community ownership/ staffing. And those desert elephants were a treat indeed.

You do not mention the time you have for this trip, however I assume that it would be around a fortnight and that your budget will allow you to enjoy a few flights in addition to driving?

I would suggest that if this is the case that you hire a pilot guide and initiate the journey by heading north and west. Routing you can figure out, but I enjoyed a circuit that took me through Kaokoland, particularly the area around Purros, where you have an excellent chance of seeing the desert lion, rhino and elephant. There is also a reasonably accessible and unspoilt Himba village not far away. During that sector of my journey I captured a stunning picture of giraffe in the desert.

You could extend up to the Kunene and check out epupa falls before turning tail and heading south toward Khorixas and the Twyfelfontein area. Here the attraction is the 10 - 20 000 year old san art, where there are hundreds of well preserved engravings and paintings depicting san mythology. BTW, if you are at all interested in ticking off some unique birds you'll find them here as well as the single species petromus typicus, which is neither a rat nor a mouse but something on it's own entirely.

Etosha, yes of course before heading back to Windhoek to pick up the car and do as all the others have suggested, Swakop down to Walvis around and about through the Naukluft finishing up at NamibRand. If you want to hang where the celebs do try their little known and exclusive boulders camp.

If time allows, after an early visit to the dunes (s'vlei) drive down to Luderitz (look out for the wild horses en-route) BTW: there are only about five wild "feral" horse species world wide and this is one of them. Then hit Kolmanskop etc, before making the long journey back to WDK.

THe last sector can be done by plane instead of a car, I have done both and admit that driving was by far my favourite, however that was almost another life away and at at time when time really didn't matter.

If you want I will be happy to share my lodgings, however am always reluctant on this board as it has do with personal choice and what appeals to me might well be abbhorant for you.

What? An animal that is half bird half mouse! Vineyards in the desert ! thnaks for all the input, this is amazing.
I've heard of Bruno from Turnstone Tours and their great Sandwich Harbour tours. I'll look into Hata Angu Tours. Are any of the numerous excursions and acttivites offered in Swakopmund worth it. Damaraland looks special - I remember walking up a hill to see The White Lady. Can't remember is that in Damaraland ? I'm interested in a combination of fly-in and self-driving. thanks for air option Kurt. What if we had about 12 days ? Do you usually make your own booking or work through a travel agent ? Should I go with someone based in Namibia or South Africa ?

the petromus is a mouse type creature, no relation to a bird.

The white lady is up the brandberg in the Tsisab ravine. This is technically in damaraland on the fringe of the skeleton coast national park. If you are after rock art there are about 20 other sights in the same ravine, but they are exposed and weathered, so you really can't make out too much detail.

Twelve days for a trip of that nature is fine, however totally dependent on flying between some of the more remote areas in the north and west. Now I do my own thing as I am from So Africa and have explored the area sufficiently already that I don't rely on expert opinion. However if I were to recommend a company to get you around and about it would certainly be Nature Friend, as far as I know other than the Schoemans, whose company name I have forgotten, there aren't any others that offer a pilot guide service.

Mkhonzo,
I'm sure your taste in lodging would not be abhorent to anyone. Maybe not their cup of tea, but not abhorent. Thank you for the Nature Friend tip. I had not heard of them before.

I've wondered about trying to see those feral horses. It seems to be somewhat out of the way and iffy. Can you tell us about your experiences seeing them? Time allotted and where you stayed? I won't be abhored, promise.

Care to tell us what celebs you've seen at the boulders camp? I'll likely never go on a Namibian celeb hunt myself, so your feedback is it for me.

Kavey,
I remember your comment about crying when leaving Wolwedans from past posts. To put that into perspective, where else have you cried when it was time to leave? I don't recall you mentioning other places.

No tears in the Antarctic. They'll freeze on your face!

LynneB,
Do you have a link to a report? I am especially interested in your comments on Okonjima and your experiences there. I am wondering if I'd feel the same way you do. I think I recall commenting on your trip, but couldn't find it.

Kurt_a,
You obviously think Okonjima is a special place if you recommend 3 nights. If I go, that's what I was thinking--3 nights. It seems like you know lots about Namibia. How do you feel about Okonjima being a little busy and contrived?

Paco,
I remember your great account of Namibia and photos!

I've had an excellent response from Cardboard Box over a couple of years of intensive questioning by me.

Snowy,
Please post your final itinerary when you decide upon one.

Atravelynn.
I have seen the horses on three occasions, the first on the road between Aus and Luderitz and the other two in the Naukluft National Park. Nothing to report really, but a lifer seen three times on three different trips. the sighting alongside the road, was just that I drove up and there they were grazing peacefully about three hundred metres away. of the sighting in the Naukluft, one was great, at a water hole after some Gemsbok had been drinking, the horses (8 or so) pulled in and after a few minutes just wandered off. The other sighting was less spectacular, saw them in the distance, parked my car and walked out toward them...yes yes, broke the rules and so did they and took off.

I have a friend who flies in that part of the world, he delivered Charlize Theron to Boulders camp recently. Personally I have not paid too much attention to who has been and or not been there. Some time ago when the Jolies and Pitts were breeding in Namibia, they too enjoyed the serenity of boulders.

And yes perhaps I should have chosen a less vigorous adjective as you are right, my choice is not necessarily everyones cup of tea.

In most of my trips through Namibia I have been camping as the attraction had been the Kob run up the skeleton coast beyond mile 109 near the Ugab river mouth. So public sights with nothing but the stars above my pip. Occasionally when the fog would pull in I'd crawl under my car to avoid getting wet. Most recent trip stayed at Purros, Okiharonga Elephant watch camp. Mowani, Onguma Tented Camp, Wolwedans Dunes. I used my pilot friend for a day trip x 3 and flew from purros up to Epupa. Did a scenic over the Namib en route to Namib rand and then from there did a day trip down to Fish River Canyon and Kolmanskop....
Spectaaaaaaaculah!

Hello Snowy,

I have posted some photos of Okonjima (Bush Camp) and activities here that you might find useful, http://picasaweb.google.com/Treepol/OkonjimaAfricat2005.

I am returning to Namibia in August 2008 and have decided to spend time at:

Bagatelle Game Ranch - http://www.bagatelle-kalahari-gameranch.com/

Swakopmund for shopping, Sandwich Harbour tour and a Desert Adventure tour

Hobatere Lodge - http://www.exclusive.com.na/hobatere.htm

in addition to Etosha, Windhoek and I'm not quite sure if I will have time for anything else yet.


Pol

Wolwedans is a lot more than an hour south of Sesriem. to the lodgings, not the turnoff, you are looking at 2.5 hours driving at a safe speed.

Thanks for the info Mkhonzo. Did you cry after leaving Wolwedans? Pardon my ignorance of Namibia accommodations, but is Onguma Tented Camp fairly close to Etosha? If so, I believe I read that it has good wildlife, but not a lot of people. What did you think of Onguma?

Onguma Tented Camp is just outside Etosha, at the Eastern gate. Excellent value and just a lovely lodge

I have to agree that Okahirongo is an amazing spot. Once again so unbelievibly remote and great for visiting the Himbas. But you have to fly in.

I didn't find Okonjima crowded, but I was there out of the main season. The activities and AfriCat foundation blew me away.

If you have already seen Sossusvlei, then I would avoid it and do 3 nights at Wolwedans. In fact, 3 nights at most places is preferable if you have the time and money. Horrible to rush through and not enjoy the solitude and landscape.

Naturefriend Safari's is a great operation. They have a share in Wolwedans and their own flights, so a good option for good prices. And they run a top notch outfit.

A combination of flying and driving is a great idea. Gives you the best of both worlds.

Tuckegm my apologies, I must be misremembering the length of the journey from Wolwedans to Sesriem.

Lynn, to be fair, during that first trip to Wolwedans we were also very lucky to have as our guide the conservation and guide training manager, Louise and to ourselves too as there weren't many other guests. We got on particularly well and so when we left for Sesriem she decided to drive us up there herself. Wolwedans was the first camp on the trip (after a loooong, looong journey) and was so magical. I shed a few tears on leaving Wolwedans and also on saying our goodbyes.

Can't think of many other places we've cried on leaving actually. That said, there was a HUGE sense of loss on disembarking from the Ioffe at the end of the Antarctic trip. Probably the only reason there were no tears is that we were with all the other folks being shepherded to the airport, many of whom had become friends. But I remember a couple of us discussing the palpable feelings of resentment that we had to give up "our" ship nad "our" crew friends to a bunch of usurpers who would board the ship a few hours later! Heartsick that the trip was over.

hi and thank you for all comments and pics. PacoAhedo , Whats the name of the camp at Palmwag ? Is there a Wilderness Safaris camp there now. When I was last in Namibia I remember a very basic camp (more like a bush bar...) and a Fort with palm trees. Is that a lodge?

I'm looking at April 2008 and want to combine self-drive with flying. I've been sending enquries to a few travel agents who do Namibia. Will post my preferred itinerary when I get one! Does anyone know of Southern Destinations?

Lynn,
Onguma is on the eastern fring of the Etosha and outside the park, however it looks across into fishers pan, which is the last to dry. Yes the game viewing there is good and I do believe more consistent throughout the year, which gives this location an edge over the western camps at certain times of the year.

No I did not cry, but was sad to leave Wolwedans, great people and just an inspiring place all round.

Snowy, I suspect that the fort that you are referring to is Namutoni, which is a rest camp in the eatern Etosha national park.

You are probably referring to Palmwag Lodge.

This was our meeting point,here we left our car and where pick by Chris for an almost 3 hour game drive to the camp that is in a very remote area.
Desert Rhino Camp is a Wilderness Safaris camp and i believe has eight tents each with an en-suite bathroom with hand basin, flush toilet and a classic bucket shower that is filled with hot water on request.
Common areas are also in a tent.Everything basic but very nice with a true camp feeling.

The most important part for me was the reserve.
The wilderness experience of the concession is great!
I would recommend this camp to enjoy the vastness of the area and the ability of species to survive in such an arid, inhospitable environment.



Paco.

For those of you so knowledgable about Namibia, is it typical or economically reasonable to have someone drive just one person around for part of the trip?

There seem to be so many places that lend themselves nicely to self drive. But I am just not comfortable doing that alone, especially on the opposite side of the road from what I am used to. It wouldn't have to be just me, but I don't want 16 and I have not found a group trip that does what I want to. But maybe that's because the perfect itinerary I am thinking of is not affordable.

Any kind of accommodation or food along the way would be fine.

The other conclusion I am coming to is that Namibia needs a couple of visits to fit in just the highlights.

Thanks for the answers so far.

Kavey, Enjoy your crew on this next Antarctic trip, while they are all yours.

No I don't think that that is economical or normal. Advertise around a couple of traveller websites and I am sure that you will find a partner to travel with, or pitch up stay at a couple of backpacker lodges and surely there will be handful of wanderlust kiwis or aussies heading your way, negotiate and take them along.

Lynn, thanks!

Hey Lynn-
I'm up for a self-drive around Namibia too, in case you're looking for a "co-hort in crime" for this trip.:D
Although I think you're right, there may be just too many places in Namibia to try and see during one trip.

Snowy, I hope some of this rambling on your thread will assist you. If not, pardon the intrusion.

Mkhonzo, I think you are right. A private chauffeur throughout Namibia is not an option for me.

Sandy,
We have not even gone on Trip #1 together and we may have a #2. You are to blame for moving Namibia out of the running in 2009. Now it looks like 2010 or later.

Moi?! You're blaming Moi?! As I recall, you already decided to push Namibia back before I got involved with the gorilla trekking. ;)

And now you're pushing it back to even later than 2010?! I think I'll have to hit Namibia sooner than later. It sounds like a fascinating country to visit! (Not that there aren't lots of other fascinating countries out there!)

Too many countries, not enough time nor money! *sigh*

I am already anxiously awaiting the Namibia report, Sandy!

I've just remebered that its not Palmwag that I was thinking of, but Sesfontein in the Kaokoveld - That was the furtherest north we dared to go (two girls in a Combi Camper!) I remember we met an Italian guide with a group of guests in the minibus and two spare tyres which he said was vital if we were to go any further. It was a stark and out-there place. I wonder if it has become more hospitable. The rundown fort-like building... is it perhaps a lodge now? Anyway, I've given my specs to an agent. lets see.

Sorry for my delayed response - I was in Nelspruit and surrounds for a few days. (Never flown in before- wow, what an airport!)

Okonjima is a research facility that uses tourism for education and funding. Cats are collared, which can make it seem contrived if viewed against Etosha (for example), but the experience offered and the context are entirely different. I could also talk about the ways that "safaris" are contrived, and wouldn't want to judge either as superior. They are different, and Okonjima does what they do very well. I did not find it busy.

Having been to Twyfelfontein and Brandberg in 2002 and in mid-2007, the experience has been fundamentally changed, and I CANNOT recommend visits to either place now. The range of engravings one is permitted to see at Twyfelfontein is a tiny portion of what was offered before. The distance travelled on rough and remote roads to see it is not justified. Even if you have the means to fly in and out, for a 30 minute walk it is NOT WORTH IT. Sadly, it is the same for the Brandberg. 45 minute walk in to see the White Lady and 45 minutes back out. That's it. You'll have to go on a second walk and pay again to go to see different paintings, and then only 15 or so panels/paintings. Frankly, it was terrible. There is better rock art elsewhere in Southern Africa, and easier to get to. I strongly recommend both of these stops NOT be included in your itinerary unless you are really, really keen for some reason.

These are recent changes made to help with the conservation of the art, but the restrictions have killed what made the places special: the sheer magnitude of the art work that surrounds you. This has been one of the few disappointments from recent changes in Namibian tourism. :-(

I also feel that Ludertiz and Kolmanskoppe aren't worth the effort required to get there, especially on a first visit. Rather spend the money on one of the aerial 'fly overs' of the coast from Swakopmund across the Namib down to Luderitz and up the coastline over the shipwrecks, etc., back to Swakopmund.

I stayed at Onguma a few months ago. Very nice, especially for the price. Some of the best "camp" food I had on the trip.

HTH

Kurt

This is the super duper itinerary that has been proposed to me :
2 nights at Mowani Mountain Camp to see bushman paintings, desert ellies and rhino
2 nights at Okahirongo Elephant Camp in Purros to see the desert elephants and Ovahimba
3 nights at Onguma tented for game viewing in Etosha
2 nights at Okonjima Bush Lodge for cheetahs, leopard and bushman experience
3 nights at Wolwedans Dunes Lodge for desert experience

Another option would apparently be to start at Wolwedans and end at Lianshulu in the Caprivi for river cruises and land based wildlife, going onto Victoria Falls and back to Johannesburg from there. But probably out of my budget seeing as this requires a lot of flying around. Off to show it to my better half!

Great itinerary.
Don't expect to see the ele's at Mowani. If you do it will a bonus.

Great itinerary, but my personal opinion is that you don't need three nights at Wolvedans. If you get an early start, one full day to see the dunes and the surrounding area is enough. Thus, I think a two-night stay is adequate. Personally, I would add another night or two on the Okaukuejo side of Etosha, preferably inside the park.

So much helpful stuff. It looks pretty super duper to me Snowy77.

Now I can't wait for your report.

Snowy77,
My wife and I are planning another safari trip this November and really like the itinerary you've come up with. We do have a couple of questions for you.
Did you come up this yourself or have you been working with someone?
If so, who?
How are you moving from camp to camp?
Thanks,
Mike

One of our "finds" from our July 2007 visit to South Africa and Namibia was Eagle's Nest Lodge, Klein Aus Vista, in Aus, Namibia. Aus is definitely off the beaten track! We stayed in the Rock Cabin (one of 8 cabins) and it, and the surrounding scenery, were amazing. I would highly recommend a stay there. For us, what was a convenient stopover between Fish River Canyon and the dunes at Sesriem became a highlight of our trip - we wished we had booked more than one night at Eagle's Nest. Their website doesn't do it justice: www.gondwana-desert-collection.com.
Be warned - Eagle's Nest is popular and you have to book well in advance. We are booked for a return visit in August 2008 (2 nights this time!), and we are looking forward to it. Robin

Robin, that looks wonderful!

Eagle's Nest Lodge is a great place - one of those wonderful places that greatly exceeds your expectations!

Snowy - for something different, why not combine the trip to Namibia with a trip to South Africa.

Here is a favourite itinerary of ours (all self-drive):

Cape Town
to:
Karoo National Park (SA)- 1 night - beautiful scenery and wonderful self-catering cabins www.sanparks.co.za
to:
Upington, SA - La Boheme Guest House - one of the best B&Bs we have stayed in - 1 night
www.laboheme.com
to:
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (SA) - 10 nights as follows: (you would need a 4 x 4 - the wilderness camps are wonderful - unfenced, with only 4 self-catering tents, maximum 8 people)
www.sanparks.co.za

Kieliekrankie Wilderness Camp - 2 nights
Nossob Restcamp (area known for predators) - 1 night
Gharagab Wilderness Camp - 2 nights
Nossob Restcamp - 1 night
Bitterpan Wilderness Camp - 2 nights
Kalahari tented Camp - 1 night
Urikaruus Wilderness Camp - 2 nights
to:
Upington - La Boheme again - 1 night
to:
Canon Mountain Camp, Namibia - near Fish River Canyon - 1 night - stay at Canon Mountain Camp but have dinner at Canon Lodge - the camp is so isolated and beautiful but we had a most memorable meal at the lodge!
www.gondwana-desert-collection.com
Visit the canyon in the morning (when the light is best) before leaving for Aus.
to:
Eagle's Nest Lodge, Klein Aus Vista, Aus, Namibia - 1 night - stay in one of 8 cabins - one of our favourite places! www.gondwana-desert-collection.com
to:
Kulala Desert Lodge near Sesriem - 2 nights so that you have time to do the balloon ride one morning, and hike up Big Daddy and visit Dead Vlei on the 2nd morning - located close to Wolwedans that everyone is recommending, so you could stay at either - we have stayed at Kulala Desert Lodge twice and it is also a favourite of ours
For Kulala - www.wilderness-safaris.com
to:
1 or 2 nights in either Walvis Bay (Lagoon Lodge is great) or Swakopmund (Beach Lodge)
to:
Then head north to Etosha with an overnight stop at Vingerklip Lodge www.vingerklip.com.na - a stopover really, but kind of a neat place (the "finger" is beautiful at sunset) with nice cabins!

Then to Etosha for a few nights!

Whether you then return to Cape Town or Windhoek from Etosha (to fly home), you would pass Okonjima (which is another spot that has been mentioned in this thread - the Africat place) when going south on the B1 in Namibia - we spent two nights at Okonjima and loved it - you can't help but love it if you are a cat lover - we were upgraded to their bush camp (having booked at the main camp, which isn't as expensive), and the tents were the nicest we've stayed in!
www.okonjima.com

Just some ideas! Happy planning! Robin