Kenya/Tz itinerary - any coments/suggestions?
 

Well, our first real planning evening is soon to be over. We are a group of 5 travelling to Kenya and Tanzania june/july 2007. Here is the itinerary we will be giving several tour operators:

June 12: Arrive Nairobi - Fairview Hotel 3 nights.
June 16: Fly to Mara - 4 nights (haven't picked the camp, but want a tented camp and safari walks.
June 20: Fly back to Nairobi, fly to Lamu (3 nights in Lamu, want to stay in Lamu Town.
June 24: Fly to Mombasa - 3 nights at Diani Beach, Shambani cottages (Boabab villa).
June 28: Drive to Tsavo East - 2 nights at Kilaguni Lodge
June 30: Drive back to Mombasa, fly to Arusha (possible?), drive to Ngorogoro. 2 nights at Sopa Lodge
July 2: Fly from Arusha to Zanzibar. 2 nights at E&G, 3 nights at Paje-Ndame Village
July 7: Home.....

I stayed at a few of these so here goes.

Fairview: Great choice
Lamu: We stayed at Lamu Palace.We loved it but it is not luxury if thats what you want,also they had a new manager when we were there and he was a brilliant cook and was making major design changes to the Hotel.There are lots of good choices and staying right in Lamu is the best choice.You can easily get a Dhow to Manda or Shella.
Kilaguni:because of the drought there was lots of action at the waterholes and the food was great.The rooms are small but we spend little time in our rooms and we could have sat outside and watched the waterholes all night.
Sopa:Its ok nothing more.
We stayed at Governors in the Mara and really loved it.Lots of game great views,and excellent food.

Siro

Fairview is a great choice. Mara take a look at serian www.serian.net expensive but value for money alternately kicheche would match the price bracket of your other choices. Not sure if you can fly to Arusha direct ex MSA though. You may have to do either MSA-Nbi-Ars or Msa-Dar-Ars.

Hi Siro,

Fairview sounds nice, but it’s not in a central location and you could get a very comfortable hotel for a lot less money.

In the Mara you could look at Basecamp and Ilkeliani that are certainly expensive enough, but if you have a lot of money, consider Rekero Tented Camp or Serian.

In Lamu I’d recommend Yumbe House - 1100 shillings (aprox. $15) for a single with breakfast -, unless you “need” A/C and alcoholic beverages. It’s a beautiful old Swahili house with a courtyard. The rooms are less beautiful, but most are airy and they have nets, fans, charm and bathrooms.

I had a quick look at Baobab Villa and it’s looks like you’ll get luxury for a very reasonable price pp.

Kilaguni – there’s a typo. It’s in Tsavo West, in case anyone gets confused.

Ngorogoro Sopa looks nice enough and is the most reasonably priced on the crater rim, I believe.

Zanzibar – have a look at the Clove Hotel as well http://www.zanzibarhotel.nl/

I don’t think there are direct flights from Mombasa to Arusha. It’d be better to drive from Tsavo West to Nairobi and then fly to Arusha.

Thanks for your replies :)

Been looking at Palace in Lamu. We are not in for the luxury part here. The most important is to stay in town. We are checking into renting a house from a German woman but know little about it. We have considered Yumbe (read your report Nyamera, thx). But I think it's ruled out because of the alcohol and a/c thing. Looks nice though.

Kilaguni is one of the few absolute accommodations, sentimental reasons. And yes, it certainly is Tsavo West, sorry about that.

We've chosen Sopa (crater) because of the location. Seems like a great idea sitting in the dining area watching the sunset (hope I'm not wrong about this...?)

Mara: Been looking into your suggestions and have yet to decide. Serian looks great though. My parents are not so eager on the safaripart (been there, done that..). Therefore we're looking for a comfy and nice place where the rest of the group (me!) can enjoy safariwalks and gamedrives, while my parents can enjoy the views from the camp if they wish to relaxe. We are waiting for a reprot from a South-African friend who just got back from Mara. He has a friend in Mara with a "upmarket tented camp" (his words), but don't kvow which one and if it is possible to get some "friendly prices".

Fairview in Nairobi: I'm not sure, but I think my parents have stayed there some thirty years ago.. And it's as far as I know located ok considering the places (my old school, house and so forth) we are going to visit. But I will look into other hotels.

Zanzibar: My mother is sooooo excited about E&G after seeing pictures, no chance of changing that I think. Anyone have anything to say about Paje-Ndame Village? Lonely Planet describes it as a bit overpriced and tatti.

Our next move is to look into operators. We are having a bit of disagreement about leaving everything for a Norwegian outfitter or contact operators in K/Tz ourselves. Most likely I will be back with quistions about this. For now I will do some more reading at Fodor :D

Sorry, not sure what you mean with "your post refers" (my english has unforunately deteriorated).

I'll look into breakawayafrica and don't mind further suggestions... We'll be flying out from Norway if it makes any difference.

Siro,
I think Lamu Palace is your only option if you want A/C and alcoholic beverages in Lamu Town. I even think it’s the only place with A/C, unless you rent some a private luxury house – maybe the German lady’s house. I thought only Americans needed A/C … For alcohol you also have Jannat House and Petley’s Inn, but Jannat doesn’t have A/C and Petley’s is no longer a hotel. Before going to Lamu I’d heard Petley’s had been destroyed in a fire and I was surprised to see it standing there with one of the three bars that serve beer. I can’t find a website, so I don’t think it’s back in business. Though I did see people with suitcases at Petley’s, but that might have been a dream.

Re. Paje-Ndame Village: I wouldn’t like to stay at a place where I’d have to play ”kubb”. Have a look at Kinazi Upepo
http://www.kinaziupepo.com/
I’ve never been to Zanzibar.

Some Kenyan operators:
Southern & Eastern http://www.essafari.co.ke/
Southern Cross http://www.southerncrosssafaris.com/
Gametrackers http://www.gametrackersafaris.com/

Some Tanzanian operators:
Roy’s http://www.roysafaris.com/index.html
Sunny Safaris http://www.sunnysafaris.com/
Ranger Safaris http://www.rangersafaris.com/frameset.htm

BTW your friend has a very interesting friend.

Nyamera
I guess some Scandinavians are hooked on that a/c thing... although I don't think it is all that important for our group. But isn't it hot and humid in Lamu Town?

Paje-Ndame.... hmmmmm, "kubb"... I see what you mean. I haven't actually been through their website before now. It seems like we will be spending quite som time with fellow Scandinavians (not all that surprising..) if we choose to stay there. Interesting alternative you gave me, thank you.

I'll check out the operators. On your trip(s), did you use any of them? Are they tied up to spesific camps/lodges? Will we be able to lower our budget if we bypass a Norwegian travel operator?

Well, I don't know about my (parents) friend's friend but I hope he turns out to be interesting :D Our friend is interesting but is frentic about security in Kenya. He hates Nairobi and is pleading us not to go there or to do self-driving anywhere. He was actually our neighbor in Nairobi 30 years ago.

Thanks again
Siro

Siro,
Lamu is hot and humid, but not unbearably so. There are fans.

I’ve seen the operators recommended by other people here on Fodor’s. At least the Kenyan ones aren’t tied up. On my first trip I used Basecamp Travel in Sweden. I’ve recommended Basecamp Travel Nairobi to people, but as they apparently don’t reply to emails I’ve stopped doing that. On my second trip I just emailed a camp in Tsavo East and took the bus there. Then I continued to the coast. On my third trip I bought a flying package to Samburu from Let’s go Travel in Nairobi. They’re good if you want something on their website, but I got the impression you can’t discuss other things with them. Then I took the bus to Nakuru and a camp I had emailed directly and after that I booked hotel and flight to Lamu with Lamu Homes. It would have been easier to do that myself, but I’d wasted a lot of Lamu Homes’ time asking about cheaper accommodation that you can’t contact via email, so I thought I should book with them. Yes, you’ll probably save same money using Kenyan and Tanzanian operators.

Isn’t owning “an upmarket tented camp” enough to be called “interesting? ;)
I like Nairobi and I feel quite safe walking in the city centre.

If he ownes it he is VERY interesting! I'm not quite sure yet... awaiting an email from South-Africa and doing some serious hoping =P~

Hi Siro, I'll be going to tanzania (15 days) and kenya (5 days) in june this year. for my kenya part I've received several quotations, and after my selection, two with good prices (and good reputation), were left. Finally, comparing prices, the most interesting for us turned out Southern Cross Safaris (if you do a search on them, you'll find good reviews of people who have experienced them). And I must say, untill now, I've been very pleased with the way things have been communicated. Benjamin for Southern Cross has really helped me look for what I wanted, continuously proposing me alternatives for the next reason why not that lodge or that lodge. Finally, he managed to get me my dream lodge, Shompole for 2 nights and another lodge Olonana for 2 nights as well, at a very reasonable price, way more competitive than I've seen of other operators (I'm talking about several hundreds of dollars). Another lodge I really liked, mainly because of the personal communication with the owner, is the Serian lodge. However, as we've already said we'd book with Benjamin, we can't turn back, though next time we come we really want to visit the Serian lodge. I think the owner, alex walker, really goes out of his way to please his customers, judging from the way he was responsive to my emails.... if you're looking for ultra personalised service, look no further :-)

janischa,
Thank you, I will look into it. Sounds like a nice deal

My parents friend seems to have connections at Ol Seki Mara Camp. Been searching the Fodor but I can only find a link. Anyone stayed here or know anything about it?

Siro,
It seams like Ol Seki is quite new. You’ll have to go there and then write a report!

Finally, answer and itinerary suggestion has arrived from the travel agency. I would really appreciate any coment from you guys.

Here goes:

June 12: Arrive Kili Airport 7.30 pm. Transport to Impala Hotel.
June 13: Transport to Ngorongoro after breakfast. Full board. But it doesn't say if they include park fees and game drives.
June 14: Full day at the Crater
June 15: Return to Arusha. Bus to Nairobi. Transport to Wilson, fly to Mara. Stay at either Base Camp or Mara Serena Lodge. Full board.
June 16: All day in Mara
June 17: All day in Mara
June 18: Fly to Nairobi, Panafric Hotel (we are going to request Fairview I think). Rest of the day by ourselves.
June 19: Nairobi by orselves
June 20: Nairobi by ourselves
June 21: Transport to Wilson after breakfast, fly to Lamu. Stay at Petley's Inn (a bit unclear whether they mean Petley's or Palace, they say both). Half board.
June 22: Lamu by ourselves
June 23: Lamu by ourselves
June 24: Fly to Mombasa, pick up a car (Toyota Rav 4), drive without guide to Tsavo West. Stay at Kilaguni Lodge. Own activity the rest of the day.
June 25: Full day Tsavo
June 26: Full day Tsavo
June 27: Drive to Mombasa, stay at Shambani Cottages, selfcatering
June 28: Full day Mombasa, with rented car.
June 29: Full day Mombasa, with rented car.
June 30: Fly to Zanzibar. Transport to the east coast, Ndame
July 1: Full day Ndame
July 2: Full day Ndame
July 3: Transport to Stone Town, stay at Tembo House.
July 4: Full day Stone Town
July 5: Home.....

this will cost us 5200$ pp. This includes airfare from Oslo, planes in Kenya/Tanzania, busshuttle, transport to and from hotels, rented car 7 days, airport taxes excl. Zanzibar, "safaripakkage" 2 nights in Ngorongoro, "safaripakkage" 3 nights in Mara, "safaripakkage" 3 nights in Tsavo.
Does not include visas. I have asked what a "safari pakkage" includes (own car with guide, gamedrives, parkfees etc.) Are ther other things I should clearify with the outfitter?

Originally our itinerary was to do Kenya first, then the Crater and Zanzibar. Our outfitter has suggested otherwise. Any coments?

The "safaripackage" better include your game drives and park fees.

Go for the Fairview if you can get; it's a lovely hotel.

You probably wound up with Tanzania first, based on what accommodations were available in Tanzania. June is rather busy here and space at this point is very limited. Kenya, on the otherhand, doesn't get busy before end of the month and the prices increase (as July 1)... easier to get space in Kenya.

You're sure going to be covering a lot of ground. We'll be waiting for your trip report when you get home.

thanks Sandi

Are we covering too much ground?

A trip report is the least I can do after getting loads of inspiration from this forum.

You've got 3-weeks (which most of us would love)... so not too busy, just visiting lots of places. And certainly giving yourself enough time at each (rather than 1-nighters, that many pre-packaged itineraries have). So, go for it.

Siro,
On Lamu Homes new website it appears as if Petley’s is back in business and that it’s the Palace’s sister hotel. Request Petley’s if possible (just because I’m curious)
http://www.lamuhomes.com/hotelPalaceHotel.htm

I’m looking forward to your trip report.

I think the outfitter meant Petley's. And it is not unlikely that we will stay there after I found a 30 year old picture of my mom at Petley's. Will visit the place anyway and off course satisfy your curiousity ;)

Thanks for the link

siro:
That is very cool--finding the picture of your Mom at Petley's.

yes, it was. I've been scanning some (eh...some... an understatement, 1700) old negatives and plan to take a few of them with me on the trip, try to "restyle" the motives.

Then you have no choice; you have to stay at Petley´s.

hehe, that's what I'm thinking too. Too bad you'll have to wait so long to hear about it.

trying to share a picture for the first time, but total failure... Heeelp

One quick comment from me before I have to head to the airport, I don't quite understand how June 15 is supposed to work. I thought that the Arusha-Nairobi shuttles left at 8:00am and 2:00pm? If that's the case, I don't think you can make the 8:00am one unless you overnight in Arusha on the 14th. If you take the 2:00pm one, I don't think you can make it to Nairobi in time for the afternoon flight to the Mara.

Patty,

thanks, I'll check that out.

Seems like our operator has done several mistakes. First, Patty, thanks for the June 15. (shuttlebus) coment. You were absolutely right, we'll be flying from Arusha instead.

It is unclear which camp the operator is referring to in Mara. I thought she meant Base Camp Explorer but was wrong. We have to cut our costs somewhere and one option is to stay in a lodge instead of a tented camp. I don't like the idea at all.

Can you guys give me some general idea of the prices per night in tented camps in Mara? Doubt that we will go for the most expensive...

Siro,
To cut cost I’d cut out some destinations and spend a longer time in others and drive to the Mara. Also, there´re very nice cheaper hotels in Arusha, Nairobi, Lamu and Zanzibar, but you have to stay at Petley’s.
Tented camps aren’t necessarily more expensive than lodges. The prices you get depend on many different factors. I too would like to know which ones are the least expensive. I just got the new LP guide to Kenya and Basecamp looks like the best deal. Though I remember that someone was quoted a better price for Ilkeliani. All the camps are very expensive, but in the LP guide there are some very interesting lines about an up-and-coming midrange camp – the first in the Mara. I’ll have to investigate this.

Try Ilkeliani which is right next to Basecamp. Their 2 night flying package in June is $415pp plus park fees. Check with them on the cost of an additional night. If your tour operator is quoting higher prices, you can book your stay and flights directly through the camp. Good luck!

We are considering cutting Tsavo, still discussing whether to use that cut to put in an extra day in Mombasa (using Shambani as a base and drive around, Gedi, Malindi and so forth) and an extra day in Zanzibar. We have decided changing from Paje Ndame to Tamarind Beach Hotel. A bit more expencive, but no "kubb" and rumors of an employee ("the professor butler") with great Zanzibar knowledge.

We have discussed driving to Mara but I have a sister who get's really carsick.... Still considering though..

Nyamera: do you have specific suggestions with regards to cheaper hotels in Arusha and Stone Town? Are set for Fairview in Nairobi because this is the hotel we stayed at when we first arrived Kenya in 1971.... Lamu still set for Petley's, have to right a report you know ;) Been looking into Pool House though but know nothing about the rates.

Mara: are requeting the operator to give us spesific camps and the respective quotes. Will ask for quotes for Basecamp and Ilkiliani. Thanks

Nyamera: Give me a hint if you find out more about the up-and-coming?

With regards from a bit tired siro I-)

Siro,

I’ve never been to Tanzania, but I have some ideas about less expensive hotels, like Meru House Inn in Arusha: http://www.victoriatz.com/office.htm there’s a Norwegian connection BTW.
I’ve already suggested Clove House in Stone Town. There’s also Garden Lodge http://www.zanzibarexcursions.com/za...en%20Lodge.htm
Warere Town House http://www.wareretownhouse.com/
Florida Guest house and many others.

We're having trouble getting answers from our travel agent.... :( Sending our itinarary to several others now for quotes.

A question for you guys: Does anyone know the park fee for Tsavo West? Is there additional costs for bringing our own car? We've heard 40$ pp per day + 100$ for the car.

Nyamera: Petley's Inn is probably out. We heard rumors about noise in the neighborhood and it turns ot that the neighboring hotel (?) has a big outdoor screen with noisy actionmovies rolling day and night...

Siro,

The park fees for Tsavo West are $ 27 and from 1 July they’ll be $ 40. Here are the new fees: http://www.kws.org/images/new-tariffs-2006.pdf It looks like the fee for the car is 300 shillings if it has seats for 5 passengers or less and 800 shillings if it has seats for more than 5 passengers – a lot less than $ 100.

There are lots of noises in Lamu, but maybe actionmovie noise isn’t the kind you’d like to hear. Can you trust the rumours? I’d like you to go to Petley’s.

I hope a hippo hasn’t killed your travel agent. Anyway, there’s plenty of time.

KWS tariffs before July 1, 2006 - http://www.kws.org/tariffs.html

On or after July 1, 2006 - http://www.kws.org/new-tariffs-2006.html

The $40 per person entry fee is correct after July 1, but the vehicle fee is only a few hundred shillings per day.

Thanks guys, hmmm I'm wondering why the agent told us 100$ for the car...

Nyamera: Noises are ok but carchases from big speakers...... it's not looking good.

Ooops, my mom read $ but it was shilling... slight difference :))

Oh well, off to celebrate our national day, I'd rather read tripreports :$

Anybody know if it is possible to get from Ngorongoro to Mara in one day? Our plan is to drive from the crater after breakfast, fly from Kili to Nairobi to Mara. How many hours to Kili? How about the drive from Kenyatta to Wilson? Are there any alternatives to Mara in one day?

Thankful for any response
Siro

Why don't you take the afternoon Air Kenya flight from Kilimanjaro to Wilson? Then you don't need to change airports in Nairobi. I believe this flight leaves at 2:00pm which should give you enough time to drive from Ngorongoro and is timed to connect with their afternoon departure to the Mara.