Divided opinion on Kruger
 

I’ve seen a few people on the forum discussing the merits (or not) of Kruger National Park versus the private reserves – this article in the current edition of Travel Africa magazine is an interesting read:
http://www.travelafricamag.com/content/view/1502/144/
The whole article is not available online but the author goes on to say that Kruger undeniably offers a wildlife bonanza and it would be a shame to miss it ’for fear of a little over-intrusive tourism’.
Another of the author’s points I totally agree with is that although you may not see as much as you would with a professional guide with all the back-up they have available, there is something very special about finding wildlife for yourself. Getting charged by ‘our’ very own grumpy elephant on a back road of the Kruger park was one of our highlights – honestly! (and no, we didn’t harass him, we were a good distance away when he suddenly turned round and charged – none of those warning signals we’d read so much about beforehand!). Find ‘our’ leopard on a gravel road in Namibia surpassed the experience of being driven to one sitting in a tree by a guide.
The magazine also reviews the camps around the national park (Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Manyeleti , Timbavati , Klaserie & Thornybush) and could be useful for anyone trying to make a decision on where to visit. Incidentally the author of these reviews is a grading assessor (Carrie Hampton) with an interesting website with more reviews: www.safaritart.com

I'm sure they are both different. Although, the SSGR does offer some spectacular sightings(notably the Big5), it is not short of traffic. It's just that the sightings are limited to 3 vehicles. A lot of the time, you have to move on after a limited time (25 mins, maybe?) and this to me is personally frustrating. I'm sure there are many others who find this okay and that's perfectly fine for everyone to have different views.

Sorry Hari - but what's SSGR?

There are pros and cons for both self-drive DIY safaris in parks such as Kruger and private guided safaris in private reserves.

We have done both and enjoyed both immensely.

Whilst our overall viewing wasn't as rich and diverse on our DIY safari (and nor did we get as close to some sightings as we would have liked) there was definitely a huge thrill in tracking down each sighting ourselves not to mention identifying what we saw between similar species.

We also loved being on our own, setting our own timetable and enjoying the experiences as they came.

I'll probably get flamed now, just like on "that other forum that calls this forum a fruitcake forum" (yawn) but what the heck...

My little (!) problem with Kruger is not the "masses" as such, but the fact that in order to please these masses, man has to interfere with nature too often.

"Natural balance" may be a fata morgana, like the author of that article seems to want to communicate. But that does not mean that one should start constantly relocating, culling and all that stuff, just to maintain an artificial balance based on...
- species censuses conducted in the past (when numbers of some species may have been far from corect)
- demands from tourism
- the "idea" that local climate is a never changing "given".

IMHO there's still far too much bullets flying around in Kruger. Altough things have improved. But old habits die hard. You just have to read Bruce Bryden's book to understand what I mean.

Now, please note that I do not see this as a black & white thing. Iow I know Kruger is far from a bad park, and neither do I think a park without any human interference is realistic. I know it's all a grey area. Just IMHO too dark grey for Kruger, while I prefer a bit lighter grey. Hopefully here we can discuss such things in a decent manner without getting personal?

Ciao,

J.

some of the private reserves surrounding the Kruger park - that's collectively the Sabi Sands.

@pixelpower
i couldn't agree more to your statement regarding kruger park wildlife management.

it's also makes me wonder that CITES just allowed SA to sell tons of ivory to china shortly after kruger decided on elephant culling.

div

my pro's in view to kruger:
relatively affordable accommodation

cons:
- mass tourism (there are a lot of videos on you tube which show that phenomena) and it's interferrence with wildlife
- big camps/lodges
- carbon footprint depending on group six per vehicle
- DYS: missing a lot of "inside" information on wildlife behaviour, species etc.
the latter is the most important to me.

div

'DYS: missing a lot of "inside" information on wildlife behaviour, species etc. the latter is the most important to me.' div

One thing the article was saying is that Kruger is not just about self-drive - the morning walks and Wilderness trails are a fantastic opportunity to get away from the 'crowds' - on the Wilderness Walking Trail we tracked a rhino and calf on foot then sat on a rock watching them, oblivious to our presence thanks to the guide. We then climbed up a koppie and watched wild dogs hunting while elephants fed around us - I don't think a private reserve could have delivered much more in terms of expertise and wildlife experience.

Twice we have begun our safaris with Kruger. After flying into JNB, rent/hire a vehicle, drive over and spend a few days there. We think its a great way to begin after the looooong flight into JNB. If soemthing gets messed up with your flights, you have only missed a bit of Kruger and not a $1,000 a night camp. You set your own pace and recover from jet-lag as you wish. Although we are always so excited that we go go go all day long. After a few days at Kruger you go on to MM or Singita or another South Africa camp. I would not want to do it in reverse, that is, other luxury camps first and then finish at Kruger.

As for being crowded, we have not found this, being there in Sep of 2006 and 2007. I have heard that school holidays brings crowds into Kruger. Many times we were the only vehicle on one of the many back gravel roads in the midst of an elephant heard or alone with buffalo, zebra, giraffe. I'm looking foreward to going back.

regards - tom

Firstly Kruger Park was never intended to be a destination for rich tourists who worry about what to wear for dinner.

It was and is for normal people without vast disposable riches, it is designed and succeeds as allowing “normal” people to experience viewing wild life, albeit mostly not of the intensive nature experienced in other places.



It is however a relatively safe area for animals and without it and the other parks in South Africa, there would be for instance no Rhinos for the rich tourists to gawp at in the Okovanga.

Comparisons with Sabi Sands area is strange as there is far more animal management there (baited leopards), and costs are around 10 times as much per day.

As to the question of fences, when do we ever hear about the fences in Botswana, which have wiped out the wildebeest migration .The Delta is fenced on two sides just like Kruger.

Divine 54 (pippa etc)
The comments about culling are reprehensible and totally unfounded. The lifting of the ban on sales was for 3 countries none of whom were South Africa.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/276691.stm


The expertise there is unquestionable in particular well said Rockdassie!

I liked that article that you posted, rockdassie. For me, it was thought-provoking in many ways.

I like the way the writer presents the two extremes of Kruger--the tranquility and thrill of a morning on a Wilderness Trail as well as the "start your engines" atmosphere of the opening of the rest camp gate.

I've made two visits to Kruger now and have experienced both of these extremes during each visit. Obviously, the mornings on the Wilderness Trail are more enjoyable. However, my sole wild dog sighting occurred just outside a very full Skukuza, and I didn't even leave the gate until 10 minutes after opening. Some of my other rare animal sightings (e.g., leopard, serval) have also occurred during some raucous park-sponsored game drives.

To be honest, the crowds don't bother me much. To me, a million visitors a year is about on par with some of the US national parks that I have frequented. Anyone who has been to Yellowstone in August around any major animal sighting knows that it's arguably even MORE chaotic than a Kruger lion sighting. After all, people are allowed to get out of their cars in Yellowstone to take that all-important picture. It gets complicated dodging cars and self-absorbed pedestrians in those situations. Of course, I wouldn't want to deal with people like this throughout an entire vacation, which is why I schedule the Wilderness Trails.

To me, Kruger is very unique because it allows the individual to find animals on their own. Personally, I'm not looking for someone to find animals for me for an entire visit--I want to spend at least some time finding and learning about them on my own. This is just a personal preference of mine, and of course guides and private reserves have their place. In fact, I've learned a lot from watching the virtual game drives available over the internet that are broadcast by one of the private game reserves.

I've looked a little bit into what other locations have to offer, but I keep coming back to Kruger because it provides the activities that I want to do at a cheaper price. It also seems to be more innovative in the guided "products" that it offers. For example, I would like to try the mountain bike rides that they offer. And, I don't know of too many places that offer guided multi-day walking safaris where you have to carry all of your stuff with you (which, in my opinion, is the only way to experience TRUE wilderness while still keeping it that way).

As for the opinions expressed regarding wildlife/ecology management, I'm busy learning more about the issues. However, sniktawk brings up an important point--the other reserves in southern Africa have benefited from the intensive management of Kruger. It seems like Kruger has been a living laboratory of sorts, with lots of management experiments that have succeeded and failed.

Allow me if I may to tell the difference between Kruger and the Sabi Sands.
I have spent many many years in both places and they are both breathtaking to say the least.
Here are the differences:
Kruger: This is a vast area where you do your own thing and you really will feel what it is like to be out in the wilderness, however, you are restricted to the roads and game viwing is poor as if you come into a sighting you have to negotiate your car with the other 20 or so cars and this can be a serious annoyance as the sighting is usually about 200 or 300 metres in the bush and all you get to see in the daylight hours is a flicker of the lions ear.
Sabi Sands:
My favourite:
The upside here is that you really go into the bush with open vehicles and really get to see them and this to me is the answer if you are into game viewing. The downside is you have to be on a schedule with other guests and the ranger but if you do it right and get a private landrover you will have the best.

Everything is relative. Compared to the National Parks here in the U.S., in which I have experienced bumper-to-bumper traffic jams in certain areas during high season(Yellowstone, Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Smoky Mountains, Acadia), Kruger seems absolutely deserted. We have been there twice (once during the week between Christmas and New Years) and had been warned about the "crowds" -- of which we experienced none. Yes you will see other cars, especially in the southern part of the park, but still very few by our standards. We found that in most areas we could drive for miles without seeing another car. Accommodations are reasonably priced and comfortable. There is no thrill like the one we experienced near Olifants where we came across a lone lioness walking down a dirt road directly toward us, with no other vehicles in sight. At almost all of our sightings we were the only vehicle (the lone exception was one of a leopard in a tree near Lower Sabie), where there were several other vehicles. I still think Kruger is one of the best values in travel. Sabi Sands is wonderful too but totally different.

I am so glad to see some Kruger commentary on this board!

We are planning 9 days there in September '09 (including 3 days on a wilderness trail) because we CANNOT AFFORD the private reserves. Or, rather, WILL not spend that kind of money. Airfare from California will cost enough.

The S. Africa parks website, Sanparks, has a great forum.

both are lovely experiences.

Last year we splitted our 8 nights, 4 and 4 between Kruger Park and Sabi Sands private game reserve.

Private game reserves: this is absolutely great: you have the guide, the tracker and can go off road to spot wildlife and predators so close that you cannot even imagine the first time ! You just have to sit, listen to, asking questions and take shots or videos. You can share your comments and emotions with other guest in the vehicle. You often find luxury accomodation, if this is one of your priority.

Kruger NP: cheaper accomodations, the freedom to drive yourself, the fun to put down your own daily itinerary from the camp, the joy to spot your first leopard at 7am when you and your son are the only one in that area so that you do not have to share that magic moment with no one else, the chance to stay even 2 hours, or less, or more at the hippo pool to wait until you get the best picture of the open mouth !! We were lucky, we saw all the BIG 5 in the same morning at Kruger with no guide !

If I go back to South Africa some day I will absolutely do again the same ! Some nights in the private reserve and other by myself in Kruger !

Fabio,

Glad to read your comments on Kruger and Sabi Sands area! After much reading and planning, we will be self driving in Kruger staying at Satara and Lower Sabie. We have also booked time at Kirkmanns for March followed by a week in Cape Town then a week split between Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater and the Sengetti. If the situtation allows we will start our first visit to Africa with a visit to Victoria Falls and a stay at Matetzi. Hopefully this will give us a great variety of experiences

gibgib--You're going to enjoy your trip.

Which Wilderness Trail are you planning to do?

I think we will do the Sweni trail. We will start our trip with 3 days at Lower Sabie, the trail, then 3 days at Olifants. This seems to give us a nice loop, without TOO much driving. Afterwards, we will probably spend 1 night at the Blyde Canyon area before heading back to Johannesburg.

(Is it rude to type Joburg?)

We only have a bit over 2 weeks to spend on this trip, travelling back and forth from California will eat up a lot of time!

I'm anxious for some calendar days to pass so we can make our rezzies a year in advance!

Do make your Olifants reservations as soon as you can, especially if the time is over a weekend.

I wasn't paying close enough attention to the calender. When I went to book, the dates had been open for reservations for several days. The cottages we wanted were already booked for the March weekend days we needed at Olifants so we booked at Lower Sabie.

The wildness trails sound really neeat-have fun.

gigib and others planning a Kruger visit. I've heard that SA school holidays make Kruger busy. Anyone know if true? But, so, if you can book around them it is better. Here is SA school calendar for 2008/2009 showing all school holidays. The light pink days are school holidays. Put your mouse cursor on a day and it will describe it.
http://tinyurl.com/ywhbw8

regards - tom

Thanks Tom,

We will be there on a Sunday and the last full week in March. It was the weekend days that were giving us problems, but only at Olifants. It must be a favorite restcamp.

Last Sep 2007 we stayed four nights at Letaba Rest Camp, not too far from Olifants, north maybe 20 miles. We drove down towards Olifants several times, good area. (The bridge over the Olifants River is spectacular). I'd go back. Better area than Mopani I think. Many people prefer the southern camps, Skukuza and south but I haven't stayed in that area.

regards - tom

Sniktawk wrote: "Kruger Park was never intended to be a destination for rich tourists who worry about what to wear for dinner."

No use expressing in extremes. Kruger may be somewhat at one edge of the spectrum, while Sabi Sands may kinda be at the other. It's still not black & white. It's still shades of gray. See my remark in my first post in this thread. There's no need to "look down" on other people's choice of accomodation.

No matter what type of tourism is intended, to me the most important thing is the welfare of the animals. Having experienced Kruger myself (including a traffic jam of 20+ vehicles to see a leopard's tail), and having read extensively about it, I stay by my views; far too much wildlife management is needed in Kruger.

We spent seven nights in Kruger in April 2008 and had superb time. Primary reason to choosing Kruger was cost but we were also swayed by the fact that in a PGR one has to share vehicles and limited time at sightings etc. I would go nuts if I had to leave a group of Ground Hornbills in say 10 minutes! Self driving in Kruger we had a tremendous feel of freedom and wilderness all on our own. Some sightings when on the main roads were crowded and many more sightings on quiet gravel roads were very private too.

We entered from Malelane gate in the South and worked our way up north over the 7 days, staying 3 camps, Berg en Dal, Satara and Oliphants, finally drove up to Letaba and exited via the Phalaborwa gate.

Berg en Dal is a large camp with nice family cottages, each with private courtyard and BBQ facilities etc. Kruger is very much a life style that encompasses the great outdoors feel with just the right bit of comforts thrown in between to make life very comfortable too. We really enjoyed doing our own BBQ’s at dinner. Marinated meats, salads, drinks, BBQ wood etc etc is all available in camp shops and the accommodations are well equipped for this. If you don’t want to do your own catering the restaurants and cafes serve decent food, steaks, burgers, pies, some nice sandwiches etc etc. Although we had pre planned to do one or two BBQ;s and use the restaurants on other days, we finally ended up doing our own BBQ’s everyday, it was such fun and the kids just loved it. Between Berg en Dal and Skukuza you get a picnic area called Afsal. These picnic areas are dotted all around the park and make for excellent daytime stops with a brunch, or lunch etc. they also have gas BBQ’s if you want to do your own cooking and some have cafes serving nice hot snacks. Afsal even had some great Castle beer on tap. We also met up with nice people at such places, made friends, exchanged ideas about my own country Sri Lanka, and all in all the South Africans were really friendly nice people. Some of the people we met were real serious birders and wild life enthusiasts so the information gleaned was really valuable. These interactive experiences made Kruger very special for us. Often we left the main camp at dawn and were out the whole day on safari, spending the mid day time in a picnic area.

Satara is a lovely rustic camp and was my favourite. The area is vast flat plains savannah and very famous for Lions. Lots of other game too, with some nice wild routes to drive on. Since we had booked very well in advance we had a choice rooms on the perimeter of the camp and it was awesome in the evening to do a BBQ under the stars by the fence with a Hyena for company.

Oliphants is a beautiful camp and amazing views from a high cliff over the Oliphants river and the Valley of the Oliphants – wilderness for miles and miles and miles on end… Here too we had river view rooms.

All camps rooms were very comfortable with a fan and a/c, clean linens, bathrooms, adequate towels, and since we had all self catering units the small but neat kitchenettes were clean and well equipped. I must also specially mention that all the public toilets we went to in Kruger, some of these in far flung wilderness picnic spots, were very clean and had water, paper etc

As for game viewing, Kruger is vast and there is lots of game. We saw lots of lion, black rhino, white rhino, some huge tuskers very close up, and many other nice things however we did not see a leopard , wild dog and cheetah. Leopards are not that uncommon in Kruger and sighted often especially around Berg en dal and Skukuza, however wild dog and cheetah are very endangered and rare. I must add that we did not really spend time searching for the leopard as we have seen many in my own country Sri Lanka. The bird life is very good and we did see plenty.

Do have a look at my trip photos at http://www.abidally.com/mp/South%20Africa%20Album/

Mohammed,

I really enjoyed looking at your photos early in the planning stage and reading your comments. Thanks for taking the time to post.

In fact your information is what helped us finalize our plans for Kruger. We are looking forward to our time in Kruger.

My husband likes the idea of the freedom the self drive affords. Plus we have a small RV and love spending time in the state and national parks here in the US.

Thank you for the link, Rockdassie!

As a many-time visitor to Kruger, I have always experienced that wonderful bush feeling, but only occasionally the "start your engines, the gang's all here" atmosphere. I've been twice to private reserves on the edge of a national park. To me, the Kruger experience is so superior that I probably won't ever consider a private reserve again. There is nothing to compare with being all alone in the morning watching a hyena mother nursing her three cubs; and then, in the evening, being on a drive with the ranger who can find an African wild cat and lions on the hunt during the same drive, meanwhile explaining the variations in the ecosystems that you encounter.

In Kruger you can have dinner alone, or you can enjoy discussing your day's sightings with others. You can stay at a sighting as long as you like. (Remember, if a private reserve guarantees no more than three vehicles at a sighting, that means those three vehicles have to leave after a certain amount of time so other guests get their guaranteed semi-privacy.)

I know Kruger is often criticized for over-managing, but at least you know the leopard you're looking at wasn't baited.

Gigib, no, it isn't rude to type Jo'burg. I put in an apostrophe, but I don't know if that's the preferred way or not.

You'll have a wonderful time in Kruger, I know!

Celia

Our favorite accommodations have been Mopani and Punda Maria, but sightings in both of those areas were pretty scarce. We have also stayed at Olifants (spectacular views over the river), Lower Sabie (ditto, and great viewing deck), Shingwedzi, and Satara and have also visited Skukuza once and Letaba twice but have not stayed there, just visited for meals. We found the best areas for game viewing were in the southern part of the park around Lower Sabie, and also around Olifants. The farther north you go the scarcer the game, but some of the most delightful accommodations are in the north.

You can see some of our Kruger photos including some of the camps at:
web.mac.com/lisaandmarktravel
and
web.mac.com/lisaandmarktravel/iWeb/Site/South%20Africa%20Lisa%27s%20Album.html

Enjoy your trip -- Kruger is magic -- and the sanparks.org forums are full of advice. (We have reservations at one of the other SANparks, Kgalagadi, this December.)

cwn

what a coincidence !!

We also stayed at Lower Sabie and Satara, which is my favourite due to the location in the lions area !
What another coincidence that we will be leaving in 3 weeks to Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro and Serengeti for a 9 days trip combined with a 3 days in Masai Mara !! I can't wait to be on aug 19th !!
Would be nice to read your report once you will be back after march !

have a wonderful trip !!

fabio

[sniktawk=quote]Comparisons with Sabi Sands area is strange as there is far more animal management there (baited leopards), and costs are around 10 times as much per day.[/quote]

Baited leopards? Which lodges is Sabis Sands do this then?

And what other wildlife maanegment goes on there?

Mohammed, your photos are marvelous, I cannot WAIT to get there.

I see you stayed at the Blyde River Lodge, it looks very nice. How is it located for a one night stay, is it a close drive to the usual sights?

I am really enjoying this thread...

@ snit
i would also like to know which concession does the baiting.

i know lots of people who spend their vacation there, we also travel on a regulat basis to SS and furthermore i know some of the owners and i heavily doubt that at any SS concession there is baiting going on!

therefore some more detailed information rather then just "mentioning" would be highly appreciated!



ref to tourism in krueger but tourism in general:

i hate if animals must be shot because of tourism interfering with wildlife.
humans have to acknowledge that they are just visitors in THEIR habitat!
so doing walking safaris means ALWAYS putting wildlife in danger as a guide must shot any animal which gets confused or feels threathened by these human visitors.

last may in krueger some selfdrive tourists cornered a leopard which was so terrified by these intruders that it jumped into an electric fence and was grilled.

when one drives through krueger there is not one day that one cannot observe stupid human behaviour. and it's always the animals which pay the price!

regarding snit's remerk that krueger is for people who don't need to worry about clothing for dinner is simply discriminating!
you CAN find such people at either place SS a n d krueger!
it's like always in live: you find idiot all over the place - high-end lodges but also low key DIY!

div

"i hate if animals must be shot because of tourism interfering with wildlife. humans have to acknowledge that they are just visitors in THEIR habitat! so doing walking safaris means ALWAYS putting wildlife in danger as a guide must shot any animal which gets confused or feels threathened by these human visitors." div

I think there are very few cases of rangers shooting animals on walks - we asked all our Kruger guides if they had ever shot an animal and they never had, but that’s not to say it hasn’t happened. The human/wildlife conflict problem exists all over the world – wildlife is always at risk when it comes into contact with humans, but I imagine that overall the wildlife is safer inside the Kruger than outside.

As always there is a vast disagreement on this forum, luckily in this case the majority of people come down in favour of Kruger and accept it for what it is. It is after all a vast area of bush that was of little use for farming and was thus utilised as a game reserve. The biggest problem is a lack of permanent water other than that artificially created by dams.

I am however puzzled by the comments on overmanagement, given the fact that many of the waterholes are overgrown , empty (blue-green algae problems), what is it that the management do that is not natural and how does this change the animals.

As for Divine 54 comments I can only say that she has demonstrated her knowledge of these matters by stating that SA is planning to cull elephants so that they can sell the ivory.

So which lodges in Sabi Sands bait leopards?

For those of you whom are genuinely interested in debating the issue and desire the facts, have a look at the management document that governs SANP's activities, you can download it from the this link:

http://www.sanparks.org/conservation/park_man/

And for those who wish to be better acquainted with the plan for the Kruger:

http://celtis.sanparks.org/parks/kru...gementplan.php

I believe that after digesting these documents the critcs will be well satisfied that what goes on behind the fences of SA's parks is more than a miracle and I am sure many will be quite aghast at the activities that are required to maintain SA's wild heritage.

That IS what sets South Africa's National parks apart from it's private neighbours, whom I will add use the resources found at Skukuza to assist them in their conservation efforts.

Someone took a stab and eluded to leopard baiting in the Sabi Sands... firstly I think that statement is inflammatory and is based on an ancient habit popularised at Mala Mala where predators were attracted to a carcass tied to a tree for the benefit of their guests. That has long since stopped and is not tolerated in the Sabi sand at all.

You will however find in the Samburu of Kenya that this is regarded as acceptable....

Mkhonzo

Thanks for clearing that up, if it has stopped I am pleased to hear it.

It is many years since I first heard of this practice.

Thanks also for showing everyone where to find details of the amazing work undertaken by SANPARKS

Mkhonzo, I too thank you for clearing up the baiting question.

So it seems opinion is not so divided after all, as Sniktawk said, the majority have come down in favour of Kruger and accept it for what it is.

The Sanparks Mission statement:

Mission
To develop and manage a system of national parks that represents the biodiversity, landscapes, and associated heritage assets of South Africa for the sustainable use and benefit of all.

It seems that The Kruger is meeting that mission beautifully.

It is clear that all around the world we need more wildlife habitat conserved. Kruger and Sabi Sand have very different models but both contribute toward the need to protect habitat. It is critical that people have a place to experience wildlife and be moved to conserve it. National Parks best fill that role of protecting large land masses that can absorb a higher tourism density and thus typically provide affordable access allowing a wide range of people to visit. One thing that often goes overlooked about parks like Kruger and Yellowstone is while they may seem crowded on the roads there are vast back country areas that support wildlife where people rarely if ever access.

High dollar/low tourism private concession areas are able to limit people but by charging a lot they can still support protection of sizeable lands making them another valuable conservation mechanism.

We need both protection schemes to succeed and continue to strive for additional protected lands by any of the various means that conserve wildlife. One may fit your tourist desires better than another but both are valuable and needed.